Wheel Bearing Replacement - Guru's Guide W_pics - NASIOC

Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Friday October 1, 2010

Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage

Brakes & Suspension Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack

Losing traction? Need new tires?

Click here to visit the NASIOC Upgrade Garage...

NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Brakes, Steering & Suspension

Wheel Bearing Replacement - Guru's guide

w/pics

User Name User Name Remember Me?

Password Log in

Register Forum Rules FAQ Members List Calendar

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!

Welcome to the NASIOC.comSubaru forum.

You are currently viewing ourforum as a guest, which givesyou limited access to viewmost discussions and accessour other features. By joiningour community, free of charge,you will have access to posttopics, communicate privatelywith other members (PM),respond to polls, uploadcontent and access manyother special features.Registration is free, fast andsimple, so please join ourcommunity today!

If you have any problems with the registrationprocess or your account login, please contact us.

* Registered users of the site donot see these ads.

Page 1 of 21 1 2 3 4 5 11 > Last »

Thread Tools Display Modes

06-12-2005,

04:25 AM #1

HotrodguruScooby Guru

Member#:37210Join Date: May2003Chapter/Region:InternationalLocation: in a

Shotgun HouseFTW!Vehicle:2002 TarmacBugeye 2007 Muddy FJCruiser

Wheel Bearing Replacement - Guru's guide w/pics

So what was supposed to be a nice beautiful Saturday to go driving turned into a get under the Subbie and bust out

the tools to wrench day. For the last month what I thought was maybe tire wear causing some road noise turned out

to be a bearing going bad. It was confirmed yesterday when I took a slow turn and heard a knocking, popping,

something’s just not right type sound. Not bad for 90k miles on the car with LOTS of track days. So after much

research and reading I decided to tackle the job. Before you start these are a few things you MUST HAVE or at least

Ads by Google Wheel Bearing CV Joint Axle CV Shaft Replacement Front Axle

SKF Bearing Replacements www.ImpactBearing.com

Your Source For New & Replacement Bearings.Great Prices & Selection.

Bearing Repair Experts www.scheererbearing.com

Save Money & Time Reconditioning Large Balland Roller Bearings

Bearing Installation www.americanprecisionassembly.com/

Specialized in Bearing Installation BearingStaking & Bearing Swaging

10/1/2010 Wheel Bearing Replacement - Guru's gu…

forums.nasioc.com/…/showthread.php?… 1/30

have access to (to get an idea or picture hit up http://www.snapon.com/):

1. Ball joint / tie rod separator.

2. A nice press.

3. Bearing separator.

4. Bearing & seal drivers (really large sockets will work as well)

Alot of good info was found here on NABISCO but none of the threads had pictures nor pointed out some of the

troublesome things I ran into. The Subbie manual (The PDF version I have) makes things kinda complex. After starting

on the left side of the vehicle the following illustrations and photos show the order of sequence I did the right side with

which seemed to go really smooth after having first done the left. Please use this thread to assist you and not

necessarily as a guideline. The threads I searched and found assisted me quite a bit and hope this adds to them. If

you've done this and maybe did it in a different order or with some easier steps please feel free to provide some

feedback.

Just wanna see the pics, click the link (Some pics are NOT IN ORDER) -

http://www.revo1.com/subbiebearing/index.htm

Guru

Disassembly

1. Well once you figure out you're going to need to replace the bearings it's best to do them as a set. Actually

it should be the only way. You'll need to get the bearings, outer seal, inner seals, snap rings and metal bands

for CV Boots.

2. To start like stated in the pic, you'll have to get the 1 1/4 axle nut loose. Easiest to break it loose with tires

on the ground, if you can't have someone hold the brakes.







3. Remove all the standard brake items, caliper, pads, and caliper bracket. You'll need a 12mm, 14mm and a

17mm.



* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

06-12-2005,

04:25 AM #2

HotrodguruScooby Guru Member#:37210Join Date: May2003

Chapter/Region:InternationalLocation: in aShotgun HouseFTW!Vehicle:2002 Tarmac

Bugeye 2007 Muddy FJ

4. Now that you've removed the brake caliper and other items, place them aside and secure the brake caliper

on top (zip tie to the spring) to get it out of the way. Remove or loosen the following items (this is the order I

did it in).

