1
c I A v iGt 1 i u- i t L L A A w4 l jI 1 ii A Y I elJ W t1 t i r r l- pf t l1J I O 1 pt i t eJ J- CrA G j rf b 11 I tOc LDJ cc zcTTY r 4 O O op 0 0 I LATE SPPR PARIS FASHIeNSI- D 1 SEAseN SrVl1ES HI VOGtIE arc just at that rather dull WE midseason period in fash ¬ ions when the summer is almost but not quite at an end and the fall is almost but not quite beginning Yet Paris is never Without ideas even in the eddy of seasons and several new gowns have been shown in the Bois that have attracted well merited attention At this season too in one begins to gather from the generai gossip what the fall promises Ex- treme ¬ styles of the kind m which and summer were fertile have passed out of vogue The fall shows a return to the heavily draped and rather full although dosefitting models of twenty to twentyfive years ago The black lace cape I show here is really a modem adaptation of the oldfashioned cir ¬ cular for instance How far we are to proceed along these lines I do not know the chances arc that after Red fern and Paquin have finished with their new models only those most gifted with imagination could trace the inspiration Some of the gowns which I spoke of above I am showing you here They all t of them are of the midseason variety- and can be worn up to the middle of September without discomfort Transparent Black Wraps the Homonta Tad Paris women have taken up the transparent black wrap with unusual en- thusiasm ¬ vcn for Paris These wraps are of black net lace and chiffon and arc often elaborately embroidered with jet beads This graceful black chiffon cape falls from a shirred shoulder yoke of black velvet and over the chiffon falls a netting of silver threads weighted- by velvet rosettes The cape is tre- mendously ¬ full at the bottom where it is weighted by an insertion of heavy Yak lace pale Blue Gown with Turquolio Embroidery The delicacy of this lovely costume- can scarcely be realized from the illus ¬ tration which does not produce the col ¬ oring Over trailing slip of paleblue crepe de chine falls a tunic of white lace and this lace tunic is weighted down by the girdle of pearls and tur ¬ quoisecolored beads which hangs at one side A piece of this blue nnd pearl embroidery hangs over the bodice of lace and the sleeves are of blue chiffon and lace Bleevelew Goats Smart If Not Warn Though the guy little sleeveless wraps of lace are not the least protec- tion ¬ they are very charming over white summer frocks for afternoon wear This lace coat is really made of four long panels bound nt the edges with silk to match the frock it accompanies nnd caught together only under the arms where the silk belt crosses Motifs of heavy Irish crochet set into the stole ends give added richness to the coat There arc no sleeves the armholes be ing edged with silk bands but the sleeves of the frock beneath arc made- of the same lace with tucked chiffon cuffs Xvender Linen with Embossed Trimming The embroidery which trims this simple yet pretty dress is dyed in the lavender shade of the linen Both coat and dress arc trimmed with this em- broidcn ¬ and also with the soutache- braiding followed with lines of heavy stitching which produces a raised or embossed effect on the linen Around- the decolletage is a line of violet velvet and the violet note is repeated in velvet on the hat which is of leghorn trimmed f with wistaria The gloves arc the dainty Niagara embroidered sort with lavender embroideries on a selftone ground FOR THE GIRL WHO WANTS I TO EARN Possibilities of the WONDER if the girl who wants I to make money has ever thought- of using the social and club sea- son ¬ as a means of making extra money Just now in big cities or in smaller you hear much of card clubs literary clubs dancing parties afternoon teasthe whirl of the season is well be bun Let us study its possibilities where the girl with a is concerned Every social and every club entertain- ment ¬ must have its touch of hospitality- in the way of refreshments Every hos- tess ¬ and every committee reach this point where they would be glad to have certain details taken off their minds and hands Think of the opportunity this gives you in no matter what line your talent lies How to Go About It Suppose you live in a big oldfaih ioned house the kind with center fall and long double parlors or with one big why do you not go right into the entertainment business Rent your parlors to hostesses and clubs Clear the rooms of superfluous furniture- and tint the walls a soft tint against which pretty gowns will be in color harmony You can the walls yourself to save expense but remember- that certain strong colors will spoil th- eO effect of certain other will want to change the colors of your floral decorations to suit seasons and occa ¬ sions and that is another reason wh yOU must not have a background- Buy or rent folding cardtables and chairs If ingenious you can manu- facture cardtables with board for the tops and broomhandles for legs Cover the tops with muslin or felt Invest a of your capital in pretty inexpensive china if your own china closet will not supply enough and do not forget the glasses These arc always in demand and you can doubtless rent them many times over You can get very pretty plated forks and spoons in artistic patterns Little by little you can add the napery embroidering it with your monogram or your favorite flower or if ou give your parlors a name with the initial of that Special parlors with the tables chairs and service for entertaining have become a need where space is scarce u TRANSPARENT BLACK WRAP- The Frenchwoman Marco a Muff The possibilities of coquetry in a muff arc fully appreciated by the Parisicnne who dearly loves to pose with a huge fluffy muff in her hands and has her summer muffs of chiffon and lace as well as the warmer sorts for practical winter use This frock of pale mauve cachmcrc dc sole is matched bya huge muff of the material trimmed with lace frills and silk cord Late summer always brings the prob- lem ¬ of the unlined gown To any but the most slender figure a fitted lining is essential to shapeliness et we hesi ¬ tate to put a permanent lining