WHERE San Diego Magazine Winter 2012

WINTER 2012 WHERESD.COM

WINTER 2012 WHERESD.COM

San DiegoSan DiegoSan Diego

NORTH COUNTY RESTAURANTS TO TRY TONIGHT

CLASSICAL LOVERS

GUIDE

SAVVIER SOUVENIRS

PGA TOURS

FARMERSINSURANCE

OPEN

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NEW UPNORTH

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DISCOVER THE MAGIC!

WHERE SAN DIEGO (Sept & Dec Issues) - SingleJob #:35088_z1080190(sep) 35106_z1110088 (dec)TRIM: 8.125 x 10.875 BLEED: (.125) 8.375 X 11.125 SAFETY/LIVE AREA: (.25) 7.625 X 10.375Art Dir: matt(x:xxxx) Writer: taylor(x:7677) Coord: Amanda K (x:1331) Production: diana (x:5635)

The best brands, the biggest selection, plus 1O% off* for visitors.

Macys invites you to experience why we are The Worlds Most Famous Store. With top designer names and legendary special events Macys is a must-see destination! And, when youre here, be sure to stop by the Visitor Center on the 3rd Level to pick up your Macys Visitor Savings Pass*, good for 10% off* thousands of items throughout the store!

For more information or to obtain a Macys 10% Visitor Savings Pass, call us at 1-877-797-7227, email us at [email protected] or visit www.VisitMacysUSA.com

Macys Horton Plaza 160 Horton Plaza San Diego, CA 92101 619-645-3284

*Restrictions apply. Valid I.D. required. Details in store.

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organic raW Vegetables, sun-dried toMato Pistou gele, black garlic, PuMPernickel.

let us craft a unique dining experience just for you. theres no written menu; rather, your server

will gather details about your preferences and the kitchen will do the rest. our culinary team

will build a completely spontaneous custom menu and keep sending out fresh, bold creations

until you wave the white flag.

kitchen1540.coM

lauberge del Mar 1540 caMino del Mar 866 | 501 9770

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DISCOVER THE MAGIC!

WHERE SAN DIEGO (Sept & Dec Issues) - SingleJob #:35088_z1080190(sep) 35106_z1110088 (dec)TRIM: 8.125 x 10.875 BLEED: (.125) 8.375 X 11.125 SAFETY/LIVE AREA: (.25) 7.625 X 10.375Art Dir: matt(x:xxxx) Writer: taylor(x:7677) Coord: Amanda K (x:1331) Production: diana (x:5635)

The best brands, the biggest selection, plus 1O% off* for visitors.

Macys invites you to experience why we are The Worlds Most Famous Store. With top designer names and legendary special events Macys is a must-see destination! And, when youre here, be sure to stop by the Visitor Center on the 3rd Level to pick up your Macys Visitor Savings Pass*, good for 10% off* thousands of items throughout the store!

For more information or to obtain a Macys 10% Visitor Savings Pass, call us at 1-877-797-7227, email us at [email protected] or visit www.VisitMacysUSA.com

Macys Horton Plaza 160 Horton Plaza San Diego, CA 92101 619-645-3284

*Restrictions apply. Valid I.D. required. Details in store.

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You create Your dining destinY, we provide the adventure.

(change is good.)

organic raW Vegetables, sun-dried toMato Pistou gele, black garlic, PuMPernickel.

let us craft a unique dining experience just for you. theres no written menu; rather, your server

will gather details about your preferences and the kitchen will do the rest. our culinary team

will build a completely spontaneous custom menu and keep sending out fresh, bold creations

until you wave the white flag.

kitchen1540.coM

lauberge del Mar 1540 caMino del Mar 866 | 501 9770

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where San Diego Winter 2012

wheretraveler.com Get the city buzz from WHERE editors worldwide online and on your smartphone.

the guide34 DININGRestaurants by cuisine and neighborhood

49 ENTERTAINMENTFestivals, performing arts and sports

53 ATTRACTIONS + MUSEUMSLandmarks, theme parks and exhibitions

56 SHOPPING The best retail destinations

57 NIGHTLIFE Hot clubs, lounges and cocktail bars

58 TOURS + TRANSPORTGetting out, getting around 60 MAPSNavigate the county

city tours 18 Downtown 20 la Jolla 22 beach Cities 24 uptown 26 North Coast 28 balboa park

ALSO INSIDE 3 HOT DATES 32 GOLF GUIDE 64 30 THINGS WE LOVE

ON THE COVER

With an emphasis on seafood served up with a side of spectacular ocean views, Flavor Del Mar is one of a handful of exciting new eateries recently opened in North County. Flip to p. 12 to find out more.

CONNECT WITH US ONLINE

Flavor Del Mar12

where now4 Dining + Drinks The chef/mixologist team at Saltbox is doing something new in the Gaslamp. Crazy or creative? You decide. Plus: Stacked takes mall food to a whole different dimension, and Green Flash Brewing Co. goes big with a new 45,000-square-foot brewery and tasting room.

6 Shopping Do better than keychains and shot glasses with these worthy souvenirs. Also: Product Porch takes over MCASDs gift shop in a limited engagement.

8 Where to Find It Zoology-inspired fashions are one of the seasons hottest trends.

features12 Northern Lights San Diegos sleepy North County is suddenly a hotbed of culinary activity. We review three trendy spots you might want to try tonight. BY NEAL ALEXANDER AND NINA GARIN

16 Classically Inclined Winter in S.D. is a classical music lovers dream, from epic new operas to our century-old symphony. BY VALERIE SCHER

WINTER 2012 WHERE SAN DIEGO 1

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ESCAPE THE HOTEL AND SEE THE TRUE SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

START YOUR SAN DIEGO E XPERIENCE AT W YL AND GALLERIES

Enjoy the Pacifi c from our beautiful Seaport Village location featuring the ocean and conservation-themed art of Wyland.

Wyland Galleries | 855 W. Harbor Drive, #52 | San Diego, CA 92101Gallery Hours: Open Daily, 10 AM 9 PM | 800-WYLAND-5

www.wyland.com

Follow Wyland on Visit Wyland Galleries San Diego and mention this ad for a free Wyland print.

Sea of Turtles Original oil painting by Wyland 2011.

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On the Web: WhereSD.compublisher Jeff Levy eDiTOr Maya KrothArT DireCTOr Bree Berri

ADVerTisiNG DireCTOr Nicole BordgesMArKeTiNG DireCTOr Audrey Nimura

AssOCiATe ArT DireCTOr Heidi Schwindt

prODuCTiON ArTisT Ryan Furuya

CONTribuTiNG ArT DireCTOr Carol Wakano

CONTribuTiNG WriTers

Neal Alexander, Nina Garin, Ashley Morrow Hermsmeier

CONTribuTiNG phOTOGrAphers

Rich Cook, Amy K. Fellows, Bjarne G. Jensen, Rebecca Morquecho, Edwin Santiago, Brett Shoaf, Ashok Sinha, Ian White

ACCOuNT MANAGers

Joanna McLean, Laura Renner, Heather Howard-Heintz, Sara Kemp, Mali Mochow, Laura Napolitano, Scott OHanlonCirCulATiON MANAGer Jordan FraserprODuCTiON MANAGer Dawn Kiko ChengWeb MANAGer Christina Xenos

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Leanne Killian, Beth Moline, Christine Noriega, Sarah Trainor

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ViCe presiDeNT Of NATiONAl sAles

Rick Mollineaux 202.463.4550

hONOrArY presiDeNT Ted Levy

where San Diego 3990 Old Town Ave., suite b200san Diego, CA 92110phone: 619.260.5599 fax: 619.260.5598

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plan ahead for your next visit to san Diegosubscribe to where: single copy $4, 4 issues $16. Contact: Jordan fraser, phone: 619.260.5599, e-mail: [email protected]

2011 Southern California Media Group. All Rights reservedpublished by southern California Media Group. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor publications.

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in san Diego, where magazine is pleased to be a member of san Diego Concierge Association, Gaslamp Quarter Association, san Diego Convention & Visitors bureau, san Diego historical society.

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WHATS SIZZLING IN SECONDS FLAT

Y

DEC. 2-3DECEMBER NIGHTS Usher in the holiday season with Balboa Parks biggest event, featuring park-wide entertainment, ethnic foods, arts and crafts and free entry to museums. p. 49

DEC. 3-21THE NUTCRACKER Theres no shortage of Sugar Plum Fairies around town: among them, San Diego Ballets Nutcracker Dec. 3-4 and 17-18, and City Ballets staging of the classic ballet Dec. 9-21. p. 51-52

DECEMBER FOOTBALL Hut, hut, hike! Catch college ball during the Poinsettia Bowl (Dec. 21) and Holiday Bowl (Dec. 28) while the NFLs San Diego Chargers play home games Dec. 11 and 18. p. 52-53

THROUGH DEC. 31 JESUS CHRIST SUPERSTAR A new production of Andrew Lloyd Webbers rock musical is on stage at the La Jolla Playhouse before heading for Broadway. p. 50

JAN. 7JERRY SEINFELD You can take the comic out of New York, but you cant take New York out of the comic. Seinfeld performs two sets at downtowns Civic Theatre. p. 49

JAN. 15-20RESTAURANT WEEK Hundreds of eateries par-ticipate in this citywide promotion, offering special three-course menus for just $20, $30 or $40 per person. p. 49

JAN. 21-22MICHAEL JACKSON: THE IMMORTAL WORLD TOUR Cirque du Soleil sets its latest show to the music of the King of Pop. p. 49

JAN. 28BALLET FOLKLRICO DE COLOMBIA San Diego Symphonys Winter Pops presents this sizzling showcase of the rhythm, costumes and dance of Colombia. p. 52

