GEAR GUIDE- GUIDE PICK -

- 2012 -

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As climbers, we'd never trust our lives to mediocre stuff. Our name says it all: Whittaker Mountaineering. We concentrate on testing, selecting, and offering the best mountain trekking and climbing gear on the planet. We take on the hard work to simply outfitting for you.

WHITTAKER GUARANTEE

PETER WHITTAKER-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO

ED VIESTURS-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO

DAVE HAHN-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO

MELISSA ARNOT-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO

SETH WATERFALL-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO

BRENT OKITA-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO

JJ JUSTMAN-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO

LINDEN MALLORY-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO-BIO

GUIDE PICK _ 2012GUIDES

GUIDE PICK _ 2012

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PATAGONIA SUPER CELL JACKET

Patagonia’s lightest weight shell. Streamlined, durable and super packable, it’s ideal emergency rainwear for any light and fast endeavor.

12.8 oz

FIRST ASCENT BC-200 JACKET $199.00A 3-layer, waterproof/breathable hard shell with 20K/25K performance and complete welded-seam construction that’s under 11 oz.

2.5 oz

FIRST ASCENT RAINIER STORM SHELL PANT

Use together with First Ascent’s Rainier Storm™ Shell jacket for complete rain, wind and snow protection while climbing or hiking in wet weather.

14.46 oz

ARC’TERX BETA AR PANT $350.00Focused on streamlined performance with minimal weight and bulk. The ultimate in packable four-season protection.

1 lb 1.3 oz

MARMOT MINIMALIST JACKET

Rainwear for the dedicated outdoors person, redesigned with a less-bulky, trimmer fit for streamlined, rainy-day play.

15 oz

Super lightweight and waterproof, ideal as an easily packable emergency storm jacket in an alpine environment.

12.1 oz

MOUNTAIN LOGIC™WEATHER PROTECTIONYour rain shell should be bombproof and protect you from the most gnarly weather. Look for waterproof jackets that boast a 2.5 or 3-layer fabric and DWR (durable water repellent) finish to shed water while allowing some breathabil-ity. Manufacturers will use GORE-TEX® or their own proprietary fabrics for shells, and most get the job done. Look for seam-taped and waterproof zippers in the rain shell garment construction to maximize protection.

WEIGHT AND PACKABILITYYou always pack a rain shell for a climb but may never wear it if conditions are favorable. There’s a balance to strike between the features and weight of your rain shell and its packability. Our Guide Team errs on the side of simple and lightweight shells to maximize packability or make for an overall lighter load. Rain shells have become radically lighter in recent years, but some of these lighter fabrics may not be best if you’re hiking through heavy brush or scraping against rock. For those more severe climbing environments, a slightly heavier fabric may be more appropriate.

FEATURES AND FITEveryone has different preferences for features like pockets, buttons, hoods and elastic bands, but our Guide Team says “less is more.” Zippers should always have a purpose like pocket access, releasing heat, allowing room for boots or making bio-breaks more convenient. For mountaineering and ski mountaineering pursuits you want at least a 3/4 or full-side zip pant so you can get the pants on and off easily over large boots and crampons. Pockets should always be ergonomic, easy to access and limited to functional use. Too many pockets can hurt packability. With jackets, look for hoods that are compatible with your helmet.

$319.00ARC’TERYX ALPHA SL JACKET

$249.00

$199.00

$200.00

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HARD SHELLS

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“You don’t want to skimp on performance when the weather is nuking and your rain shell is your only protec-tion against the elements.” - Peter Whittaker

GUIDE PICK _ 2012

FIRST ASCENT PEAK XV DOWN JACKET $349.00This is what you reach for when the guides say “Parkas on!” during a rest stop and it’s 5°F below zero. Built to withstand the harshest conditions on the highest mountains.

1 lb 10.34 oz

MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR NILAS JACKET$500.00The absolute pinnacle of modern, lightweight insulation. Designed for speed-alpinist Ueli Steck with super-warm 850-fill down and an extremely lightweight version of our revolutionary AirShield™ Elite fabric.

