Walking Pindos 2012

8/3/2019 Walking Pindos 2012

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Areopoli

23062

Lakonia

Greece

Tel: +30 27330 52611

Mob: +30 6937 772 996

email: [email protected]

Peaks of the Pindos and Jewels of Ioannina: 9-19 June 2012

The Pindos mountains in Epirus are

more reminiscent of Switzerland

than the Mediterranean. Towering

peaks, alpine meadows carpeted in

flowers, mountain lakes, wooded

valleys and gushing turquoise riversmake for one of the most

spectacular walks in Greece. This

region is one of Europes last great

wilderness areas, and is home to

wild boar, wolves and even brown

bears, as well as some rare birds and

an abundance of butterflies and

flowers.

This is a challenging trek which

leads us along ancient stone mule

paths, across arched bridges

spanning deep river gorges and up

to the spectacular snow-capped

peaks of Gamila. We sleep in the

traditional stone guest-houses of the

Zagorohoria, where we will enjoy

delicious home-cooking (superb

meat dishes and a surprising variety

of fruit and vegetables, considering

the remoteness of these villages)

and some interesting local wines.

We then move down to the fascinating lakeside town of Ioannina, which still retains a distinct Turkish

feel (it only became independent in 1913), where we have free time to visit the mosques and byzantine

museums, take a boat trip out to the island, and shop for exquisite metalwork and jewellery. There is

also an optional excursion to Dodoni, site of the oracle of Zeus.

Day 1There is a lunchtime flight to Ioannina from Athens with Aegean Airlines. This would mean you

could connect from an early morning flight from London. From there we have a one hour transfer to

our charming guest house in Monodendri, on the edge of a beautiful village in the wooded foothills ofthe Gamila massif.


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Day 2After visiting a spectacularly

situated monastery overlooking the

Vikos gorge, we take a mule path

down into the rocky riverbed, and

follow it upstream below soaring

rock faces and pinnacles to the

picturesque village of Kipi. Here

we stay in traditional village rooms,

and there is an opportunity to visit

the fascinating folk museum before

dinner in the village taverna. (6

miles)

Day 3Following a track through woods with occasional extensive views south, we continue on through the

foothills to Tsepelovo. The largest of the Zagorohoria villages, this marks the start of the Vlach-

populated highlands. There is time to soak up the tranquillity of mountain village life beneath the

central plane tree or explore the winding cobbled streets before dinner. (6 miles)

Day 4We head off early for a long and demanding hike into the heart of the Gamila range, carrying our own

lunch and the bare essentials for our night in the refuge. Almost immediately leaving the tree line and

we walk on into vast deserted mountain uplands, punctuated with deep gullies, flowery alpine

meadows and the occasional shepherds hut. Arriving finally on a spectacular saddle at 2,100 m, wefind the simple refuge of Astrakas, where we spend the night in small dormitories with bunk beds.

There is no hot water, but the bathrooms are spotless and there are plenty of blankets. Our tour

manager will carry up our sheet sleeping bags and a change of clothes for the evening. (11 miles)

Day 5There is an optional mornings walk

over grassy hillsides to Dragon Lake, a

small glacial lake perched on the lip of

the Aoos Gorge, teeming with newts

and unusual butterflies. Returning tothe refuge for our picnic, we then

descend to Mikro Papingo, a

picturesque village of stone houses and

cobbled lanes, set beneath the soaring

towers of Astrakas. (6 + 6 miles)


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Day 6Free day to enjoy a well-earned rest on the terrace of what is usually the favourite hotel of the trip,

explore the charming villages of both Megalo and Mikro Papingo, or take a refreshing swim in the

series of rock pools which range in temperature from icy snow melt in the shade of the gorge to balmy

warm in the sun.

Day 7Today we walk down through

flowery meadows, forests of giant

shrubs and past fairy tale rock

pinnacles down to the springs of the

Voidomatis river in the lower Vikos

gorge. A steep and winding path

leads us up to Vitsiko, with

spectacular views back up thecanyon where we enjoy a well-

earned lunch under the village plane

tree next to the church. From there

a lane contours the hillsides to

Aristi, where we spend the night in

another charming guest house. (8

miles)

Day 8A small (and very overgrown!)

wooded path brings us back to the

river Voidomatis, where we will

visit a beautiful C15th monastery

built into the cliffs, and walk a

short way upstream to get views

back to Papingo and perhaps see

some rare orchids, before lunch by

an idyllic turquoise river pool. We

then follow the river downstream

among giant plane trees. The

braver walkers can cool off inthe freezing waters en route.