1. ABS sensor - 12mm.

2. Upper AND lower ball joints (picture only shows upper) - 19mm.

3. Strut bolts (leave these in loose till you remove the CV boot bands) - 19mm.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 800x1066.

Wheel Bearings www.PartsHighway.com

Discount Axle Hub Assemblies Foreign andDomestic Vehicles

Front Axle Nut Yahoo.com

Everything to do with Front Axle Nut items.

Composite Bearings PolygonComposites.com/Bearings

Permanently lubricated - PTFE lined Longerlifespan - Less maintenance

Pre Owned Forester www.YarkSubaru.net/Used

Browse Toledo's Largest Selection of UsedSubarus. Call 866-912-5061!



2007 Muddy FJCruiser





After a good recommendation by Gary S, I decided to update this pic. You have an option here, I do think it's a

tad bit easier to loosen the 14mm and drop the A-arm.



5. Now it's time to remove the ball joints, CV boot bands and then removing the strut tower bolts.

EDIT - The following step (the next 2 pictures) IS NOT NECESARY to change

out the wheel bearings. I removed the bands and CV boots solely to replace

the grease while I was at it.





Loosen and remove the 19mm bolts that hold the strut tower to the hub.

6. Now everything’s off and you're ready to remove the hub and take it to a shop, the garage or wherever you

have a press and bearing tools.



Last edited by Hotrodguru; 06-25-2005 at 01:21 PM.

06-12-2005,

04:26 AM #3


Chapter/Region:InternationalLocation: in aShotgun HouseFTW!

6. Now its time to disassembly the hub. I think it’s easiest to explain simply by referring to the pics. The hub

assembly does have to be disassembled in this order.

1. Press the hub out (inside out).

2. Press the bearing out (outside in).

3. If needed use the bearing separator to remove the outer bearing that tends to stay on.



FTW!Vehicle:2002 TarmacBugeye 2007 Muddy FJ

Cruiser



NICE!



Last edited by Hotrodguru; 08-17-2005 at 09:17 AM.

06-12-2005,

04:26 AM #4


Chapter/Region:InternationalLocation: in aShotgun HouseFTW!Vehicle:2002 Tarmac

Bugeye 2007 Muddy FJ

Assembly of Hub

Press the following items in this order.

1. Bearing (inside out)

2. Seal (outer seal, before inserting hub)

3. Hub (outside in)

4. Seal (inner), the seal with the lip is the inner seal, lip goes pointing towards the axle and acts as a dust

shield



2007 Muddy FJCruiser








06-12-2005,

04:26 AM #5


Chapter/Region:InternationalLocation: in aShotgun HouseFTW!Vehicle:2002 TarmacBugeye

Assembly of hub back on car.

This is simple and you’re home free now. Make sure to take the opportunity at this time to clean out all the old

grease from the CV Joint and replacing it with some nice new stuff. I like the Lucas Red “N” Tacky #2 which is

good up to 540F. Once you freshly grease it, all you have to do is assemble it in the reverse order of which

you disassembled. Make sure to torque all the bolts back to factory specs. Last thing to do is to tighten the

axle nut and bending it down to lock on the axle. I had someone hold the brakes when I tightened it up and

that was it.



Bugeye 2007 Muddy FJCruiser





Breakdown on front axle assembly






06-12-2005, 12:52 PM #6

BIGSKYWRXScooby Guru Member#: 7958Join Date: Jul 2001Location: Plains of EasternMontana

Vehicle:09 GH B+

Thank you kind Sir! We (me ) have been wanting to see a nicely

outlined tutorial for a long time.

Couple of questions if I may- the sockets used to press out/in are

common sizes- you don't recall how big the biggest one was by

chance?

What's the purpose of the bearing seperator? Does the used bearing

need to be seperated?

good tip on the CV grease- are the bands difficult to reinstall - how is it

done?

Did you repack the oem bearings w/ any "special grease? Would this be

difficult to do if one wanted to (I've seen a couple of high temp greases

mentioned in previous wheel bearing threads)?

Thanks again!