into a gown that is to be laundered The scamfitted corsetcover either alone or in one of the sheath combinations solves the question so far as the waist is con- cerned ¬ Its use avoids the necessity for bust supporters and the several cor ¬ setaccessories of this kind that mean ¬ ing additional clothing arc none too welcome in very warm weather The plain corsetcover may be relieved from absolute severity by the judicious- use of trimming which should never be elaborate however The disclosure through a sheer waist of an over trimmed corsetcover and large corset bow of colored ribbon that had a certain vogue last summer is in questionable tasteto criticse it even mildly A Social Season f and are welcomed by the hostess to whom entertaining means a deal of work worry and a readjustment of the domestic machinery Renting Rooms Large parlors with little furniture are- a pretty good asset for any girl to have There arc many times when she can rent themto the kindergarten teacher for rehearsals for readings recitals and demonstrations of women lecturers Mothers would rather have their sons and daughters attend dances given in the parlor of a house than in a public hall Big storerooms and attics may be rented for the storage of furniture I know one oung woman who conducts a stor age house hiring the teams and taking care of a big business As bookkccpci in a storage house she was given much more than her share of work by the lazy manager She did not complain but spent her time learning the work and making friends of the teamsters and patrons and saving her money The next thin she did was to establish her own busi- ness and rhe is succeeding welL One girl owning a fine roomy brick barn lined with felt for winter put in a big stove cleaned and decorates it called it The Barn end rented i very successfully for social affairs ant entertainments In the summer sh rented it to an artist and his wife Tw other girls of my acquaintances ren their old barn to neighbors for storin their autos Big houses and big barn can be turned to account in many ways Decorating- But there arc many more lines of worl for you if you decide to try the enter- tainment bureau There arc the decora- tions You can plan these and mak the artificial ones including the candl and lamp shades You can gradually ac cumulate palms ferns and rubber plant and baskets of trailing vines which yoi can rent to others ust as time flori does To keep the goodwill of the flor- ist if there is one you could tell hir frankly your plans and ask him to aHo- you to work with him he furnishinl- the plants and flowers and you arrang- ing Study artistic mud suitabl wM i i1IiW i II LAVENDER LINEN simple embroidery design with a but ¬ tonholed edge or a frill of narrow lace is quite enough decorations and discuss them with your patron but always keep back some little detail as a surprise If there is a guest- of honor decorations in the lattcrs favorite color arc a delicate compliment- I will not go into detail about all the favors scorecards and odds and ends which make an affair unique Should- you hit upon a happy for score cards you night work your way into furnishing them to stationers Vhcn I stand over a case of unattractive favor cards in a shop I sometimes think What a more girls with real talent and originality do not try their hands at these If you went about to your friends in your own town and towns near you and offered to supply the favors I or decorations or to suggest them do you not believe that your offer would be hailed with delight Catering If you have any knack at all at pre- paring ¬ dainties the catering for parties- will appeal to you First there arc the dainty bonbons matching the decorations in colora wide lirld for experiment with fruit and vegetable flavorings and colorings Dig up grandmothers old cookbooks and try her recipes for mak ¬ ing ambrosia nectar and all the old delicacies Sec how many new things you can evolve There is a host of candied fruits and flowers that hostesses love to serve in cut glass or fine china compotes for afternoon ten Each hos tcs > 2 strives for something new in the way of little cakes tarts or biscuits i Set out for example to coat different kinds of fruits cakes and crackers with t chocolate or colored icings and you will be surprised at the delights you can manufacture t Originate cakes candies and salads Plan little menus which can be carried s out with little expense After all your own garden and pantry hold the mate- rials ¬ necessary to sake good foods I cannot make things good enough for parties you say Find a good caterer and engage her services then remember- ing ¬ to always give work to others you cannot do yourself The fame of one who can decorated cakes and salads goes abroad I know a wom- an ¬ in a Southern city who ornaments 9 cakes with flowers of icing and was urged by ladies who visited her liked her cakes to establish t thisho p in a Northern city v The field In SI There is a chance for a real artist in- c decorating dishes and studying the color I II PALE BLUE WITH TURQUOISE TRIMMING UlIIIC Trimmed Underwear Though almost every woman likes daintily trimmed underwear she should form and harmony of fruits and salads Luncheons wedding breakfasts and teas give the caterer and decorator the best chance As society reporter I heard many ladies including the wife of n former president of the United States lamenting that more young women with artistic sense did not enter this field plan menus and decorations for the hostess see that the tables and parlors- were properly arranged and everything- in m the kitchen In connection with her entertainment bureau the ambitious girl must not neglect to study forms of social eti- quette ¬ to advise puzzled hostesses to know the correct wording of invitations and the little points that many hostesses dread Here too comes in the work of making out lists and addressing invi- tations ¬ and delivering them impress a small boy in neat clothes into service- for this ideas for announcements of various sorts getting up programs sell- ing ¬ advertising space on programsallt- hese can be taken in charge