Weekend Jobs:

THE GARDENStep-by-step projects to transform your outside space

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W ith sharply defined edges, the choice of a straight or curving shape and that satisfying crunch underfoot, gravelled path in the garden adds a note of elegance. And in these financially prudent times a gravel path is the quickest and cheapest way of making a path for the garden.

Gravel has practical advantages, too. First, rain will permeate through it and soak away into the soil. This means that during heavy rainfall there won’t be a problem caused by run-off. Secondly, if at a later date you decide to alter the garden layout, a gravel path is easily reversible. Gravel must be kept in its place otherwise it quite quickly disperses; it can be a hazard

if allowed to stray on to lawns. Simple timber gravel boards will overcome this, nailed to wooden pegs at one-metre intervals, but decorative edges are both functional and attractive, especially during the winter when gardens can tend to look quite bleak and featureless.

Before starting any work, mark out the proposed route with string or marking paint. Live with this for a while to make sure you have chosen the ideal position. Approach it from different directions and look at the effect from inside, from downstairs and upstairs windows. Gravel and decorative aggregates are available from builders’ merchants and garden centres.

1 Use a length of hosepipe to firm up position. If the path runs adjacent to the house, ensure it’s at least 6 inches below the level of the damp-proof course. Leave a gap of at least 9 inches between walls and path so heavy rain doesn’t wet the walls.

2 Dig an edging trench. The depth depends on the soil, the height of the edging and the ‘upstand’ – the difference in height between the top of the edging and the path. Compact the base with the head of a rake. Lay a concrete foundation of around 4 inches deep at the bottom of the trench. Smooth with a trowel and check levels.

3 Once the concrete has set, fix up a string line to guide the top of the edgings. Set up a second line to guide the front edge. Spread an even layer of mortar to bed the edging stones. Allow a gap of around 3-4mm between each one. Cover with plastic sheeting.

4 Wait a few days for the mortar to set then use concrete to support the edging. This is carried out behind the edging stones for up to two thirds of the height. Use a trowel to slope the concrete away from the edging to aid drainage.

You will need: l Steel tape l String l Spirit level l Sharp spade l Rake l Concrete l Hardcore (optional depending on quality of soil – see step six) l Mortar l Brick trowel l Gravel or decorative aggregate (allow 40kg per m2)

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5 Allow the edging to dry sufficiently before tackling the path. Remove grass and soil to a depth of 4-6 inches; the depth will depend upon soil conditions. Remove grass and all vegetation otherwise this will rot down and cause unevenness.

6 For narrow paths use the head of a rake or a sturdy piece of wood to firm down the soil. For larger paths use a garden roller or hire a vibrating plate. If the sub-soil is soft, add a few inches of hardcore or scalping stone and compact once more. Level with gravel to prevent the hardcore working to the surface as the ground settles.

7 Lay a piece of discarded carpet or a layer of permeable membrane, which allows rain to pass through it but will keep the gravel separate from the soil below. It will help to keep the path weed-free, too. Ensure you rake the stones occasionally to keep the path smooth.

8 With a rake, spread gravel to a depth of 2-3cm evenly on to the membrane. Gravel and decorative aggregates come in a variety of colours, from buff to pink and grey. Bear in mind existing landscaping colours when choosing.

MAKE A GRAVEL PATH

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U sually the first thing to greet guests at your home, an entrance gate needs to create a favourable impression. This traditional-style metal garden gate is tough and hardwearing but needs occasional maintenance to keep it looking at its best. Ferrous metals such as cast iron, wrought iron and steel must be protected from the weather, otherwise damaging and disfiguring corrosion will soon set in.

If metal has been overpainted many times, the fine detailing will be obscured. So if there is a heavy build-up of paint or if

large areas are affected with rust, it is often best to strip off all the original paint. This can be done with a chemical paint stripper or a hot air gun. Paint applied before the mid 1960s may contain lead so don’t burn it off as it will give off fumes. It is sometimes easier to take metal gates to an industrial stripping company.

Nowadays metalwork is painted black but Georgian railings and gates were often painted a dull green. Dark red, brown and blue have also found favour in the past.

1 Wash the gate thoroughly with hot water and sugar soap. Use a scrubbing brush or green scourer and make sure you remove all dirt and algae growth. Rinse with clean water.

2 Use a metal scraper to remove all blistered and flaking paint. Patches of rust should be removed with a steel brush, then cleaned to a bright finish with steel wool. Once all the loose paint flakings have been removed, feather the edges of the remaining sound paint with abrasive paper to avoid unsightly ‘steps’ on the finished paintwork.

3 To ensure a good, smooth finish, wipe over with a damp rag to remove all particles of old paint. Apply a proprietary rust remover on all areas of rust (follow the manufacturer’s directions). Some products may require a second application. Others need to be washed off prior to painting.

4 Make sure the gate is perfectly dry before you apply a coat of metal primer to all bare metal. Bare metal corrodes incredibly quickly so primer should be applied as soon as feasibly possible.