FEB. 9-19SAN DIEGO JEWISH FILM FESTIVAL Now in its 22nd year, this esteemed festival screens 40 shorts, documentaries and features exploring the Jewish experience. p. 49

FEB. 10-12NATIONS OF SAN DIEGO INTERNATIONAL DANCE FESTIVAL See dancers from more than 15 countries perform anything from clogging to tango. p. 49

FEB. 18, 21, 24, 26MOBY-DICK Featuring Canadian tenor Ben Hep-pner singing the role of Captain Ahab, Jake Heggies critically acclaimed, multimedia-enhanced opera is a highlight of San Diego Operas 47th season. p. 52

FEB. 18ITZHAK PERLMAN San Diego Symphony brings in the world renowned violinist for a recital with pianist Rohan De Silva. p. 52

Laissez les bons temps rouler! On Feb. 21, Mardi Gras in the Gaslamp celebrates Fat Tuesday in high style, with parades, music and, of course, beads. p. 49

JAN. 23-29

Fairway thrillsThese days, the best reason to watch the Farmers Insurance Openis its unpredictability. Formerly known as the Buick Invitational, the PGA Tour event held each January at the oceanview Torrey Pines Golf Course in La Jolla has, until recently, been dominated by Tiger Woods, but lately the field has been wide open, resulting in some dramatic finishes. Bubba Watson squeaked past local favorite Phil Mickelson to clinch last years win, as both players final putts elic-ited gasps and cheers from the gallery. The few hundred thousand spectators lucky enough to snag tickets to this years event will have a chance to watch the worlds best professional golfers com-pete for a $6 million purse during the week-long festivities, which kick off with an admission-free practice round on Monday, Jan. 23. The official tourney runs Thursday through Sunday. p. 53

TEE TIME Amateur or professional, San Diego is a golfers wonderland, boasting dozens of celebrity-designed courses for varying skill levels. See our golf guide on p. 32 for descriptions of some of the top local courses and information on scheduling tee times.

Colombian golfer Camilo Villegas

lines up a shot at Torrey Pines

Hot Dates Winter 2012


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where nowThe best in entertainment, shopping and dining.

now San Diego

Snack in the BoxNamed after the style of wood-frame house that occupied San Diegos Gaslamp Quarter 150 years ago, Saltbox is downtowns latest go-to spot for expertly crafted classic cocktails and tasty New American tapas. Behind the bar, NYC mixologist Erin Williams revives century-old recipes like the Ward 8here made with bourbon and pomegranate molasses and renamed the Mental Wardand makes fresh magic with drinks like Off the Beetn Path, with saffron-infused gin, beet brine, elder ower syrup and hibiscus salt. In the kitchen, Chef Simon Dolinky prepares shareable plates ranging from lobster corn dogs and beef cheek tacos to the unusual Bacon Cappuccino: two coffee-braised pork belly meatballs in an unctuous broth, garnished with bacon biscotti. This is elevated, stick-to-your-ribs food, perfect for winter. 1047 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.515.3003

DINING + DRINKS


Named after the elusive post-sunset visual effect, 10-year-old Green Flash Brewing Company has just opened a new 45,000-square-foot brewery where it will eventually brew, bottle and serve more than 100,000 barrels per year of its award-winning craft ale. The property comes complete with a beer garden and 30-tap tasting room from which the brewing operation can be seen (and smelled). Known for its seasonal and limited-edition releaseslike Februarys aptly named Palate WreckerGreen

Flash also regularly brews nine other styles ranging from the fruity, Belgian-style Trippel (awarded a silver medal at the 2007 Great American Beer Festival) to the spicy, unfi ltered farmhouse-style Saison Diego, as well as barrel-aged beers. While the brewery runs 24 hours a day, fi ve days a week, the tasting room is only open to the public Wednesday-Sunday. Call ahead for exact hours and to ask about brewery tours. 6550 Mira Mesa Blvd., Mira Mesa, 858.622.0085, greenfl ashbrew.com

Mall food enters a new echelon with the addition of Stacked at Fashion Valley. The gimmick here is twofold: patrons can customize (er, stack) their own burgers, pizzas, salads, sausages and desserts using a wide array of gourmet ingredients, and all ordering is done through the iPad thats docked at each table. Whether youre an Angus-beef-and-cheddar kinda person or prefer a veggie patty with smoked Gouda and a fried egg on a gluten-free bun, the iPad wont judge. Its a dream come true for people with dietary allergies and anyone whos ever cringed at the sight of the words no substitutions on a menu. Dress up some fries with butternut squash aioli, try Brie on your pizza or add roasted poblanos and spicy Sriracha mayo to your burger. The beer selection is a decent mix of big-brand domestics and craft brews, while the wine list includes Mondavi and Ravenswood. When was the last time you saw that at the mall? 7007 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 619.225.7900

News Flash

Green Flash Brewing Co.

FASHIONABLE FEED

Chips stacked with blue cheese dipping sauce


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Sure, you can always pick up an I San Diego shotglass at the airport for the people back home, why not take souvenir shop-ping up a notch? These simple, modern map prints from Coronado-based design studio Orange & Park are both an elegant way to remember time spent on San Diegos killer beaches and a smart dcor choice. Available at Root 75 in Coronado (see p. 23), Orange & Park also makes stationery inspired by local iconslifeguard towers, cresting waves, the Coronado Bridgeas well as typographically creative maps of North and South America, Africa and other spots. Because your niece doesnt really need another commemorative keychain, does she? orangeandpark.com

SHOPPING

WHERE NOW San Diego

EXIT THROUGH THE GIFT SHOPA new kind of museum store has set up shop in downtown S.D. A limited-engagement pop-up experiment at the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego, Product Porch is a collabora-tion between the museum and La Jolla natives turned international tastemak-ers Brooks Hudson Thomas (of L.A.s Specifi c Merchandise) and Blaire Dessent (of Pariss Vitrine). In lieu of exhibition catalogs and notebooks, this shops Dwell-worthy inventory show-cases some of the most talented young

artists and designers working today. Youll fi nd pink crocheted bookshelves from Adrian Clutario, birch plywood stack lamps from industrial designer Dino Sanchez and one-of-a-kind side tables handcrafted in Brooklyn from reclaimed American hardwood, among other covetable items. Product Porch is open during standard museum hours (11 am-5 pm daily except Wednesdays) and runs in conjunction with

MCASDs critically hailed Phenomenal exhibition of Light & Space artists, through Jan. 22. 1001 Kettner Blvd., downtown, 858.454.3541

Tanya Aguinga rope-knot bracelets

Souvenirs for the Savvy



at Las americas Premium OutLetsLocated in Paseo de La Moda suite 412


Our citys most famous attractionthe world-famous San Diego Zoo in Balboa Parkis inspiring more than childrens awe this season. Fashion designers are looking to the animal world more than ever before, incorporating feathers, leopard print, leather, fur, snakeskin and more into clothing, shoes, handbags, jewelry and other accessories for grown-ups. Here, weve rounded up a few of our favorite recent finds to help keep you on-trend this winter.

GUCCI Perched atop a one-inch covered platform, these in-demand black Alyona ankle boots are trimmed in Canadian alpaca fur ($1,590). Available at: Neiman Marcus, Fashion Valley

Mall, 7027 Friars Road, 619.692.9100

PHILIP STEIN The latest watches from Philip Stein feature metallic snake, lizard, ostrich, shark and other animal-skin straps (left, $520, and right, $1,870).

Available at: Nordstrom, 103 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.239.1700

MARINA B Shaped like a pair of martins-pcheurs, or kingfisher birds, these yellow-gold earrings boast fancy-cut diamonds, blue and yellow sapphires and black onyx (price upon request). Available at: Neiman Marcus, Fashion Valley

Mall, 7027 Friars Road, 619.692.9100

Where to find it

H&M With a subtly animalistic print, this black jacket from H&Ms sustainably minded

Conscious Collection is made of 100% recycled wool ($40). Available at: The Forum, 1905 Calle Barcelona #120, Carlsbad, 760.943.0610



Where to find it

LEOTA

This figure-flattering wrap dress in leopard print comes with matching

black belt ($145). Available at: GOGA by Gordana, 401 Market St., Gaslamp

Quarter, 619.564.7660

SAMA EYEWEAR With just a splash of leopard at the temple, these Mix 3 frames, shown in gold, are tame enough for any setting ($450). Available at: Optical Shop of Aspen, 1025 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.459.4040

GUCCI This leather-lined ostrich Smilla tote features removable raccoon fur tails, antiqued gold hardware and inside

zip pockets for your cell phone and PDA ($5,200). Available at: Neiman Marcus, Fashion Valley Mall, 7027 Friars Road, 619.692.9100

