VINTAGE JAPANESE MOTORCYCLE CLUB · VINTAGE JAPANESE MOTORCYCLE CLUB MAGAZINE DECEMBER 2003 From the editor: 2003 National Rally a success by Karen McElhaney National Rally The 3rd

VINTAGE JAPANESE MOTORCYCLE CLUB

OF NORTH AMERICA

VINTAGE JAPANESE MOTORCYCLE CLUB VINTAGE JAPANESE MOTORCYCLE CLUB

Volume 26, Number 6 December 2003 $3.50

Founded 1977

Celebrating over 25 years of vintage motorcycling

Kawasaki's Legendary Z-1Kawasaki's Legendary Z-1How to Buy a Vintage Bike

Winterization Tips

Importing/Exporting Motorcycles

2 www.vjmc.org

VINTAGE JAPANESE MOTORCYCLE CLUB MAGAZINE DECEMBER 2003

CONTENTSCalendar of Events . . . . . . . . . . 2

President’s Column. . . . . . . . . . 3

Editor’s Column . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Preparing Motorcycles forWinter Storage . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

First Things First. . . . . . . . . . . 8

King of the Road: Kawasaki'sLegendary Z-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

The Magic of HondaPart Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Importing/ExportingMotorcycles . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Confessions of an Ebay Addict . . . 17

How to Buy A Vintage Bike . . . . . 21

VJMC National Rally Survey . . . . 23

Classifieds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

This issue’s web password is:blizzardEffective December 25thUse lower case

Mission Statement

The Purpose of this organization is to

promote the preservation, restoration

and enjoyment of Vintage Japanese

motorcycles (defined as those greater

than 15 years old) and to promote the

sport of motorcycling and camaraderie

of motorcyclists everywhere.

PresidentJames Townsend

(260) 839-5203 [email protected]

Magazine EditorKaren McElhaney(865) 671-2628 [email protected]

Classifieds EditorGary Gadd(817) 284-8195 [email protected]

Commercial Advertising DirectorNorman Smith(941) 792-0003 [email protected]

Membership ChairmanEllis Holman(317) 876-0126 [email protected]

Public Relations DirectorEric Nachbaur(603) 293-0600

WebmasterJason Bell(972) 245-0634 [email protected]

Cover LayoutAndre Okazaki

Magazine LayoutDarin Watson

2003 Vintage Japanese MotorcycleClub. All rights reserved. No part of thisdocument may be reproduced or transmit-ted in any form without permission.

A Look Ahead: VJMC Calendar of Events

December

73rd Annual Central Florida Ride; Clermont, FLEnjoy a 50-mile ride and lunch through some of most the beautiful rolling

hills of Florida.Info.: Contact Paul Enz at 321-268-5461 or E-mail: [email protected]. For an

updated list of events, be sure to check the website at www.vjmc.org.

www.vjmc.org 3


From the President: Farewell (sort of)

by Jim Townsend

Continued Growth

This is my last column as Presidentfor the VJMC magazine. After thefirst of January, the club will have anew set of officers, and as I have heldthis job for about five years, I feel it istime for someone else to take over.The Board of Directors will be votingon the new slate and you will proba-bly be notified first on the web site atwww.vjmc.org.

I have truly enjoyed being the manat the helm of this club and hate togive it up. I have met a truly greatbunch of guys and you can bet I willstill be around. I plan on being a FieldRep in Indiana and possibly being onthe Board for a while longer. I amsure that my successor will do thingsdifferently and I hope bring in somenew life into the club. We are reallyon the brink of becoming a recog-nized body of well-educated and re-spected motorcyclists in ourhemisphere. We are the organizationthat people come to for help, since weare the ones who know about theseold bikes.

The club will be moving in a newdirection with the new officers.Well, not really a new direction, butmaybe with a little more push behindit.

