48
WINTER 2012 FREE at select outlets and online or by subscription Volume 22, Issue 4 www.coastandkayak.com Author Lyn Hancock revisits old turf and days of camping with cougars Island affairs PM 41687515 Will history repeat as an old tried-and-true paddle regains popularity? Going Greenland Magazine The magazine of Pacific coast adventures and recreation

Winter 2012 Coast and Kayak Magazine

Embed Size (px)

DESCRIPTION

Explore Princess Louisa Inlet, frolic with cougars on D'Arcy Island, paddle the coast of Gwaii Haanas and try Greenland paddles in this issue.

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WINTER 2012FREE at select outlets and online or by subscription

Volume 22 Issue 4

wwwcoastandkayakcom

Author Lyn Hancock revisits old turf and days of camping with cougars

Island affairs

PM 4

1687

515

Will history repeat as an old tried-and-true paddle regains popularity

Going Greenland

COASTampKAYAKMagazineThe magazine of Pacific coast adventures and recreation

2 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Vancouver and the Lower Mainlands Hobie dealerPedal it Sail it Paddle it or Power it

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 3

Chasing a Princess 8

This issuersquos cover by Jaime Sharp

Rec boat wars 36

Island affairs then and now 14

Jaime Sharp captured this self-portrait with a timed picture off the bow of his kayak at Skookumchuck Narrows one of British Columbiarsquos premiere whitewater kayaking destinations thanks to a current that can top 16 knots (30 kmh) Another of his photos is featured with the Greenland paddle article lsquoDifferent strokesrsquo on page 42 of this issue Jaime was part of the Norway expedition featured in Lyn Hancockrsquos article on the Lofoten Islands in the Summer 2012 issue of CoastampKayak Magazine He is a travel guide and has paddled extensively around the world including Panama Belize New Zealand Fiji Croatia and worked in the Canadarsquos Arctic as a dogsled guide and wolf naturalist He is a New Zealander now based out of British Columbia uworldwildadventureexpblogspotca

First Word 4News 6Wildlife 22Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands 13 South Gulf Islands 21

Barkley Sound 25 Haida Gwaii 26 North Gulf Islands 30 Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound 31Various destinations 18Instruction 41

Inside

In decades past Lyn Hancock had the rare experience to cuddle and cavort with cougars on the shores of DrsquoArcy Island her private retreat near Victoria BC Fifty years later she kayaked there to retrace her footsteps to one of the coastrsquos most fascinating islands ndash where cougars were family and lepers were outcasts

Chances are most kayakers wonrsquot rate a kayak under 16 feet as a contender for title of lsquobestrsquo And yet these smaller recreation boats compose the majority of the market for kayak sales That means a wide range of choices with more than ever for 2013 We look at whatrsquos new in this roundup of the rec boat category

There is no better inspiration for a trip than to be told it canrsquot be done CoastampKayak editor John Kimantas returns to Princess Louisa Inlet a second time to experience by paddle the location that has captivated cruisers for decades Itrsquos not a major kayaking destination though Should it be Read and decide

4 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Winter 2012 Volume 22 Number 4 PM No 41687515

A product ofWild Coast Publishing

PO Box 24 Stn ANanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

The worldrsquos only publishing company run aboard a boat (that we know of anyway)

Ph 1-866-984-6437 bull Fax 1-866-654-1937Email kayakcoastandkayakcomWebsite wwwcoastandkayakcom

Physical address Aboard the Rainy Day Somewhere on the Pacific Ocean

copy 2012 Copyright is retained on all material (text photos and graphics) in this magazine No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form print or electronic for any purpose

except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing

Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2010 courtesy of the Atlas of Canada Also our thanks to Geobase for some

elements that may appear on CoastampKayak maps

Advertising rates and submission guidelinesavailable at wwwcoastandkayakcom

subscribe$20 for 1 year ndash 4 issues

$35 for 2 years ndash 8 issuesOnline subscriptions Free

CoastampKayak Magazine is made available free but subscriptions ensure the magazine is

delivered to your home and that you will never miss an issue To subscribe visit

wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml or call 1-866-984-6437

ISSUE ADDEADLINE DISTRIBUTION 2013scheduletobedetermined

I decided late this summer thanks to a spate of good weather to do a run down Vancouver Islandrsquos southwest coast One problem with the West Coast though is even when there is good weather across the rest of the world here it can be shrouded in fog So I arrived at Pachena Bay near Bamfield in bright sunshine but looked out across the water to see a dismally dull and gloomy pall of fog

My partner Leanne dropped me off just an hour before sunset so there wasnrsquot much time to consider my fate A beach in a cove on the outer south shore of Pachena Bay looked promising and seemed to position me well for the run along the West Coast Trail portion of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve The hope was to complete that stretch the next day (no doubt to the chagrin of hikers who usually take five to six days to walk the trail)

On arriving though I found the bay not nearly as indented as I had hoped nor was there the usual break from white water on either end of the beach I landed through about a foot of surf onto a rocky and forlorn beach No matter I set up camp amid ever-increasing gloom and was soon asleep rising before dawn to load in the dark

Itrsquos an odd quirk of the coast that even over a calm night the surf can rise come morning And so where surf had been a foot at sunset at dawn the water broke through the morning gloom as two-foot breakers

Irsquove learned to be weary of two-footers There simply isnrsquot enough time to sit and fix your sprayskirt before being swamped by the next oncoming wave Smaller waves wonrsquot swamp you larger ones are spread out enough to give you time to set Not two-footers At least thatrsquos my experience So there are three choices ndash sit in the sand and wait to hopefully be sucked in fix yourself up in the shallows and hope you donrsquot drift sideways or get soaked while preparing or simply wait until you think you have a soft spot between large waves and head out quickly before fixing your skirt

I chose the latter mostly to save time and sure enough after breaking nicely through one wave ahead rose the biggest wave of the morning ndash easily twice the size of the earlier breakers No chance to elegantly clear this one It broke directly into me and pounded me backwards in roiling white water to wash the kayak up on high sand with a cockpit full of water

The real mistake was neglecting to check my gear So a drybag used as a camera case leaked water frying my best camera and an MP3 player Plus my GoPro somehow got knocked from its little waterproof casing and was found floating in the cockpit Plus a two-litre freshwater bag got washed away

The financial tally was one hit but getting wet so early on a day offering no chance to dry out was the immediate downside And all at the expense of three minutes of proper attention to details And all for one ill-planned wave

- John Kimantaseditorcoastandkayakcom

How rushing can be a costly error

Coastampkayak Magazine is an independent magazine available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops outdoor stores paddling clubs marinas events etc) and globally on the web

Paid subscriptions are available for those who prefer home delivery

Articles photos events news are all welcome

General queries kayakcoastandkayakcomEditorial editorcoastandkayakcomAdvertising kayakcoastandkayakcom

Online wwwcoastandkayakcomBack issues Turn the carousel on our home page click on the issue you want to read

CoastampKayak Magazine is dedicated to making self-propelled coastal exploration fun and accessible Safety and travel

information is provided to augment pre-existing safety and knowledge A safety course and proper equipment are advised

before any exploration on water See a list of paddling instruction locations at wwwcoastandkayakcom

Leanne hard at work in the new floating office of CoastampKayak Magazine This issue was produced aboard

Contact Us

Find Us

The First Word

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 5

6 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

News

CaMPFiRe CaRe u Child injuredNo doubt the kayakers thought they were

doing the right thing by covering up their campfire with pebbles and rocks when they left their campsite in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park on July 26

Far from it By covering up the fire without first extinguishing the embers they put into place circumstances that caused a disaster for a family later that day

In the evening a nine-year-old was enjoying the beach when he stepped onto the covered campfire The resulting burns were enough to force the family to abandon their holiday with the injury leaving the child unable to walk for five days

ldquoTwo weeks later his feet are still blistering We were camping with a group of six adults and five kids including a three year old and the fire was not visible to any of usrdquo said mother Katrina Jensen

Itrsquos a reminder to ensure campfires are completely extinguished before leaving them Embers can also continue to burn for days then reignite under the right conditions to start serious fires

ldquoOur son was fortunate that he was able to have immediate first aid to be camping with doctors and that we were able to arrange a ride out relatively quickly Other kids and adults may not have been so luckyrdquo Katrina said

The good news is the youngster made a full recovery is now running on his schoolrsquos cross-country team and used his savings to buy his own kayak

inDUstRy CHanges u Riot rebornExpect to see some jockeying in the

paddlesports industry as some old brand names resurface in new circumstances

Kayak Distribution Company owned by Marc Pelland of Montreal will see the brands Boreal Designs Riot Kayaks and Beluga Outdoor Gear amalgamated under the one banner

In addition Kayak Distribution has joined with Tahe Marine of Estonia to distribute the Tahe line of kayaks including the Zegul and Trapper canoe and kayak brands

Kayak Distribution was first formed in 2007 when Pelland became a partner in Riot Kayaks with Riot founder Jeff Rivest Riot moved the companyrsquos production from Quebec to China then in 2009 Riot parent company Voodoo Technologies declared bankruptcy though Riot continued to operate Rivest eventually left Riot to join the sales team at Point65 Kayaks and Pelland emerged as sole owner

Pelland is a chartered financial analyst and president of Woodchuck Inc a Quebec skateboard manufacturer He also owns and operates a private equity fund

Earlier this year Kayak Distribution bought the BorealDesign brand of kayaks Boreal is a Quebec-based kayak manufacturing company that went bankrupt in February 2012 Passings u Derek Hutchinson

Author renowned kayaking instructor and to many a father of modern sea kayaking Derek Hutchinson passed away

peacefully Oct 10 He was 79Derek was a Senior British Canoe Union

coach (BCUrsquos highest accreditation) a designer of numerous kayaks paddles and kayaking equipment and probably best known for writing ground-breaking sea kayaking instruction books including The Complete Book of Sea Kayaking first published in 1976 with the fifth edition released in 2004

His most famous kayaking trip was crossing the North Sea in a single kayak in 1976 ndash a difficult 160-km crossing that pushed the limits at the time by requiring paddling without sleep for the durationMaRine tRaiLs u nova scotia

The north shore of Nova Scotia is the latest region to join the official inventory of public launch sites for Nova Scotia paddlers

This new section of water trail covers from Tidnish near the New Brunswick border east along the Northumberland Strait to Auldrsquos Cove at the Cape Breton causeway The information will be added to five other sections of coast already online at the Coastal Water Trails website

Each launch site includes directions

Derek Hutchinson performs his rolling lsquohat trickrsquo Photo by Wayne Horodowich

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 7

News

bull C l o t h i n g bull F o o t w e a r bull o u t d o o r g e a r bull K ay a K s bull C a n o e s bull i n s t r u C t i o n bull r e n t a l s bull g u i d e d t o u r s bull o n l i n e s a l e s bull

1824 s t ore s treet V i C t or ia BC V8t 4r4

250bull381bull4 233 wwwoceanrivercom

ldquoGe t t i ng You Ou t The re S i n c e 1981rdquo

i t rsquo s o f f i c i a l w e rsquo v e b e e n v o t e d

the bestk a y a k s t o r e i n c a n a d a amp k aya k s c h o o l i n w e s t e r n c a n a d a

i am extremely

proud to reCeiVe

this honour

Brian henryowner

by land and sea a description of the launch on-site amenities nearby services a GPS reading and photos Possible day tours departing from the launch site are suggested All the sites are located on an on-line map A short introduction to paddling on the north shore will provide some background for people less familiar with this coast u wwwtrailsgovnsca

nationaL PaRks u Land addedThe Gulf Islands National Park Reserve

is now 100 hectares larger and less of a patchwork thanks to new parcels added in a $63 million land purchase in mid October

The new properties are two extensions to the Roesland property on west North Pender Island Maple Bay on southeast Prevost Island (a small bay immediately south of Richardson Bay and the old lighthouse) and a parcel atop Brown Ridge on Saturna Island that brings closer the gap between the central properties on Saturna Island and the Narvaez Bay campsite

The new properties will eventually lead to new trails day use areas and campsites

aCCess RestoReD u kitimatAlcan has re-opened public entry to the

Kitimat waterfront after the corporation cut off the communityrsquos access to the ocean

The Hospital Beach waterfront park and boat ramp were closed by the company due to safety concerns posed by passing trucks After backlash over the summer Alcan relented and has rerouted heavy rock-hauling trucks by building a new bridge

over Anderson Creek new traffic lights at Construction Village and an extra road from the former Eurocan Haul Road

The closure had made kayak trips out of Kitimat difficult despite it being one of just three oceanfront communities along British Columbiarsquos north and central coast The other communities are Bella Coola and Prince Rupert Kitimat is a key gateway to spirit bear habitat near Princess Royal Island

Kayakers land at Arisaig Beach near Cape George Nova Scotia part of the new marine trail

Shee

na M

asso

n ph

oto

News

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

ThE PLan was to make use of the afternoon inflow wind to head up the long central leg of Jervis Inlet

I left the campsite at Fairview Bay in the lower portion of Jervis Inlet near dawn and paddled in calm water through Prince of Wales Reach to finally get a bit of a tailwind once past Vancouver Bay

It didnrsquot last as I rounded Moorsam Bluff I could see the small whitecaps disappear eastward into the distance of the valley behind McCallrsquos Landing ahead of me to the north along Princess Royal Reach lay only flat water I find wind usually likes to follow the waterways here for some reason it was determined to head inland leaving the water ahead in calm

Looking up at the rock face of Moorsam Bluff I was reminded of the several dozen petroglyphs documented along Jervis Inlet so I decided to make the most of the calm and tuck in close to

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

shore for a look I saw either hundreds of petroglyphs or none as all the rock faces were etched and coloured in intricate designs Whether natural or manmade it made no difference as the artistic appeal was there either way I glided toward two prospective beaches only to watch them come into focus as boulder endcaps to old log dumps so therersquod be no stopping along this stretch

at Glacial Creek near a fish farm a gust of wind returned and in an impressively short period of time I was being hit by a hard tailwind kicking up sizeable wind waves I had hoped to get a push but not this kind It may have been rebound waves from the steep shoreline but whatever the cause the result was choppy unpredictable waves hitting me from behind It meant constant course correction and bracing plus getting wet as the whitecaps rolled over my sprayskirt I decided to head towards the northwest shoreline in the hopes of better conditions on the other side of the inlet

I did a shoulder check for traffic before turning and saw just one sailboat in the distance closer to McCallrsquos Landing as I slowly headed to the west shore the conditions became more stable allowing me to pull out a kayak sail By this point the sailboat and I were neck and neck and the sailors watched me suspiciously as I kept their pace after a few minutes the wind died and Jervis Inlet became dead calm marooning the sailboat I paddled over and offered a tow which

they gratefully declinedldquoany idea when slack is at Malibu

Rapidsrdquo the captain askedldquono I never checked Irsquom just winging

itrdquo I replied surprised that he was doing the same My reasoning is the time of slack was irrelevant ndash Irsquod only get there when I got there so there was no sense in planning That and I forgot to check

ldquoItrsquos usually 15 minutes after the Saltery Bay high tiderdquo the captain said ldquoso I figure itrsquos 545rdquo

a major turn in Jervis Inlet is at Saumarez Bluff (left) Vancouver Bay and

Marlborough Peak are in the background

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

u

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

I thanked the captain for the information then paddled away to leave them to their drifting Then I did the math It was 3 pm and I was 18 kilometres away So I either had to hurry to make slack or get there late and do a lengthy portage

The timing it turned out suddenly mattered a great deal

I decided to race to make the slack The water was dead calm now not so much as a ripple so there was no excuse for anything but a perfect paddle stroke I set in at a pace just a hair over 6 kilometres an hour determined to keep it up for three more hours fueled entirely by occasional handfuls

Princess Louisa

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

of peanuts raisins and SmartiesAfter some patience trying

unsuccessfully to find a breeze the sailboat gave up and motored into Queens Reach first well behind me then passing wide to avoid kelp to finally cross into Malibu Rapids ahead in the distance at exactly 545 pm Meanwhile I still had the best part of two kilometres to go One more handful of trail mix and I doubled my efforts

Ahead Club Malibu came into focus the Christian youth camp set on the banks of the rapids Capped by Mount Helena it appeared like some latter-day Utopia with a touch of Tolkienrsquos Rivendell thrown in for good measure It grew gradually in stature until I came alongside and entered the rapids just as the first ripples of adverse current were snaking their way out of the passage I pushed through with no trouble but only by a hair The time was 557 pm 12 minutes after the turn

The passage meandered forward and

I came out into Princess Louisa Inlet ndash a narrow twisting passage hemmed in on all sides by massive mountains graced with punishing cliffsides and a myriad of cascading waterfalls

This was the paradise I had paddled 60 kilometres today to see

PRINCeSS LOUISA INLeT has been a perennial cruising destination

its appeal made famous in part by the book The Curve of Time the endearing memoirs of a mother who cruised the British Columbia coast in a small boat with her two young children back in the late 1920s and early 1930s Part travelogue and part adventure it captures the era of Desolation Sound and the coast of British Columbia in the days when there were only travellers no tourists Author Wylie Blanchetrsquos touching insights and descriptions help keep the book a regular bestseller here in BC and many a traveller

has reached this location based on Wyliersquos inspirational writing revisiting many of her favourite locations while re-reading the book

Though now well known among the cruising world the inlet remains offbeat as a kayaking destination Back in 2005 as part of a publishing industry breakfast in Vancouver I was talking with a fellow author who had put together a book of anecdotes compiled from newspaper columns about kayaking trips I saw a section about Princess Louisa Inlet and asked him how he found paddling it

ldquoNo I took a boat up then kayaked You couldnrsquot kayak there Itrsquos impossiblerdquo he said

And so the gauntlet was laidI first completed the trip back in 2006

but in very different circumstances The world was grey wet and overcast for that trip and so I enjoyed the waterfalls but not the full splendour of the inlet thanks to

Background Princess Louisa Inlet and the view toward Chatterbox Falls shown more closely above Top left on the end of a portage

through Club Malibu at Malibu Rapids on the return journey a homeward-bound campsite on Princess Royal Reach and one of the

numerous waterfalls to be seen in Princess Louisa Inlet

Princess Louisa

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the cloud cover It was also much earlier in the year so instead of inflow and outflow winds to worry about I had a constant outflow current to battle The trip up took two full days the trip back just one

On this trip my window was sunny and warm so I had a strong suspicion inflows would be powerful And they were ndash for about an hour But the spring runoff was long gone so the travel was smooth enough and the blessing was a rare unimpeded view of the surrounding mountains once I arrived

I often coach contributors to CoastampKayak Magazine to express the beauty of a region through description rather than adjectives Princess Louisa however remains outside the realm of fitting description except for perhaps this Irsquove travelled almost all the BC coast now and if I was to become jaded by mountainous landscapes that time would have arrived and long since passed Yet when I turned the final corner to face Chatterbox Falls and its surrounding splendour even for the second time I found myself stunned to immobility Paddling had to wait there was nothing to be done but soak in the landscape and appreciate the steep chiselled rock faces crashing kilometres from summit to sea the uncountable ribbons of waterfalls and central to it all massive Chatterbox Falls pounding directly into the head of the inlet

Yes Princess Louisa Inlet can be kayaked It wonrsquot be easy but few things worthwhile are

nThis trip to Princess Louisa Inlet took

place over eight days with a launch from the CoastampKayak Magazine office (the MV Rainy Day) and back to Parksville a 450-km route involving circumnavigations of Lasqueti Texada and a dip into Sechelt Inlet through Skookumchuck Narrows (shown on the cover though on this journey it was passed nearer slack) The distance was made possible by close attention to winds and was the inspiration for the lsquoLearning to deal with windrsquo article on page 32

Princess Louisa inlet

Chatterbox Falls

Malibu Rapids

Patricia Pt

Princess Royal Reach

Prince of Wales Reach

VancouverBay

Hothamsound

McMurrayBay

FairviewBay

MoorsamBluff

saumarezBluff

McCallrsquosLanding

QueensReach

JeRVis inLet

goliathBay

HarmonyFall

Inside Princess Louisa Inlet on the final turn before the

view of Chatterbox Falls

Princess Louisa Inlet

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Lund BC | 604-483-7900 | 888-552-5558wwwterracentricadventurescom

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportInstruction amp Leadership Programs

Maps Charts amp BooksCentral waterfront location amp launch site

Discover the Power in your Nature

Howe sound

Jervisinlet

skookumchuck

Powell R

sechelt

Lund

Princess Louisa inletDesolation

sound

Discoveryislands

Vancouvernanaimo

Comox

Princess Louisa Inlet is best suited for expert paddlers though water taxis from Egmont Pender Harbour Sechelt Powell River or Lund can reduce the length and difficulty of getting there Two campsites are located in Princess Louisa Inlet Provincial Park ndash one at Chatterbox Falls at the head of the inlet and one 2 km farther down Another amenity is a dock for visiting boaters Tours are available either by relaxed luxury mini-cruiseships or faster Zodiacs Princess Louisa is reached through Jervis Inlet which is the gateway to Desolation Sound and separated from Sechelt Inlet by the famed Skookumchuck Narrows (cover photo) Thus Princess Louisa and Jervis Inlet lend themselves to expedition-length explorations of the wider region and several weeks would only scratch the surface

If you go

Rounding Patricia Point on the way to Princess Royal

Reach on the return journey

Princess Louisa Inlet

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

ldquoMy chief fantasy is that one day the absentee owners (of Little DrsquoArcy Island) will come along and tell me that since I am Little DrsquoArcyrsquos strongest supporter I can live there for the rest of my life for a dollar a year Or perhaps I shall do some service for my country so that Ottawa will offer me my dearest wish Then I will build a log house with lots of glass windows and a stone fireplace and roam the island with my cougar companions Dreamsrdquo

ndash Excerpts from Affair with a Cougar 1978

Tom who wouldnrsquot move unless I followed lay down and rested his head on mine Though small in relation to the rest of his body it was too heavy for my comfort so I shifted it gently Content he sprawled out on his side placed his forepaws on my neck and went to sleep purring With an island of onersquos own such moments could last forever Tom had given me his complete trust and confidence and it was a responsibility I did not take lightly

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

Town of Sidney via Sidney Spit on Sidney Island to the shoals and islets around Little DrsquoArcy The second day would be spent on DrsquoArcy Island with a hike of its cross-island trails then back to Vancouver Island at Island View Beach

No cougars and raccoons aboard this time (though I did want to take my house cat) I invited my paddling buddy Amir a newcomer to Vancouver Island waters and its wildlife

Our first stop was the mile-long sand bar of Sidney Spit Marine Park with its upright log pilings ndash handy signposts that look like totem poles from afar but are really logs driven into the sand to prevent erosion The sheltered sand and grass-edged lagoon with its kayak-friendly beaches were surprisingly deserted this holiday weekend Odd given the abundance of birds ndash murrelets auklets oyster catchers sandpipers great blue herons ndash the clear blue skies and the warm summer sun A change from my customary paddles on the outer coast

eagles swooped down from the steep dry clay cliffs of Sidney Island to pluck unlucky gulls out of a smooth silky sea One determined eagle dived repeatedly with outstretched talons to grab a gull who just as determinedly dipped and dived to

get away Finally the eagle gave up pursuit and returned to its perch on a tree I remembered the fortnightly flights on a float plane to study eagle nests on Sidney Island when most of it was owned by a single man Now there are several private residences on this island a fact we were told in no uncertain terms by one resident while having a quick lunch below the high tide line at the end of the island

The shoals and reefs rocks and islets that surround the DrsquoArcys are replete with wildlife Nesting gulls and cormorants thronged the whitewashed shorelines Sleek seals balanced themselves atop offshore rocks like acrobats Pairs of auklets and murrelets popped up and down in the water like corks A black oystercatcher poked and pried its long red beak around

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

I wrote that fantasy about Little DrsquoArcy Island in the 1978 book Love Affair with a Cougar but neither

scenario came to be instead Big DrsquoArcy Island became a provincial park in 1967 then part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003

In 1985 Phil Middleton bought Little DrsquoArcy Island and built his own dream house above concrete cells left over from the old leper colony Thatrsquos part of a dark chapter in British Columbiarsquos history when Chinese lepers were banished here to a life of solitude between 1890 and 1924

Nine years after moving there Phil read of my passion for Little DrsquoArcy Island and spent a year trying to track me down When he found me in the Northwest Territories he invited me to revisit Little DrsquoArcy and less than a week later I flew south to Sidney and met him We shared our passion for this magic Shangri-la and I was able to revisit bygone days spent here roaming freely with cougars (yes cougars) and releasing orphaned raccoons

One dream remained ndash to return here by kayak instead of the faster rubber dinghy I had used in the past That chance came in August 2012 The plan was a leisurely circle route arriving from the

Top left previous page Lyn Hancock has a nap with Tom back in the late 1960s when it was possible to snuggle with a cougar on DrsquoArcy Island Above Lyn the raccoon whisperer making friends with possible descendants of the raccoons she released in her days as co-owner of Island View Beach Conservation Centre Bottom left normally two cougars in your camp might be a cause for concern but for Lyn it was camping as usual

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

kayakutopia

Sales -Rentals - Instruction - Day Tours - Info Station

com

Comox Valley Kayakson Vancouver Island

1-888-545-5595

maybe itrsquos time for a new kayak

Check out our FLEET SALE

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Spring 2010 WaveLength Magazine 3

PROOFSTours British Columbia

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

T h e B a h a m a s

1 8 0 0 3 0 7 3 9 8 2

Kayak with us in a warm-water paradiseBook your winter getaway now

www k a y a k i n g t o u r s c om

Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

Just 45 minutes from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Kayak Galiano Islandbull Daily Guided Toursamp Rentals since 1985bull 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry Pick-Upbull Open All Year

Join us in Costa Rica Weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets

Expeditions

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear

163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide CoursesTwo Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

Lessons amp Rentals

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

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Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

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bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

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Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PADDLES

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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TOTAL $_________

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335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

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More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

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What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

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2 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Vancouver and the Lower Mainlands Hobie dealerPedal it Sail it Paddle it or Power it

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 3

Chasing a Princess 8

This issuersquos cover by Jaime Sharp

Rec boat wars 36

Island affairs then and now 14

Jaime Sharp captured this self-portrait with a timed picture off the bow of his kayak at Skookumchuck Narrows one of British Columbiarsquos premiere whitewater kayaking destinations thanks to a current that can top 16 knots (30 kmh) Another of his photos is featured with the Greenland paddle article lsquoDifferent strokesrsquo on page 42 of this issue Jaime was part of the Norway expedition featured in Lyn Hancockrsquos article on the Lofoten Islands in the Summer 2012 issue of CoastampKayak Magazine He is a travel guide and has paddled extensively around the world including Panama Belize New Zealand Fiji Croatia and worked in the Canadarsquos Arctic as a dogsled guide and wolf naturalist He is a New Zealander now based out of British Columbia uworldwildadventureexpblogspotca

First Word 4News 6Wildlife 22Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands 13 South Gulf Islands 21

Barkley Sound 25 Haida Gwaii 26 North Gulf Islands 30 Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound 31Various destinations 18Instruction 41

Inside

In decades past Lyn Hancock had the rare experience to cuddle and cavort with cougars on the shores of DrsquoArcy Island her private retreat near Victoria BC Fifty years later she kayaked there to retrace her footsteps to one of the coastrsquos most fascinating islands ndash where cougars were family and lepers were outcasts

Chances are most kayakers wonrsquot rate a kayak under 16 feet as a contender for title of lsquobestrsquo And yet these smaller recreation boats compose the majority of the market for kayak sales That means a wide range of choices with more than ever for 2013 We look at whatrsquos new in this roundup of the rec boat category

There is no better inspiration for a trip than to be told it canrsquot be done CoastampKayak editor John Kimantas returns to Princess Louisa Inlet a second time to experience by paddle the location that has captivated cruisers for decades Itrsquos not a major kayaking destination though Should it be Read and decide

4 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Winter 2012 Volume 22 Number 4 PM No 41687515

A product ofWild Coast Publishing

PO Box 24 Stn ANanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

The worldrsquos only publishing company run aboard a boat (that we know of anyway)

Ph 1-866-984-6437 bull Fax 1-866-654-1937Email kayakcoastandkayakcomWebsite wwwcoastandkayakcom

Physical address Aboard the Rainy Day Somewhere on the Pacific Ocean

copy 2012 Copyright is retained on all material (text photos and graphics) in this magazine No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form print or electronic for any purpose

except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing

Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2010 courtesy of the Atlas of Canada Also our thanks to Geobase for some

elements that may appear on CoastampKayak maps

Advertising rates and submission guidelinesavailable at wwwcoastandkayakcom

subscribe$20 for 1 year ndash 4 issues

$35 for 2 years ndash 8 issuesOnline subscriptions Free

CoastampKayak Magazine is made available free but subscriptions ensure the magazine is

delivered to your home and that you will never miss an issue To subscribe visit

wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml or call 1-866-984-6437

ISSUE ADDEADLINE DISTRIBUTION 2013scheduletobedetermined

I decided late this summer thanks to a spate of good weather to do a run down Vancouver Islandrsquos southwest coast One problem with the West Coast though is even when there is good weather across the rest of the world here it can be shrouded in fog So I arrived at Pachena Bay near Bamfield in bright sunshine but looked out across the water to see a dismally dull and gloomy pall of fog

My partner Leanne dropped me off just an hour before sunset so there wasnrsquot much time to consider my fate A beach in a cove on the outer south shore of Pachena Bay looked promising and seemed to position me well for the run along the West Coast Trail portion of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve The hope was to complete that stretch the next day (no doubt to the chagrin of hikers who usually take five to six days to walk the trail)

On arriving though I found the bay not nearly as indented as I had hoped nor was there the usual break from white water on either end of the beach I landed through about a foot of surf onto a rocky and forlorn beach No matter I set up camp amid ever-increasing gloom and was soon asleep rising before dawn to load in the dark

Itrsquos an odd quirk of the coast that even over a calm night the surf can rise come morning And so where surf had been a foot at sunset at dawn the water broke through the morning gloom as two-foot breakers

Irsquove learned to be weary of two-footers There simply isnrsquot enough time to sit and fix your sprayskirt before being swamped by the next oncoming wave Smaller waves wonrsquot swamp you larger ones are spread out enough to give you time to set Not two-footers At least thatrsquos my experience So there are three choices ndash sit in the sand and wait to hopefully be sucked in fix yourself up in the shallows and hope you donrsquot drift sideways or get soaked while preparing or simply wait until you think you have a soft spot between large waves and head out quickly before fixing your skirt

I chose the latter mostly to save time and sure enough after breaking nicely through one wave ahead rose the biggest wave of the morning ndash easily twice the size of the earlier breakers No chance to elegantly clear this one It broke directly into me and pounded me backwards in roiling white water to wash the kayak up on high sand with a cockpit full of water

The real mistake was neglecting to check my gear So a drybag used as a camera case leaked water frying my best camera and an MP3 player Plus my GoPro somehow got knocked from its little waterproof casing and was found floating in the cockpit Plus a two-litre freshwater bag got washed away

The financial tally was one hit but getting wet so early on a day offering no chance to dry out was the immediate downside And all at the expense of three minutes of proper attention to details And all for one ill-planned wave

- John Kimantaseditorcoastandkayakcom

How rushing can be a costly error

Coastampkayak Magazine is an independent magazine available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops outdoor stores paddling clubs marinas events etc) and globally on the web

Paid subscriptions are available for those who prefer home delivery

Articles photos events news are all welcome

General queries kayakcoastandkayakcomEditorial editorcoastandkayakcomAdvertising kayakcoastandkayakcom

Online wwwcoastandkayakcomBack issues Turn the carousel on our home page click on the issue you want to read

CoastampKayak Magazine is dedicated to making self-propelled coastal exploration fun and accessible Safety and travel

information is provided to augment pre-existing safety and knowledge A safety course and proper equipment are advised

before any exploration on water See a list of paddling instruction locations at wwwcoastandkayakcom

Leanne hard at work in the new floating office of CoastampKayak Magazine This issue was produced aboard

Contact Us

Find Us

The First Word

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 5

6 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

News

CaMPFiRe CaRe u Child injuredNo doubt the kayakers thought they were

doing the right thing by covering up their campfire with pebbles and rocks when they left their campsite in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park on July 26

Far from it By covering up the fire without first extinguishing the embers they put into place circumstances that caused a disaster for a family later that day

In the evening a nine-year-old was enjoying the beach when he stepped onto the covered campfire The resulting burns were enough to force the family to abandon their holiday with the injury leaving the child unable to walk for five days

ldquoTwo weeks later his feet are still blistering We were camping with a group of six adults and five kids including a three year old and the fire was not visible to any of usrdquo said mother Katrina Jensen

Itrsquos a reminder to ensure campfires are completely extinguished before leaving them Embers can also continue to burn for days then reignite under the right conditions to start serious fires

ldquoOur son was fortunate that he was able to have immediate first aid to be camping with doctors and that we were able to arrange a ride out relatively quickly Other kids and adults may not have been so luckyrdquo Katrina said

The good news is the youngster made a full recovery is now running on his schoolrsquos cross-country team and used his savings to buy his own kayak

inDUstRy CHanges u Riot rebornExpect to see some jockeying in the

paddlesports industry as some old brand names resurface in new circumstances

Kayak Distribution Company owned by Marc Pelland of Montreal will see the brands Boreal Designs Riot Kayaks and Beluga Outdoor Gear amalgamated under the one banner

In addition Kayak Distribution has joined with Tahe Marine of Estonia to distribute the Tahe line of kayaks including the Zegul and Trapper canoe and kayak brands

Kayak Distribution was first formed in 2007 when Pelland became a partner in Riot Kayaks with Riot founder Jeff Rivest Riot moved the companyrsquos production from Quebec to China then in 2009 Riot parent company Voodoo Technologies declared bankruptcy though Riot continued to operate Rivest eventually left Riot to join the sales team at Point65 Kayaks and Pelland emerged as sole owner

Pelland is a chartered financial analyst and president of Woodchuck Inc a Quebec skateboard manufacturer He also owns and operates a private equity fund

Earlier this year Kayak Distribution bought the BorealDesign brand of kayaks Boreal is a Quebec-based kayak manufacturing company that went bankrupt in February 2012 Passings u Derek Hutchinson

Author renowned kayaking instructor and to many a father of modern sea kayaking Derek Hutchinson passed away

peacefully Oct 10 He was 79Derek was a Senior British Canoe Union

coach (BCUrsquos highest accreditation) a designer of numerous kayaks paddles and kayaking equipment and probably best known for writing ground-breaking sea kayaking instruction books including The Complete Book of Sea Kayaking first published in 1976 with the fifth edition released in 2004

His most famous kayaking trip was crossing the North Sea in a single kayak in 1976 ndash a difficult 160-km crossing that pushed the limits at the time by requiring paddling without sleep for the durationMaRine tRaiLs u nova scotia

The north shore of Nova Scotia is the latest region to join the official inventory of public launch sites for Nova Scotia paddlers

This new section of water trail covers from Tidnish near the New Brunswick border east along the Northumberland Strait to Auldrsquos Cove at the Cape Breton causeway The information will be added to five other sections of coast already online at the Coastal Water Trails website

Each launch site includes directions

Derek Hutchinson performs his rolling lsquohat trickrsquo Photo by Wayne Horodowich

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 7

News

bull C l o t h i n g bull F o o t w e a r bull o u t d o o r g e a r bull K ay a K s bull C a n o e s bull i n s t r u C t i o n bull r e n t a l s bull g u i d e d t o u r s bull o n l i n e s a l e s bull