ALkEMIE These funky feather earrings are made by an L.A.-based jewelry designer who specializes in using

recycled metals ($150). Available at: Pigment, 3827 30th St., North Park, 619.501.6318


earsucker, the hippest of the hip downtown restaurants, has barely been open a year, but already its inspired Burlap, a sister location in Del Mar.created by celebri-chef Brian Malar-

key, who was once a contestant on Bravos Top Chef tV show, Burlap bills itself as an asian cowboy restaurant

where the West eats Meat. its a nod to Malarkeys own roots, growing up on a ranch in Oregon. But aside from the cute turn of words, what exactly does it mean to have an asian cowboy dining experience?it means lots of fish, offered up raw or cooked with sesa-

me and ginger. Youll also find big rotisserie meat dishes like chicken, duck and lamb, as well as a selection of steaks that can be augmented with a raw egg or wasabi crme fraiche or even foie gras if you want it.Like searsucker, the menu at Burlap is divided into bold,

one-word sections. raw is where you can order small servings of beef tartar, venison carpaccio and various oyster

dishes, including one prepared with caviar and quail egg dubbed natural Viagra. Green obviously means salads. Bowl is one of two

miso soups, truffled or chowdered. and Ours is a selection of house specialties like Malarkeys beloved sweet potato fries, a decadent sesame-crusted brie with mango jam and bone marrow to please all the foodies.everything is prepared beautifully, every sauce for the

filets meticulously arranged on the plate. even a simple Brussels sprouts and sausage dish has a crispiness and tanginess thats rare to the underappreciated vegetable.still, the concept feels like its trying too hard to be clever,

and that makes the ordering experience daunting. Be sure to settle in with a cocktail like the shanghai Mule

before tackling the menu, where most main courses are priced in the $30 range. the mule, made with a splash of sake, could be one of the best in town.it helps that the 8,000-square-foot restaurant, located in

the posh Del Mar highlands shopping center, is beautiful to be in. You dont feel as rushed to choose between chicken balls and octopus on a stick when there are calming koi ponds throughout the heated patio.thanks to the tasteful design by thomas schoos, the man

also responsible for searsuckers signature look, Burlap is a colorful, comfortable North county showpiece. Giant lucky lion heads hang above the bar, leaving a festive first impres-sion. there are also Moroccan lanterns on the patio, a col-lection of big communal tables that invite conversation and touches of burlap on the walls of the main dining room.there are little surprises at every turn: a fire pit with cozy

seating, a giant window that lets you peek into the kitchen upon arriving, pebbles in the bathroom sink. its easy to see why Malarkeys place is jam-packed with

fine-dining-starved carmel Valley couples and coast-dwell-


northernlights

All of a sudden, sleepy north County has become san Diegos hottest dining destination. here are three to try.By NEAL ALEXANDERAND NINA GARIN

S

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Burlap (pictured) boasts bold dcor and bolder flavors, like this hamachi tuna (opposite).


ing young professionals. its only been open since late July, but Burlap is already quite the searsucker rival. N.G.Burlap, 12995 el camino real, suite 101, Del Mar, 858.369.5700

RestauraNt thOuGh it MaY Be, Flavor in Del Mar plaza looks like a hollywood set. and its ready for its close-up, too. Boasting a spectacular ocean view, the upscale

restaurant is done in grey and white punctuated with color. the front door opens into a splashy lounge outfitted with a sweeping carrera marble bar and white tile that climbs walls and pillars. Just behind the bar is a glass wall glowing an icy blue, then a bright orange, then an emerald green. the floor is covered in a light wood, and tables and cushy chairs are scattered throughout. Dinersas opposed to cocktailersmosey up a wide

walkway along one side of the room and enter the main dining area. technically its an outdoor patio. Functionally though, the area is enclosed with canvas and clear plastic to give it an inside/outside mood. tables, chairs, booths, planters and even a fireplace play up the notion of an upscale indoor/outdoor room. though barely a year old, Flavor has had its share of

domestic drama. after a pomp-filled opening, the place recently replaced its founding chef with Brian redzikowski, who, at only 31, has already cooked at such high-end food-ie temples as alain Ducasse, Le cirque and Jol robuchon. since arriving at Flavor, hes redone the original menu and

says hes continuing to work on simplifying dishes in a New american style.a tuna tart appetizer appears as thin slices of raw tuna

layered over wisps of red onion. its served on a cracker-crisp slice of fried potato. this is an unusual and quite delicious preparation, one thats extremely mild and mixes textures that are both satiny-soft and crunchy.One of the more surprising preparations is a thin slice

of sauted foie gras topped by a small round donut thats been laced with honey. While fresh fruit sits on the side of the plate, the combination of the meltingly rich foie gras and the slightly sweetened, brioche-like donut is positively regal. (keep in mind that beginning in July 2012, the sale of foie gras in california becomes illegal. so if you favor the foie, nows the time to indulge.)huge diver scallops are served in a generous portion

with crisp brown edges and buttery interiors. accompany-ing them on the plate are sauted wild mushrooms, cauli-flower and a sauce perfumed with Meyer lemon.two red meat items are included on the menu: a prime

strip steak served with a wine jus, and a prime flat-iron steak thats sliced and wears a high mound of arugula salad. shallot jam is on the side. also available are salads and risotto, chicken, pork and other seafood items. an attempt to increase the straightforwardness of

dishes at Flavor is clearly present, and its probably most evident in the presentation. While dishes are visually pleasant, theres a candor about them that sometimes verges on the industrial. still, the room has enough


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glamour to compensate for plating simplicity. N.A.Flavor, 1555 Camino Del Mar, Third Floor, Del Mar, 858.755.3663

Thanks To a Menu that boasts sophisticatedcomfort food and an extensive wine list, north Parks urban solace has long embodied the spirit of a true neighborhood restaurant. on a

given day, its tables are jammed with a varied clientele: stylish couples on dates, families celebrating birthdays, co-workers on a lunch break.now executive Chef Matt Gordon brings that welcom-

ing spirit to encinitas with his latest venture, Solace & the Moonlight Lounge.Located in downtown encinitas Pacific station, the spa-

cious restaurant easily blends in with the areas casual yet artistic surroundings. Its modern but not flashy, and offers quality dining without scaring away the taco-shop types.solace has a similar menu to the north Park original, with

favorites including Gordons trademark cheddar-and-chive biscuits with orange-honey butter and smoky tomato jam; tender Brandt Farms beef cheek; and a grilled four-cheese tomato and basil sandwich with creamy tomato-fennel soup and fries. But the new location has plenty to make it stand out on its own, too. Thanks to the unique layout along the train tracks, the building is divided into two dining areas, one upstairs and another downstairs.The ground floor is the more formal area, with minimalist

wooden furniture, ocean-themed art and oversized windows

that look out onto the street. Its where youd sit to have long, meaningful talks, or where youd bring your mom and dad. Just dont get startled by the sound of trains whirring byit can be distracting and scary if youre not expecting it.upstairsalso known as the Moonlight Loungeis

where youll find more of a scene, where people congregate at the bar or find a spot at the large, communal table in the middle of the room. Balcony seating is available, too.Its also where The Dudes Raw Bar is located, and by

The Dude, they do indeed mean the character from The Big Lebowski. a giant picture of Jeff Bridges smiles down as you order items like oysters on a half shell or seared albacore.Theres also a truly unique yellowtail pepita ceviche with

diced chilies, an herb pure and cornmeal crackersits like nothing youd find in Mexico but manages to retain the flavor and quality of an authentic ceviche dish.The bar is well-stocked with quality wines and craft

beers. But because their flavored syrups are made in-house (no high-fructose corn syrup on the entire menu), its a good excuse to indulge in a cocktail. Try the Cherry Cola, made with black-cherry-infused whiskey and cane-sugar soda, thats not too sweet and not too tart.and while youre upstairs, where a soundtrack of indie-

rock hits plays overhead, make sure to get a peek at the garden. Its where they grow the herbs and vegetables youll find on your plate. N.G. solace & the Moonlight Lounge, 25 east e st., encinitas, 760.753.2433


The view from Flavors indoor/out-door patio; (below)

meatloaf at Solace & the Moonlight Lounge.

Upstairs at Solace is where The Dudes Raw Bar is locat-edand by The Dude, they do indeed mean the character from The Big Lebowski.



ARTPOWER!Why its notable: As UC San Diegos arts series, ArtPower! has enough imaginative punch to justify the exclamation point in its name. Offerings on the La Jolla campus range from classical to experimental music plus dance, film and other intriguing events. Try one and youll feel hip instantly. Highlights: Iconic U.S. composer Steve Reich participates in a concert honoring his 75th birthday (Jan. 18). The St. Lawrence String Quartet showcases its high-voltage verve in a classical-to-contemporary program (Feb. 10). Both take place at the Conrad Prebys Concert Hall, near Gilman Drive and Russell Lane. Tickets and info: 858.534.8497, artpwr.com/calendar Fun fact: The Conrad Prebys Concert Hall is named for the San Diego developer and philanthropist who once yearned to become a classical pianist. I retired from performing at age 13, he once said, but I developed the enormous love of music thats with me today. Pre/post show eats: Despite the restaurants name, youll find no critters at Mustangs &

Burros at Estancia La Jolla Hotel (9700 N. Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla, 858.550.1000), just plenty of Southwestern atmosphere and a convenient location near UCSDs campus.

BACH COLLEGIUM SAN DIEGOWhy its notable: Bach Collegium, currently in its ninth season, is the San Diego areas only professional early music ensemble with an orchestra and chorus. Youll hear such instruments as viols (the ancestors of violins, violas and cellos) and sackbuts (an early type of trombone). And youll feel as if youve been transported back to the era of Bach, Handel and other long-gone composers.Highlights: Get in the holiday spirit with a sonorous program titled Gaudete! Motets and Carols: Old and New, scheduled for Dec. 16 at St. James by-the-Sea Episcopal Church (743 Prospect St., La Jolla) and Dec. 17 at St. Andrews by-the-Sea Episcopal Church (1050 Thomas Ave., Pacific Beach). Tickets and info: 619.341.1726, bachcollegiumsd.org

Fun fact: When music director Ruben Valenzuela needed a last-minute replacement for an ailing singer, he found one through Facebook. Pre/post show eats: A short stroll from St. James is Roppongi, a trendy restaurant that flaunts Asian fusion (875 Prospect St., La Jol-la, 858.551.5252). Options near St. Andrews include JRDN at Tower23, an upscale estab-lishment with a beachfront location (723 Felspar St., Pacific Beach, 858.270.5736).