1 lb 6 oz

FIRST ASCENT IGNITER JACKET$199.00Lightweight, remarkably warm and built with PrimaLoft® for colder temps. The ideal option when you need a jacket to protect you from icy blasts without being too bulky.

1 lb 3.73 oz

ARC’TERYX ATOM LT JACKET$219.00Insulated, mid-layer jacket with wind and moisture resistant outer face fabric; Ideal as a layering piece for cold weather activities.

11.5 oz

MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR GHOST WHISPERER $300.00Check on this. Product doesnt make sense for this catagory/price

4 lb 15 oz

This instant warm-up is the ideal weight for layering or packing. The adaptable design features an athletic cut that allows this critical insulator to function expertly as a mid, outer or emergency layer.

9.8 oz

$199.00FIRST ASCENT MICROTHERM DOWN HOODIE

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M/W[ [WOMENS[ [FIRST ASCENT BC MICROTHERM DOWN$???.00Combining the microchannel construction of the MicroTherm™ Down Shirt into the lining of this fully waterproof and breathable shell rated to 20K/20K, makes it possibly the lightest, warmest waterproof jacket on earth.

1 lb .32 oz

FIRST ASCENT MICROTHERM SHIRT$???.00This instant warm-up is the ideal weight for layering or packing. The adaptable design features an athletic cut that allows this critical insulator to function expertly as a mid, outer or emergency layer.

8.3 oz

“You want a little bit of wiggle room in the toe area so you don’t jam your toes on the descents, which can be very painful. A boot is not supposed to fit tight and snug like a ski boot. It should be comfortably snug like a warm blanket on a cold Montana night.” - J.J. Justman

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INSULATION

GUIDE PICK _ 2012

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FIRST ASCENT DOWNLIGHT SWEATER $???.00800 fill power premium northern European goose down. The ripstop shell is soft to the touch and water-resistant with a DWR coating.

13.39 oz

FIRST ASCENT DOWNLIGHT HOODIE$???.00Full-zip front for added versatility and convenience. Ultra packable and warm, the hooded iteration of the Downlight Sweater will protect your head in cold environments.

13.76 oz

FIRST ASCENT IGNITER PANT $???.00Perfect for staying warm at base camp or for the final summit push on cold days. These pants also excel as extra insulation for cold-weather sports like winter-camping.

20.10 oz

MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR COMPRESSOR PANT$175.00Lightweight and highly compressible, this insulated backcountry overpant has reinforced seat and knees for durability in ice and snow.

1 lb 5 oz

FIRST ASCENT GUIDE GLOVE$119.00The Pittards® leather is the highest-quality available anywhere — water-repellent and highly abrasion-resistant. The ultrafine merino wool-blend lining and PrimaLoft® insulation keep your fingers warm.

? oz

Carefully layered Primaloft® gives the Expedition uncompromising warmth for expeditions to high, cold places.

8.6 oz

MOUNTAIN LOGIC™CAPACITYRainier Mountaineering Inc. recommends a 70+ liter backpack for a Rainier Summit Climb and our Guide Team agrees. When in doubt, go bigger. You can always make a big pack small but you can never make a small pack big.

FITWhen you’re carrying a 45-lb. load several miles to Camp Muir for a Rainier summit, you want to know that you’re maximizing comfort with the right pack fit. The truth is, packs are like shoes: Everyone is going to have different fit preferences. It is important to try as many packs as you can in a store like ours. Frame-types and adjustment points vary and affect weight distribution, so start by trying a pack that fits your torso correctly and then compare from there.

SIMPLICITYA pack is meant to carry gear, not be the next international space station. Get a well designed but simple pack that covers the basics: main compartment, ice axe loops and lid. You might think you like extra features, but consider ease of use when you are cold, high up and tired. Keep it sweet and simple.

VERSATILITYLook for a pack that can handle being packed to the brim but can also ride well empty. Look for designs that compress easily for the final stretches on summit day. There is no need for extra bells and whistles.

ONE PACK, NOT TWOThere’s no need for an additional summit pack for a Rainier climb and many other multi-day climbs. Drop the unneeded weight at camp before your summit approach.