1824 s t ore s treet V i C t or ia BC V8t 4r4

250bull381bull4 233 wwwoceanrivercom

ldquoGe t t i ng You Ou t The re S i n c e 1981rdquo

i t rsquo s o f f i c i a l w e rsquo v e b e e n v o t e d

the bestk a y a k s t o r e i n c a n a d a amp k aya k s c h o o l i n w e s t e r n c a n a d a

i am extremely

proud to reCeiVe

this honour

Brian henryowner

by land and sea a description of the launch on-site amenities nearby services a GPS reading and photos Possible day tours departing from the launch site are suggested All the sites are located on an on-line map A short introduction to paddling on the north shore will provide some background for people less familiar with this coast u wwwtrailsgovnsca

nationaL PaRks u Land addedThe Gulf Islands National Park Reserve

is now 100 hectares larger and less of a patchwork thanks to new parcels added in a $63 million land purchase in mid October

The new properties are two extensions to the Roesland property on west North Pender Island Maple Bay on southeast Prevost Island (a small bay immediately south of Richardson Bay and the old lighthouse) and a parcel atop Brown Ridge on Saturna Island that brings closer the gap between the central properties on Saturna Island and the Narvaez Bay campsite

The new properties will eventually lead to new trails day use areas and campsites

aCCess RestoReD u kitimatAlcan has re-opened public entry to the

Kitimat waterfront after the corporation cut off the communityrsquos access to the ocean

The Hospital Beach waterfront park and boat ramp were closed by the company due to safety concerns posed by passing trucks After backlash over the summer Alcan relented and has rerouted heavy rock-hauling trucks by building a new bridge

over Anderson Creek new traffic lights at Construction Village and an extra road from the former Eurocan Haul Road

The closure had made kayak trips out of Kitimat difficult despite it being one of just three oceanfront communities along British Columbiarsquos north and central coast The other communities are Bella Coola and Prince Rupert Kitimat is a key gateway to spirit bear habitat near Princess Royal Island

Kayakers land at Arisaig Beach near Cape George Nova Scotia part of the new marine trail

Shee

na M

asso

n ph

oto

News

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

ThE PLan was to make use of the afternoon inflow wind to head up the long central leg of Jervis Inlet

I left the campsite at Fairview Bay in the lower portion of Jervis Inlet near dawn and paddled in calm water through Prince of Wales Reach to finally get a bit of a tailwind once past Vancouver Bay

It didnrsquot last as I rounded Moorsam Bluff I could see the small whitecaps disappear eastward into the distance of the valley behind McCallrsquos Landing ahead of me to the north along Princess Royal Reach lay only flat water I find wind usually likes to follow the waterways here for some reason it was determined to head inland leaving the water ahead in calm

Looking up at the rock face of Moorsam Bluff I was reminded of the several dozen petroglyphs documented along Jervis Inlet so I decided to make the most of the calm and tuck in close to

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

shore for a look I saw either hundreds of petroglyphs or none as all the rock faces were etched and coloured in intricate designs Whether natural or manmade it made no difference as the artistic appeal was there either way I glided toward two prospective beaches only to watch them come into focus as boulder endcaps to old log dumps so therersquod be no stopping along this stretch

at Glacial Creek near a fish farm a gust of wind returned and in an impressively short period of time I was being hit by a hard tailwind kicking up sizeable wind waves I had hoped to get a push but not this kind It may have been rebound waves from the steep shoreline but whatever the cause the result was choppy unpredictable waves hitting me from behind It meant constant course correction and bracing plus getting wet as the whitecaps rolled over my sprayskirt I decided to head towards the northwest shoreline in the hopes of better conditions on the other side of the inlet

I did a shoulder check for traffic before turning and saw just one sailboat in the distance closer to McCallrsquos Landing as I slowly headed to the west shore the conditions became more stable allowing me to pull out a kayak sail By this point the sailboat and I were neck and neck and the sailors watched me suspiciously as I kept their pace after a few minutes the wind died and Jervis Inlet became dead calm marooning the sailboat I paddled over and offered a tow which

they gratefully declinedldquoany idea when slack is at Malibu

Rapidsrdquo the captain askedldquono I never checked Irsquom just winging

itrdquo I replied surprised that he was doing the same My reasoning is the time of slack was irrelevant ndash Irsquod only get there when I got there so there was no sense in planning That and I forgot to check

ldquoItrsquos usually 15 minutes after the Saltery Bay high tiderdquo the captain said ldquoso I figure itrsquos 545rdquo

a major turn in Jervis Inlet is at Saumarez Bluff (left) Vancouver Bay and

Marlborough Peak are in the background

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

u

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

I thanked the captain for the information then paddled away to leave them to their drifting Then I did the math It was 3 pm and I was 18 kilometres away So I either had to hurry to make slack or get there late and do a lengthy portage

The timing it turned out suddenly mattered a great deal

I decided to race to make the slack The water was dead calm now not so much as a ripple so there was no excuse for anything but a perfect paddle stroke I set in at a pace just a hair over 6 kilometres an hour determined to keep it up for three more hours fueled entirely by occasional handfuls

Princess Louisa

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

of peanuts raisins and SmartiesAfter some patience trying

unsuccessfully to find a breeze the sailboat gave up and motored into Queens Reach first well behind me then passing wide to avoid kelp to finally cross into Malibu Rapids ahead in the distance at exactly 545 pm Meanwhile I still had the best part of two kilometres to go One more handful of trail mix and I doubled my efforts

Ahead Club Malibu came into focus the Christian youth camp set on the banks of the rapids Capped by Mount Helena it appeared like some latter-day Utopia with a touch of Tolkienrsquos Rivendell thrown in for good measure It grew gradually in stature until I came alongside and entered the rapids just as the first ripples of adverse current were snaking their way out of the passage I pushed through with no trouble but only by a hair The time was 557 pm 12 minutes after the turn

The passage meandered forward and

I came out into Princess Louisa Inlet ndash a narrow twisting passage hemmed in on all sides by massive mountains graced with punishing cliffsides and a myriad of cascading waterfalls

This was the paradise I had paddled 60 kilometres today to see

PRINCeSS LOUISA INLeT has been a perennial cruising destination

its appeal made famous in part by the book The Curve of Time the endearing memoirs of a mother who cruised the British Columbia coast in a small boat with her two young children back in the late 1920s and early 1930s Part travelogue and part adventure it captures the era of Desolation Sound and the coast of British Columbia in the days when there were only travellers no tourists Author Wylie Blanchetrsquos touching insights and descriptions help keep the book a regular bestseller here in BC and many a traveller

has reached this location based on Wyliersquos inspirational writing revisiting many of her favourite locations while re-reading the book

Though now well known among the cruising world the inlet remains offbeat as a kayaking destination Back in 2005 as part of a publishing industry breakfast in Vancouver I was talking with a fellow author who had put together a book of anecdotes compiled from newspaper columns about kayaking trips I saw a section about Princess Louisa Inlet and asked him how he found paddling it

ldquoNo I took a boat up then kayaked You couldnrsquot kayak there Itrsquos impossiblerdquo he said

And so the gauntlet was laidI first completed the trip back in 2006

but in very different circumstances The world was grey wet and overcast for that trip and so I enjoyed the waterfalls but not the full splendour of the inlet thanks to

Background Princess Louisa Inlet and the view toward Chatterbox Falls shown more closely above Top left on the end of a portage

through Club Malibu at Malibu Rapids on the return journey a homeward-bound campsite on Princess Royal Reach and one of the

numerous waterfalls to be seen in Princess Louisa Inlet

Princess Louisa

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the cloud cover It was also much earlier in the year so instead of inflow and outflow winds to worry about I had a constant outflow current to battle The trip up took two full days the trip back just one

On this trip my window was sunny and warm so I had a strong suspicion inflows would be powerful And they were ndash for about an hour But the spring runoff was long gone so the travel was smooth enough and the blessing was a rare unimpeded view of the surrounding mountains once I arrived

I often coach contributors to CoastampKayak Magazine to express the beauty of a region through description rather than adjectives Princess Louisa however remains outside the realm of fitting description except for perhaps this Irsquove travelled almost all the BC coast now and if I was to become jaded by mountainous landscapes that time would have arrived and long since passed Yet when I turned the final corner to face Chatterbox Falls and its surrounding splendour even for the second time I found myself stunned to immobility Paddling had to wait there was nothing to be done but soak in the landscape and appreciate the steep chiselled rock faces crashing kilometres from summit to sea the uncountable ribbons of waterfalls and central to it all massive Chatterbox Falls pounding directly into the head of the inlet

Yes Princess Louisa Inlet can be kayaked It wonrsquot be easy but few things worthwhile are

nThis trip to Princess Louisa Inlet took

place over eight days with a launch from the CoastampKayak Magazine office (the MV Rainy Day) and back to Parksville a 450-km route involving circumnavigations of Lasqueti Texada and a dip into Sechelt Inlet through Skookumchuck Narrows (shown on the cover though on this journey it was passed nearer slack) The distance was made possible by close attention to winds and was the inspiration for the lsquoLearning to deal with windrsquo article on page 32

Princess Louisa inlet

Chatterbox Falls

Malibu Rapids

Patricia Pt

Princess Royal Reach

Prince of Wales Reach

VancouverBay

Hothamsound

McMurrayBay

FairviewBay

MoorsamBluff

saumarezBluff

McCallrsquosLanding

QueensReach

JeRVis inLet

goliathBay

HarmonyFall

Inside Princess Louisa Inlet on the final turn before the

view of Chatterbox Falls

Princess Louisa Inlet

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Lund BC | 604-483-7900 | 888-552-5558wwwterracentricadventurescom

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportInstruction amp Leadership Programs

Maps Charts amp BooksCentral waterfront location amp launch site

Discover the Power in your Nature

Howe sound

Jervisinlet

skookumchuck

Powell R

sechelt

Lund

Princess Louisa inletDesolation

sound

Discoveryislands

Vancouvernanaimo

Comox

Princess Louisa Inlet is best suited for expert paddlers though water taxis from Egmont Pender Harbour Sechelt Powell River or Lund can reduce the length and difficulty of getting there Two campsites are located in Princess Louisa Inlet Provincial Park ndash one at Chatterbox Falls at the head of the inlet and one 2 km farther down Another amenity is a dock for visiting boaters Tours are available either by relaxed luxury mini-cruiseships or faster Zodiacs Princess Louisa is reached through Jervis Inlet which is the gateway to Desolation Sound and separated from Sechelt Inlet by the famed Skookumchuck Narrows (cover photo) Thus Princess Louisa and Jervis Inlet lend themselves to expedition-length explorations of the wider region and several weeks would only scratch the surface

If you go

Rounding Patricia Point on the way to Princess Royal

Reach on the return journey

Princess Louisa Inlet

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

ldquoMy chief fantasy is that one day the absentee owners (of Little DrsquoArcy Island) will come along and tell me that since I am Little DrsquoArcyrsquos strongest supporter I can live there for the rest of my life for a dollar a year Or perhaps I shall do some service for my country so that Ottawa will offer me my dearest wish Then I will build a log house with lots of glass windows and a stone fireplace and roam the island with my cougar companions Dreamsrdquo

ndash Excerpts from Affair with a Cougar 1978

Tom who wouldnrsquot move unless I followed lay down and rested his head on mine Though small in relation to the rest of his body it was too heavy for my comfort so I shifted it gently Content he sprawled out on his side placed his forepaws on my neck and went to sleep purring With an island of onersquos own such moments could last forever Tom had given me his complete trust and confidence and it was a responsibility I did not take lightly

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

Town of Sidney via Sidney Spit on Sidney Island to the shoals and islets around Little DrsquoArcy The second day would be spent on DrsquoArcy Island with a hike of its cross-island trails then back to Vancouver Island at Island View Beach

No cougars and raccoons aboard this time (though I did want to take my house cat) I invited my paddling buddy Amir a newcomer to Vancouver Island waters and its wildlife

Our first stop was the mile-long sand bar of Sidney Spit Marine Park with its upright log pilings ndash handy signposts that look like totem poles from afar but are really logs driven into the sand to prevent erosion The sheltered sand and grass-edged lagoon with its kayak-friendly beaches were surprisingly deserted this holiday weekend Odd given the abundance of birds ndash murrelets auklets oyster catchers sandpipers great blue herons ndash the clear blue skies and the warm summer sun A change from my customary paddles on the outer coast

eagles swooped down from the steep dry clay cliffs of Sidney Island to pluck unlucky gulls out of a smooth silky sea One determined eagle dived repeatedly with outstretched talons to grab a gull who just as determinedly dipped and dived to

get away Finally the eagle gave up pursuit and returned to its perch on a tree I remembered the fortnightly flights on a float plane to study eagle nests on Sidney Island when most of it was owned by a single man Now there are several private residences on this island a fact we were told in no uncertain terms by one resident while having a quick lunch below the high tide line at the end of the island

The shoals and reefs rocks and islets that surround the DrsquoArcys are replete with wildlife Nesting gulls and cormorants thronged the whitewashed shorelines Sleek seals balanced themselves atop offshore rocks like acrobats Pairs of auklets and murrelets popped up and down in the water like corks A black oystercatcher poked and pried its long red beak around

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

I wrote that fantasy about Little DrsquoArcy Island in the 1978 book Love Affair with a Cougar but neither

scenario came to be instead Big DrsquoArcy Island became a provincial park in 1967 then part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003

In 1985 Phil Middleton bought Little DrsquoArcy Island and built his own dream house above concrete cells left over from the old leper colony Thatrsquos part of a dark chapter in British Columbiarsquos history when Chinese lepers were banished here to a life of solitude between 1890 and 1924

Nine years after moving there Phil read of my passion for Little DrsquoArcy Island and spent a year trying to track me down When he found me in the Northwest Territories he invited me to revisit Little DrsquoArcy and less than a week later I flew south to Sidney and met him We shared our passion for this magic Shangri-la and I was able to revisit bygone days spent here roaming freely with cougars (yes cougars) and releasing orphaned raccoons

One dream remained ndash to return here by kayak instead of the faster rubber dinghy I had used in the past That chance came in August 2012 The plan was a leisurely circle route arriving from the

Top left previous page Lyn Hancock has a nap with Tom back in the late 1960s when it was possible to snuggle with a cougar on DrsquoArcy Island Above Lyn the raccoon whisperer making friends with possible descendants of the raccoons she released in her days as co-owner of Island View Beach Conservation Centre Bottom left normally two cougars in your camp might be a cause for concern but for Lyn it was camping as usual

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

kayakutopia

Sales -Rentals - Instruction - Day Tours - Info Station

com

Comox Valley Kayakson Vancouver Island

1-888-545-5595

maybe itrsquos time for a new kayak

Check out our FLEET SALE

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

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Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

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BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Spring 2010 WaveLength Magazine 3

PROOFSTours British Columbia

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

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T h e B a h a m a s

1 8 0 0 3 0 7 3 9 8 2

Kayak with us in a warm-water paradiseBook your winter getaway now

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Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

Just 45 minutes from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

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bull Kayak Galiano Islandbull Daily Guided Toursamp Rentals since 1985bull 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry Pick-Upbull Open All Year

Join us in Costa Rica Weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

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0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

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Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

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36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

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Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

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Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

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ADDRESS ___________________________________________

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PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

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CreDit CarD paymeNt

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Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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TOTAL $_________

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TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

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5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

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w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

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Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

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Soul-Stirring Design

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100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 3

Chasing a Princess 8

This issuersquos cover by Jaime Sharp

Rec boat wars 36

Island affairs then and now 14

Jaime Sharp captured this self-portrait with a timed picture off the bow of his kayak at Skookumchuck Narrows one of British Columbiarsquos premiere whitewater kayaking destinations thanks to a current that can top 16 knots (30 kmh) Another of his photos is featured with the Greenland paddle article lsquoDifferent strokesrsquo on page 42 of this issue Jaime was part of the Norway expedition featured in Lyn Hancockrsquos article on the Lofoten Islands in the Summer 2012 issue of CoastampKayak Magazine He is a travel guide and has paddled extensively around the world including Panama Belize New Zealand Fiji Croatia and worked in the Canadarsquos Arctic as a dogsled guide and wolf naturalist He is a New Zealander now based out of British Columbia uworldwildadventureexpblogspotca

First Word 4News 6Wildlife 22Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands 13 South Gulf Islands 21

Barkley Sound 25 Haida Gwaii 26 North Gulf Islands 30 Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound 31Various destinations 18Instruction 41

Inside

In decades past Lyn Hancock had the rare experience to cuddle and cavort with cougars on the shores of DrsquoArcy Island her private retreat near Victoria BC Fifty years later she kayaked there to retrace her footsteps to one of the coastrsquos most fascinating islands ndash where cougars were family and lepers were outcasts

Chances are most kayakers wonrsquot rate a kayak under 16 feet as a contender for title of lsquobestrsquo And yet these smaller recreation boats compose the majority of the market for kayak sales That means a wide range of choices with more than ever for 2013 We look at whatrsquos new in this roundup of the rec boat category

There is no better inspiration for a trip than to be told it canrsquot be done CoastampKayak editor John Kimantas returns to Princess Louisa Inlet a second time to experience by paddle the location that has captivated cruisers for decades Itrsquos not a major kayaking destination though Should it be Read and decide

4 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Winter 2012 Volume 22 Number 4 PM No 41687515

A product ofWild Coast Publishing

PO Box 24 Stn ANanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

The worldrsquos only publishing company run aboard a boat (that we know of anyway)

Ph 1-866-984-6437 bull Fax 1-866-654-1937Email kayakcoastandkayakcomWebsite wwwcoastandkayakcom

Physical address Aboard the Rainy Day Somewhere on the Pacific Ocean

copy 2012 Copyright is retained on all material (text photos and graphics) in this magazine No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form print or electronic for any purpose

except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing

Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2010 courtesy of the Atlas of Canada Also our thanks to Geobase for some

elements that may appear on CoastampKayak maps

Advertising rates and submission guidelinesavailable at wwwcoastandkayakcom

subscribe$20 for 1 year ndash 4 issues

$35 for 2 years ndash 8 issuesOnline subscriptions Free

CoastampKayak Magazine is made available free but subscriptions ensure the magazine is

delivered to your home and that you will never miss an issue To subscribe visit

wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml or call 1-866-984-6437

ISSUE ADDEADLINE DISTRIBUTION 2013scheduletobedetermined

I decided late this summer thanks to a spate of good weather to do a run down Vancouver Islandrsquos southwest coast One problem with the West Coast though is even when there is good weather across the rest of the world here it can be shrouded in fog So I arrived at Pachena Bay near Bamfield in bright sunshine but looked out across the water to see a dismally dull and gloomy pall of fog

My partner Leanne dropped me off just an hour before sunset so there wasnrsquot much time to consider my fate A beach in a cove on the outer south shore of Pachena Bay looked promising and seemed to position me well for the run along the West Coast Trail portion of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve The hope was to complete that stretch the next day (no doubt to the chagrin of hikers who usually take five to six days to walk the trail)

On arriving though I found the bay not nearly as indented as I had hoped nor was there the usual break from white water on either end of the beach I landed through about a foot of surf onto a rocky and forlorn beach No matter I set up camp amid ever-increasing gloom and was soon asleep rising before dawn to load in the dark

Itrsquos an odd quirk of the coast that even over a calm night the surf can rise come morning And so where surf had been a foot at sunset at dawn the water broke through the morning gloom as two-foot breakers

Irsquove learned to be weary of two-footers There simply isnrsquot enough time to sit and fix your sprayskirt before being swamped by the next oncoming wave Smaller waves wonrsquot swamp you larger ones are spread out enough to give you time to set Not two-footers At least thatrsquos my experience So there are three choices ndash sit in the sand and wait to hopefully be sucked in fix yourself up in the shallows and hope you donrsquot drift sideways or get soaked while preparing or simply wait until you think you have a soft spot between large waves and head out quickly before fixing your skirt

I chose the latter mostly to save time and sure enough after breaking nicely through one wave ahead rose the biggest wave of the morning ndash easily twice the size of the earlier breakers No chance to elegantly clear this one It broke directly into me and pounded me backwards in roiling white water to wash the kayak up on high sand with a cockpit full of water

The real mistake was neglecting to check my gear So a drybag used as a camera case leaked water frying my best camera and an MP3 player Plus my GoPro somehow got knocked from its little waterproof casing and was found floating in the cockpit Plus a two-litre freshwater bag got washed away

The financial tally was one hit but getting wet so early on a day offering no chance to dry out was the immediate downside And all at the expense of three minutes of proper attention to details And all for one ill-planned wave

- John Kimantaseditorcoastandkayakcom

How rushing can be a costly error

Coastampkayak Magazine is an independent magazine available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops outdoor stores paddling clubs marinas events etc) and globally on the web

Paid subscriptions are available for those who prefer home delivery

Articles photos events news are all welcome

General queries kayakcoastandkayakcomEditorial editorcoastandkayakcomAdvertising kayakcoastandkayakcom

Online wwwcoastandkayakcomBack issues Turn the carousel on our home page click on the issue you want to read

CoastampKayak Magazine is dedicated to making self-propelled coastal exploration fun and accessible Safety and travel

information is provided to augment pre-existing safety and knowledge A safety course and proper equipment are advised

before any exploration on water See a list of paddling instruction locations at wwwcoastandkayakcom

Leanne hard at work in the new floating office of CoastampKayak Magazine This issue was produced aboard

Contact Us

Find Us

The First Word

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 5

6 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

News

CaMPFiRe CaRe u Child injuredNo doubt the kayakers thought they were

doing the right thing by covering up their campfire with pebbles and rocks when they left their campsite in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park on July 26

Far from it By covering up the fire without first extinguishing the embers they put into place circumstances that caused a disaster for a family later that day

In the evening a nine-year-old was enjoying the beach when he stepped onto the covered campfire The resulting burns were enough to force the family to abandon their holiday with the injury leaving the child unable to walk for five days

ldquoTwo weeks later his feet are still blistering We were camping with a group of six adults and five kids including a three year old and the fire was not visible to any of usrdquo said mother Katrina Jensen

Itrsquos a reminder to ensure campfires are completely extinguished before leaving them Embers can also continue to burn for days then reignite under the right conditions to start serious fires

ldquoOur son was fortunate that he was able to have immediate first aid to be camping with doctors and that we were able to arrange a ride out relatively quickly Other kids and adults may not have been so luckyrdquo Katrina said

The good news is the youngster made a full recovery is now running on his schoolrsquos cross-country team and used his savings to buy his own kayak

inDUstRy CHanges u Riot rebornExpect to see some jockeying in the

paddlesports industry as some old brand names resurface in new circumstances

Kayak Distribution Company owned by Marc Pelland of Montreal will see the brands Boreal Designs Riot Kayaks and Beluga Outdoor Gear amalgamated under the one banner

In addition Kayak Distribution has joined with Tahe Marine of Estonia to distribute the Tahe line of kayaks including the Zegul and Trapper canoe and kayak brands

Kayak Distribution was first formed in 2007 when Pelland became a partner in Riot Kayaks with Riot founder Jeff Rivest Riot moved the companyrsquos production from Quebec to China then in 2009 Riot parent company Voodoo Technologies declared bankruptcy though Riot continued to operate Rivest eventually left Riot to join the sales team at Point65 Kayaks and Pelland emerged as sole owner

Pelland is a chartered financial analyst and president of Woodchuck Inc a Quebec skateboard manufacturer He also owns and operates a private equity fund

Earlier this year Kayak Distribution bought the BorealDesign brand of kayaks Boreal is a Quebec-based kayak manufacturing company that went bankrupt in February 2012 Passings u Derek Hutchinson

Author renowned kayaking instructor and to many a father of modern sea kayaking Derek Hutchinson passed away

peacefully Oct 10 He was 79Derek was a Senior British Canoe Union

coach (BCUrsquos highest accreditation) a designer of numerous kayaks paddles and kayaking equipment and probably best known for writing ground-breaking sea kayaking instruction books including The Complete Book of Sea Kayaking first published in 1976 with the fifth edition released in 2004

His most famous kayaking trip was crossing the North Sea in a single kayak in 1976 ndash a difficult 160-km crossing that pushed the limits at the time by requiring paddling without sleep for the durationMaRine tRaiLs u nova scotia

The north shore of Nova Scotia is the latest region to join the official inventory of public launch sites for Nova Scotia paddlers

This new section of water trail covers from Tidnish near the New Brunswick border east along the Northumberland Strait to Auldrsquos Cove at the Cape Breton causeway The information will be added to five other sections of coast already online at the Coastal Water Trails website

Each launch site includes directions

Derek Hutchinson performs his rolling lsquohat trickrsquo Photo by Wayne Horodowich

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 7

News

bull C l o t h i n g bull F o o t w e a r bull o u t d o o r g e a r bull K ay a K s bull C a n o e s bull i n s t r u C t i o n bull r e n t a l s bull g u i d e d t o u r s bull o n l i n e s a l e s bull

1824 s t ore s treet V i C t or ia BC V8t 4r4

250bull381bull4 233 wwwoceanrivercom

ldquoGe t t i ng You Ou t The re S i n c e 1981rdquo

i t rsquo s o f f i c i a l w e rsquo v e b e e n v o t e d

the bestk a y a k s t o r e i n c a n a d a amp k aya k s c h o o l i n w e s t e r n c a n a d a

i am extremely

proud to reCeiVe

this honour

Brian henryowner

by land and sea a description of the launch on-site amenities nearby services a GPS reading and photos Possible day tours departing from the launch site are suggested All the sites are located on an on-line map A short introduction to paddling on the north shore will provide some background for people less familiar with this coast u wwwtrailsgovnsca

nationaL PaRks u Land addedThe Gulf Islands National Park Reserve

is now 100 hectares larger and less of a patchwork thanks to new parcels added in a $63 million land purchase in mid October

The new properties are two extensions to the Roesland property on west North Pender Island Maple Bay on southeast Prevost Island (a small bay immediately south of Richardson Bay and the old lighthouse) and a parcel atop Brown Ridge on Saturna Island that brings closer the gap between the central properties on Saturna Island and the Narvaez Bay campsite

The new properties will eventually lead to new trails day use areas and campsites

aCCess RestoReD u kitimatAlcan has re-opened public entry to the

Kitimat waterfront after the corporation cut off the communityrsquos access to the ocean

The Hospital Beach waterfront park and boat ramp were closed by the company due to safety concerns posed by passing trucks After backlash over the summer Alcan relented and has rerouted heavy rock-hauling trucks by building a new bridge

over Anderson Creek new traffic lights at Construction Village and an extra road from the former Eurocan Haul Road

The closure had made kayak trips out of Kitimat difficult despite it being one of just three oceanfront communities along British Columbiarsquos north and central coast The other communities are Bella Coola and Prince Rupert Kitimat is a key gateway to spirit bear habitat near Princess Royal Island

Kayakers land at Arisaig Beach near Cape George Nova Scotia part of the new marine trail

Shee

na M

asso

n ph

oto

News

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

ThE PLan was to make use of the afternoon inflow wind to head up the long central leg of Jervis Inlet

I left the campsite at Fairview Bay in the lower portion of Jervis Inlet near dawn and paddled in calm water through Prince of Wales Reach to finally get a bit of a tailwind once past Vancouver Bay

It didnrsquot last as I rounded Moorsam Bluff I could see the small whitecaps disappear eastward into the distance of the valley behind McCallrsquos Landing ahead of me to the north along Princess Royal Reach lay only flat water I find wind usually likes to follow the waterways here for some reason it was determined to head inland leaving the water ahead in calm

Looking up at the rock face of Moorsam Bluff I was reminded of the several dozen petroglyphs documented along Jervis Inlet so I decided to make the most of the calm and tuck in close to

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

shore for a look I saw either hundreds of petroglyphs or none as all the rock faces were etched and coloured in intricate designs Whether natural or manmade it made no difference as the artistic appeal was there either way I glided toward two prospective beaches only to watch them come into focus as boulder endcaps to old log dumps so therersquod be no stopping along this stretch

at Glacial Creek near a fish farm a gust of wind returned and in an impressively short period of time I was being hit by a hard tailwind kicking up sizeable wind waves I had hoped to get a push but not this kind It may have been rebound waves from the steep shoreline but whatever the cause the result was choppy unpredictable waves hitting me from behind It meant constant course correction and bracing plus getting wet as the whitecaps rolled over my sprayskirt I decided to head towards the northwest shoreline in the hopes of better conditions on the other side of the inlet

I did a shoulder check for traffic before turning and saw just one sailboat in the distance closer to McCallrsquos Landing as I slowly headed to the west shore the conditions became more stable allowing me to pull out a kayak sail By this point the sailboat and I were neck and neck and the sailors watched me suspiciously as I kept their pace after a few minutes the wind died and Jervis Inlet became dead calm marooning the sailboat I paddled over and offered a tow which

they gratefully declinedldquoany idea when slack is at Malibu

Rapidsrdquo the captain askedldquono I never checked Irsquom just winging

itrdquo I replied surprised that he was doing the same My reasoning is the time of slack was irrelevant ndash Irsquod only get there when I got there so there was no sense in planning That and I forgot to check

ldquoItrsquos usually 15 minutes after the Saltery Bay high tiderdquo the captain said ldquoso I figure itrsquos 545rdquo

a major turn in Jervis Inlet is at Saumarez Bluff (left) Vancouver Bay and

Marlborough Peak are in the background

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

u

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

I thanked the captain for the information then paddled away to leave them to their drifting Then I did the math It was 3 pm and I was 18 kilometres away So I either had to hurry to make slack or get there late and do a lengthy portage

The timing it turned out suddenly mattered a great deal

I decided to race to make the slack The water was dead calm now not so much as a ripple so there was no excuse for anything but a perfect paddle stroke I set in at a pace just a hair over 6 kilometres an hour determined to keep it up for three more hours fueled entirely by occasional handfuls

Princess Louisa

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

of peanuts raisins and SmartiesAfter some patience trying

unsuccessfully to find a breeze the sailboat gave up and motored into Queens Reach first well behind me then passing wide to avoid kelp to finally cross into Malibu Rapids ahead in the distance at exactly 545 pm Meanwhile I still had the best part of two kilometres to go One more handful of trail mix and I doubled my efforts

Ahead Club Malibu came into focus the Christian youth camp set on the banks of the rapids Capped by Mount Helena it appeared like some latter-day Utopia with a touch of Tolkienrsquos Rivendell thrown in for good measure It grew gradually in stature until I came alongside and entered the rapids just as the first ripples of adverse current were snaking their way out of the passage I pushed through with no trouble but only by a hair The time was 557 pm 12 minutes after the turn

The passage meandered forward and

I came out into Princess Louisa Inlet ndash a narrow twisting passage hemmed in on all sides by massive mountains graced with punishing cliffsides and a myriad of cascading waterfalls

This was the paradise I had paddled 60 kilometres today to see

PRINCeSS LOUISA INLeT has been a perennial cruising destination

its appeal made famous in part by the book The Curve of Time the endearing memoirs of a mother who cruised the British Columbia coast in a small boat with her two young children back in the late 1920s and early 1930s Part travelogue and part adventure it captures the era of Desolation Sound and the coast of British Columbia in the days when there were only travellers no tourists Author Wylie Blanchetrsquos touching insights and descriptions help keep the book a regular bestseller here in BC and many a traveller

has reached this location based on Wyliersquos inspirational writing revisiting many of her favourite locations while re-reading the book

Though now well known among the cruising world the inlet remains offbeat as a kayaking destination Back in 2005 as part of a publishing industry breakfast in Vancouver I was talking with a fellow author who had put together a book of anecdotes compiled from newspaper columns about kayaking trips I saw a section about Princess Louisa Inlet and asked him how he found paddling it

ldquoNo I took a boat up then kayaked You couldnrsquot kayak there Itrsquos impossiblerdquo he said

And so the gauntlet was laidI first completed the trip back in 2006

but in very different circumstances The world was grey wet and overcast for that trip and so I enjoyed the waterfalls but not the full splendour of the inlet thanks to

Background Princess Louisa Inlet and the view toward Chatterbox Falls shown more closely above Top left on the end of a portage

through Club Malibu at Malibu Rapids on the return journey a homeward-bound campsite on Princess Royal Reach and one of the

numerous waterfalls to be seen in Princess Louisa Inlet

Princess Louisa

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the cloud cover It was also much earlier in the year so instead of inflow and outflow winds to worry about I had a constant outflow current to battle The trip up took two full days the trip back just one

On this trip my window was sunny and warm so I had a strong suspicion inflows would be powerful And they were ndash for about an hour But the spring runoff was long gone so the travel was smooth enough and the blessing was a rare unimpeded view of the surrounding mountains once I arrived

I often coach contributors to CoastampKayak Magazine to express the beauty of a region through description rather than adjectives Princess Louisa however remains outside the realm of fitting description except for perhaps this Irsquove travelled almost all the BC coast now and if I was to become jaded by mountainous landscapes that time would have arrived and long since passed Yet when I turned the final corner to face Chatterbox Falls and its surrounding splendour even for the second time I found myself stunned to immobility Paddling had to wait there was nothing to be done but soak in the landscape and appreciate the steep chiselled rock faces crashing kilometres from summit to sea the uncountable ribbons of waterfalls and central to it all massive Chatterbox Falls pounding directly into the head of the inlet

Yes Princess Louisa Inlet can be kayaked It wonrsquot be easy but few things worthwhile are

nThis trip to Princess Louisa Inlet took

place over eight days with a launch from the CoastampKayak Magazine office (the MV Rainy Day) and back to Parksville a 450-km route involving circumnavigations of Lasqueti Texada and a dip into Sechelt Inlet through Skookumchuck Narrows (shown on the cover though on this journey it was passed nearer slack) The distance was made possible by close attention to winds and was the inspiration for the lsquoLearning to deal with windrsquo article on page 32

Princess Louisa inlet

Chatterbox Falls

Malibu Rapids

Patricia Pt

Princess Royal Reach

Prince of Wales Reach

VancouverBay

Hothamsound

McMurrayBay

FairviewBay

MoorsamBluff

saumarezBluff

McCallrsquosLanding

QueensReach

JeRVis inLet

goliathBay

HarmonyFall

Inside Princess Louisa Inlet on the final turn before the

view of Chatterbox Falls

Princess Louisa Inlet

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Lund BC | 604-483-7900 | 888-552-5558wwwterracentricadventurescom

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportInstruction amp Leadership Programs

Maps Charts amp BooksCentral waterfront location amp launch site

Discover the Power in your Nature

Howe sound

Jervisinlet

skookumchuck

Powell R

sechelt

Lund

Princess Louisa inletDesolation

sound

Discoveryislands

Vancouvernanaimo

Comox

Princess Louisa Inlet is best suited for expert paddlers though water taxis from Egmont Pender Harbour Sechelt Powell River or Lund can reduce the length and difficulty of getting there Two campsites are located in Princess Louisa Inlet Provincial Park ndash one at Chatterbox Falls at the head of the inlet and one 2 km farther down Another amenity is a dock for visiting boaters Tours are available either by relaxed luxury mini-cruiseships or faster Zodiacs Princess Louisa is reached through Jervis Inlet which is the gateway to Desolation Sound and separated from Sechelt Inlet by the famed Skookumchuck Narrows (cover photo) Thus Princess Louisa and Jervis Inlet lend themselves to expedition-length explorations of the wider region and several weeks would only scratch the surface

If you go

Rounding Patricia Point on the way to Princess Royal

Reach on the return journey

Princess Louisa Inlet

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

ldquoMy chief fantasy is that one day the absentee owners (of Little DrsquoArcy Island) will come along and tell me that since I am Little DrsquoArcyrsquos strongest supporter I can live there for the rest of my life for a dollar a year Or perhaps I shall do some service for my country so that Ottawa will offer me my dearest wish Then I will build a log house with lots of glass windows and a stone fireplace and roam the island with my cougar companions Dreamsrdquo

ndash Excerpts from Affair with a Cougar 1978

Tom who wouldnrsquot move unless I followed lay down and rested his head on mine Though small in relation to the rest of his body it was too heavy for my comfort so I shifted it gently Content he sprawled out on his side placed his forepaws on my neck and went to sleep purring With an island of onersquos own such moments could last forever Tom had given me his complete trust and confidence and it was a responsibility I did not take lightly