Winter rind Summer 77orh The willing girl will find a large field in selecting prizes for card clubs and contests or games She can haunt the home shops and send for catalogues from dealers in other towns Cotillion favors should bring fame and money to the clever girl I knew a little German woman a street seller of artificial flow ¬ ers who was grabbed up by a co ¬ tillion club of generous youn people and kept busy and happy making won- derful ¬ things of tissuepaper boas muffs wands hats garlands flowers When summer rolls around you can move your entertainment scenery outof doors Arrange your lawn and your porch for partygiving You will need fresh white covers for your tables and chair backs to protect dainty gowns lanterns big jardinieres rugs or canvas if tables are set upon the lawn There are man little details which the ob- servant ¬ hostess does not neglect You have a good chance to help your boy- friends Interest them in forming a string orchestra or mandolin guitar cliibj and engage them to play for your parties Here too you have a chance- to help a girl friend who is musical hy engaging her to play One young woman a with two sons culti- vated ¬ her talent for plavinc good dance music and hind her musicallyinclined- son taught to play the drum and the two arc kept busy with engagements Do Bntlneis In Business rashlon In all your dealings remember to go THE SUMMER MUFF select her plainest corsetcovers to wear under a transparent waist Better still then wearing the dress directly over the over each step carefully with your pa ¬ tron leaking sure that you each under ¬ stand alike The wisest way is draw- up a written memorandum in duplicate- and submit it to her before you go ahead You will have to use tact in doing this Many women dismiss business matters with a shrug but are quick to take offense over discussions of prices and payments Strike all your bargains first i have the money question so clear1 un- derstood ¬ that can be no feelings- It takes courage to have money deal ¬ ings with friends but you must make up your mind to keep your lead clear smile and be pleasant about it and know absolutely that you arc in the right Be- ware ¬ of the friend who says Oh dont bother me with price i just go ahead and do the best you can and I know it will be all right Nine times out of ten she is the one to complain and feel that she is being cheated no matter what price is charged her A HOMEMADE DOLL- A doll which will prove serviceable and attractive to nearly all little tots may- be easily and cheaply made Buy a sofa pillow top on which 11 printed the face of a pretty girl Round the corners until time face is in the cen tre of a circular piece about twelve inches in diameter Run a stout thread around the edge draw together and stuff with bits of paper or shreds of cloth This is to be the head From stout unbleached muslin cut all in one piece the body arms and legs Stitch around edges cutting an opening down centre of back Turn inside out and stuff with sawdust Close opening care- fully ¬ and sew on time head Dress in a little Red Riding Hood outfit and the result is a doll that will be a joy forever- to the little heart whose property she becomes A little girl who has dolls of all de- scriptions ¬ from a big French doll that talks down to one made as described above and christened Baggy loves Rags better than all the others and once when a thoughtless auntie made some disrespectful remarks about her- r l mothers heart was almost broken Surely many little girls not so well favored as the one just men ¬ tioned whose parents have to spend their money to uv and other ne- cessities ¬ instead of dolls would appre- ciate ¬ a doll like this Many a life can be made happy for years by one of these inexpensive but beloved toy THE SMART SLEEVELESS COAT corsetcover and a white cambric skirt- is to have a fitted slip made for this purpose It takes the place of a lining and certainly makes one seem much more properly dressed If made of suitable material it may re ¬ place the corsetcover and long petti ¬ coat Under a gown of transparent fabric a slip of this sort is practically a necessity It assures the same shade and color under both waist and skirt and by its smoothlyfitting lines adds immensely to the good effect of the cos ¬ tume It also does away with that bug¬ bear of the summertimethc gaping waistline Still another advantage is that by supplying slips of different colors and using corresponding ribbons at girdle neck and hair a very pleasing variety may be given to one gown The slip may be of silk but it is by no means necessary that it should be Lawn any good mercerized lining fabric or satire may be used The latter is especially adapted for this purpose as it wears and looks well A good cotton material is infinitely to be preferred to a cheap silk The Princess Slip Perhaps as satisfactory a way as any- to prepare for the summers dressing is to have several of these princess HOW TO MAKE GOOD HASH I A Despised Economical Nourishing many palates the taste of To hash is wholly unknown because though such a com ¬ dish few cooks under- stand the art of making it and do not appreciate that the ordinary mixture of meats and vegetables masquerading as hash is but a travesty upon the well made article If the directions given in the follow- ing ¬ recipes for the kinds of hash be strictly observed the result in each instance will be a most satisfactory revelation to time housewife whose make- shift ¬ of a dish called for want of an ¬ other name hash has only met with scant welcome o the family table CornedBeef Hash This is perhaps the most usual and- at the same time one of the most savory Kinds of hash To make it allow one put of cold boiled potato cut into small cubes to two parts of cold cornedbeef chopped fine mix well and season to taste with salt and pepper Put a large tablespoonful of butter in a fryingpan when melted turn the meat and potato mixture into it and add enough boiling water to moisten thoroughly Cover closely and set on a hot part of the range for five being careful not to let it scorch When a crust is formed- on the bottom turn and