Vw Aircooled Engine

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ime To Rebu i ld? . . . . . . . . .

AccumulatedMileage

Oil Consumption .

Poor Performance

DiagnosticTests .

Removal

Preparation

Beetles& KarmannGhias Type 1) ....

Bus & TransportersTYPes & 4)

Fastback, quareback, otchback Type3) .....

41U412

Porsche/VW 14

Parts Identification & Interchange ........

Indentification...EngineDescriptions

Cases

Crankshafts

Flywheels

ConnectingRods .

Pistons& Cylinders

CylinderHeads

Oil Pumps& Camshafts . . . .

Oil Coolers& SheetMetal .

l8

1 8

1 9

LJ

26

261, 1

5

.7

l 3

31-'tz

34

35

38^ a+J

44

45

46

53

55

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57AccessoryRemoval-Uprights 58

Accessory emoval-Flat .. 62

Basic ng ine . . . . 66

Valve Train 66

CylinderHeads 68

Oil Pump 68

SplittingCases . 10

Crankshaft eardown 12

Table of ContentsJ . Crankcase & Cylinder Reconditioning ....75

Clean& InspectCrankcasearts ... . . . . . . 75

Crankshaft 82

Pistons& ConnectingRods 88

Oil Pump 94

Camshaft 96

Cylinder Head Recondit ioning .... . . . . . . . . 100Disassembly .. 101

ValveGuides& Stems .... . 105

Inspecting Reconditioning alves .... 101

Valve-Seat econdit ionittg. .. . . . . 110

Rocker -Arm erv ice . . . . . . . . 111

Valve-Springnspection& Installation .... .... ll 2

CylinderHeadAssembly .. ..- . lI4

Intake& ExhaustManifolds ... . . . 115

Engine Assembly . 116

Crankcasessembly ... . . . . . 119

InstallCrankshaft .... l2l

Instal lCamshaft .. . . . 122

PrepCylinders .. . - . 132

valveTrain "' 134

External ccessories ... . . . . . 138

Type1 &Pre :72 B us . . . . . . . " 138

Type3 .. . . 143

4111412, ost:12Bus, 914 .. 148

8. Engine nstallation,Break-in,Tuneup . 156Transaxlerep .. . . . . 156

Engine nstallation .. I5'1

T y p e ' . . . . . . . . 6 0

T y p e . . . . . . . . . 6 1

T y p e . . ' . . . . - - 6 2

T y p e . . . . . . . . . 6 3

914 . . . . 166

FirstStarrl . . . . 169

Break- in Tuneup . . . . . . . . .170

7.

Index . . . . . . 173



The Volkswagen Beetle hardly needsan in-

troduction. In any society with pdvate trans-

portation hey're ubiquitous n the extreme; t's

difficult to imagine roads without them.

But in the mid-'3Os there were no Volks-

wagens,not even in Germany' In fact, there

weien't many cars of any type on German

roads, a fact Adolf Hitler said he was gorngto

change.His requirements or an inexpenstve,

mass-produced,high-cruising-speedcar were

met (if not without difficulty) by a bright en-

sineer namedFerdinandPorsche.The Volks-

iuug"n *u, presentedat the 1939Berlin Motor

Show. A factory was built in Wolfsburg forBeetle production and Germany was about to

get lts car.

Of course, what Germany got was a long

ways from the people's dream of motoring

down the autobahn.War brought Volkswagen

production only in the ffansmuted Type 82

military fotm, now known as the Thing'

Although 70,000 Type 82s were built for the

Wehrmacht, such a basic design was hardly

suitable for popular ffansportation when

hostilitiesended,or for the chaos n what was

left of Germany. Without a government, cur-

rency or economy, it seemed he Volkswagen

had beenstillborn. But from the rubbleof 1945

a few cars were built from spareparts' TheBritish officer in chargeof the Wolfsburg fac-

tory assisted he German workers in building

morecars,and he Beetlewas on it s way'

Eventually he Volkswagencame to the

UnitedStates.As in otherworldwidemarkets,

the Beetle sold on its economy and superior

workmanship.Americans ame o respect nd

ultimately adore he round-backedcar, buying

it in numbersother import builderscould only

envy. Bus and Squareback ersions ollowed

with equalsuccess.

Now, long after the introduction of faster,

quieter and roomier economy cars, air-cooled

Volkswagenscontinue to be popular. Other

cars may be more modern, but none offer theold-world craftsmanshipor personality of a

Volkswagen.

IntroductionAnd so we reach the point of this book,

rebuilding air-cooled Volkswagenengines.

This is an engine that needs step-by-step n-

structions for rebuilding. It's not that it's so

difficult to rebuild. No, with minimal patience,

tools and cash, the air-cooled VW is easily

overhauled.It's just that the engine s so com-

pletely different. In fact, you'd have difficulty

coming up with a design more out of the ordi-

nary if you tried. Traditional rebuilding tech-

nioues and books based on them don't have

mich to offer the VW rebuilder.

But just as unfamiliar roads are easily

traveled ifyou have a good map, this book

helpsmakeVW engine ebuildingeasy.Pitfalls

can be avoided if you know about them ahead

of time, and like a detailed map, this book

points out the hazards.

With the wrong turns clearly marked,

rebuilding an air-cooled VW is fun. Just as a

Beetle or Bus is fun to own and drive, rebuild-

ing theseengines s probably more satisfying

than going through other, more common en-

gine slyles. Unlike many engines, he VW of-

fers opportunitiesto measureand adjust basic

engine parameters; ot just disassemble nd

assemble nginecomPonents.

This book eliminates a lot of legwork for

you. I've traveled to machine shops,parts

iuppliers, manufacturers, acersand otherVW

rp-iiulirt. to gather the information presented

hire. The knowledge in thesewords and pic-

tures represents he combined experience of

many people, all experts in their field.

For the camera and personalexperience,I

rebuilt severalair-cooledengines,and I think

you'll agree the intricacies of VW engine

rebuilding are more thoroughly documented

here than anywhere else. Additionally, the"Parts Identification & Interchange" chapter

offersconsiderablemoney-saving nformation,

not available anYwhereelse.

A few specific understandingsand cautions

are appropriatehere. First, until you've beenaround VWs for some time, it's difficult to

remember o keep the positions front and back

properlyoriented.Like left andright, front and

back n this book are basedon the enginewhile

it is in the chassis.Thus, the flywheel is at the

engine's ront, and the crankshaft pulley is at

the ear. Cylinders I and2 are on the right, and

3 and 4 are on the left. This goes againstcom-

mon, ingrained automotive knowledge and

takessome ime to get used o.

Therefore,you have o keep emindingyour-

self that the flywheel end s the engine's front.

After awhile it becomes natural. Of course,

therehas o bean exception,and he 914 s t. A

mid-enginecar, the 914engine s turnedaround

so ts flywheel s at he car's ear' Unless his s

imporlant, as in the removal and installation

sequences, 14 enginesare treated ike any

ottier. So when I speakof the front oil seal

mean he one at the flywheel end' whetheryou

have a Bus or 914.

Also, always take the time to double-check

your work. Just emember he saying,"There's

never time to do it right the first time, but

there'salways time to do it over'" It's a lo t

faster to double-check than it is to rebuild it

twice.Finally, while VWs are a common sightand

don't commandhigh prices, hatdoesn'tmean

they are a cheap, hrow-awaycar. A lot of care

and thought went into every VW built, and

treating he carefullyconstructedair-cooleden-

gine like an appliancewon't pay off' VW en-

gines are full of precision tolerances hat re-

soond to cleanlinessand careful assembly.

So read ahead, and keep this book on the

benchwhere t will behandy.If this is your first

engine rebuild, it may seem ike there are oo

many stepsor points to remember. To that I

say, get starledand handleeachpoint oneat a

time. Readaheadof your progress n the shop

to keep he ob in perspectiveand alertyourself

to needed ools or supplies.Soon you'll be

listening to your Volks puttering smoothly n

the driveway-asoundof wonderful personal

satisfaction.

*ffi:::S+i'*

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TirneTo Rebuild?

Simple s t rnaysound,befbrebeginninganengineebuild, irst deciclef a rebuil-dsneies_sary.Sometimes his is easy, for instance,when wo.connectingoclsare poking throughthetopofhecase.Othertim"r, o*.diugnoii ,rsneeded.

.In thischapter,we'll examine omediagnos_

l : , t t .p tlo dc lermine ngine

ondi t ion iSyIo l low lnghem.1ou' l l getan exacr .Stateo flneL.ngine." h ich . rl l he lpyou dcc ide l arebuild s required.

.,B:iur: beginninglour ct' forts.ea f hrough

lnrsbookand any other VW lirerltureavail_able,.e., he owner'smanual.Study he pic_tures ndskim hehighpointsof the ext. GetaDasrcomprehension f how air_cooledVWsar e bolled ogether. u you ca n underslandwnal gotng n when hey al l apar t .

MILEAGETotalmileage sn't a very good yardstickof

ondition. pay more attention o how

tne car was operatedand maintaineddurinsthosemiles.These re nore mportanthan hirccurnul r ted i les .

While the air-cooledVW engine,especiallyTypes l-3, isn't well-known for extremelongevity, t wil l go more ha n 100,000milesbetween ebuilds.When driven inside ts oer_

formanceimitations,ancl iv.n p.op.. r..ui..,a sedan ngine hould ast hi s ong.Buscngines nd hoscl r i ven l i rord tvo i_

cal l y asr ess . usengincs car a\ tc rbec iureof extraweight,wind resistancend heir owgearin-e. Bu sengine evs igherthan sedan,so the engine "travels

farther" than a sedanpowerplant br eachmile covered.Dirt is theenemyof ofT-road ngines

Thoseengineswith the shorlest if-espan relhe poorcngines r ivenhl rd anc l i ven i i l l eserv ice. W engincs resusccpt ib leo hcr t .Dr i renhard. hey anbeorerheuied,spcc ia l l vi f ' hc o i l i sn ' t changcd l ten.The ai i -co, , le iVW just doesn't ol d ha t r-ruchil . It alsohas

no paperoi l filter, (except n the late Bus andType 4) , so iequentoi l changesare l:tsr.tlLttelymunJatrtrt or longengine it 'e.

OIL CONSUMPTIONOil consumption s determinedby an en_

gine 's n lernal l c t rances nd s an excel lent

gageof engine ondition.When an ensine snew. ts n lernal learanccsreeas i l yU i iOsedbyanoi l f i lm. There re ight euls r hcpis ionnngsandvalves . ndhigho i l prcssuret hemarn,rod and camshaftbeanngs.

As mi lesa( .cumula le.hese ansuear anddimens ionsncrease.hen.o i l c rnnotbr idsethegapsbetweeningsandcylinderwallsandlssucked into the combustion chambcr andburned.You'l l se ea wispy rai lof bluesmokefrom the exhaustpipe.

At the crankshaft, xcess lcarance as essresistanceo oi l flow, andoi l works ts wav tolhe ent ls f the. iournals here t ' r f lungot f .This causesmoreoil to try and il l the voiil and



Oil consumption s an excellent nOicator tan.engine's nternalcondition.To check,makesure oil is levelwith top line. Recordodometer eading,and eaddipstick egular_ly._When il leveldropsto the tirst finJnotemileage and subtract first reading fromsecond.Differences oil consumptio-nate.

;:rij!l iiiiir,: irii::!tr,i:,r:;ili::,itiil,Sffi

fltfvensing andmissing ir ilrerwiltshorrenttii eus.nli*ffiii of service ndooroperating ractices illdestroy nyengine, utair-iootet-vtlv'"nlp"rti"ular equireregular ilchanges ndspot-ongniiionimin6.-'

oil pressuredrops. It also causes ncreasedoilconsumption becausemore oil is splashedonthe cylinder bores. When oi l consumption shigh and oil pressure ow, a rebuild is requiredto correctexcess learances.How Much Is Too Much?_Certainly,there'sno harm in buming a quart of oil eveiy1000 miles or more. Between 500_1000miles per quart indicatesa slightly wide clear_ancesomewheren the engine,but not enoughto ustify tearingt down.Suchoi l consumptiincan result rom partson the looseend oi theacceptable-toleranceange.or from partialre_buildswhere hecylinders ndpistoniwereno treplaced.. f a new quart is neided every 500miles or less, he engineneedsattention.

There are two parts that contribute to anengine burning oil: worn rings

and valveguides.Both et oi l enter hecombustion ham_ber where t is partially bumed and sentout theexhaust. A single puff of smoke immediatelyupon start-upafler sirt ingovernightusuallymeanswom guidesand piston rings.

Another good test is to find a ione hill tocoastdown while in top gear.Wheny6u reachrn eDottom, lancen he mirrorasyo uopen hethrottle. A puff of smoke ndicatesworn guidesor rings. But, if the engine ays down a i-mokescreen,you can bet the rings are at fault.Blowby-Just as worn rings and cylinders al_low oil to enter the combusiion chamber,theyalso le t combustion asespass n th e otherorrectron. nto the

crankcase.These blowby

6

gasespressurlze he crankcase,contaminatingtheoil. Telltale signsareblowby vaporblowin!

out the oil-filler and dipsrick holei.Blowby used o be vented o the atmosphereat the oil-filler hole, but it hasbeen outed o theair filter by a hoseand meteredorifice (valve)since rhe mid-'60s. From th e air fi l rer. theblowby sburned n thecombustionhambers.along with the normalair l fuelmixture.Thispos tive crankcas ventilation (pCV) plumbingdraws more blowby out of the crankcase haimerely venting it to the atmosphere.Oil stayscleaner,and esspollutantsare spewed nto theatmosphere.

There s no PCV valve on Type I and uprightType 2 engines.Type 3 and'4 engines^usEPCV valve n the hose eading rom rhecrank_

case o the ntake-airdistributor.Freshair fromthe air filter enters the engine at the rockercovers on these engines. A flame arrestor isplaced n both hoses unning from the air filterto the rocker covers to stop backfires fromreaching he crankcase.Valve Guides-Some oil passagepast thevalve stemsand piston rings is normal. Afterall, ifthe ringsandguidesweresealed il_tisht.they would wearout in less han l0 miles fiommetal-to-metalcontact.

_Excessiveil loss hrough heguides ccurswhen guide-to-valve learances too larse.This lets roo much oi l berween he guide a"ndvalve stem. Then, next time the intike valve

opens,oi l is sucked nto thecombustion ham_

ber.Exhaust alves anpass il th esameway.But because n exhausiport is a hot. mostiy

high-pressurearea, excessiveclearance hereresults in blowby into the rocker cover. Air_cooled VW enginesarehardon guidesbecauseofthe anglewith which the rocker arm contactsthe top of the valve stem.So, oi l loss hroughthe guides s common.Oil Leaks-Many air-cooledVW ensineseakoil . Muchof the ime. he eaks rem-inor, ndwon't affect oi l-consumption alculations.But, ifthe enginehasmoreihanone eakor onebad leak, it will affect these isures.

So you won't be fooled by an oi l leak whentrying to figure how much oil is being burned,Iet's review some of the common oi l leaks.Because omeoil leaks esult rom wornengineinternals,this review shouldbe an ntegral"partof the enginediagnosis.Oil-Pressure Sender-Oil-pressure sendersoftendribble from their plasticcenters,causinsa puddleright under he sender.Wiggle th iplastic center.If it is loose, replace hJs"ender.Original-equipmentBosch)senders rebesr.Oil Pump-Leaks from around the oil pumpa.remost common in recently rebuilt engines.They result from prying the-crankcaserdvesapart with screwdrivers, ice picks and otherbarbaric instruments. Tighten the oil_pumpcoverplate first. If that doesn't stop he^leak.remove he pump and rry repairinghe matingarea of the crankcase. RTV silicone sealeimakesa good temporaryfix here, but the oer_



ure s disassemblinghe engineand

materialby weldingMating Surface-Most

eak someoil at the front, the resultof

rankshaftoil seal.This results

mess n heengine'sbottom,but shouldn'tny alatm.

heotherhand, f the area s washedclean

flowingfrom the bellhousingarea, heoil

s serious. If the seal was recently re-

t mayhavebeen nstalled ncorrectly.

he engineand nstallinganotherone

only cure.

engine asa ot of mileson it, and he

has not been changedrecently, then the

main bearing may be pounded out-the

sactuallydeformed-from excessiveend

is a seriousproblem and should be

ight awaY.

cause riginates rom the # I main bear-

he oneclosest o the flywheel, wearingThewear s in two directions,oneparallel

crankshaft, alledendp ay, and he other

o the crankshaft. The per-

orce wearsthe main-bearingbore

o hecrankshaft s freeto wobble.

xcessive nd play and wobble

heneoprene il sealat the bearingbore,

oi1pourspast t. lf this problemis detected

enough, he main-bearing bore can be

nd he casesaved. f the problem is

ontinue,machining robablywon't

any good, and the case will have to be

expensive ix.