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

Town of Sidney via Sidney Spit on Sidney Island to the shoals and islets around Little DrsquoArcy The second day would be spent on DrsquoArcy Island with a hike of its cross-island trails then back to Vancouver Island at Island View Beach

No cougars and raccoons aboard this time (though I did want to take my house cat) I invited my paddling buddy Amir a newcomer to Vancouver Island waters and its wildlife

Our first stop was the mile-long sand bar of Sidney Spit Marine Park with its upright log pilings ndash handy signposts that look like totem poles from afar but are really logs driven into the sand to prevent erosion The sheltered sand and grass-edged lagoon with its kayak-friendly beaches were surprisingly deserted this holiday weekend Odd given the abundance of birds ndash murrelets auklets oyster catchers sandpipers great blue herons ndash the clear blue skies and the warm summer sun A change from my customary paddles on the outer coast

eagles swooped down from the steep dry clay cliffs of Sidney Island to pluck unlucky gulls out of a smooth silky sea One determined eagle dived repeatedly with outstretched talons to grab a gull who just as determinedly dipped and dived to

get away Finally the eagle gave up pursuit and returned to its perch on a tree I remembered the fortnightly flights on a float plane to study eagle nests on Sidney Island when most of it was owned by a single man Now there are several private residences on this island a fact we were told in no uncertain terms by one resident while having a quick lunch below the high tide line at the end of the island

The shoals and reefs rocks and islets that surround the DrsquoArcys are replete with wildlife Nesting gulls and cormorants thronged the whitewashed shorelines Sleek seals balanced themselves atop offshore rocks like acrobats Pairs of auklets and murrelets popped up and down in the water like corks A black oystercatcher poked and pried its long red beak around

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

I wrote that fantasy about Little DrsquoArcy Island in the 1978 book Love Affair with a Cougar but neither

scenario came to be instead Big DrsquoArcy Island became a provincial park in 1967 then part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003

In 1985 Phil Middleton bought Little DrsquoArcy Island and built his own dream house above concrete cells left over from the old leper colony Thatrsquos part of a dark chapter in British Columbiarsquos history when Chinese lepers were banished here to a life of solitude between 1890 and 1924

Nine years after moving there Phil read of my passion for Little DrsquoArcy Island and spent a year trying to track me down When he found me in the Northwest Territories he invited me to revisit Little DrsquoArcy and less than a week later I flew south to Sidney and met him We shared our passion for this magic Shangri-la and I was able to revisit bygone days spent here roaming freely with cougars (yes cougars) and releasing orphaned raccoons

One dream remained ndash to return here by kayak instead of the faster rubber dinghy I had used in the past That chance came in August 2012 The plan was a leisurely circle route arriving from the

Top left previous page Lyn Hancock has a nap with Tom back in the late 1960s when it was possible to snuggle with a cougar on DrsquoArcy Island Above Lyn the raccoon whisperer making friends with possible descendants of the raccoons she released in her days as co-owner of Island View Beach Conservation Centre Bottom left normally two cougars in your camp might be a cause for concern but for Lyn it was camping as usual

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

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18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

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Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

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0

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100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

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water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

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wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

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Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

Kayak Repair amp Refit

bull Component Replacementsbull Gel Coat Refinishing

Vancouver Island South

22 - 2300 Canoe Cove RoadSidney BC V8L 3X9

(250) 654-0052

Andrea Morrison

Meet Blacklinersquos kayak specialist ndash ten years of manufacturing and

repair experience

bull Keel Line Rebuildsbull Structural Repairs

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

1-866-323-3525wwwautomarineca SINCE 1907

The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

Our boats are designed to travel by air land and sea

Go The Distance paddle with power and controlwith Canadian Hand Craftedhellip

BUY FACTORY DIRECT wwwnimbuspaddlescom infonimbuspaddlescom

designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

Danuu

wwwDANUUcomDanuu PaddleSport Accessories

ee

three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

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PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

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Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

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VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

4 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Winter 2012 Volume 22 Number 4 PM No 41687515

A product ofWild Coast Publishing

PO Box 24 Stn ANanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

The worldrsquos only publishing company run aboard a boat (that we know of anyway)

Ph 1-866-984-6437 bull Fax 1-866-654-1937Email kayakcoastandkayakcomWebsite wwwcoastandkayakcom

Physical address Aboard the Rainy Day Somewhere on the Pacific Ocean

copy 2012 Copyright is retained on all material (text photos and graphics) in this magazine No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form print or electronic for any purpose

except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing

Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2010 courtesy of the Atlas of Canada Also our thanks to Geobase for some

elements that may appear on CoastampKayak maps

Advertising rates and submission guidelinesavailable at wwwcoastandkayakcom

subscribe$20 for 1 year ndash 4 issues

$35 for 2 years ndash 8 issuesOnline subscriptions Free

CoastampKayak Magazine is made available free but subscriptions ensure the magazine is

delivered to your home and that you will never miss an issue To subscribe visit

wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml or call 1-866-984-6437

ISSUE ADDEADLINE DISTRIBUTION 2013scheduletobedetermined

I decided late this summer thanks to a spate of good weather to do a run down Vancouver Islandrsquos southwest coast One problem with the West Coast though is even when there is good weather across the rest of the world here it can be shrouded in fog So I arrived at Pachena Bay near Bamfield in bright sunshine but looked out across the water to see a dismally dull and gloomy pall of fog

My partner Leanne dropped me off just an hour before sunset so there wasnrsquot much time to consider my fate A beach in a cove on the outer south shore of Pachena Bay looked promising and seemed to position me well for the run along the West Coast Trail portion of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve The hope was to complete that stretch the next day (no doubt to the chagrin of hikers who usually take five to six days to walk the trail)

On arriving though I found the bay not nearly as indented as I had hoped nor was there the usual break from white water on either end of the beach I landed through about a foot of surf onto a rocky and forlorn beach No matter I set up camp amid ever-increasing gloom and was soon asleep rising before dawn to load in the dark

Itrsquos an odd quirk of the coast that even over a calm night the surf can rise come morning And so where surf had been a foot at sunset at dawn the water broke through the morning gloom as two-foot breakers

Irsquove learned to be weary of two-footers There simply isnrsquot enough time to sit and fix your sprayskirt before being swamped by the next oncoming wave Smaller waves wonrsquot swamp you larger ones are spread out enough to give you time to set Not two-footers At least thatrsquos my experience So there are three choices ndash sit in the sand and wait to hopefully be sucked in fix yourself up in the shallows and hope you donrsquot drift sideways or get soaked while preparing or simply wait until you think you have a soft spot between large waves and head out quickly before fixing your skirt

I chose the latter mostly to save time and sure enough after breaking nicely through one wave ahead rose the biggest wave of the morning ndash easily twice the size of the earlier breakers No chance to elegantly clear this one It broke directly into me and pounded me backwards in roiling white water to wash the kayak up on high sand with a cockpit full of water

The real mistake was neglecting to check my gear So a drybag used as a camera case leaked water frying my best camera and an MP3 player Plus my GoPro somehow got knocked from its little waterproof casing and was found floating in the cockpit Plus a two-litre freshwater bag got washed away

The financial tally was one hit but getting wet so early on a day offering no chance to dry out was the immediate downside And all at the expense of three minutes of proper attention to details And all for one ill-planned wave

- John Kimantaseditorcoastandkayakcom

How rushing can be a costly error

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Paid subscriptions are available for those who prefer home delivery

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CoastampKayak Magazine is dedicated to making self-propelled coastal exploration fun and accessible Safety and travel

information is provided to augment pre-existing safety and knowledge A safety course and proper equipment are advised

before any exploration on water See a list of paddling instruction locations at wwwcoastandkayakcom

Leanne hard at work in the new floating office of CoastampKayak Magazine This issue was produced aboard

Contact Us

Find Us

The First Word

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 5

6 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

News

CaMPFiRe CaRe u Child injuredNo doubt the kayakers thought they were

doing the right thing by covering up their campfire with pebbles and rocks when they left their campsite in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park on July 26

Far from it By covering up the fire without first extinguishing the embers they put into place circumstances that caused a disaster for a family later that day

In the evening a nine-year-old was enjoying the beach when he stepped onto the covered campfire The resulting burns were enough to force the family to abandon their holiday with the injury leaving the child unable to walk for five days

ldquoTwo weeks later his feet are still blistering We were camping with a group of six adults and five kids including a three year old and the fire was not visible to any of usrdquo said mother Katrina Jensen

Itrsquos a reminder to ensure campfires are completely extinguished before leaving them Embers can also continue to burn for days then reignite under the right conditions to start serious fires

ldquoOur son was fortunate that he was able to have immediate first aid to be camping with doctors and that we were able to arrange a ride out relatively quickly Other kids and adults may not have been so luckyrdquo Katrina said

The good news is the youngster made a full recovery is now running on his schoolrsquos cross-country team and used his savings to buy his own kayak

inDUstRy CHanges u Riot rebornExpect to see some jockeying in the

paddlesports industry as some old brand names resurface in new circumstances

Kayak Distribution Company owned by Marc Pelland of Montreal will see the brands Boreal Designs Riot Kayaks and Beluga Outdoor Gear amalgamated under the one banner

In addition Kayak Distribution has joined with Tahe Marine of Estonia to distribute the Tahe line of kayaks including the Zegul and Trapper canoe and kayak brands

Kayak Distribution was first formed in 2007 when Pelland became a partner in Riot Kayaks with Riot founder Jeff Rivest Riot moved the companyrsquos production from Quebec to China then in 2009 Riot parent company Voodoo Technologies declared bankruptcy though Riot continued to operate Rivest eventually left Riot to join the sales team at Point65 Kayaks and Pelland emerged as sole owner

Pelland is a chartered financial analyst and president of Woodchuck Inc a Quebec skateboard manufacturer He also owns and operates a private equity fund

Earlier this year Kayak Distribution bought the BorealDesign brand of kayaks Boreal is a Quebec-based kayak manufacturing company that went bankrupt in February 2012 Passings u Derek Hutchinson

Author renowned kayaking instructor and to many a father of modern sea kayaking Derek Hutchinson passed away

peacefully Oct 10 He was 79Derek was a Senior British Canoe Union

coach (BCUrsquos highest accreditation) a designer of numerous kayaks paddles and kayaking equipment and probably best known for writing ground-breaking sea kayaking instruction books including The Complete Book of Sea Kayaking first published in 1976 with the fifth edition released in 2004

His most famous kayaking trip was crossing the North Sea in a single kayak in 1976 ndash a difficult 160-km crossing that pushed the limits at the time by requiring paddling without sleep for the durationMaRine tRaiLs u nova scotia

The north shore of Nova Scotia is the latest region to join the official inventory of public launch sites for Nova Scotia paddlers

This new section of water trail covers from Tidnish near the New Brunswick border east along the Northumberland Strait to Auldrsquos Cove at the Cape Breton causeway The information will be added to five other sections of coast already online at the Coastal Water Trails website

Each launch site includes directions

Derek Hutchinson performs his rolling lsquohat trickrsquo Photo by Wayne Horodowich

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 7

News

bull C l o t h i n g bull F o o t w e a r bull o u t d o o r g e a r bull K ay a K s bull C a n o e s bull i n s t r u C t i o n bull r e n t a l s bull g u i d e d t o u r s bull o n l i n e s a l e s bull

1824 s t ore s treet V i C t or ia BC V8t 4r4

250bull381bull4 233 wwwoceanrivercom

ldquoGe t t i ng You Ou t The re S i n c e 1981rdquo

i t rsquo s o f f i c i a l w e rsquo v e b e e n v o t e d

the bestk a y a k s t o r e i n c a n a d a amp k aya k s c h o o l i n w e s t e r n c a n a d a

i am extremely

proud to reCeiVe

this honour

Brian henryowner

by land and sea a description of the launch on-site amenities nearby services a GPS reading and photos Possible day tours departing from the launch site are suggested All the sites are located on an on-line map A short introduction to paddling on the north shore will provide some background for people less familiar with this coast u wwwtrailsgovnsca

nationaL PaRks u Land addedThe Gulf Islands National Park Reserve

is now 100 hectares larger and less of a patchwork thanks to new parcels added in a $63 million land purchase in mid October

The new properties are two extensions to the Roesland property on west North Pender Island Maple Bay on southeast Prevost Island (a small bay immediately south of Richardson Bay and the old lighthouse) and a parcel atop Brown Ridge on Saturna Island that brings closer the gap between the central properties on Saturna Island and the Narvaez Bay campsite

The new properties will eventually lead to new trails day use areas and campsites

aCCess RestoReD u kitimatAlcan has re-opened public entry to the

Kitimat waterfront after the corporation cut off the communityrsquos access to the ocean

The Hospital Beach waterfront park and boat ramp were closed by the company due to safety concerns posed by passing trucks After backlash over the summer Alcan relented and has rerouted heavy rock-hauling trucks by building a new bridge

over Anderson Creek new traffic lights at Construction Village and an extra road from the former Eurocan Haul Road

The closure had made kayak trips out of Kitimat difficult despite it being one of just three oceanfront communities along British Columbiarsquos north and central coast The other communities are Bella Coola and Prince Rupert Kitimat is a key gateway to spirit bear habitat near Princess Royal Island

Kayakers land at Arisaig Beach near Cape George Nova Scotia part of the new marine trail

Shee

na M

asso

n ph

oto

News

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

ThE PLan was to make use of the afternoon inflow wind to head up the long central leg of Jervis Inlet

I left the campsite at Fairview Bay in the lower portion of Jervis Inlet near dawn and paddled in calm water through Prince of Wales Reach to finally get a bit of a tailwind once past Vancouver Bay

It didnrsquot last as I rounded Moorsam Bluff I could see the small whitecaps disappear eastward into the distance of the valley behind McCallrsquos Landing ahead of me to the north along Princess Royal Reach lay only flat water I find wind usually likes to follow the waterways here for some reason it was determined to head inland leaving the water ahead in calm

Looking up at the rock face of Moorsam Bluff I was reminded of the several dozen petroglyphs documented along Jervis Inlet so I decided to make the most of the calm and tuck in close to

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

shore for a look I saw either hundreds of petroglyphs or none as all the rock faces were etched and coloured in intricate designs Whether natural or manmade it made no difference as the artistic appeal was there either way I glided toward two prospective beaches only to watch them come into focus as boulder endcaps to old log dumps so therersquod be no stopping along this stretch

at Glacial Creek near a fish farm a gust of wind returned and in an impressively short period of time I was being hit by a hard tailwind kicking up sizeable wind waves I had hoped to get a push but not this kind It may have been rebound waves from the steep shoreline but whatever the cause the result was choppy unpredictable waves hitting me from behind It meant constant course correction and bracing plus getting wet as the whitecaps rolled over my sprayskirt I decided to head towards the northwest shoreline in the hopes of better conditions on the other side of the inlet

I did a shoulder check for traffic before turning and saw just one sailboat in the distance closer to McCallrsquos Landing as I slowly headed to the west shore the conditions became more stable allowing me to pull out a kayak sail By this point the sailboat and I were neck and neck and the sailors watched me suspiciously as I kept their pace after a few minutes the wind died and Jervis Inlet became dead calm marooning the sailboat I paddled over and offered a tow which

they gratefully declinedldquoany idea when slack is at Malibu

Rapidsrdquo the captain askedldquono I never checked Irsquom just winging

itrdquo I replied surprised that he was doing the same My reasoning is the time of slack was irrelevant ndash Irsquod only get there when I got there so there was no sense in planning That and I forgot to check

ldquoItrsquos usually 15 minutes after the Saltery Bay high tiderdquo the captain said ldquoso I figure itrsquos 545rdquo

a major turn in Jervis Inlet is at Saumarez Bluff (left) Vancouver Bay and

Marlborough Peak are in the background

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

u

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

I thanked the captain for the information then paddled away to leave them to their drifting Then I did the math It was 3 pm and I was 18 kilometres away So I either had to hurry to make slack or get there late and do a lengthy portage

The timing it turned out suddenly mattered a great deal

I decided to race to make the slack The water was dead calm now not so much as a ripple so there was no excuse for anything but a perfect paddle stroke I set in at a pace just a hair over 6 kilometres an hour determined to keep it up for three more hours fueled entirely by occasional handfuls

Princess Louisa

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

of peanuts raisins and SmartiesAfter some patience trying

unsuccessfully to find a breeze the sailboat gave up and motored into Queens Reach first well behind me then passing wide to avoid kelp to finally cross into Malibu Rapids ahead in the distance at exactly 545 pm Meanwhile I still had the best part of two kilometres to go One more handful of trail mix and I doubled my efforts

Ahead Club Malibu came into focus the Christian youth camp set on the banks of the rapids Capped by Mount Helena it appeared like some latter-day Utopia with a touch of Tolkienrsquos Rivendell thrown in for good measure It grew gradually in stature until I came alongside and entered the rapids just as the first ripples of adverse current were snaking their way out of the passage I pushed through with no trouble but only by a hair The time was 557 pm 12 minutes after the turn

The passage meandered forward and

I came out into Princess Louisa Inlet ndash a narrow twisting passage hemmed in on all sides by massive mountains graced with punishing cliffsides and a myriad of cascading waterfalls

This was the paradise I had paddled 60 kilometres today to see

PRINCeSS LOUISA INLeT has been a perennial cruising destination

its appeal made famous in part by the book The Curve of Time the endearing memoirs of a mother who cruised the British Columbia coast in a small boat with her two young children back in the late 1920s and early 1930s Part travelogue and part adventure it captures the era of Desolation Sound and the coast of British Columbia in the days when there were only travellers no tourists Author Wylie Blanchetrsquos touching insights and descriptions help keep the book a regular bestseller here in BC and many a traveller

has reached this location based on Wyliersquos inspirational writing revisiting many of her favourite locations while re-reading the book

Though now well known among the cruising world the inlet remains offbeat as a kayaking destination Back in 2005 as part of a publishing industry breakfast in Vancouver I was talking with a fellow author who had put together a book of anecdotes compiled from newspaper columns about kayaking trips I saw a section about Princess Louisa Inlet and asked him how he found paddling it

ldquoNo I took a boat up then kayaked You couldnrsquot kayak there Itrsquos impossiblerdquo he said

And so the gauntlet was laidI first completed the trip back in 2006

but in very different circumstances The world was grey wet and overcast for that trip and so I enjoyed the waterfalls but not the full splendour of the inlet thanks to

Background Princess Louisa Inlet and the view toward Chatterbox Falls shown more closely above Top left on the end of a portage

through Club Malibu at Malibu Rapids on the return journey a homeward-bound campsite on Princess Royal Reach and one of the

numerous waterfalls to be seen in Princess Louisa Inlet

Princess Louisa

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the cloud cover It was also much earlier in the year so instead of inflow and outflow winds to worry about I had a constant outflow current to battle The trip up took two full days the trip back just one

On this trip my window was sunny and warm so I had a strong suspicion inflows would be powerful And they were ndash for about an hour But the spring runoff was long gone so the travel was smooth enough and the blessing was a rare unimpeded view of the surrounding mountains once I arrived

I often coach contributors to CoastampKayak Magazine to express the beauty of a region through description rather than adjectives Princess Louisa however remains outside the realm of fitting description except for perhaps this Irsquove travelled almost all the BC coast now and if I was to become jaded by mountainous landscapes that time would have arrived and long since passed Yet when I turned the final corner to face Chatterbox Falls and its surrounding splendour even for the second time I found myself stunned to immobility Paddling had to wait there was nothing to be done but soak in the landscape and appreciate the steep chiselled rock faces crashing kilometres from summit to sea the uncountable ribbons of waterfalls and central to it all massive Chatterbox Falls pounding directly into the head of the inlet

Yes Princess Louisa Inlet can be kayaked It wonrsquot be easy but few things worthwhile are

nThis trip to Princess Louisa Inlet took

place over eight days with a launch from the CoastampKayak Magazine office (the MV Rainy Day) and back to Parksville a 450-km route involving circumnavigations of Lasqueti Texada and a dip into Sechelt Inlet through Skookumchuck Narrows (shown on the cover though on this journey it was passed nearer slack) The distance was made possible by close attention to winds and was the inspiration for the lsquoLearning to deal with windrsquo article on page 32

Princess Louisa inlet

Chatterbox Falls

Malibu Rapids

Patricia Pt

Princess Royal Reach

Prince of Wales Reach

VancouverBay

Hothamsound

McMurrayBay

FairviewBay

MoorsamBluff

saumarezBluff

McCallrsquosLanding

QueensReach

JeRVis inLet

goliathBay

HarmonyFall

Inside Princess Louisa Inlet on the final turn before the

view of Chatterbox Falls

Princess Louisa Inlet

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Lund BC | 604-483-7900 | 888-552-5558wwwterracentricadventurescom

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportInstruction amp Leadership Programs

Maps Charts amp BooksCentral waterfront location amp launch site

Discover the Power in your Nature

Howe sound

Jervisinlet

skookumchuck

Powell R

sechelt

Lund

Princess Louisa inletDesolation

sound

Discoveryislands

Vancouvernanaimo

Comox

Princess Louisa Inlet is best suited for expert paddlers though water taxis from Egmont Pender Harbour Sechelt Powell River or Lund can reduce the length and difficulty of getting there Two campsites are located in Princess Louisa Inlet Provincial Park ndash one at Chatterbox Falls at the head of the inlet and one 2 km farther down Another amenity is a dock for visiting boaters Tours are available either by relaxed luxury mini-cruiseships or faster Zodiacs Princess Louisa is reached through Jervis Inlet which is the gateway to Desolation Sound and separated from Sechelt Inlet by the famed Skookumchuck Narrows (cover photo) Thus Princess Louisa and Jervis Inlet lend themselves to expedition-length explorations of the wider region and several weeks would only scratch the surface

If you go

Rounding Patricia Point on the way to Princess Royal

Reach on the return journey

Princess Louisa Inlet

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

ldquoMy chief fantasy is that one day the absentee owners (of Little DrsquoArcy Island) will come along and tell me that since I am Little DrsquoArcyrsquos strongest supporter I can live there for the rest of my life for a dollar a year Or perhaps I shall do some service for my country so that Ottawa will offer me my dearest wish Then I will build a log house with lots of glass windows and a stone fireplace and roam the island with my cougar companions Dreamsrdquo

ndash Excerpts from Affair with a Cougar 1978

Tom who wouldnrsquot move unless I followed lay down and rested his head on mine Though small in relation to the rest of his body it was too heavy for my comfort so I shifted it gently Content he sprawled out on his side placed his forepaws on my neck and went to sleep purring With an island of onersquos own such moments could last forever Tom had given me his complete trust and confidence and it was a responsibility I did not take lightly

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

Town of Sidney via Sidney Spit on Sidney Island to the shoals and islets around Little DrsquoArcy The second day would be spent on DrsquoArcy Island with a hike of its cross-island trails then back to Vancouver Island at Island View Beach

No cougars and raccoons aboard this time (though I did want to take my house cat) I invited my paddling buddy Amir a newcomer to Vancouver Island waters and its wildlife

Our first stop was the mile-long sand bar of Sidney Spit Marine Park with its upright log pilings ndash handy signposts that look like totem poles from afar but are really logs driven into the sand to prevent erosion The sheltered sand and grass-edged lagoon with its kayak-friendly beaches were surprisingly deserted this holiday weekend Odd given the abundance of birds ndash murrelets auklets oyster catchers sandpipers great blue herons ndash the clear blue skies and the warm summer sun A change from my customary paddles on the outer coast

eagles swooped down from the steep dry clay cliffs of Sidney Island to pluck unlucky gulls out of a smooth silky sea One determined eagle dived repeatedly with outstretched talons to grab a gull who just as determinedly dipped and dived to

get away Finally the eagle gave up pursuit and returned to its perch on a tree I remembered the fortnightly flights on a float plane to study eagle nests on Sidney Island when most of it was owned by a single man Now there are several private residences on this island a fact we were told in no uncertain terms by one resident while having a quick lunch below the high tide line at the end of the island

The shoals and reefs rocks and islets that surround the DrsquoArcys are replete with wildlife Nesting gulls and cormorants thronged the whitewashed shorelines Sleek seals balanced themselves atop offshore rocks like acrobats Pairs of auklets and murrelets popped up and down in the water like corks A black oystercatcher poked and pried its long red beak around

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

I wrote that fantasy about Little DrsquoArcy Island in the 1978 book Love Affair with a Cougar but neither

scenario came to be instead Big DrsquoArcy Island became a provincial park in 1967 then part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003

In 1985 Phil Middleton bought Little DrsquoArcy Island and built his own dream house above concrete cells left over from the old leper colony Thatrsquos part of a dark chapter in British Columbiarsquos history when Chinese lepers were banished here to a life of solitude between 1890 and 1924

Nine years after moving there Phil read of my passion for Little DrsquoArcy Island and spent a year trying to track me down When he found me in the Northwest Territories he invited me to revisit Little DrsquoArcy and less than a week later I flew south to Sidney and met him We shared our passion for this magic Shangri-la and I was able to revisit bygone days spent here roaming freely with cougars (yes cougars) and releasing orphaned raccoons

One dream remained ndash to return here by kayak instead of the faster rubber dinghy I had used in the past That chance came in August 2012 The plan was a leisurely circle route arriving from the

Top left previous page Lyn Hancock has a nap with Tom back in the late 1960s when it was possible to snuggle with a cougar on DrsquoArcy Island Above Lyn the raccoon whisperer making friends with possible descendants of the raccoons she released in her days as co-owner of Island View Beach Conservation Centre Bottom left normally two cougars in your camp might be a cause for concern but for Lyn it was camping as usual

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

kayakutopia

Sales -Rentals - Instruction - Day Tours - Info Station

com

Comox Valley Kayakson Vancouver Island

1-888-545-5595

maybe itrsquos time for a new kayak

Check out our FLEET SALE

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Spring 2010 WaveLength Magazine 3

PROOFSTours British Columbia

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

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Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

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T h e B a h a m a s

1 8 0 0 3 0 7 3 9 8 2

Kayak with us in a warm-water paradiseBook your winter getaway now

www k a y a k i n g t o u r s c om

Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

Just 45 minutes from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Kayak Galiano Islandbull Daily Guided Toursamp Rentals since 1985bull 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry Pick-Upbull Open All Year

Join us in Costa Rica Weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets

Expeditions

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear

163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide CoursesTwo Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

Lessons amp Rentals

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

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Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

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36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

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Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

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CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

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expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

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Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

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right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

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100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 5

6 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

News

CaMPFiRe CaRe u Child injuredNo doubt the kayakers thought they were

doing the right thing by covering up their campfire with pebbles and rocks when they left their campsite in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park on July 26

Far from it By covering up the fire without first extinguishing the embers they put into place circumstances that caused a disaster for a family later that day

In the evening a nine-year-old was enjoying the beach when he stepped onto the covered campfire The resulting burns were enough to force the family to abandon their holiday with the injury leaving the child unable to walk for five days

ldquoTwo weeks later his feet are still blistering We were camping with a group of six adults and five kids including a three year old and the fire was not visible to any of usrdquo said mother Katrina Jensen

Itrsquos a reminder to ensure campfires are completely extinguished before leaving them Embers can also continue to burn for days then reignite under the right conditions to start serious fires

ldquoOur son was fortunate that he was able to have immediate first aid to be camping with doctors and that we were able to arrange a ride out relatively quickly Other kids and adults may not have been so luckyrdquo Katrina said

The good news is the youngster made a full recovery is now running on his schoolrsquos cross-country team and used his savings to buy his own kayak

inDUstRy CHanges u Riot rebornExpect to see some jockeying in the

paddlesports industry as some old brand names resurface in new circumstances

Kayak Distribution Company owned by Marc Pelland of Montreal will see the brands Boreal Designs Riot Kayaks and Beluga Outdoor Gear amalgamated under the one banner

In addition Kayak Distribution has joined with Tahe Marine of Estonia to distribute the Tahe line of kayaks including the Zegul and Trapper canoe and kayak brands

Kayak Distribution was first formed in 2007 when Pelland became a partner in Riot Kayaks with Riot founder Jeff Rivest Riot moved the companyrsquos production from Quebec to China then in 2009 Riot parent company Voodoo Technologies declared bankruptcy though Riot continued to operate Rivest eventually left Riot to join the sales team at Point65 Kayaks and Pelland emerged as sole owner

Pelland is a chartered financial analyst and president of Woodchuck Inc a Quebec skateboard manufacturer He also owns and operates a private equity fund

Earlier this year Kayak Distribution bought the BorealDesign brand of kayaks Boreal is a Quebec-based kayak manufacturing company that went bankrupt in February 2012 Passings u Derek Hutchinson

Author renowned kayaking instructor and to many a father of modern sea kayaking Derek Hutchinson passed away

peacefully Oct 10 He was 79Derek was a Senior British Canoe Union

coach (BCUrsquos highest accreditation) a designer of numerous kayaks paddles and kayaking equipment and probably best known for writing ground-breaking sea kayaking instruction books including The Complete Book of Sea Kayaking first published in 1976 with the fifth edition released in 2004

His most famous kayaking trip was crossing the North Sea in a single kayak in 1976 ndash a difficult 160-km crossing that pushed the limits at the time by requiring paddling without sleep for the durationMaRine tRaiLs u nova scotia

The north shore of Nova Scotia is the latest region to join the official inventory of public launch sites for Nova Scotia paddlers

This new section of water trail covers from Tidnish near the New Brunswick border east along the Northumberland Strait to Auldrsquos Cove at the Cape Breton causeway The information will be added to five other sections of coast already online at the Coastal Water Trails website

Each launch site includes directions

Derek Hutchinson performs his rolling lsquohat trickrsquo Photo by Wayne Horodowich

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 7

News

bull C l o t h i n g bull F o o t w e a r bull o u t d o o r g e a r bull K ay a K s bull C a n o e s bull i n s t r u C t i o n bull r e n t a l s bull g u i d e d t o u r s bull o n l i n e s a l e s bull

1824 s t ore s treet V i C t or ia BC V8t 4r4

250bull381bull4 233 wwwoceanrivercom

ldquoGe t t i ng You Ou t The re S i n c e 1981rdquo

i t rsquo s o f f i c i a l w e rsquo v e b e e n v o t e d

the bestk a y a k s t o r e i n c a n a d a amp k aya k s c h o o l i n w e s t e r n c a n a d a

i am extremely

proud to reCeiVe

this honour

Brian henryowner

by land and sea a description of the launch on-site amenities nearby services a GPS reading and photos Possible day tours departing from the launch site are suggested All the sites are located on an on-line map A short introduction to paddling on the north shore will provide some background for people less familiar with this coast u wwwtrailsgovnsca

nationaL PaRks u Land addedThe Gulf Islands National Park Reserve

is now 100 hectares larger and less of a patchwork thanks to new parcels added in a $63 million land purchase in mid October

The new properties are two extensions to the Roesland property on west North Pender Island Maple Bay on southeast Prevost Island (a small bay immediately south of Richardson Bay and the old lighthouse) and a parcel atop Brown Ridge on Saturna Island that brings closer the gap between the central properties on Saturna Island and the Narvaez Bay campsite

The new properties will eventually lead to new trails day use areas and campsites

aCCess RestoReD u kitimatAlcan has re-opened public entry to the

Kitimat waterfront after the corporation cut off the communityrsquos access to the ocean

The Hospital Beach waterfront park and boat ramp were closed by the company due to safety concerns posed by passing trucks After backlash over the summer Alcan relented and has rerouted heavy rock-hauling trucks by building a new bridge

over Anderson Creek new traffic lights at Construction Village and an extra road from the former Eurocan Haul Road

The closure had made kayak trips out of Kitimat difficult despite it being one of just three oceanfront communities along British Columbiarsquos north and central coast The other communities are Bella Coola and Prince Rupert Kitimat is a key gateway to spirit bear habitat near Princess Royal Island

Kayakers land at Arisaig Beach near Cape George Nova Scotia part of the new marine trail

Shee

na M

asso

n ph

oto

News

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

ThE PLan was to make use of the afternoon inflow wind to head up the long central leg of Jervis Inlet

I left the campsite at Fairview Bay in the lower portion of Jervis Inlet near dawn and paddled in calm water through Prince of Wales Reach to finally get a bit of a tailwind once past Vancouver Bay

It didnrsquot last as I rounded Moorsam Bluff I could see the small whitecaps disappear eastward into the distance of the valley behind McCallrsquos Landing ahead of me to the north along Princess Royal Reach lay only flat water I find wind usually likes to follow the waterways here for some reason it was determined to head inland leaving the water ahead in calm

Looking up at the rock face of Moorsam Bluff I was reminded of the several dozen petroglyphs documented along Jervis Inlet so I decided to make the most of the calm and tuck in close to

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

shore for a look I saw either hundreds of petroglyphs or none as all the rock faces were etched and coloured in intricate designs Whether natural or manmade it made no difference as the artistic appeal was there either way I glided toward two prospective beaches only to watch them come into focus as boulder endcaps to old log dumps so therersquod be no stopping along this stretch

at Glacial Creek near a fish farm a gust of wind returned and in an impressively short period of time I was being hit by a hard tailwind kicking up sizeable wind waves I had hoped to get a push but not this kind It may have been rebound waves from the steep shoreline but whatever the cause the result was choppy unpredictable waves hitting me from behind It meant constant course correction and bracing plus getting wet as the whitecaps rolled over my sprayskirt I decided to head towards the northwest shoreline in the hopes of better conditions on the other side of the inlet

I did a shoulder check for traffic before turning and saw just one sailboat in the distance closer to McCallrsquos Landing as I slowly headed to the west shore the conditions became more stable allowing me to pull out a kayak sail By this point the sailboat and I were neck and neck and the sailors watched me suspiciously as I kept their pace after a few minutes the wind died and Jervis Inlet became dead calm marooning the sailboat I paddled over and offered a tow which

they gratefully declinedldquoany idea when slack is at Malibu

Rapidsrdquo the captain askedldquono I never checked Irsquom just winging

itrdquo I replied surprised that he was doing the same My reasoning is the time of slack was irrelevant ndash Irsquod only get there when I got there so there was no sense in planning That and I forgot to check

ldquoItrsquos usually 15 minutes after the Saltery Bay high tiderdquo the captain said ldquoso I figure itrsquos 545rdquo

a major turn in Jervis Inlet is at Saumarez Bluff (left) Vancouver Bay and

Marlborough Peak are in the background

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

u

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

I thanked the captain for the information then paddled away to leave them to their drifting Then I did the math It was 3 pm and I was 18 kilometres away So I either had to hurry to make slack or get there late and do a lengthy portage

The timing it turned out suddenly mattered a great deal

I decided to race to make the slack The water was dead calm now not so much as a ripple so there was no excuse for anything but a perfect paddle stroke I set in at a pace just a hair over 6 kilometres an hour determined to keep it up for three more hours fueled entirely by occasional handfuls

Princess Louisa

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

of peanuts raisins and SmartiesAfter some patience trying

unsuccessfully to find a breeze the sailboat gave up and motored into Queens Reach first well behind me then passing wide to avoid kelp to finally cross into Malibu Rapids ahead in the distance at exactly 545 pm Meanwhile I still had the best part of two kilometres to go One more handful of trail mix and I doubled my efforts

Ahead Club Malibu came into focus the Christian youth camp set on the banks of the rapids Capped by Mount Helena it appeared like some latter-day Utopia with a touch of Tolkienrsquos Rivendell thrown in for good measure It grew gradually in stature until I came alongside and entered the rapids just as the first ripples of adverse current were snaking their way out of the passage I pushed through with no trouble but only by a hair The time was 557 pm 12 minutes after the turn

The passage meandered forward and

I came out into Princess Louisa Inlet ndash a narrow twisting passage hemmed in on all sides by massive mountains graced with punishing cliffsides and a myriad of cascading waterfalls