Mike

06-12-2005, 03:14 PM #7

Patrick OlsenNASIOC Supporter

Member#: 120Join Date: Jul 1999Chapter/Region: AKICLocation: Where the Navysends me...Vehicle:1997 Legacy 2.5GT

QuickSilver Metallic

I'm with Mike, this is something I've wanted to see a good tutorial on

for a while. I think I might have a left front wheel bearing going, but I

wasn't sure it was something I could do myself.

The only question I have is why did you remove the band from the CV

boot? Based on personal experience (I've replaced both my front axles

in the past couple years) you should be able to just pull the outer

splined portion right out of the hub without touching the CV boot itself,

especially since the steering knuckle is unbolted from the strut. There

should be plenty of play there. That would save you from some messy

work. Or is there something else I'm missing?

And I guess I have the same question as Mike about repacking the

wheel bearing with "better" grease. I seem to recall that Gary Sheehan

had wheel bearing problems on his USTCC car due to the extreme heat

he was putting into the brakes, and I vaguely recall him saying they



disassembled the OEM bearings to repack them with higher temp

grease.

Pat Olsen

'97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan

06-12-2005, 03:17 PM #8

rootScooby Specialist Member#: 55854Join Date: Feb 2004Location: Central FLVehicle:

2004 STi Blue/silver

Yippy! I've been hoping someone would write this up with photos.

06-12-2005, 03:37 PM #9

ArnieScooby Guru Member#: 1725Join Date: Jun 2000Chapter/Region: International

Location: Hamburg,DeutschlandVehicle:02 dentedrustedbug www.RaceDotCom.com

Yeah, SubySpecialties out here in SoCal does the same with their

bearing installs. They completely clean out the stock grease and

replace it with high quality high temp race grease.

06-12-2005, 03:58 PM #10

fragmentScooby Specialist Member#: 8050

Join Date: Jul 2001Chapter/Region: W. CanadaLocation: Bugeye EJ207 -T3T04SVehicle:2007 Wagon VF36

Nice!

I just printed it to a PDF in case your pics go away at some time in the

future.

I always wanted to buy a press, now I have an excuse.

06-12-2005, 08:08 PM #11

GarySheehanScooby Specialist

Member#: 2450Join Date: Sep 2000Chapter/Region: BAICLocation: SF Bay AreaVehicle:1996 GST Motorsports Time Attack "L" - White

Good write-up.

I would recommend unbolting the lower balljoint from the upright rather

than pulling the balljoint out of the control arm. Much less work and risk

of damage by unbolting from upright. Unless, of course, the balljoint is

damaged and needs to be replaced anyway.

Gary

Sheehan Motor Racing

www.teamSMR.com

06-12-2005, 08:14 PM #12

BLACK02WAGONScooby Specialist Member#: 32574

Join Date: Feb 2003Chapter/Region: South EastLocation: North CarolinaVehicle:2004 STi WRB 402whp/400wtq

Absolutely exceptional write up.

Nice work

06-12-2005, 08:27 PM #13



HotrodguruScooby Guru Member#: 37210

Join Date: May 2003Chapter/Region: InternationalLocation: in a Shotgun HouseFTW!Vehicle:2002 Tarmac Bugeye 2007 Muddy FJ Cruiser

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGSKYWRX

the sockets used to press out/in are common sizes- you don't

recall how big the biggest one was by chance?

What's the purpose of the bearing seperator? Does the used

bearing need to be seperated?

are the bands difficult to reinstall - how is it done?

The sockets you can use will be pretty huge, I believe about 2 inches

or larger. Luckily at my friends shop they work on 18 wheelers so they

had an assortment of big sockets.

As for the bearing separator, well when we pushed the hub off the

bearing the lower bearing on both assemblies stayed on. You use the

bearing separator to clamp around the bearing allowing you to push the

axle out while holding the bearing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen

why did you remove the band from the CV boot?

And I guess I have the same question as Mike about repacking

the wheel bearing with "better" grease.

Well I just removed the band because my car had 90k miles on it. Lots

of track days and lots of standing water in Houston. Just wanted to

clean it out and replace with some new grease.