LA JOLLA MUSIC SOCIETYWhy its notable: The La Jolla Music Societys motto is we bring the world to San Diego. That it does, in a variety of ways. The 2011-12 season includes major orches-tras and dance companies, celebrated jazz musicians and even winners of Moscows 2011 International Tchaikovsky Competition. Highlights: Pilobolus opens the Dance Series by displaying its delightfully inventive style in two performances on the same day (Jan. 14 at Birch Theatre, 2891 University Ave., North Park). Conductor Riccardo Muti

Opera, symphOny cOncerts, chamber music and mOre all flOurish during the winter mOnths in san diegO. where tO start? here are five ear-Opening OrganizatiOns that are wOrth discOvering. BY vALERIE SCHER

ClassiCally inclined

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and the Chicago Symphonyone of the leading symphonic ensembles in the countrylaunch this seasons celebrity orchestra series (Feb. 19 at copley symphony hall, 750 b st., downtown).Tickets and info: 858.459.3728, ljms.org Fun fact: Which famous film composer wrote a piece for the 25th anniversary of the music societys summerFest? yes, it was John Williams. his Quartet La Jolla received its premiere last summer. Pre/post show eats: near the birch Theatre is Spread, a bastion of nouveau comfort food (2879 University ave., 619.543.0406). a short drive from symphony hall is the Westgate hotels elegant Westgate Room (1055 second ave., 619.557.3650).

SAN DIEGO OPERA Why its notable: Theres nothing else like it in the area. Were talking about quality productions of baroque-to-contemporary repertoire and accomplished singers, most

of whom have appeared at leading opera houses in this country and abroad. Highlights: provocative and seductive, rich-ard strauss Salome opens the 2012 season with four performances (Jan. 28 and 31, Feb. 3 and 5). For fresh thrills, try Moby-Dick, Jake heggies new opera based on herman mel-villes seafaring classic (Feb. 18, 21, 24, 26).Tickets and info: 619.533.7000, sdopera.comFun fact: in 1966, a little-known tenor was the last-minute replacement in the title role of san diego operas production of Faust. his name? placido domingo, who went on to become a megastar. Pre/post show eats: For opera-goers, one of the nearby favorites is Dobsons (956 broadway circle, 619.231.6771). its cozy and clubby, so reservations are recommended.

SAN DIEGO SYMPHONYWhy its notable: now in its 101st season, the san diego symphony is the oldest sym-phony orchestra in california. its annual

budget of approximately $18 million puts it in the highest tier of U.s. orchestras. and its home is copley symphony hall (750 b st., downtown), a gloriously ornate former movie palace once known as the Fox Theatre. Highlights: For the orchestras core classical programming, check out the Jacobs mas-terworks series, which includes beethovens beloved Ninth Symphony (dec. 9-11). The Winter pops gives dance a whirl in Ballroom with a Twist (Jan. 20-21) and Moscow Festival Ballets Sleeping Beauty (romantically scheduled for Valentines day, Feb. 14) and Swan Lake (Feb. 15).Tickets and info: 619.235.0804, sandiegosymphony.orgFun fact: When the Fox Theatre opened in 1929, the guest list included such celebs as buster keaton, Jackie coogan and Will rogers.Pre/post show eats: close to copley symphony hall, the popular La Gran Tapa (611 b st., downtown, 619.234.8272) is tops in spanish food and drink.

(Clockwise from top left) Taiwanese dance troupe Cloud Gate 2, appearing at ArtPower!; San Diego Operas Moby-Dick; Bang on a Can All-Stars at ArtPower!; Ballroom with a Twist at San Diego Symphony.

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exploring

Downtown

Left to right: the historic Balboa Theater; the harbor and skyline at sunset; browsing the Gaslamp Quarters many boutiques and galleries.

gaslamp QuarterBusinessman Alonzo Erastus Horton envisioned San Diego as a bustling port city, and in 1867 he spent $264 for 800 acres he called New Town. Today, New Town is known as the historic Gaslamp Quarter, or simply The Gaslamp. Comprising more than 16 blocks, the Gaslamp stretches from Broadway to Har bor Drive (just north of the Convention Center), with Fourth, Fifth and Sixth ave nues as its main thoroughfares. Anchoring the areas north-west end is Horton Plaza, a small square with a bubbling fountain on the corner of Broadway and Fourth.The Gaslamps immaculately preserved Victorian-style buildings are home to dozens of

restaurants, clubs, theaters and retailers. Several tour guides offer an insiders look at the Gaslamp (see p. 58), or create your own: The area can be easily covered on foot, or via bicy-cle, which can be rented at Bike Revolution (522 Sixth Ave.), located at the southeast corner of the districtconveniently right next door to Heavenly Cupcake (518 Sixth Ave.). Cmon, you deserve it.From there you can explore retail finds on the southern side of the zone, like Chuck Jones

Gallery (232 Fifth Ave.), one of only three in the nation showcasing the work of the Oscar-winning animator responsible for the Road Runner, Wile E. Coyote and Marvin the Martian. Shop for designer resale at Carolyns (310 K St.) or pre-owned luxury watches at Nikki & Co. Fine Jewelers (562 Fifth Ave.). We also love GOGA (401 Market St.), the signature shop of one-time Project Runway con-

testant Gordana Gehlhausen, who designs her own line of feminine, ethereal tops and gowns and also carries items from up-and-coming Southern California labels. For national retailers, venture farther up Fifth, where youll find well-known stores like foot-

wear boutique Sketchers (480 Fifth Ave.), Urban Outfitters (665 Fifth Ave.) and Dutch brand G-Star Raw (470 Fifth Ave.), with trendy styles for men and women.Or make your way over to Westfield Horton Plaza (see p. 57), a multilevel outdoor mall

with a kaleidoscopic design that kicked off the revitalization of downtown when it was con-structed in 1985. Its now home to some 100 restaurants and shops including White House Black Market, Macys, BCBG and more. Theres also culture to be had at the mall: San Diego Repertory Theatre performs on the Lyceum theater stage, and the historic Balboa Theatre anchors the shopping centers eastern edge, at Fourth Avenue and E Street (see p. 51).After a long day of shopping and sightseeing, sate your hunger at one of the Gaslamps

The past and present come together in San Diegos lively, historic downtown neighborhoods.


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100-plus restaurants and cafs, ranging from American to Chinese to Indian to Thai to steak and seafood (see dining guide, p. 35). Parking can be dicey in the Gaslamp; a

garage is your best bet. Horton Plaza, with entrances on Fourth Avenue and G Street, offers up to three hours of free parking if you self-validate at machines on levels 1, 3 and 5. Be sure to note your vegetable or fruit level; it can be a confusing garage (619.239.8180). Park It On Market is a 500-space garage at Market Street with entrances on Sixth and Seventh avenues (619.232.1271); while 6th & K Parkade offers 1,230 spots, with entrances on Sixth and Seventh avenues (619.233.6624). For more information, call the Gas lamp Quarter Association (619.233.5227).

Downtowns CoreJust beyond the Gaslamp are several sites worth exploring, including the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego (see p. 55) and the New Childrens Museum (see p. 55), an interactive art/play place for kids of all ages. The San Diego Chinese Historical Museum (404 Third Ave.) also features a beautiful garden with a koi pond. Arts and culture abound downtown. More

than a century old, the San Diego Symphony performs at Copley Symphony Hall (see p. 52), while Broadway/San Diego brings touring shows from New York to the Civic Theatre (1100 Third Ave.). Spreckels Theatre (121 Broadway) hosts many performing arts events throughout the year. See page 49 for additional theater listings.

east VillageThe construction of Petco Park (100 Park Blvd.), home of the San Diego Padres, helped

gentrify this once-gritty neighborhood east of the Gaslamp. Seven years on, its now rife with entertainment options. Pick up a creamy burratta or a smoky Gouda at Venissimo Cheese (871 G St.), or a Tony Gwynn jersey at the Padres Team Store (J St. at Seventh Ave.). The neighborhoods burgeoning art scene includes a few notable galleries: the edgy Periscope Project, built from stacked shipping cargo containers near the corner of 15th and K, and Alexander Salazar Fine Art, featuring mixed-media work from emerging and mid-career contemporary artists (640 Broadway).

little italyA few blocks northwest of downtown, Little Italy is home to fabulous restaurants, galler-ies, boutiques and markets dotting the main drag, India Street. Highlights include Bottle-craft (2161 India St.), a craft beer shop and tasting room; Noel-Baza Fine Art (2165 India St.), a well-respected contemporary art gal-lery featuring legends and locals alike; trendy womens boutique Melero (1918 India St.), and Bella Stanza (1501 India St.), with Murano glass, Italian ceramics and more.

Take time to explore the streets branching off from India, too: The colorful cottages of the Fir Street Shops include Carol Gardyne Studio (1840 Columbia St.), with hand-paint-ed silk scarves.

Running parallel to India Street, Kettner Boulevard forms the spine of the art-and-design district. A gallery cluster near the corner of Kettner and Kalmia includes cool Subtext Gallery, focused on lowbrow and graphic artists. Monthly on the second Friday, many area galleries host evening receptions.

You can also shop for modern furniture, art and home accessories at chic Toke (2136

Kettner Blvd.), a design center founded by interior designers from Tijuana, or Mixture (2210 Kettner Blvd.), identifiable by its large roll-up garage door. Cannisse (1772 Kettner Blvd.) showcases its own line of chic, feminine casualwear made in France.