brown the upper side then to a hot platter and send to the table at once CornedBoe Hash with Caeaso Prepare the meat and potatoes as in recipes then put into a but- tered ¬ bakingpan molding with the hands into the form of an omelet Dredge with breadcrumbs dot with bits of butter and bake a lifjhtbrown in- a hot oven Just before from time oxen cut four ounces of American cheese into small pieces and stir over the fire in two tablespoonfuls of sweet milk until melted an egg light add one tablespoonful of milk mix well add to the cheese season with cayenne and stir a few minutes Turn time hash out on a hot platter pour the cheese mixture over it with parsley and send to the table at once Beefsteak th I Cut the lean portions of leftover steak made of wellshrunk nainsook or long cloth Jf detachable flounces are pro- vided the arrangement will be perfect The flounces may range in degrees oi fineness and elaboration from lawn crossbarred dimity figured or dotted Swiss to handsome embroidery or lace trimmed organdy and French lawn There will be better protection to the flounce if the slip is allowed to extend m full length underneath it Gather the top of the flounce into a narrow band Work in it buttonholes about two and onehalf inches apart and sew buttons on the skirt at correct for the flounce A band of em- broidery ¬ or ribbonrun beading stitched to the buttonholed band at the upper edge only will conceal the buttonholes Using tho SUp With i roPleco Costuno It is not only under a princess dress that the princess slip will be appreciated The avoidance of extra belt thickness- and adjustment is quite as much to be desired under a skirtandvaist ccs s tume A misses costume shown in time shops is not a model that requires a- Iming in the making but when devel- oped in the lawn batiste Swiss silt muslin or serpentine crepe for which it is 50 well adapted the onepiece slip beneath it improve both its fit and appearance This model by the way may be made into a semiprincess by uniting the waist and skirt by a band of lace or embroidered insertion match ¬ ing that insert in lengthwise lines This is the most practical way to make the princess models in sheer ma ¬ terials which have not enough body in their texture to hold the shape of the smooth princess lines The shaped prin- cess ¬ is extremely effective when made of allover embroidery Allover embroid- eries ¬ may be bought at very moderate price if a simple design is selected r New Ideas of figure There is no question about the good i style of the princess models nor the general favor that is accorded them Now that we are realizing the fact that a pinchedin waist is not the suminall- of a good figure and that equalization of measures gics not only better bal- ance but absolutely a more youthful i carriage the princess gown in well fit easy fit is not the forbidden garment it has been to many women Fortunately too for in some of its many possible modifications it is embodied m changing styles The long panel at the front from neck to the bottom of the skirt is all that remains of it in some models but this is really the essential feature of the style It is introduced with excellent effect into girls dresses when the regular princess or Gabrielle model might not provide enough fulness on the slender young figure A plaited skirt is gen ¬ erally preferable to a gathered model for lightweight goods White lawn Indian linen or figured muslin may b- used or one of the dimities or printed silkandcotton fabrics for the dress with a plain color of the same material for the stole okc sleevebands and belt For wear under thin unlined dresses there is a French underwaist andpctticoat combination which has the longwaistcd bodyportion and a flounce that may be made to button on permit ¬ ting the same variety of flounces to be used as on the misses or ladies skirts Finishing Armholes A frill of lace will give the necessary finish to the neck and armholes and the includes straps to be stitched in indicated positions to the inside of the bodyportion to which the drawers may be attached making an extra underbody for this purpose unnecessary HELEN D PURDY but and Dish various minutes transfer into small pieces discarding all bone and gristle and most of the fat Pare and slice thin raw potatoes in the propor- tion ¬ of half meat and half potatoes chop a small onion fine i put the whole overt- ime fire in enough cold water to alloy for several hours cooking without re- plenishing ¬ which detracts from the rich- ness ¬ of the hash Bring slowly to the boiling point then simmer until the potatoes thicken the gravy Season to taste salt pepper and butter This hash may be cooked the day before then reheated for breakfast Quick Sash Cut tender cold roast beef or veal into dice put over the fire in cold water to cover well add for each two cupfuls- of meat one teaspoonful of onion and a pinch of celery seed Cook twenty minutes season salt pep ¬ per and butter and thicken the gravy with one heaping teaspoonful of flour wet with a little cold water Kuttoa Hash with Green Peas Chop the lean portions of cold roost or boiled mutton fine Cook in enough cold water to cover adding if the fihvor is liked a little minced onion Briiif slowly to the boiling point then move the vessel to a cooler part of the range and simmer until the meat is very ten- der ¬ Season with salt pepper and but- ter ¬ thickening with flour Have ready sewed peas fresh or canned seasoned- for the table also a sufficient number of buttered rounds of toast heap a helping- of the hash in the center of each round and surround with a border of peas Haca In Popper Shells Chop cold roast veal or Yowl Hnc cow with cold water and cook sovy until very tender Then season to taste with salt add a dash of cayenne end a generous Jump of butter Remove from the fire add sufficient breadcrumbs- to give body to the hash Have at hand the rcquired number of pepper shells washed clean fill these tool- mash stand upright in a bakingpan dot with butter half fill the pan boil ¬ ing water and stand in a hot oven fif ¬ teen minutes This makes s delicious luncheon dish or an entree d