As for replacing the bearing with higher temp grease. I don't know if it's

really necessary but lots of people have said so. I think I was lucky to

get sooo many miles on my bearings. Luckily I did have availability to a

bearing grease packer (MUST HAVE TOOL if you want to do this) and

went ahead and replaced the OEM grease.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GarySheehan

I would recommend unbolting the lower balljoint from the

upright rather than pulling the balljoint out of the control arm.

Much less work and risk of damage by unbolting from upright.

Ahhh nice...I thought about it but wasn't sure. Now I get a confirmation

, thanks for the tip.

Guru

06-12-2005, 09:27 PM #14

BIGSKYWRXScooby Guru Member#: 7958Join Date: Jul 2001Location: Plains of EasternMontana

Vehicle:09 GH B+

OK- thanks that makes sense on the seperator.

Yeah there is just a small bolt that is removed on the knuckle and you

can tap down on the control arm and the ball joint will fall out ( if

doesn't you can use a beefy screw driver or small pry bar to gently

open the gap so that it does).

Just googled the bearing grease packer- looks like a very handy tool

(don't even have to get your hands dirty )

One other question- according to the FSM the press needed doesn't

look like it has to be very powerful (calls for a low torque)- did you find

this to be true?

06-12-2005, 10:17 PM #15

forced4Scooby Guru



Member#: 13304Join Date: Dec 2001Chapter/Region: TXIC

Location: On Da Xtreme DriftzCircuitVehicle:2002 WRX WRB De Re Metallica

Thanks for the writeup Jay...I think I have some front bearings going

bad as well.

06-12-2005, 10:40 PM #16

HotrodguruScooby Guru Member#: 37210

Join Date: May 2003Chapter/Region: InternationalLocation: in a Shotgun HouseFTW!Vehicle:2002 Tarmac Bugeye 2007 Muddy FJ Cruiser

Well the only one we had access to was a 20 ton press down one. One

thing I've always done is place a little grease on the mating surfaces

such as say the bearing outer and hub inner to prevent so much

pressure and friction when pressing items. Even with a little grease

you'll hear some popping as the hub gets passed the inner and outer

races of the bearing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGSKYWRX

One other question- according to the FSM the press needed

doesn't look like it has to be very powerful (calls for a low

torque)- did you find this to be true?

Edited the part of the write-up with big red letters where I removed the

CV bands and boots. This step is not necessary and was done only

because I need to change out the grease . D_REX (TXIC)

recommened the edit to prevent a first timer from thinking this was a

necessary step.

Guru

06-13-2005, 08:45 AM #17

dwxScooby Guru Member#: 8343Join Date: Jul 2001Chapter/Region: MWSOC

Location: Atlanta, GAVehicle:2005 Forester XT 2000 PS F250

I've done the bearings on all 4 corners, just as preventative

maintenance. I would recommend replacing the factory grease.

I would also recommend not re-using the axle nuts, buy new ones.

Don't torque the axle nut down with the car on the ground, and make

sure you have a torque wrench that goes pretty high.

These days Subaru changes them with the upright on the car, using a

couple specialty tools and just removing the axle/brake assembly .

06-13-2005, 11:02 PM #18

Lucky LoserScooby Guru Member#: 70055Join Date: Sep 2004Chapter/Region: InternationalLocation: The Last ofVehicle:

The Famous International Playboys

THis should be a sticky...

iln

06-14-2005, 09:24 AM #19

LyveWRXScooby Specialist Member#: 19057Join Date: May 2002Chapter/Region: MWSOCLocation: Mid-Town, Detroit, MI

Vehicle:2002 WRX & Red Ford 1-ton Van

Do you suppose you could caliper a few of the critical dimensions you

used on the sockets to press the bearings in and out. I would love to

draw a universal set of rings/pushers in SolidWorks and have a set

made.

Our local dealer hasnt responded ot my request to come and borrow his

for a day to CMM and rev-eng them.



06-14-2005, 09:34 AM #20

BIGSKYWRXScooby Guru Member#: 7958Join Date: Jul 2001Location: Plains of Eastern

MontanaVehicle:09 GH B+

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyveWRX

Do you suppose you could caliper a few of the critical

dimensions you used on the sockets to press the bearings in

and out. I would love to draw a universal set of rings/pushers in

SolidWorks and have a set made.

Our local dealer hasnt responded ot my request to come and

borrow his for a day to CMM and rev-eng them.