Theresn't any methodfor detectingcrank-

obblewhile he engine s in thechassis.tyoucanmeasure ndplay, at east n Bee-

andearlyBuses.Mount a dial indicator o

directly off the crankshaft pulley and

ndplay. It can take ots of muscle o

hecrankwhen he engine s together,so

heclutch and hen monitor the pulley'

hedetaileddirectionsfor measuringend

page 126, if necessary. f there s a

oi l leak at the bellhousing,and the end

s or evenseemso be excessive, ull the

nd ebuild it. Putting this problem off

nbe veryexPenslve.

There'sa chance, oo, that the transaxleseal

eaking, nd t alsodripsout hebellhousing'

adabof thedripping liquid on a finger tlp,mell r taste t. lf you're unfamiliarwith

smelland asteof gear oil used n the trans-

open he transaxle iller hole and take a

Comparet to the bellhousingleak' If

ransaxles eaking,pull theengineor trans-

and eplace he transaxlesealright away'

problem on't go away,and he onger t

the greater he chance of ruining the

disc.

l Cooler-Oil coolers eak or two reasons'

hecoolerhassplit apartanywherealong

e ubes, r t is ooseon its mountings'Both

are real gushersbecauseof the large

volumeof oil passing hrough he cooler.Re-

move the cooler to inspectthe mountings and

have it pressure-checked.

Case Leaks-These can be anywhere along

the caseparting line. Usually theseare little

weeping eaksand pose no danger.When oi l

pours rom between he casehalves,however,

someonehasuseda screwdriver o pry thecase

aoarttherel a definite mistake. The machining

on VW case alves softhe highestquality,and

their precision,gasketlessoint is a marvelof

Germanproduction echnique.To staba screw-

driver nto this oint is criminal, andwill cause

a leak. Unfortunately, there is no cheap,sure,

cure.You can ry RTV sealer,Devconor some

othermaterial o fill thegap, but the only endur-

ing cure s to weld or replace he case'

A casecan also eak througha crack' The

magnesiumcaseof Type 1-3 engineswill

crack soonet or later from fatigue. Chapter 5

has more infbrmation on case cracking. See

page 76.

POOR PERFORMANCE

Performances bestdefined or our pulposes

as a.ffi<ency.This is because he nan engine

yields poor fuel economyand power, it is in-

efficient.Diagnosis houlddeterminef theen-

gine s using he ight amountoffuel to produce

the expected amount of power. Remember,

performancerefers to both engine power and

fuel consumption. f power or fuel economy

drops,engine nternalsmay or may not be the

cause.The diagnostic ests ater n this chapter

are designed o systematicallyuncover the

Drivinq without engine compartment seal

mav ieem harmless, but lets hot, dirty,

undet-car ai r into engine bay. Cooling effi-

ciency drops and air filte(s) must.fen-d off

constint bilmbardment of dirt; engine life is

shortened.

specificproblem.

To locate the sourceof poor performance,

stafiwith a tuneup.This meansa valveadjust-

ment, points, plugs, dwell, timing and car-

buretor or injection tuning. Complete the

tuneup yourself before performing any di-

agnostic estsor have t doneby a professional

tJneup shop. Get a completeanalysisof the

engine's condition from the shop. They see

.iny, trlunycarsandhave earned o quickly

and accurately iagnose heir problems.



Early engines have few adjustmentsand are great at-home uneup proiects. Later fuel-injected ngines anbe impossibleo tune withoutprofessionalquipment.

Basic Fuel-Inject ion Troubleshoot ing-Later engineshave lots of vacuum and fuelhoses hat arepafi ofthe fuel-injection ystem.All hosesmust be in perfectshapeand ightlysealed, or the engine will not run right or re-spond to tuning. The idle may be erratic,stumbling and searching increasingand de-creasing); his is called hunting.

Other fuel-injection problemscan convinceyou the engine s at fault, but can be solved withminimal work, if not expense. f an injected

engine won't run, first make sure all fuel-systempartsare correctly installed. Every part

must be in place, ncluding he ai r filter.Check all hoses or connectionand condi-

tion. A stuck dirflow sensor, he flap in the boxnext to the air filter, can cause driveabilityproblems. f the flap won't move freely after alittle fiddling, buy a new one. Finicky idleproblemsand weird throttle responseon fuel-injectedBusesand914sareoften raced o thethrottle switch mounted right next to the throt-tle. Unscrew the switch from the throttle, re-move he cover and note he wrper contacts hatsignal hrottle position. Bending the arms sothey wipe a new areaoften helps. Fuel-injectedType 3 throttle switchesoften needadjustment,too. Cloudsof blacksmokeout he exhaust ndpoor running below full throttle indicateelectroniccontrol unit (ECU) failve or a cold-start valve that has stuck open.

If the engine responds to the tuneup withrenewed performance, you've probably curedany problemsand a rebuild isn't necessary.But, go ahead and do diagnostic ests as adouble-check.

8

If a tuneupdoesn't estore ostperformance,

do the following diagnostic ests.Tuning the

enginewill have helped n two ways. One, by

showing there is something internally wrong

and two, eliminating external variables from

the diagnostic ests.Don't skip the tuneup,or

someof the diagnostic ests will be inaccurate.

For example,a cylinder won't have ull com-

pression f the valves are incorrectly adjusted.Vacuum test results will also be affected.

CAUSES OF POOR ENGINE

PERFORMANCEA quick look at the most likely internal en-

gine problemswill helpput them n perspective

before you start testing for them individually.

Keep in mind that internal-combustionengines

are nothing more hanair pumps. They perform

work by inhaling air, compressing t and ex-

panding t, harnessing he expansionand exhal-ing the byproducts. Burning fuel only makes

the air expand. So, anything that hinders an

engine's breathing reduces its efficiency-

both power and fuel economy.The key to an engine'spumpingefficiency is

the tightnessof the combustion chamber: the

area ormed by the piston top, rings, cylinder

wall, head, valves and sparkplug. f any of

thesepartsallow air to escape rom the combus-

tion chamber, engine performance will drop.

Additionally, enginebreathingwill suffer f the

valves and valve train are in poor shape.

A worn-out engine will generally perform

poorly and use a lot of oil. This is most likely

causedby worn rings and cylinders.But it is

alsopossible or engineperformance o be low

Examining nginewill often reveal nterest-ing details,especiallyf considering uyingacar.Beetleenginehere s builton a Type3

case! Large oil passage top photo) and Uletter code (bottom)were first tip-offs. Un-derneath, he dipstick ube s an add-onunit,another lue.

and oil consumptiono be normal. n this case,the valves,camshaft, r valve springs ould be

at fault.Burned Exhaust Valve-When a mechanic

says a valve \s burned, this means that some

someof th e valve's/ace (sealingsurface)hasbeenerodedawayor crackedby the blast ofhot

combustiongases.Think of combustiongases

as an inefficient cutting torch and you'll un-

derstandwhy valves burn.A burned exhaust-valveface can't make a

gas-tight seal against ts seat, which causesa

large drop in power and compression.As this

condition worsens, a chunk may be burned

from the valve head,allowing all compression

to escapeout the exhaustport. The engine hen

runs on only threecylinders. When a chunk is

missing, it's indicated immediately during a

complspeepress

no coEve

droppthead bType Iand st

arateheadandcythe pi

The

usualin thewith ttlifterswill b

warnir

It 'sa valvthree(ande

enginOn

corTe'7 8

a

lic val

the valfor pe

air-coneedp

servicance

A !seateguide

closeclearcool a

The bEve

piece

headvalveerosibumi

be noThe

lessprbecauvalve

sodiuing tewhenvalvein the

Wh

stem,coolestem.

valvebroug



est because engine cranking

oesn'tchangeon th at cylinder's com-trokeand he gage eadsvery little or

worse han a burned exhaustvalve is a

valve. A v alve dropswhentheoff from the stem. Becausemany

-3 exhaust alvesaremadewith heads

temsoined ogether. hey sometimes ep-t he oint. When this happens, he valve

estroyshe piston crown, cylinder wall

headas t getsslammedaroundby

valve stem,spring, retainer andkeepersall sortsofhavoc

cover. Metal particles circulateoil and score he crankshaft. camshaft

oil pump. Luckily, the exhaustvalve

badly before t drops, so this is somehe entire engine.

painfully obvious when an engine dropst will immediatelybegin running on

accompanied y a ot of honible

xpensive) attling. Instantly shut off the

o help minimize damage.primary cause of burned valves is in-

e adjustment.This isn't a factor on

Busesbecause hey have hydrau-valve lifters adjust

and eliminate he needvalve adjustments.All other VW

ngines use solid valve lifters anderiodicvalve adjustments.Skipping this

r maintaining nsufficient valve clear-

an easily lead to burned valves.

only when it is fullycooling takes place through the

and some at the seat when the valve is

f avalve staysopen onger dueto tight

r whatever, t hasboth less ime to

and absorbseven more combustionheat.

burningprocesshas begun.well-maintainedvalves can bum if a

f carbongets caught between he valve

ndseatas he valve closes.This holds hepartially open and can start the gas-

process. Once it starts, the valve-rocess s rapid. Usually a valve will

burned in 2,000 miles or less.

eexhaust alvesused n 914 enginesare

roneo burning thanother Type 4 engineshey are sodium-filled. This type of

has a hollow stem, partially filled with

Sodium melts well below the operat-temperature f the valve, so it is a liquid

the engine is running. Reciprocatingmotion hrows the sodium back and orth

hollow stem.sodium s at he hothead-endofthe

t absorbs eat. Then it gets ossed o the

where t passeshe heat o the

The stem s in constantcontact with theguide, so it can cool well if heat is

o it bv sodium or someother mech-

anism. Thus, heat s transferredby the sodium

from thehead o the stem, which shedshe heat

quickly to the valve guide. From the guide, the

heat passes o the head and ultimately to the

cooling air. The net result s a cooler-running,

longer-lasting xhaustvalve.Exhaustvalves are muchmoreprone o burn-

ing han ntakes.This s because xhaust alves

are exposed to combustion heat on both the

combustion-chamberand port sides. Intake

valves, on t he otherhand, are cooledby each

passing ntake charge and are heated only on

the combustion-chamber ide. Because ntakes

run so much cooler than exhausts, they are

much less apt to burn.

Another factor affecting valve burning on

engineswith upright cooling-fan mounting is

oil-cooler placement.Before'71 , the oil cooler

was mounted nside the fan shroud, n the path

of cooling air going to the #3 cylinder. This

preheated ylinder #3's cooling air, causinghigh cylinder temperaturesand prematurely

burnedexhaustvalves.In '71, the oil coolerwas movedout of #3's

airstreamand an offset sectionwas added o the

fan housing to enclose the relocated cooler.

Such doghouse an shroudsstop #3's exhaust

valve from burning any sooner than the rest.

Type 3 and 4 enginesnever had this problem

because he flat mounting ofthe cooling fan has

alwayspositioned he oil cooler awayfrom any

one particular cylinder.

Loose Cylinder Heads-Type 1-3 VW en-ginesdon't useheadgaskets.nstead, hey rely

on a metal-to-metalsealbetween he top of the

cylinder and the cylinder head o contain com-bustion gases. If these parts loosen for any

reason, combustionpressureand gaseswill be

lost throughthe gap. Type 4 engineshave a hin

metal gasket for better sealing. Still, Type 4

enginesget combustion leaks just like Types

1 - 3 .What typically happens s the cylinder head

studspull out of the case, etting the cylinder

head and cylinders bang back and forth with

piston motion. The problem s the hreadsn the

case,not the studs. The studs are steel, and

their threadsare strong. The threads n the case

are magnesium, which is no match for steel

when t comes o mating threads.Under normal

conditions, the studs won't pull. But after

100,000miles, the magnesiumcan fatique and

the threadsweaken.Then the weak threadsare

ripped right out of the case by cylinder-head

torque and combustion pressure.

Excessivecylinder-head orque will alsode-

stroy these hreads n short order. Somepeople

may look at the ow torquespecificationsgiven

for thesecylinder headsand figure they aren't

enough.So, when they assemblehe engine,

they add en pounds orque o the cylinder-head

nuts. Or, perhaps hey arehaving cylinder-head

sealingproblems. So they whip out the breaker

bar and crank the headnuts down another um.

What they don't understand, s the torque

applied o the cylinder-headnuts s not the same

amountof torque hat seals he heads.When the

engine s cold, there s only 18 or 23 frlb of

torque on thestuds.But when he enginewarms

up and expands ike a balloon, the aluminumcylinder headsand cast-iron barrelsgrow a lot

longer than the steel studs. The studs are

strainedand being pulled from the case.Now

the effective torque on the studs is nearer 55

ft-lb. If the at-rest torque is misapplied, for

example, to 40 ft-lb, then it will reach over 70

ft-lb at operating temperature.No wonder the

studspull out of the case!

Overheatingthe engine has the sameeffect

as overtorquing the cylinder-head nuts. The

engine expandsoversizewhen it is overheated,putting more strain on the cylinder studs. The

first point to give is the cylinder stud hreads n

the case.

When the studsdo pull, it leaves hecylinderfree to hammer the crankcase and cylinder

heads. f the problem s caughtsoonenough,

the heads and case can be machined back to

service, but don't count on this remedy all the

time. The hammering ruins the engine and it's

not even a worthwhile core. Becauseonce the

cylinder heads,barrels and case halves are re-

placed,you've ust aboutboughtanew engine.

Pulled studs area very common problem up

through he70 Type 1-3 engines.Type l-

3s rom'77have

steel hread nserts nstalled n

the case at the factory. The steel hread nserts

are commonly called casesavers.They can be

added when rebuilding to earlier cases that

don't have hem.With casesaversnstalled,pulled threadsare

no longer a commonproblem. If an enginewith

case savers s overheated,however, the cylin-

der heads can warp, letting combustion pres-

sureescapebetween he cylinders andcylinder

heads.Hammeringof the caseandheadsby the

cylinders is not a problem with warpedheads.

Carbon Deposits-Although carbon deposits

don't fall under hecategoryofengine damage,

and a rebuild is not necessaryo remove hem, a

few words about carbon will help you with

enginediagnosis.

Carbon is a solid byproduct of incomplete

combustion, some of which sticks to the

combustion-chambersurfaces.Both gasolineand motor oil are hydrocarbons, so burning

them in the combustionchamber n the wrong

amountscausesexcesscarbon deposits.

The most common sourceof harmful carbon

deposits s excessiveoil consumption,although

a rich airlfuel mixture can be just asbad. Pro-

longed idling and slow driving can also cause

carbon buildup. So, carbon deposits are a

symptom of a problem, not the source'Merely

ridding the engine of carbon won't cure the

problem, only delay the symptoms.Therefore,

while there may be ways to get rid of carbon

buildupwithoutoverhauling nengine. uring



excessive il consumptionmay meanan engineoverhaul.

Carbondeposits cause rouble in two ways.First, they may shroud the valves. Carbon de-positsbuild up on the backsideof a valve andrestrictairlfuel mixture flow into the cylinder.

Carbondeposits n the combustionchamberscan alsocausedamage.Carboneasily heats oincandescence, ausing preignition and deto-nation. These types of abnormal combustioncan damagean engine by placing a heavy loadon engine internals.

Imagine red-hot carbon in the combustionchamber.When a fresh intake charge s com-pressed n the compressionstroke, the hot car-bonpreignitesthemixture. A moment 1ater,hesparkplug iresand he mixture also startsburn-ing near heplug.Thetwoflamefronts collide,sometimes producing an explosion-detonation-rather than even buming. The

resultingsuddenpressureand temperature iseis more than the engine was designed or. Pis-ton, valveand ing damagecan esult fpreigni-tion or detonation s prolonged. Although notas severe, preignition without detonationcauses excess combustion-chamber pressureand temperature,but without any accompany-ing pinging or knocking.