W elJ I j I CrA SPPR cc zcTTY LATE FASHIeNSI-chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85058398/1909-09-04/ed...Xvender Linen with Embossed Trimming The embroidery which trims this simple

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Page 1: W elJ I j I CrA SPPR cc zcTTY LATE FASHIeNSI-chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85058398/1909-09-04/ed...Xvender Linen with Embossed Trimming The embroidery which trims this simple

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I LATE SPPR PARIS FASHIeNSI-D1SEAseN SrVl1ES HI VOGtIE

arc just at that rather dullWE midseason period in fash ¬

ions when the summer isalmost but not quite at an

end and the fall is almost but not quitebeginning Yet Paris is never Withoutideas even in the eddy of seasons andseveral new gowns have been shown inthe Bois that have attracted well meritedattention At this season too inone begins to gather from the generaigossip what the fall promises Ex-treme

¬

styles of the kind m whichand summer were fertile have passedout of vogue The fall shows a returnto the heavily draped and rather fullalthough dosefitting models of twentyto twentyfive years ago The black lacecape I show here is really a modemadaptation of the oldfashioned cir ¬

cular for instance How far we are toproceed along these lines I do not knowthe chances arc that after Red fern andPaquin have finished with their newmodels only those most gifted withimagination could trace the inspiration

Some of the gowns which I spoke ofabove I am showing you here They all

t of them are of the midseason variety-and can be worn up to the middle ofSeptember without discomfort

Transparent Black Wraps the Homonta TadParis women have taken up the

transparent black wrap with unusual en-thusiasm

¬

vcn for Paris These wrapsare of black net lace and chiffon andarc often elaborately embroidered withjet beads This graceful black chiffoncape falls from a shirred shoulder yokeof black velvet and over the chiffonfalls a netting of silver threads weighted-by velvet rosettes The cape is tre-mendously

¬

full at the bottom where itis weighted by an insertion of heavyYak lace

pale Blue Gown with Turquolio EmbroideryThe delicacy of this lovely costume-

can scarcely be realized from the illus ¬

tration which does not produce the col ¬

oring Over trailing slip of palebluecrepe de chine falls a tunic of whitelace and this lace tunic is weighteddown by the girdle of pearls and tur ¬

quoisecolored beads which hangs atone side A piece of this bluennd pearl embroidery hangs over thebodice of lace and the sleeves are ofblue chiffon and lace

Bleevelew Goats Smart If Not WarnThough the guy little sleeveless

wraps of lace are not the least protec-tion

¬

they are very charming over whitesummer frocks for afternoon wear Thislace coat is really made of four longpanels bound nt the edges with silk tomatch the frock it accompanies nndcaught together only under the armswhere the silk belt crosses Motifs ofheavy Irish crochet set into the stoleends give added richness to the coatThere arc no sleeves the armholes being edged with silk bands but thesleeves of the frock beneath arc made-of the same lace with tucked chiffoncuffs

Xvender Linen with Embossed TrimmingThe embroidery which trims this

simple yet pretty dress is dyed in thelavender shade of the linen Both coatand dress arc trimmed with this em-

broidcn¬

and also with the soutache-braiding followed with lines of heavystitching which produces a raised orembossed effect on the linen Around-the decolletage is a line of violet velvetand the violet note is repeated in velveton the hat which is of leghorn trimmed

f with wistaria The gloves arc thedainty Niagara embroidered sort withlavender embroideries on a selftoneground

FOR THE GIRL WHO WANTSI TO EARN

Possibilities of theWONDER if the girl who wantsI to make money has ever thought-of using the social and club sea-

son

¬

as a means of making extramoney Just now in big cities or insmaller you hear much of card clubsliterary clubs dancing parties afternoonteasthe whirl of the season is well bebun Let us study its possibilities wherethe girl with a is concerned

Every social and every club entertain-ment

¬

must have its touch of hospitality-in the way of refreshments Every hos-

tess¬

and every committee reach this pointwhere they would be glad to have certaindetails taken off their minds and handsThink of the opportunity this gives youin no matter what line your talent lies

How to Go About ItSuppose you live in a big oldfaih

ioned house the kind with center falland long double parlors or with onebig why do you not go rightinto the entertainment business Rentyour parlors to hostesses and clubs

Clear the rooms of superfluous furniture-and tint the walls a soft tintagainst which pretty gowns will be incolor harmony You can the wallsyourself to save expense but remember-

that certain strong colors will spoil th-

eO effect of certain other will

want to change the colors of your floral

decorations to suit seasons and occa ¬

sions and that is another reason wh

yOU must not have a background-Buy or rent folding cardtables and

chairs If ingenious you can manu-facture cardtables with boardfor the tops and broomhandles forlegs Cover the tops with muslin orfelt Invest a of your capital in

pretty inexpensive china if your ownchina closet will not supply enoughand do not forget the glassesThese arc always in demand and youcan doubtless rent them many timesover You can get very pretty platedforks and spoons in artistic patterns

Little by little you can add the naperyembroidering it with your monogram oryour favorite flower or if ou give yourparlors a name with the initial of thatSpecial parlors with the tableschairs and service for entertaining havebecome a need where space is scarce

u

TRANSPARENT BLACK WRAP-

The Frenchwoman Marco a Muff

The possibilities of coquetry in a muffarc fully appreciated by the Parisicnnewho dearly loves to pose with a hugefluffy muff in her hands and has hersummer muffs of chiffon and lace aswell as the warmer sorts for practicalwinter use This frock of pale mauvecachmcrc dc sole is matched bya hugemuff of the material trimmed with lacefrills and silk cord

Late summer always brings the prob-lem

¬

of the unlined gown To any butthe most slender figure a fitted liningis essential to shapeliness et we hesi ¬

tate to put a permanent lining into agown that is to be laundered Thescamfitted corsetcover either alone orin one of the sheath combinations solvesthe question so far as the waist is con-cerned