2nd that

06-14-2005, 10:21 AM #21

HotrodguruScooby Guru Member#: 37210Join Date: May 2003

Chapter/Region: InternationalLocation: in a Shotgun HouseFTW!Vehicle:2002 Tarmac Bugeye 2007 Muddy FJ Cruiser

Quote:


Do you suppose you could caliper a few of the critical

dimensions you used on the sockets to press the bearings in

and out. I would love to draw a universal set of rings/pushers in

SolidWorks and have a set made.

Our local dealer hasnt responded ot my request to come and

borrow his for a day to CMM and rev-eng them.

Sure...if you can get me a set made at a good price . Just let me

know which exact measurements you're looking for so I don't miss any.

I'm assuming you'll need the dimensions for the hub as well seeing it's

pressed into the bearing and you have to push it out.

Guru

06-14-2005, 11:27 AM #22

LyveWRXScooby Specialist Member#: 19057Join Date: May 2002

Chapter/Region: MWSOCLocation: Mid-Town, Detroit, MIVehicle:2002 WRX & Red Ford 1-ton Van

Well we'll have to see, I can at least draw up some B/P.

Hmmm... I dont really know how the bearing is pushed. I'll need at least

ID/OD and other diameters that dont ruin the bearing when pushing on

it. Since I've not done this you may need to give me lots of details.

Also minimum length could be usefull also.

Last edited by LyveWRX; 06-14-2005 at 02:40 PM.

06-14-2005, 03:47 PM #23

ammelkScooby Newbie Member#: 85460Join Date: Apr 2005Chapter/Region: NWICLocation: RochesterVehicle:07 RallyX NITRO

White

this is super. thanks for the great write up..i want to redo mine, and I

was worried. Its not harding then the 4x4's I've owned and done this

to.. heck its even easier

thanks again for the super write up..

now.. lets sticky this bad boy..

06-14-2005, 04:39 PM #24

eltroubleScooby Specialist Member#: 79493 Great write-up, this definitely deserves a sticky.



Digg del.icio.us StumbleUpon Google Facebook

My Yahoo!

Join Date: Jan 2005Chapter/Region: SCICLocation: Cerritos, CAVehicle:

2003 WRB WRX Wagon 5 doors > 4 doors

06-15-2005, 03:43 PM #25

HotrodguruScooby Guru Member#: 37210Join Date: May 2003Chapter/Region: InternationalLocation: in a Shotgun House

FTW!Vehicle:2002 Tarmac Bugeye 2007 Muddy FJ Cruiser

Quote:


Well we'll have to see, I can at least draw up some B/P.

Hmmm... I dont really know how the bearing is pushed. I'll need

at least ID/OD and other diameters that dont ruin the bearing

when pushing on it. Since I've not done this you may need to

give me lots of details.

Also minimum length could be usefull also.

I'll get you all the dimensions this weekend if I get a chance. Work has

me slaving currently, haha. I'm going to see if I can go up to the dealer,

have them pull a new bearing, hub and I'll measure and photograph the

dimensions.

Guru

Page 1 of 21 1 2 3 4 5 11 > Last »

Bookmarks

« Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Posting Rules

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your posts

BB code is OnSmilies are On[IMG] code is On

HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Brakes, Steering & Suspension Go

Similar Threads

Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post

Rear Wheel Bearing

Replacement Walkthrough,with pics

motohippy Brakes, Steering & Suspension 5109-25-2010

04:25 PM

To those who've had wheelbearings replaced

SubEd New England Impreza Club Forum -- NESIC 901-01-2002

02:37 PM

Wheel bearing replacement? rhdude Mid Atlantic Impreza Club -- MAIC 210-10-2001

04:27 PM

DIY Wheel BearingReplacement?

mav1c Brakes, Steering & Suspension 110-02-2001

10:13 PM

Wheel Bearing Replacement? LUME Brakes, Steering & Suspension 209-18-2001

04:57 PM

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:37 AM.

Contact Us - Advertising - Archive - Privacy - Terms - Top



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0

Copyright ©2000 - 2010, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.Copyright ©1999 - 2010, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.



Documents

Wheel Bearing Replacement - Guru's Guide W_pics - NASIOC