Detonation s very similar to preignition, butthe second gnition source, heglowing carbon,lights the mtxtureafter the sparkplughas ired.Again, combustion-chamber emperatureandpressure xceeds nginedesign imits anddam-age occurs. Audible signs of detonation arepinging or knocking, soundsakin to colliding

billiard balls.Admittedly, substantialenginedamage rompreignition or detonation isn't prevalent, butsevere ases an burnor blastholes n oistons.break ings.anddeform he main-bearing oresin the crankcase.Also, long-term light detona-tion will wear the rings, pistonsand cylindersmore quickly. So, prompt attention to thecauses f abnormalcombustion s wise. Theyareusuallyassociatedwith low-octane gasolineot over-advancediming.

Recent esearch ndicatesa small amount ofknocking or pinging is not harmful to an en-gine,butdoes educe ueleconomyandpower.This is sometimescalled light pinging. Never-

theless, e concernedfthe engine s knockingheavily. Besidescarbon buildup, detonationcanbe caused y staleor low-octane asoline,over-advancedgnition imingandengineover-heating.Check or these roblemsf the enginedetonates.

Pay specialattention o the ignition timing ofa VW engine. As an air-cooledengine, t isvery susceptibleo overheatingand preignitioncaused y too-advancediming. If the enginepingsat the slightest oad, retard he timing adegreeat a time until it doesn't ping. Thistiming setting may be retarded rom the speci-fied stocksetting,butwith today's uel t might

1 0

Denecessary.Ignition timing is also commonly over-

advancedby owners looking for more power.It's no secret that advancing the spark in air-cooled VW engines increases their power,throttleresponse nd mprovesengineaccelera-

tion. But the penalty or too much total advanceis severedetonation. If you advance he igni-tion pastspecification, you may pay for it withan engine overhaul.

Heed another warning: These engines self-destruct atherquickly when the cooling systemfails. If the cooling flaps remain shut from abroken or missing spring, stuck thermostat,orforeign objects in the fan housing, cylindertemperatureswill quickly go sky-high. The ex-cessheatwill causeseveredetonation,hole apiston and spew metal throughoutthe lubrica-tion system.This devastation an happen nless than one minute if the engine has beenrunning for 10 minutes and is fully warm.

Loose carbon depositscan also lodge be-tween the electrodes of a sparkplug, or getbetweena valve headand ts seat,asmentionedearlier. f a pieceofcarbon sticksbetween heplug electrodes, the sparkplug will short outand he cylinderwill misfireor go totally dead.Plug replacementor cleaning usually curestheseproblems.

A carbon-aggravatedproblem most peopleare amiliarwithis dieseling-the engine uns-on after the key is turned off. A hot piece ofcarbonacts ike a diesel-engine low plug bysupplying an ignition source other than thesparkplug.Ridding heengineof carbon,slow-

ing the idle and reducing sparkadvancea fewdegreeswill help reduce dieseling.

As a final note on carbon,considervehicleoperation.If you drive a delivery route, or do alot of in-town, slow-speed, hort-tripdriving,carbon will build up because f low cylinder

temperatures.You can easily burn-oul excesscarbon accumulated his way by taking the carfor a long trip. Drive it a half hour or more atfreeway speeds.This will heat he combustionchamberand burn away excesscarbon. If thatdoesn't help, the engine may need a pro-fessional uneupor carburetoroverhaul.Wornringsandvalveguideswill alsocause xcessivecarbon buildup from incomplete oil buming.They contribute excessoil to the combustionchamberand t can't be completelyburned.Fuel Shut-Off Solenoid-Type I and 2carbu-reted engines since

'70have an electric uel

shut-offsolenoid attached o the idle circuit ofthe carburetor.When the ignition is turnedoff,

the solenoid s deactivatedand a spring-loadedplungercloses he dle circuit.This shouldstopthedieselingmentioned bove.So, f there s aproblem with it, the fuel shut-off solenoid maybe faulty.

To test the solenoid, remove its electricallead. Look for the small canon the sideof thecarburetorwith the wire leading o it. The sole-noid is on the left side on

'71and ater carbs

(34mm) and.on he right sideon earliercarbs.Turn on the ignition without starting he en-gine. Now touch he lead o the solenoidcon-nection. Each time you touch the lead, thesolenoidshould click (the plunger s moving

Stethoscope s preferred ool for pin-pointingnternalengine noisesbecause t amplifiessound coming hroughprobeand reducessurroundingnoisewith earplugs.

insidwire i

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f you don't hear a click, check if the

s supplyingelectricitywith a test ight. If

wire is"hot" (hasvoltage), the solenoid s

needs o be replaced. If the wire is

(no voltage),traceand repairthe wiringhen recheck he solenoidoperation.

Someonemay have replaced the solenoid

dle screw. If so, there's no

unless he enginediesels.Then rein-

uel shut-off solenoid.Carburetorsnot

equipped with the solenoid can't

t added.Consequently, iming and idle-

djustments re equired n thesecases o

dieseling.

On pre-'71 carburetors, the fuel shut-off

nd doublesas he idle metering et.

orifice s very smalland even he iniest dirt

can clog it. A shot of compressedair

clears he orifice.

On Type 3s with dual carburetors and twoeterminewhich one s defective by

irst one solenoid and then the

The enginewill die whenyou unplug the

hat's working andshow little change

you unplug the one that's not.

Fuel-injection systems stop fuel delivery

engine is shut-off, so dieseling

houldn'tbe a problem with them.

IAGNOSISNow that we've examined some engine

roblems.et's start n on how to find them-

without taking the engine apart. The engine

mayor maynot be exhibiting problems, but do

thetests nyway. f ith as aproblem,you'll findit. If not, you'll haveestablished baseline f

the engine's condition. From there, you can

decidewhetherto rebuild now or later.

NOISE DIAGNOSIS

Internal Noises-Diagnosing enginenoises s

a difficult and imprecise art. Many factors in-

fluencehe way soundsare perceived, not the

least eing he human actor. When investigat-

ing an automotive sound, try different spots.

Open he hood, close the hood, sit inside the

car, stand o one side, stand n back, lay down

in back and to the side. You won't hear all

noisesrom eachspot.And, those hat you can

hearwill sound different from each spot'.

People ro.biasedowardperceiving via their

eyesight, o closeyour eyes o help focus atten-

tion o the sounds.Cuppingyour handsaround

your earsmay look funny, but it helps mask

soundsrom the sidesand amplifies those in

front. t's a greatway to pinpoint a noise.

Finally, learn to mentally dissect what you

arehearing.Upon first hearinga runningen-

gine, he initial impression s a big jumble of

sounds. y critically identifying each sound,

youcanmore easily block out the unimportant

soundswhile concentratingon thoseyou want

to hear.Aids for locating noises are a stethoscope,

lengthof heaterhopeor a wooden dowel. Un-

like the stethoscopea doctor uses, an auto-

motive stethoscopehas a solid metal probe at

the business end. It works best when held

against a solid part-head, case, manifold,bolt heador the ike. Ifyou suspectanoise rom

beneatha cover,place he stethoscope gainsta

nearby bolt head or solid rail. For example, a

noisy valve can bestbe heardby listening at the

edgeof therocker coveror cylinder head,not at

the middle of the rocker cover.

As a secondchoice, a engthofhose or dowel

can be used insteadof a stethoscope.With a

hose, hold one end firmly against the engine

and the other end to your ear. When using a

dowel, position the receivingend of the dowel

againstyour skull, just forward of your ear, so

engine vibrations don't bounce the dowel into

your ear.

Engine noises can be lumped into threecategories: ntermittent ones, those occurring

eachcrankshaft evolution, and hoseoccurring

at every other crank revolution. First, the in-

termittentsounds-the oddballs.These areex-

ternal sornds coming from loose brackets,

rubbing hoses, items stuck in the fan and so

forth. By poking around the engine compart-

ment, you can singleout and stop hesenoises.

Noises that occur at every other turn of the

crank-at camshaft speed-are most likely

coming from the valve train: valves, rocker

arms and ifters. There s onebottom-endnoise

that can happen at every other revolution-

piston slap. Piston slap is the soundproduced

by the piston slamming against he cylinder asthatcylinder firesat the op ofthe power stroke.

Piston slap is audible when piston{o-bore

clearance s excessive.And, because here's

only one power stroke for every two crank

revolutions, it occurs on every other crank

revolution. Piston slap is easiest o detecton a

cold engine,beforethe pistons have expanded,

reducing piston-to-boreclearance.

Noises occurring at every turn of the crank-

shaft come from the bottom end: worn piston

pins, brokenrings, worn rod bearingsandmain

bearings.If you have rouble telling whether anoise s

at one-half or at crankshaft speed, hook up a

timing light and see f the noise coincideswithflashesof the light. If it does, he noise s at

one-halfcrankshaftspeed-a top-endproblem

or piston slap. If the noise occurs twice for

every flash, it's at crankshaft speed-a

bottom-endproblem.

Isolating Normal Noises-Now for the hard

part:What do these roblems ound ike?Let's

startwith normalenginesounds.As you listen

to an air-cooledVW, the dominantsoundwill

be theexhaust.Leaningforward into the engine

compartmentwill help mask the exhaust,so

you can more easily hear internal engine

noises.

Once oast he exhaust, he main noiseof an

idling engine should be the soft ticking of the

valve train. Raise the rpm past idle and the

ticking should urn into awhirr. Ifyou hear one

valve over the rest, or if all the valves are

making more of a harshclacking sound,adjustthe valves.A proper valve adjustmentcan only be done

while the engine s cold. But, if you are check-

ing for one loose valve, you can locate t on a

warm engine.Just emember o properly adjust

the valves after the enginecools. All air-cooled

VWs use0.006-in.valveclearance, nlesst is

a Type 4 engine with hydraulic lifters. There

have beenotherclearances pecifiedby VW in

the past, but all have been superseded y the

0.006-in. measurement.Valve adjusting pro-

ceduresare on page 136-138.

Ifvalve adjustmentdoesn't cure avalve-train

noise, it's possible there is a wom camshaft

lobe or lifter. Then all the valve-adjustmenttightening in the world won't quiet the engine;

it will only bum the valve. Never closea valve

adjustment ighter than 0.006 in., or the valve

will burn. If the valve noise remains after

adjustment, ook elsewhere or the source.Try

the rocker arms, lifters or camshaft.

Rocker armscan be checkedby moving each

by hand with the valve completely closed. If

there is any appreciablemovement other than

90'to the shaft, the rocker-armbushingor shaft

is worn. This, in effect, increases he valve

clearance,which increases oise.Cam and ift-

er inspection require enginedisassembly.

The other major noise in a air-cooled VW

enginecompartmentcomes rom the an. It canmake several different sounds, ranging from

the ow-pitch noiseassociatedwith ahouse an,

and a high-pitch whistle. Type 3s and flat-

engine Type 2s project more fan noise than

Type ls, early Type 2s and 9l4s because he

fan is right in front ofyou when ooking into the

engine compartment.

Abnormal Fan Noises-A lot of abnormal

noisescome from outside the engine. For ex-

ample, a whining or screamingfrom the fan

areausually means something s caught n the

fan. Stop the engine, and probe the fan area

with your hand. Remove any debris. If you

don't find anything, remove he an belt and un

the engine for a few seconds. f the noisedis-appears, ou've got a cracked an or badgener-

ator or alternatorbearings.

This test will isolate only the generator or

alternator on Type 3 and 4 engines because

their fansare driven directly off thecrankshaft.

Therefore, if you still have he noise with their

fan belts removed, the problem is in the fan'

A sharp, ntermittentrattling noisefrom the

sheet-metalan shroudof Type I and2 engines

may be a loose or broken fan. Check the tight-

ness of the large fan retaining nut, and try to

wiggle the an on its hub. It maybe necessaryo

remove the fan and generator assembly o in-

vestigate his noise.

1 1



Rhythmic scraping soundsare ikely to be abent crankshaft pu11ey r the cooling fan rub-bing the fan shroud. Pushingor pulling on thetop of the fan shroud will probably eliminate

the an noise.Bent crank pulleysareeasily seenby sighting across hem while the engine dles.A few well-placedwoodenblock and hammerblows can straighten out a bent pulley. Thesheet-metalshrouding can be bent out of theway with a wooden dowel, screwdriveror thelike.

Distributor Chirping-Dry distributor-camsurfacescan causethe points to give a high-pitchedchirping.Make sure he distributor camand points rubbing block are well-lubricatedand then recheck.Intake-Air Hissing-A loud hissing accom-panied by poor idling usually indicates anintake-air leak, commonly called a vacuumleak. Check the tightnessof the carburetor{o-intake manifold connections, plus the intakemanifold-to-cylinderhead hardware.On dual-port and fuel-injected engines, examine therubber hose sections of the intake manifold,plus the air intakeand meteringarea n general.Cold-startenrichmentdevices normally makesome sucking or hissing sound while they areoperating,so don't be confusedby them.Exhaust Leaks-These are often confusedwith other, more seriousproblems, so it's agood idea to check the exhaustsystem beforejumping to any conclusions. f the exhaust sys-tem is tight, sealing he endsof the pipes wiltstop the engine.

So, with the engine dling, cover the exhaustoutletswith palmsthat areswathed n wet ragsor block the pipes with your shoes, if that'seasier.You'll have o apply considerablepres-sure o exhaust openingsas a well-sealedsys-tem has a lot of pressure.If there are leaks,you'll hear a phuft, phuft, phuft, phuft soundcoming from the leak. Don't leave your handsor shoesover the exhaust pipes very long, orthey'll get burned. Exhaust is very hot.

Exhaust systems can leak from anywhere,ut mating flangesat the cylinders, muffler and

ailpipe extensions are the usual spots.Another typical exhaustsound s a whistle as

he engine s accelerated. t is causedby looseor cheap replacement ailpipe baffles on Bee-tles and early Buses.

iston Slap-Piston slap has already beenmentionedbecauseof its timing. It occurs atevery power stroke, so it sounds off in timewith the valve train. Piston slap is a dull, hol-low sound. It's difficult to hear over the nor-mally loud VW engine mechanicalsand notasy o isolate. In fact, there's a better chance

of hearing t while driving than listening for itwith the hood open.

Ifyou think you hearpistonslap, removeandeplace he sparkplugwire to each cylinder one

at a time. When you get to the affected cylin-

der, the noisewill greatly diminish. Disabling

1 2

DISABLINGTHE IGNITIONMany diagnostic estscall for the ignition

system to be disabled.With conventionalignitionsystems, hereare severalways toshort-circuithe electrical upply o heplugs;someare better han others.The bestway isto removehe high-tensionead rom he cen-ter of the distributor ap and ground t.

The high-tensionead s the large,.heavilyinsulatedwire running rom the coil to thecenterof the distributor ap. To r emove t,grasp he bootaround hedistributor-caper -

minal, wist he leadslightly, nd pullout helead.The wisthelpsbreak ny corrosionhatresistswire emoval.Now,ground he ead othe heador engineblock.

On engines wilh electronic gnition, Ihereshouldbeno morethanal/4- in.gapbetweenthe free end of the lead and ground,orignitiotn-system damage may occur. Thisgives he high-voltage lectricity omewhereto go, insteadof cont inuing o buildvoltageand rying oarc oground nsidehecoil.Thiscan destroyan expensive lectronic-ignitionmodule.Once he est sdone, imply einsertthe lead nto he distributor ap.

the cylinder will reduce piston slap becausecombustion loads no longer exist. Reconnect-ing the plug lead will restore he noise. Be sureto groundthe plug lead when disabling a cylin-

der. See the sidebar for more information ondisabling the ignition.