5 To prevent anyone lifting this type of gate off its hinges, unscrew the top drop hinge, turn it round 180 degrees so that the hinge pin slots down into the gate, and screw it to the post. If screws are corroded, spray them with release oil.

6 To remove build-up of rust on the drop hinge, soak in a bowl of paraffin for a few hours, then clean with steel wool. Paint can impede the ease of operation, so rub with oil instead. Keep it rust-free by giving it an occasional wipe with an oily rag. Fix to the post with screws.

7 When buying an old gate the hinges and catch plates are frequently missing. New parts can be made easily. Look in the Yellow Pages for Agricultural Engineer, Blacksmith or Forgemaster. Secure to the post using corrosion-resistant screws – and for added protection dip screws in grease before inserting.

8 Before applying the top coat, check that the new paint is compatible with the base coat. Two thin coats give a better finish than one thick one and will avoid unsightly ‘sag’. We chose Dark Green metal paint by Hammerite.

You will need: l Sugar soap l Scraper l Scrubbing brush l Steel brush l Steel wool l Wet and dry paper l Rust remover l Metal primer l Paint l Paintbrush l Penetrating oil spray l Bradawl l Screws l Screwdriver l Work gloves l Goggles

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REVITALISEORIGINAL RAILINGS

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T here are always plenty of jobs to be done in the garden, but from time to time it’s good to take a breather to savour the results of your hard work. What better place to pause and enjoy it from than a fragrant chamomile seat built in a favourite spot? Plus, it’s a good opportunity to practise your bricklaying skills. Before deciding where to build your seat, site a piece of plywood or cardboard of roughly the projected size in various places around the garden. Look at it at different times during the day to make sure you choose a sunny spot.

The size depends on your personal preference, but it’s best to avoid having to cut bricks to fit. This seat is about 48 inches long by 18 inches wide and 15 inches high. It has five courses of 10 bricks, so needs 50 bricks in total. Most builders’ merchants have a selection of new bricks and architectural salvage yards often have stocks of reclaimed ones to choose from.

For this garden adjoining a 17th-century farmhouse, we were able to find handcrafted, narrow bricks that harmonise perfectly with the walls of the ancient building.

1With string and pegs, mark out the position for the concrete base, allowing an extra 2 inches all the way round. Use a try square to ensure the corners are at right angles. With a spade, remove 3 inches of turf and use a spirit level to check the base is level. Use a 3-inch piece of timber and nails to make shuttering to form a mould for the concrete base.

2Tip out the cement onto a mixing board or concrete pad. Make a well in the middle, pour in some water and mix well. Shovel into the shuttering. Take a length of wood and tamp the concrete to ensure there are no bubbles. Cover with plastic and wait three or four days before laying bricks.

3Make a mortar for laying the bricks with one part lime putty to three parts builder’s sand. At first the mix will appear dry and stiff, but keep mixing and it will soon become soft.

4Use steel tape, string and a try square to mark out measurements of the seat. Using a trowel, lay a ¾-inch layer of mortar to bed the first course of bricks. Furrow the mortar to get a key. Build up the corners first, checking that the corners are true right angles, and position the

intervening bricks. Stack alternate headers (ends) and stretchers (sides) to form the corner.

5Incorporate drain pipes between the first and second course. We used two 8-inch sections of ½-inch diameter plastic pipe. Allow the pipes to protrude out about ½ inch. When the seat is finished and the mortar has set, cover the base with stones up to the first two courses.

6After laying each course, check vertical and horizontal levels with a spirit level. Realign bricks if necessary. Lay an even bed of mortar by taking the same amount on your trowel each time.

7The joints need to be pointed when the mortar isn’t too wet nor too dry. Start with the vertical joints. Use a piece of wetted dowelling to smooth the joints and set the mortar back a little. Any stray mortar can be cleaned off with a stiff brush once dry.

8A piece of permeable membrane or a bit of old carpet will keep the drainage material and soil separated. Now add a good quality, light topsoil. When choosing chamomile plants look for a non-flowering lawn variety to avoid encouraging bees.

You will need: l Steel tape l Spade l Spirit level l Trowel l Shuttering to mould concrete l Concrete l Builder’s sand and lime putty l 50 bricks l Two 8-inch weep pipes l 15 chamomile plants l Work gloves l Builder’s sand and lime putty for mortar

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BUILD A PLANTEDBRICK SEAT

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This south-facing garden with its mature, lush greenery is the ideal scene for a relaxing drink. But, although the setting is perfect, the cast-iron garden furniture is in need of some maintenance. Bought for a song at auction years ago and kept outdoors, the weather has caused some damage. The securing bolts are rusting, the paint is flaking, the metal is grimy and algae has started to spread.

As with most renovation jobs, the hard work comes at the beginning, so hours spent scraping, sanding and scrubbing on

a hot day is not recommended, making this the perfect time of year to reinvigorate your garden furniture.

For the top coat, always try to wait for the perfect day – dry, slightly overcast, although with no threat of rain, calm and warm. Garden furniture will invariably stay looking good for longer if you are able to store it in a shed over the winter months. However, if you are short of storage space, make sure the legs are not left to stand on wet grass and cover with plastic sheeting to offer some protection against the rain and snow.