Foodies shouldnt miss the Saturday morning Mercato on Date Street, one of the citys most popular farmers markets (619.233.3769).

embarCaDeroAnother entertainment destination is Seaport Village (see p. 57), a 14-acre outdoor plaza with shops and a beautiful 19th-century carousel. The bayside board-walk is ideal for walking to and from the Convention Center. Grab an iced cappuc-cino from Upstart Crow Trading Company (835-C W. Harbor Drive) and head for the Embarcadero Marina Park, which offers bike and jogging trails, basketball courts and picnicking. Continue north along the harbor to Broadway Pier, where you can embark on sightseeing excursions or catch the Coronado Ferry (1050 N. Harbor Drive), which travels across the bay several times daily. The USS Midway (see p. 56) invites the

public to learn about Americas longest-serving aircraft carrier. Many of the storytell-ing docents are veterans who served on the carrier over its 47-year history. The floating Maritime Museum (see p. 55) features sever-al historic ships, including the HMS Surprise from the film Master and Commander. Keep your eyes open for Urban Trees,

a public art project consisting of tree-like sculptures placed all along Harbor Drive For a map of these neighborhoods, see page

62. For information about restaurants in this area, see page 48.

great finD SiSTer acTMinet and Natalie Taylor are rock royaltytheir dad founded Taylor Guitars, played by shredders ranging from Sammy Hagar to Beckbut their passion is in fashion, so they opened Dolcetti, a clothing boutique and hair salon in a historic building in the Gaslamp. Under the original 1800s tin-tiled ceiling, youll find hip mens and womens fashions from up-and-coming designers. Favorite picks include pinup-influenced swimwear from local label Fables by Barrie, girlish dresses from Londons Darling, chunky sweaters, rompers in an array of fabulous prints and edgy accessories with rock n roll flairproof the girls just might be chips off the old block after all. 635 Fifth ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.237.4413


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exploring

La Jolla

Left to right: the gateway to the La Jolla cave; Nancy Rubins Pleasure Point at the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego; the view from Salk Institute.

BoUTiQUeS AnD gAllerieSLa Jollas spectacular streets are lined with high-end boutiques, antique stores and art gal-leries. Prospect Street and Girard Avenue form the spines of the village shopping district, but dont be afraid to venture off onto side streets, where hidden gems await, including Brooks Brothers (1055 Wall St.) and Las Manos del Artesano (7940 Herschel Ave.), a gallery show-casing Latin American folk art, jewelry, pottery and more.On Girard, amid national brands like Banana Republic (7841 Girard Ave.), we love womens

apparel boutique Kerut (7944 Girard Ave.), a well-appointed spot run by a stylist. Its not uncommon to find cupcakes and bubbly awaiting your arrival. Farther down Girard is La Maisonette (7631 Girard Ave.), an oasis of Parisian and French country gifts and textiles, as well as independent bookseller D.G. Wills (7461 Girard Ave.), for that rare first-edition. Back on Prospect Street, a slew of female-friendly stores like Victorias Secret (1111 Pros-

pect St.), locally designed swimwear shop Sauvage (1025 Prospect St.) and Robina (1261 Pros-pect St.), with chic womens apparel and accessories.The village is also home to many art galleries, whose collections range from landscape

photography to Picasso canvases. Madison Gallery (1020 Prospect St.) traffics in art from a select pool of noted local artists as well as big names from Lichtenstein to Damien Hirst, while Martin Lawrence Gallery (1111 Prospect St.) specializes in original prints of masters like Chagall, Mir, Dal, Warhol and Erte. Quint Gallery (7547 Girard Ave.) is one of the regions most respected, showcasing edgy work by national artists like Ryan McGinness. La Jolla Boulevard heads south out of the village toward the charming neighborhood of

Bird Rock, but dont leave without stopping in at Sweet Paper, a boutique stationery shop run by design-savvy sisters (7527 La Jolla Blvd. just north of Pearl St.). The cottage that houses the store was once the home of painterand one-time Picasso museFranoise Gilot.Continue southward for about two miles to reach Bird Rock, where worthwhile shops

include Shabby Chic (5651 La Jolla Blvd.), with trendy, easy-breezy clothes fit for the coastal lifestyle. Break for coffee at Bird Rock Coffee Roasters (5627 La Jolla Blvd.), whose sought-after beans are served at cafs throughout the city, or pick up a loaf of low-carb, gluten-free bread at Julian Bakery (5621 La Jolla Blvd.).La Jolla Shores, just a short drive up Torrey Pines Road, is also worth a visit. The wide, flat

beach is perfect for swimming and sunning, while the tiny main drag, Avenida de la Playa, is lined with eateries and rental shops with all the surf and kayak gear you need.

La Jolla is a jewel sparkling with art, theater, fine dining, boutique shopping and the areas best outdoor recreation.


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ArTS & ScienceThe University of Cali fornia, San Diego (9500 Gilman Drive) is home to one of the best the-aters in the country: La Jolla Playhouse (see p. 49 for additional theater listings). The theater was founded in 1947 by actors Mel Ferrer, Dorothy McGuire and La Jolla native Gregory Peck. Each season is a mix of classic and daring productions; many have gone straight to Broadway.The Stuart Collection, a group of site-

specific outdoor sculptures, adds to the artis-tic setting at uCSD (p. 56). A 24-foot giant teddy bear made of boulders and a 560-foot-long Snake Path are among the artworks placed throughout the 1,200-acre campus.Just north of campus is the Salk Institute

for Biological Studies (10010 N. Torrey Pines Road), an architectural masterpiece designed by Louis kahn. The scientific research complex was named in honor of Dr. Jonas Salk, who discovered a vaccine for polio and later lived in La Jolla. Tours of campus architecture are available to the public (858.453.4100 x1262).Southwest of campus sits Scripps Institu

tion of Oceanography (8622 Kennel Way) and neighboring Birch Aquarium (see p. 53), both among the best ocean life learning cen-ters in the world.In La Jolla village, the Museum of Con

temp orary Art San Diego (see p. 55) exam-ines the boundaries of art created since 1950. Housed in the former home of Ellen Browning Scripps, the museums galleries boast an unparalleled ocean view, while Nancy Rubins stunning large-scale, nautical-inspired art-work adorns the museums west side. Defi-nitely schedule a stop at the gift shop.The Athenaeum Music and Arts Library

(1008 Wall St.) features year-round art exhibi-tions, plus jazz and chamber music concerts,

and a treasure trove of books and records.Many well-known names have called La

Jolla home, including Theodor Dr. Seuss Geisel, actress Raquel Welch, motivational speaker Tony Robbins and author Anne Rice.

recreATionLa Jolla is paradise for outdoorsy types. The Cove (1100 Coast Blvd.) is a haven for swim-mers and snorkelers; La Jolla Shores (8200 Camino del Oro) has easy access for scuba divers; and Windansea (6800 Neptune Place), immortalized in Tom Wolfes The Pump House Gang, is the ultimate surfing break.Childrens Pool, a small cove next to Ellen

Browning Scripps Park, is a place to observe wildlife, particularly the harbor seals that have taken over the area. The seals encampment has caused an ongoing community debate: Some residents want to reclaim the cove for a childrens pool; others advocate for the seals. For a quick bite, try one of the many ocean-

view restaurants along Prospect Street or Coast Boulevard.

Torrey pineSTorrey Pines is just north of La Jolla village. There, youll find the 2,000-acre Torrey Pines State Reserve, which offers eight miles of hik-ing trails winding through wind-sculpted pines and wildflowers. Located off Coast Highway 101 between La Jolla and Del Mar, the reserve was established to protect the nations rarest pine tree, the Pinus torreyana. The visitors cen-ter, a pueblo-style structure at the top of Park Road, is available to help with guided tours.One of the reserves trails leads directly to

Torrey Pines State Beach, located on North Torrey Pines Road. The beach, which spans 4.5 miles from Del Mar to the cliffs at Torrey Pines Mesa, is a great place for swimming,

boating and fishing. you can also catch these amazing ocean views from up high, via a hang glider or paraglider. The Torrey Pines Glider Port and Flight Park (2800 Torrey Pines Scenic Drive) offers flights (tandem, too) for novices and extreme adventure seekers.Adjacent Blacks Beach is a two-mile sandy

strip known for great surfingand nude sunbathing (not officially sanctioned). Get-ting to Blacks isnt easy. If you can, park near the Glider Port and hike to the bottom of the bluffs, paying close attention to warning signs about unstable cliffs. you can walk a mile from Torrey Pines State Beach, but access may be blocked by high tides.The Torrey Pines Golf Course gives golfers

the ultimate indulgence: two courses with stunning ocean views. In 2008, the landmark became one of the only public courses to host a u.S. Open; its also the site of the PGA Tours Farmers Insurance Open (see p. 32).

golDen TriAngleThe area east of La Jolla village is known as the Golden Triangle, bordered by Interstate 5 on the west, Interstate 805 on the east and State Route 52 on the south. This triangular area includes upscale hotels, fine dining and great shopping. The shopping district revolves around Westfield University Towne Centre (see p. 57), which locals shorten to uTC. This outdoor mall, anchored by Macys and Nordstrom, features dozens of eateries and retail storefronts, including Anthropologie, Ann Taylor, Banana Republic, Apple, Tumi and Williams-Sonoma. From the village, go north on Torrey Pines Road and turn right on La Jolla Village Drive. For a map of these neighborhoods, see page

63. For a list of restaurants in this area, see page 48.

greAT finD ART ATTACKThe La Jolla art and design district gets a new resident this season with the arrival of Scott White Contemporary Art, recently relocated from Little Italy. The 3,000-square-foot 1950s building will serve as a showcase for artists represented by gallerist Scott White, a one-time adviser to Sothebys who has repped mega-stars like Willem de Kooning, Bernar Venet, Mark Rothko and Andy Warhol. Boasting 16-foot ceilings, the new space will be inaugurated with an exhibition of work by painter/humanitarian Ross Bleckner, who in 2009 became the first fine artist to be awarded the title of Goodwill Ambassador by the United Nations (through Dec. 21). 7655 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 619.501.5689


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exploring

Beach Cities

Left to right: heading out for a surf in Coronado; boards and beach cruisers at the Mission Beach Boardwalk; the lighthouse at Point Loma.