Piston-Pin Noise-Allair-cooled VWs usefull-floating pistonpins. When thesepins wear,

ortheir bushingsget oose, hey don't makeanynoise. Even when a clip is broken and hepin isfree to score the cylinder, it won't raise anyracket. You have to take the engine apa.rt odetectbad piston pins. They are very rarely aproblem, so don't lose any sleepover them.Rod Knock-If there is one internal enginenoise associated with air-cooled VWs, rodknock is it. Rod knock describes he knockingsound madeby a connectingrod when there sexcessiveclearancebetween t and the crank-shaft. When rod-bearingclearances large, oilcan't fill the gap betweenthe rod bearing and

crankshaft.Metal-to-metalcontact startsas he rod bear-ing is slammed against the crankshaft. If onerod is bad, you'lI hear one steady knockingbeat. Ifyou are on a long trip and overheat heengine,you may hear he rod knock startout asa light tap, move into a medium rap and inallydevelop nto a knock. The sooneryou stop andoverhaul the engine, the better.

By the time a rod is knocking, serious dam-age has been done to the crankshaft and rod.Continued driving may spin the bearing. Aspun bearing is one that is rotating relative tothe rod and the crankshaft. In other words, thebearing s no longer clampedby the connecting

rod. When the bearing spins, it covers the oil

Round can at right is throttle dashpot. t

dows throttle closingvia rod restingagainstthrottle linkage, which is being dis-connected. For quicker throttle responsewhen testing or rod knock, disconnectandplug acuum ine eadingo dashpot. his sa411 engine,but dashpotsare found on allair-cooledVWs.

holes in the crankshaft. Oil ceases o flow tothat rod and it rapidly overheats.

Many times, the rod will weld itself to thecrankshaft, seizeand break. The rod, case,andcamshaftare sure to be broken. Usually metalparticles from the rod have been pumpedthrough the engine with the oil, and all otherprecision clearances have been destroyed bythe passingmetal. When you hear a rod knock,STOP! Rebuild the engine while there is stillenough to rebuild.

Rods also wear with accumulatedmileage.Then they wear in sets, so you'll hear acastanet-like attling with old, tired bearings.This sound is often heard during a cold startbefore oil pressurebuilds.

To test for rod knock, thoroughly warm the

engine to operating temperature. With thetransaxle n neutral, lightly rev the engine, sayfrom 1000-2000 rpm, andabruptly lift offtheacce erator. Engine rpmmust drop sharply. Asrpm drops, the rods should rattle, knock orpound, for an instant, dependingon how youhear it. This is because he rods float on theirjoumals as they pass hrough the transition ofbeing loaded, then quickly unloaded.Main-Bearing Knock-Sounding similar to,but deeper than, worn rod bearings are badmain bearings. Main bearingsknock for thesame reasons as rods-excessive oi lclearance-but under different conditions. Totest or main-bearingknock, put the thoroughly

warmed engine under load.

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a manuai-transa xlear, load the engineirst gearand etting out the clutch

engine egins o labor. Then oad heurtherby puttinghalf of your right foot

brakeand he other half on the accelera-parking brake, too. Keep engine

about 1000 rpm during the test and

the car creep forward. With a littlendclutch uggling, theknockingmain

ill sound off with a heavy, low-ounding.You can practically eel

hanhear t. Be careful Don't do hishree secondsor you'll burn out

alsohearbadmainbearingsoing phill, accelerating r duringother

f high engine oad.

an Auto-Stick or ful l automatic trans-he esl or ba dmain bearingss easier.

he ransaxle n gear,hold the brake irm-

your eft foot and depress he accelera-with your right. Don't overdo t; ust

so the car tries to creep. If thegoing to knock, they'11 o so

There s no need o keep he engineis very tough on

few seconds5-10) and he

bearingsarequite largeand strong

horsepower f the engines.Therefore,

arelyail, wearout, or makenoise.This s

rue of Type 4 engines. The rod

more suspect. If you hear

from the engine, chances

fail.

TESTSacuum-The nextdiagnostic tep

acuum est. This checks

umping bilit y of the engine.By measur-

engine produces whileyou are really testing how well-

he cylinders are. If all internalpartsare

hape, he enginewill producea lot oft, vacuum will be pro-

ower.by warming the engine to operating

minutes dling or a five min-

Check or heatout of the heater, oo.

need o overheat he engine, ust

he engine s warm, shut t off, disable

o the engine can't start, and con-your vacuum gage to a fulL manfold-

source. Any vacuum nipple on the

manifold will do. Just make sure theported vacuum-from one

nipples on later car-

r fuel-injectionsystems.acuum exists in the carburetorpri-

venturi, ust above the throttle plates. It

vacuumsignal used or operatingvar-

emission-control witches. But, it's a

reads ow on part-throttle

of the high manifold-

vacuum readings under the same conditions.

A note about altitude and how it affects

vacuumreadings.Becauseatmospheric res-

sure drops as altitude increases,cranking

vacuum will drop about I inch of mercury(in.Hg) for each 1000-ft ncrease n altitude.

So, at 5000 ft, for example n Denve r, Col-

orado,crankingvacuumvalueswill be 5 in.Hg

below areading aken at sea evel. The vacuum

valuesgiven below are or measurements t sea

level.Prop the vacuum gage so you can see it

through therear window, or have a riend crank

the engine.An engine n good condition will

pull a steady acuumofabout l0 in.Hg. (This

sameengine n Denver s registering in.Hg.)

A wom engine with no major problems will

have a steady,but lower reading. Don't bealarmed f the needleswingsabout2 in.Hg-

it's normal on a four-cylinder engine, es-

pecially slow-cranking ones with 6-volt start-

lng systems.If theneedle egularlydrops o near0 in.Hg,

then there is a problem. Such a vacuum drop

can have numerous causes: poorly adjusted

valves,burnedvalves,worn cam obes,pulled

head studs, warped cylinder heads and worn

cylinders,pistons r rings.To pinpoint hecyl-

inder at fault, you'll have to perfbrm more

tests.Power-Balance Test-This test shows how

much each cylinder contributes to the power

outputofan engine.Thus, t also solateswhich

cylinders contribute little to manifold vacuum.

You canperform a power-balance est at home

on any air-cooled VW except for'79

and ater

Buses.They areequippedwith electronicgni-

tion that can't be open-fired.

To do a power-balanceeston them, he ead

has o be groundedwithout open-firing it first.

A professionaloscilloscope/diagnosticester

easilydoes his. You cando the same y insert-

ing a metal spring betweenthe sparkplug and

lead. Then to ground he ead, ouchagrounded

wire to the spring.This s easier aid handone

in the confines of a Bus engine compartment,

so a professional est s the bestmethod.

To perform a power-balancetest on other

engines,pull all sparkplugeadsoff the spark-

plugs, then set the leads lightly back on the

tops.You're going to lift a lead off its plug

without a lot of tugging. The idea s to pull the

lead away from the plug and ground it against

the head and stop hat plug from firing-this is

called open-firing. The engine will then be

running on threecylinders. By comparing he

resulting rpm drop for eachdisabled cylinder,

you can determinewhich cylinder s at fault.

If you suspect burnedvalve or othermajor

problem, a quick, ear-calibrated power-

balance estwill t ell whatyou want o know-

which cylinder is it? BecauseVWs haveonly

four cylinders,a bad one shows ight away. If

you are looking for a more subtle problem,

however, use a dwell/tachometero measure

rpm drop or each ylinder.The car's ach s not

'-%iffi' "Y::;"''*

Manifold acuum s excellentndicator f overallenginecondition.You can detectmaiorproblemsn secondswith a vacuumgage.Thisengine sn't drawingmuchvacuumduringiunning dle est. Judging romgritand ackof air ilter, ingsareprobably hot.

' t3



+FLYWHEEL

Late Type 2& Type 4

@ype 3

Type1 & EarlyType2

plugs I

show l

Cylinder ayout,distributorpositionat TDC(TopDeadCenter)andfiringorder.Alldistributor oiors,crankpulleysahd ans rotateclock-

wise. Notevacuumadvancecan positibnand rotor tip pointsat #1when installed.

Distributor riveshaft lot positionat TDC,cylinder#1. Noteoffsetofslot: thickerarc facesdifferentpositiondeiending on engine.

cause

drivenYou

who r

turn a

race. fengin

oily pl

with tt

Comppressi

conditi

Theretapere

and he

the sc

difficumountcoolinlhold abent irscrewtype, )helper

any cacompr

Thedisabout fo

enginfully

openiusinglinkag

helpswhen

ingawill ctengin

Scruse.J

self. Ilbusypplug

witandcr

aboutcranki

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Re

grve

Reading.parkplu.gsan-yieldmportant roubleshooting lues.PlugA suffers from heavilyroundedelectrodesand pitted insulator. t's worn out. Replacesuch plugs and engin6performancewill improve. Plug B is oiFfouled.Shiny-black-coatingnciicaiesexcesd oilconsumption,possibly rom worn rings and valve guides. plug c is carbon-fouled; on'tconfuse t with oil-fouling.A carbon-fouledplug's dry, flat-blackcoatingcomes from ex-cessively_richirlfuelmixtures,stop-and-go rivingor-a oo-coldplugheit range.plugD isnormal.Electrode oundingsrnoderateand nsulatbrseven andr gray, ndicaiing ll i well

in the combustion hamber.PhotoscourtesyChampionSparkHu! C'ompany.

1 4

accurateenough for this test.

With thc tachometerconnected, ground thefirst plug leadand wait for engine rpm to stabi-lize. Now, write down the reading and recon-nect the plug lead. Go to the next plug and dothe sameuntil you've done all four.

It doesn't matterso much how far rpm dropsas how close the readings are to each other.Don't expect he readings o be any closer han20 rpm. But when these eadingsstart varyingby more than 40 or 50 rpm, take notice.Remember, he cylinderswith the eastdropare

the bad ones. Therefore, a really bad cylindermay not drop in rpm at all. Of course, if allcylinders are bad, none will drop very much.Good VW cylinders usually registera drop ofabout 200 rpm.Reading Sparkplugs-Think of a sparkplugas a removable portion of the combustionchamber,andyou'll see t hasusefuldiagnosticpotential. Because he compression est fol-lows, which requiressparkplugremoval, let'sdiscuss parkplug eadingnow.

Normally, aplug should bedry, with an eventan coating and slight rounding of the elec-trodes.If the fuel mixture is too rich, the plugwill be coatedwith dry, flat-black carbon.Rub

the carbon onto the palm of your hand. Theblack depositsshould wipe off easily. If themixture is too lean, the plug will be powderedwith a white coating, and the porcelain in-sulator will appearburned. The insulator canalso turn a pastel green or yellow in normaloperation, depending on the individual fuelblendbeihgused.Oil in thecombustion ham-ber will leave he plug wet and shinyblack. Rubthat into your palm and you get an oily messthat won't rub off easily.

When reading plugs, pay more attention tothe porcelain insulator aroundthe centerelec-trode han he metalshell. t's mostsensitiveocoloring and more likely to show symptomsof

unusualcombustion. Also be aware hat soark-

' tEt rcET - | ao"= paElTrNr,= | r i rE I":?i

cAsEPARTINGINE--.---\i

6-Ll t/ (il i-\^Y/-7-l-,;, ; - i iype&Earry f-b-l' l\ ir y p e 2

( ( ( a \ \ i \ |

+ .)KY, *,.K"LYWHEEL

Type3i1

Type2

B

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rom a street-driven ngine can onty

hemost asic ombustion onditions e-

fthemanyoperatingconditions a street-

ngines subjected o'

mayhaveheardabout he acemechanic

ead he plugs' then made a one-eighthadjustmenlo the carburetorand won the

hat'son a raceengine;plugs in a street

an't be read that way' Check for the

lug nastreet ngine..lt eveals problem

ings r valveguldes'

Testing-The familiar com-

est is a good way to measuretne

f the rings, cylinders and valves'

re wo typesof compression esters:a

ubber-coneype that is inserted into

eldagainsthe opensparkplughole, and

crew-inype.The rubber-cone ersion s

ouseon VWs becauseheconeand ts

reusually oo short o reach hrough he

hrouding.They are also awkward toagainst ylinder pressurewhile you are

nto a VW engine compartment. Use a

ester, f possible. If using the cone-

ou'll needa remote starterswitch or a

crank he engine. A helper is bestjn

ase ecauset leavesyou free to watchthe

ageduring the test'

enginemust be warmed up, ignition

nd all sparkplugs removed' Watch

orhotpartswheneverworking on a warm

he throttle and choke plate must be

open or an accurate est-part-throttle

esultn lo w readingsSo . if you're

"r.to,. starler witch.prop the throttle

pen with a screwdriver. If a friendavehim fully depress he accelerator

cranking he engine.Note: Avoid smok-

andopenflames ecauseheairlfuel charge

ro*i out of the sparkplugholeswhen the

s uanked."Screw-incompression estersare easier to

ust crewt in and crankthe engineyour-

f you usea rubber-cone ester,you'll be

ushinghecone ightly against he spark-

hole.

frith .ith.t method, hold the thottle open

rankheengineso the testedcylinder has

-8 compression trokes You can hear

peedslow as the tested cylinder

up on ts compression troke' Note how

compressionncreasesand jot down the

eading' Test all four cylinders the

tuy. Giveeachcylinder the samenumber

compressiontrokes.

Like the power-balanceest, even reaolngs

e esirable. epending n the engine' pres-

enough, hey'll come close o the othercylin-

ders. Wet tLst such a cylinder, because his

condition s usually causedby poor nngs'

On the otherhand, a cylinder sufferingfrom

excessive iling-from bad rings even-can

vield hieh compression-testeadingsbecause

L*..r, oi l in hecylinder ealshe ings'Again'

if you crankthis type of cylinder enough,rela-

tively high readingscan result'

There are variablesthat affect the readings

obtained from compression testing' One is

cranking speed;higherspeedgiveshigherpre.s-

rut" ."idingt and vice versa. With a small,

four-cylinder engine, t isn't likely that the bat-

tery will run down during a compresslon ests'

But if it does, ump the battery o anotherone o

maintain cranking sPeed.

Altitude will affect compressronreaorngs

even as it influences manifold-vacuum read-

ings. They will register ower values he higher

thEaltitude. Worn camshaft lobes can also

cause lower-than-normal readings' High-

oerformance camshafts, with their long-

durationprofiles, also give lower compress^ton

readings.This is because uchcamssacntrce

low-rpm breathing for improved high-rpm

breathing. Compression esting takes place at

crankingspeed-well below idle speed'

an ange rom 75 psi (pounds per square

over150psi. So,don'tbe ooconcerned

the iguresseemgenerally low' Trouble is

more ikely if only one or two cylinders

Remember,different compresslon testers

different eadings,so allow some eeway'

Double-checkyour findings with the 7570 ule:

A11 ylindersmust readwithin 757oof the high-

es t cylinder. So, if the highest eading s^l25

psi.mulr iply12 5 y 0.75 o get94 Therefore'

i f al l cyl inders ea d above94 psi. theyar e

acceptatle. Below that, consider them faulty'

Notice I said acceptable,not desirable' Itis

hardto set a wear imit and say anythingabove

is sood and all below are bad' In the example

ei;en, if a cyl inder ietded nl y 97 psi and-the

i"r, *.r. l2Oor 125psi. wouldbe waryof the

low cylinder.

To help determine he causeof low compres-

sion,do iwet testbysquirtinga teaspoon f oi l

into that cylinder. SAE 30W is fine' To de-

termine how many squirts it takes to make a

teaspoonget a teaspoonand fill it while count-

ing the squirts.Then squirtthe sameamountoI

oil into the cylinder. Justmake sure he oil can

is full so you don't squirt air into the cylinder'

Crank the engine two revolutions or so to

soread he oil. Retest he low cylinder' If com-pressioncomes up markedly, 40 psi or more,

ihe trouble is poor ring{o-bore sealing' A re-

builtl is needed o restore he lost clearances' f

compressiondoesn't increase much' about 5

psi, then the problem is probably with the

valves. It could also be pulled head studsor a

warped cylinder head.

You may notice a cylinder that takesa long

time to pump up. Usually' a cylinder will pr-o-

duce40 psi on the irst pistonstroke'another35

psi on tire next and so on. Problem cylinders

hay have rouble reaching40 psi and, instead,

incieaseby l0 psi at a time. If you crank them

Foputar diagnostic check is compressiontest. Screw-in tester is easiest to use'

atttrouglrubber'cone ype ikeone shown s

just as accurate'

HIGHERALTITUDE&

LOWERCOMPRESS]ONCompression eadingsare influenced y

altitudeand temperature. pecificationsor

compression alues are usuallybased.on

standard ay cnnditions: 4.7psratmospner-

ic pressure nd59Fat sea evel.Atmospnencpressureand temperature ecreaseas alll-

tude increasesabove sea level, so com-

pensate or thiswhen nterpretingompres-

sion-test esults.The chart supplies correction factors

(accountingor decreased ressure nd em-

oerature)or difterent ltitudes. us tmultlply

ihe specification alue for compression inpsi) by the factor or the engine'soperating

conditions.