CHOOSING A PACK FOR MT.RAINIER[

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“You want a pack that you can grow to love and get very efficient at using.” - Melissa Arnot

$110.00MARMOT EXPEDITION MITT

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GUIDE PICK _ 2012

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FIRST ASCENT 18K JACKET

A thermal soft shell with extra warmth for cold days, it’s still exceptionally breathable, so you stay cool on the descent, long after the sunrise and the summit.

1 lb 5.12 oz

MAMMUT ULTIMATE HOODY$259.00Fashionably-cut WINDSTOPPER® Soft Shell hooded jacket that can be worn with a helmet

11.29 oz

MARMOT ROM JACKET

This zonally constructed jacket uses air permeable Marmot M2 softshell and GORE® WINDSTOPPER® fabrics to create an incredibly comfortable, breathable garment that’s also windproof and highly water-resistant.

1 lb 2 oz

MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR KEPLAR JACKET $400.00This soft shell jacket has sonically welded seams and is totally waterproof. The "always-on" DryQ Elite technology starts working immediately to keep you dry on the inside as well as outside.

1 lb 7 oz

Technical pants with a slim fit, designed for mountaineering, backcountry touring and ice climbing. They're the perfect all-mountain pants for work and play.

13.76 oz

MOUNTAIN LOGIC™WEATHER PROTECTIONSoft Shells bridge the gap between fleece and rain shells and have become a fleece replacement for many because of their ability to provide better weather protection and versatility. They should be a durable outer layer that offers wind protection and water-resistance in light precipitation or a mid layer when the freezing rain or snow is coming down hard in low temperatures. Look for soft shells that boast maximum wind protection and are considered “windproof,” a relative term from brand to brand, and “water resistant,” meaning the shell can shed light snow and rain.

FEATURES AND FITSoft shells should fit should be close to body, not baggy, to maximize protection and should allow for fleece and base layers to fit comfortably underneath without movement restriction. Pockets should be simple at the chest and sides. Some soft shells will boast draw cords to help seal the fit. If you’re a high-altitude climber, make sure pockets are compatible with your harness position and make sure hoods are helmet compatible.

BREATHABILITY AND DEXTERITYBreathable fabric is a key quality of soft shells. You should be able to put in labor in a soft shell without feeling like you’re boiling in the jacket. Soft shells should be significantly more breathable than rain shells and come in two primary builds to achieve levels of breathability and weather protection. Membrane-equipped softshells offer greater rain and wind protection at the expense of some breathability. Stretch-woven soft shells breathe better for aerobic activities, but don’t protect from the elements as well.

$249.00

$185.00

$179.00

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SOFT SHELLS

FIRST ASCENT MOUNTAIN GUIDE LITE PANT

Designed for speed-alpinist Ueli Steck, this is the one pant for every alpine activity—minimal in design with maximum stretch.

13.8 oz

$150.00MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR WARLOW PANT

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“When performing a high-exertion activity like climbing, you do not want to burn up with body heat, but you also want protect against cold and wind. A soft shell is an ‘action suit’ built to breathe and provide a level of protection.” - Seth Waterfall

TIPS FOR CHOOSING A SOFTSHELL[

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SOFT SHELLS

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GUIDE PICK _ 2012

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KOFLACH ARCTIS EXPE

Designed for the coldest climbing conditions: particulary suitable for high altitudes, low temperatures and expeditions.

2 lb 13.5 oz

SCARPA PHANTOM GUIDE $549.00Redefining mountain performance, this boot is suitable for challenging the most technical routes in cold climates, whether ice cragging or in the high mountains.

1 lb 15.7 oz

LA SPORTIVA NEPAL EVO

This boot is excellent for colder days where you need lots of support and protection on technical long endeavors.

2 lb 3.7 oz

LA SPORTIVA SPANTIK$750.00The Spantik is perfect for 6-7000 meter peaks or anywhere that you need a toasty warm performance fit.

2 lb 12.5 oz

LA SPORTIVA BARUNTSE

When the conditions are cold and high the Baruntse offers a hospitable climate to keep your feet warm and dry.