¬

Its use avoids the necessityfor bust supporters and the several cor¬

setaccessories of this kind that mean ¬

ing additional clothing arc none toowelcome in very warm weather

The plain corsetcover may be relievedfrom absolute severity by the judicious-use of trimming which should never beelaborate however The disclosurethrough a sheer waist of an overtrimmed corsetcover and large corsetbow of colored ribbon that had a certainvogue last summer is in questionabletasteto criticse it even mildly A

Social Season

f

and are welcomed by the hostess towhom entertaining means a deal of workworry and a readjustment ofthe domestic machinery

Renting Rooms

Large parlors with little furniture are-a pretty good asset for any girl to haveThere arc many times when she can rentthemto the kindergarten teacher forrehearsals for readings recitals anddemonstrations of women lecturersMothers would rather have their sonsand daughters attend dances given in theparlor of a house than in a public hallBig storerooms and attics may be rentedfor the storage of furniture I knowone oung woman who conducts a storage house hiring the teams and takingcare of a big business As bookkccpciin a storage house she was given muchmore than her share of work by the lazymanager

She did not complain but spent hertime learning the work and makingfriends of the teamsters and patronsand saving her money The next thinshe did was to establish her own busi-ness and rhe is succeeding welL Onegirl owning a fine roomy brick barnlined with felt for winter putin a big stove cleaned and decoratesit called it The Barn end rented ivery successfully for social affairs antentertainments In the summer shrented it to an artist and his wife Twother girls of my acquaintances rentheir old barn to neighbors for storintheir autos Big houses and big barncan be turned to account in many ways

Decorating-But there arc many more lines of worl

for you if you decide to try the enter-tainment bureau There arc the decora-tions You can plan these and makthe artificial ones including the candland lamp shades You can gradually accumulate palms ferns and rubber plantand baskets of trailing vines which yoican rent to others ust as time floridoes To keep the goodwill of the flor-

ist if there is one you could tell hirfrankly your plans and ask him to aHo-

you to work with him he furnishinl-the plants and flowers and you arrang-ing Study artistic mud suitabl

wM i i1IiW i

II

LAVENDER LINEN

simple embroidery design with a but ¬

tonholed edge or a frill of narrow laceis quite enough

decorations and discuss them with yourpatron but always keep back some littledetail as a surprise If there is a guest-of honor decorations in the lattcrsfavorite color arc a delicate compliment-

I will not go into detail about all thefavors scorecards and odds and endswhich make an affair unique Should-you hit upon a happy for scorecards you night work your way intofurnishing them to stationers Vhcn Istand over a case of unattractive favorcards in a shop I sometimes thinkWhat a more girls with real talent

and originality do not try their handsat these If you went about to yourfriends in your own town and townsnear you and offered to supply the favors

Ior decorations or to suggest them doyou not believe that your offer wouldbe hailed with delight

Catering

If you have any knack at all at pre-paring

¬

dainties the catering for parties-will appeal to you First there arc thedainty bonbons matching the decorationsin colora wide lirld for experimentwith fruit and vegetable flavorings andcolorings Dig up grandmothers oldcookbooks and try her recipes for mak ¬

ing ambrosia nectar and all the olddelicacies Sec how many new thingsyou can evolve There is a host ofcandied fruits and flowers that hostesseslove to serve in cut glass or fine chinacompotes for afternoon ten Each hostcs> 2 strives for something new in theway of little cakes tarts or biscuits

i Set out for example to coat differentkinds of fruits cakes and crackers witht chocolate or colored icings and you willbe surprised at the delights you canmanufacture

t Originate cakes candies and saladsPlan little menus which can be carried

s out with little expense After all yourown garden and pantry hold the mate-rials

¬

necessary to sake good foods Icannot make things good enough forparties you say Find a good catererand engage her services then remember-ing

¬

to always give work to others youcannot do yourself The fame of onewho can decorated cakesand salads goes abroad I know a wom-an

¬

in a Southern city who ornaments9 cakes with flowers of icing and was

urged by ladies who visited herliked her cakes to establish t thisho pin a Northern city

vThe field In SI

There is a chance for a real artist in-c decorating dishes and studying the color

I II

PALE BLUE WITH TURQUOISETRIMMING

UlIIIC Trimmed UnderwearThough almost every woman likes

daintily trimmed underwear she should

form and harmony of fruits and saladsLuncheons wedding breakfasts and teasgive the caterer and decorator the bestchance As society reporter I heardmany ladies including the wife of nformer president of the United Stateslamenting that more young women withartistic sense did not enter this fieldplan menus and decorations for thehostess see that the tables and parlors-were properly arranged and everything-in m the kitchen

In connection with her entertainmentbureau the ambitious girl must notneglect to study forms of social eti-quette