Altitude (ft) Factor

1000200030O0

40005000600070008000

,9711.9428. 9 1 5 1

,8881.8617.8359.8106.7860

An acceptable ompressioneading f 125

psiat sea evelwould egisteress nDenver'

ioi e*impre. There,.a tabout 5000 ft ' the

equivalenicompression eading would,be

id S ps i X .8617 10 8 psi ' Th e cylinders

could be reading ow comp-ared ltn sea-

Lu"Lm"u.ur"tents, but ust ine or heactu-

al operating ltitude.

1 5



Leak-Down Testing-Although it's also ameasure of combustion-chamber sealins. aleak-downtest s more accurate han comJies-sion testing.Accuracy s improvedbeiausevariables affecting compression-test read-ings-those thathave no bearingon the sealing

capability of an engine-are eliminated.A leak-down tester uses an external air-

pressuresource.Testing is done with the en-gine stationary.Therefore, the test is not in-fluenced by cranking speed, valve duration,altitudeor excessiveoiling. If you arediagnos-ing a carbeforebuying it, a eak-downtest s anexcellent dea.

Leak-down estequipments expensive.So,unless ou do a lot of enginediagnosis, his sone est o farm out. Many tuneupshopscandothe test or you. The cost shouldbe minimal. Itis also a test that can be skipped most of thetime. A compressiontest gives an accurateenoughpictureofan engine'scondition90Zoof

the time. This is especially true if there is aburnedvalve, holed pistonor othercatastrophiccylinder damage.If the compression eadingsare baffling, however, a leak-down testerwilldefinitely help you makea decision.Of course,if you have access o a leak-downtester, skipth ecompressiones lan d est hecylinders i t irthe more accurate eak-down tester.

You'll need an air compressor a l/2-Hpmodel will do) and the leak-down tester f per-forming the test yourself. Start by readingtheinstructions hat came with the tester.Bring the# I cylinder to top deadcenter(TDC) of the itscompressionstroke. Check the engine timingmarks o makesure t's exactlyon TDC. If it's

slightly off, the engine witl kick over withoutwarningthe instantthe cylinder is pressurized.A good way to check for TDC is to insert along, thin screwdriver into the combustionchamber hrough the sparkplughole. With thescrewdriverontactinghepiston op. you ca nfeel when the piston is at the top of its stroke.

During the test, havea helperhold the crankwith a socket on the crank-pulley nut, gener-ator, alternator,or fan. This will keep the en-gine for turning over.

Next, install the hose adapter n the spark-plug hole, then connect he tester o the adapterand the ai r compressor. ompressed ii ispumpedto the cylinder while the tester moni-

tors how much air it takes to make uo forcyl inder eakage.Th e readout s in percentleakage.

Remember,hepistonmustbe at TDC of itscompression trokeso both valvesareclosed.Otherwise, eakagewill approach 007o as allthecompressed ir blows by an openvalve, orthe enginewill tum over. Once finishedwiththe first cylinder, disconnect he tester, rotatetheengine 80' to cylinder#4 and est t. Thentestcylinders#3 and, 2,by again otaring hecrank 180oeach ime.

Leakage or an engine in good condition is

1 6

Leak-down estingcan indicatemore aboutenginecondition han any other test. Thisunit s partof professional iagnosticester;othersare available s separate ools.Needfor air compressor,cost and more nvolvedtest procedure usually prohibit home-mechanic se. Farm his est out o getaccu-rateevaluationof enginecondition.

lOVoor less. The higher the leakagerate, theworse heproblem.A20Voleakage an ndicatea high-mileageengine,but doesn't normallywarrant a rebuild. A 30Va eakage is seriousenough for an engine overhaul or valve job.And, a9OVoeakagendicates erious amage,such as a badly burned valve, holed piston orthe like.

You canusually ell what's eakingby listen-ing to the enginewith the testerattached. f theexhaust alve s lenking,you canhear he hissof escaping air in the tailpipe. Leakage pastintake valves can be heardat the carburetororintake-airsensor.Bad-sealing ings andcylin-derscan be detectedat the oil-breatheror dip-stick holes.Pulledheadstudsmay causehiss-ing leaks between the cylinder heads andcylinders.A lengthofhose canaid istening nsome hassis y holding neen dat yourearindthe other where you suspect leakage: car-buretor, intake-air sensoror breather. Some-times leakage s evenly divided and hard toattribute to one source, both the rings andvalvesma ybe eaking. f so. r 'sa sureig n ofmultiple problems.

One way to spot a suspectedeaky exhaust

valve is to hook anHC/CO meterto the ailpipeand squirt somecarburetorcleaner nto the cyl-inder. Reconnect the leak-down tester andwatch the meter. It takesa minute for the leak-age o reach he meter, but ifthe exhaustvalveis leaking, even ust a little, the HC portion of

the meter will peg nstantaneouslyIf you useatuneupshop or the eak-down est, they shouldhave an HC/CO meter available. This testactually doesn't requirea eak-down ester,ustan adapter for the sparkplug hole and acompressed-airsource.

VALVE LIFTValve lift is the distance he valve is moved

off its seatby the camshaft.As the cam lobeswear, valve lift decreasesand the ensinedoesn't breathas well. Power s reducedandvalve train noise increasesbecause he valveclearance ncreaseswith cam and lifter wear.

If the diagnostic tests hus far indicateworn

engine nternals, there s little need o considervalve lift. You might as well get on withrebuildingthe engine,and nspect he camshaftand lifters directly.

On the other hand, if the engineseemswell-sealed at the valves and cylinders, but lackspower and has noisy valves that won't stay inadjustment,valve lift is likely your problem.

To understand he wear cycte, first considerhow camshaftsand lifters are made. At firstglance, the working surfaceof a lifter and thetop edge of a camshaft lobe look flat. Theyaren't. nstead, he ifter's bottom s convex,solts center protrudesmore than the edges.Thetop of the lobe is cut at a slight angle, so thatwhen the ifter restsagainst t, the contact pointis off-center. This makes the lifter rotatewitheach valve opening and spreadswear over thesurfaceof the lifter.

Problemsstartwhenthe ifter wearsa srooveinto itsconcave urface, r the cam obe'wearsflat. Then the ifter tendsnot to rotate,and wearconcentratesn one spot. This wearsthe lifterand especially the lobe very rapidly, until thelobe is considerably shorter than when new.The shorter the lobe, the less valve lift andhorsepower.

Increasednoise is part of the wear processbecausevalve clearance ncreasesas the lobeand lifter grind down. Frequent

valve adjust-mentsbecomenecessaryo keep noisedownand the valves adjusted. However, even fre-quent valve adjustments on't stop the wearonce it is started.They only reducethe valveclearance or the short time it takes he lobe towear down somemore.

It is possible to disable one cylinder byadjusting ts valves. That will provoke somemystery What happenss the ifter rotates ightaftera valveadjustment.o hewornspol s;olongerover heca m obe. nsteacl, partof thel i fterwhich sclose o original hickn-esss nowagainst he lobe. But because he valve was

adjustclearavalve

startedruns oI

If y

find it

adjustloosenengine

startsits lovnow, tl

and neIf th

needscam a

replacquired

timely

Chan



adjustedor the worn section, actual valveclearances zero and the lobe is holdins thevalve penal! rhe time. When the ensine isstarted.ompressionan'tbuildand heingine

runs n threecylinders.If you recheck he valve clearance,you'll

f ind t tighton rharcyl inder.which wa s iustadjustedonectly. So. a bit puzzled. youloosenheadjustment o specificationsand theengine uns fine. Then five minutes later itstartslackingawayas the dished ifter rotatesits low spot over the lobe again. No puzzlenow, heengine'scam and ifters are worn outandneed eplacing.

If the enginehas 50,000 or more miles andneeds valveadjustmentevery 500 miles, thecamand ifters are worn out and need to bereplaced. ompleteenginedisassembly s re-quiredo service he cam and lifters, so it'stimelyorebuild herestof theengine,as well.Chancesre he valvesand cylinders are worn

anyway, so endless valve adjustments areusually anotherclue that the engine needsanoverhaul.Measuring Valve Lift-Some VW special-

ists, like drag racers, use a dial indicator tomeasurevalve lift at the valve-springretainer.They can then determine if the cam lobe iswearingdown. Racer'scan't hearnoisyvalvesover open exhaust,and don't have ime to splitthe case o look at the camshaftbetween aces.Measuringvalve lift lets them determine hereis no camshaftwear;consequentty,hey don'thave to split the cases o determinethe cam'scondition.

If measuringvalve lift, you'Il need a dialindicator, someway to mount it near he valvespringsand enoughroom to fit the instrument.On somechassis, ike 914s, his measurementis out ofthe question nless he engine s out ofthe car. Note the space available for a dialindicator before considering measuringvalve

lift. Indicatormagneticbaseswon't attach oaluminumcylinderheads,but might mountonthe cooling shroudor exhaust.

Bring the indicator's plunger to bear on thevalve-spring retainer. Rotate the engine untilthat valve is completely closed. Zero the dialindicator, then rotatethe crank pulley until thevalve is completely open. Read valve lift di-rectly on the dial.

Remember. because you are measuringvalve lift, allow for the rocker-arm ratio andvalve clearance.Rocker-arm ratio w111dd tolift measuredat the cam lobe, valve clearancewill subtract. For a test of this kind, though,don't be concernedabout the absolute valvelift, but valve lift relativeto theother valves. Inother words, look for a valve that is liftineconsiderablyes s han tsneighbors.f a valviis lifting less than the others,

the cam is wornand will need to be replaced or reground.



EngineRemoval

Power rainon 914 s somewhatheavy,but maginepullingequivalent ackage enginewithall accessories, lutch, ransmission, ifferential nd coolingsystem)out of a Camarowithonlya floorjack!

Engineremoval and installationare impor-tantstepsn anyoverhaul.Haphazardlyemov-ing an engineguarantees eadaches uring in-stallation. t' s alsodangerous. little prepara-tion and caution before and during engine re-moval will reward you when installing yourrebuiltengine.

PREPARATION

Air-cooledVolkswagen ngines re ound nmany different ypes of chassis,but the samespecial tools are needed for all cars: a floorjack, jack stands, and,a piece of plywood.

Additionally, clean he enginebeforeworkingon t anddecidewhere o pull it . Containersorhardwaremust also be readie d.EngineCleaning-A dirtyengine s miserableto workon. Wrenches lip, asteners ideunderthe goo andgrime getsunderyour fingernails.Avoid theseproblemsby cleaning he enginebefore emoving t. Threemethods regeneral-ly available: teamcleaning, solventblastingand spray degreasing.Steam cleaning is for truly filthy engines-suchas an oil leakerdriven on dirt roads.Thecost s reasonable nd he ob takesabouta halfhour. Most service stationshave the equip-ment. If not, check with a tractor or heavy-

equipment hop.

1 8

Considerhaving only the bottom of the en-gine steamcleaned.Steamcleaning he top istoo messyas he hot solution s reflectedback atthe mechanicand s trapped atopthe enginebythe sheetmetal.

Solvent blasting uses compressed ir andsolvent to blow off the dirt. It works well gOVo

of the ime. Cost s comparableo steam lean-ing and practically any shop can do it. A thor-ough solventblasting akes about as long assteamcleaning.

Spray degreaser anbe usedat home f youhave a gardenhose. Typically, you warm the

engine,spray t with degreaser,et it setso thedegreaser an penetrate,hen hoseoff thecrud.Problem s, the stinky messends up on yourdriveway. Solve hat by doing the ob at a carwash. Use the high-pressurewater/detergentspray and eave he mess here.

Remember o cover he distributor,coil andcarburetorwith plasticbags or aluminum foilshaped o fit. Thesepartsmust be kept dry oryou'll have a hard time restarting he engine.With patience, his method works as well assteam leaning r solventblasting.Don't forgetto removethis waterproofingbefore driving.(Yes, t happens!)Lifting & Lowering Tools-To raiseandsup-

port he carduringengine emovaland nstalla-

Use g,ld lywheelto make widerfloorjacksad-dle. Wdd short length of pipe over gland-nutbore to secure flywheel in jack.

tion, use afloor jack andack stands.The loorjack is a hydraulicjack n a wheeledrame.ForVWs a l-ton version s adequate, ut a 1-1/2-ton ack is sturdierandusuallywill lift higher.Besides, fyou're planning o buy a floorjack,

you'll needa l-112-tonversion or lifting mostother cars.

Once the car is up, you must support t withjack stands.Never use any ack (bumper,scis-sors, screwor otherwise)as a stand.Jacksarefor raising and lowering, not.for supportingacar while you are underneath.

Ajack can ail, and f you are under hecarwhen it does, t could be fatal. Use two jackstands o hold up the rear of the car. Both thefloorjack andjack stands an be rented.Lookin the phonebook under Rentals.

A VW air-cooledengine s lowered fromilsraised chassiswith a floor iack. A balancedjacking point for lowering he engine s r ight

underthe oil strainer.You'll needa sizeablepiece of ll2-in. or thicker plywood to placebetween he engineand floor jack.

Besidesprotecting he engine rom gouges,the softplywoodgives he hardengine ndjacksurfaces omething o dig into. This makes heengine ess likely to slip off the jack's pad,making engine emoval saferanda lot easier.It's frustratingo pull on the engine,hoping oroll the engine/jackcombination oward you,only to have he ack stop and the engineslipoff.

For the same eason, ry not to removea VWengineon a dirt surface.The floor ack resistsrolling;it will sink nto hedirt nstead. venonvery hard packeddirt, little pebbles an chock

ffi

Supprwardqoncr

betwe

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ar with jackstandsany time it is raised.Placestands or-ol rear wheels on sturdy chassis component;set them on

or best oundation.On soft asphaltor dirt, placeplywoodtandand ground o preventsettling and tipping.

Labelallwire ndhoseconnections ith apeandpermanent arker.These abelsare your insurance or correctly nstalling onnectionsduring engine nstallation, o don't rely on memoryalone!

ack wheels,making engine movement aseries f barely controlled, backbreak-

grunts. f a dirt floor is all you have, lay afplywood down to roll the loorjack

keep you cleaner as you workhe car.

Consider hat you'll do with the chassisremove he engine. Once it's out,

he chassismeanspushingor towing.echassis ill be immobile for awhile, de-

n how fast you work. Threeweeks sStationarycarsattract vandals,

andlords,even the authorities in some

If youdon't havea dedicatedworking room,rentingspaceat a service station. Look inphone ook or a do-it-yourselfauto shopor

hop. f you are stationed at a militaryheyoftenhaveauto hobby shopsavail-

ith some of the larger ools.tOrganized-It's a trying ask o installan

lse removed. Who knowsll hose utsandboltsso?Well, pullingengine nd hrowing all the hardware n oneboxamountso the sameeffort. When yougetaround o installing he engine, you'll

memory can't make any order fromechaos.With the earlierBeetle, there aren't many

o remember, ut laterenginesd ifferent hassis an definitely ax thebest

aveyourself considerable roubleby getting severalcoffee cans

nd abeling hem.Use one or bell-ardware,another or heater ubing

dso on. Have the containers eadybefore

he engine,or you won't use hem.Get oll of masking r otherstout apeanda

permanent,waterproofmarkingpen. Or use aplastic label maker. Use these or labeling thevacuum and electr ical disconnections ou'll

make. Labeling disconnections is a criticalstep, so don't skip it!

There sn't enough oom in this book to listall the hose and wire diagrams or the variouschassis.Draw your own schematics fthe var-ious connectionso help at reassembly.t' s upto you to label and keep track ofthe electrical,vacuum, mechanical nd uel lines, hosesandcables.You'll thank yourself at installation.