2 lb 12.7 oz

Light weight waterproof hiking boot built for your every day trekking adventures.

1 lb 8.34 oz

MOUNTAIN LOGIC™GET THE RIGHT SIZETight mountaineering boots are a recipe for discomfort, decreased circulation, and potential frostbite. Size climbing boots at least a half size up from your regular shoe size, and consider bumping up a full size. Make sure there's enough length so that your toes don't jam forward on descents, which is half of the climb. Test for this by lacing boots up snug, and kick the toe of the boot behind you. Your toes should not touch the front of the boot.

BREAK THEM INYou will want to test out your boots and break them in before you go on any big climbs. You will be living in your boots on the mountain so make sure you know that your boot fits and feels good. Take them out as much as you can on some short hikes and try to get on some hills. This is where you will notice awkward pressure points and hot spots. Wear the same sock combination you will on your climb. The more time you log on your boots in town, or on small hikes, the more comfortable you will be on the mountain.

TRY BEFORE YOU BUYThere’s no better way to determine which boot is best for you than renting. We buy our inventory of rental mountaineering boots new every year. If you’re not sure which boot fit is right for you, visit rent.whittakermountaineering.com to reserve mountaineering boots you’re considering for purchase for your next climb.

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$225.00/$220.00ASOLO FUGITIVE/STYNGER

$429.00

$510.00

$625.00

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BOOTS

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“You want a little bit of wiggle room in the toe area so you don’t jam your toes on the descents, which can be very painful. A boot is not supposed to fit tight and snug like a ski boot. It should be comfortable like a warm blanket on a cold Montana night.” - J.J. Justman

BOOTS

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GUIDE PICK _ 2012

BLACK DIAMOND RAVEN PRO ICE AXE$99.95Black Diamond's lightweight mountaineer-ing axe. Built with an aluminum shaft and a compact investment-cast stainless steel head and spike, it provides all-around performance.

13 oz

GRIVEL G1 PLUS SA ICE AXE$99.95G1 is a very light ice axe for classical alpinism that still has all the characteristics of a Grivel ice axe: hot forged, one piece head that provides maximum strength and minimal weight.

16 oz

BLACK DIAMOND VENOM ADZE$149.95The ultimate hybrid axe for technical couloirs and rugged alpine terrain, the Black Diamond Venom bridges the gap between classic piolet and technical ice tool.

1 lb 3 oz

JULBO EXPLORER $120.00Julbo’s top-of-the-line mountaineering sunglass, the Explorer is designed to perform superiorly in high altitude environments, where mountaineers are overly susceptible to eye damage from sun and reflections.

JULBO DOLGAN$65.00A versatile, lightweight mountaineering sunglass, the Dolgan integrates high quality protection and current style. Features removable side shields and two lens choices.

The ELIOS helmet is durable and offers efficient protection against impact with its ABS shell and polystyrene foam liner. It is entirely adjustable and adapts to all head shapes.

10.58 oz

$65.95PETZL ELIOS/ELIA HELMET

M/W[ [BLACK DIAMOND HALF DOME HELMET$59.95The Half Dome is an all-purpose workhorse ideal for everything from trad cragging to alpine expeditions.

11 oz

BLACK DIAMOND CONTACT STRAP$139.95Designed for ice and snow travel, the lightweight Black Diamond Contact crampon is ideal for mountaineers, skiers and hikers.

1 lb 13 oz

“You want a little bit of wiggle room in the toe area so you don’t jam your toes on the descents, which can be very painful. A boot is not supposed to fit tight and snug like a ski boot. It should be comfortably snug like a warm blanket on a cold Montana night.” - J.J. Justman

GEAR

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GUIDE PICK _ 2012

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GRIVEL G12 CRAMPONS$175.00A classic 12-point crampon designed for general mountaineering, alpinism, mixed ice and rock climbing, and moderate waterfall routes.

1 lb 14.6 oz

BLACK DIAMOND SERAC CRAMPONS$169.95The Black Diamond Serac is a versatile 12-point crampon for alpine climbing featuring our lightweight stainless steel design.