We have had several groups want-ing to form chapters of the VJMC. Infact, the Tennessee chapter, Chapter1 of the VJMC, staged the 2003 Na-tional VJMC Rally in Oak Ridge,Tennessee. Chapters provide an op-portunity for forming more cohesivelocal groups with members whoknow each other and can work to-gether to have various activities. InIndiana we have met sporadicallyfor the past couple of years and havegotten to know each other, but have-n’t formally initiated a chapter. Thatwill be coming soon. With the form-ing of chapters, we will see much

more growth in the club in the nextfew years. With this growth in mem-bers we will also see a better maga-zine. It is pretty good now, but it canand will be better. We will be morerecognized by national advertiserswho cater to people like us and wewill see more advertising and that inturn will help pay for a better publi-cation. More members mean morepaying advertisers, which results ina better magazine, which makes theclub more desirable, which meansincreasing numbers of members in anever-ending upward spiral! Thereis a limit of course, but I can easilysee where the club could reach amembership of 15,000 or more.

Hayden Shepley

I don’t know how many of youhave ever met Hayden, but he hasbeen a member of the club at leastsince 1983. I don’t know just howlong he has been a member, butHayden has been a promoter of theclub for almost as long as there hasbeen a club.

I first met Hayden at the White Roseswap meet about five years ago. Hewas a tall, slim, white-haired gentle-man at a small table with some VJMCliterature, a few T-shirts, and someJapanese motorcycle parts for sale.Hayden isn’t a pushy type of personand it is easy to walk past withoutpaying much attention, but he wasthere representing the club.

I was talking to Paul Enz, a FieldRep from Florida, a while back andhe was telling me that not only didHayden Shepley go to White Rose,but he also goes to Florida for thewinters and has set up his little tableat Daytona and Deland and has rep-resented the club there for manyyears. It’s the same type of set-up;the same stuff, with Hayden just sit-ting there and answering questionsabout the club and urging people tojoin.

Paul suggested that we recognizeHayden for his many years as a tire-less and trusty representative of theclub. The club had a plaque made topresent to Hayden, but somehow hehas eluded us and I hope that bynow he knows how we feel abouthim and that we wish him manymore years with the club. SoHayden, as a token of our apprecia-tion, we wish to present this plaqueto you and wish you many moreyears with us (now please tell uswhere you are!).

2003 NationalVJMC Rally

Bigger and better is how I describeit! The Rally was more organizedand better run with more events andactivities than ever. The TennesseeChapter went all-out. The site wasgreat and near a lot of wonderfulroads to ride on. This old Hoosierflatlander doesn’t get to ride roadslike that every day, but I sure do en-joy it when I can. I took two bikes, a1977 Honda CB550F and a 1980CX500, and rode them both for a lotof miles. We even rode the “Dragon”to Deals Gap both ways. What ablast! I keep saying that you justhave to try to make it to a NationalRally. Great rides, great food, ANDa bunch of great guys and gals to palaround with. Next year it will be atthe same place and same time ofyear, so put it on your calendarNOW.

I know this is a bit far east for mostof you, but if you want another West-ern National Rally, now is the time tostart planning on one for 2004 and/or2005. We can do it. We have themanpower. We just need to get orga-nized a bit more.

Hang in there and support your newofficers, and I’ll see you down theroad.

4 www.vjmc.org


From the editor: 2003 National Rally a success

by Karen McElhaney

National Rally

The 3rd Annual VJMC NationalRally held in Oak Ridge, Tennessee,in September was a big success. Over100 members registered for the event,and from the look of things, everyonehad a great time! The weather wasperfect, and members enjoyed rides,field events, a bike show, and outingsto area landmarks and attractions.Members and vendors alike partici-pated in a swap meet, and seminars onfuel tank cleaning, the history ofHonda’s Gold Wing, and repairingplastic parts were also held. Anold-fashioned pig roast and bluegrasshoedown on Tellico Lake was thehighlight of the week’s special events.

The best part of the week was get-ting to meet many of you. VJMCmembers and their partners are an en-thusiastic group, and it was a realpleasure to talk with you, share bikestories, and enjoy the Rally. The Feb-ruary magazine will include addi-tional coverage of the National Rally.