ENGINE REMOVALWe'll examine engine removal chassisby

chassisbecauseof the different chassisair-cooledVWs are mounted n. Yet, the irst fewdisconnections fcomponents bout heenginearesimilar n all models.Battery-On all chassis,disconnect he bat-tery negative able irst, then emove he posi-

tive one.The battery sunder he earseat n theBeetle, Squareback nd Fastback.On the 41and 412 look under the driver' s seat. On theBus, KarmannGhia and914, the battery s onthe right side of the engine compaftment.

It's not essential, ut now is a good time tocompletely emove he battery or cle aningandcharging. t's aggravatingo try and startyourfiesh engine only to find the battery dead.Drain Oil-Now drain he oil. On Type I -3

engines, he drain plug is the largebolt in thecenter of the oil stainer. On the Type 4, thedrainplug s separaterom the strainer.Let theoil drain while you make he variouselectricalandmechanical isconnections. he Ionger he

oil drains, he essmessyou'll have aterwhenyou open the engine.

BEETLES & KARMANN GHIAS fiYPE 1)Air Filter & Housing-Open theengine overand remove the air filter. Earlier cars had oil-bath air filters with a minimum of hosesattached o them. On the Beetle, label and dis-connectany hoses, hen unscrew he clamp atthe air-filter

housingbase. Without tipping thefilter, lift it off the carburetorand set t aside.From August

'67,a cable is fitted to the

warm air flap on the filter inlet. The cable isconnectedo the engine hermostatand controlsengine nletair temperaturen responseo en-gine temperature.Disconnect t at the air filter.Remember,when handlingandstoringan oil-bath air filter, keep it upright, or oil will con-taminate he upperhalf of the ilter andspill outof the unit.

ln'73 a paper-element ir filter replacedheoil-bathunit. The paperelement s easily den-tified by its rectangular hape. ts hoseattach-ments are different, but no problem. Label

them with masking ape and your permanentmarker.You don't have to know exactly what the

hosedoesyou are emoving, us t mark he irsthose1 and where t attacheswith a 1, too. Thenextdisconnection etsa 2 andso orth. Duringengine nstallational l you'll have o do is con-nect he ls to ls, 2s to 2s and so on.

KarmannGhia air filtersare mounted o theright of the engine. Unclamp and remove hefilterto-engine and hot-air hoses.Next, undothe warm-aircontrol lap cable rom its arm onthe ilter inlet. Labeland emove he crankcasebreather ose, hen unlatch he filter assemblyfrom its mountingbracketand remove t from

the enginecompartment.Fuel-Injection Air Filter-Undo the four

1 9



Tipping ir ilterany more han hiswillsloshoil nside gainst ppersection; t will also drain from under lid. Clean ilter canister andchangeoil before ilter s installed n rebuiltengine.

Needle-nose liershold throttlecableand linkagewhilecable sdisconnected. on't oosen inchboltagainst able ension, ryou'llkink cable.Always hold inkagestationarynstead.

andhos

connec

tra fuel

installaThe

push-oother d

brownihave n

out of

ticallyconnecSometiend. Ol

TheFollowlabelinl

and ten

be pusMak,

wires l

other,them.and att

Alsoneret

Get th

Throtttle p

diaphrunderpositio

but it i

lowerihousiwill clRear I

of thepartm

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Be

disenrear el

earlYt

screwLat

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Thendsattac

UnSCfl

screRais

until

After throttle cable is removed from linkage,pull cable guide from fan housing. Some-times a hose clamp s placedon guide n frontof fan housing as a retainer. lf so, just leaveguide in place.

clipsaround he air filter housing.This releases

the air filter housing cover and the paper airfilter element. Now disconnect he multiple

wire plug onthe intake air sensor,which is thecast-aluminum ox. Be carefu l when pulling

back the rubber boot and tugging on the con-nector.Neverpull by the wires.

Next unscrew herubberboot's clamp at theother end of the air sensor.Remove the trvo aircleanermounting nutson eithersideofthe hood

hinge and ift the air sensorand filter housi ngoff as a unit. With the sensorout of the way,

unclamp and remove he rubber air duct. Thereare several reatherines ntersecting ith thisduct. Mark and remove them.

Carburetor-Mark and remove he automaticchoke heating element and fuel-cutofT wires.

20

Also remove the fuel line and throttle cable.

The throttlecable s removedby unscrewing runbolting the clamping bolt and pushing the

cable toward the fan housing. Pull t he cableguide out of the fan housing and set t aside.Later, when the engine s paftially out of thechassis,you can pull the cable out the fanhousing he rest of the way.

A lot of throttle cable guides have beenclamped ehind he an housing o hold a home-madegrommet. n th is case,you canpush hethrottle cable nto the guide now, and pull itcompletelyout when lowerin g the engine.

Electrical Connections-Loo k under he dis-tributor for the oil-pressure endingunit. Dis-

connect and mark its single wire. Disconnectthepositivecoil wire. Lookon thecoil, near he

terminals or a * sign f you don'tknow which

is thepositivewire. The negativewire also unsto the distributor,but it's not the right one.

Generator/Alternator-Mark and remove

the three wires on the generator.The voltage

regulator s mounted on the generator n'66

Beetles. n that case, emove he threeslip-on

connectlons.If the car has an altemator, remove the

multiple-wireconnector.The voltage e gulatoris mounted separately on

'73and early

'74

alternators. After that, the regulator is in-tegrally mountedon top of the alternator.

Fuel Injection-Unfor tunately, VW's Boschfuel injectionaddsa lot of little steps o engineR&R (Removaland Replacement). ou have

extramarkingand emovingof necessary ires

Generatordisconnections re normally hree wires right on top of the generator.However,slip-on onnectors re usedon generator-mountedoltage egulators ndalternators.



and oses.akeyour ime when abeling hese

connections.ou'll be reconnectingheseex-

tra uelsystemwires andhosesduring engine

in$allation.Theelectrical isconnections re pull-off,

push-onlugs.Most plugs separate asily,but

other on't. This is especially rue of those

brownish,ectangularonnectors. ou usually

have o choicebut to grasp he wires leading

outof this type of connector and pull. Prac-

ticallyevery ime you succeedand the spade

connectionnside the connector separates.

Sometimeshe wire pulls out of its terminal

end.Of course, epair he wire in t hat case.

The uel-injectionwiring is in a harness.

Followt around heengine, disconnectingand

labeling iresat the coil, injectors,crankcase

and emperatureensors.Then the hamesscan

bepushed side.Makesureyou follow the harness.Some

wiresead rom one side of the engine to the

other,and there's no reason to disconnect

them.Only emovea wire if it leaves he engine

and ttacheso the chassis.Also emovehe wo fuel lines:one supply,

one eturn.Be sure o correctlymark their flow.

Gethem eversed nd he enginewill not start.

ThrottlePositioner-If theenginehasa hrot-

tle positioner, you'll see an aluminum

diaphragm-and-cylindernit sticking out from

under he carburetor.Most manuals say the

positioner ustcome off for engine removal,

but t isn'tso.Just eave t alone.Later, when

loweringhe engine,you'll have to tilt the fan

housingorward. his aises hepositioner o t

wil lclearhe ea rbodywork.

RearEngineCover Plate-Between the rear

of theengineand the rear of the engine com-

partments the rear engine cover plate. This

piece f sheetmetal s part of the cooling sys-

tem,whichworks by sealing he top of the

enginerom air passing nder t.

Becauseheenginemust be slid to the rear o

disengaget from the transaxle nput shaft, the

rear ngine-coverlate must be removed.On

early40-HPengines,merely remove the fbur

screwsnd ift out the plate.

Laterengines ave two largehoses eading

from he an housing o the heat exchangers.

Completelyemove hesehosesand their rub-

bergaskets t the cover plate end. Then un-

screwand removethe small separateshroud

over he crankshaft ully. (Unlessyou have a

fuel-injectedngine. They don't have this

small late.)Finally, remove the two covers

aroundheheat-riserubes eading o the intake

manifold.

Thehealriser ubecoversare at he outboard

ends fthe earengine overplate.Fourscrews

attachach ne.With those artsgone,you can

unscrewhe rear enginecover-plateattaching

screws ndpull the plate out of the car.

RaiseCar-Use the floor jack to raise he caruntil he ensine s abouta vard in the air. The

These are clean aft hoses connecting fan

housing and heat exchangers. Just slip hemofi at both ends and set aside. Replace ortape-repair damaged hoses.

rearbodyworkmustbe high enough o clear he

top of the fan housing.Put the ack under he

framejust forward of the ransaxle,never nder

theengineor transaxle.You cancrack he case

by jacking under he engine.Immediatelyplace he ack stands o suppofi

thechassis, ndslowly ower hecaronto hem.

Check the stability of the car on the standsby

gentlyshaking t from side o side.VWs have o

be raised a lot to get the engine out, which

meansmost ack stands re aised o their high-

est, and lea st stabLe,position. Be sure your

standsare stout andstablebeforegettingunder

the car.Heater Cables-At the front and sides of the

Loosen small bolt on heater-control valve

arm to free heater cables. When cable andlock bolt are hopelessly frozen, snip cableand buy new ones.

engine you'll find the two heater-control

valves.Remove heheater-contr ol ables rom

their everson thecontrolvalves.A bolt passes

through he everandcableend and snuttedon

the other side.

Use two wrenches o remove the bolt and

nut, hen he cablewill pull free.There s alsoa

small cylinder in the lever which the cable

passes hrough. When you remove he cable,

thecylinder should all free, so beready or it.

Alternately, you have extra stepsf theheatercontrolshave ustedshutand henbeenpeened

over by rocks. Freeing the cable end requires

rustpenetrant, liers o grip the ever, he usual

two wrenchesand nventive anguage.

Remove ear sheet-metalray so the enginecan easilysliderearward.Follow ray's eadingedge o find ts attachment crews.

21



Heaterductsare arge lexiblehoses eading

forward romheatexchangers. hisonewas

clamped, ut often hey clipon the exchang'ers and easilY lideoff.

Onceyou have he cables ree, pull the large

flexible hoses off the heater-control valves'

Push the hosesaway from the engine so they

won't get torn as the engine s lowered.

Fuel Line-Above the left heater-control

valve is the fuel line connection from the fuel

tank. Slip off the flexible line and use a pencil

or bolt to plug t. If you usea bolt, makesure t

has an unthreadedshoulder. A fully threadedbolt can let gasoline leak past through the

threads.Some mechanics pinch the line shut

with lockingpliers, henpull it off. It's fastand

clean,but I don't like squeezinguel hose hat

hard.Bellhousing Nuts-Remove the two 17mm

hex nutsandwashersat he ower cornersof the

bellhousing. Thesenutsare hreadedontoapair

of studs hat fit into the transaxle.Don't worry

about the engine falling. There are two more

bolts still attachedon top of the engine'

WARNING: If the lower bellhousing

fastenersare nuts and bolts, remove them onLy

after checking that the upper bolts are still in

place nd he loorjack s setup o supportheengine.The enginecan al l on you fthe upper

bolts aren't in place.

The owerbellhousing utsmay bevery ight

on their studsbecauseof rust or impact dam-

age. If so, the stud may unthread from the

transaxle,not the nut from the stud.There'sno

problemwith this, sodon't worry about t. You

can separatehe stud and nut later andreinstall

the stud.Automatic Stick Shift (Auto-Stick)-A few

extra isconnectionsrenecessau n carswith

the Auto-Stick. Two ATF (Automatic Trans-

missionFluid) lines need disconnecting.One

line runs to the ATF tank, the other to the oil

pump.

22

Bepreparedor spillagewhendisconnecting

tuei tin'e.A bolt stuffedand clamped n flex-ible hose will stop fuel tank from siphoningdry.

The lines aresteelbraidedandusehigh pres-

surehydraulic fittings, like on brake ines. Use

two tubing wrenches, also called flare-nutwrenches,on the fittings. If you don't have

tubing wrenches,a regularopen end will do,

but take extracare o not roundoff the hex. Be

ready for ATF to pour out of the line from the

tank. Have a pan underneathand work fast.

Plug the disconnectedittings so they won't

leak, and so dirt can't enter the transmission

system.The bestplug is a pipe fitting that has

beensoldered,brazedor welded shut, but you

probably don't have one laying around' Those

small plastic capsnew brake mastercylinders

are shipped with work well, if you have the

right size. Aluminum foil wrapped several

timesaround he fitting and securedwith a hose

clamp works, too.

BecauseAuto-Stick transaxleshavea torque

converterbetween he engineand clutch, there

are four driveplatebolts to remove.The drive-

plate is bolted at its center to the crankshaft,

like a flywheel. At i ts outeredge t is bolted o

the torqueconverler.Thesebolts areaccessiblethrough a hole in the bottom backside of the

bellhousing.Fuel-injected ngines avea rub-

ber plug in the access ole; carburetedengines

have an open hole.

Someof these oltsare8mm, 6- or l2-point.

Make sureyour socket s clean,not roundedoff

and ined up straightwith the bolts. Thesebolts

are small and will break or round off if not

treatedwith care. Have a helper rotatethe en-

gine with the crankshaftpully while you watch

the access ole. Stoprotationwhen the bolt is

squarelycenteredn the hole. Remove he bolt,

then have your helper rotate the engine 90"

where another bolt will appear in the hole.

Continueuntil youhave emovedal l four bolts.

Lower bellhousingnuts are higherupbe'tween transaxleand engine hanyoumight

think. Still, they are easy to get at' Thisdrivetrains a candidate or steamcleaning'

If you don't removethe driveplatebolts' he

toroueconverterwill slide out of the transaxle

with the engine. That's fine if the engines

seizedand you can't rotate it to gain access0

the bolts. But the transaxle oil seal will be

ruined if it's necessaryo pull the torquecon-

verter with the engine. Replace he oil sealf

that's the case.More Auto-Stick disconnectlonsare neces-

sary inside the engine compartment.Lookon

the firewall, to the left of the ignition coil, to

find thecontrol valve. Mark anddisconnectthe

electr icaleads. nvestigatehe vacuum oses

to see which ones must come off. Those hat

don't go o theengine anbe eft alone. he est

need to be labeled and disconnected.

Support Engine-Get the piece of plywood

and set t on the ack saddle.Then roll the ack

underthe engineand raisethe saddleuntil it is

just carrying he engineweight.Don't if t it too

muchor you'll bin d theengineon thebellhous-

ing studsand have trouble sliding it off them

Upper Bellhousing Bolts-Slide out fromun-

der the car and turn your attentlon o removlng

the upper engine-to-transaxlefasteners.All

manual transaxlecars through'70 have bolts

and nuts at the upper bellhousing. Startingn'71, all carsuse wo boltsbut only onenut'At

the right side s theusualnut andbolt assembly'

but the eft sideusesonly a bolt. It threadsntoa

special round nut pressednto the enginecase.

This is necessary ecause he offsetoil cool-

er used rom'7 I on doesn't eaveenough oorn

to get at anut from the engine side.Auto-Stick

cars in'70

use nuts on studs, so their bell-

housingshave our studs: wo at bottom, twoat

top. In'71

the Auto-Stickswent with the wo

bolt, one nut fastening.

Whatever the attachmentmethod,you need

At first,this far,compat

to remmemb

and he

accesboth nu

the bolthough

Hav

bolts.

enginebind th

work,'

Vise-wrenclLowerout, tt

havet

floor.comp

Sta

the inworki

cleart

left to

Onjack.

wardstantlwire

catchsnag

Wi

the f

on th

This



At irst,enginemustcome backand down n small,quicklyalternating teps.once you getthisfar, slow,smooth owering sallthat'sneeded.K'eep n eye on hoises,'wiresndenginecompartmenteal.

toremovehe upperbellhousing asteners.Re-member.theut s re n heengine ompartmentand hebolt headsareon the transmissionside,accessiblenly from under the car. With luck,both utswill comeoff without anyoneholdingthebolts from under the car. More typicallythough.he bohswil l turn.

Have ourhelpergetunder hecar o hold thebolts. f no helper is handy, try pulling theengineaway from the transaxle. That mightbindheboltsso heywon't turn. f thatdoesn'twork,you'll have o attacha box end wrenchorVise-Grip liers to the bolt heads, hen let thewrenchurn against he body.LowerEngine-Once the upper fastenersareout, heengine s ready o lower. It's best ohavewo people or this ob: one o manage hefloor ack and another to eyeball the enginecompaftmento watch for hangups.