Emerging from the valley at an

arched stone bridge, we then travel

by van back to Aristi for our final

night in the tranquillity of the

mountains. (7 miles)


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Day 9After a short drive north towards

Konitsa, our last days walk takes us

up the Aoos gorge to the monastery

of Stomiou, with its lone caretaker

monk. Situated on a forested bluff

overlooking the bright blue ribbon

of the river Aoos, and dwarfed by

the serrated peaks of Gamila, the

monastery occupies an awe-

inspiring position. The return walk

follows a different track, with

opportunities for bathing in the

relatively warm waters of the Aoos.

(10 miles) At the end of the day we

then transfer by van to Ioannina,

where we stay in a restored mansionwithin the walled medina of the old city. Tonight we will try a typical fish dinner on the lakeside.

Day 10An optional early morning excursion to the little-visited Dodoni, site of the oracle of Zeus and with an

ancient theatre. The rest of the day is free to explore this fascinating town, seat of the infamous Ali

Pasha. The citadel, mosques, museums and synagogue are all within 5 minutes walk of our hotel. Or

take a boat to the tranquil island of Nissi with its frescoed monasteries. Our last dinner will be in a

charming courtyard in the old town, where we will sample Greek haute cuisine and fine wines.

Day 11Ioannina is famous for its metalwork and jewellery, so your last morning is free for shopping in the

bazaar and many fascinating shops. Transfer to Ioannina airport in time for the lunchtime flight to

Athens with Aegean Airline.


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General informationIn June the weather should be fine and warm (Ioannina will be hot), with an abundance of wild

flowers - some quite rare, and for the brave there are several occasions to swim. However, being

mountainous - there is often still snow on the peaks of the Gamila mountain range - you will need

warm clothes for the night in the refuge! It is important to be fit for this trip: although only 1 day is

really long, the route is steep and demanding, and in a couple of places it is vertiginous (NOT

dangerous). The terrain is very rocky, so boots are essential, and some of the paths can be quite

overgrown with prickly undergrowth, so it is a good idea to have trousers to slip on over shorts if

necessary. In the alpine pastures where there are animals, there can be a lot of insects, so I would

advise bringing a spray repellent. A medium sized day pack is essential for carrying PLENTY (at

least 1 litre, and on some days, 2) of water and on a couple of occasions, a packed lunch, plus layers -

i.e. jumper and waterproof. We eat in a mixture of local tavernas and the hotels themselves, none of

which are formal.

AccommodationThe accommodation on this trip is consistently good: small mountain hotels generally with a

restaurant attached. They are all traditional, comfortable and extremely welcoming.

Food and wineWe try to encourage grannys home cooking, which will hopefully dispel the myth that Greek food

is inferior in quality. There are some tantalising specialities from this area, such as cornbread and

smoked cheese, and substantial stews. In Ioannina we will have fish, and maybe the local speciality:

frogs legs! We will also try out some interesting Greek wines, some of which are good enough - I

think - to bring home! Picnics include healthy salads, local meats and cheeses, fruit and local wine.

InsurancePlease ensure that you have comprehensive insurance for every eventuality.

Visas etc

A valid passport is required. No visas, inoculations or vaccinations are required by citizens of the UKand Ireland for travel to Greece. It is advisable, however, to check with your doctor before departure.

If you do not hold a UK passport, you must inform me of this fact when booking and contact the

Greek embassy to see whether this is required in your case. It is your responsibility to ensure that you

have the correct and current visa documentation.

CostMoney-wise, everything is included: i.e. all your meals are paid for from dinner on day 1 until

breakfast on day 10 (except for lunch on days 6 and 10 when I will not be with you), as well as wine

with dinner. However, any extra pre-dinner drinks, ice-creams, coffees etc. are not. Greeks tend not

to have coffee/tea after dinner - in fact you cannot usually get these in a taverna - so these are not

included either. Entrance to Dodoni, churches etc. whenever you are with ME are all covered, except

on your free day in Ioannina, where everyones interests may vary.

Price of trip: 1,975 (unavoidable single supplement of 190).

This trip runs with a minimum of 6 and a maximum of 12 people.

You will be able to book this trip through Sunvil, who is my agent in the UK - they ensure full AITO

bonding and liability insurance and take credit cards.

Recommended Reading

Eleni - Nicholas Gage

Roumeli - Patrick Leigh Fermor

The Unwritten Places - Tim Salmon

Zagorohoria (Explorer guide)

Documents

Walking Pindos 2012