A member survey is included in thisissue so those members who did notattend the 2003 Rally have the oppor-tunity to provide ideas and sugges-tions for future events. Help us tocontinue to make the National Rallytruly an event for all members – par-ticipate in the survey!

Survey Results

Thanks to everyone who respondedto the members’ survey in the Augustmagazine. You provided us with someinteresting information and some ex-cellent ideas. While this was by nomeans a scientific endeavor, here’s asummary of what you told us:

Average number of bikes owned: 6.Percent of survey respondents own-

ing: Honda 71%, Kawasaki 29%,Suzuki 14%, Yamaha 29%, Other43%.

Most popular types of magazine ar-ticles: technical, “how to,” restora-tion tips, bike profiles, regional/chapter events, and Q/A forum.Many readers noted that they enjoythe classified ads. And because sev-eral of you asked for a Q/A forum,

here’s an idea for implementing it:those members interested in partici-pating on a “Technical Board,” i.e.,those with expertise in various tech-nical areas and/or particular makesand models, and would be interestedin fielding readers’ questions, let me

Top: Floyd and Denise Ratliff enjoy a moment of peace at the Rally sign-in booth. Bot-tom: Members' bikes on display at the National Rally.

www.vjmc.org 5


know. If we can get a panel willing toanswer questions, then each issuewill feature members’ questions andVJMC’s Technical Board answers.Anyone interested in participatingshould contact the Editor.

Most respondents said that they hadjoined VJMC to meet other vintagebike enthusiasts, and some joined toget help finding parts or for restoringtheir bikes. Some members joined toget general information on vintagemotorcycles.

When asked how VJMC could im-prove, many survey respondents saidthat we are doing a great job and that

VJMC needs to keep growing. Sugges-tions for improvement included: addmore tech tips and restoration articles tothe magazine, enhance coverage of allJapanese brands, and encourage fieldreps to promote events and engage themembership in more activities.

We will take all your comments andsuggestions into consideration as wetry to improve your motorcycle club.The magazine staff is still goingthrough a learning curve and is tryingto make improvements in content,format, and delivery, and we wel-come your ideas and contributions tothe magazine. Keep sending them!

In This Issue

Since the weather is becoming lessconducive to riding for many of us,thoughts are turning to winteriza-tion and the upcoming riding seasonnext year. Ellis Holman has pro-vided us with an excellent article ongeneral winter storage techniques,Dennis Caswell tells us how to im-port a motorcycle from a foreigncountry, and Adam Glass has devel-oped a checklist of items to considerwhen buying a used bike. An expla-nation of Honda part codes is in-cluded, and Richard Sulik givesadvice on avoiding hasty problemdiagnostics. Greg Walker begins aseries on the legendary KawasakiZ-1, the cover story for this issue,and those of us who can’t stay awayfrom online auctions may relate toour final story, confessions of aneBay addict. So sit back by the fire,enjoy this issue accompanied by asteaming glass of mulled cider, and

dream about warmer weather.

Members’ Bike Photos

In response to my request in the Oc-tober issue for bike photos, two mem-bers responded in fine fashion bysending gorgeous photos of their vin-tage bikes. Al Onia of Calgary, Al-berta, sent a photo of the “3 Amigos”– a 1977 Hodaka Wombat, a 1966Honda CL160, and a toaster-tankHodaka Ace 100.

James Camack of Los Osos, Califor-nia, sent a picture of his restored 1969Kawasaki H-1, complete with extrachrome and after-market exhaust.James says it took him five years togather enough parts to rebuild the bike,and encourages members to rebuild

their bikes however you like them!Don’t forget to visit the VJMC on

the internet to view photos of othermembers’ bikes. Jason Bell, our newwebmaster, and Bob Pryor invitemembers to share their bike photoson the web site. Click on the Mem-bers tab from the Main Menu formore information. And keep sendingme your photos, too!