Startby pulling back on the floor jack untilthe nput shaft clears the clutch. If you areworkingon an Auto-Stick, the driveplatewillclearhe orqueconverter ight away. All that'sleft o do is clear the bellhousing studs.

Once he engine has disengaged, ower thejack.Continue o pull the engineand ack rear-wardwhile slowly lowering the jack. Con-stantlymonitor the engine so it won't snag awireor cableon the way down. If the enginecatchesn something, stop the jack, clear thesnag ndcontinuedown.

Watch or the throttle cable as it oulls fromthe anshroud.Steady heenginew tironehandon he an shroudand the other on the muffler.This s another good reasonto have a helper

move the ack, you'll haveyour hands ull withthe engine.

On'70

and ater engineswith a throttle posi-tioner, you must tip the engine to clear thebody. The top of the fan housingneeds o betipped toward the firewall so the throttle posi-tioner can get past the rear body panel. Alter-nately, you could remove the carburetor andthrottle positioner. Removal requires a verythin, specially bent box-end wrench if you dothis with the engine in the car.

With Auto-Stick transaxles,once he engineis out, run a braceacross he bellhousine o holdthe torque converter. A simple piecJ of flatmetal with a hole in it will do. Use one of thetransaxle studs and nuts to secure the brace.Without this brace, the torque converter canslip out of the transaxle,be damagedand ts oilseal ruined.

BUS & TRANSPORTER (TYPE 2 & 4)

Two sections are necessary to examineremovingBus enginesbecause71 andearlierBusesuse heuprighffan Beetleengineand 72

and later Busesuse the Type 4 engine. Earlystyle Bus enginesare one of the eisiest VWpowerplants o drop: acoupleofdisconnectionsand it practically falls out of the chassis. Thelaterengine s moredifficult, but not overly so.Early Bus (Pre-'72)-Start with the air fitter.Up to '68,

simply remove the crankcasebreather,hot-air hosesand unclamp the filterhousingat he carburel.or. n

'68-70models,

disconnect he hot-air flap cable, but the'71

versionhas no cable. Don't tip the oil-bath air

filters when removing them.Disconnect Wires, Cables, Hoses-Discon-nect the distributor, coil, generator, oil-pressuresenderand carburetorwires. Read heType 1 section if you need more help withthese. Label the disconneuiors. Undo thethrottle cableat the carburetorand push it for-ward throughthe an housingas ar as t will go.On '70-71

Buses, disconnect he vacuumhoses t the hrottle ositioner.Engine-Plate Screws-Unscrew the l0 rearengine-platescrews and lift out the plate. Sixare n the left- andright-forward comersof theplate. The other four are in the rear corners,mounted vertically on the plate's rear face.

An optional method is to continue rearwardand remove the rear bumper and body panel.With thoseout of theway theenginecanbe slidstraightback out of the chassis.Bellhousing Bolts-Now reach way to thefront of the engine compartmentand removethe two upper bellhousingbolts. You'll belooking at the nutted end of the bolts frominside he enginecompartment.On a '71

Bus,only the right upperbolt is accessible rom thetop. The other upper bolt must be removedfrom underneath.

Heater-Control Cables-It's time to go un-derneathanyway, so get under the engine anddisconnect he heater-controlcablesand hoses.You shouldn't have to raise the chassis eryhigh, as Busesstand pretty tall. In fact, youmight not want to raisethe chassisnow, butwait until the engine s ready o comeout. Thenthe chassishas o go up so the fan housingwill

slide under the rear bodywork.More Cables & Fuel Hose-Pull the throttlecable all the way free of the fan housing, thenloop it out of the way. Slip off the starter sole-noid connectionsand removeandplug the lex-ible fuel hose.The fuel line is on the eft, and tis not clamped. t's just a slip oint.

Transaxle-Support the transaxle with asecond floor jack or prop it up with woodblocks. The Bus chassis s so tall, you mighthave to add a wood block to the supportingjack. With the transaxlesupported, emovethetwo owerbellhousing uts.On

'71Buses, ow

remove the left upper bellhousingbolt, whichdoublesas a bolt for the startermountins.

Lower Engine-Place the floor ack and ply-wood under the engine. Just barely take upsome engine weight with the jack, then dis-connect the rear crossmember.There is onevertical bolt at each end of the crossmember.Remove them and the engine s readyto comeout.

Pull the engine and floor jack rearwarduntilthe clutch is clear of the transaxle nput shaftand the bellhousing studsare clear of the en-gine. Then ower the enginewhile guiding it bythe generatorand exhaust. Have your helperwatch for wire and hose snass on the wavdown.

23



Type3 air filter removalstarts with hoses. lt's usuallybest to dis.connecthosesso they lift otf with filter.

early Busground, yplace wo

FASTBINOTCH

AirFilteoil drainiair filtersduring reunscrew

canister,hot-air

elbow bcarburet

breather

Filtersnuts ove

center. Uair contnfilter. Sburetors

fore remthe lockn

only get tJustpop

screwdriAir fil

only theremoved

remaininlabel the

moved,

move thElectric:the elecpressure

injectedthe vario

The frleft-rearcomes rconnecticasesenperature

Also renpressurewall. Lal

ing themcorrectly

Checwith duderswi tof th e cfoul the tso unscOi l Dipclamp aThis s htube and

coolingnectorb'Ihrottle

I.ateBus(Post-'72)-Removing thisengine sbasically he sameas dropping he early Busengine, but thereare more disconnectionsomake on the Type 4 engrne.Air Filter-Remove the air filter. On dual_carbureted ngines, lip open the clips at thecarburetorsnd at th e [i l ter 's centersection.Lift of f the op half of the ilter andset t aside.Keep t upright.If not storedupright, residualoil will drain into the upperhalf of the filter and

contaminatet. Unclampandremove he reshand hot air hoses rom the filter bottom half.Thenunclip t at ts bottomedgeand ift it out.

A paper-elementilter is used on'j3_74

carbureted ngines,and t is removed ike theoil-bath ype.

.Fuel-injectedengineshave a different paper

element ilter. It is best emovedasa unif withits intakeair sensor.Startby disconnecting llhoses.he nunclippinghe cover.Remove hecover and paperelement.

Locate he intakeai r sensorat the left. lt isthe aluminumbox with the cast-ingrid work.Locate he elecrr ic onnecror lug. li p of f it sprotective oot, andcarefullypull out thecon_

nector. Unclamp the large S-shaped ubberhose rom the ai r sensor nd remove he airfilter body and nt:Lke ensor osether.Electr icalConnections- W th abel ne mate_rials n hand. disconnecthe electr ical eatlsfrom the distributor,alternator egulator,oil_pressuresender, and fuel injectors or car_burelors. s hecasema ybe .Follow hewirinsharnessesve r th e engine o find al l th e l islconnections.At the distributor, remove thelead to the fuel-injection triggering contacts.It's attached ear hebottomof thedistributor.Throttle Cable& Vacuum Hoses-Undo thethrottle able rom hecrossbar r at he hrottlebody.Get he cablestarledhrough ts guide n

24

the front engine plate. Later, you can com-pletelypull it through rom undemeath. f thecar s anautomatic ransmission odel, emovethe vacuumhose rom the ntakemanifold. Oncarburetedmodels, he hose s attached o thebalance ube. Fuel-injectedmodels have thehosesattachedo the ntakeair distributor. Theintake air distributor s the black. sheet-metalsection n the centerof the intake system.Coil & More Hoses-Look near hecoil or an

inline useholder.Disconnecthiswire(it's forthe backup ighrs)at the fuse holder.The en-gine may also have a temperature sensormounted in the upper right engine compart-ment . f so,d isconnectts w i re.

Take out the ignition coil and remove thehose eading o thecharcoal ilter. Thecharcoalfilter is the can suspendedrom the upperrightceiling of the enginebay. On ceLrburetedn-gines here s a hosemounted o the top of theleft carburelor;emove t.

All '12-13 engines, lu s 74swithautoma-

tic transmissionsavea vacuumadvance utofTvalve mounted near the blower motor. Dis-connect heelectrical ndvacuum eads rom t.

On all chassis, emove he two largediameterblowerhoses.

Oi l Filler-As on Type 3s, remove the oi lfiller bellows and dipstick. Then set aboutremoving he rearengineplate,which s in twopleceson the late Bus. Take of f the risht rearplate irsr. rhen rhe lefr rear .Th c lelt olarewraps round heengine id eand uns orwardali tt le,so t sn'tamirror mage ftherightrearplate.Automatic Transmission-This causes omeextrawork. First, remove he ATF filler pipenuts, rotate he pipecounterclockwise nd pullit out.Then emove hedriveplare-to-converterbol l s .On h is hass is .hese ol t r r e ccess ib le

througha hole in the bellhousing rom insideth eengine ompanmenl. oo k under heplayti c plug n th eupper el i mounring lange reaof the case.Gravel Guard-Before getting all the wayunder he engine, emove hegravelguard ronrunderthe rearbumper. Take out four boltsandthis thin bent strip will come off.More Cables& Fuel Hoses-Now slideuo othe ront of the engineand disconnect heheatercablesand hosesat the heater-control alves,Pull the accelerator able al l the wav throushthe rontengineplateandput t out oi thewav.Disconnectndplug he uel ines ro m he uejpump on carburetedengines,or pressureeg_ulatorof the fuel-injectedmodel. Look on hefront right of the engine or the fuel lines.Transaxle-Support the transaxlewith a ackor wood blocks. Now raise he iack andolv-woodassembly gainst heengine.Set hejaiksnug against he ensine, and remove he wolorverbellhousing uts.Thengo to the earandremove the crossmember. Remove the threeboltsat theeachendof the crossmember hichthreaddirectly nto he rame.When hose oltsareout, the engine s ready o come out.Lower Engine-Pull the ack back until theengrne lears he ransaxle,hen ower t outofthe engine compaftment.Watch fbr hangupsand guide the engine so it won't fall off thejack. You definitelyneeda helperwith a heavyType4 engine.

Fi t a braceacross he torque converter nautomatic ransmissionransaxlesmmediatelyafter emoving he engine.Se epage22 in th ipreviousType I section br the easonsor this.

Once the engine is out, check the rubbertransaxle mounts on Buses without rearcrossmembers. eak, mushymountsarecitedas a prime reason

he cases rackedon these

Smaff,sifverubestickingup romBusexhaustpipe soxyge sensor.AvoroKnocktnghis somewhatdelicateand expensive part when



early uses.f the transaxlesagsalmost to theground,ou know the mountsare useless.Re-placewom transaxlemounts.

FASTBACK, SQUAREBACK &NOTCHBACK (TYPE 3)Air Filter-With the batterydisconnected ndoildraining,emove he air cleaner.All Type 3air iltersare oil-bath units, so don't tio themduringemoval. n single-carburetedngines.unscrewhe wing nut in the centerof the filtercanister,lus the air intake bellows from thehot-aircontrol box. Disconnect the intakeelbow etween he filter and carburetorat thecarburetor. ark and disconnect he crankcasebreatherose.

Filters n dual-carbureted ngineshavewingnutsover each carburetor, plus one at front-

center. nclamp he hot-air hose rom the hot-air controlbox and remove the box with thefilter. Snap the throttle linkage off the car-buretorsnd he center-mountedbellcrank be-fore emoving he air filters. Don't fiddle withthe ocknuts nd od endsof the inkage, you'11onlyget hecarburetors ut of synchronization.Just op he od endsoff the ball socketswith ascrewdriver.

Air filters on fuel-injected engines requireonly the intake elbow and several hoses beremoved.The elbow is clamped and theremainingoses reslip ons, bui rememberolabelhemduring removal. With all hoses e-moved,unscrew he center wing nut and re-

moveheunit.Store n a levelposition.Electrical Connections-Label and removethe electrical leads at the carburetors, oil-pressureender,generatorand coil. On fuel-injected ngines, emovethe wiring harnessatthevariousconnectionson the ensine.

Th e uel njecrionEC U mounti inside heleffrear nner fender, and the wiring harnesscomesrom thatside. Follow the harnesso theconnectionst thedistributor, injectors, crank-case ensors nd grounds, cylinder-headtem-perature ensors,and intake air distributor.Alsoremove he vacuum hose from the fuelpressureensor n the elt engine ompartmentwall. Labeleach hoseand wire before remov-

ing hemso you'll be able to reconnect hemconectly.

Checkhe uel shut-off solenoidson ensineswithdualcarburetors. heseare small c-ylin-derswitha wire mountedon the outboardsideof thecarburetor.They usually catch on andfoul hebodyworkwhen the engine s lowered,s0unscrewhem from the carburetors.Oil Dipstick-Remove the dipstick, henun-clampand remove the oil filler rubber boot.This s heaccordionpiecebetween he dipsticktube ndbody.Also unclamp nd remove hecooling irbellows.This s thebig rubbercon-nector etweenhe engineand rearbodywork.Throttle Cable-Disconnect the throttle

Intake and dipstick bellows are two Type 3 &4 disconnections. Completely remove intakebellows at left to avoid cutting it when engineis slid back during removal.

cable. With a single carburetor his is done atthe carburetor. On dual-carburetor engines,disconnect the cable at the throttle linkasecrossbar. uel njection hrortle inkage s un-done at the throttle body, which is part of theintake air distibutor. That's the sheet-metalcenter section of the intake manifold.Fuel Line-Remove andplug the fuel line. Onfuel-injected ngines, he disconnection houldbe made on the left and, ight fuel manifulds.The fuel manilblds are the metal sections offuel ine r ightabove he injectors.

The rubber fuel line coming from the leftfront of theengine compartmentand running tothe left fuel manifold is the uel inlet line. Thefuel lines then connectto the injectors via themanifold. Another line leadsoff the backof theleft manifold and runs to the other side of theengine. It joins the right fuel manifold, andfinally runs orward, out of the enginecompart-ment throughthe rearsheetmetal. This last ineisthefuel return line. It returnsexcess uel tothe uel tank. The entirecircuit or U offuel linesis called hefuel ring.Bellhousing Bolts-Finish the opsidechoresby removing he two upperbellhousingbolts.You may needa helperunder hecar o hold the

bolt heads.On'71

and later engines, he leftbolt threads into a special nut permanentlyattachedto the case. Remove this bolt fromundemeath.

Anotherway of doing his s to wait until theengine s on its way down. Thenyou cangetatboth sidesof the upperbellhousing olts romthe op. Be carefulnot to lower the engine oofar or you'll damage he transaxlemounts.

There s supposedo be an enginemountattached o the fan housing on cars without acrossmember.t doesn'tprovidemuchsupport,soa ot of owners eave hemoff. Two boltsandit's in hand. If nothingelse, t must be off toremove he engine.

Wiringalwaysseems o be inyour way. OnType 3s, pick up rear mat and store wiresunderneath.

Raise Car-Raise the rear of the car 3 ft andsupport it with jack stands. Undo the heatercontrol-box cable connections and stow thelargediameterair hosesout of the way. Pull thethrottle cable through the front engine coverplate and gently oop it out of the way. Don'tkink the cable or the throttle will be sticky.Disconnectand plug the fuel return line on theright side of the engine f you didn't get it fromthe op. On'72 Type3s,disconnectheexhaustgas ecirculation (EGR) wire from its transmis-sion switch.

On cars with an automatic ransmission,un-bolt the driveplate from the torque converter.Unlike the Auto-Stick transmission, he fullautomatic transmission has only threedriveplate-to-converterolts. They are acces-sible through a hole in the fronfbottom ofthebellhousing.Also on the automatic ransmis-sion, slip off the vacuum hose at the balancepipeanddisconnecthe kickdown-switchwire.

Because he crankshaft pulley nut is in-accessible n Type 3s, usea stoutscrewdriveragainst he ring gear teeth to rotatethe engine.Reachthe ring gear teeth through the bolt ac-cesshole.

Support Engine-Disconnect the lower bell-

housing uts, henplace he loorjack under heengine.Don't forget he plywood cushion.Ondouble-jointed-axle ars, support he ransaxlewith anotherack or wood blocks. Thensliderearwardand unbolt the enginecrossmember.Undo he wo horizontalboltsat eachendof thecrossmember hich connect he crossmemberto i ts rubbermounts.