¬

to advise puzzled hostesses toknow the correct wording of invitationsand the little points that many hostessesdread Here too comes in the work ofmaking out lists and addressing invi-

tations¬

and delivering them impress asmall boy in neat clothes into service-for this ideas for announcements ofvarious sorts getting up programs sell-

ing¬

advertising space on programsallt-hese can be taken in charge

Winter rind Summer 77orhThe willing girl will find a large field

in selecting prizes for card clubs andcontests or games She can haunt thehome shops and send for cataloguesfrom dealers in other towns Cotillionfavors should bring fame and money tothe clever girl I knew a little Germanwoman a street seller of artificial flow ¬

ers who was grabbed up by a co ¬

tillion club of generous youn peopleand kept busy and happy making won-

derful¬

things of tissuepaper boasmuffs wands hats garlands flowers

When summer rolls around you canmove your entertainment scenery outofdoors Arrange your lawn and yourporch for partygiving You will needfresh white covers for your tables andchair backs to protect dainty gownslanterns big jardinieres rugs or canvasif tables are set upon the lawn Thereare man little details which the ob-

servant¬

hostess does not neglect Youhave a good chance to help your boy-

friends Interest them in forming astring orchestra or mandolin guitarcliibj and engage them to play for yourparties Here too you have a chance-to help a girl friend who is musicalhy engaging her to play One youngwoman a with two sons culti-vated

¬

her talent for plavinc good dancemusic and hind her musicallyinclined-son taught to play the drum and thetwo arc kept busy with engagements

Do Bntlneis In Business rashlonIn all your dealings remember to go

THE SUMMER MUFF

select her plainest corsetcovers to wearunder a transparent waist Better stillthen wearing the dress directly over the

over each step carefully with your pa ¬

tron leaking sure that you each under ¬

stand alike The wisest way is draw-up a written memorandum in duplicate-and submit it to her before you go aheadYou will have to use tact in doing thisMany women dismiss business matterswith a shrug but are quick to takeoffense over discussions of prices andpayments Strike all your bargains first i

have the money question so clear1 un-

derstood¬

that can be no feelings-It takes courage to have money deal ¬

ings with friends but you must make upyour mind to keep your lead clearsmile and be pleasant about it and knowabsolutely that you arc in the right Be-

ware¬

of the friend who says Oh dontbother me with price i just go ahead anddo the best you can and I know it willbe all right Nine times out of tenshe is the one to complain and feel thatshe is being cheated no matter whatprice is charged her

A HOMEMADE DOLL-

A doll which will prove serviceableand attractive to nearly all little tots may-

be easily and cheaply madeBuy a sofa pillow top on which 11

printed the face of a pretty girl Roundthe corners until time face is in the centre of a circular piece about twelveinches in diameter Run a stout threadaround the edge draw together andstuff with bits of paper or shreds ofcloth This is to be the head Fromstout unbleached muslin cut all in onepiece the body arms and legs Stitcharound edges cutting an opening downcentre of back Turn inside out andstuff with sawdust Close opening care-

fully¬

and sew on time head Dress in alittle Red Riding Hood outfit and theresult is a doll that will be a joy forever-to the little heart whose property shebecomes

A little girl who has dolls of all de-

scriptions¬

from a big French doll thattalks down to one made as describedabove and christened Baggy lovesRags better than all the others andonce when a thoughtless auntie madesome disrespectful remarks about her-

r l mothers heart wasalmost broken Surely many little girlsnot so well favored as the one just men ¬

tioned whose parents have to spendtheir money to uv and other ne-

cessities¬

instead of dolls would appre-ciate

¬

a doll like this Many alife can be made happy for years by oneof these inexpensive but beloved toy

THE SMART SLEEVELESS COAT

corsetcover and a white cambric skirt-is to have a fitted slip made for thispurpose It takes the place of a liningand certainly makes one seem muchmore properly dressed

If made of suitable material it may re ¬

place the corsetcover and long petti ¬

coat Under a gown of transparentfabric a slip of this sort is practicallya necessity It assures the same shadeand color under both waist and skirtand by its smoothlyfitting lines addsimmensely to the good effect of the cos ¬

tume It also does away with that bug¬

bear of the summertimethc gapingwaistline

Still another advantage is that bysupplying slips of different colors andusing corresponding ribbons at girdleneck and hair a very pleasing varietymay be given to one gown The slipmay be of silk but it is by no meansnecessary that it should be Lawn anygood mercerized lining fabric or satiremay be used The latter is especiallyadapted for this purpose as itwears and looks well A good cottonmaterial is infinitely to be preferred toa cheap silk

The Princess SlipPerhaps as satisfactory a way as any-

to prepare for the summers dressing isto have several of these princess

HOW TO MAKE GOOD HASH IA Despised Economical Nourishing

many palates the taste of

To hash is wholly unknownbecause though such a com ¬

dish few cooks under-stand the art of making it and do notappreciate that the ordinary mixture ofmeats and vegetables masquerading ashash is but a travesty upon the wellmade article

If the directions given in the follow-

ing¬

recipes for the kinds ofhash be strictly observed the result ineach instance will be a most satisfactoryrevelation to time housewife whose make-shift

¬

of a dish called for want of an ¬

other name hash has only met withscant welcome o the family table

CornedBeef HashThis is perhaps the most usual and-

at the same time one of the most savoryKinds of hash To make it allow oneput of cold boiled potato cut into smallcubes to two parts of cold cornedbeefchopped fine mix well and season totaste with salt and pepper Put a largetablespoonful of butter in a fryingpanwhen melted turn the meat and potatomixture into it and add enough boilingwater to moisten thoroughly Coverclosely and set on a hot part of therange for five being careful notto let it scorch When a crust is formed-on the bottom turn and brown the upperside then to a hot platter andsend to the table at once