2 lb 1 oz

$44.95The Momentum AL gives climbers of any discipline the same comfort, ventilation and durability that Black Diamond harnesses are known for, at a price fit for dirtbags and new climbers alike.

12 oz

BLACK DIAMOND COULOIR HARNESS$54.95Packable to the size of a soup can that easily stows away in a jacket pocket, the superlight Couloir harness is designed to be the essential skiing and mountaineering harness.

8 oz

BLACK DIAMOND CONTOUR ELLIPTIC/COMPACT$129.95The Black Diamond Contour Elliptic Trekking Pole is equally adept on snow, dirt, rock and any other trail surface you'll encounter.

1 lb 4 oz

The Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Cork features 100% carbon fiber shafts, a super-comfortable natural cork grip, and dual FlickLock adjustments for total customiza-tion on the trail.

1 lb

$149.95BLACK DIAMOND ALPINE CARBON CORK

GEAR

“You want a little bit of wiggle room in the toe area so you don’t jam your toes on the descents, which can be very painful. A boot is not supposed to fit tight and snug like a ski boot. It should be comfortably snug like a warm blanket on a cold Montana night.” - J.J. Justman

PETZL TIKKA XP 2 HEADLAMP$54.95This headlamp is equipped with a white high-output LED and a red LED. The white LED delivers 80 lumens in maximum mode and lights up to 68 meters.

3.1 oz

Tracker DTS is the easiest and best-selling beacon on the market because of its rapid processor and simple user interface. A real-time, digital display shows both direction and distance with bright red LEDs.

13.6 oz

$289.95BACK COUNTRY ACCESS TRACKER D.T.S

BLACK DIAMOND MOMENTUM AL HARNESS

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GUIDE PICK _ 2012

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BLACK DIAMOND MISSION 75 $239.95An expedition-sized gear hauler built for long approaches and multi-day snow routes like Denali's West Buttress.

3 lb 14 oz

FIRST ASCENT ALCHEMIST 30/40L $139.00/$199.00An expandable alpine pack for big objectives, the Alchemist 40L (patent pending) expands easily to 55-liters when hauling heavy loads or cleaning camps after a summit push.

4 lbs

MOUNTAIN HARWEAR SOUTH COL 70 $270.00Roomy, light and versatile, this is a one-pack solution for mountaineering expeditions on big peaks around the world.

3 lb 12 oz

MOUNTAIN HARWEAR BMG 105 $350.00This remarkably light expedition load hauler comfortably handles the heavy loads carried on peaks like Denali and Aconcagua.

5 lb 3 oz

OSPREY AETHER 85 $299.00This large and versatile pack has been utilized for everything from thru-hikes of the PCT to getting to the summit of Everest.

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This large and versatile pack has been utilized for everything from thru-hikes of the PCT to getting to the summit of Everest.

4 lb 15 oz

MOUNTAIN LOGIC™Simplicity and VersatilityA pack is meant to carry gear, not be the next international space station. Get a well designed but simple pack that covers the basics: main compartment, ice axe loops and lid. You might think you like extra features, but consider ease of use when you are cold, high up and tired. Keep it sweet and simple.

Features and FitWhen you’re carrying a 45-lb. load several miles to Camp Muir for a Rainier summit, you want to know that you’re maximizing comfort with the right pack fit. The truth is, packs are like shoes: Everyone is going to have different fit preferences. It is important to try as many packs as you can in a store like ours. Frame-types and adjustment points vary and affect weight distribution, so start by trying a pack that fits your torso correctly and then compare from there.

VersatilityLook for a pack that can handle being packed to the brim but can also ride well empty. Look for designs that compress easily for the final stretches on summit day. There is no need for extra bells and whistles. There’s no need for an additional summit pack for a Rainier climb and many other multi-day climbs. Drop the unneeded weight at camp before your summit approach.

$289.00OSPREY ARIEL 75

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PACKS

“You want a pack that you can grow to love and get very efficient at using.” - Melissa Arnot

TIPS FOR CHOOSING A PACK[

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30027 SR 706 E, PO BOX W, ASHFORD, WA 98304 / TEL 800-238-5756 / FAX 360-569-2982www.whittakermountaineering.com

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