PrePare thesand base

Bedding sand provides support for the pavers, but will not hide irregularities in the base course or sub-grade. It should be well-graded and damp, but not wet.

Only spread enough sand for the pavers you’ll lay in one session. Store sand for later use in a covered pile to maintain its moisture level. Use runners and a straight edge to aid screeding. The final compacted sand depth once the pavers are laid should be 30mm. You will generally need to start with between 5 and 10mm more than the desired sand thickness.

LaY the PaVers Lay the pavers in the chosen pattern, starting from the straightest convenient edge. If you are working on a sloping site then lay pavers up hill. Avoid laying downhill if possible.

Maintaining a nominal joint of 3mm between pavers is essential to allow sand penetration and paving performance.

If you need to cut pavers for edge filling, use a concrete saw or paving splitter (available from hire centres) or a bolster chisel for smaller areas.

Keep vehicles off the paved area until complete and if a loaded wheelbarrow has to cross it, lay timber running boards.

ComPaCt thePaVers

For smaller areas use a rubber mallet to compact. For larger areas use a plate compactor, available from most hire centres. However, do not use a plate compactor on large paving or flagstones as it could cause them to break. Courtyard Flagstones, Grass Pavers and Gobi Blocks should also be compacted with a rubber mallet rather than with a compacter.

Once the pavers are compacted, sweep dry joint sand (following the instructions on the bag) into the joints. Go over with a plate vibrator again and repeat the process until all joints are filled. Do not vibrate pavers that are more than 450mm x 450mm as it may cause them to crack.

Grass Pavers and Gobi Blocks don’t require jointing sand. Once compacted into place by the rubber mallet, spread topsoil and sow grass seed or, for a different look, fill the voids with decorative pebbles.

Finishing touChes Joints in pavements with a high traffic volume will seal quite quickly and little further maintenance will be necessary. For areas such as patios or paths where pavers may be vacuum cleaned or washed regularly, joints may need periodic topping up.

mitre 10 handy hints:• To maintain a just laid look, a variety of sealers

are available. Unsealed paving will naturally weather, making colours appear less intense.

hoW to LaYPaVing

REORDER CODE: EA1250B8

What You’LL needTake this into store with you to make sure you get everything in one trip. For this project the following materials and equipment are required:

materiaLs:

Pavers Quantity dependent on size of pavers

Granular fill for the base course General All Purpose 7mm (GAP7) for walkway areas,

General All Purpose 40mm (GAP40) for driveways

Bedding Sand Clean, well graded and preferably river sand, No1 or No3

Joint Sand Pave Sand™, Pavelock®, River Sand No1 or Pave Fill

PVC Pipes

NOTE: The colour of concrete products can vary between batches, so obtain all the pavers you’ll need for your project from one supplier in one order. If your paving projects will use more than one pallet of pavers, “mix and match” from each pallet to ensure a uniform mix of colours.

tooLs:

Cobble Cutter, Diamond Saw or a Circular Saw with a masonry blade - to cut the pavers

Runners and straight edge - to screed the sand

Wheelbarrow

Rubber mallet

Plate compactor

Safety glasses and hearing protectors

Stakes and string line

Gloves

Level

Tape measure

Shovel

sCan With Your smartPhone Qr aPP

or VieW onLine at MiTre10.co.nz

base CoursePreParation

If the heel test indicated you need a base course, lay this next. It should comprise granular material with hard durable particles free from organic material. The maximum aggregate size of the material should be no more than 1/3 the thickness of the layer. Lay the base course in layers of no more than 100mm and compact to a uniform dense condition, especially around manholes and kerbs.

Stylish patios and paths. Strong, long lasting driveways. Good-looking, safe pool and spa surrounds.

Paving is a convenient, affordable way to add value to your home.

The combinations of shape, pattern and colour available make paving an attractive choice for both new homes and improvements to existing homes. With a little planning and preparation, even large areas can be paved to a high standard by the DIY enthusiast.

And remember, if you have any questions about your paving project, talk to a staff member at your local Mitre 10 store.