Top: Al Onia’s 1977 Hodaka Wombat, 1966 Honda CL160, and a toaster-tank HodakaAce 100. Bottom: James Camack’s restored 1969 Kawasaki H-1.

6 www.vjmc.org


Preparing motorcycles for winter storage

by Ellis Holman

In many parts of the United States,Canada, the UK, and Europe, this isthe season when we begin to thinkabout protecting our bikes for winter.There are many ways to accomplishthis task and this article will gothrough some of the techniques thathave traditionally been used.

Let's start with the fuel tank. Mostof our vintage Japanese fuel tanks aresteel and the inside of them is baremetal. For tanks that haven't beencoated, the requirement here is to pre-vent rust from forming (and a goodidea, even if the tank has beencoated). To accomplish this there area number of tactics that can be em-ployed. The simplest one is to fill thetank with fresh gasoline (or petrol)and use a product such as Stabil to in-sure the fuel doesn't degrade (toomuch). The fuel denies the oxygen inthe air the opportunity to attack theinside of the tank and form rust.Stabil isn't a bad idea for most of uswho don't ride our vintage Japanesebikes regularly, anyway. Modern fu-els can degrade quickly so that thepremium gas that was in the tank lastmonth is less than regular grade fuelby the end of this month. The advan-tage of this measure is that it allowsyou to start the bike if you get a niceday and the inclination to ride thebike. Another approach is to drain allof the fuel from the tank and thenspray the inside with a rust preventa-tive such as WD-40. If you can getthe tank clean and dry, products suchas Desiccare’s Pillow Packs can beplaced inside it to prevent rust forma-tion. The downside of this techniqueis that you can’t easily go fromunridable to rideable and back with-out going through all the previouswork of draining the tank, etc. Don’tforget the carburetors. Carburetorsshould be drained of fuel, or if you’reusing Stabil, make sure to run the en-gine long enough to insure that the

stabilized fuel reaches thecarburetors. This usually takes about3 minutes (more or less), dependingon the size and number of carbure-tors. A spin around the block shouldtake care of getting the stabilized fuelinto the carburetors.

To protect the engine’s internals,it’s always a good idea to bring theengine to operating temperature andthen perform a complete oil change.By complete I mean that all the old oilis removed, along with replaceableoil filters (and cleaning the centrifugetype used by small Honda twins). Oldoil can contain acids that during stor-age will promote rust. The oil changeis intended to minimize that. For in-creased protection, preservative oillike the kind used for storing aircraftengines is an option. Companies suchas Wicks can supply preservative oil.

During storage, some owners favorturning the engine over to help circu-late oil and prevent the piston ringsfrom sticking, while others removethe spark plugs and spray oil into thecylinders to prevent corrosion. An-other good way to prevent corrosionis to use dehydrator plugs. Dehydra-tor plugs replace the spark plugs andabsorb moisture. 14mm plugs can beordered for $5.00 each fromPROTEKAIR (see chart for contactinformation).

For water-cooled motorcycles likethe Honda CX500 and GL1000,don’t forget that winter storage is agood time to flush and refill the cool-ing system. This is especially true ifthe bike will be exposed to freezingtemperatures. Antifreeze used in thecoolant does degrade over time. An-nual replacement is a good idea.

Contacts for winter storage preparation

Preservative oilWickshttp://www.wicksaircraft.com/gotopage.php?page=218

Dehydrator plugsPROTEKAIR2392 Jamestown RoadFernandina Beach, Florida 32034904-261-0601

Enclosure bagshttp://www.bull-frog.com/Cortec Corporation4119 White Bear ParkwaySt. Paul, MN 55110Toll Free: 1-800-4-CORTECPhone: 651-429-1100Fax: 651-429-1122Email:[email protected]