This was the paradise I had paddled 60 kilometres today to see

PRINCeSS LOUISA INLeT has been a perennial cruising destination

its appeal made famous in part by the book The Curve of Time the endearing memoirs of a mother who cruised the British Columbia coast in a small boat with her two young children back in the late 1920s and early 1930s Part travelogue and part adventure it captures the era of Desolation Sound and the coast of British Columbia in the days when there were only travellers no tourists Author Wylie Blanchetrsquos touching insights and descriptions help keep the book a regular bestseller here in BC and many a traveller

has reached this location based on Wyliersquos inspirational writing revisiting many of her favourite locations while re-reading the book

Though now well known among the cruising world the inlet remains offbeat as a kayaking destination Back in 2005 as part of a publishing industry breakfast in Vancouver I was talking with a fellow author who had put together a book of anecdotes compiled from newspaper columns about kayaking trips I saw a section about Princess Louisa Inlet and asked him how he found paddling it

ldquoNo I took a boat up then kayaked You couldnrsquot kayak there Itrsquos impossiblerdquo he said

And so the gauntlet was laidI first completed the trip back in 2006

but in very different circumstances The world was grey wet and overcast for that trip and so I enjoyed the waterfalls but not the full splendour of the inlet thanks to

Background Princess Louisa Inlet and the view toward Chatterbox Falls shown more closely above Top left on the end of a portage

through Club Malibu at Malibu Rapids on the return journey a homeward-bound campsite on Princess Royal Reach and one of the

numerous waterfalls to be seen in Princess Louisa Inlet

Princess Louisa

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the cloud cover It was also much earlier in the year so instead of inflow and outflow winds to worry about I had a constant outflow current to battle The trip up took two full days the trip back just one

On this trip my window was sunny and warm so I had a strong suspicion inflows would be powerful And they were ndash for about an hour But the spring runoff was long gone so the travel was smooth enough and the blessing was a rare unimpeded view of the surrounding mountains once I arrived

I often coach contributors to CoastampKayak Magazine to express the beauty of a region through description rather than adjectives Princess Louisa however remains outside the realm of fitting description except for perhaps this Irsquove travelled almost all the BC coast now and if I was to become jaded by mountainous landscapes that time would have arrived and long since passed Yet when I turned the final corner to face Chatterbox Falls and its surrounding splendour even for the second time I found myself stunned to immobility Paddling had to wait there was nothing to be done but soak in the landscape and appreciate the steep chiselled rock faces crashing kilometres from summit to sea the uncountable ribbons of waterfalls and central to it all massive Chatterbox Falls pounding directly into the head of the inlet

Yes Princess Louisa Inlet can be kayaked It wonrsquot be easy but few things worthwhile are

nThis trip to Princess Louisa Inlet took

place over eight days with a launch from the CoastampKayak Magazine office (the MV Rainy Day) and back to Parksville a 450-km route involving circumnavigations of Lasqueti Texada and a dip into Sechelt Inlet through Skookumchuck Narrows (shown on the cover though on this journey it was passed nearer slack) The distance was made possible by close attention to winds and was the inspiration for the lsquoLearning to deal with windrsquo article on page 32

Princess Louisa inlet

Chatterbox Falls

Malibu Rapids

Patricia Pt

Princess Royal Reach

Prince of Wales Reach

VancouverBay

Hothamsound

McMurrayBay

FairviewBay

MoorsamBluff

saumarezBluff

McCallrsquosLanding

QueensReach

JeRVis inLet

goliathBay

HarmonyFall

Inside Princess Louisa Inlet on the final turn before the

view of Chatterbox Falls

Princess Louisa Inlet

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Lund BC | 604-483-7900 | 888-552-5558wwwterracentricadventurescom

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportInstruction amp Leadership Programs

Maps Charts amp BooksCentral waterfront location amp launch site

Discover the Power in your Nature

Howe sound

Jervisinlet

skookumchuck

Powell R

sechelt

Lund

Princess Louisa inletDesolation

sound

Discoveryislands

Vancouvernanaimo

Comox

Princess Louisa Inlet is best suited for expert paddlers though water taxis from Egmont Pender Harbour Sechelt Powell River or Lund can reduce the length and difficulty of getting there Two campsites are located in Princess Louisa Inlet Provincial Park ndash one at Chatterbox Falls at the head of the inlet and one 2 km farther down Another amenity is a dock for visiting boaters Tours are available either by relaxed luxury mini-cruiseships or faster Zodiacs Princess Louisa is reached through Jervis Inlet which is the gateway to Desolation Sound and separated from Sechelt Inlet by the famed Skookumchuck Narrows (cover photo) Thus Princess Louisa and Jervis Inlet lend themselves to expedition-length explorations of the wider region and several weeks would only scratch the surface

If you go

Rounding Patricia Point on the way to Princess Royal

Reach on the return journey

Princess Louisa Inlet

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

ldquoMy chief fantasy is that one day the absentee owners (of Little DrsquoArcy Island) will come along and tell me that since I am Little DrsquoArcyrsquos strongest supporter I can live there for the rest of my life for a dollar a year Or perhaps I shall do some service for my country so that Ottawa will offer me my dearest wish Then I will build a log house with lots of glass windows and a stone fireplace and roam the island with my cougar companions Dreamsrdquo

ndash Excerpts from Affair with a Cougar 1978

Tom who wouldnrsquot move unless I followed lay down and rested his head on mine Though small in relation to the rest of his body it was too heavy for my comfort so I shifted it gently Content he sprawled out on his side placed his forepaws on my neck and went to sleep purring With an island of onersquos own such moments could last forever Tom had given me his complete trust and confidence and it was a responsibility I did not take lightly

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

Town of Sidney via Sidney Spit on Sidney Island to the shoals and islets around Little DrsquoArcy The second day would be spent on DrsquoArcy Island with a hike of its cross-island trails then back to Vancouver Island at Island View Beach

No cougars and raccoons aboard this time (though I did want to take my house cat) I invited my paddling buddy Amir a newcomer to Vancouver Island waters and its wildlife

Our first stop was the mile-long sand bar of Sidney Spit Marine Park with its upright log pilings ndash handy signposts that look like totem poles from afar but are really logs driven into the sand to prevent erosion The sheltered sand and grass-edged lagoon with its kayak-friendly beaches were surprisingly deserted this holiday weekend Odd given the abundance of birds ndash murrelets auklets oyster catchers sandpipers great blue herons ndash the clear blue skies and the warm summer sun A change from my customary paddles on the outer coast

eagles swooped down from the steep dry clay cliffs of Sidney Island to pluck unlucky gulls out of a smooth silky sea One determined eagle dived repeatedly with outstretched talons to grab a gull who just as determinedly dipped and dived to

get away Finally the eagle gave up pursuit and returned to its perch on a tree I remembered the fortnightly flights on a float plane to study eagle nests on Sidney Island when most of it was owned by a single man Now there are several private residences on this island a fact we were told in no uncertain terms by one resident while having a quick lunch below the high tide line at the end of the island

The shoals and reefs rocks and islets that surround the DrsquoArcys are replete with wildlife Nesting gulls and cormorants thronged the whitewashed shorelines Sleek seals balanced themselves atop offshore rocks like acrobats Pairs of auklets and murrelets popped up and down in the water like corks A black oystercatcher poked and pried its long red beak around

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

I wrote that fantasy about Little DrsquoArcy Island in the 1978 book Love Affair with a Cougar but neither

scenario came to be instead Big DrsquoArcy Island became a provincial park in 1967 then part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003

In 1985 Phil Middleton bought Little DrsquoArcy Island and built his own dream house above concrete cells left over from the old leper colony Thatrsquos part of a dark chapter in British Columbiarsquos history when Chinese lepers were banished here to a life of solitude between 1890 and 1924

Nine years after moving there Phil read of my passion for Little DrsquoArcy Island and spent a year trying to track me down When he found me in the Northwest Territories he invited me to revisit Little DrsquoArcy and less than a week later I flew south to Sidney and met him We shared our passion for this magic Shangri-la and I was able to revisit bygone days spent here roaming freely with cougars (yes cougars) and releasing orphaned raccoons

One dream remained ndash to return here by kayak instead of the faster rubber dinghy I had used in the past That chance came in August 2012 The plan was a leisurely circle route arriving from the

Top left previous page Lyn Hancock has a nap with Tom back in the late 1960s when it was possible to snuggle with a cougar on DrsquoArcy Island Above Lyn the raccoon whisperer making friends with possible descendants of the raccoons she released in her days as co-owner of Island View Beach Conservation Centre Bottom left normally two cougars in your camp might be a cause for concern but for Lyn it was camping as usual

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

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18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

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Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

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BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

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Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

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~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Spring 2010 WaveLength Magazine 3

PROOFSTours British Columbia

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

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Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

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100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

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Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

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We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

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educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

bullConvenient

international shipping

Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

Custom Building

FEATURING

woodboat_adqxpLayout 1 91610 123 PM Page 1

advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

Kayak Repair amp Refit

bull Component Replacementsbull Gel Coat Refinishing

Vancouver Island South

22 - 2300 Canoe Cove RoadSidney BC V8L 3X9

(250) 654-0052

Andrea Morrison

Meet Blacklinersquos kayak specialist ndash ten years of manufacturing and

repair experience

bull Keel Line Rebuildsbull Structural Repairs

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

1-866-323-3525wwwautomarineca SINCE 1907

The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

Our boats are designed to travel by air land and sea

Go The Distance paddle with power and controlwith Canadian Hand Craftedhellip

BUY FACTORY DIRECT wwwnimbuspaddlescom infonimbuspaddlescom

designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

Danuu

wwwDANUUcomDanuu PaddleSport Accessories

ee

three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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C

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Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

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Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

6 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

News

CaMPFiRe CaRe u Child injuredNo doubt the kayakers thought they were

doing the right thing by covering up their campfire with pebbles and rocks when they left their campsite in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park on July 26

Far from it By covering up the fire without first extinguishing the embers they put into place circumstances that caused a disaster for a family later that day

In the evening a nine-year-old was enjoying the beach when he stepped onto the covered campfire The resulting burns were enough to force the family to abandon their holiday with the injury leaving the child unable to walk for five days

ldquoTwo weeks later his feet are still blistering We were camping with a group of six adults and five kids including a three year old and the fire was not visible to any of usrdquo said mother Katrina Jensen

Itrsquos a reminder to ensure campfires are completely extinguished before leaving them Embers can also continue to burn for days then reignite under the right conditions to start serious fires

ldquoOur son was fortunate that he was able to have immediate first aid to be camping with doctors and that we were able to arrange a ride out relatively quickly Other kids and adults may not have been so luckyrdquo Katrina said

The good news is the youngster made a full recovery is now running on his schoolrsquos cross-country team and used his savings to buy his own kayak

inDUstRy CHanges u Riot rebornExpect to see some jockeying in the

paddlesports industry as some old brand names resurface in new circumstances

Kayak Distribution Company owned by Marc Pelland of Montreal will see the brands Boreal Designs Riot Kayaks and Beluga Outdoor Gear amalgamated under the one banner

In addition Kayak Distribution has joined with Tahe Marine of Estonia to distribute the Tahe line of kayaks including the Zegul and Trapper canoe and kayak brands

Kayak Distribution was first formed in 2007 when Pelland became a partner in Riot Kayaks with Riot founder Jeff Rivest Riot moved the companyrsquos production from Quebec to China then in 2009 Riot parent company Voodoo Technologies declared bankruptcy though Riot continued to operate Rivest eventually left Riot to join the sales team at Point65 Kayaks and Pelland emerged as sole owner

Pelland is a chartered financial analyst and president of Woodchuck Inc a Quebec skateboard manufacturer He also owns and operates a private equity fund

Earlier this year Kayak Distribution bought the BorealDesign brand of kayaks Boreal is a Quebec-based kayak manufacturing company that went bankrupt in February 2012 Passings u Derek Hutchinson

Author renowned kayaking instructor and to many a father of modern sea kayaking Derek Hutchinson passed away

peacefully Oct 10 He was 79Derek was a Senior British Canoe Union

coach (BCUrsquos highest accreditation) a designer of numerous kayaks paddles and kayaking equipment and probably best known for writing ground-breaking sea kayaking instruction books including The Complete Book of Sea Kayaking first published in 1976 with the fifth edition released in 2004

His most famous kayaking trip was crossing the North Sea in a single kayak in 1976 ndash a difficult 160-km crossing that pushed the limits at the time by requiring paddling without sleep for the durationMaRine tRaiLs u nova scotia

The north shore of Nova Scotia is the latest region to join the official inventory of public launch sites for Nova Scotia paddlers

This new section of water trail covers from Tidnish near the New Brunswick border east along the Northumberland Strait to Auldrsquos Cove at the Cape Breton causeway The information will be added to five other sections of coast already online at the Coastal Water Trails website

Each launch site includes directions

Derek Hutchinson performs his rolling lsquohat trickrsquo Photo by Wayne Horodowich

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 7

News

bull C l o t h i n g bull F o o t w e a r bull o u t d o o r g e a r bull K ay a K s bull C a n o e s bull i n s t r u C t i o n bull r e n t a l s bull g u i d e d t o u r s bull o n l i n e s a l e s bull

1824 s t ore s treet V i C t or ia BC V8t 4r4

250bull381bull4 233 wwwoceanrivercom

ldquoGe t t i ng You Ou t The re S i n c e 1981rdquo

i t rsquo s o f f i c i a l w e rsquo v e b e e n v o t e d

the bestk a y a k s t o r e i n c a n a d a amp k aya k s c h o o l i n w e s t e r n c a n a d a

i am extremely

proud to reCeiVe

this honour

Brian henryowner

by land and sea a description of the launch on-site amenities nearby services a GPS reading and photos Possible day tours departing from the launch site are suggested All the sites are located on an on-line map A short introduction to paddling on the north shore will provide some background for people less familiar with this coast u wwwtrailsgovnsca

nationaL PaRks u Land addedThe Gulf Islands National Park Reserve

is now 100 hectares larger and less of a patchwork thanks to new parcels added in a $63 million land purchase in mid October

The new properties are two extensions to the Roesland property on west North Pender Island Maple Bay on southeast Prevost Island (a small bay immediately south of Richardson Bay and the old lighthouse) and a parcel atop Brown Ridge on Saturna Island that brings closer the gap between the central properties on Saturna Island and the Narvaez Bay campsite

The new properties will eventually lead to new trails day use areas and campsites

aCCess RestoReD u kitimatAlcan has re-opened public entry to the

Kitimat waterfront after the corporation cut off the communityrsquos access to the ocean

The Hospital Beach waterfront park and boat ramp were closed by the company due to safety concerns posed by passing trucks After backlash over the summer Alcan relented and has rerouted heavy rock-hauling trucks by building a new bridge

over Anderson Creek new traffic lights at Construction Village and an extra road from the former Eurocan Haul Road

The closure had made kayak trips out of Kitimat difficult despite it being one of just three oceanfront communities along British Columbiarsquos north and central coast The other communities are Bella Coola and Prince Rupert Kitimat is a key gateway to spirit bear habitat near Princess Royal Island

Kayakers land at Arisaig Beach near Cape George Nova Scotia part of the new marine trail

Shee

na M

asso

n ph

oto

News

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

ThE PLan was to make use of the afternoon inflow wind to head up the long central leg of Jervis Inlet

I left the campsite at Fairview Bay in the lower portion of Jervis Inlet near dawn and paddled in calm water through Prince of Wales Reach to finally get a bit of a tailwind once past Vancouver Bay

It didnrsquot last as I rounded Moorsam Bluff I could see the small whitecaps disappear eastward into the distance of the valley behind McCallrsquos Landing ahead of me to the north along Princess Royal Reach lay only flat water I find wind usually likes to follow the waterways here for some reason it was determined to head inland leaving the water ahead in calm

Looking up at the rock face of Moorsam Bluff I was reminded of the several dozen petroglyphs documented along Jervis Inlet so I decided to make the most of the calm and tuck in close to

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

shore for a look I saw either hundreds of petroglyphs or none as all the rock faces were etched and coloured in intricate designs Whether natural or manmade it made no difference as the artistic appeal was there either way I glided toward two prospective beaches only to watch them come into focus as boulder endcaps to old log dumps so therersquod be no stopping along this stretch

at Glacial Creek near a fish farm a gust of wind returned and in an impressively short period of time I was being hit by a hard tailwind kicking up sizeable wind waves I had hoped to get a push but not this kind It may have been rebound waves from the steep shoreline but whatever the cause the result was choppy unpredictable waves hitting me from behind It meant constant course correction and bracing plus getting wet as the whitecaps rolled over my sprayskirt I decided to head towards the northwest shoreline in the hopes of better conditions on the other side of the inlet

I did a shoulder check for traffic before turning and saw just one sailboat in the distance closer to McCallrsquos Landing as I slowly headed to the west shore the conditions became more stable allowing me to pull out a kayak sail By this point the sailboat and I were neck and neck and the sailors watched me suspiciously as I kept their pace after a few minutes the wind died and Jervis Inlet became dead calm marooning the sailboat I paddled over and offered a tow which

they gratefully declinedldquoany idea when slack is at Malibu

Rapidsrdquo the captain askedldquono I never checked Irsquom just winging

itrdquo I replied surprised that he was doing the same My reasoning is the time of slack was irrelevant ndash Irsquod only get there when I got there so there was no sense in planning That and I forgot to check

ldquoItrsquos usually 15 minutes after the Saltery Bay high tiderdquo the captain said ldquoso I figure itrsquos 545rdquo

a major turn in Jervis Inlet is at Saumarez Bluff (left) Vancouver Bay and

Marlborough Peak are in the background

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

u

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

I thanked the captain for the information then paddled away to leave them to their drifting Then I did the math It was 3 pm and I was 18 kilometres away So I either had to hurry to make slack or get there late and do a lengthy portage

The timing it turned out suddenly mattered a great deal

I decided to race to make the slack The water was dead calm now not so much as a ripple so there was no excuse for anything but a perfect paddle stroke I set in at a pace just a hair over 6 kilometres an hour determined to keep it up for three more hours fueled entirely by occasional handfuls

Princess Louisa

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

of peanuts raisins and SmartiesAfter some patience trying

unsuccessfully to find a breeze the sailboat gave up and motored into Queens Reach first well behind me then passing wide to avoid kelp to finally cross into Malibu Rapids ahead in the distance at exactly 545 pm Meanwhile I still had the best part of two kilometres to go One more handful of trail mix and I doubled my efforts

Ahead Club Malibu came into focus the Christian youth camp set on the banks of the rapids Capped by Mount Helena it appeared like some latter-day Utopia with a touch of Tolkienrsquos Rivendell thrown in for good measure It grew gradually in stature until I came alongside and entered the rapids just as the first ripples of adverse current were snaking their way out of the passage I pushed through with no trouble but only by a hair The time was 557 pm 12 minutes after the turn

The passage meandered forward and

I came out into Princess Louisa Inlet ndash a narrow twisting passage hemmed in on all sides by massive mountains graced with punishing cliffsides and a myriad of cascading waterfalls

This was the paradise I had paddled 60 kilometres today to see

PRINCeSS LOUISA INLeT has been a perennial cruising destination

its appeal made famous in part by the book The Curve of Time the endearing memoirs of a mother who cruised the British Columbia coast in a small boat with her two young children back in the late 1920s and early 1930s Part travelogue and part adventure it captures the era of Desolation Sound and the coast of British Columbia in the days when there were only travellers no tourists Author Wylie Blanchetrsquos touching insights and descriptions help keep the book a regular bestseller here in BC and many a traveller

has reached this location based on Wyliersquos inspirational writing revisiting many of her favourite locations while re-reading the book

Though now well known among the cruising world the inlet remains offbeat as a kayaking destination Back in 2005 as part of a publishing industry breakfast in Vancouver I was talking with a fellow author who had put together a book of anecdotes compiled from newspaper columns about kayaking trips I saw a section about Princess Louisa Inlet and asked him how he found paddling it

ldquoNo I took a boat up then kayaked You couldnrsquot kayak there Itrsquos impossiblerdquo he said

And so the gauntlet was laidI first completed the trip back in 2006

but in very different circumstances The world was grey wet and overcast for that trip and so I enjoyed the waterfalls but not the full splendour of the inlet thanks to

Background Princess Louisa Inlet and the view toward Chatterbox Falls shown more closely above Top left on the end of a portage

through Club Malibu at Malibu Rapids on the return journey a homeward-bound campsite on Princess Royal Reach and one of the

numerous waterfalls to be seen in Princess Louisa Inlet

Princess Louisa

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the cloud cover It was also much earlier in the year so instead of inflow and outflow winds to worry about I had a constant outflow current to battle The trip up took two full days the trip back just one

On this trip my window was sunny and warm so I had a strong suspicion inflows would be powerful And they were ndash for about an hour But the spring runoff was long gone so the travel was smooth enough and the blessing was a rare unimpeded view of the surrounding mountains once I arrived

I often coach contributors to CoastampKayak Magazine to express the beauty of a region through description rather than adjectives Princess Louisa however remains outside the realm of fitting description except for perhaps this Irsquove travelled almost all the BC coast now and if I was to become jaded by mountainous landscapes that time would have arrived and long since passed Yet when I turned the final corner to face Chatterbox Falls and its surrounding splendour even for the second time I found myself stunned to immobility Paddling had to wait there was nothing to be done but soak in the landscape and appreciate the steep chiselled rock faces crashing kilometres from summit to sea the uncountable ribbons of waterfalls and central to it all massive Chatterbox Falls pounding directly into the head of the inlet

Yes Princess Louisa Inlet can be kayaked It wonrsquot be easy but few things worthwhile are

nThis trip to Princess Louisa Inlet took

place over eight days with a launch from the CoastampKayak Magazine office (the MV Rainy Day) and back to Parksville a 450-km route involving circumnavigations of Lasqueti Texada and a dip into Sechelt Inlet through Skookumchuck Narrows (shown on the cover though on this journey it was passed nearer slack) The distance was made possible by close attention to winds and was the inspiration for the lsquoLearning to deal with windrsquo article on page 32

Princess Louisa inlet

Chatterbox Falls

Malibu Rapids

Patricia Pt

Princess Royal Reach

Prince of Wales Reach

VancouverBay

Hothamsound

McMurrayBay

FairviewBay

MoorsamBluff

saumarezBluff

McCallrsquosLanding

QueensReach

JeRVis inLet

goliathBay

HarmonyFall

Inside Princess Louisa Inlet on the final turn before the

view of Chatterbox Falls

Princess Louisa Inlet

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Lund BC | 604-483-7900 | 888-552-5558wwwterracentricadventurescom

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportInstruction amp Leadership Programs

Maps Charts amp BooksCentral waterfront location amp launch site

Discover the Power in your Nature

Howe sound

Jervisinlet

skookumchuck

Powell R

sechelt

Lund

Princess Louisa inletDesolation

sound

Discoveryislands

Vancouvernanaimo

Comox

Princess Louisa Inlet is best suited for expert paddlers though water taxis from Egmont Pender Harbour Sechelt Powell River or Lund can reduce the length and difficulty of getting there Two campsites are located in Princess Louisa Inlet Provincial Park ndash one at Chatterbox Falls at the head of the inlet and one 2 km farther down Another amenity is a dock for visiting boaters Tours are available either by relaxed luxury mini-cruiseships or faster Zodiacs Princess Louisa is reached through Jervis Inlet which is the gateway to Desolation Sound and separated from Sechelt Inlet by the famed Skookumchuck Narrows (cover photo) Thus Princess Louisa and Jervis Inlet lend themselves to expedition-length explorations of the wider region and several weeks would only scratch the surface

If you go

Rounding Patricia Point on the way to Princess Royal

Reach on the return journey

Princess Louisa Inlet

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

ldquoMy chief fantasy is that one day the absentee owners (of Little DrsquoArcy Island) will come along and tell me that since I am Little DrsquoArcyrsquos strongest supporter I can live there for the rest of my life for a dollar a year Or perhaps I shall do some service for my country so that Ottawa will offer me my dearest wish Then I will build a log house with lots of glass windows and a stone fireplace and roam the island with my cougar companions Dreamsrdquo

ndash Excerpts from Affair with a Cougar 1978

Tom who wouldnrsquot move unless I followed lay down and rested his head on mine Though small in relation to the rest of his body it was too heavy for my comfort so I shifted it gently Content he sprawled out on his side placed his forepaws on my neck and went to sleep purring With an island of onersquos own such moments could last forever Tom had given me his complete trust and confidence and it was a responsibility I did not take lightly

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

Town of Sidney via Sidney Spit on Sidney Island to the shoals and islets around Little DrsquoArcy The second day would be spent on DrsquoArcy Island with a hike of its cross-island trails then back to Vancouver Island at Island View Beach

No cougars and raccoons aboard this time (though I did want to take my house cat) I invited my paddling buddy Amir a newcomer to Vancouver Island waters and its wildlife

Our first stop was the mile-long sand bar of Sidney Spit Marine Park with its upright log pilings ndash handy signposts that look like totem poles from afar but are really logs driven into the sand to prevent erosion The sheltered sand and grass-edged lagoon with its kayak-friendly beaches were surprisingly deserted this holiday weekend Odd given the abundance of birds ndash murrelets auklets oyster catchers sandpipers great blue herons ndash the clear blue skies and the warm summer sun A change from my customary paddles on the outer coast

eagles swooped down from the steep dry clay cliffs of Sidney Island to pluck unlucky gulls out of a smooth silky sea One determined eagle dived repeatedly with outstretched talons to grab a gull who just as determinedly dipped and dived to

get away Finally the eagle gave up pursuit and returned to its perch on a tree I remembered the fortnightly flights on a float plane to study eagle nests on Sidney Island when most of it was owned by a single man Now there are several private residences on this island a fact we were told in no uncertain terms by one resident while having a quick lunch below the high tide line at the end of the island

The shoals and reefs rocks and islets that surround the DrsquoArcys are replete with wildlife Nesting gulls and cormorants thronged the whitewashed shorelines Sleek seals balanced themselves atop offshore rocks like acrobats Pairs of auklets and murrelets popped up and down in the water like corks A black oystercatcher poked and pried its long red beak around

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

I wrote that fantasy about Little DrsquoArcy Island in the 1978 book Love Affair with a Cougar but neither

scenario came to be instead Big DrsquoArcy Island became a provincial park in 1967 then part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003

In 1985 Phil Middleton bought Little DrsquoArcy Island and built his own dream house above concrete cells left over from the old leper colony Thatrsquos part of a dark chapter in British Columbiarsquos history when Chinese lepers were banished here to a life of solitude between 1890 and 1924

Nine years after moving there Phil read of my passion for Little DrsquoArcy Island and spent a year trying to track me down When he found me in the Northwest Territories he invited me to revisit Little DrsquoArcy and less than a week later I flew south to Sidney and met him We shared our passion for this magic Shangri-la and I was able to revisit bygone days spent here roaming freely with cougars (yes cougars) and releasing orphaned raccoons

One dream remained ndash to return here by kayak instead of the faster rubber dinghy I had used in the past That chance came in August 2012 The plan was a leisurely circle route arriving from the

Top left previous page Lyn Hancock has a nap with Tom back in the late 1960s when it was possible to snuggle with a cougar on DrsquoArcy Island Above Lyn the raccoon whisperer making friends with possible descendants of the raccoons she released in her days as co-owner of Island View Beach Conservation Centre Bottom left normally two cougars in your camp might be a cause for concern but for Lyn it was camping as usual

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

kayakutopia

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Comox Valley Kayakson Vancouver Island

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Check out our FLEET SALE

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

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Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

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othership Adventure

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Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

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BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

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Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Spring 2010 WaveLength Magazine 3

PROOFSTours British Columbia

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

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T h e B a h a m a s

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Kayak with us in a warm-water paradiseBook your winter getaway now

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Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

Just 45 minutes from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

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0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

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36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

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Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

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rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

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CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

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Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

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Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

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Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

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Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

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Follow Waversquos progress live at

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right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

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100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 7

News

bull C l o t h i n g bull F o o t w e a r bull o u t d o o r g e a r bull K ay a K s bull C a n o e s bull i n s t r u C t i o n bull r e n t a l s bull g u i d e d t o u r s bull o n l i n e s a l e s bull

1824 s t ore s treet V i C t or ia BC V8t 4r4

250bull381bull4 233 wwwoceanrivercom

ldquoGe t t i ng You Ou t The re S i n c e 1981rdquo

i t rsquo s o f f i c i a l w e rsquo v e b e e n v o t e d

the bestk a y a k s t o r e i n c a n a d a amp k aya k s c h o o l i n w e s t e r n c a n a d a

i am extremely

proud to reCeiVe

this honour

Brian henryowner

by land and sea a description of the launch on-site amenities nearby services a GPS reading and photos Possible day tours departing from the launch site are suggested All the sites are located on an on-line map A short introduction to paddling on the north shore will provide some background for people less familiar with this coast u wwwtrailsgovnsca

nationaL PaRks u Land addedThe Gulf Islands National Park Reserve

is now 100 hectares larger and less of a patchwork thanks to new parcels added in a $63 million land purchase in mid October

The new properties are two extensions to the Roesland property on west North Pender Island Maple Bay on southeast Prevost Island (a small bay immediately south of Richardson Bay and the old lighthouse) and a parcel atop Brown Ridge on Saturna Island that brings closer the gap between the central properties on Saturna Island and the Narvaez Bay campsite

The new properties will eventually lead to new trails day use areas and campsites

aCCess RestoReD u kitimatAlcan has re-opened public entry to the

Kitimat waterfront after the corporation cut off the communityrsquos access to the ocean

The Hospital Beach waterfront park and boat ramp were closed by the company due to safety concerns posed by passing trucks After backlash over the summer Alcan relented and has rerouted heavy rock-hauling trucks by building a new bridge

over Anderson Creek new traffic lights at Construction Village and an extra road from the former Eurocan Haul Road

The closure had made kayak trips out of Kitimat difficult despite it being one of just three oceanfront communities along British Columbiarsquos north and central coast The other communities are Bella Coola and Prince Rupert Kitimat is a key gateway to spirit bear habitat near Princess Royal Island

Kayakers land at Arisaig Beach near Cape George Nova Scotia part of the new marine trail

Shee

na M

asso

n ph

oto

News

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

ThE PLan was to make use of the afternoon inflow wind to head up the long central leg of Jervis Inlet

I left the campsite at Fairview Bay in the lower portion of Jervis Inlet near dawn and paddled in calm water through Prince of Wales Reach to finally get a bit of a tailwind once past Vancouver Bay

It didnrsquot last as I rounded Moorsam Bluff I could see the small whitecaps disappear eastward into the distance of the valley behind McCallrsquos Landing ahead of me to the north along Princess Royal Reach lay only flat water I find wind usually likes to follow the waterways here for some reason it was determined to head inland leaving the water ahead in calm

Looking up at the rock face of Moorsam Bluff I was reminded of the several dozen petroglyphs documented along Jervis Inlet so I decided to make the most of the calm and tuck in close to

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

shore for a look I saw either hundreds of petroglyphs or none as all the rock faces were etched and coloured in intricate designs Whether natural or manmade it made no difference as the artistic appeal was there either way I glided toward two prospective beaches only to watch them come into focus as boulder endcaps to old log dumps so therersquod be no stopping along this stretch

at Glacial Creek near a fish farm a gust of wind returned and in an impressively short period of time I was being hit by a hard tailwind kicking up sizeable wind waves I had hoped to get a push but not this kind It may have been rebound waves from the steep shoreline but whatever the cause the result was choppy unpredictable waves hitting me from behind It meant constant course correction and bracing plus getting wet as the whitecaps rolled over my sprayskirt I decided to head towards the northwest shoreline in the hopes of better conditions on the other side of the inlet

I did a shoulder check for traffic before turning and saw just one sailboat in the distance closer to McCallrsquos Landing as I slowly headed to the west shore the conditions became more stable allowing me to pull out a kayak sail By this point the sailboat and I were neck and neck and the sailors watched me suspiciously as I kept their pace after a few minutes the wind died and Jervis Inlet became dead calm marooning the sailboat I paddled over and offered a tow which

they gratefully declinedldquoany idea when slack is at Malibu

Rapidsrdquo the captain askedldquono I never checked Irsquom just winging

itrdquo I replied surprised that he was doing the same My reasoning is the time of slack was irrelevant ndash Irsquod only get there when I got there so there was no sense in planning That and I forgot to check

ldquoItrsquos usually 15 minutes after the Saltery Bay high tiderdquo the captain said ldquoso I figure itrsquos 545rdquo

a major turn in Jervis Inlet is at Saumarez Bluff (left) Vancouver Bay and

Marlborough Peak are in the background

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

u

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

I thanked the captain for the information then paddled away to leave them to their drifting Then I did the math It was 3 pm and I was 18 kilometres away So I either had to hurry to make slack or get there late and do a lengthy portage

The timing it turned out suddenly mattered a great deal

I decided to race to make the slack The water was dead calm now not so much as a ripple so there was no excuse for anything but a perfect paddle stroke I set in at a pace just a hair over 6 kilometres an hour determined to keep it up for three more hours fueled entirely by occasional handfuls

Princess Louisa

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

of peanuts raisins and SmartiesAfter some patience trying

unsuccessfully to find a breeze the sailboat gave up and motored into Queens Reach first well behind me then passing wide to avoid kelp to finally cross into Malibu Rapids ahead in the distance at exactly 545 pm Meanwhile I still had the best part of two kilometres to go One more handful of trail mix and I doubled my efforts

Ahead Club Malibu came into focus the Christian youth camp set on the banks of the rapids Capped by Mount Helena it appeared like some latter-day Utopia with a touch of Tolkienrsquos Rivendell thrown in for good measure It grew gradually in stature until I came alongside and entered the rapids just as the first ripples of adverse current were snaking their way out of the passage I pushed through with no trouble but only by a hair The time was 557 pm 12 minutes after the turn

The passage meandered forward and

I came out into Princess Louisa Inlet ndash a narrow twisting passage hemmed in on all sides by massive mountains graced with punishing cliffsides and a myriad of cascading waterfalls

This was the paradise I had paddled 60 kilometres today to see

PRINCeSS LOUISA INLeT has been a perennial cruising destination

its appeal made famous in part by the book The Curve of Time the endearing memoirs of a mother who cruised the British Columbia coast in a small boat with her two young children back in the late 1920s and early 1930s Part travelogue and part adventure it captures the era of Desolation Sound and the coast of British Columbia in the days when there were only travellers no tourists Author Wylie Blanchetrsquos touching insights and descriptions help keep the book a regular bestseller here in BC and many a traveller

has reached this location based on Wyliersquos inspirational writing revisiting many of her favourite locations while re-reading the book

Though now well known among the cruising world the inlet remains offbeat as a kayaking destination Back in 2005 as part of a publishing industry breakfast in Vancouver I was talking with a fellow author who had put together a book of anecdotes compiled from newspaper columns about kayaking trips I saw a section about Princess Louisa Inlet and asked him how he found paddling it

ldquoNo I took a boat up then kayaked You couldnrsquot kayak there Itrsquos impossiblerdquo he said

And so the gauntlet was laidI first completed the trip back in 2006

but in very different circumstances The world was grey wet and overcast for that trip and so I enjoyed the waterfalls but not the full splendour of the inlet thanks to

Background Princess Louisa Inlet and the view toward Chatterbox Falls shown more closely above Top left on the end of a portage

through Club Malibu at Malibu Rapids on the return journey a homeward-bound campsite on Princess Royal Reach and one of the

numerous waterfalls to be seen in Princess Louisa Inlet

Princess Louisa

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the cloud cover It was also much earlier in the year so instead of inflow and outflow winds to worry about I had a constant outflow current to battle The trip up took two full days the trip back just one

On this trip my window was sunny and warm so I had a strong suspicion inflows would be powerful And they were ndash for about an hour But the spring runoff was long gone so the travel was smooth enough and the blessing was a rare unimpeded view of the surrounding mountains once I arrived