Table 1: Heel test, to determine base course requirement

Sub grade conditions Weak Medium Strong

Heel Test Walking leaves strong impression

Heel test leaves impression

Heel test and walking leaves no impression

Driveways - light vehicle traffic

Layer of granular base material 175mm deep

Layer of granular base material 125mm deep

Layer of granular base material 75mm deep

Pedestrian use only

Layer of granular base material 125mm deep

Layer of granular base material 50mm deep

No granular base material required

NOTE: The maximum aggregate size should be less than 1/3 the depth of the required base course. So if 100mm layer of base course material is required, use gravel with a maximum aggregate size of 33mm. This will allow better compaction of individual layers. On a very weak

getting startedPlan the job

Select your preferred paver ensuring it is suitable for your job. Remember, there will be some material loss in cutting and this needs to be accounted for in estimating.

NOTE: Paver number per m² is based on an average joint size of 3mm.

Determine and mark the final level, considering runoff from buildings, downpipes and adjacent sections. To avoid “ponding” allow a slope of between 15 and 30mm per metre for good runoff.

Choose a laying pattern 45° Herringbone - Recommended for vehicle use with the main axis aligned with traffic direction.

Stretcherbond.

Basketweave.

It’s important to think about the laying pattern you want as this is just as important as the choice of colour, size and texture. Patterns and fixed edging create the strength in your path or driveway. They prevent paving becoming loose and spreading; particularly on driveways where vehicles are turning and tyres put strain on the individual pavers.

Calculating the excavation depth The paved area will need excavation to the combined total depth of your pavers, compacted bedding sand layer (20 to 30mm) and compacted base course layer (if required).

To calculate this depth, excavate a representative area to expose the sub-grade, and do the “heel test”.

clay subgrade a geotextile fabric will prevent clay from pushing up into the base material.From the results of the heel test and the thickness of your pavers, calculate the required excavation depth.

Table 2: Calculation of excavation depth (example only)

Item Dimension (example only)

Paver thickness 50mm

Depth of compacted sand layer 30mm

Depth of compacted base course layer 100mm

Total excavation depth 180mm

sub-gradePreParation

Remove all top soil and excavate to the required depth. If the excavated surface (sub-grade) requires filling to reach the desired level, use existing organic-free material if available. Fill in compacted layers of no more than 100mm, and compact using a plate compactor or rammer. The finished subgrade should match the exact contour chosen for the final paving, within a tolerance of +0 to -20mm at any point.

staY saFe:Make sure you wear the appropriate safety gear when using tools and machinery; ear muffs, sturdy footwear, goggles and a dust mask should be the minimum requirement.

If using an electric power tool always use a residual current device to prevent shock.

Limitation of LiabilityThis project planner has been produced to provide basic information and our experienced staff are available to answer any questions you may have. Because this planner is general in nature, neither your Mitre 10 supplier nor their staff are responsible for the application of these design principles in any particular case, as the contents of this brochure may need to be modified for the particular site and circumstances.Mitre 10 is not responsible for the quality of work carried out on the goods by the consumer and is not responsible for the design or construction of any structure in which the goods are incorporated.Where applicable consumers should ensure that they comply with The New Zealand Building Code and/or Local Body Bylaws in respect of any such structures.Consumers are advised to call a qualified tradesman such as a builder, electrician or plumber where expert services are required.Mitre 10 will not be liable for any consequential loss howsoever arising from the use of goods sold, nor for any loss caused by defective or inadequate structures in which goods are incorporated.

For more easy As Guides visit mitre10.co.nz

edge restraints Edge restraints add strength by preventing sideways movement of pavers. Where present, existing paths or structures will suffice.

An alternative to these is “haunching”, where the outer pavers are held by concrete starting approximately half way down the side of the pavers and angled down-wards at 45° to a further depth of 100mm.

mitre 10 handy hints:• it’s useful to make a scaled drawing of the

area you are paving using graph paper to sketch the design you want.

mitre 10 handy hints:• Add interest to your paving by laying a “soldier

course” and/or “chaser course”. A chaser course is a row of pavers, usually of a contrasting colour, laid in the opposite direction immediately inside the soldier course.

• remember to consider drainage. Make sure that the area to be paved slopes away from the house to ensure proper drainage.