CoronadoCoronado is an island of small-town quaintness amid San Diegos big-city bustle. Well, its not really an island, though many locals call it that. Coro nado is actually an isthmus, attached to the mainland at the southern end of Silver Strand State Beach.Though driving there via the iconic Coro nado Bridge is always a thrill, its also great fun to

travel by sea. The Coronado/San Diego Ferry leaves on the hour from downtowns Broad-way Pier between 9 am and 9 pm (619.234.4111), while San Diego Water Taxi offers on-call transportation around the bay from 9 am to 10 pm (619.235.8294). Upon arrival, you can browse the shops and restaurants at Coronado Ferry Landing Marketplace (1201 First St.), then rent a cruiser at Bikes and Beyond to explore Coronados flat, tree-lined side streets. Head south on the main drag of Orange Avenue to find an inviting entertainment district,

with shops like Coronado Taste of Oils (954 Orange Ave.), where you can sample dozens of flavors of gourmet olive oils and vinegars, and The Attic (1011 Orange Ave.), with new and vintage home dcor. Dont miss side-by-side shops Be Styled, with chic tops, dresses and accessories, and Blue Jeans & Bikinis, which makes it easy to shop for those two items women notoriously hate having to try on (1113 Adella Ave.). Youll find another cluster of shops selling designer clothing and eyewear, home dcor and

more coastal California merchandise inside the storybook Hotel del Coronado (1500 Orange Ave.), opened in 1888 and designated a National Historic Landmark in 1977. For more on the towns history, stop by the Coronado Museum of History and Art (1100 Orange Ave.). Spreckels Park (Orange Ave. between Sixth and Seventh sts.) sits between these two retail

zones and is an ideal place to take a break from all that strenuous shopping.

Shelter iSland and harbor iSlandShelter Island and Harbor Island arent really islands either; theyre connected to the mainland and were created more than 35 years ago with tons of sand dredged from the floor of the bay. Shelter Island, with its many bars, restaurants and nautically themed stores, is the departure point for various sportfishing charters. The area is also home to Humphreys Concerts by the Bay, a 1,400-seat outdoor theater that hosts jazz, blues and pop headliners in warmer months. Nearby Harbor Island has its own, smaller outdoor festi-val site, Spanish Landing Park, and several bayview restaurants. Both islands offer postcard vistas of the downtown skyline, plus flat paths for walks and bike rides.

From Coronado to Pacific Beach: Wel-come to Southern Californias most scenic oceanside neighborhoods.


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oCean beaCh and point lomaO.B. for short, this neighborhood is truly one of San Diegos most unique. Its an end-less summer of love in O.B., an aggregation of aging hippies, surfers, bikers, artists, musicians and other free spirits. OBceans possess a strong sense of community and territorial pride best summed up by a once-popular bumper sticker: U.S. out of O.B.

The main drag, Newport Avenue, smells of incense and has many shops catering to the O.B. lifestyle, but also plenty of antiques deal-ers at places like Newport Avenue Antiques (4836 Newport Ave.). Music junkies will love the vintage vinyl at Cow Records (5029 Newport Ave.), while Galactic Comics (4981 Newport Ave.) is heaven for graphic-novel fans. Pine Tree Road (4885 Newport Ave.) specializes in soaps, scrubs and lotions, and nearby Azucar is a Cuban-style patisserie with fresh-baked scones, honey buns and more (4820 Newport Ave.). Off Newport, dont miss Noon (4993 Niag-

ara Ave.), with handmade letterpress cards and jewelry. Wind down the day with a leisurely stroll

down the Ocean Beach Pier, which, at 1,971 feet, is one of the longest concrete piers in the country. Nearby Point Loma is home to a small but

charming array of restaurants and cafs, as well as the Cabrillo National Monument, Fort Rosecrans National Cemetery and military installations. The Cabrillo National Monu-ment (see p. 54) offers panoramic vistas stretching from San Diego to Mexico. There are also hiking trails, tidepools, a historic lighthouse, a bookstore and museum exhibits about conquistador Juan rodrguez Cabrillo, the founder of San Diego.

miSSion beaCh and paCifiC beaChTwo of San Diegos most popular beaches, Mission Beach and Pacific Beach (P.B. to locals) form an unbroken band of sand that stretches for three miles, from the mouth of Mission Bay to the rocky points of La Jolla. Both are overflowing with restaurants, bars and boutiques.South Mission Beach is home to serious

beach volleyball and bayside basketball games. Farther north, check out the star attraction at the Belmont Park amusement park: the giant Dipper, a restored 1925 wooden roller coaster (see p. 53). Another landmark dating back to 1925 is

Crystal Pier, at the foot of garnet Avenue in P.B. This 400-foot-long wooden pier is gated and lined with rental cottages. However, the pier is open to the public during the day and is always popular with fishermen. The best way to experience this area is

to walk along the boardwalk, where people-watching is not just encouraged, its a must. If the nonstop parade of skateboarders, in- liners, bikers, joggers and walkers gets to be too much, walk across Mission Boulevard to the bayside boardwalk, where theres much less of a scene. garnet Avenue and Mission Boulevard

form the backbone of this funky, retro retail district, which boasts dozens of small shops filled with surfing gear, swimsuits and casual wear. Begin the 10-block shopping stroll where the two main streets intersect, then head east. (Note: These are long blocks.)First order of business: find that perfect

bikini. SunSplash (979 Garnet Ave.) can help, with stylish swimwear and casual beachwear in a wide array of sizes. For the rest of the outfit, try Chillers Showroom (4667 Cass

St.), a spacious shop just off the main drag selling mens and womens clothing in a relaxed, lounge-like atmosphere.Farther up garnet Avenue is Rusty Spokes

Vintage Bicycles (1344 Garnet Ave.), which specializes in antique and classic cycles. Venturing north on Mission Boulevard

from garnet leads you to Urban Outfitters (4516 Mission Blvd.), various bike-rental shops and Surfindian (4658 Mission Blvd.), a gallery with art inspired by San Diegos most sacred sport. Heading south brings you to Mission

Beach, home to bikini emporium Pilars (3745 Mission Blvd.) and The Basement (3790 Mission Blvd.), with clothing and jew-elry by local designers.

miSSion bay parkMission Bay Park is a 4,000-acre gathering spot for locals and visitors to enjoy outdoor activities including running, biking, skating, kite-flying, sailing and boating.

The park is made up of various coves, points and islands with excellent picnicking spots and fire pits. Several sportfishing charters depart daily from Mission Bay, and a variety of watercraft can be rented from nearby shops. If youre feeling adventurous, try your hand at stand-up paddleboarding.

The west side of the bay is also home to several resort hotels and SeaWorld (see p. 54), the internationally known park shel-tering more than 12,000 aquatic animals. Dont miss Shark encounter, a 57-foot underwater walkway offering a peek into the world of sand tiger, bonnethead and whitetip sharks.

For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 61. For information about restaurants in this area, see page 48.

great find IN BLOOMChildhood friends Kristy and Katherine started Root 75 out of a desire to buy lots and lots of cute things and pretty flowers for a living, and in that lofty goal, theyve suc-ceeded. Floral designer Kristy got together with money-smart Katherine to open this small spotpart indie flower shop, part well-curated home dcor boutiqueon Coronados chic Orange Avenue. The retail selection is small but covetable: charmingly designed tea towels, locally made baby bibs, vintage-style glassware, candles, greeting cards, vases and adorable animal-shape ceramics from Jonathan Adler. Its a must-stop shop for that design snob on your list. Open Tue.-Sun. 845 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.435.6060


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exploring

Uptown

Left to right: In the heart of artsy North Park; the historic Birch North Park Theatre; Hillcrest by night.

Uptown encompasses some of S.D.s most diverse and eclectic neighborhoods. Hillcrest, which borders Balboa Parks northwest corner, is one of the countys most vibrant areas. Adjacent University Heights and Mission Hills are filled with Craftsman-style homes and quaint boutiques. Just east of Hillcrest, a renovated theater, galleries and cafs have helped North Park become San Diegos newest arts district, while its residential neighbor to the south is the areas best-kept secret for unique gift shopping.

HillcrestThe hub of Hillcrest, at the intersection of University and Fifth avenues, is a buzzing, heavily trafficked scene throughout the day, with cars lined up in both directions and joggers, dog-walkers and coffee-sippers crowding the sidewalks.

Fabulous shopping begins at University and First avenues and runs 12 blocks to Park Boulevard. Score vases, candles and home dcor at Cathedral (435 University Ave.), retro urban footwear at Mint (525 University Ave.) and hip mens fashions and home accents at House Boi (1435 University Ave.). Just off the main drag, youll find all manner of headgear at the Village Hat Shop (3821 Fourth Ave.). Leave time to peruse 5th Avenue Books (3838 Fifth Ave.) and Bluestocking Books (3817 Fifth Ave.), whose shelves are lined with out-of-print and rare tomes.

By night, Hillcrest lights up with restaurants, bars and dance clubs and a great art-house movie theater, the Landmark (3965 Fifth Ave. #200).

UNiVersitY HeiGHts & MissiON Hills Northeast of Hillcrest on Park Boulevard lies quaint University Heights, home to ethnic eat-eries and good shopping at places like Frock You (4121 Park Blvd.), a clothing store whose helpful staff knows its stuff when it comes to vintage fashion. University Heights also has an astonishing number of cafs for such a small neighborhood, each catering to a different clientele. We love the back patio at quiet, well-designed Monicas at the Park (1735 Adams Ave.) for a cappuccino break.