I often coach contributors to CoastampKayak Magazine to express the beauty of a region through description rather than adjectives Princess Louisa however remains outside the realm of fitting description except for perhaps this Irsquove travelled almost all the BC coast now and if I was to become jaded by mountainous landscapes that time would have arrived and long since passed Yet when I turned the final corner to face Chatterbox Falls and its surrounding splendour even for the second time I found myself stunned to immobility Paddling had to wait there was nothing to be done but soak in the landscape and appreciate the steep chiselled rock faces crashing kilometres from summit to sea the uncountable ribbons of waterfalls and central to it all massive Chatterbox Falls pounding directly into the head of the inlet

Yes Princess Louisa Inlet can be kayaked It wonrsquot be easy but few things worthwhile are

nThis trip to Princess Louisa Inlet took

place over eight days with a launch from the CoastampKayak Magazine office (the MV Rainy Day) and back to Parksville a 450-km route involving circumnavigations of Lasqueti Texada and a dip into Sechelt Inlet through Skookumchuck Narrows (shown on the cover though on this journey it was passed nearer slack) The distance was made possible by close attention to winds and was the inspiration for the lsquoLearning to deal with windrsquo article on page 32

Princess Louisa inlet

Chatterbox Falls

Malibu Rapids

Patricia Pt

Princess Royal Reach

Prince of Wales Reach

VancouverBay

Hothamsound

McMurrayBay

FairviewBay

MoorsamBluff

saumarezBluff

McCallrsquosLanding

QueensReach

JeRVis inLet

goliathBay

HarmonyFall

Inside Princess Louisa Inlet on the final turn before the

view of Chatterbox Falls

Princess Louisa Inlet

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Lund BC | 604-483-7900 | 888-552-5558wwwterracentricadventurescom

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportInstruction amp Leadership Programs

Maps Charts amp BooksCentral waterfront location amp launch site

Discover the Power in your Nature

Howe sound

Jervisinlet

skookumchuck

Powell R

sechelt

Lund

Princess Louisa inletDesolation

sound

Discoveryislands

Vancouvernanaimo

Comox

Princess Louisa Inlet is best suited for expert paddlers though water taxis from Egmont Pender Harbour Sechelt Powell River or Lund can reduce the length and difficulty of getting there Two campsites are located in Princess Louisa Inlet Provincial Park ndash one at Chatterbox Falls at the head of the inlet and one 2 km farther down Another amenity is a dock for visiting boaters Tours are available either by relaxed luxury mini-cruiseships or faster Zodiacs Princess Louisa is reached through Jervis Inlet which is the gateway to Desolation Sound and separated from Sechelt Inlet by the famed Skookumchuck Narrows (cover photo) Thus Princess Louisa and Jervis Inlet lend themselves to expedition-length explorations of the wider region and several weeks would only scratch the surface

If you go

Rounding Patricia Point on the way to Princess Royal

Reach on the return journey

Princess Louisa Inlet

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

ldquoMy chief fantasy is that one day the absentee owners (of Little DrsquoArcy Island) will come along and tell me that since I am Little DrsquoArcyrsquos strongest supporter I can live there for the rest of my life for a dollar a year Or perhaps I shall do some service for my country so that Ottawa will offer me my dearest wish Then I will build a log house with lots of glass windows and a stone fireplace and roam the island with my cougar companions Dreamsrdquo

ndash Excerpts from Affair with a Cougar 1978

Tom who wouldnrsquot move unless I followed lay down and rested his head on mine Though small in relation to the rest of his body it was too heavy for my comfort so I shifted it gently Content he sprawled out on his side placed his forepaws on my neck and went to sleep purring With an island of onersquos own such moments could last forever Tom had given me his complete trust and confidence and it was a responsibility I did not take lightly

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

Town of Sidney via Sidney Spit on Sidney Island to the shoals and islets around Little DrsquoArcy The second day would be spent on DrsquoArcy Island with a hike of its cross-island trails then back to Vancouver Island at Island View Beach

No cougars and raccoons aboard this time (though I did want to take my house cat) I invited my paddling buddy Amir a newcomer to Vancouver Island waters and its wildlife

Our first stop was the mile-long sand bar of Sidney Spit Marine Park with its upright log pilings ndash handy signposts that look like totem poles from afar but are really logs driven into the sand to prevent erosion The sheltered sand and grass-edged lagoon with its kayak-friendly beaches were surprisingly deserted this holiday weekend Odd given the abundance of birds ndash murrelets auklets oyster catchers sandpipers great blue herons ndash the clear blue skies and the warm summer sun A change from my customary paddles on the outer coast

eagles swooped down from the steep dry clay cliffs of Sidney Island to pluck unlucky gulls out of a smooth silky sea One determined eagle dived repeatedly with outstretched talons to grab a gull who just as determinedly dipped and dived to

get away Finally the eagle gave up pursuit and returned to its perch on a tree I remembered the fortnightly flights on a float plane to study eagle nests on Sidney Island when most of it was owned by a single man Now there are several private residences on this island a fact we were told in no uncertain terms by one resident while having a quick lunch below the high tide line at the end of the island

The shoals and reefs rocks and islets that surround the DrsquoArcys are replete with wildlife Nesting gulls and cormorants thronged the whitewashed shorelines Sleek seals balanced themselves atop offshore rocks like acrobats Pairs of auklets and murrelets popped up and down in the water like corks A black oystercatcher poked and pried its long red beak around

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

I wrote that fantasy about Little DrsquoArcy Island in the 1978 book Love Affair with a Cougar but neither

scenario came to be instead Big DrsquoArcy Island became a provincial park in 1967 then part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003

In 1985 Phil Middleton bought Little DrsquoArcy Island and built his own dream house above concrete cells left over from the old leper colony Thatrsquos part of a dark chapter in British Columbiarsquos history when Chinese lepers were banished here to a life of solitude between 1890 and 1924

Nine years after moving there Phil read of my passion for Little DrsquoArcy Island and spent a year trying to track me down When he found me in the Northwest Territories he invited me to revisit Little DrsquoArcy and less than a week later I flew south to Sidney and met him We shared our passion for this magic Shangri-la and I was able to revisit bygone days spent here roaming freely with cougars (yes cougars) and releasing orphaned raccoons

One dream remained ndash to return here by kayak instead of the faster rubber dinghy I had used in the past That chance came in August 2012 The plan was a leisurely circle route arriving from the

Top left previous page Lyn Hancock has a nap with Tom back in the late 1960s when it was possible to snuggle with a cougar on DrsquoArcy Island Above Lyn the raccoon whisperer making friends with possible descendants of the raccoons she released in her days as co-owner of Island View Beach Conservation Centre Bottom left normally two cougars in your camp might be a cause for concern but for Lyn it was camping as usual

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

kayakutopia

Sales -Rentals - Instruction - Day Tours - Info Station

com

Comox Valley Kayakson Vancouver Island

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maybe itrsquos time for a new kayak

Check out our FLEET SALE

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

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Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

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BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Spring 2010 WaveLength Magazine 3

PROOFSTours British Columbia

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

T h e B a h a m a s

1 8 0 0 3 0 7 3 9 8 2

Kayak with us in a warm-water paradiseBook your winter getaway now

www k a y a k i n g t o u r s c om

Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

Just 45 minutes from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Kayak Galiano Islandbull Daily Guided Toursamp Rentals since 1985bull 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry Pick-Upbull Open All Year

Join us in Costa Rica Weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets

Expeditions

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear

163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide CoursesTwo Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

Lessons amp Rentals

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

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Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

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Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

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Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

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durability affordability

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36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

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CreDit CarD paymeNt

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expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

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More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

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8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

ThE PLan was to make use of the afternoon inflow wind to head up the long central leg of Jervis Inlet

I left the campsite at Fairview Bay in the lower portion of Jervis Inlet near dawn and paddled in calm water through Prince of Wales Reach to finally get a bit of a tailwind once past Vancouver Bay

It didnrsquot last as I rounded Moorsam Bluff I could see the small whitecaps disappear eastward into the distance of the valley behind McCallrsquos Landing ahead of me to the north along Princess Royal Reach lay only flat water I find wind usually likes to follow the waterways here for some reason it was determined to head inland leaving the water ahead in calm

Looking up at the rock face of Moorsam Bluff I was reminded of the several dozen petroglyphs documented along Jervis Inlet so I decided to make the most of the calm and tuck in close to

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Chasing a Princess

shore for a look I saw either hundreds of petroglyphs or none as all the rock faces were etched and coloured in intricate designs Whether natural or manmade it made no difference as the artistic appeal was there either way I glided toward two prospective beaches only to watch them come into focus as boulder endcaps to old log dumps so therersquod be no stopping along this stretch

at Glacial Creek near a fish farm a gust of wind returned and in an impressively short period of time I was being hit by a hard tailwind kicking up sizeable wind waves I had hoped to get a push but not this kind It may have been rebound waves from the steep shoreline but whatever the cause the result was choppy unpredictable waves hitting me from behind It meant constant course correction and bracing plus getting wet as the whitecaps rolled over my sprayskirt I decided to head towards the northwest shoreline in the hopes of better conditions on the other side of the inlet

I did a shoulder check for traffic before turning and saw just one sailboat in the distance closer to McCallrsquos Landing as I slowly headed to the west shore the conditions became more stable allowing me to pull out a kayak sail By this point the sailboat and I were neck and neck and the sailors watched me suspiciously as I kept their pace after a few minutes the wind died and Jervis Inlet became dead calm marooning the sailboat I paddled over and offered a tow which

they gratefully declinedldquoany idea when slack is at Malibu

Rapidsrdquo the captain askedldquono I never checked Irsquom just winging

itrdquo I replied surprised that he was doing the same My reasoning is the time of slack was irrelevant ndash Irsquod only get there when I got there so there was no sense in planning That and I forgot to check

ldquoItrsquos usually 15 minutes after the Saltery Bay high tiderdquo the captain said ldquoso I figure itrsquos 545rdquo

a major turn in Jervis Inlet is at Saumarez Bluff (left) Vancouver Bay and

Marlborough Peak are in the background

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

u

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

I thanked the captain for the information then paddled away to leave them to their drifting Then I did the math It was 3 pm and I was 18 kilometres away So I either had to hurry to make slack or get there late and do a lengthy portage

The timing it turned out suddenly mattered a great deal

I decided to race to make the slack The water was dead calm now not so much as a ripple so there was no excuse for anything but a perfect paddle stroke I set in at a pace just a hair over 6 kilometres an hour determined to keep it up for three more hours fueled entirely by occasional handfuls

Princess Louisa

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

of peanuts raisins and SmartiesAfter some patience trying

unsuccessfully to find a breeze the sailboat gave up and motored into Queens Reach first well behind me then passing wide to avoid kelp to finally cross into Malibu Rapids ahead in the distance at exactly 545 pm Meanwhile I still had the best part of two kilometres to go One more handful of trail mix and I doubled my efforts

Ahead Club Malibu came into focus the Christian youth camp set on the banks of the rapids Capped by Mount Helena it appeared like some latter-day Utopia with a touch of Tolkienrsquos Rivendell thrown in for good measure It grew gradually in stature until I came alongside and entered the rapids just as the first ripples of adverse current were snaking their way out of the passage I pushed through with no trouble but only by a hair The time was 557 pm 12 minutes after the turn

The passage meandered forward and

I came out into Princess Louisa Inlet ndash a narrow twisting passage hemmed in on all sides by massive mountains graced with punishing cliffsides and a myriad of cascading waterfalls

This was the paradise I had paddled 60 kilometres today to see

PRINCeSS LOUISA INLeT has been a perennial cruising destination

its appeal made famous in part by the book The Curve of Time the endearing memoirs of a mother who cruised the British Columbia coast in a small boat with her two young children back in the late 1920s and early 1930s Part travelogue and part adventure it captures the era of Desolation Sound and the coast of British Columbia in the days when there were only travellers no tourists Author Wylie Blanchetrsquos touching insights and descriptions help keep the book a regular bestseller here in BC and many a traveller

has reached this location based on Wyliersquos inspirational writing revisiting many of her favourite locations while re-reading the book

Though now well known among the cruising world the inlet remains offbeat as a kayaking destination Back in 2005 as part of a publishing industry breakfast in Vancouver I was talking with a fellow author who had put together a book of anecdotes compiled from newspaper columns about kayaking trips I saw a section about Princess Louisa Inlet and asked him how he found paddling it

ldquoNo I took a boat up then kayaked You couldnrsquot kayak there Itrsquos impossiblerdquo he said

And so the gauntlet was laidI first completed the trip back in 2006

but in very different circumstances The world was grey wet and overcast for that trip and so I enjoyed the waterfalls but not the full splendour of the inlet thanks to

Background Princess Louisa Inlet and the view toward Chatterbox Falls shown more closely above Top left on the end of a portage

through Club Malibu at Malibu Rapids on the return journey a homeward-bound campsite on Princess Royal Reach and one of the

numerous waterfalls to be seen in Princess Louisa Inlet

Princess Louisa

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the cloud cover It was also much earlier in the year so instead of inflow and outflow winds to worry about I had a constant outflow current to battle The trip up took two full days the trip back just one

On this trip my window was sunny and warm so I had a strong suspicion inflows would be powerful And they were ndash for about an hour But the spring runoff was long gone so the travel was smooth enough and the blessing was a rare unimpeded view of the surrounding mountains once I arrived

I often coach contributors to CoastampKayak Magazine to express the beauty of a region through description rather than adjectives Princess Louisa however remains outside the realm of fitting description except for perhaps this Irsquove travelled almost all the BC coast now and if I was to become jaded by mountainous landscapes that time would have arrived and long since passed Yet when I turned the final corner to face Chatterbox Falls and its surrounding splendour even for the second time I found myself stunned to immobility Paddling had to wait there was nothing to be done but soak in the landscape and appreciate the steep chiselled rock faces crashing kilometres from summit to sea the uncountable ribbons of waterfalls and central to it all massive Chatterbox Falls pounding directly into the head of the inlet

Yes Princess Louisa Inlet can be kayaked It wonrsquot be easy but few things worthwhile are

nThis trip to Princess Louisa Inlet took

place over eight days with a launch from the CoastampKayak Magazine office (the MV Rainy Day) and back to Parksville a 450-km route involving circumnavigations of Lasqueti Texada and a dip into Sechelt Inlet through Skookumchuck Narrows (shown on the cover though on this journey it was passed nearer slack) The distance was made possible by close attention to winds and was the inspiration for the lsquoLearning to deal with windrsquo article on page 32

Princess Louisa inlet

Chatterbox Falls

Malibu Rapids

Patricia Pt

Princess Royal Reach

Prince of Wales Reach

VancouverBay

Hothamsound

McMurrayBay

FairviewBay

MoorsamBluff

saumarezBluff

McCallrsquosLanding

QueensReach

JeRVis inLet

goliathBay

HarmonyFall

Inside Princess Louisa Inlet on the final turn before the

view of Chatterbox Falls

Princess Louisa Inlet

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Lund BC | 604-483-7900 | 888-552-5558wwwterracentricadventurescom

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportInstruction amp Leadership Programs

Maps Charts amp BooksCentral waterfront location amp launch site

Discover the Power in your Nature

Howe sound

Jervisinlet

skookumchuck

Powell R

sechelt

Lund

Princess Louisa inletDesolation

sound

Discoveryislands

Vancouvernanaimo

Comox

Princess Louisa Inlet is best suited for expert paddlers though water taxis from Egmont Pender Harbour Sechelt Powell River or Lund can reduce the length and difficulty of getting there Two campsites are located in Princess Louisa Inlet Provincial Park ndash one at Chatterbox Falls at the head of the inlet and one 2 km farther down Another amenity is a dock for visiting boaters Tours are available either by relaxed luxury mini-cruiseships or faster Zodiacs Princess Louisa is reached through Jervis Inlet which is the gateway to Desolation Sound and separated from Sechelt Inlet by the famed Skookumchuck Narrows (cover photo) Thus Princess Louisa and Jervis Inlet lend themselves to expedition-length explorations of the wider region and several weeks would only scratch the surface

If you go

Rounding Patricia Point on the way to Princess Royal

Reach on the return journey

Princess Louisa Inlet

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

ldquoMy chief fantasy is that one day the absentee owners (of Little DrsquoArcy Island) will come along and tell me that since I am Little DrsquoArcyrsquos strongest supporter I can live there for the rest of my life for a dollar a year Or perhaps I shall do some service for my country so that Ottawa will offer me my dearest wish Then I will build a log house with lots of glass windows and a stone fireplace and roam the island with my cougar companions Dreamsrdquo

ndash Excerpts from Affair with a Cougar 1978

Tom who wouldnrsquot move unless I followed lay down and rested his head on mine Though small in relation to the rest of his body it was too heavy for my comfort so I shifted it gently Content he sprawled out on his side placed his forepaws on my neck and went to sleep purring With an island of onersquos own such moments could last forever Tom had given me his complete trust and confidence and it was a responsibility I did not take lightly

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

Town of Sidney via Sidney Spit on Sidney Island to the shoals and islets around Little DrsquoArcy The second day would be spent on DrsquoArcy Island with a hike of its cross-island trails then back to Vancouver Island at Island View Beach

No cougars and raccoons aboard this time (though I did want to take my house cat) I invited my paddling buddy Amir a newcomer to Vancouver Island waters and its wildlife

Our first stop was the mile-long sand bar of Sidney Spit Marine Park with its upright log pilings ndash handy signposts that look like totem poles from afar but are really logs driven into the sand to prevent erosion The sheltered sand and grass-edged lagoon with its kayak-friendly beaches were surprisingly deserted this holiday weekend Odd given the abundance of birds ndash murrelets auklets oyster catchers sandpipers great blue herons ndash the clear blue skies and the warm summer sun A change from my customary paddles on the outer coast

eagles swooped down from the steep dry clay cliffs of Sidney Island to pluck unlucky gulls out of a smooth silky sea One determined eagle dived repeatedly with outstretched talons to grab a gull who just as determinedly dipped and dived to

get away Finally the eagle gave up pursuit and returned to its perch on a tree I remembered the fortnightly flights on a float plane to study eagle nests on Sidney Island when most of it was owned by a single man Now there are several private residences on this island a fact we were told in no uncertain terms by one resident while having a quick lunch below the high tide line at the end of the island

The shoals and reefs rocks and islets that surround the DrsquoArcys are replete with wildlife Nesting gulls and cormorants thronged the whitewashed shorelines Sleek seals balanced themselves atop offshore rocks like acrobats Pairs of auklets and murrelets popped up and down in the water like corks A black oystercatcher poked and pried its long red beak around

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

I wrote that fantasy about Little DrsquoArcy Island in the 1978 book Love Affair with a Cougar but neither

scenario came to be instead Big DrsquoArcy Island became a provincial park in 1967 then part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003

In 1985 Phil Middleton bought Little DrsquoArcy Island and built his own dream house above concrete cells left over from the old leper colony Thatrsquos part of a dark chapter in British Columbiarsquos history when Chinese lepers were banished here to a life of solitude between 1890 and 1924

Nine years after moving there Phil read of my passion for Little DrsquoArcy Island and spent a year trying to track me down When he found me in the Northwest Territories he invited me to revisit Little DrsquoArcy and less than a week later I flew south to Sidney and met him We shared our passion for this magic Shangri-la and I was able to revisit bygone days spent here roaming freely with cougars (yes cougars) and releasing orphaned raccoons

One dream remained ndash to return here by kayak instead of the faster rubber dinghy I had used in the past That chance came in August 2012 The plan was a leisurely circle route arriving from the

Top left previous page Lyn Hancock has a nap with Tom back in the late 1960s when it was possible to snuggle with a cougar on DrsquoArcy Island Above Lyn the raccoon whisperer making friends with possible descendants of the raccoons she released in her days as co-owner of Island View Beach Conservation Centre Bottom left normally two cougars in your camp might be a cause for concern but for Lyn it was camping as usual

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

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Sales -Rentals - Instruction - Day Tours - Info Station

com

Comox Valley Kayakson Vancouver Island

1-888-545-5595

maybe itrsquos time for a new kayak

Check out our FLEET SALE

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Spring 2010 WaveLength Magazine 3

PROOFSTours British Columbia

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

T h e B a h a m a s

1 8 0 0 3 0 7 3 9 8 2

Kayak with us in a warm-water paradiseBook your winter getaway now

www k a y a k i n g t o u r s c om

Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

Just 45 minutes from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Kayak Galiano Islandbull Daily Guided Toursamp Rentals since 1985bull 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry Pick-Upbull Open All Year

Join us in Costa Rica Weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets

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163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide CoursesTwo Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

Lessons amp Rentals

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

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A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

1-866-323-3525wwwautomarineca SINCE 1907

The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

Our boats are designed to travel by air land and sea

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

Danuu

wwwDANUUcomDanuu PaddleSport Accessories

ee

three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

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CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

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expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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TOTAL $_________

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TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

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VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

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Soul-Stirring Design

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100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

Chasing a Princess

shore for a look I saw either hundreds of petroglyphs or none as all the rock faces were etched and coloured in intricate designs Whether natural or manmade it made no difference as the artistic appeal was there either way I glided toward two prospective beaches only to watch them come into focus as boulder endcaps to old log dumps so therersquod be no stopping along this stretch

at Glacial Creek near a fish farm a gust of wind returned and in an impressively short period of time I was being hit by a hard tailwind kicking up sizeable wind waves I had hoped to get a push but not this kind It may have been rebound waves from the steep shoreline but whatever the cause the result was choppy unpredictable waves hitting me from behind It meant constant course correction and bracing plus getting wet as the whitecaps rolled over my sprayskirt I decided to head towards the northwest shoreline in the hopes of better conditions on the other side of the inlet

I did a shoulder check for traffic before turning and saw just one sailboat in the distance closer to McCallrsquos Landing as I slowly headed to the west shore the conditions became more stable allowing me to pull out a kayak sail By this point the sailboat and I were neck and neck and the sailors watched me suspiciously as I kept their pace after a few minutes the wind died and Jervis Inlet became dead calm marooning the sailboat I paddled over and offered a tow which

they gratefully declinedldquoany idea when slack is at Malibu

Rapidsrdquo the captain askedldquono I never checked Irsquom just winging

itrdquo I replied surprised that he was doing the same My reasoning is the time of slack was irrelevant ndash Irsquod only get there when I got there so there was no sense in planning That and I forgot to check

ldquoItrsquos usually 15 minutes after the Saltery Bay high tiderdquo the captain said ldquoso I figure itrsquos 545rdquo

a major turn in Jervis Inlet is at Saumarez Bluff (left) Vancouver Bay and

Marlborough Peak are in the background

Destinations DesolationDiscovery by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

u

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

I thanked the captain for the information then paddled away to leave them to their drifting Then I did the math It was 3 pm and I was 18 kilometres away So I either had to hurry to make slack or get there late and do a lengthy portage

The timing it turned out suddenly mattered a great deal

I decided to race to make the slack The water was dead calm now not so much as a ripple so there was no excuse for anything but a perfect paddle stroke I set in at a pace just a hair over 6 kilometres an hour determined to keep it up for three more hours fueled entirely by occasional handfuls

Princess Louisa

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

of peanuts raisins and SmartiesAfter some patience trying

unsuccessfully to find a breeze the sailboat gave up and motored into Queens Reach first well behind me then passing wide to avoid kelp to finally cross into Malibu Rapids ahead in the distance at exactly 545 pm Meanwhile I still had the best part of two kilometres to go One more handful of trail mix and I doubled my efforts

Ahead Club Malibu came into focus the Christian youth camp set on the banks of the rapids Capped by Mount Helena it appeared like some latter-day Utopia with a touch of Tolkienrsquos Rivendell thrown in for good measure It grew gradually in stature until I came alongside and entered the rapids just as the first ripples of adverse current were snaking their way out of the passage I pushed through with no trouble but only by a hair The time was 557 pm 12 minutes after the turn

The passage meandered forward and

I came out into Princess Louisa Inlet ndash a narrow twisting passage hemmed in on all sides by massive mountains graced with punishing cliffsides and a myriad of cascading waterfalls

This was the paradise I had paddled 60 kilometres today to see

PRINCeSS LOUISA INLeT has been a perennial cruising destination

its appeal made famous in part by the book The Curve of Time the endearing memoirs of a mother who cruised the British Columbia coast in a small boat with her two young children back in the late 1920s and early 1930s Part travelogue and part adventure it captures the era of Desolation Sound and the coast of British Columbia in the days when there were only travellers no tourists Author Wylie Blanchetrsquos touching insights and descriptions help keep the book a regular bestseller here in BC and many a traveller

has reached this location based on Wyliersquos inspirational writing revisiting many of her favourite locations while re-reading the book

Though now well known among the cruising world the inlet remains offbeat as a kayaking destination Back in 2005 as part of a publishing industry breakfast in Vancouver I was talking with a fellow author who had put together a book of anecdotes compiled from newspaper columns about kayaking trips I saw a section about Princess Louisa Inlet and asked him how he found paddling it

ldquoNo I took a boat up then kayaked You couldnrsquot kayak there Itrsquos impossiblerdquo he said

And so the gauntlet was laidI first completed the trip back in 2006

but in very different circumstances The world was grey wet and overcast for that trip and so I enjoyed the waterfalls but not the full splendour of the inlet thanks to

Background Princess Louisa Inlet and the view toward Chatterbox Falls shown more closely above Top left on the end of a portage

through Club Malibu at Malibu Rapids on the return journey a homeward-bound campsite on Princess Royal Reach and one of the

numerous waterfalls to be seen in Princess Louisa Inlet

Princess Louisa

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the cloud cover It was also much earlier in the year so instead of inflow and outflow winds to worry about I had a constant outflow current to battle The trip up took two full days the trip back just one

On this trip my window was sunny and warm so I had a strong suspicion inflows would be powerful And they were ndash for about an hour But the spring runoff was long gone so the travel was smooth enough and the blessing was a rare unimpeded view of the surrounding mountains once I arrived

I often coach contributors to CoastampKayak Magazine to express the beauty of a region through description rather than adjectives Princess Louisa however remains outside the realm of fitting description except for perhaps this Irsquove travelled almost all the BC coast now and if I was to become jaded by mountainous landscapes that time would have arrived and long since passed Yet when I turned the final corner to face Chatterbox Falls and its surrounding splendour even for the second time I found myself stunned to immobility Paddling had to wait there was nothing to be done but soak in the landscape and appreciate the steep chiselled rock faces crashing kilometres from summit to sea the uncountable ribbons of waterfalls and central to it all massive Chatterbox Falls pounding directly into the head of the inlet

Yes Princess Louisa Inlet can be kayaked It wonrsquot be easy but few things worthwhile are

nThis trip to Princess Louisa Inlet took

place over eight days with a launch from the CoastampKayak Magazine office (the MV Rainy Day) and back to Parksville a 450-km route involving circumnavigations of Lasqueti Texada and a dip into Sechelt Inlet through Skookumchuck Narrows (shown on the cover though on this journey it was passed nearer slack) The distance was made possible by close attention to winds and was the inspiration for the lsquoLearning to deal with windrsquo article on page 32

Princess Louisa inlet

Chatterbox Falls

Malibu Rapids

Patricia Pt

Princess Royal Reach

Prince of Wales Reach

VancouverBay

Hothamsound

McMurrayBay

FairviewBay

MoorsamBluff

saumarezBluff

McCallrsquosLanding

QueensReach

JeRVis inLet

goliathBay

HarmonyFall

Inside Princess Louisa Inlet on the final turn before the

view of Chatterbox Falls

Princess Louisa Inlet

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Lund BC | 604-483-7900 | 888-552-5558wwwterracentricadventurescom

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportInstruction amp Leadership Programs

Maps Charts amp BooksCentral waterfront location amp launch site

Discover the Power in your Nature

Howe sound

Jervisinlet

skookumchuck

Powell R

sechelt

Lund

Princess Louisa inletDesolation

sound

Discoveryislands

Vancouvernanaimo

Comox

Princess Louisa Inlet is best suited for expert paddlers though water taxis from Egmont Pender Harbour Sechelt Powell River or Lund can reduce the length and difficulty of getting there Two campsites are located in Princess Louisa Inlet Provincial Park ndash one at Chatterbox Falls at the head of the inlet and one 2 km farther down Another amenity is a dock for visiting boaters Tours are available either by relaxed luxury mini-cruiseships or faster Zodiacs Princess Louisa is reached through Jervis Inlet which is the gateway to Desolation Sound and separated from Sechelt Inlet by the famed Skookumchuck Narrows (cover photo) Thus Princess Louisa and Jervis Inlet lend themselves to expedition-length explorations of the wider region and several weeks would only scratch the surface

If you go

Rounding Patricia Point on the way to Princess Royal

Reach on the return journey

Princess Louisa Inlet

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

ldquoMy chief fantasy is that one day the absentee owners (of Little DrsquoArcy Island) will come along and tell me that since I am Little DrsquoArcyrsquos strongest supporter I can live there for the rest of my life for a dollar a year Or perhaps I shall do some service for my country so that Ottawa will offer me my dearest wish Then I will build a log house with lots of glass windows and a stone fireplace and roam the island with my cougar companions Dreamsrdquo

ndash Excerpts from Affair with a Cougar 1978

Tom who wouldnrsquot move unless I followed lay down and rested his head on mine Though small in relation to the rest of his body it was too heavy for my comfort so I shifted it gently Content he sprawled out on his side placed his forepaws on my neck and went to sleep purring With an island of onersquos own such moments could last forever Tom had given me his complete trust and confidence and it was a responsibility I did not take lightly

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

Town of Sidney via Sidney Spit on Sidney Island to the shoals and islets around Little DrsquoArcy The second day would be spent on DrsquoArcy Island with a hike of its cross-island trails then back to Vancouver Island at Island View Beach

No cougars and raccoons aboard this time (though I did want to take my house cat) I invited my paddling buddy Amir a newcomer to Vancouver Island waters and its wildlife

Our first stop was the mile-long sand bar of Sidney Spit Marine Park with its upright log pilings ndash handy signposts that look like totem poles from afar but are really logs driven into the sand to prevent erosion The sheltered sand and grass-edged lagoon with its kayak-friendly beaches were surprisingly deserted this holiday weekend Odd given the abundance of birds ndash murrelets auklets oyster catchers sandpipers great blue herons ndash the clear blue skies and the warm summer sun A change from my customary paddles on the outer coast

eagles swooped down from the steep dry clay cliffs of Sidney Island to pluck unlucky gulls out of a smooth silky sea One determined eagle dived repeatedly with outstretched talons to grab a gull who just as determinedly dipped and dived to

get away Finally the eagle gave up pursuit and returned to its perch on a tree I remembered the fortnightly flights on a float plane to study eagle nests on Sidney Island when most of it was owned by a single man Now there are several private residences on this island a fact we were told in no uncertain terms by one resident while having a quick lunch below the high tide line at the end of the island

The shoals and reefs rocks and islets that surround the DrsquoArcys are replete with wildlife Nesting gulls and cormorants thronged the whitewashed shorelines Sleek seals balanced themselves atop offshore rocks like acrobats Pairs of auklets and murrelets popped up and down in the water like corks A black oystercatcher poked and pried its long red beak around

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

I wrote that fantasy about Little DrsquoArcy Island in the 1978 book Love Affair with a Cougar but neither

scenario came to be instead Big DrsquoArcy Island became a provincial park in 1967 then part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003

In 1985 Phil Middleton bought Little DrsquoArcy Island and built his own dream house above concrete cells left over from the old leper colony Thatrsquos part of a dark chapter in British Columbiarsquos history when Chinese lepers were banished here to a life of solitude between 1890 and 1924

Nine years after moving there Phil read of my passion for Little DrsquoArcy Island and spent a year trying to track me down When he found me in the Northwest Territories he invited me to revisit Little DrsquoArcy and less than a week later I flew south to Sidney and met him We shared our passion for this magic Shangri-la and I was able to revisit bygone days spent here roaming freely with cougars (yes cougars) and releasing orphaned raccoons

One dream remained ndash to return here by kayak instead of the faster rubber dinghy I had used in the past That chance came in August 2012 The plan was a leisurely circle route arriving from the

Top left previous page Lyn Hancock has a nap with Tom back in the late 1960s when it was possible to snuggle with a cougar on DrsquoArcy Island Above Lyn the raccoon whisperer making friends with possible descendants of the raccoons she released in her days as co-owner of Island View Beach Conservation Centre Bottom left normally two cougars in your camp might be a cause for concern but for Lyn it was camping as usual

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

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18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

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Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

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465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

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Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

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0

5

25

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95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

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water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

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Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

bullConvenient

international shipping

Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

Custom Building

FEATURING

woodboat_adqxpLayout 1 91610 123 PM Page 1

advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

Kayak Repair amp Refit

bull Component Replacementsbull Gel Coat Refinishing

Vancouver Island South

22 - 2300 Canoe Cove RoadSidney BC V8L 3X9

(250) 654-0052

Andrea Morrison

Meet Blacklinersquos kayak specialist ndash ten years of manufacturing and

repair experience

bull Keel Line Rebuildsbull Structural Repairs

Newlocation

The evolution of inflatable kayakstrade

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

1-866-323-3525wwwautomarineca SINCE 1907

The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

Our boats are designed to travel by air land and sea

Go The Distance paddle with power and controlwith Canadian Hand Craftedhellip

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

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ee

three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

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3200 Island Highway

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Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

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Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

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VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

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What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

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Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

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10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

I thanked the captain for the information then paddled away to leave them to their drifting Then I did the math It was 3 pm and I was 18 kilometres away So I either had to hurry to make slack or get there late and do a lengthy portage

The timing it turned out suddenly mattered a great deal

I decided to race to make the slack The water was dead calm now not so much as a ripple so there was no excuse for anything but a perfect paddle stroke I set in at a pace just a hair over 6 kilometres an hour determined to keep it up for three more hours fueled entirely by occasional handfuls

Princess Louisa

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

of peanuts raisins and SmartiesAfter some patience trying

unsuccessfully to find a breeze the sailboat gave up and motored into Queens Reach first well behind me then passing wide to avoid kelp to finally cross into Malibu Rapids ahead in the distance at exactly 545 pm Meanwhile I still had the best part of two kilometres to go One more handful of trail mix and I doubled my efforts

Ahead Club Malibu came into focus the Christian youth camp set on the banks of the rapids Capped by Mount Helena it appeared like some latter-day Utopia with a touch of Tolkienrsquos Rivendell thrown in for good measure It grew gradually in stature until I came alongside and entered the rapids just as the first ripples of adverse current were snaking their way out of the passage I pushed through with no trouble but only by a hair The time was 557 pm 12 minutes after the turn

The passage meandered forward and

I came out into Princess Louisa Inlet ndash a narrow twisting passage hemmed in on all sides by massive mountains graced with punishing cliffsides and a myriad of cascading waterfalls

This was the paradise I had paddled 60 kilometres today to see

PRINCeSS LOUISA INLeT has been a perennial cruising destination

its appeal made famous in part by the book The Curve of Time the endearing memoirs of a mother who cruised the British Columbia coast in a small boat with her two young children back in the late 1920s and early 1930s Part travelogue and part adventure it captures the era of Desolation Sound and the coast of British Columbia in the days when there were only travellers no tourists Author Wylie Blanchetrsquos touching insights and descriptions help keep the book a regular bestseller here in BC and many a traveller

has reached this location based on Wyliersquos inspirational writing revisiting many of her favourite locations while re-reading the book

Though now well known among the cruising world the inlet remains offbeat as a kayaking destination Back in 2005 as part of a publishing industry breakfast in Vancouver I was talking with a fellow author who had put together a book of anecdotes compiled from newspaper columns about kayaking trips I saw a section about Princess Louisa Inlet and asked him how he found paddling it

ldquoNo I took a boat up then kayaked You couldnrsquot kayak there Itrsquos impossiblerdquo he said

And so the gauntlet was laidI first completed the trip back in 2006

but in very different circumstances The world was grey wet and overcast for that trip and so I enjoyed the waterfalls but not the full splendour of the inlet thanks to

Background Princess Louisa Inlet and the view toward Chatterbox Falls shown more closely above Top left on the end of a portage

through Club Malibu at Malibu Rapids on the return journey a homeward-bound campsite on Princess Royal Reach and one of the

numerous waterfalls to be seen in Princess Louisa Inlet

Princess Louisa

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the cloud cover It was also much earlier in the year so instead of inflow and outflow winds to worry about I had a constant outflow current to battle The trip up took two full days the trip back just one