Battery chargers

Deltran Corporation801 US Highway 92EDeland, FL 32724Phone: 386-736-7900Fax: 386-736-6458

http://www.batterytender.com/

www.vjmc.org 7


With the inside of the engine takencare of, now let’s look at some otheritems. Disc brake systems should beflushed and refilled (good to do on aregular basis anyway) if common pe-troleum-based brake fluids (DOT3and DOT4) are used. The hydraulicfluid absorbs moisture and causes cor-rosion. An alternative to this is to usesilicone brake fluids that don’t absorbmoisture and that prevent corrosion.NAPA Auto Parts stores sell a sili-cone-based brake fluid that’s compati-ble with petroleum-based brake fluids.This allows a simple replacement ofthe petroleum-based brake fluid withthe silicone-based brake fluid. Thereis no requirement to dismantle andclean the brake system.

If the bike isn’t going to be riddenfor a long period of time, inflate thetires to the correct pressure and placethe bike on its center stand. Block the

bike so that the front tire is not restingon the ground. To help preventweather cracking, apply a protectantlike Armor All.

For the bright work and painted sur-faces, use a covering of good qualitywax. Put the wax on all exterior sur-faces (not handgrips or other rub-ber!), but avoid flat or satin finishessuch as those found on switch hous-ings or many master brake cylinderhousings. Put it on and don’t wipe itaway.

If you are not lucky enough to havea nice heated, environmentally con-trolled garage to store your bike in,consider using a cocoon. Companiessuch as Bull Frog make a full enclo-sure bag that protects the bike fromcorrosion.

The nice thing about using one ofthese covers is that it eliminates allthe work required for putting on and

taking off wax and other protectantsfrom exterior surfaces. It also keepssurfaces dust free. The bag is simplylaid out, the bike is ridden onto thebag, and then the bag is zipped uparound it!

Batteries should be removed fromthe bike and stored where it they areprotected from freezing. There are lotof schools of thought surrounding thecare of batteries; however, the com-mon threads are to use distilled waterto fill the battery to its full level mark-ings and keep the battery fullycharged. This may be done with fre-quent shorter duration charges or a24-hour charge once every 30 days.Battery Tender from Deltran Corpo-ration is an excellent “smart” chargerthat helps maintain optimal batterycharge without a lot of work on yourpart. These are available at mostBatteries Plus stores.

Membership ApplicationNew _______________ Renewal ______________

********************************************

Name: ______________________________________

Address: ____________________________________

_____________________________________

City: _____________________ State: ____________

Zip/Postal Code: ___________ Country: __________

Phone: ______________________________________

E-mail address: _______________________________

Preferred Make(s): ____________________________

Preferred Model (s): _________________________

Signature: _________________________________

Date: _____________________________________

Yearly dues: $25.00 (USD) for North America; $41

(USD) outside of North America. Please send your

check or money order made out to VJMC along with

this application to:

VJMC9671 Troon CourtCarmel, Indiana 46032

Thank you!

8 www.vjmc.org


by Richard Sulik

If you live a long time, eventuallyyou will make every stupid, bone-headed mistake there is to make. Thisprocess is called experience. This isnot quite as bad as it seems, becauseif you manage to keep all (or most) ofyour marbles as you age, that processenables you to recognize the samestupid, bone-head mistake when youmake it again. What’s even better isthat if you’re really lucky, it enablesyou to recognize a stupid bone-headmistake before you make it again. I’mon the downhill side of 55, slidin’ fasttowards 60, and while there are vary-ing opinions as to whether I’ve keptall of my marbles, I’ve kept at leastenough to recognize an old mistakebefore I make it again, althoughsometimes just barely. A recent casein point:

I’ve got a small, early ‘70’s twinthat I bought towards the end of lastyear. It was in superb original shape,having been stored indoors for de-cades, and was showing less than3,000 miles on the odometer. When Ipurchased it, it started on the secondor third kick, and earlier this year, Irode it about 50 miles without inci-dent in our town’s annual spring Mo-torcycle Awareness ride. But it’s nota piece that I want to add to my per-manent collection, so a couple ofweeks ago I made plans to take it to amotorcycle swap meet in the Chicagosuburbs.