The streets of gorgeous Mission Hills, northwest of Hillcrest, are lined with stately homes, quaint cafs and boutiques. Cecilias (928 Fort Stockton Drive #115) offers the latest fashions for women, including lots of stuff by local designers, while Maison en Provence (820 Fort Stockton Drive) carries French country home accessories. Presidio Park, at the western edge of this neighborhood, is historically significant as the site

Hillcrest, Mission Hills, north park: neighborhoods full of culture, character and charm.


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of the first european settlement in California (619.692.4918). Scenic trails lead to the neigh-boring Junpero Serra Museum. The museum, built in 1929, is a replica of the mission erected there in 1769.

NOrtH Park Centered at University Avenue and 30th Street, North Park is San Diegos newest arts district, thanks in part to the restoration of the historic 1928 Birch North Park Theatre (2891 University Ave.). gallery-hopping events are held select Saturday nights from 6 to 9 pm; check northparkarts.org for details.

The area is also home to dozens of inde-pendent clothing and dcor boutiques. We love the organic cotton baby clothes and stylish art books sold at Pigment (3827 30th St.), while Aloha Sunday Supply Co. (3118 Uni-versity Ave.) has a great selection of low-key, surf-inspired clothing and accessories. After dark, North Park comes alive with dozens of bars, clubs and restaurants.

sOUtH Park About a mile south of University on 30th Street lies the quiet neighborhood known as South Park. Though largely residential, South Park does have a few good neighborhood eat-eries and bars, and its a great place to shop for gifts while supporting the local indepen-dent merchants.

Favorite retailers in this area include The Grove bookstore (3010 Juniper St.), which also has a crafting nook inside; modern home furnishings and design emporium Progress (2225 30th St.) and Make Good (2207 Fern St.), with clothing, home accents, jewelry and other items from local crafters. For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 62.

For a list of restaurants in this area, see page 48.

Great fiNd in stitcHescraft is back in scenes ranging from food to beer and now fashion. recalling a time when lifes accoutrements were less disposable is south parks Crow Thief, where respect for the past is evident even in the boutiques design. Vintage chairs, antique fans and reclaimed fenceboard cladding set the stage for owner Melissa Hendrix-lawsons hand-built menswear, which she designs in classic silhouettes out of high-quality fabrics including wool plaid, heavyweight grey denim and breezy cotton. choose from one of the limited-run shirt and jacket options available off the rack or commission your own custom-fit design. closed Mon.-Wed. 3009 grape st., south park, 619.961.6210

Fresh produce at the Hillcrest farmers market, held every Sunday.


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exploring

North Coast

Left to right: the Self-Realization Fellowship in Encinitas; the Del Mar Fairgrounds; the surfer sculpture locals call the Cardiff kook.

Del MarDel Mars celebrity status began more than 70 years ago, when the oceanside paradise became home of the Del Mar Racetrack (2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd.). Actors Bing Crosby and Pat OBrien helped establish the trackand its track record for hosting the Hollywood elite at the Thoroughbred Club. Ava Gardner, W.C. Fields, Lucille Ball, Desi Arnaz, Jimmy Durante and Mickey Rooney were among the regulars in the late 1930s, 40s and 50s. Today, the racing season runs from mid-July to early September, but exciting events are held at the Del Mar Fairgrounds year-round. Jimmy Durante Boulevardnamed for the famous entertainer who lived in Del Mar

paves the way from the track to the heart of the village. The intersection of Camino del Mar and 15th Street forms Del Mars center. The three-story Del Mar Plaza (see p. 56) has scenic fountains and sweeping ocean views, plus upscale shops like clothing boutiques Gerhard and Peaches en Regalia; Loghman Jewelers, with Italian jewelry and watches; and chains like Banana Republic and Sunglass Hut. Theres more retail along Del Mars main street, Camino del Mar, and the area can eas-

ily be covered on foot. The shopping district is lined with gift stores like Sun dancer (1418 Camino del Mar), plus several casual cafs and eateries.More great shopping is a short drive away. East of the Fair grounds, off I-5 on Via de la

Valle, is Flower Hill Promenade (2720 Via de la Valle), where shops include womens boutique TRE, mens clothier Patrick James and Dallman Chocolate Boutique.At the end of the day, walk to Seagrove Park (Coast Blvd. at 15th St.) to enjoy a brilliant

sunset. From the hush of the surf you can almost hear the echo of Bing Crosby, singing the jingle he wrote in honor of the track: Where the turf meets the surf, down at old Del Mar...

Solana BeachSolana Beach is home to some of the most chic stores in San Diego County. The Cedros Design District begins at South Cedros Avenue and Lomas Santa Fe Drive, easily accessible by The Coaster, the train that runs from downtown San Diego to Oceanside.

More than 50 shops spanning a quarter-mile feature fashion, home furnishings and antiques. Most of the boutiques on South Cedros are housed in renovated Quonset huts (iron warehouses shaped like a half-cylinder), giving this neighborhood an artistic feel. Fuel up for your walking tour of the neighborhood at Claires (246 N. Cedros Ave.), across from

Del Mar, Solana Beach, Encinitas, Carlsbad ... These cities exemplify the good life.


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the train station. its the kind of eco-conscious place that provides preferred parking for elec-tric and hybrid cars. then pop in to Tobi Blatt (152 N. Cedros Ave.), with womens clothing from labels like true Religion. Cross lomas santa fe to explore south

Cedros: We love Cedros Soles (143 S. Cedros Ave.) for the latest footwear; HIS (111 S. Cedros Ave. #200), a store geared towards the style-minded guy; and Bixby & Ball (214 S. Cedros Ave.), with linens, home dcor items and other coastal-lifestyle accessories. linger long enough to smell the sweet aromas springing from Mistral (146 S. Cedros Ave.), a small bungalow with soaps and lotions imported from france. farther down the street youll find hip home

dcor and art books at Solo (309 S. Cedros Ave.), the Susan Street Fine Art contemporary art gallery and Curve Couture, a trendy plus-size clothing boutique (both at 415 S. Cedros Ave.).Nestled among the retail shops is one of the

countys top live music venues: The Belly Up Tavern (see p. 58), a solana Beach landmark for more than 35 years.

Encinitas and cardiff-by-thE-sEaHeading north on 101 from solana Beach, youll pass through the small surf community of Cardiff-by-the-sea. Be sure to get a picture with the Cardiff kook, the sculpture of a surfer that locals have fondly ridiculed for years. officially named The Magic Carpet Ride, the statue is often dressed up in outrageous outfits (military fatigues, a toga, a bikini) by anonymous midnight marauders.

As you continue north approaching down-town encinitas, youll see a unique silhouette among the palm trees. the Self-Realization

Fellowship Retreat and Hermitage (215 K St.), with its lotus blossomshaped towers, dates back to 1937. A portion of the grounds is open free to the public. A stroll through the lush, cliffside gardens offers views of surfers at nearby Swamis Beach (1298 S. Coast Hwy. 101), a popular break for longboarders.

up the road, The Lumberyards two-dozen-odd shops include stylish clothier Mog & Rue, modern home-and-garden store Grounded and Chuao Chocolatier, whose gourmet sweets are made from the finest Venezuelan chocolate. theres also an array of wine bars, eateries and cafs, many with outdoor seating (937 S. Coast Hwy. 101).

in the center of downtown, the historic La Paloma Theatre (471 S. Coast Hwy. 101) has anchored the district since the 1920s and still hosts films and concerts. Boutiques and res-taurants also line the strip. the new Pacific Station complex boasts a Whole foods; Icons boutique, with denim and tees; and Bliss 101, an art/home/body shop run by a collective of artisans devoted to the principles of fair trade (687 S. Coast Hwy. 101).North Coast Highway 101 runs through

sleepy Leucadia, where its easy to speed right by gems like Lous Records (434 N. Coast Hwy. 101), with its selection of hip lps and CDs, and Ducky Waddles Emporium (414 N. Coast Hwy. 101), with its excellent col-lection of books on all things arty or bawdy. A great cluster of shops is found at The Gold

Coast (466 N. Coast Hwy. 101), whose tenants include deepFling, with silver jewelry from scandinavian designers, and stylish childrens boutique Daisy Bee. A short drive inland leads to San Diego

Botanic Garden, a 35-acre treasure showcas-ing more than 3,000 rare and exotic plants (see p. 54).

carlsbadDowntown Carlsbad is a picturesque seaside village with tree-lined roads, restaurants and boutique shopping. Along Carlsbad Village Drive, the main drag, youll find two local landmarks: Ocean House (300 Carlsbad Vil-lage Drive), a restaurant and nighttime hot spot that boasts beautiful Victorian architec-ture, and nearby Fraziers Well (2802 Carls-bad Blvd.), where sea captain John frazier discovered mineral water in 1882.Next to ocean House is Carlsbad Village

Faire, a shopping center home to several casual eateries and shops. Retail on nearby state street includes antique stores and shops like Fairen Del (2940 State St.), with an assortment of fine leather goods, shoes, handbags and jewelry.A short drive east of the freeway on

palomar Airport Road leads to great outlet shopping at Carlsbad Premium Outlets (see p. 56), with brand-name stores like BCBG, Kenneth Cole and Michael Kors. Continuing on palomar Airport Road from

the outlets will lead you to another cluster of attractions. LegoLand (see p. 54) is 128 acres of kid- friendly entertainment that includes a new sea life Aquarium. Nearby, the Museum of Making Music (see p. 55) is filled with musical memorabilia. La Costa Resort and Spa (2100 Costa del Mar Road) is home to the Chopra Center for Well Being, with spa therapies and wellness programs created by holistic specialist Deepak Chopra. two miles south of la Costa is The Forum (see p. 57), an outdoor, spanish-style mall whose shops include Tillys surf shop, Anthropologie and organic skincare shop NuboNau. For a map of these neighborhoods, see page

63. For information about restaurants in this area, see page 48.

grEat find SURF CITY STYleBeside the breakers and tucked below The lofts residences is The Den, an appropriately named small boutique that is anything but small on versatility, offering looks ranging from edgy, rocker-chick brands and high-end denim to soft, lacy brassieres by Cosabella. If you prefer the earthy, free-spirit look, try a sea-salt-dyed dress by Indah or create your own necklace by mixing and matching chains and charms by love Heals10 trees are planted with every purchase. looks for guys include tees, button-ups and jeans by House of Howe and KR3W, while childrens apparel comes with a dose of attitude (see: Rock Steady onesies with slogans like Chicks Dig Me). 90 N. Coast Highway 101 #212, encinitas, 760.479.0650


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exploring

Balboa Park

Left to right: the graceful architecture of the House of Hospitality; a bonobo at play at the San Diego Zoo (located inside the park); the Old Globe Theatre.