Don't unbolt he vertical ubbercushion-to-bodyboltsor the crossmemberto-e ngineolts.The rubbermountsarecentered y their mount-in gbolts. fyou undo hese olts, ou' l l have orecenter he engineduring installation.Lower Engine-Now you are eady o pull theenginebackand ower t. Watch or hangups n

25



lf heaterductswon'tpulloff, they are heldby

clamps.Oil and dirt can combine o camou-flage heseconnections.

Automatic ransmissions avea vacuumdis-connectionunder eft axle flange. t's prob-ably just as easy to pull off this hose attransmission s at engine.

Bellhousingand driveplate hardware areaccessible hrough windows in automatictransmissionellhousing.

26

the way down, and steady he engine so itdoesn't al l of f the ack. Brace he orquecon-verterso it can't fall out of the transaxleand bedamaged. A metal tab nutted to one of thebellhousing studs works

fine. Wire up thetransaxle n double-jointed-axlear sso yo ucan move the chassis.

4ru4r2(TYPE )Engine removal in the Type 4 is roughly

similar o dropping he 72and aterBusengine

becausehe ysharehe sameengine.bu t thereare severalnotable differences.Air Filter-With the batterydisconnectedandoil draining, begin the engine bay dis-connections. Start with the air filter. Removethe fresh air and crankcasebreatherhoses.Oncarburetedengines,unclip the upper filter halfat the carburetorsand center section, then Iift

off the upper half. Now unclip the bottom halfand emove t. Fuel-injection air filters need hecenterwing nut undoneand he filter removed.Before '72

all 4l1l4l2 filters were oil-bathtype; post-'72shave paperelements.Ducts, Wires & Cables-Remove the dip-stick and oi l f i l ler bellows.Unclampand re-move the cooling air intake bellows. Take offany ducting for the heaterblower motor. Dis-connectand remove the ignition coil, then theoil-pressure sender lead and throttle cable.Push he throttle cable hrough the front enginepanel.

Voltage Regulator-Pull the plug connectorfrom under the voltage regulator. It is mounted

on the right front side of the engine compart-mentand the connectorcomesup to the regula-tor from the bottom. Use a mirror to see hisconnectlon.

Fuel-Injection Connections-Label and dis-connect the fuel-injection leadsat the engine.Follow the wiring harnessover the engine tofind the connections.They are at the intake airdistributor, ignition distributor, injectors, caseground,plus the emperature ensors t thecaseand heads. Be sure you label all discon-nections. Reassemblywill be so much easier,and the engine will operatecorrectly, too.Automatic Transmission-Remove the threedriveplate bolts from inside the engine com-

partment.Look on the left engine-case erticalflangefor a round plasticplug. Pry out the plugwith a screwdriver to expose the driveplateunderneath.Rotate the engine to expose thedriveplateboltsone at a time. Rotate heenginewith a wrench on the cooling fan mountingbolts or by simply grasping the fan in yourhand. This task is much easierwith the soark-plugs emoved.

Remove the transmission dipstick and bel-lows section f the iller tube.Theseparlspro-trude from the forward left sheetmetal in theengine compartment.Disconnect the vacuumhose rom balancepipe. Next, remove two up-per engine mounting bolts from bellhousing.

DisconnectType 3 crossmemberswhere

crossmembermeets engine mount, notwheremountmeetsbody. f mounts redis.connectedat chassis, hey will have to bealignedat engine nstallationo keepenginestraight n compartment.

Throttle linkage on Type 4 uses a clip, springand unusually shaped cable end. Pop clip oflwith screwdriver (don't lose it), and pullpieces apart.

Manual Transmission-An unusual desisnfeature f the Type4 manual ransaxleequirisan extra step in engine removal. Because he

differential is between he engineand ransmis-sion, a driveshaftruns forward from the clutchto the transmission.The front of the driveshaftlooks and functions the sameas an input shafton other transmissions,except t is longer thana normal input shaft. To removethe engine hedriveshaft must be unlocked and moved for-ward in the car 4 in. (l00mm).

Moving Driveshaft-To reach he driveshaft,remove the rear seatcushion. Under the cush-ion is an accesspanel;remove it to expose hefront of the transaxle. Find the round, screw-inplug, about2-ll2-1n. n diameter.Unscrew heplug. Inside he ransaxlewill be heend ofthedriveshaft with a nut threadedonto it. Unthread

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DisconnectueFinjectionwiring on Bus and Type 4 engines. Set Hole n bellhousing arrow) s for reachingautomatic ransmissionwiringoomasidednce disconnectionslabel herir!)are made.Hand driveplatehardwareon Type 4 engines.Rotatecrankshaft o bring

cleaner el is greathose and wire cleaner o detail wiring. hardware nto view.

thenut, then remove the circlip from the shaft,behindhe nut. You can pull the shaft forwardsomewhat ith the circlip still attached,but tomove he shaft forward the required 4 in., re-

move he circlip.Lower Engine-Under the rear bumper, re-move he slotted lower splashpan. Note thatboth he engine and transmissionare supportedby crossmembers.While it is possible to re-move he engine with the transaxlecrossmem-

ber n place, it is easier o unbolt it from thechassis. he engine/transmission nit can then

tilt down at the rear, giving a clearerpath forengine emoval.

The transaxle crossmembermounting boltsrequire neperson nside the car o tum the nutsandanotherundemeath o hold the bolts. Sup-port he transaxlewith a ack. Then move for-

ward,support he enginewith ajack, and undoits crossmemberat each end. Now lower theenglne.

Watch the fuel injectors' clearance to the

bodybecause hey are a tight fit. Monitor thetransaxleack too, as t will have o be loweredas heengine s lowered. Remove he four bell-

housingnuts and the engine is ready to dis-engagerom the transaxle. Extract the engine,

then einstall the transaxle crossmember.Onautomaticransmissions, ecure he orque con-verter n place with a metal tab nutted to abellhousingstud.

PORSCHE/VW 914Although there s little difference among he

Type , laterBus and914 engines nce hey'reon he bench, there sure s a difference in the

914 engine mounting. The 914 is a mid-

engined ar, so the engine is right behind theseats, nd the transaxle s behind the engine.

So,whenyou crawl forwardunder he back of a914,you first see he ransaxle, ollowed by the

engine.

Because of the mid-engine mounting, the

enginecan only be removedwith the transaxle

or after the transaxlehas been removed sepa-

rately. If usinga small loor jack, or working on

dirt, it's best o removethe transaxle irst, then

the engine. If using a larger floor jack with a

wide saddle, though, remove the engine and

transaxleas a unit.

I explain removing the engine/transaxle sa

unit here. If you remove the transaxle irst, the

stepsare the same, except you must also re-

move the four bellhousing fastenerso free the

transaxle.Engine Cover-First step n removing a 914's

engine s to takeoffthe enginecover.Two bolts

can be felt under thehinges. Remove one and

have a friend hold that sideup, thenremove he

other bolt and lift off the cover. You'Il have

plentyof extraroom to work andno lid banging

your head to get your attention.

Carburetors-Many 914shavehad heBosch

fuel injection removed and dual carburetors

installed. So, completely remove the car-

buretors, ntake manifolds and throttle linkage

in your installation.

Fuel Injection-If the car is equipped with

fuel injection, remove the air filter and dis-

connect he fuel lines near he battery.There sone supply and one return ine. You don't have

to remove hefuel injection wiring and uel line

ring.Instead, disconnect he connector from the

fuel injection ECU located n front of the bat-

tery. First, remove the battery for clearance,

then unscrewthe ECU's bracket. Tip it up so

the inboard end with the connector s visible.

Unscrew the metal clamp around the wiring

bundle, thenslide offthe plastic cover from the

ECU.The connectorplug takesup almost he entire

side of the ECU. Theremay be a plastic handle

Instead of removing injection wiring from en-gine on 914s, take it otf at ECU, relays andother connections. ECU connector is at oneend; plastic handle on multFpin connectoreases disconnecting.

on the plug; if not, use a hooked nstrument o

carefully remove it. Reinstall the plastic coverand set heECU in a safeplace. Inside he car s

a good spot.Ileater Blower Ducting-Remove the heater

blower motor ducting and the rubber ntake air

elbow.Voltage Regulator-Remove the voltage reg-

ulator by extracting the two screws on its

mounting tang and then lifting off the unit.

Now unscrew he round nut on top of the large

black plasticcovernext to the regulator.Lift off

the cover and find several electrical con-

nections. Label and remove all the con-

nections, then replace he cover andregulator.

27



Pass914 throttlecables hrough sheet metalso they completely clear engine. Otherwise,

they will kink when lowering engine.

Air Filter & Throttle Catrle-Remove theformed sheet-metalair filter support from thecenterofthe engine.Usea ong screwdriver oreach down to the case where the two frontsupport egs attach. The other rear attachmentis bolted o the case singoneofthe case langebolts. With the support removed, the throttlecable can be removed. Unthread the lockinsnulson thecable ousing. isconnecrhecablifrom the throttle arm and push the cablethrough hehole n the right sideengineplate.

Someenginesmount he air ilter to oneside.On these, eave he air filter supportalone.Youcan emove he hrottle cable without detachingthe support.

Vacuum & Vapor Hoses-Label anddiscon-nect the remaining vacuum and vapor hoses.Somecommonhosesgo to the charcoalcanisterand pressure ensor.Drape all the disconnectedhosesover the center of the engine so theywon't be in th e way when removing t.Lift Car-Raise the car and support t on talljack stands.Don't put them under he suspen-sion or front engine crossmember. nstead,place hem at he wo small roundprotrusionsnthe body, outboard and forward of the engine

compartment. Remove the rear wheels andtires. This will give a lot more room and ightunder the car.Removing Cables & Exhaust-It helps toremove the bodywork panel below the rearbumper,but if the chassiss lifted fairly high,the enginecan be removedwith it in place.Remove he muffler from the exhaustpipesandthe muffler brace rom the rear ofthe transaxle.

Unplug the reverse-lighteads rom the lefiside of the transaxle.Unwind the sardinecanclamp over he ear shifterboot anddisconnecttheshifter.Usea smallAllen wrench o removethe setscrew. Anotherset-screw rrangement

28

Usea irm ug o pull everse-light iring romtransaxle-mountedwitch.

Anothershift-rodset screw s ocated n rontof engine where rod enters chassis.Pullback rubberboot to expose screw, and ex-tract t. Once screw s out, removeshift rod.

secures he front end of the shift rod. Lookunder the rubber boot where the shifter entersthe bodywork at the front of the engine com-partment. With the forward connection re-moved, he shift rod canbe extractedrom thecaf .

Unbolt he groundstrapabove he ear rans-axle, unscrew he speedometer able and re-move the clutchcable.The clutch cable s un-done by removing the self-lockingnut in thecenter of the cable pivot: Ihe round plasticwheel. Under he wheelare wo nuts. Removethem, and the metal pivot bracketand cable

Shift linkage s underneathplasticbox withsardine-can and clamp. Use small Allen

wrench o unlockshift rod from ransmissionlinkage.

Transaxlegroundstrapbolts o chassisnearrearmounts.

Speele. Un

til

feat

metamumgine.valve

come free. Loop the cable and bracketaside. acce

Return o the exhaust ystem.Removeeach Hold

exhaust pipe/heat exchanger.Undo the flat two

sheet-metal hielcls nder f,eheatexchansers. brak

and disconnect he heatercontrol valveJand They

associated lumbing. Once the exhaustpipes requi

areout ofthe way, you'll actuallybe able o see les a

theengine. Tt

Axles & CV Joints-I've left the axles until Jotntnow becausehey aresucha gooeymess.And bolts,

the less time you spend pushing the dis- nave

connectedaxles out of th"-*au. ih" b"tt"r. other

Now's the ime, so otate heaxle o getstraieht flang



Speedometerable sat right earof transax-le.Unscrewargenut and pullcable out.

Clutchcablepivotusesa self-locking ut forretention.Removenut and pulley o loosencableand easily emove t at clutchrelease-bearing rm.

Afterducting romengine s removed, ushheater valves out of the way. There's noneed o disconnectheater-control ablesorflexible ucting.

Afterclutchpulley s removed,unthread hetwo bracket nuts. This frees bracket fromtransaxle, leaving clutch cable-to-bracket

connection ndisturbed.

Clean dirt from tiny splines in CV-joint bolts.These bolts are heavily torqued to preventloosening; splines will strip if not completelyclean. Short Allen head tool and wrench duoshown here is cheapest method, but special3/8-drive socket, 12-point 6mm Allen headtool is easier to use.

a lot cleaner.Support Engine-Place the floor jack andplywood under he bellhousing.The arger heplywood, the better.Extra engthwill helpbal-ance he awkward engine/transaxleni t on thejack.

Go forward and remove the two nuts fromthe center of the solid metal crossmember.Theseare the front engine mount nuts. Thenremove he wo largebolts rom thecrossmem-ber ends.The crossmember il l drop free(it'sheavy) complete with the cables that passthrough t. Gently set t asidewithout kinking

Heateructingon Type 4 engines s oftenmetaltubing.xamineourchassis oa mini-

um f heaterducting s removedwith en-n914s, hisclampustbeforeheaters best separationpoint.

o hecon tant-velocityCV) oint bolts.heaxleby insertinga breakerbar through

bolts, or have a helper step on thenscrew and remove the CV bolts.

re 12-point,6mm Allen headbolts hatspecial emoving ool. Rotate he ax-

s coupleof times o reachall the bolts.It takesquite a prying effort to free the CV

rom lhe tansaxle flanges. Besides hehereare dowels at the oint, so you'll

o work to free one side of it, then theacrifice he gasketbetweenoint andy stickinga flat-bladed crewdriver e-

tween hem.Justge ta toehold,about1/16 n.of blade nserted, hen twist the blade. Keepalternatinghisaction ro moneside f the ointto theotheruntil t separates. on't insertmorescrewdriver lade hannecessary r you'll scarthematingsurfaces. hat's why I try to put thescrewdriver ight through he gasket; o t willprotect he metal surfaces.

As soon as you separate CV joint, placeplastic sandwichbags over the joint and itsflange.Use a rubberband to secure he bags.Besides eeping he close olerance, xpensiveCV joints dirt free, hismaneuverwill keepyou

29



As soon asCV-ointscome ree, wraptheman-dransaxle langeswith plasticbajs. Thiswll savea lot of aggravationwhen you dragyourhairover hem,

Bearenginemountsmustcomecompletelyoff transaxle o clear bodywork.Stai.twithsmallmount-to-chassis ardware. hen re-move argerboltsat center.

Front crossmember attaches to enginemountsusingsmallnuts ound n recesledwells. Remove these, then large bolts ateachend of crossmember.

or smashing he cables.Go to the rear and remove the transaxle

mountsat the body. Then theentire bolt, rubbercushion and washerswill come out with theunit.

Lower Engine-Gently start owering the en-gine and transaxlewhile a helper checks theenginecompartment. t' s easy o bang he in-jectors against he bodywork or have their fuellines hangup,so pay extraattention o them. Itwill take a minute or two to jockey the enginefree of the chassis,so take your time.

Remove the unit and support t on the floorwith wood blocks. Be careful to get the blocksbearing against the cylinder heads, not thesheet-metalpushrod tubes or another vulner-able part. Disconnect the startermotor leads,remove he our bellhousing asteners ndsepa-rate he transaxlero m the eneine.

Crossmember will drop after both sets olbolts are out. This iron piece is heavy, so becareful. Don't let it lay unsupported overclutch and speedometer cables; prop one

9nd up with a blockof wood. Once he engineis out, it can be stored by its mounts onchassis.

CLEAN-UP (ALL MODBLS)Once heengine s clearof the chassis, eta

helper and lift it off the jack. Grasp it by theendsofthe cylinderheads, ot he an housing,pushrod ubes, flywheel or the like. Set theengineon the floor. If lifting a Type 4 enginebeprepared or a heavy oad; t weighsabout wiceas much as a Type 1. That's about300 b for aType 4. Two strong people are neededwhenmoving it .

Use he floorjack to get he chassis ackonthe ground and pushed o its storage ocation.Pick up all tools, rags, hardwareand partsbe-fore they get scattered.Storeall hardwareandparts n clearlymarkedboxesandcans.Do thisnow while they're still fresh n your memory.You'll thank yourself at reassembly.Use thetrunk or Bus interior for storage fgarage spaceis tisht.

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Documents

Vw Aircooled Engine