CornedBoe Hash with Caeaso

Prepare the meat and potatoes as inrecipes then put into a but-

tered¬

bakingpan molding with thehands into the form of an omeletDredge with breadcrumbs dot withbits of butter and bake a lifjhtbrown in-

a hot oven Just beforefrom time oxen cut four ounces ofAmerican cheese into small pieces andstir over the fire in two tablespoonfulsof sweet milk until melted anegg light add one tablespoonful of milk

mix well add to the cheese season withcayenne and stir a few minutes Turntime hash out on a hot platter pour thecheese mixture over it with

parsley and send to the table at once

Beefsteak thI

Cut the lean portions of leftover steak

made of wellshrunk nainsook or longcloth Jf detachable flounces are pro-vided the arrangement will be perfectThe flounces may range in degrees oifineness and elaboration from lawncrossbarred dimity figured or dottedSwiss to handsome embroidery or lacetrimmed organdy and French lawnThere will be better protection to theflounce if the slip is allowed to extendm full length underneath it

Gather the top of the flounce into anarrow band Work in it buttonholesabout two and onehalf inches apart andsew buttons on the skirt at correct

for the flounce A band of em-broidery

¬

or ribbonrun beading stitchedto the buttonholed band at the upperedge only will conceal the buttonholesUsing tho SUp With i roPleco Costuno

It is not only under a princess dressthat the princess slip will be appreciatedThe avoidance of extra belt thickness-and adjustment is quite as much to bedesired under a skirtandvaist ccs stume A misses costume shown in timeshops is not a model that requires a-Iming in the making but when devel-oped in the lawn batiste Swiss siltmuslin or serpentine crepe for which itis 50 well adapted the onepiece slipbeneath it improve both its fit andappearance This model by the waymay be made into a semiprincess byuniting the waist and skirt by a bandof lace or embroidered insertion match ¬

ing that insert in lengthwise linesThis is the most practical way tomake the princess models in sheer ma ¬

terials which have not enough body intheir texture to hold the shape of thesmooth princess lines The shaped prin-cess

¬

is extremely effective when made ofallover embroidery Allover embroid-eries

¬

may be bought at very moderateprice if a simple design is selected rNew Ideas of figure

There is no question about the good istyle of the princess models nor thegeneral favor that is accorded themNow that we are realizing the fact thata pinchedin waist is not the suminall-of a good figure and that equalizationof measures gics not only better bal-ance but absolutely a more youthful icarriage the princess gown in well fiteasy fit is not the forbidden garment ithas been to many women Fortunatelytoo for in some of its many possiblemodifications it is embodied mchanging styles The long panel at thefront from neck to the bottom of theskirt is all that remains of it in somemodels but this is really the essentialfeature of the style

It is introduced with excellent effectinto girls dresses when the regularprincess or Gabrielle model might notprovide enough fulness on the slenderyoung figure A plaited skirt is gen ¬

erally preferable to a gathered modelfor lightweight goods White lawnIndian linen or figured muslin may b-

used or one of the dimities or printedsilkandcotton fabrics for the dresswith a plain color of the same materialfor the stole okc sleevebands andbelt For wear under thin unlineddresses there is a French underwaistandpctticoat combination which has thelongwaistcd bodyportion and a flouncethat may be made to button on permit ¬

ting the same variety of flounces to beused as on the misses or ladies skirts

Finishing Armholes

A frill of lace will give the necessaryfinish to the neck and armholes and the

includes straps to be stitched inindicated positions to the inside of thebodyportion to which the drawers maybe attached making an extra underbodyfor this purpose unnecessary

HELEN D PURDY

but and Dish

various

minutes

transfer

into small pieces discarding all bone andgristle and most of the fat Pare andslice thin raw potatoes in the propor-tion

¬

of half meat and half potatoes chopa small onion fine i put the whole overt-

ime fire in enough cold water to alloyfor several hours cooking without re-

plenishing¬

which detracts from the rich-

ness¬

of the hash Bring slowly to theboiling point then simmer until thepotatoes thicken the gravy Season totaste salt pepper and butter Thishash may be cooked the day beforethen reheated for breakfast

Quick SashCut tender cold roast beef or veal into

dice put over the fire in cold waterto cover well add for each two cupfuls-of meat one teaspoonful ofonion and a pinch of celery seed Cooktwenty minutes season salt pep ¬

per and butter and thicken the gravywith one heaping teaspoonful of flourwet with a little cold water

Kuttoa Hash with Green PeasChop the lean portions of cold roost

or boiled mutton fine Cook in enoughcold water to cover adding if the fihvoris liked a little minced onion Briiifslowly to the boiling point then movethe vessel to a cooler part of the rangeand simmer until the meat is very ten-

der¬

Season with salt pepper and but-

ter¬

thickening with flour Have readysewed peas fresh or canned seasoned-for the table also a sufficient number ofbuttered rounds of toast heap a helping-of the hash in the center of each roundand surround with a border of peas

Haca In Popper Shells

Chop cold roast veal or Yowl Hnc

cow with cold water and cook sovyuntil very tender Then season to tastewith salt add a dash of cayenne end agenerous Jump of butter Remove fromthe fire add sufficient breadcrumbs-to give body to the hash Have athand the rcquired number of peppershells washed clean fill these tool-

mash stand upright in a bakingpan dotwith butter half fill the pan boil ¬

ing water and stand in a hot oven fif ¬

teen minutes This makes s deliciousluncheon dish or an entree

d