Spanning 1,200 acres of lush, beautifully landscaped terrain, Balboa Park is known as San Diegos crown jewel, offering a variety of outdoor recreation options for kids and adults alike, not to mention a verdant respite from the bustle of the citys increasingly metropolitan pace. The park is also the seat of San Diegos thriving cultural scene. Nestled between palm trees and botanical gardens, ornate Spanish Colonial buildings house many of the parks museums and art exhibits. Several of the buildings were con-structed as part of two world fairs: the Panama-California Exposition in 191516, and the California-Pacific International Exposition in 193536. It can take more than one day to see and enjoy each museum, garden and attraction.

The Visitors Center (619.239.0512) in the House of Hospitality offers a Passport to Balboa Park, allowing admission to any of the parks museums for one week. (Keep in mind some museums are closed on Mondays.) Deluxe packages include passes to the neighboring San Diego Zoo. Or go high-tech and let the parks new iPhone app be your guide.

ArTS & CUlTUrePerforming arts abound in the park. The Old Globe Theatre routinely presents top talent in world-renowned productions; winter features include the world-premiere holiday musical Some Lovers (through Dec. 31), featuring new tunes by Burt Bacharach, and Horton Footes Dividing the Estate (Jan. 14-Feb. 12), nominated for a Tony in 2009 for Best Play. See p. 49 for more theater listings.

Elsewhere in the park, the Marie Hitchcock Puppet Theatre presents whimsical puppet shows, while Spreckels Organ Pavilion houses the worlds largest outdoor pipe organ, with some 4,500 pipes. Free concerts are offered Sundays at 2 pm.The park is also home to groups celebrating culture. The House of Pacific Relations

International Cottages promotes the heritage of countries around the world by hosting open houses and weekend festivals. Neighboring WorldBeat Center uses art, music, dance and education to celebrate African and indigenous cultures, while Centro Cultural de la Raza is a multidisciplinary center dedicated to the preservation of Chicano/Latino culture.The park has a vast array of institutions celebrating the visual arts, past and present.

Known for its presentation of eclectic traveling exhibitions, the San Diego Museum of Art also has a trove of Renaissance and Baroque works, plus a large Asian collection; exhibitions of Mexican Modernism and Hard-Edge painting are on view this season. The

Art, music and performance bloom year-round.


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greAT Find CRAFT-TASTICAs part of the Gettys monumental Pacific Standard Time initiative surveying Southern Californias impact on the art world, the Mingei International Museum presents San Diegos Craft RevolutionFrom Post-War Modern to California Design. The show spotlights the work of more than 60 unconventional local artistsincluding jewelry designers Toza and Ruth Radakovich, ceramicist Rhoda Lopez, sculptor James Hubbell and Arline Fisch, known for weaving copper wire as if it were fabricwho went on to earn national recognition. People are buzzing about Douglas Deeds chairs made out of recycled beer cans and John Dirks stunning Ibex, carved from teak. Through April 15. 1439 El Prado, 619.239.0003

world-class Museum of Photographic Arts showcases compelling photography and also presents films in its state-of-the-art theater. The Mingei International Museum is dedicated to folk art, craft and design from around the world, while the Timken Museum of Art is home to the Putnam Foundations renowned collection of Euro-pean and Byzantine art, including Russian religious paintings. The San Diego Art Institutes Museum

of the Living Artist presents exhibitions by contemporary local artists every four to six weeks, and the historic Spanish Village Art Center is a collection of 37 studios repre-senting more than 200 artists working in media ranging from sculpture to blown glass; the charming courtyard setting is meant to evoke an Old World town square.

SCienCe & HiSTorYBalboa Parks many non-visual-art museums are a huge draw for children, but most dis-tinguish themselves by crafting exhibitions that also appeal to adult sensibilities.

The San Diego Air and Space Museum salutes aviation with 68 original, reproduc-tion and model airplanes and spacecraft. The Reuben H. Fleet Science Center has interactive science exhibitions and an IMAX Dome theater. The countrys largest multi-sports museum, the San Diego Hall of Champions has interactive displays inviting sports fans to test their athletic and broad-casting skills. From antiques to hot rods, the San Diego Automotive Museums collection illustrates the evolution of the automobile.The San Diego Natural History Museums

life-sized T-Rex skeleton, fossil exhibits and 3-D theater let visitors explore the natural world. Dedicated to the study of anthropol-

The iconic Museum of Man



Open every daywith free parking. Located in beautifulBalboa Park.

(619) 238-1233 www.rhfleet.org

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San Diegos only IMAX DomeTheater plus 100+ Hands-OnScience Exhibits

San Diego Natural History Museum

ogy, the San Diego Museum of Man explores cultures of the world, especially the Americas. The largest of its kind, the Model Railroad

Museum boasts scale models and interactive features for children. The Museum of San Diego History features traveling shows and exhibitions culled from the Historical Societys vast collection. At the Veterans Museum & Memorial

Center visitors will find military uniforms from World War I, Vietnam and the Korean War, as well as maritime paintings by local artists and other displays.The Marston House, an Arts & Crafts

mansion designed in 1905 by noted archi-tect Irving Gill, is a must for history and architecture buffs; the grounds also feature a carriage house and gardens.

ATTrACTionS & gArdenSThe parks major attraction is, of course, the San Diego Zoo (see p. 54), with some 4,000 rare and endangered species. Among the animal residents youll find the much-beloved meerkats, Asian and African elephants, monkeys, birds and more. Be sure to stop by Panda Canyon to say hello to the newest member of the clan, Yun Zi.

After visiting the zoo, try your hand at the brass ring game from your perch atop a hand-carved pony on the Balboa Park Carousel. Both kids and grown-ups are welcome on the Balboa Park Miniature Rail-road, which takes a 3-minute, half-mile trip through four acres of the park.The park also features several gardens, a

legacy left by its founding mother, bota-nist Kate Sessions. Complete with ornate fountains and colorful tiling, the Spanish-style Alcazar Garden, which abuts the Art Institute and Mingei Museum, blooms with 7,000 brilliantly colored annuals. The Japa-nese Friendship Garden features a Zen med-itation garden and bonsai exhibit, while the sunken Zoro Garden has an interesting his-tory: It was designed as a nudist colony dur-ing the 1935 California-Pacific International Exposition but is now a habitat for monarch, sulfur and swallowtail butterflies. Also built for the Expo, the Old Cactus Garden has succulents and other exotic plants.

With some 2,100 orchids, ferns, poinset-tias and other plants, the Botanical Building is among the worlds largest lath structures; along with its gorgeous Lily Pond, its one of the parks most photographed sites.



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reCreATion From hiking and jogging to tennis and bocce ball, youll find it in the park. The Balboa Park Activity Center has facilities for badminton, table tennis, volleyball and more, while the Balboa Park Municipal Golf Course offers striking views of downtown and Coronado.

At Texas and Upas streets, on the parks northeast end, the Morley Field Sports Complex is a haven for disc golf fans and other sports nuts, boasting a pool, velo-drome, archery range and bocce court. Check in here for information on the many hike and bike trails through Florida Canyon, a popular workout spot for joggers.

The nearby Balboa Tennis Club is open to the public, with 25 courts and a full-service pro shop, plus lessons and clinics.

The dapper, white-clad members of the San Diego Lawn Bowling Club, which has been around for more than 75 years, play six days a week near the corner of Sixth Ave. and Laurel St. Visitors are welcome to join the fun and receive a free lesson. There are also a few leash-free dog parks

here, including one at Balboa Drive and El Prado, south of the Cabrillo Bridge, and another at Morley Field, northwest of the tennis courts.

diningSeveral casual snack bars and coffee carts can be found throughout the park and inside certain museums. For a sit-down experience, try The Prado, whose lively, colorful interior and charming garden pationot to mention hearty American cuisine, refreshing salads and exotic South American cocktailshave made it a long-time local favorite. The Tea Pavilion at the Japanese Friend-

ship Garden serves tea, noodles and sushi in a casual setting, while the Sculpture Court Caf at the San Diego Museum of Art is a good bet for salads and sandwiches. For the at-home gourmand, the Balboa

Park Food & Wine School has classes in everything from fondue-making to sushi rolling taught by celebrated local chefs, plus wine education. Make sure to make reserva-tions in advance, though, as classes tend to fill up quickly. A map of Balboa Park is on page 62.

Museums and attractions are listed in the where guide.



steele canyon golf clubA perfect combination of scenery and challenge, this 27-hole course in the East County community of Jamul is the only one in San Diego designed by Gary Player. It features three distinct courses, each with four sets of tees that invite all levels o

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WHERE San Diego Magazine Winter 2012