On this trip my window was sunny and warm so I had a strong suspicion inflows would be powerful And they were ndash for about an hour But the spring runoff was long gone so the travel was smooth enough and the blessing was a rare unimpeded view of the surrounding mountains once I arrived

I often coach contributors to CoastampKayak Magazine to express the beauty of a region through description rather than adjectives Princess Louisa however remains outside the realm of fitting description except for perhaps this Irsquove travelled almost all the BC coast now and if I was to become jaded by mountainous landscapes that time would have arrived and long since passed Yet when I turned the final corner to face Chatterbox Falls and its surrounding splendour even for the second time I found myself stunned to immobility Paddling had to wait there was nothing to be done but soak in the landscape and appreciate the steep chiselled rock faces crashing kilometres from summit to sea the uncountable ribbons of waterfalls and central to it all massive Chatterbox Falls pounding directly into the head of the inlet

Yes Princess Louisa Inlet can be kayaked It wonrsquot be easy but few things worthwhile are

nThis trip to Princess Louisa Inlet took

place over eight days with a launch from the CoastampKayak Magazine office (the MV Rainy Day) and back to Parksville a 450-km route involving circumnavigations of Lasqueti Texada and a dip into Sechelt Inlet through Skookumchuck Narrows (shown on the cover though on this journey it was passed nearer slack) The distance was made possible by close attention to winds and was the inspiration for the lsquoLearning to deal with windrsquo article on page 32

Princess Louisa inlet

Chatterbox Falls

Malibu Rapids

Patricia Pt

Princess Royal Reach

Prince of Wales Reach

VancouverBay

Hothamsound

McMurrayBay

FairviewBay

MoorsamBluff

saumarezBluff

McCallrsquosLanding

QueensReach

JeRVis inLet

goliathBay

HarmonyFall

Inside Princess Louisa Inlet on the final turn before the

view of Chatterbox Falls

Princess Louisa Inlet

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Lund BC | 604-483-7900 | 888-552-5558wwwterracentricadventurescom

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportInstruction amp Leadership Programs

Maps Charts amp BooksCentral waterfront location amp launch site

Discover the Power in your Nature

Howe sound

Jervisinlet

skookumchuck

Powell R

sechelt

Lund

Princess Louisa inletDesolation

sound

Discoveryislands

Vancouvernanaimo

Comox

Princess Louisa Inlet is best suited for expert paddlers though water taxis from Egmont Pender Harbour Sechelt Powell River or Lund can reduce the length and difficulty of getting there Two campsites are located in Princess Louisa Inlet Provincial Park ndash one at Chatterbox Falls at the head of the inlet and one 2 km farther down Another amenity is a dock for visiting boaters Tours are available either by relaxed luxury mini-cruiseships or faster Zodiacs Princess Louisa is reached through Jervis Inlet which is the gateway to Desolation Sound and separated from Sechelt Inlet by the famed Skookumchuck Narrows (cover photo) Thus Princess Louisa and Jervis Inlet lend themselves to expedition-length explorations of the wider region and several weeks would only scratch the surface

If you go

Rounding Patricia Point on the way to Princess Royal

Reach on the return journey

Princess Louisa Inlet

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

ldquoMy chief fantasy is that one day the absentee owners (of Little DrsquoArcy Island) will come along and tell me that since I am Little DrsquoArcyrsquos strongest supporter I can live there for the rest of my life for a dollar a year Or perhaps I shall do some service for my country so that Ottawa will offer me my dearest wish Then I will build a log house with lots of glass windows and a stone fireplace and roam the island with my cougar companions Dreamsrdquo

ndash Excerpts from Affair with a Cougar 1978

Tom who wouldnrsquot move unless I followed lay down and rested his head on mine Though small in relation to the rest of his body it was too heavy for my comfort so I shifted it gently Content he sprawled out on his side placed his forepaws on my neck and went to sleep purring With an island of onersquos own such moments could last forever Tom had given me his complete trust and confidence and it was a responsibility I did not take lightly

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

Town of Sidney via Sidney Spit on Sidney Island to the shoals and islets around Little DrsquoArcy The second day would be spent on DrsquoArcy Island with a hike of its cross-island trails then back to Vancouver Island at Island View Beach

No cougars and raccoons aboard this time (though I did want to take my house cat) I invited my paddling buddy Amir a newcomer to Vancouver Island waters and its wildlife

Our first stop was the mile-long sand bar of Sidney Spit Marine Park with its upright log pilings ndash handy signposts that look like totem poles from afar but are really logs driven into the sand to prevent erosion The sheltered sand and grass-edged lagoon with its kayak-friendly beaches were surprisingly deserted this holiday weekend Odd given the abundance of birds ndash murrelets auklets oyster catchers sandpipers great blue herons ndash the clear blue skies and the warm summer sun A change from my customary paddles on the outer coast

eagles swooped down from the steep dry clay cliffs of Sidney Island to pluck unlucky gulls out of a smooth silky sea One determined eagle dived repeatedly with outstretched talons to grab a gull who just as determinedly dipped and dived to

get away Finally the eagle gave up pursuit and returned to its perch on a tree I remembered the fortnightly flights on a float plane to study eagle nests on Sidney Island when most of it was owned by a single man Now there are several private residences on this island a fact we were told in no uncertain terms by one resident while having a quick lunch below the high tide line at the end of the island

The shoals and reefs rocks and islets that surround the DrsquoArcys are replete with wildlife Nesting gulls and cormorants thronged the whitewashed shorelines Sleek seals balanced themselves atop offshore rocks like acrobats Pairs of auklets and murrelets popped up and down in the water like corks A black oystercatcher poked and pried its long red beak around

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

I wrote that fantasy about Little DrsquoArcy Island in the 1978 book Love Affair with a Cougar but neither

scenario came to be instead Big DrsquoArcy Island became a provincial park in 1967 then part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003

In 1985 Phil Middleton bought Little DrsquoArcy Island and built his own dream house above concrete cells left over from the old leper colony Thatrsquos part of a dark chapter in British Columbiarsquos history when Chinese lepers were banished here to a life of solitude between 1890 and 1924

Nine years after moving there Phil read of my passion for Little DrsquoArcy Island and spent a year trying to track me down When he found me in the Northwest Territories he invited me to revisit Little DrsquoArcy and less than a week later I flew south to Sidney and met him We shared our passion for this magic Shangri-la and I was able to revisit bygone days spent here roaming freely with cougars (yes cougars) and releasing orphaned raccoons

One dream remained ndash to return here by kayak instead of the faster rubber dinghy I had used in the past That chance came in August 2012 The plan was a leisurely circle route arriving from the

Top left previous page Lyn Hancock has a nap with Tom back in the late 1960s when it was possible to snuggle with a cougar on DrsquoArcy Island Above Lyn the raccoon whisperer making friends with possible descendants of the raccoons she released in her days as co-owner of Island View Beach Conservation Centre Bottom left normally two cougars in your camp might be a cause for concern but for Lyn it was camping as usual

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

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18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

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Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

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~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

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Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

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Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

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Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

Just 45 minutes from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

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100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

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majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

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international shipping

Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

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woodboat_adqxpLayout 1 91610 123 PM Page 1

advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

Kayak Repair amp Refit

bull Component Replacementsbull Gel Coat Refinishing

Vancouver Island South

22 - 2300 Canoe Cove RoadSidney BC V8L 3X9

(250) 654-0052

Andrea Morrison

Meet Blacklinersquos kayak specialist ndash ten years of manufacturing and

repair experience

bull Keel Line Rebuildsbull Structural Repairs

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

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The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

Our boats are designed to travel by air land and sea

Go The Distance paddle with power and controlwith Canadian Hand Craftedhellip

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

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C

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MY

CY

CMY

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

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email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

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Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

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When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

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from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

of peanuts raisins and SmartiesAfter some patience trying

unsuccessfully to find a breeze the sailboat gave up and motored into Queens Reach first well behind me then passing wide to avoid kelp to finally cross into Malibu Rapids ahead in the distance at exactly 545 pm Meanwhile I still had the best part of two kilometres to go One more handful of trail mix and I doubled my efforts

Ahead Club Malibu came into focus the Christian youth camp set on the banks of the rapids Capped by Mount Helena it appeared like some latter-day Utopia with a touch of Tolkienrsquos Rivendell thrown in for good measure It grew gradually in stature until I came alongside and entered the rapids just as the first ripples of adverse current were snaking their way out of the passage I pushed through with no trouble but only by a hair The time was 557 pm 12 minutes after the turn

The passage meandered forward and

I came out into Princess Louisa Inlet ndash a narrow twisting passage hemmed in on all sides by massive mountains graced with punishing cliffsides and a myriad of cascading waterfalls

This was the paradise I had paddled 60 kilometres today to see

PRINCeSS LOUISA INLeT has been a perennial cruising destination

its appeal made famous in part by the book The Curve of Time the endearing memoirs of a mother who cruised the British Columbia coast in a small boat with her two young children back in the late 1920s and early 1930s Part travelogue and part adventure it captures the era of Desolation Sound and the coast of British Columbia in the days when there were only travellers no tourists Author Wylie Blanchetrsquos touching insights and descriptions help keep the book a regular bestseller here in BC and many a traveller

has reached this location based on Wyliersquos inspirational writing revisiting many of her favourite locations while re-reading the book

Though now well known among the cruising world the inlet remains offbeat as a kayaking destination Back in 2005 as part of a publishing industry breakfast in Vancouver I was talking with a fellow author who had put together a book of anecdotes compiled from newspaper columns about kayaking trips I saw a section about Princess Louisa Inlet and asked him how he found paddling it

ldquoNo I took a boat up then kayaked You couldnrsquot kayak there Itrsquos impossiblerdquo he said

And so the gauntlet was laidI first completed the trip back in 2006

but in very different circumstances The world was grey wet and overcast for that trip and so I enjoyed the waterfalls but not the full splendour of the inlet thanks to

Background Princess Louisa Inlet and the view toward Chatterbox Falls shown more closely above Top left on the end of a portage

through Club Malibu at Malibu Rapids on the return journey a homeward-bound campsite on Princess Royal Reach and one of the

numerous waterfalls to be seen in Princess Louisa Inlet

Princess Louisa

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the cloud cover It was also much earlier in the year so instead of inflow and outflow winds to worry about I had a constant outflow current to battle The trip up took two full days the trip back just one

On this trip my window was sunny and warm so I had a strong suspicion inflows would be powerful And they were ndash for about an hour But the spring runoff was long gone so the travel was smooth enough and the blessing was a rare unimpeded view of the surrounding mountains once I arrived

I often coach contributors to CoastampKayak Magazine to express the beauty of a region through description rather than adjectives Princess Louisa however remains outside the realm of fitting description except for perhaps this Irsquove travelled almost all the BC coast now and if I was to become jaded by mountainous landscapes that time would have arrived and long since passed Yet when I turned the final corner to face Chatterbox Falls and its surrounding splendour even for the second time I found myself stunned to immobility Paddling had to wait there was nothing to be done but soak in the landscape and appreciate the steep chiselled rock faces crashing kilometres from summit to sea the uncountable ribbons of waterfalls and central to it all massive Chatterbox Falls pounding directly into the head of the inlet

Yes Princess Louisa Inlet can be kayaked It wonrsquot be easy but few things worthwhile are

nThis trip to Princess Louisa Inlet took

place over eight days with a launch from the CoastampKayak Magazine office (the MV Rainy Day) and back to Parksville a 450-km route involving circumnavigations of Lasqueti Texada and a dip into Sechelt Inlet through Skookumchuck Narrows (shown on the cover though on this journey it was passed nearer slack) The distance was made possible by close attention to winds and was the inspiration for the lsquoLearning to deal with windrsquo article on page 32

Princess Louisa inlet

Chatterbox Falls

Malibu Rapids

Patricia Pt

Princess Royal Reach

Prince of Wales Reach

VancouverBay

Hothamsound

McMurrayBay

FairviewBay

MoorsamBluff

saumarezBluff

McCallrsquosLanding

QueensReach

JeRVis inLet

goliathBay

HarmonyFall

Inside Princess Louisa Inlet on the final turn before the

view of Chatterbox Falls

Princess Louisa Inlet

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Lund BC | 604-483-7900 | 888-552-5558wwwterracentricadventurescom

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportInstruction amp Leadership Programs

Maps Charts amp BooksCentral waterfront location amp launch site

Discover the Power in your Nature

Howe sound

Jervisinlet

skookumchuck

Powell R

sechelt

Lund

Princess Louisa inletDesolation

sound

Discoveryislands

Vancouvernanaimo

Comox

Princess Louisa Inlet is best suited for expert paddlers though water taxis from Egmont Pender Harbour Sechelt Powell River or Lund can reduce the length and difficulty of getting there Two campsites are located in Princess Louisa Inlet Provincial Park ndash one at Chatterbox Falls at the head of the inlet and one 2 km farther down Another amenity is a dock for visiting boaters Tours are available either by relaxed luxury mini-cruiseships or faster Zodiacs Princess Louisa is reached through Jervis Inlet which is the gateway to Desolation Sound and separated from Sechelt Inlet by the famed Skookumchuck Narrows (cover photo) Thus Princess Louisa and Jervis Inlet lend themselves to expedition-length explorations of the wider region and several weeks would only scratch the surface

If you go

Rounding Patricia Point on the way to Princess Royal

Reach on the return journey

Princess Louisa Inlet

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

ldquoMy chief fantasy is that one day the absentee owners (of Little DrsquoArcy Island) will come along and tell me that since I am Little DrsquoArcyrsquos strongest supporter I can live there for the rest of my life for a dollar a year Or perhaps I shall do some service for my country so that Ottawa will offer me my dearest wish Then I will build a log house with lots of glass windows and a stone fireplace and roam the island with my cougar companions Dreamsrdquo

ndash Excerpts from Affair with a Cougar 1978

Tom who wouldnrsquot move unless I followed lay down and rested his head on mine Though small in relation to the rest of his body it was too heavy for my comfort so I shifted it gently Content he sprawled out on his side placed his forepaws on my neck and went to sleep purring With an island of onersquos own such moments could last forever Tom had given me his complete trust and confidence and it was a responsibility I did not take lightly

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

Town of Sidney via Sidney Spit on Sidney Island to the shoals and islets around Little DrsquoArcy The second day would be spent on DrsquoArcy Island with a hike of its cross-island trails then back to Vancouver Island at Island View Beach

No cougars and raccoons aboard this time (though I did want to take my house cat) I invited my paddling buddy Amir a newcomer to Vancouver Island waters and its wildlife

Our first stop was the mile-long sand bar of Sidney Spit Marine Park with its upright log pilings ndash handy signposts that look like totem poles from afar but are really logs driven into the sand to prevent erosion The sheltered sand and grass-edged lagoon with its kayak-friendly beaches were surprisingly deserted this holiday weekend Odd given the abundance of birds ndash murrelets auklets oyster catchers sandpipers great blue herons ndash the clear blue skies and the warm summer sun A change from my customary paddles on the outer coast

eagles swooped down from the steep dry clay cliffs of Sidney Island to pluck unlucky gulls out of a smooth silky sea One determined eagle dived repeatedly with outstretched talons to grab a gull who just as determinedly dipped and dived to

get away Finally the eagle gave up pursuit and returned to its perch on a tree I remembered the fortnightly flights on a float plane to study eagle nests on Sidney Island when most of it was owned by a single man Now there are several private residences on this island a fact we were told in no uncertain terms by one resident while having a quick lunch below the high tide line at the end of the island

The shoals and reefs rocks and islets that surround the DrsquoArcys are replete with wildlife Nesting gulls and cormorants thronged the whitewashed shorelines Sleek seals balanced themselves atop offshore rocks like acrobats Pairs of auklets and murrelets popped up and down in the water like corks A black oystercatcher poked and pried its long red beak around

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

I wrote that fantasy about Little DrsquoArcy Island in the 1978 book Love Affair with a Cougar but neither

scenario came to be instead Big DrsquoArcy Island became a provincial park in 1967 then part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003

In 1985 Phil Middleton bought Little DrsquoArcy Island and built his own dream house above concrete cells left over from the old leper colony Thatrsquos part of a dark chapter in British Columbiarsquos history when Chinese lepers were banished here to a life of solitude between 1890 and 1924

Nine years after moving there Phil read of my passion for Little DrsquoArcy Island and spent a year trying to track me down When he found me in the Northwest Territories he invited me to revisit Little DrsquoArcy and less than a week later I flew south to Sidney and met him We shared our passion for this magic Shangri-la and I was able to revisit bygone days spent here roaming freely with cougars (yes cougars) and releasing orphaned raccoons

One dream remained ndash to return here by kayak instead of the faster rubber dinghy I had used in the past That chance came in August 2012 The plan was a leisurely circle route arriving from the

Top left previous page Lyn Hancock has a nap with Tom back in the late 1960s when it was possible to snuggle with a cougar on DrsquoArcy Island Above Lyn the raccoon whisperer making friends with possible descendants of the raccoons she released in her days as co-owner of Island View Beach Conservation Centre Bottom left normally two cougars in your camp might be a cause for concern but for Lyn it was camping as usual

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

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18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

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Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

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Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

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0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

bullConvenient

international shipping

Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

Custom Building

FEATURING

woodboat_adqxpLayout 1 91610 123 PM Page 1

advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

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Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

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Delt

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aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

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expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

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335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

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3200 Island Highway

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VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

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12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the cloud cover It was also much earlier in the year so instead of inflow and outflow winds to worry about I had a constant outflow current to battle The trip up took two full days the trip back just one

On this trip my window was sunny and warm so I had a strong suspicion inflows would be powerful And they were ndash for about an hour But the spring runoff was long gone so the travel was smooth enough and the blessing was a rare unimpeded view of the surrounding mountains once I arrived

I often coach contributors to CoastampKayak Magazine to express the beauty of a region through description rather than adjectives Princess Louisa however remains outside the realm of fitting description except for perhaps this Irsquove travelled almost all the BC coast now and if I was to become jaded by mountainous landscapes that time would have arrived and long since passed Yet when I turned the final corner to face Chatterbox Falls and its surrounding splendour even for the second time I found myself stunned to immobility Paddling had to wait there was nothing to be done but soak in the landscape and appreciate the steep chiselled rock faces crashing kilometres from summit to sea the uncountable ribbons of waterfalls and central to it all massive Chatterbox Falls pounding directly into the head of the inlet

Yes Princess Louisa Inlet can be kayaked It wonrsquot be easy but few things worthwhile are

nThis trip to Princess Louisa Inlet took

place over eight days with a launch from the CoastampKayak Magazine office (the MV Rainy Day) and back to Parksville a 450-km route involving circumnavigations of Lasqueti Texada and a dip into Sechelt Inlet through Skookumchuck Narrows (shown on the cover though on this journey it was passed nearer slack) The distance was made possible by close attention to winds and was the inspiration for the lsquoLearning to deal with windrsquo article on page 32

Princess Louisa inlet

Chatterbox Falls

Malibu Rapids

Patricia Pt

Princess Royal Reach

Prince of Wales Reach

VancouverBay

Hothamsound

McMurrayBay

FairviewBay

MoorsamBluff

saumarezBluff

McCallrsquosLanding

QueensReach

JeRVis inLet

goliathBay

HarmonyFall

Inside Princess Louisa Inlet on the final turn before the

view of Chatterbox Falls

Princess Louisa Inlet

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

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Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportInstruction amp Leadership Programs

Maps Charts amp BooksCentral waterfront location amp launch site

Discover the Power in your Nature

Howe sound

Jervisinlet

skookumchuck

Powell R

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Princess Louisa inletDesolation

sound

Discoveryislands

Vancouvernanaimo

Comox

Princess Louisa Inlet is best suited for expert paddlers though water taxis from Egmont Pender Harbour Sechelt Powell River or Lund can reduce the length and difficulty of getting there Two campsites are located in Princess Louisa Inlet Provincial Park ndash one at Chatterbox Falls at the head of the inlet and one 2 km farther down Another amenity is a dock for visiting boaters Tours are available either by relaxed luxury mini-cruiseships or faster Zodiacs Princess Louisa is reached through Jervis Inlet which is the gateway to Desolation Sound and separated from Sechelt Inlet by the famed Skookumchuck Narrows (cover photo) Thus Princess Louisa and Jervis Inlet lend themselves to expedition-length explorations of the wider region and several weeks would only scratch the surface

If you go

Rounding Patricia Point on the way to Princess Royal

Reach on the return journey

Princess Louisa Inlet

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

ldquoMy chief fantasy is that one day the absentee owners (of Little DrsquoArcy Island) will come along and tell me that since I am Little DrsquoArcyrsquos strongest supporter I can live there for the rest of my life for a dollar a year Or perhaps I shall do some service for my country so that Ottawa will offer me my dearest wish Then I will build a log house with lots of glass windows and a stone fireplace and roam the island with my cougar companions Dreamsrdquo

ndash Excerpts from Affair with a Cougar 1978

Tom who wouldnrsquot move unless I followed lay down and rested his head on mine Though small in relation to the rest of his body it was too heavy for my comfort so I shifted it gently Content he sprawled out on his side placed his forepaws on my neck and went to sleep purring With an island of onersquos own such moments could last forever Tom had given me his complete trust and confidence and it was a responsibility I did not take lightly

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

Town of Sidney via Sidney Spit on Sidney Island to the shoals and islets around Little DrsquoArcy The second day would be spent on DrsquoArcy Island with a hike of its cross-island trails then back to Vancouver Island at Island View Beach

No cougars and raccoons aboard this time (though I did want to take my house cat) I invited my paddling buddy Amir a newcomer to Vancouver Island waters and its wildlife

Our first stop was the mile-long sand bar of Sidney Spit Marine Park with its upright log pilings ndash handy signposts that look like totem poles from afar but are really logs driven into the sand to prevent erosion The sheltered sand and grass-edged lagoon with its kayak-friendly beaches were surprisingly deserted this holiday weekend Odd given the abundance of birds ndash murrelets auklets oyster catchers sandpipers great blue herons ndash the clear blue skies and the warm summer sun A change from my customary paddles on the outer coast

eagles swooped down from the steep dry clay cliffs of Sidney Island to pluck unlucky gulls out of a smooth silky sea One determined eagle dived repeatedly with outstretched talons to grab a gull who just as determinedly dipped and dived to

get away Finally the eagle gave up pursuit and returned to its perch on a tree I remembered the fortnightly flights on a float plane to study eagle nests on Sidney Island when most of it was owned by a single man Now there are several private residences on this island a fact we were told in no uncertain terms by one resident while having a quick lunch below the high tide line at the end of the island

The shoals and reefs rocks and islets that surround the DrsquoArcys are replete with wildlife Nesting gulls and cormorants thronged the whitewashed shorelines Sleek seals balanced themselves atop offshore rocks like acrobats Pairs of auklets and murrelets popped up and down in the water like corks A black oystercatcher poked and pried its long red beak around

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

I wrote that fantasy about Little DrsquoArcy Island in the 1978 book Love Affair with a Cougar but neither

scenario came to be instead Big DrsquoArcy Island became a provincial park in 1967 then part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003

In 1985 Phil Middleton bought Little DrsquoArcy Island and built his own dream house above concrete cells left over from the old leper colony Thatrsquos part of a dark chapter in British Columbiarsquos history when Chinese lepers were banished here to a life of solitude between 1890 and 1924

Nine years after moving there Phil read of my passion for Little DrsquoArcy Island and spent a year trying to track me down When he found me in the Northwest Territories he invited me to revisit Little DrsquoArcy and less than a week later I flew south to Sidney and met him We shared our passion for this magic Shangri-la and I was able to revisit bygone days spent here roaming freely with cougars (yes cougars) and releasing orphaned raccoons

One dream remained ndash to return here by kayak instead of the faster rubber dinghy I had used in the past That chance came in August 2012 The plan was a leisurely circle route arriving from the

Top left previous page Lyn Hancock has a nap with Tom back in the late 1960s when it was possible to snuggle with a cougar on DrsquoArcy Island Above Lyn the raccoon whisperer making friends with possible descendants of the raccoons she released in her days as co-owner of Island View Beach Conservation Centre Bottom left normally two cougars in your camp might be a cause for concern but for Lyn it was camping as usual

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

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18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

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~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

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465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

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Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

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Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

Just 45 minutes from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

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0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

bullConvenient

international shipping

Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

Custom Building

FEATURING

woodboat_adqxpLayout 1 91610 123 PM Page 1

advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

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email ______________________________________________

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expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

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Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

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More gear More selection More locations

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

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Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportInstruction amp Leadership Programs

Maps Charts amp BooksCentral waterfront location amp launch site

Discover the Power in your Nature

Howe sound

Jervisinlet

skookumchuck

Powell R

sechelt

Lund

Princess Louisa inletDesolation

sound

Discoveryislands

Vancouvernanaimo

Comox

Princess Louisa Inlet is best suited for expert paddlers though water taxis from Egmont Pender Harbour Sechelt Powell River or Lund can reduce the length and difficulty of getting there Two campsites are located in Princess Louisa Inlet Provincial Park ndash one at Chatterbox Falls at the head of the inlet and one 2 km farther down Another amenity is a dock for visiting boaters Tours are available either by relaxed luxury mini-cruiseships or faster Zodiacs Princess Louisa is reached through Jervis Inlet which is the gateway to Desolation Sound and separated from Sechelt Inlet by the famed Skookumchuck Narrows (cover photo) Thus Princess Louisa and Jervis Inlet lend themselves to expedition-length explorations of the wider region and several weeks would only scratch the surface

If you go

Rounding Patricia Point on the way to Princess Royal

Reach on the return journey

Princess Louisa Inlet

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

ldquoMy chief fantasy is that one day the absentee owners (of Little DrsquoArcy Island) will come along and tell me that since I am Little DrsquoArcyrsquos strongest supporter I can live there for the rest of my life for a dollar a year Or perhaps I shall do some service for my country so that Ottawa will offer me my dearest wish Then I will build a log house with lots of glass windows and a stone fireplace and roam the island with my cougar companions Dreamsrdquo

ndash Excerpts from Affair with a Cougar 1978

Tom who wouldnrsquot move unless I followed lay down and rested his head on mine Though small in relation to the rest of his body it was too heavy for my comfort so I shifted it gently Content he sprawled out on his side placed his forepaws on my neck and went to sleep purring With an island of onersquos own such moments could last forever Tom had given me his complete trust and confidence and it was a responsibility I did not take lightly

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

Town of Sidney via Sidney Spit on Sidney Island to the shoals and islets around Little DrsquoArcy The second day would be spent on DrsquoArcy Island with a hike of its cross-island trails then back to Vancouver Island at Island View Beach

No cougars and raccoons aboard this time (though I did want to take my house cat) I invited my paddling buddy Amir a newcomer to Vancouver Island waters and its wildlife

Our first stop was the mile-long sand bar of Sidney Spit Marine Park with its upright log pilings ndash handy signposts that look like totem poles from afar but are really logs driven into the sand to prevent erosion The sheltered sand and grass-edged lagoon with its kayak-friendly beaches were surprisingly deserted this holiday weekend Odd given the abundance of birds ndash murrelets auklets oyster catchers sandpipers great blue herons ndash the clear blue skies and the warm summer sun A change from my customary paddles on the outer coast

eagles swooped down from the steep dry clay cliffs of Sidney Island to pluck unlucky gulls out of a smooth silky sea One determined eagle dived repeatedly with outstretched talons to grab a gull who just as determinedly dipped and dived to

get away Finally the eagle gave up pursuit and returned to its perch on a tree I remembered the fortnightly flights on a float plane to study eagle nests on Sidney Island when most of it was owned by a single man Now there are several private residences on this island a fact we were told in no uncertain terms by one resident while having a quick lunch below the high tide line at the end of the island

The shoals and reefs rocks and islets that surround the DrsquoArcys are replete with wildlife Nesting gulls and cormorants thronged the whitewashed shorelines Sleek seals balanced themselves atop offshore rocks like acrobats Pairs of auklets and murrelets popped up and down in the water like corks A black oystercatcher poked and pried its long red beak around

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

I wrote that fantasy about Little DrsquoArcy Island in the 1978 book Love Affair with a Cougar but neither

scenario came to be instead Big DrsquoArcy Island became a provincial park in 1967 then part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003

In 1985 Phil Middleton bought Little DrsquoArcy Island and built his own dream house above concrete cells left over from the old leper colony Thatrsquos part of a dark chapter in British Columbiarsquos history when Chinese lepers were banished here to a life of solitude between 1890 and 1924

Nine years after moving there Phil read of my passion for Little DrsquoArcy Island and spent a year trying to track me down When he found me in the Northwest Territories he invited me to revisit Little DrsquoArcy and less than a week later I flew south to Sidney and met him We shared our passion for this magic Shangri-la and I was able to revisit bygone days spent here roaming freely with cougars (yes cougars) and releasing orphaned raccoons

One dream remained ndash to return here by kayak instead of the faster rubber dinghy I had used in the past That chance came in August 2012 The plan was a leisurely circle route arriving from the

Top left previous page Lyn Hancock has a nap with Tom back in the late 1960s when it was possible to snuggle with a cougar on DrsquoArcy Island Above Lyn the raccoon whisperer making friends with possible descendants of the raccoons she released in her days as co-owner of Island View Beach Conservation Centre Bottom left normally two cougars in your camp might be a cause for concern but for Lyn it was camping as usual

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

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18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

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465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

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1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

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Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

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Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

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0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

bullConvenient

international shipping

Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

Custom Building

FEATURING

woodboat_adqxpLayout 1 91610 123 PM Page 1

advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

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Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

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email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

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expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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TOTAL $_________

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TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

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Ro

Byn

Mo

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

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14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

ldquoMy chief fantasy is that one day the absentee owners (of Little DrsquoArcy Island) will come along and tell me that since I am Little DrsquoArcyrsquos strongest supporter I can live there for the rest of my life for a dollar a year Or perhaps I shall do some service for my country so that Ottawa will offer me my dearest wish Then I will build a log house with lots of glass windows and a stone fireplace and roam the island with my cougar companions Dreamsrdquo

ndash Excerpts from Affair with a Cougar 1978

Tom who wouldnrsquot move unless I followed lay down and rested his head on mine Though small in relation to the rest of his body it was too heavy for my comfort so I shifted it gently Content he sprawled out on his side placed his forepaws on my neck and went to sleep purring With an island of onersquos own such moments could last forever Tom had given me his complete trust and confidence and it was a responsibility I did not take lightly

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

Town of Sidney via Sidney Spit on Sidney Island to the shoals and islets around Little DrsquoArcy The second day would be spent on DrsquoArcy Island with a hike of its cross-island trails then back to Vancouver Island at Island View Beach

No cougars and raccoons aboard this time (though I did want to take my house cat) I invited my paddling buddy Amir a newcomer to Vancouver Island waters and its wildlife

Our first stop was the mile-long sand bar of Sidney Spit Marine Park with its upright log pilings ndash handy signposts that look like totem poles from afar but are really logs driven into the sand to prevent erosion The sheltered sand and grass-edged lagoon with its kayak-friendly beaches were surprisingly deserted this holiday weekend Odd given the abundance of birds ndash murrelets auklets oyster catchers sandpipers great blue herons ndash the clear blue skies and the warm summer sun A change from my customary paddles on the outer coast

eagles swooped down from the steep dry clay cliffs of Sidney Island to pluck unlucky gulls out of a smooth silky sea One determined eagle dived repeatedly with outstretched talons to grab a gull who just as determinedly dipped and dived to

get away Finally the eagle gave up pursuit and returned to its perch on a tree I remembered the fortnightly flights on a float plane to study eagle nests on Sidney Island when most of it was owned by a single man Now there are several private residences on this island a fact we were told in no uncertain terms by one resident while having a quick lunch below the high tide line at the end of the island

The shoals and reefs rocks and islets that surround the DrsquoArcys are replete with wildlife Nesting gulls and cormorants thronged the whitewashed shorelines Sleek seals balanced themselves atop offshore rocks like acrobats Pairs of auklets and murrelets popped up and down in the water like corks A black oystercatcher poked and pried its long red beak around

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

I wrote that fantasy about Little DrsquoArcy Island in the 1978 book Love Affair with a Cougar but neither

scenario came to be instead Big DrsquoArcy Island became a provincial park in 1967 then part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003

In 1985 Phil Middleton bought Little DrsquoArcy Island and built his own dream house above concrete cells left over from the old leper colony Thatrsquos part of a dark chapter in British Columbiarsquos history when Chinese lepers were banished here to a life of solitude between 1890 and 1924

Nine years after moving there Phil read of my passion for Little DrsquoArcy Island and spent a year trying to track me down When he found me in the Northwest Territories he invited me to revisit Little DrsquoArcy and less than a week later I flew south to Sidney and met him We shared our passion for this magic Shangri-la and I was able to revisit bygone days spent here roaming freely with cougars (yes cougars) and releasing orphaned raccoons

One dream remained ndash to return here by kayak instead of the faster rubber dinghy I had used in the past That chance came in August 2012 The plan was a leisurely circle route arriving from the

Top left previous page Lyn Hancock has a nap with Tom back in the late 1960s when it was possible to snuggle with a cougar on DrsquoArcy Island Above Lyn the raccoon whisperer making friends with possible descendants of the raccoons she released in her days as co-owner of Island View Beach Conservation Centre Bottom left normally two cougars in your camp might be a cause for concern but for Lyn it was camping as usual

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

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18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

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Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

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February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

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For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

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Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

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26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

bullConvenient

international shipping

Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

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woodboat_adqxpLayout 1 91610 123 PM Page 1

advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

Kayak Repair amp Refit

bull Component Replacementsbull Gel Coat Refinishing

Vancouver Island South

22 - 2300 Canoe Cove RoadSidney BC V8L 3X9

(250) 654-0052

Andrea Morrison

Meet Blacklinersquos kayak specialist ndash ten years of manufacturing and

repair experience

bull Keel Line Rebuildsbull Structural Repairs

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

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The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

Our boats are designed to travel by air land and sea

Go The Distance paddle with power and controlwith Canadian Hand Craftedhellip

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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C

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CM

MY

CY

CMY

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

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3200 Island Highway

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VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

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What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

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Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

Town of Sidney via Sidney Spit on Sidney Island to the shoals and islets around Little DrsquoArcy The second day would be spent on DrsquoArcy Island with a hike of its cross-island trails then back to Vancouver Island at Island View Beach

No cougars and raccoons aboard this time (though I did want to take my house cat) I invited my paddling buddy Amir a newcomer to Vancouver Island waters and its wildlife

Our first stop was the mile-long sand bar of Sidney Spit Marine Park with its upright log pilings ndash handy signposts that look like totem poles from afar but are really logs driven into the sand to prevent erosion The sheltered sand and grass-edged lagoon with its kayak-friendly beaches were surprisingly deserted this holiday weekend Odd given the abundance of birds ndash murrelets auklets oyster catchers sandpipers great blue herons ndash the clear blue skies and the warm summer sun A change from my customary paddles on the outer coast

eagles swooped down from the steep dry clay cliffs of Sidney Island to pluck unlucky gulls out of a smooth silky sea One determined eagle dived repeatedly with outstretched talons to grab a gull who just as determinedly dipped and dived to

get away Finally the eagle gave up pursuit and returned to its perch on a tree I remembered the fortnightly flights on a float plane to study eagle nests on Sidney Island when most of it was owned by a single man Now there are several private residences on this island a fact we were told in no uncertain terms by one resident while having a quick lunch below the high tide line at the end of the island

The shoals and reefs rocks and islets that surround the DrsquoArcys are replete with wildlife Nesting gulls and cormorants thronged the whitewashed shorelines Sleek seals balanced themselves atop offshore rocks like acrobats Pairs of auklets and murrelets popped up and down in the water like corks A black oystercatcher poked and pried its long red beak around