1 Check the bolts holding the table and chairs together. Any rusted ones must be replaced. Choose a spanner to exactly match the size of the nut. If it fails to undo them, spray with release oil, such as WD-40, then wait and try again.

2 A tap with a hammer will help break the corrosion binding the nut and bolt together, but beware of doing this on cast iron, which is brittle and cracks easily. As a last resort, saw through stubborn nuts and bolts with a hacksaw. Replace with new, corrosion-resistant ones.

3 Wearing heavy-duty rubber gloves, and keeping well away from children and animals, use fungicidal wash, sterilising solution or household bleach on the furniture to kill off algae and spores. Apply by brush or sponge and leave for 24 hours before washing off with water.

4 Put a dust sheet or plastic sheeting under the furniture to make cleaning up easier. Wearing protective gloves, use a steel brush to remove flaking paint to make a sound substrate for a new coat of paint. A clean, sharp scraper is also effective.

5 Worn away paint exposes the metal to the elements and the aluminium alloy forms a powdery coating. Use a sanding block and wet and dry abrasive paper to work on the unstable surface until a firm base is reached. Wear a protective dust mask.

6 Thorough preparation is the key to a long-lasting finish. Scrub the furniture with hot water and detergent to remove traces of grease and dust. Rinse with lots of clean water. Mop up surplus water with a sponge and leave to dry completely before moving on to the next step.

7 A specific range of paints can be applied straight on to bare metal. The exception is if it is aluminium or an aluminium alloy, when a same-brand primer must be used. If using general-purpose paint, read the instructions and apply the relevant primer first.

8 Brush on a coat of paint and, once completely dry, give it a light sanding with fine glasspaper to provide a key for the next coat. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the best time to apply the second coat – some brands advise applying it within eight hours of the first.

You will need: l Work gloves l Dust sheet l Dust mask l Spanner l WD-40 l Hacksaw l Sterilising solution or bleach l Scraper or steel brush l Wet and dry abrasive paper l Sponge l Cloths l Glasspaper l Paintbrushes l Paint

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REVIVE METAL FURNITURE

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H erringbone paths are pleasing to the eye and easy to create. Not all bricks are frost-resistant so, before you buy, establish whether they are suitable for an outdoor project. If using reclaimed bricks, it helps if all the bricks are the same size. For speed and ease you can always choose new machine-made bricks, which are available in a variety of different materials and colours. Providing the path is used for walking on and will not be shared by cars, the bricks can be laid

on well-compacted rubble with a top dressing of sand. Measure out the path, working out the best layout to avoid having to cut bricks. The edges need to be haunched with concrete to retain the bricks and the sub-base. Construct the edges first and allow concrete to cure and harden for several days before starting the path. Once finished, fill the joints with kiln-dried silver sand, which will offer a degree of porosity: rain will be able to run between the bricks.

1 Excavate five inches of soil, plus the depth of the bricks. Remove more soil at the edges to allow for mortaring in a row of bricks as a foundation. Bed the edging stones in mortar; on the outside of the path haunch with concrete. Once concrete is firm, rake smooth; check with a spirit level.

2 Take a sledgehammer and tamp down hard to compress the surface. Now spread three inches of clean hardcore or crushed stone to form a sound sub-base. Tamp all over again until firm and compacted. Check the base is flat with a spirit level.

3 Spread a sheet of permeable membrane over the base to allow rain to percolate through but prevent weeds pushing up between the bricks. It also acts as a barrier to keep the bedding sand separate from the earth and hardcore beneath. A piece of old carpet will also do the job.

4 Using a rake, spread about two inches of sharp sand on to the membrane. Use a spirit level to ensure the area where you will start is level. If in future you wish to redesign the garden, bricks laid in sand rather than mortar can be reused easily.

5 Check the first few bricks are level by laying a length of wood across – this is the guide to ensure no bricks protrude or sit lower than the others. Use this guide to check the path is level at the completion of each row. Put the spirit level on the top and move wood in all directions to check the path is level as you go.

6 Use another shorter, lighter piece of wood as a straight edge to check the diagonals are in line. A lump hammer will correct bricks out of alignment and is useful for tapping bricks up close against each other.

7 After laying roughly a metre check all the levels – it is easy for the path to become askew. The advantage of laying on sand rather than bedding the bricks in mortar means errors can be put right easily. If the path must be used before it is finished, put down walk-boards so the partly laid path won’t be disturbed.

8 Once the body of the path is completed, wedge offcuts of bricks or wood in the gaps to prevent movement. Large gaps can be filled with cut bricks, and smaller gaps with mortar. Sweep over silver sand to grout.

You will need: l Bricks, edging stones, mortar and concrete (for building edges) l Rake l Sledgehammer or heavy piece of wood for compressing sub-base l Spirit level l Trowel l Broom l Rubble or clean crushed stone l Permeable membrane or old carpet l Sharp sand for bedding l Silver sand for grouting

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BUILD AHERRINGBONE PATHWAY

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