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© Style Makeover HQ Pilot Online Style Makeover Program 1
WEEK 2: Master Basic Dressing Illusions (Part 2) You have started becoming familiar with the silhouettes, lengths and other style elements
that work for your proportions. And have started assessing individual items currently in your
wardrobe.
Then last week you started creating outfits using one or more of the Hide and Highlight
principles.
This week you’re going to continue assessing individual clothing and accessories and putting
outfits together, but you’ll also be considering the third of the 3 Hs: Harmonizing.
Harmonize
Your MPS style recommendations include ALL the style elements that help
you create flattering proportions.
However, if you remember nothing else remember to review your outfits
using the 3Hs: Hide, Highlight, Harmonize.
These principles should also help you understand how to disregard an
‘avoid’ style recommendation (if you want to), yet still create a flattering
outfit!
This week we’ll explore harmonizing.
HARMONIZE: Relate your outfits to yourself When you relate your clothes and accessories to something about your appearance and
when your outfit forms a cohesive whole your look becomes pleasing (to you and anyone
who sees you).
You can relate your clothes and accessories to yourself by:
Colour – by echoing something about your colouring. Here are a few examples you
can use now, even if you haven’t had a colour analysis:
o Wearing a top that is a similar colour to your eyes enhances the colour of
your eyes
Week 2: Master Basic Dressing Illusions
© Style Makeover HQ Pilot Online Style Makeover Program 2
Examples of eye enhancer tops
o Wearing a top, dress or outer layer that includes a colour similar to your hair
colouring. Though be careful this doesn’t make you look too boring! You may
need to add contrast, or texture, in your portrait area (see the image 3rd from
left, below). Or add one or more other colours, or wear your hair colour away
from your portrait area (see the example in my outfit 2nd image from left
below)
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© Style Makeover HQ Pilot Online Style Makeover Program 3
Linking outfit to hair colour
Shape – if you have curly, or wavy, hair wearing a pattern with curves, or a texture
that evokes curves, reflects your curls within your clothing. If you have smooth hair
smooth fabrics and straight lines will reflect the lines of your hair. If you have a
pointed chin a V-neck will reflect that line, pointed shoes will reflect an aspect of
your face at your feet
Texture – echo your hair texture (smooth, slightly textured, highly textured), or skin
texture (clear or more muted) (though be careful with this – you need to understand
that what we echo we emphasise!)
Make sure you only echo things you want to emphasise about your look! For example, if you
don’t like your square jawline avoid that shape within your clothes (especially at your
neckline).
As well as relating your appearance to your outfits you can create harmony within your
outfits by linking items somehow, for example:
A similar theme or mood – for example, a summer beach theme (light colours,
deckchair stripes, espadrille sandals and so on), an Aztec theme, a natural theme, a
polished mood, a playful mood. Do take care that you don’t get too ‘costume-y’ with
a theme or mood.
Visual weight – this is the perceived weight of clothing or accessories. The larger,
darker, more opaque, less structured, more textured, more embellished an item is
the heavier the perceived visual weight. Visual weight is particularly useful when
working out what shoes and other accessories work with an outfit. And for creating
Week 2: Master Basic Dressing Illusions
© Style Makeover HQ Pilot Online Style Makeover Program 4
balance in your proportions, for instance balancing a relatively narrow top half to
broader hips by wearing patterns, lighter colours and/or textures on your top half.
You can also play with these ideas:
The ideas below, are an introduction to more advanced aspects that you’d
learn more about in a colour analysis and colour course. So, if you’re at all
confused by these please ignore them for this course!
Colour values – echo the colour value of your hair (and perhaps your eyes, but be
wary of going too low contrast by echoing skin colour). For example, if you have:
o Darkish hair, some element of dark colour in your outfit will work well
o If you have light-ish hair some lighter colours within an outfit will work well
for you
o If your hair colour is more medium (neither light nor dark) in value try using
some medium colours in your outfit
Colour contrasts – echoing the contrast levels from your portrait area is also an
enhancing thing to do. Contrast levels can be:
o Low – almost no difference between colours. For example between two
similar colour values in a similar tone
o Medium – you can easily see there’s a difference between colours, but it’s
not really high impact. For example: a light colour and a medium colour; or a
medium colour and a dark colour
o High – an obvious difference between colours. A light colour and a dark
colour form a high contrast, eg black and white. Two bright colours also
create a high contrast
Try echoing the contrast level within your portrait area (especially between hair and
skin) in your outfits and also within the colours in your outfit (the change between
tops and bottoms, and within patterns).
Again, please ignore the above three colour ideas if you’re finding them
too much to take in at this point!
Proportions within an outfit Leonardo da Vinci discovered a number sequence called the Fibonacci sequence (also
referred to as the Golden Mean). It can be used to describe the proportions we find most
pleasing in nature (such as fern fronds, snail shells, and roses), in art (such as object
placement in a picture), in architecture (such as the Taj Mahal and pyramids), and in aspects
of our body proportions.
The proportions are: 1:2, 2:3, 3:5 etc.
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Given we find these proportions so pleasing it’s no surprise that we find dressing using these
proportions creates the best balance.
How to use this?
Create outfits with garments that are uneven in proportion to each other, rather than even
lengths or widths.