Destinations South Gulf Islands by Lyn Hancock

I wrote that fantasy about Little DrsquoArcy Island in the 1978 book Love Affair with a Cougar but neither

scenario came to be instead Big DrsquoArcy Island became a provincial park in 1967 then part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003

In 1985 Phil Middleton bought Little DrsquoArcy Island and built his own dream house above concrete cells left over from the old leper colony Thatrsquos part of a dark chapter in British Columbiarsquos history when Chinese lepers were banished here to a life of solitude between 1890 and 1924

Nine years after moving there Phil read of my passion for Little DrsquoArcy Island and spent a year trying to track me down When he found me in the Northwest Territories he invited me to revisit Little DrsquoArcy and less than a week later I flew south to Sidney and met him We shared our passion for this magic Shangri-la and I was able to revisit bygone days spent here roaming freely with cougars (yes cougars) and releasing orphaned raccoons

One dream remained ndash to return here by kayak instead of the faster rubber dinghy I had used in the past That chance came in August 2012 The plan was a leisurely circle route arriving from the

Top left previous page Lyn Hancock has a nap with Tom back in the late 1960s when it was possible to snuggle with a cougar on DrsquoArcy Island Above Lyn the raccoon whisperer making friends with possible descendants of the raccoons she released in her days as co-owner of Island View Beach Conservation Centre Bottom left normally two cougars in your camp might be a cause for concern but for Lyn it was camping as usual

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

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Check out our FLEET SALE

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

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othership Adventure

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Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

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BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Spring 2010 WaveLength Magazine 3

PROOFSTours British Columbia

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

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T h e B a h a m a s

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Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

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bull Kayak Galiano Islandbull Daily Guided Toursamp Rentals since 1985bull 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry Pick-Upbull Open All Year

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0

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25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

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A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

1-866-323-3525wwwautomarineca SINCE 1907

The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

Our boats are designed to travel by air land and sea

Go The Distance paddle with power and controlwith Canadian Hand Craftedhellip

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

Danuu

wwwDANUUcomDanuu PaddleSport Accessories

ee

three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

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Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the pebbles probing for molluscs Itrsquos hard to imagine a more delightful

island than Little DrsquoArcy At low tide it is almost two islands separated by a picturesque lagoon At high tide it is shaped like the cotyledons of a bean You can walk around it leisurely in about three-quarters of an hour to discover variety at every bend Most islands in the Pacific Northwest if uninhabited are heavily forested but on Little DrsquoArcy (like Big DrsquoArcy) you can stroll through its heart as easily as walk its shoreline Its vegetation is comparatively sparse and the trails that were cut in the days of the lepers are not yet overgrown

As Amir and I circumnavigated Little DrsquoArcy in our kayaks I revelled in the memory of strolling around it with my

cougars ndash watching them balance on the driftwood stretching along logs and raking the wood with their powerful forepaws to sharpen their claws standing up against the trunks of trees to scratch deep gashes in the bark swimming with Tom the near-blind one then falling asleep with him under the lean-to as deep rumbling purrs of catlike contentment seemed to shake the ground even now I can feel his fur against my skin

We paddled into the beach on the

southwest side I clicked off a quick picture of the spruce tree on the bank where I camped with the cougars and another of the flower-bedecked glass-surrounded house and deck built over the now cedar-sided concrete leper cells And there lying on a log waiting patiently for our arrival was Phil and one of his favourite buddies Brett a friendly black-tailed deer buck Brettrsquos family browsed nearby Deer had found a haven on this

DrsquoArcy Island

Above The view through the window opening of ruins from the DrsquoArcy Island leper colony possibly the caretakers residence Other leper colony ruins dot the two DrsquoArcy islands Right an amble through the amiable forest of Big DrsquoArcy Island Few British Columbia islands have such forgiving terrain for strolling

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

kayakutopia

Sales -Rentals - Instruction - Day Tours - Info Station

com

Comox Valley Kayakson Vancouver Island

1-888-545-5595

maybe itrsquos time for a new kayak

Check out our FLEET SALE

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Spring 2010 WaveLength Magazine 3

PROOFSTours British Columbia

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

T h e B a h a m a s

1 8 0 0 3 0 7 3 9 8 2

Kayak with us in a warm-water paradiseBook your winter getaway now

www k a y a k i n g t o u r s c om

Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

Just 45 minutes from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Kayak Galiano Islandbull Daily Guided Toursamp Rentals since 1985bull 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry Pick-Upbull Open All Year

Join us in Costa Rica Weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets

Expeditions

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear

163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide CoursesTwo Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

Lessons amp Rentals

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

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Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

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bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

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Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PADDLES

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

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VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

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Go Ahead Take It ALL In

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

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Sales -Rentals - Instruction - Day Tours - Info Station

com

Comox Valley Kayakson Vancouver Island

1-888-545-5595

maybe itrsquos time for a new kayak

Check out our FLEET SALE

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

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Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Spring 2010 WaveLength Magazine 3

PROOFSTours British Columbia

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

T h e B a h a m a s

1 8 0 0 3 0 7 3 9 8 2

Kayak with us in a warm-water paradiseBook your winter getaway now

www k a y a k i n g t o u r s c om

Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

Just 45 minutes from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Kayak Galiano Islandbull Daily Guided Toursamp Rentals since 1985bull 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry Pick-Upbull Open All Year

Join us in Costa Rica Weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets

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A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear

163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

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Lessons amp Rentals

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

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Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

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36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

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Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

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Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

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CreDit CarD paymeNt

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expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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TOTAL $_________

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TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

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3200 Island Highway

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VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

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18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

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Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

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BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Spring 2010 WaveLength Magazine 3

PROOFSTours British Columbia

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

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Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

Just 45 minutes from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

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0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

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A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

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Swar

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OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

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international shipping

Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

Kayak Repair amp Refit

bull Component Replacementsbull Gel Coat Refinishing

Vancouver Island South

22 - 2300 Canoe Cove RoadSidney BC V8L 3X9

(250) 654-0052

Andrea Morrison

Meet Blacklinersquos kayak specialist ndash ten years of manufacturing and

repair experience

bull Keel Line Rebuildsbull Structural Repairs

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

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The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

Our boats are designed to travel by air land and sea

Go The Distance paddle with power and controlwith Canadian Hand Craftedhellip

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

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ee

three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

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C

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CM

MY

CY

CMY

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

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3200 Island Highway

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VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

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What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

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Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

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for over 25 yrs and counting

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

critter-friendly islandObviously there were no cougars here

now but there were fifteen raccoons descendants of orphans like Rocky (Therersquos a Raccoon in my Parka) which I had released on the DrsquoArcys in the 1960s While Phil prepared the prawns and hamburger beneath the curious eyes of two raccoons doing their balancing act on the barbecue lid and his partner Carole fixed the rest of the dinner I took Amir on a stroll to see the sunset on the island on the other side of the lagoon

He was totally unprepared for meeting wild raccoons padding the same trail island-sized raccoons that twirled on ballet-dancer legs delicately fingering the air and staring at him curiously with their penetrating mask-lined eyes Amir was in wonderland

Next morning we awoke to raccoons scampering up and down the stairs and climbing over each other to peer through the windows while we ate breakfast Later I sat on the sand quiet and still and stretched out my hand as several deer and a troop of raccoons visited shyly at first and then with acceptance I grinned as I wondered if they knew I was their grandmother a few greats removed A family of eagles also at home on this island soared overhead I was in ecstasy

Too soon we had to go albeit only a ten-minute paddle away to a cove on the protected east side of DrsquoArcy Island Marine Park Whereas Little DrsquoArcy is a private island Big DrsquoArcy is open to the public with campsites washrooms and picnic tables

The trails are rough and not clearly marked but thankfully Phil gave us a map hersquod made of those he had personally helped to define The coloured lines on his map coincided with his coloured ribbons on the trees and led us south along the beach west across the island to the two concrete foundations of the lepersrsquo original row housing and then north to the lighthouse and the remaining concrete walls of a caretakerrsquos residence Behind it concrete steps hung above another concrete foundation I thought it was an outbuilding perhaps a chicken house Amir thought it was an outhouse

Remnants of low stone walls along the edge of a large open space looked like they marked an orchard or garden

Returning to Island View Beach where my former home was also in ruins I recollected my own history and the changes in attitudes and perceptions caused by the passage of time Former neighbours who once feared my cougars dropped down the hill from their farms and subdivisions to tell me about a cougar that had recently been killing their sheep and goats There was a warning sign lsquoCougar in Arearsquo by the parking lot and campground in what was now a

regional park We hugged No grudges now

nLyn Hancock is planning a re-release of

Love Affair With a Cougar as an e-book having just completed her first electronic book The Ring Memories of a Metis Grandmother available at Amazoncom Her book Tabasco the Saucy Raccoon is still available in print as well as two collectorrsquos copies of the original Love Affair With a Cougar (contact her for prices) She is currently on a five-month trip to Africa from Capetown to Cairo revisiting the route of a hitchhiking trip she took in the 1960s Visit wwwlynhancockcom

I watched apprehensively as our big male cougar unsheathed his long sharp claws and snatched at the inflated rubber sides of the boat Any second I expected to see the material burst with a sudden puncture Amazingly it withstood the pressure from the cougarrsquos huge thumb the deadly dew claw There was not even a scratch on the rubber Sitting in a comfortable place in the bottom of the boat among the cargo produced the inevitable results as it does for any mammal that puts its feet in cold water or turns on the water tap in the bathroom We hadnrsquot provided sandboxes so cleanup took a little time From then on the rest of the voyage was uneventful Periodically I would give the cougars a reassuring hug and every now and then Tom would lean over the edge and snarl at the sea I had to laugh It seemed such an ineffectual way to express his views of this unknown phenomenon

DrsquoArcy Island

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

T h e B a h a m a s

1 8 0 0 3 0 7 3 9 8 2

Kayak with us in a warm-water paradiseBook your winter getaway now

www k a y a k i n g t o u r s c om

Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

Just 45 minutes from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Kayak Galiano Islandbull Daily Guided Toursamp Rentals since 1985bull 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry Pick-Upbull Open All Year

Join us in Costa Rica Weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets

Expeditions

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear

163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide CoursesTwo Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

Lessons amp Rentals

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

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Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

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bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

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Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PADDLES

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

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CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

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Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

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More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

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What are you waiting for

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Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

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20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

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T h e B a h a m a s

1 8 0 0 3 0 7 3 9 8 2

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Back in the years when cougars were killed on sight because they ate deer (and sometimes livestock) I rescued four cougar kittens moments before they could be intentionally mauled to death by hounds trained to hunt them Their mother had just been shot so they could not be released in the wild and one kitten I named Tom had congenital cataracts in his eyes and was almost blind

Being a school teacher and co-owner of Island View Beach Wildlife Conservation Centre I was given educational scientific and zoo permits to care for and keep these four kittens These cougars changed my life and the lives of all who came in contact with them I spent decades studying cougars at home at university and in the field My first book was Love Affair with a Cougar

The most idyllic moments of my life were spent wandering freely with my cougars on Little DrsquoArcy Island Days there were a temporary respite before the inevitable and they were removed from the municipality after some neighbours tried to get our permits rescinded But for some months this abandoned leper colony was a safe place to study firsthand how the cougars moved swam played groomed scraped climbed trees used their claws made sounds managed various kinds of food how they behaved in the day compared to night and how they interacted with each other and us

How camping with cougars came to be

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

DrsquoArcy Island

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

Just 45 minutes from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

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bull Kayak Galiano Islandbull Daily Guided Toursamp Rentals since 1985bull 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry Pick-Upbull Open All Year

Join us in Costa Rica Weekly Dec-April since 1987

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163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

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Lessons amp Rentals

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

bullConvenient

international shipping

Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

Custom Building

FEATURING

woodboat_adqxpLayout 1 91610 123 PM Page 1

advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

Kayak Repair amp Refit

bull Component Replacementsbull Gel Coat Refinishing

Vancouver Island South

22 - 2300 Canoe Cove RoadSidney BC V8L 3X9

(250) 654-0052

Andrea Morrison

Meet Blacklinersquos kayak specialist ndash ten years of manufacturing and

repair experience

bull Keel Line Rebuildsbull Structural Repairs

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The evolution of inflatable kayakstrade

See our complete line of products and find a dearer near you AdvancedElementscom

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

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Delt

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aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

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expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

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to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

Tours Rentals Lessons Sales

Just 45 minutes from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Kayak Galiano Islandbull Daily Guided Toursamp Rentals since 1985bull 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry Pick-Upbull Open All Year

Join us in Costa Rica Weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets

Expeditions

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear

163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide CoursesTwo Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

Lessons amp Rentals

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

DrsquoArcy Island is on the south end of the southern Gulf Islands easily approached by kayak from Sidney on Vancouver Island It is part of a close cluster of islands within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve with camping facilities the other camping islands in the area are Sidney Spit and Rum Island Because of their proximity to the greater Victoria region all three make ideal day-trip destinations as well as overnight stops

Another possibility is linking DrsquoArcy to a longer tour of the southern Gulf Islands rich in areas to explore many within the national park created in 2003 From DrsquoArcy or Sidney islands it is possible to extend your trip to Portland Island north of Sidney and from there to destinations such as Prevost Island near Saltspring Island or Beaumont on the Pender Islands The Town of Sidney the Penders and Saltspring all offer an array of accommodation options that make island hopping a comfortable choice Ideal bases for trips like this are marked with a boat launch icon on the map

If you go

sidney i

Rum i

Portland iMorseby i

Beaumont

narvaez Baysaturna i

Cabbage i

north Pender i

Prevost i

Mayne i

galiano i

saltspring i

Cowichan Bay

Fulford Harbour

swartzBay

ganges

Drsquoarcy i

James isidney

island View Beach

saanichinlet

For sale$75000000

Little Drsquoarcy i

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

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36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

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Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

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CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

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expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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TOTAL $_________

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330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

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VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

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What are you waiting for

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22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Wildlife by James Dorsey

WhalespeakAdventures in

humpback whales are classic performers shown here entertaining with a breach Less common is the chance to hear them sing ndash not to mention trumpet watch them bubble netting or other behaviours that defy explanation ndash for now

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

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A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

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Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

1-866-323-3525wwwautomarineca SINCE 1907

The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

Our boats are designed to travel by air land and sea

Go The Distance paddle with power and controlwith Canadian Hand Craftedhellip

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

Danuu

wwwDANUUcomDanuu PaddleSport Accessories

ee

three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

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CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

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Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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TOTAL $_________

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330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

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3200 Island Highway

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VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

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What are you waiting for

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

after the orca the humpback whale seems to be the public favourite first because they

are so acrobatic and known for putting on a real show and second because they are known as the whale that sings

It is true they do sing but only the males do this and only while in warm waters where they migrate in the summertime Not only that but they hang upside down while singing and we are not quite sure why they do this

For a long time it was thought this was a ploy to attract females but that theory is gradually being replaced by the idea that it is a way for the males to establish territory Researchers noticed a lot of jostling and pushing among the singing males while at the same time noticing a distinct lack of females in the area Perhaps the ladies did not appreciate this macho behavior

They range throughout most of the world spending winter months in high latitude feeding grounds and then migrate thousands of miles to southern breeding grounds Many biologists believe there are at least ten distinct populations determined by geography but other than a particular spot near Costa Rica no one knows just where these places are

Humpbacks enter the world at four to five metres in length weighing one to two tonnes An adult will grow anywhere from 12 to 15 metres and weigh 25 to 30 tonnes each one is unique and identifiable by the individual markings of white on the underside of its mostly gray flukes These markings are thought to be as reliable a source of identification as human fingerprints They do not take their name from any physical deformity but rather from the way they bend their back unlike any other whale into an almost perfect 180-degree arch just before diving They have huge knobby bumps all over their snout or rostrum and a tiny dorsal fin located about two thirds of the way back on their spine Their most distinguishing characteristic is an elongated pectoral fin that is about one third the length of their body That allows them to make the spectacular leaps and bounds they are known for

They are often curious and slow swimmers known to approach boats

usually diving for three to nine minutes but they can stay under for up to 45 minutes if they wish This is commonly followed by four to eight blows upon surfacing

BuBBle nettIng is a hunting technique only the humpback

employs A humpback will swim below a school of baitfish and circle from underneath while slowly exhaling its breath to create a circle of bubbles As the bubbles rise the baitfish will rise with them No one knows for sure why but fish will not swim through bubbles While the baitfish school is slowly surfacing trapped within the bubble net the rest of the humpback pod will dive below it and come up with their enormous mouths wide open taking in tons of water and fish at the same time From the surface you can tell when this is happening as you will spot a large circle of anchovies or other victims jump suddenly en masse just before the gigantic mouths break the surface It is a

stupendous sight to watch and one of the feeding marvels of any wild species

There is one other entirely new feeding technique that as far as I know my wife and I are the only people to have witnessed

We were camped on Chichigoff Island a brown bear-packed piece of real estate that sits directly opposite the entrance to Alaskarsquos Glacier Bay on the Icy Strait The strait itself is a swirling mass of colliding tidal zones that bring in massive amounts of krill while at the same time creating a nightmare of swirling churning rips ready to suck a kayak down like a rubber bathtub toy We arrived by power ferry boat rather than risk paddling and made camp on a stony beach with our backs against impenetrable devilrsquos club a razor-sharp thorny weed used as the only fence necessary to keep German Second World War prisoners on the island

This was humpback central There were so many whale blows around us we could not count them all and spent our first night peering out our tent flap as the gentle giants cruised by our camp only a few yards offshore They were there to feed and our presence was not even a minor inconvenience to them as we watched bubble netting just offshore for the better part of a day before hitting the water ourselves A solid kelp wall about 30 metres offshore acted as a natural barrier against the unpredictable currents We kept inside that for protected paddling

A chittering raft of sea otters greeted us the first morning we put in rolled up tightly in the kelp beds and pounding open purple anemones held on their chest by smashing them with rocks No sooner were we on the water than we were surrounded by whales Some cruised by within inches never quite close enough to touch but suddenly a pod of at least ten whales shot past us at speed all swimming in unison which struck me as very unusual

They quickly left us behind but we kept them in sight with binoculars and approached to within a couple hundred yards just as they seemed to have reached their destination We stopped paddling and let the current carry us slowly in their direction

Wildlife by James Dorsey

No doubt the humpbacks

are telling us something

The question is what

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

bullConvenient

international shipping

Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

Custom Building

FEATURING

woodboat_adqxpLayout 1 91610 123 PM Page 1

advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

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Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

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email ______________________________________________

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expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

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Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

The pod had split in two and five whales had formed a line all facing towards land They began to beat the water with their tail flukes at the same time and at first I thought it to be some form of communication but then I spotted a number of silver flashes The whales were driving what appeared to be a large school of herring away from them Then Irene spotted the other half of the pod about a quarter mile away in a perpendicular line to their companions They were just lying on the surface with open mouths and the frantic herring were rushing headlong into them All the whales had to do was swallow

We watched this for several minutes when the lob-tailing suddenly ended abruptly and we figured the whales had eaten their fill They had indeed but only half the pod At this point the whales that were first feeding now turned their tails towards the rest of the pod and began to lob-tail just as their companions had done driving the schooling fish back towards the original whales who were now feeding as fast as the fish could swim Once both halves of the pod had fed they dispersed in several directions apparently having come together only long enough to hunt as a solid unit

I wrote and published the story in a kayaking magazine asking for anyone who had witnessed such behavior to please contact me To this day no one has

To me this behavior was proof of an advanced thought process and in my mind it placed the humpback almost on an intellectual par with the orca whom I had always thought to be the most intelligent animal on earth smarter than chimpanzees and dogs

Another encounter I wish to relate took place on a small commercial whale watching boat out of Ventura in California We were approaching Santa Cruz Island in late September a good time for viewing humpbacks off the California coast as the Santa Barbara channel had been full of them all summer

We spotted three humpbacks breaching far off in the distance Since nothing else was happening at the moment we decided to take off in hopes that they might just keep it up until we arrived Naturally they did not

When we reached the desired spot they were nowhere to be found but we sat and waited for several minutes just in case they surfaced nearby after sounding Within two minutes they had not only surfaced less than 100 yards off our 10 orsquoclock but were trumpeting For those not familiar with this behaviour humpbacks can literally trumpet like an elephant and do it more often than people might think Other than communication or pure joy no one knows for sure why they do it but it is a pleasant enough sound and certainly one you do not get to hear every day on a whale watch Not only that but they began approaching us three abreast trumpeting as loud as they possibly could

One split off and headed for the bow where it began to mouth our anchor chain with its baleen while the other two came right up to the boat and began to slowly circle us repeatedly They would stop every few feet and spyhop keeping their rostrums just out of our reach not allowing contact

The most surprising thing to me about all this was the fact that all three of them continued to trumpet for the better part of the hour that they spent around our boat I have never heard them communicate in such a loud and continuous manner Were they calling other whales or just having

fun with us The longer this kept up the more convinced I became that they were not just talking amongst themselves or calling to other whales but were making a concentrated effort to communicate with us How frustrating to both them and us that this was not possible

For those who have never had such an experience try to imagine a lion tiger or elephant coming right up to you trying to tell you something but not knowing how We take it for granted that our pets at home can communicate with us but when it happens in the wild it becomes a supernatural occurrence

I used to believe that humpback whales were solitary and shy creatures that avoided boats except for those in places where they have become habituated to them such as off the coast of Lahaina in Maui Hawaii where watching humpbacks is the state pastime But just offshore from my native California these whales have proved time and again that nothing is written in stone Now they come in great numbers every summer not only approaching boats but seeking human contact I hope I live long enough to find out what they are trying to tell us

nCoastampKayak Magazine is proud to be able

to serialize James Dorseyrsquos book Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales

A humpback rises to the surface with its mouth open from bubble netting

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

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Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

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36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

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Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

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rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

each spring about 20000 gray whales migrate from Baja Peninsularsquos breeding and calving lagoons in Mexico for their summer feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas near the Arctic

The passage of the whales often peaks in numbers along the British Columbia coast in March and is marked by a whale festival along Vancouver Islandrsquos Pacific Rim National Park and the adjacent community of Ucluelet

As well as a chance to view the whales the festival serves as a way to view some of the unique west coast culture through art photos presentations tours culinary offerings and contests as well as educational events

The Pacific Rim Whale Festival is nine days and nights featuring about 90

different events The festival coincides with the onset of spring on the west coast

of Vancouver Island and includes events for children and families of interest to everyone from nature lovers to adventurers with a variety of cultural culinary musical and educational activities

if you go Ucluelet is 25 hours from

Nanaimo and fours hours from Victoria plus additional ferry and travel time for those arriving from the mainland Bus service is available (tofinobuscom) and accommodation options range from small

bed and breakfasts to large resortsNaturally gray whales can be viewed

year-round in adjacent Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands along with humpback whales and numerous other marine mammals The Broken Group Islands part of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve are a favourite kayaking destinationu pacificrimwhalefestivalcomother festivals These take place

around the world from Maui Hawaii to Oshika Japan with North American events including the Santa Barbara Whale Festival Mendocino Coast Whale Festival Fort Bragg Whale Festival and San Diego Whale Festival Mujeres Mexico has the International Whale and Shark Festival

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

The ultimate guideThe long-awaited heir to The Wild Coast Vol 1 The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 explores Vancouver Islandrsquos West Coast in a spectacular presentation of maps photography and information

wwwthewildcoastca

Join the whales in UclueletPacific Rim Whale Festival March 16-24 2013

Wildlife Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

DrS

teven

Swar

tzN

OAA

NMFS

OPR

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

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Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

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36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

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Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Misty miles

they say every seventh wave is the largest those must have been the ones that slopped over

the bow of my kayak and slid off my sprayskirt when my timing wasnrsquot spot on I was on the outside of our foursome and while at the foot of a huge trough my peripheral vision lacked my friends Committed now it was just a matter of concentrating on paddling until we reached the relative calm of Collison Bay Once there as the adrenaline began to slow we were joined by a pod of humpback whales seaward of us their exhales reminiscent of our own sighs of relief

Heeding the warnings about the power of opposing wind and tide and having timed our rounding of Goodwin Point for slack water we felt confident leaving our pond-like lunch spot in the bay But naturersquos power can be unleashed quickly and were soon engulfed in three-metre swells Later around the campfire we

agreed turning around was not an optionMy three companions and I were

paddling in the southern part of Gwaii Haanas National Park in Haida Gwaii Canadarsquos westernmost archipelago The high-speed inflatable zodiac transporter we arranged in Sandspit whisked us from Moresby Camp to Fanny Cove and dropped us off along with our rented kayaks and gear for a weekrsquos paddle north It was early yet for the paddling season so we had this incredible wilderness beach all to ourselves

Topping our list for this trip was a paddle to Ninstints the remains of a traditional northwest coast First Nations village site (Spring 2012 CoastampKayak) A light breeze stirred as we paddled through the low swells of the open Pacific towards the remote eastern side of SGang Gwaay We radioed the resident summer watchman and she replied ldquoPermission to land and you are the first kayakers to visit us this seasonrdquo

Ninstints is a protected UNeSCO World Heritage Site and sacred ground for the Haida Above the beach amongst the moss and grasses stand disintegrating mortuary and memorial poles as well as rotting beams and corner posts from huge cedar longhouses The remains will eventually return to the earth as part of the natural cycle Canoe runs are still visible on the beach as the tide falls As we wandered through this 19th century village the spirits of the Haida ancestors seemed to be watching Respecting the freshening breeze and the change of tide we thanked the watchman and hastened our return crossing

Paddling northwards every day brought a fresh choice of camping spots It is refreshing in a national park to have no designated camping areas no outhouses and the freedom to have campfires below the high tide line Fairytale-like carpets of deep moss amongst the huge cedars and sitka spruce

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

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Kayaks offer a mix of

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36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

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Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

sgang gwaay

sandspit

Moresby Camp

Bag Harbour

Collison Bay

Benjamin PtFanny Cove

HaiDa gWaii

gwaii Haanasnational Park Reserve

Prince Rupert

provided luxurious tent spots Curious black bears occasionally checked out our camp and chance encounters with killer whales sea lions and numerous seabird added a delight to our days

Isolated pocket beaches unusual rock formations and driftwood provided a beachcomberrsquos dream Kelp forests abalone shells and a cornucopia of sea life scattered the tide lines

One of our group Albert scored the most coveted treasure of all a Japanese glass fishing float

Upon hearing a blow Mike called out ldquoLetrsquos paddle that wayrdquo and we headed seaward A pod of rissorsquos dolphins treated us to a show of porpoising and breaching Rissorsquos are large dolphins with melon-shaped heads and scarred bodies Traditionally they are a rare occurrence in these islands but have been spotted in Bag Harbour over the last few years

The evening sunset glowed but the weather changed rapidly and we awoke to grey skies and large swells making launching our laden kayaks a bit tricky Small craft warnings fog and rain sum up the typical weather hence the nickname the lsquoMisty Islesrsquo One morning after a drastic downpour Catrin awoke to find her sleeping pad partially afloat on the floor of her tent No journey to Gwaii Haanas is complete without a full-on soursquoeaster and the sideways rain and 40-knot winds came full force Fortunately our pickup was due to arrive

The radio crackled to life ldquoParty of four above Burnaby Narrows are you ready for pickuprdquo All too quickly this wild and wonderful wilderness adventure

Touring experiences Haida Gwaii by Christine Fordham

started to slip into our ldquoexcellent adventuresrdquo memory banks

nChristine Fordham is a business consultant

from Black Creek BC Her weekend passions are climbing mountains backcountry skiing and mountain biking

A rare calm sea at Fanny Cove offers the chance to cross to SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island) Inset top left Paddling northward in formation to round Benjamin Point Bottom

left a look at the thick and magical rainforest of Gwaii Haanas Left background Paddling into Skincuttle Inlet

Below a fawn awaits momrsquos return

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

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Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

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36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

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Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

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Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

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Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

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right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

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Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

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Delt

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aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

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expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

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335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

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to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

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VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

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Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Pick summer or early fall and you will experience Yukonrsquos wildlife and nature Couple this with natural phenomenon like the midnight sun northern lights and the fall tundra colours and yoursquove just knocked off more bucket-list items No matter when you come our fully licensed guides will give you the ultimate experience on a day trip or a multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

KUSAWA LAKE KAYAKING5 days from $2295 Paddle this dynamic lake with beaches rocky outcrops crystal clear water and nestled within tight mountain ranges A 75-kilometer long lake with many camping spots and south facing slopes perfect for viewing Dall Sheep caribou and bears Take advantage of the hiking opportunities from base camp with numerous alpine fl owers and birds to view along the way

NORTHERN LIGHTS 3 days from $510 Take in our electric light show the Yukonrsquos Aurora Borealis This spectacular show can viewed starting in late August through to April Coupled with fall colours this can be a dramatic visual experience before the snow falls Let an expert customize a package that includes paddling lakes and rivers in the fall or dogsledding and snowmobiling in the winter

TESLIN RIVER CANOEING10 days from $1925 Canoe into the heart of the Yukon wilderness with an experienced guide Watch for moose beavers river otters and many migrating birds Fish along the way for Grayling Pike and Inconnu and watch for migrating Chinook Salmon Canoe from Johnsonrsquos Crossing to Carmacks and pass active First Nation fi sh camps and historical sites

Some things are certain Paddling any of Yukonrsquos numerous navigable rivers and lakes means yoursquoll inevitably run into wildlife ere is so much space that you may be the rst human that animal has ever seen Imagine rounding a river bend lost in repetition of your J-stroke and coasting by a yearling moose munching on spruce willows Curiosity and amazement work both ways in Yukon and provides spontaneous wildlife-viewing opportunities

While large mammals like grizzly and black bears caribou moose sheep and wolves steal the show itrsquos the plants shes birds and butter ies that complete the picture Each plant and animal lls nooks and niches resulting in a living and dynamic eco-system e majority of animals

are drawn to live in or travel along Yukonrsquos waterways Canoes kayaks and rafts that travel in stealth and with minimal impact are perfectly suited to experience Yukonrsquos living things

If you spend enough time on the water yoursquoll develop a sixth sense and know when the conditions for viewing are just right Paddle alongside an uprooted tree next to a gin-clear back eddy that holds Arctic Grayling popping up to feast on bugs Cruising next to south-facing slopes blanketed in Purple Weedgrass may feature

meandering black bears or hyperactive Arctic Ground Squirrels

Picking a spot to camp for the night is often best suited for a long gravel bar with views of high reaching mountain habitats Hours can be

spent in the reclined position with binoculars in hand watching Eagles Gyrfalcons Dall Sheep and who-knows-what pass by It becomes an after dinner game glassing sharing and keeping track of the various animals yoursquove spotted

Yukonrsquos nature also enhances the culinary component of your paddling experience Paddling guides are always scanning for edible mushrooms berries and other land based avourings to accompany your meal Freshly caught grilled lake

trout seasoned with spruce tip salt in a morel and cranberry mushroom sauce accompanied by a reweed honey vinaigrette salad Need one say more

Paddling Yukonrsquos Wild Side

Travel informationBring your reading glasses Tour operators will bring many nature and wildlife guidebooks so you can get into the speci cs of what you are seeing smelling and hearing

Travel informationPick your season to maximize your wildlife viewing and nature experience

Travel informationAnimals tend to be more active in the early morning and evening Take a walk or paddle before breakfast and after dinner

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Phot

o G

over

nmen

t of Y

ukon

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed October 01 2012fall

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

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Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

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If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

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Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

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Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

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The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

Danuu

wwwDANUUcomDanuu PaddleSport Accessories

ee

three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

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Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

30 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Valdes i

yurts

gabriolaisland

silva Baynanaimo

Cedar

galiano i

saltspring island

Ladysmith

If you goReaching outer Valdes Island requires

either launching from Gabriola Island Galiano Island or running the rapids in Gabriola Passage or Porlier Pass Timed properly this makes launches from Cedar Ladysmith and other Vancouver Island locations a possibility Note the long distance and that the outer coast is more exposed than inner channels Silva Bay is the closest launch point

A new retreat

Kayakers have a new destination in the north Gulf Islands thanks to the Lyackson First Nation Valdes Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands without ferry service which has kept it only lightly developed with a major landholder the Lyackson band Until recently visitors have had to be content with Blackberry Point on the islandrsquos south for recreation but now the Lyackson have created a campsite complete with yurts in a beautiful cove setting on the islandrsquos outer north facing the Strait of Georgia The cove is pictured here The work is still in the early stages but it will no doubt be in full service for 2013 Visit wwwlyacksonbcca

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

yellow Bluff

tatchu Pt

Jurassic Pt

gregoire Pt

Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

nootka soUnD

kyUQUot soUnD

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

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Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

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Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

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BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

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This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

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Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

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The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

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Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 31

Plan your trip Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

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Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

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Two favourite kayaking destinations are Rugged Point Provincial Park at the south entrance to Kyuquot Sound and Catala Island Provincial Park on the north entrance to Nootka Sound Between them is about 17-km of sandy beaches interspersed with rock ledge It is a difficult and exposed stretch of coast to paddle but did you know it can be walked The shoreline is exceptionally passable with few obstacles beyond some low-tide rock scrambles and creek fords Otherwise it is an idyllic coastal stroll along some of the most superbly wild and beautiful oceanfront on Vancouver Island Day hikes from Rugged Point or Yellow Bluff (north of Catala Island) are possible as is a multi-day trek Of course kayaking here is great ndash on good days but the many reefs make it intimidating when the swell is up

Stretch the legs

Rugged Point

Catala i

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Jurassic Pt

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Mushroom Ptkapoose Pt

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Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North Destinations Nootka SoundKyuquot Sound

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

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The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

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36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

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The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

Danuu

wwwDANUUcomDanuu PaddleSport Accessories

ee

three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

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Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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TOTAL $_________

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330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

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3200 Island Highway

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More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

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What are you waiting for

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32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WindLearning to deal with

wInd Is the one thing that can stop a kayaking trip dead Rain clouds and cold may make a

trip miserable but those wonrsquot stop you ndash if yoursquore properly equipped Wind on the other hand can strand you despite the best skills level and preparation The simple fact is wind will do what it wants to do when it wants to do it and therersquos nothing you can do to stop it

That would seem to make kayakers powerless but there are things kayakers can do to mitigate the damage wind can cause in a trip Itrsquos a three-step process generally 1) anticipate 2) plan and 3) adapt These steps wonrsquot change what the wind will do but it could make your holiday substantially more bearable Here are some strategies to save your adventure from the evils of wind

1) anticipateKnowledge is the starting point Herersquos

an example A beginnerrsquos mistake is to head off on a day trip by setting out in calm weather only to return later in the day against a fierce headwind People caught in this situation may think it bad luck but in all likelihood they simply didnrsquot know the primary weather pattern which is generally calm winds in the morning followed by rising winds throughout the day Worse yet they may have fallen into the trap of heading out with the prevailing wind direction almost ensuring a headwind on the return leg

In those types of trips planning can help avoid clearly defined wind patterns The problem is weather is usually not as clearly defined as we might hope

A basic bit of knowledge for the southern British Columbia and Pacific Northwest coast is that in a patch of good weather a high pressure system will set up offshore sending north west or northwest

winds along the coast as the system rotates clockwise Meanwhile low pressure systems associated with poor weather will rotate anti-clockwise and bring south or southeast winds

While these are considered the prevailing weather systems any number of variations can occur Consider what happens when the wind hits shore A northwest wind will run into mountains trees and coastline The wind pressure must go somewhere so it will head along the coast through valleys up inlets and river systems and generally take the path of least resistance This means much of the shore wind wonrsquot be northwest any more

In places like the Discovery Islands and Gulf Islands on the east coast of Vancouver Island wind will shift direction stall or funnel in a highly unpredictable manner Anticipating the direction is difficult as a variation of a few degrees could result in a 180-degree shift along a side channel

As complex as that becomes diurnal winds will add another degree of obfuscation Diurnal winds are generally

caused by the heating and cooling of inland areas Once heated an area will suck in cooler offshore air creating strong localized wind currents known as inflows If the offshore air is warmer the reverse will happen and an outflow wind can occur If summer patterns are normal a lighter outflow wind will begin in the morning with stronger inflow winds developing from the mid or late morning to early afternoon Some locations are notorious for their summer inflows and winter outflows Generally the straighter wider and deeper the inlet or channel the potentially stronger the diurnal wind

The effects of diurnal winds can be wide-ranging A renowned variation is the Qualicum winds of Vancouver Island These originate from strong inflows blowing up Alberni Inlet on the islandrsquos west coast then continuing overland So the Strait of Georgia may be getting northerlies but Qualicum Beach could be getting strong localized westerly squalls

Weather by John Kimantas

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

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Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

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36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

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step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

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Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

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Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

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This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

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Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

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The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Wind will do what it wants when it wants but how you choose to approach it can make

all the difference

Should prevailing conditions prevail (which isnrsquot as common as sense would dictate) you can plan for calm mornings and higher afternoon winds that will diminish again in the evening And if this isnrsquot occurring it is a hint that something is awry

Once you know the prevailing weather conditions you can measure those against what is being predicted in marine weather forecasts Many people find the wind predictions notoriously inaccurate but consider the impossibility of the task Most weather regions are huge and prone to a host of localized variations The main point to take from a forecast is the wider implication what is happening with a main weather system front or ridge Generally forecasters will know for instance if a high pressure system is approaching and if it will remain stationary If so the overall weather picture for the region can be predicted (within reason)

After the regional forecast the local conditions are the next crucial piece of the puzzle Nearby lighthouse and automated weather station reports may not initially shed much light calm conditions at one location moderate winds at another high winds at yet a third and most in different directions ndash even though they are in the same regional weather system What you might see is an indecipherable mishmash

Some variations can be expected For instance the Nootka Island lighthouse at Yuquot is on a point on the inside entrance to Nootka Sound and so is prone to morning outflow winds that can skew the regional picture Other locations are prone to wind funneling such as Johnstone Strait or Juan de Fuca Strait where strong sustained winds are far more likely than those in less exposed waterways

So consider each report as a piece of a puzzle to help create a picture of the weather for your area

One approach is to track the hourly reports at key automated weather stations For instance if you are planning on a trip somewhere in the sheltered waters of the Gulf Islands your closest station could be the entrance Island weather station entrance Island is set in the open water of the Strait of Georgia so faces the worst of the regional weather If the forecast is calling for winds to rise to 20 knots later in the day for the Strait of Georgia you can assume the 20 knots will hit the worst and most exposed areas of the strait like the lighthouse But what is the variation for your area Will your more sheltered location be calm moderate or up near 20 knots Start by tracking the lighthouse If at 6 am entrance Island is measuring 5 knots and yoursquore calm thatrsquos a good sign If at 7 am entrance Island is still at 5 knots and yoursquore starting to experience a breeze be weary as the variation may not be high But if entrance Island is at 10 knots and yoursquore still calm you at least have a window and a growing one at that

And if at 8 am it is blowing 20 knots at entrance Island and yoursquore still calm thatrsquos a bit too fortuitous ndash thatrsquos early for a high wind and what the lighthouse is getting might be heading your way soon

In other words there is no definitive answer but there are good hints to take forward into a trip The one thing to not take forward is the expectation the current calm conditions will continue throughout the day

In some locations the regional weather wonrsquot be a factor at all For instance diurnal winds in inlets will generally trump the regional winds So weather stations may be reporting westerlies but you may have a southerly due to the arearsquos relationship between the land and water And you need not be in or near an inlet to get localized winds If you are experiencing windy conditions when surrounded by calm conditions at nearby weather stations you may be stuck in a wind pocket that could be limited to your channel or even your little bay Paddle a few miles turn a corner and you may be back in calm or at least manageable winds That isnrsquot to say you should endanger yourself to better your situation but it does mean you can be overly cautious and delay your trip unnecessarily

Conversely the calm conditions you are enjoying could simply be your particularly well-sheltered location Ignore the wider regional conditions and you could be in trouble when you head into nearby waters

2) PlanOnce you understand your weather

planning for it is usually fairly logical The most basic planning is if winds are low you probably have a good window for a paddle but if winds are high you may be best to stay off the water

Some planning can be done well in

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Sloppy rough conditions on the outer waters off Kyuquot Sound the nearby beach is pictured on page 31 The wind

transformed this from an idyllic paddle to a slog

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

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The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

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This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

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CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

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Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

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34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

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advance of your trip such as taking advantage of the prevailing wind For instance if you are planning a run down the outer coast of Vancouver Island and the forecast is for northwesterlies you would be best to travel north to south to enjoy a tailwind But donrsquot assume too much For instance north of Brooks Peninsula and up by Cape Scott the prevailing wind tends toward southerlies And south towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca westerlies may be too strong for some skills levels even in a favourable direction So tackle each problem in light of the local and regional conditions A good way to do this is to examine historic weather records for nearby weather stations for the time of year you plan to travel (with the caveat that past weather conditions do not guarantee future conditions)

Should your circuit be a circle you donrsquot have the luxury of choosing a direction as yoursquoll be against the prevailing wind at some point The planning then involves where you want the wind behind you Common sense would indicate this would be along the most exposed and dangerous portions of the coast but not always Take an example of a circumnavigation of Nootka Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island The outer side of the island is exposed with few refuges along the way The inner passages though are prone to diurnal wind funneling so the wind on the islandrsquos inner passages could be significantly stronger than the outer water So picture this scenario the forecast is for light to moderate winds If you travel clockwise along the exposed outer shoreline early in the day for the lightest

winds against you you can enter the protected inner water of esperanza Inlet and use the inevitable inflow winds to your advantage

Having gone around Nootka Island this way I can say it was a huge advantage allowing me to paddle a distance I would have otherwise not been able but I would not have done it that way had conditions been less favourable

A second basic step to a good plan is to paddle early and be off the water at noon or perhaps in the early afternoon if conditions are lighter A beginnerrsquos mistake is to have a leisurely morning and a late breakfast then to pack up camp and leave just as the dayrsquos winds are becoming brisk These people will have missed the best five hours of the dayrsquos paddling whereas those who launched at or near dawn could be off the water and have the camp set for the day possibly before experiencing so much as a ripple

Perhaps the most important aspect of planning is your contingencies On an extended trip make sure you have a backup campsite or pullout in mind no more than two hours away at any given point or less in exposed circumstances Should you not have a backup or not know the area well enough to pinpoint a safe haven at least know you are placing yourself at risk As conditions can go from calm to stormy in under an hour you should be prepared for that eventuality And if that is a circumstance yoursquore not sure you can manage you may want to plan a different trip

3) adaptIf the prevailing weather is

northwesterly and if the mornings are

supposed to be calm what happens if you are tearing down camp at dawn but begin to feel a brisk breeze upon your face and look out over the water to see chunky little whitecaps developing

This is the type of event that should set off alarm bells particularly if it is a change in the weather If yoursquove already been out for a week in a settled weather system and have experienced this very same morning pattern yoursquoll be in a much better situation to ignore this type of wind It may be a localized pre-dawn breeze developing much like an outflow or it may just be a symptom of the benign system in your region that happens to be kicking up morning winds (yes some good weather systems have afternoon calm periods and higher morning and evening winds Nothing is absolute)

But if you have been in calm weather at dawn for a few days the appearance of an early breeze should be a warning From there it means re-evaluating the forecasts and the weather station reports One tip is to look at conditions at nearby offshore buoys which often herald the arrival of systems before they hit the coast

If yoursquore still unsure the best decision is usually to wait You wonrsquot drown by staying at your campsite yoursquoll just be late One of the biggest factors in poor decisions is trying to meet artificial deadlines such as being back at work Monday These trips that go awry can usually be traced back to poor anticipation and planning either a person didnrsquot know the weather conditions or didnrsquot have a contingency once conditions changed Usually itrsquos both

A simple way to deal with bothersome

Weather by John Kimantas

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

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Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

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The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

Danuu

wwwDANUUcomDanuu PaddleSport Accessories

ee

three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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C

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

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email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

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Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

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The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

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Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

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WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

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wind conditions is to take advantage of alternatives One concept to consider is the option of a lee or an area sheltered from wind Sometimes this means simply staying near shore but if yoursquore travelling through an archipelago you may find shelter by paddling the other side of an island

Choosing a new destination for that day is another way to avoid a troublesome headwind Think of the Broken Group Islands with seven campsites scattered in various locations You can continue bull-headed towards that one campsite that lies directly in the path of the wind or you can turn sideways and head along a more sheltered route to a backup option

If you have no choice but to head upwind particularly up a channel or inlet consider the possibility of a jetstream This is where wind funnels along a portion of the channel They are hard to gauge as water-level sightlines are generally limited to about a kilometre in a kayak whereas channels can easily run six to 10 kilometres wide Often by staying near

shore you can see the jetstream in the form of whitecaps in the central channel The thing to consider is they are not always central and if yoursquore in a jetstream you might be able to avoid the worst of the wind by crossing the channel Therersquos a risk here as you may make a crossing through rough conditions for no benefit but if you learn to recognize certain land features you can place yourself strategically to avoid funnels For instance rounded shorelines lend themselves to funneling whereas sharp turns do not By approaching a lsquosharprsquo point on the lee you can often avoid several kilometres of strong winds as the land formation creates a dead spot

If you are experiencing unruly water conditions consider other factors beyond just wind This is especially significant if you are suffering choppy waves and whitecaps beyond what you should be getting for the amount of breeze One cause could be that the current is against the wind which generally leads to chop Another is broken shelving on the ocean

floor or steep shoreline that can create rebound waves or tumultuous water A solution is to head to deeper water or to simply wait till the current turns It is astounding what a difference waiting an hour or two can make to flatten out water conditions

So the wind may do what it wants to do when it wants to do it but usually you can also still do what you want to do as well ndash maybe just not when you might want to And the difference between a carefree run with the wind and a tiresome or even dangerous slog against it is often just the difference of a bit of anticipation planning and you guessed it adapting

nJohn Kimantas is editor of CoastampKayak

Magazine and author of the BC Coast Explorer and The Wild Coast book series His expertise has become long-distance paddling trips and he wrote this article after completing a 450-km trip to Princess Louisa Inlet in eight days (see page 8) a distance largely attributable to taking advantage of winds (with some bull-headedness thrown in)

Weather by John Kimantas

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

1-866-323-3525wwwautomarineca SINCE 1907

The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

Our boats are designed to travel by air land and sea

Go The Distance paddle with power and controlwith Canadian Hand Craftedhellip

BUY FACTORY DIRECT wwwnimbuspaddlescom infonimbuspaddlescom

designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

Danuu

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ee

three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

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Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

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VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

when deBatIng what makes the ideal kayak ardent kayakers will probably quibble

over details rudder or skeg hard or soft chine rocker or no rocker What theyrsquore unlikely to debate is the length Few will point to a kayak under 16 feet as an ideal

But there is a silent majority who have opted to go small The reasons are varied budget interest style of kayaking storage capacity or plain old practicality but the end result is that most of todayrsquos kayaks are in fact under 16 feet in length ndash and often considerably shorter

Given that this is such a large market segment the range of choices is huge The basic first decision is sit-on-top or sit-in After that there is a plethora of details to consider Herersquos a guide to wading through some sit-in options with an eye to what is or will be new in 2013

the starting point small rotosPelican has been at the forefront of

affordable plastic rec kayaks for years now with the most basic nothing more than a plastic shell CoastampKayak Magazine took a swipe at Pelican (Summer 2012) citing their kayaks in keeping entry-level kayakers from progressing up the ladder due to disillusionment with poor performance Consequently Pelican took it personally and mailed us the Liberty 100X It didnrsquot quite fit in an envelope but compared

to most kayaks it is envelope-sized Itrsquos not the smallest of the Pelican fleet that honour goes to the eight-foot Pursuit The Liberty 100X measures 10 feet and is part of the Pelican lsquopremiumrsquo line new for 2013

The Liberty 100X adds an array of thoughtful features that puts it a step up from the empty shells that compose most of this class of small rotomolded kayaks (called rotos for short or just plastic) Yoursquoll find front and rear quick-lock

hatches knee pads a back rest and a dry pouch But most interesting is the cockpit table which is a molded compartment in front of the cockpit complete with a day hatch a built-in dry bag and a bottle holder

After the frills though it is a kayak at its most basic It is not suited for a sprayskirt (and even if one could be adapted it is unlikely to be effective) Plus it lacks a bulkhead to keep water from flooding the kayak Instead there is foam for flotation and drain plugs This limits this kayak as with most in this class to exploring bays well away from swell surf or weather Tracking ndash the ability to stay straight while kayaking ndash is poor with wobble from paddle strokes adding to the chore of a long-distance trip

Most of these types of kayaks will wind up as explorers for yachts as they can be easily stowed to take up minimal space They are also ideal for garage or basement storage without filling the room The question is whether the handy size makes up for the limitations in performance

Rec boat warsOkay so maybe itrsquos not quite a war but be sure the market is heating up for the privilege of putting you in a small boat

The Liberty 100X on the bow of the CoastampKayak Magazine floating office Boats are an ideal location for kayaks this size

New Gear New Gear

The new line of lsquoSRrsquo rec

boats from Seaward

Kayaks offer a mix of

durability affordability

versatility and features

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

1-866-323-3525wwwautomarineca SINCE 1907

The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

Our boats are designed to travel by air land and sea

Go The Distance paddle with power and controlwith Canadian Hand Craftedhellip

BUY FACTORY DIRECT wwwnimbuspaddlescom infonimbuspaddlescom

designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

Danuu

wwwDANUUcomDanuu PaddleSport Accessories

ee

three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

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Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

In Canada

1-866-323-3525wwwautomarineca SINCE 1907

The worldrsquos most famous folding kayak Period

Our boats are designed to travel by air land and sea

Go The Distance paddle with power and controlwith Canadian Hand Craftedhellip

BUY FACTORY DIRECT wwwnimbuspaddlescom infonimbuspaddlescom

designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

step-up 1 slightly larger rotosTo graduate from the Pelicans the

best starting point for considering greater performance and features is probably the 12-foot range which offers considerably better tracking and potential performance One new series in this category is offered by Current Designs CD got its start here in British Columbia with high-end fibreglass touring kayaks notably the venerable Solstice series Now a brand name of Wenonah Canoes of Minnesota the full line encompasses some 40 styles with the Ketrel and Solara rotomolded series aimed at the entry-level recreational boat user

The Solara is made of the same basic plastic polyethylene but adds features such as bulkheads with the Solara 100 one of the few 10-footers with dry bulkheads Other models are the 120 and 135 (12 and 135 feet lengths) with the 120 and 135 also available in composite fibreglass Fibreglass will save weight and lighten your pocketbook costing roughly 25 times the price

The advantage of this line over the Pelicans is the expanded touring options given the bulkheads (though lacking on the 120) plus an optional rudder on the 135

step-up 2 small thermoformsThermoform kayaks donrsquot require the

time-consuming construction of fibreglass models and instead are essentially plastic cooked into shape in large ovens (think car bumpers) This makes them considerably cheaper to produce than fibreglass while lighter than rotomolded kayaks They also set a new class for durability though some will argue flex and strength are the

thermoformrsquos weaknessTwo small thermoforms both

produced in BC have set a standard for the industry and grace many of the hulls and decks of boats not adorned with Pelicans One option is Seaward Kayakrsquos Intrigue which has a clear view panel on the cockpit floor for viewing intertidal marine life At 10rsquo2rdquo and with a beam of 29rdquo it is not a performance model but weights 356 pounds compared to the Liberty 100X at 50 pounds ndash a significant difference

The other notable 10-footer is by Delta Kayaks It shaves off inches on the width but manages to increase stability thanks to the catamaran hull design This means excellent tracking and consequently less wasted effort Add a large storage area a deck stowage pod and an underwater viewing panel in the cockpit floor and you have a versatile day-tripper And yes

therersquos even a beverage holderstep-up 3 Larger thermoformsOnce within the 12-foot range the

options increase exponentially Here you can get into some more serious kayaking including the possibility of overnight trips ndash or at least longer day trips New in this range is the SR series from Seaward Kayaks manufactured here on Vancouver Island The 12-foot is the Pura and it begins to take on the more graceful sleek lines of its larger cousins that define the more elite kayak categories The Pura Halo 130 and Compass 140 all feature sealed bulkheads and hatches including a handy day hatch in front of the cockpit

The difference in performance is notable While each offers a degree of improvement as the model gets longer the SR-120 Pura is interesting on its own as a sports option After a lake test all

The Solara adds length and options in the Current Designsrsquo line of entry-level rec boats

New Gear New Gear

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

Danuu

wwwDANUUcomDanuu PaddleSport Accessories

ee

three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescomwwwbckayakscom(250)391-0331 nwcageartelusnet

Danuu

wwwDANUUcomDanuu PaddleSport Accessories

ee

three seemed ideal candidates for some whitewater testing That will have to wait but the good news is the potential is there ndash these stand to be great sports boats in addition to bay explorers and daytrippers An optional rudder for the SR-130 and SR-140 adds another degree of performance capability

More choices Browse 1030 kayak models online by a variety of criteria httpkayakscoastandkayakcom

Wrapping it up what we learnedMost rec boats are likely to be bought by

first-time or novice kayakers That doesnrsquot mean these boats canrsquot be enjoyed for years as intended Buyers should be aware of limitations though and itrsquos a shame to

buy a product designed to take you on the water but in a very restricted fashion extra features do add cost but once yoursquore in a slightly longer kayak equipped with a rudder and bulkheads you have the potential to go places and see things you might otherwise never see ndash one of the main reasons to kayak Of course therersquos no reason a rec boat canrsquot continue to serve its original function as a lighter less expensive and simpler option to move about and store while a second kayak can serve as a tourer Ardent kayakers will generally own a fleet to serve different purposes and the most sage among them will no doubt argue that there is no one best single kayak ndash not when there are so many purposes to be filled

New Gear

The Delta 10rsquos unique catamaran hull gives it a high level of stability and tracking for its size The thermoform construction also makes it a lighter alternative to rotomolded rec boats

Phot

ocou

rtesy

Delt

aKay

aks

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

SKGABC by Liam McNeil

as the kayak smashed upon the rocks with flecks of the hull drifting away in the waves I

asked myself how we had arrived in this predicament On paddling journeys we transition between land and ocean calm to wind into current or through surf As weather patterns change or we move from sheltered waters to energetic headlands we constantly adapt to changing conditions As in this situation it is during these transitions that accidents often occur

Our group left the campsite that morning for a day trip to explore some sheltered waters within the Broken Group Islands Two guests jet-lagged from a long journey to get to the area were placed into a double kayak A conscious choice was made to avoid the outer coast The route we were to follow took into account wind direction fetch and exposure to swell but even so it almost lead to disaster

Throughout the morning the waters remained glassy calm Only as we stopped for an early lunch did the first signs of the building winds start to rustle the branches around us A few moments later while the guests explored the beach a few drops of rain began After the warm summer morning the two individuals who were paddling the double kayak dallied in donning their rain gear Caught in the transition between weather patterns these now damp individuals would soon regret their wet clothing

As we got back on the water after lunch we soon realized the weather had changed dramatically The calm waters had been replaced by gusty winds and sheets of rain

The route we followed was very sheltered staying within a few metres of the lee side of islands However one small

channel exposed to the winds lay before our campsite We had to leave the relative calm of one island and transition into sizeable waves before reaching calm waters again

I counseled the group on what to expect stressing the importance of staying together and following directions from the guides The rain pounding down splashed around our boats creating an underlying din which muffled our words I led the group from our rest area around a rocky headland and into the full brunt of the building winds

The sea state increased dramatically as we transitioned into exposed conditions Pausing to monitor the group as they adjusted to the new and more challenging paddling I positioned myself between their boats and the rocky shoreline The kayaks at the lead of the group quickly learned to compensate for the increased sea state Since the other guide was coaching the double kayak I turned my attention back to the other boats under our charge

As the double kayak left the shelter of the island the wind caught the bow of the boat wrenching it to the side Instead of making a wide turn around the headland the boat proceeded directly towards the reefs

Through the sideways rain I turned to watch the double kayak wash up on the rocks The jagged shoreline met the soft white gelcoat of the boat The sound was audible even with the wind howling across my eardrums As the wave receded the kayak was left high-centred upon the barnacle-encrusted shoreline

For what seemed like an eternity the double scraped back and forth across the rocks The waves broadsiding the

Transitions at seaboat splashed across the deck of the scuttled kayak The other guide managed to manoeuvre close to the rocks attach a tow-line and with strength that outmatched her small frame forcibly dragged the boat from the rocks back into deep water The double kayak was damaged but thankfully still usable

Reflecting on the situation several transitions combined to produce this incident First the guests were fatigued after a long journey to the region Further the change from sun to rain caused the guests to become chilled Lastly the calm waters shifted into challenging seas Many factors are beyond our control but taking a kayak leadership course is an important tool in learning to perceive dangers Accidents happen but with training and experience one can work to mitigate those situations which can lead to hardship

nAfter ten years of guiding Liam McNeil

still looks forward to another ten He is a Level 3 Guide with Class 4 Waters Endorsement and executive director of SKGABC When not paddling he can be found enjoying the rain living in Tofino

A hard lesson learned from moody waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

many Instructors wouldnrsquot categorize edging with a low brace as a stroke

at all let alone a turning stroke ndash likely because it doesnrsquot rely on active propulsion or breaking from the paddle and because it generally isnrsquot formally taught as a turning stroke

The turn in question is really only the product of edging but edging with the addition of a stand-by brace for security

A sea kayak turns far more effectively when the boat is edged so that the hull is heeled over on an angle (as opposed to being flat on an even keel) To increase turning efficiency and create a tighter turning radius the boat can either be edged into the direction of the turn or away from the direction of the turn edging away from the turn yields the tightest turns but provides less opportunity for bracing

Two types of turns the lsquoforward sweep with edgingrsquo (Spring 2007) and lsquobow rudderrsquo (yet to come) place the paddler in a position edging away from the direction of the turn Both work very well But neither of these turns offers the maximum possible confidence for nervous edgers Instead try aggressively edging your kayak away from a turn while holding a low brace at the ready This way you can happily crank the kayak way over on edge safe in the knowledge that your low brace is immediately available for support should you need it

This turn relies on forward momentum (the paddle wonrsquot be generating any drive through the turn) so be sure to start off with plenty of forward speed Since the kayak will happily turn in either direction once set on edge be sure to initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep to help turn in the desired direction

If turning left you will be rolling your weight onto your right butt cheek and lifting your left knee A powerful forward sweep on your right side initiates the turn to your left

When less is moreEdging with a low brace

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Initiate the turn with a powerful forward sweep stroke

Place your paddle into a low brace position and roll the kayak onto its side edging away from the turn

Maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your paddle blade to keep it from diving

phot

os b

y Ro

chel

le R

elye

a

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experts to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

Instruction

Having completed the forward sweep stroke roll your knuckles down and raise your elbows assuming a low brace position on your right side so that the non-power face of the blade lightly contacts the waterrsquos surface It is essential to maintain a climbing angle on the leading edge of your blade to create lift and prevent the paddle from diving when it lightly skims across the water

Think of walking down a flight of stairs your descent is achieved with coordination and balance Running a hand lightly along the handrail is all that is required (support is instantaneously available should your balance falter)

Once you have lost your forward speed or achieved the turn required take the next stroke that best propels you on your way

This edging turn works beautifully on flat water and rewards paddlers with elegant and efficient turns In moving

water however it is better to use turns that provide support on the inside of the turn like the low brace lean turn (Summer 2008) or high brace lean turn (Winter 2007)

nAlex Matthew is CoastampKayak Magazinersquos

skills guru and author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters (Fox Chapel Publishing)

Skillset by Alex Matthews

Only skim your paddle lightly across the water for support loading the blade as little as possible ndash itrsquos the edging that provides the turning efficiency not the low brace

As your boat slows level out the kayak and take your next stroke

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

PeoPle often ask me why I paddle with ldquothat long skinny stickrdquo They are referring of

course to my Greenland kayak paddleThe Inuit of the Mackenzie Delta call

it a pautik (pow-tic) which translates to lsquodoublersquo and refers to the two blades Sometimes kayakers simply call it a lsquostickrsquo Greenland paddles are the result of some 6000 years of refinement and testing on the ocean making it one of the oldest tools to be tested to what might arguably be considered perfection

euro blades for sea kayaking meanwhile evolved from whitewater paddles in the 1970s

Inuit paddling is part of a colourful history and culture that involves skin-on-frame kayaks harpoons hunting seals and skills such as rolls and braces One of the classic sources of information about traditional kayaking is the book Greenland Kayaks by Harvey Golden which helps sort out the language of traditional kayaking The things that we call kayaks are lsquoqajaqsrsquo in West Greenland east Greenlanders prefer the term sarquit or sakkit which Harvey tells us translates to lsquoa means of wanderingrsquo

Advanced sea kayakers are pushing the boundaries of Greenland paddles into

whitewater conditions in tide races such as Skookumchuck (pictured above and on this issuersquos cover) and Surge Narrows (Summer 2012) These are the traditional domains of whitewater paddles but some of us choose to use long skinny pautiks instead just because we can

The art of hunting seals and other marine mammals from qajaqs developed first in Siberia and the Bering Strait about 6000 years ago The oldest qajaq artifacts to be found are a rib and part of a paddle dug out of the permafrost in Greenland dating back 3000 to 4000 years The paddle fragment was from a leaf-shaped paddle wider in the middle and tapering towards the ends An early Copper Inuit paddle meanwhile was spoon-shaped It would seem centuries of experimentation

and design by northern people in the life-and-death business of hunting on the ocean has honed the design of pautiks to the best possible design with wider paddles eliminated by the test of time

Modern kayaking originated in Britain by combining traditions from Greenland with whitewater traditions that originated in Germany and Austria

Hans W Pawlata an Austrian pioneer of the sport of whitewater kayaking became the first european to roll a kayak in 1927 a skill previously known only to the Inuit people

ldquoQuite contrary to the expectations of the old experienced paddler on 30 July 1927 I succeeded as the first european sportsman to right himself again after capsizing in a kayak Thus was the curse of the centuries-old eskimo secret broken and kayaking ceased to exist in name onlyrdquo

An extended paddle roll with a whitewater paddle is still referred to as a Pawlata roll

In 1955 German Herbert Baschin built the first river kayak from polyester resin and fibre cloth The ability to build fibreglass kayaks and roll them created the modern sport of whitewater kayaking Whitewater paddles also evolved with a design for maximum power in shallow

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

a kayaker makes good use of a Greenland paddle in the rapids at Skookumchuck narrows Photo by Jaime Sharp

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

SSTIKS and the Greenland paddling community

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

rocky water with wide blades with lots of surface area ndash a design necessary to brace in aerated river water and power across eddy lines

In 1959 University student Kenneth Taylor was sent by his professor to Greenland to study the kayak and Inuit culture While there emanuele Korneiliussen built Ken a skin-on-frame kayak Back in Britain this kayak morphed into a plywood kayak called the Anas Acuta In 1972 Frank Goodman started to commercially produce a fibreglass version of the Anas Acuta Forty years later Valley Sea Kayaks still produces the same model

In a 1960 photograph Ken Taylor is shown paddling the Igdlorssuit skin-on-frame kayak he brought back from Greenland He demonstrated it for his fellow members of the Scottish Hostellerrsquos Canoe Club and he is shown paddling with a Greenland paddle enthusiasts adopted the Greenland kayak from Greenland but kept the whitewater paddle from

Germany Why not the Greenland paddle Was this a case of resisting change Did they think that wider paddles were better for sea kayaking Or perhaps it was simply a case of Scottish frugality ndash it is likely the first sea kayakers were whitewater paddlers who continued to use the paddles they already owned

Since the marriage of the whitewater paddle to modern sea kayaking is an accident of history itrsquos fitting that marriage is now being challenged by the pautik The Greenlanders experimented with wide blades but eventually favoured long narrow Greenland paddles Is history repeating itself Time will tell

nGerhardt Lepp recently retired from IT

system building to work as a sea kayak guide and carpenter making pautiks and kayaks in his tipi workshop He has spent the last 20 years exploring the west coast by kayaking mountaineering hiking and running rivers He has been involved in search and rescue operations

for 12 years as a park ranger ski patroller ground search and rescue member and Coast Guard Auxiliary crew

Greenland Paddling by Gerhardt Lepp

One of the attractions of traditional kayaking is the community that surrounds it The South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium ( SSTIKS ) is an annual gathering of the Greenland clan in Washington State It is a model of community and family involvement ndasheveryone from kids to aging water warriors join in the fun The men dominate the process of building skin-on-frame qajaqs pautiks and harpoons Greenland rolling however is a level playing field for both men and women Some of todayrsquos most competitive rollers are female Unlike whitewater paddling upper body strength is not a major factor but rather rolling rewards core strength agility and grace Womenrsquos lower centre of gravity and higher buoyancy is also a distinct advantage

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

BC Coast Recreation Maps

BC Coast Explorer and Marine Trail Guide

What to get the kayaker who has everything Information

Gift Guide

This oversize map series offers details for six regions of British Columbia that the charts just wonrsquot tell you about launch sites rest beaches campsites regional highlights and more All maps are full colour both sides in highly detailed 22x36 inch size Areas includebull 114 Broken Group Islands Barkley Soundbull 140 North Coast Trail (Hiking Map)bull 160 Clayoquot Soundbull 564 Desolation Sound Discovery Islandsbull 630 Broughton Archipelago Johnstone Straitbull 690 Gulf Islands $995 each +shipping $250CDN$4US

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book a colourful and comprehensive guide book for the outer coast of Vancouver Island

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best kayaking territory from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visitingbull 100 BC Coast Explorer $3495+shipping $8CDN$12USSave on shipping Buy at the retailers advertising this issue

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

SubscriptionsBook Selection

335Freedom of the Seas teaches navigation sea state and weather$2495 + shipping

180The ultimate guide for exploring North and Central BC coast$2999 + shipping

185For exploring BCrsquos south coast and east Vancouver Island $3499 + shipping

330A handy large-format map guide for the West Coast of Vancouver Island $40 + shipping

Recreation map Shipping HST (12)

Book orders Shipping $8 Canada $12 US

$201 Year4 Issues $352 Years8 Issues Gift subscription

Canada and the US

Name _______________________________________________

ADDRESS ___________________________________________

CITY ________________________________________________

PROV STATE ________________COUNTRY _______________

POSTAL ZIP CODE ___________________________________

PHONE ______________________________________________

email ______________________________________________

CreDit CarD paymeNt

masterCard ViSa

Name on Card __________________________________

Credit Card No _________________________________

expiry Date _______ __________CVV ______________

Signature _______________________________________

Call 1-866-984-6437 bull Buy online at wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonlineMail a check (or cheque) to Wild Coast Publishing PO Box 24 Stn A Nanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

114 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

140 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

160 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

564 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

630 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

690 $995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

100 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

335 $2495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

180 $2995 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

185 $3495 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

330 $4000 + $_________ + $__________ = $_________

TOTAL $_________

The gift that lasts a year Give as a gift and wersquoll send a free West Coast gift card with a personalized messageYour message

Shipping HST (12)

HST does not apply for US orders

Our goal is a comprehensive line of titles to help you kayak the British Columbia coast ndash our backyard and favourite kayaking destination

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine WINTER 2012

the early mornIng aIr was cool and crisp I was taking my time tying the kayak on the

roof of the car everything was pointing to a gorgeous few days ahead Nicolas my three-year-old son hopped along on the sidewalk in my direction pretending to be a bunny

ldquoWhy are you putting the kayak on the ceiling of the carrdquo he asked his voice trembling rhythmically from the bouncing

ldquoBecause we are going kayaking for a few daysrdquo I replied cheerfully while tying a truckerrsquos hitch to secure the bow The second question came disarmingly simple ldquoBut why Papardquo

I was pinching the tensioned rope through the bight when I froze in my track Why are we going paddling How do I even begin to answer that question let alone in words that would make sense to a three year old How do I communicate to him my belief that acquiring the skills to travel lightly in the wilderness might be one of the most significant life-enriching things he can ever learn That kayaking as a chosen mode of travel in nature is an enlightened decision It is choosing to wilfully slow down and move in a more natural way under your own steam It is choosing to accept that the weather and the tides might slow you down or change your plans altogether It is understanding that just because we could go faster with an outboard doesnrsquot mean that we should It is choosing a simpler slower way that

But why dadReflections by Andre-Jean Maheu

leads to a deeper connection with the environment It is being a natural part of the landscape as opposed to a mere noisy visitor

But this is only scratching the surface Paddling leads to a better understanding and a growing love of the environment we come from Living in the city it is too easy to forget that we depend on nature when our daily lives are so disconnected from it We are fortunate enough to live in one of the most spectacular places on the planet and I have a duty to educate my kids to become stewards of this land to never take for granted the wilderness that surrounds us A duty to show them what they need to know to truly deeply love this planet

Kayaking does thatSea kayaking is a great way to focus our

attention outward While self absorption seems to be taking over our world by storm it is refreshing to have the time and opportunity to bring our awareness to the creatures around the boat as opposed to the ones sitting in it There is no question that our planet is struggling to keep up

with the demands of an ever-expanding human race that seems to get greedier with every new generation We need to make sure that as many kids as possible grow up to become paddlers That they experience nature firsthand so they will learn to love it and protect it

Pain creeped between my index and thumb from holding the tensioned rope and slowly brought me back from my mental wanderings Nicolas had stopped hopping and was now looking at me expectantly I needed a quick answer so I settled for the only thing that really mattered for the time being

ldquoBecause kayaking is a lot of funrdquo I said ldquoThere will be crabs and jellyfish and sea stars and sealsrdquo

Nicolas considered my answer and satisfied bounced away Then like the proverbial dad I couldnrsquot help but add ldquoIt will be good for yourdquo

nAndre-Jean Maheu is a paramedic a

wilderness emergency medical technician paddler a ski patrol training coordinator and avalanche forecaster at Grouse Mountain in Vancouver

Help us stay bright greenDid you know 65 of newsstand magazines are destroyed unread Thatrsquos 29 billion magazines enough to circle the globe 20 times CoastampKayak Magazinersquos goal is 100 readership of each copy we print We monitor 300+ distribution points for extras If wersquove missed checking on you please let us know of unread copies at your location We can divert them to where theyrsquore needed

read us carbon-neutral Every issue of CoastampKayak Magazine is available free online with no passwords or registration required Subscribe online to get advance notice to read us before the rest of the world Sign up at wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml epaddle with us Subscribe to our e-newsletter for great offers and information

TurningthePagewwwgreenamericaorgPDFWhitePaperMagazinespdf

pho

to By

Ro

Byn

Mo

nk

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

WINTER 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

NanaimoRETAIL CENTRE

250-760-00441-866-760-0011

3200 Island Highway

CourtenayRETAIL CENTRE

Next to Starbucks250-871-0264

3-1661 Cliffe St

DuncanRETAIL CENTRE

Next to London Drugs250-597-2727

108-109 Trans-CanadaRETAIL CENTREPort Alberni

250-723-22121-800-325-3921

5161 River Road

VANCOUVER ISLANDrsquoS PREMIER OUTDOOR STORES

More than just a kayak store

More gear More selection More locations

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED

When your life depends on your equipment second best just isnrsquot good enough Thatrsquos why I chose the Passat G3 from Seaward Kayaks

-Wave Vidmar World Class Explorer

What are you waiting for

w w w s e a w a r d k a y a k s c o m

Go Ahead Take It ALL In

Seaward is proudly supporting Wave Vidmar as he paddles SOLO

from California to Hawaii the largest open ocean crossing

in a traditional kayak - EVER

Follow Waversquos progress live at

Soul-Stirring Design

Breath-Taking Performance

Unmatched Heritage

right here in North America for over 25 yrs and countingright here in North America

for over 25 yrs and counting

100 HAND CRAFTED 100 HAND CRAFTED