Colour influences the appearance of proportion. For example, the colour of
hosiery can be blended with the hemline and shoes to make the three
items appear as one. In the picture below my pants, skin and sandals form
the illusion of one unit.
Example of 1:1 versus 1:2 and volume all over versus structure plus wide
Not wide over wide – since this makes us look wide all over (see me in the first photo
above). Volume over volume is a current fashion trend (on the runways), but unless you’re
tall and very slim it’s not a flattering look.
However, one way to make it work is to create the illusion of a more tailored top or bottom.
For example: add a more structured vest over the fuller garments; add a belt; or use tucking
or partial tucking to create the illusion of structure (see this article on my website to see
how to master the partial tuck).
Rule of Threes – to give an outfit a finished appearance three areas of interest are needed.
In the picture above right, the addition of the textured necklace relates to the colour of the
pants and combines with the curved lines and the light colour of the top to create three
areas of interest.
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When an outfit feels ‘blah’ it’s often missing the third element. For example, two solid
coloured items usually need a third item to make an outfit feel visually interesting. Adding a
necklace, scarf or third layer, such as a jacket, cardigan or vest, will often add the needed
visual interest.
Scale In the image to the left, which centre dot is
smaller?
Answer: they’re both the same size! However, the
small dots make the centre circle look bigger,
while the large dots make it look smaller.
This is the illusion of scale!
How to use this?
If you want to make an area of your body look smaller, put a larger scale accessory or piece
of clothing, or design element, next to it. If you want it to look bigger, put on a smaller scale
accessory. However, to keep your look harmonious, don’t stray too far from your scale
recommendations.
How to use this?
Pay attention to the scale of design elements such as silhouettes, collars and patterns and of
accessories such as earrings, necklaces and handbags.
Skinny legs will look even skinnier with a wide hemline
The scale of this bag overwhelms Katie Holmes
Please note: you don’t have to use every harmonising aspect in every
outfit! Pick one or two to focus on, especially as you get started with this.
The point is that you start to consciously notice what’s working and what’s
not within your outfits. You’ll probably find you start noticing this in others
and in photos too!
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EXAMPLE of using the above information
The most obvious harmonising strategies I’m using here are:
The colour of the top echoes my hair colour. However, the top colour is slightly brighter, which both attracts attention high on my body and keeps the look from becoming boring
Colour value of top is similar to my hair colour Colour contrast between my portrait area and the
top is medium Colour contrast between top and darker bottoms is
medium There is a similar colour in the print pattern (though
you may not notice that from this photo) The pattern of the pants echoes the swirls and curls
of my hair My sandals are a similar tone to my hair and top,
creating a balanced look The proportions between my top half and bottom
half are uneven, even when you take my hair into account. The look is too boring (even between top half and bottom half
HOMEWORK 1: Reassess outfits
Step 1: Look at your outfits from last week Have another look at the outfits from last week’s homework and using the information
above, look at each outfit photo and assess them for:
Colour and contrast harmonies
Shape harmonies between you and the outfit
Notice the fabric textures
Proportions, both vertically and horizontally
The scale of design elements and patterns
Theme/mood/’pulled-togetherness’ of outfits
And do make sure you’ve first used your MPS to review the individual components of the
outfit. Do they meet your style recommendations? And if not, have you been able to use
ideas from the 3Hs and dressing illusions to create a flattering look anyway?
Step 2: Identify any changes If an outfit feels as if it’s missing something can you identify what’s wrong?
Is the outfit flattering? As well as creating the right balance for your horizontal and vertical
shapes and minimising any figure challenges, does it harmonise in any way with one or more
aspects of you? If not can you identify any ways to change it?
For example, could you change a hemline? Or tuck in a top? Or add an accessory to create
more interest? Or change the top or bottoms to create a more harmonious contrast level?
Week 2: Master Basic Dressing Illusions
© Style Makeover HQ Pilot Online Style Makeover Program 8
Step 3: Post photos Post photos in our Facebook group along with comments about your assessment. Also note
whether you actually love (or at least like) the outfit.
HOMEWORK 2: Create new outfits Now it’s time to practise creating new outfits using your style rules and the 3Hs. For this
homework make sure you incorporate at least one harmonising aspect from above.
Step 1: Identify the area(s) of your body that you need to balance For example:
Narrow hips to wide shoulders, wide shoulders to wide hips, short legs to the rest of
your body, long legs to the rest of your body
Flow through the waist
etc
Step 2: Choose an appropriate basic outfit strategy for your proportions Select from 1 of the 4 ways of using colour from last week and create an outfit using items
in your wardrobe.
Step 3: Shop your wardrobe Try combining tops and bottoms, dresses and outer layers etc that you haven’t put together
before.
Step 4: Add a focal point Add one or two focal points. For example: using a necklace or scarf; a colour or a texture
Step 5: Harmonise Make sure you’ve included at least one of the aspects of harmony above between you and
your outfit. Pay particular attention to contrast.
Step 6: Note any missing items If you find you’re missing the ingredients you need to create the outfit you have in mind,
start a shopping wish list and make a note of the items you’re missing.
Step 7: Post photos Post at least one photo of you in one of your new outfits in our Facebook Group. Let us
know how you like the outfits you post and any discoveries you’ve made as you’ve done the
homework this week. In particular, note anything different, to do with harmonising, you’ve
tried in this outfit.