However, just before I loaded it inmy trailer, I was nagged by the little,quiet (almost inaudible) voice thatsometimes lives inside my head. Thesame quiet little voice that occasion-ally (but not always!) tells me usefulthings like: “Don’t run that red lighteven though it’s late!” and “The copthat was hiding around that curve anhour ago might still be there!” and“Don’t set off that cherry bomb justnow!” This time, the quiet little voicesaid “Kick the bike over; make sure it

starts before taking it to the SwapMeet!” So I kicked it. And kicked it.And kicked it. It wouldn’t start.

I was angry, frustrated, disap-pointed, and nonplussed all at thesame time. Talk about “mixed emo-tions!” The solution I picked was tolapse into my “You can’t mess withme and get away with it!” mode.Roaring and frothing and in generalmaking like a miniature “IncredibleHulk,” I reached for my can of start-ing fluid.

I sprayed enough ether into the aircleaner to anesthetize half theneighborhood, kicked the bike untilI was heaving and gasping forbreath, and all I got for my Hercu-lean efforts was a snort, a cough,and a couple of backfires. It wasnow clear that this bike wasn’t go-ing to the Swap Meet.

Later that evening, still in a stew,but having gotten my breath back, Iwent back out to the garage and at-tempted to rescue my plans for thefollowing day’s Swap Meet. I knewthe battery was up (horn was nice andloud), and there was plenty ofhigh-quality petroleum distillates inthe tank. Obviously, I wasn’t gettingfire. I pulled both plugs out, rein-serted the tips into the spark plugwire boots, grounded them on thehead where I could see them, andkicked some more. The right-sideplug spit a feeble little spark, sort of;the left-side did not, which confirmedmy initial hypothesis. Contemplatingthe fact that the bike ran fine a coupleof months before, I completed myday’s already strenuous workout rou-tine by engaging in one of my mostfavorite exercises: jumping to a con-clusion. In this case, the conclusionwas that the problem had to be thecoil.

After some poking, I discoveredthat on this bike, the coil was locatedin a tight little cranny underneath thegas tank. To get at it, I would have totake off the luggage rack, the

grab-handle, the seat, the fuel lines,and then the tank. Too much work forthat evening; there was to be no sal-vaging the trip to the Swap Meet.

One of the things I’ve done realwell ever since childhood is to pout.So I went inside to watch TV andpout for a while. I emerged from thehouse on a Saturday morning a weeklater, having pouted enough to feelready enough to undertake the oner-ous task of getting the coil out whereI could examine it and test it to con-firm my previously-arrived-at con-clusion that it had gone“tango-uniform,” as the folks in theAir Force so coyly put it.

Now lots of folks who are other-wise completely untalented canjump to conclusions all day longwithout so much as a shred of equip-ment. I, on the other hand, jumped tomy conclusion equipped with threebrilliantly logical suppositions.First, I assumed that the little twinprobably had an ignition system sim-ilar to the Honda 305 Dreams, whereonly one set of points fired a coilwith two high-tension (spark plug)leads. Secondly, 2,800 miles, nomatter how harshly driven, were in-sufficient to significantly affect thecondition of the factory-installedpoints. And lastly, since I was get-ting fire on the right side, but not theleft, the problem was most likely abroken connection in the left-sidehigh-tension lead. All three supposi-tions were eminently logical, but, asit turned out, all were completelywrong. But I’m getting ahead of my-self.

I got out my 3/8” ratchet and socketset, and was in the process of select-ing the correct size socket for the lug-gage rack bolts when that quiet littlevoice started nagging: “Did youcheck the points?”

“Fugedaboudit!” I told the voice.“The bike has less than 3,000 mileson it – the points gotta be fine!” But

the voice wouldn’t go away.

Remember, check first things first

www.vjmc.org 9


“Remember: check First ThingsFirst! Why don’t you just check thepoints?” the little voice wheedled.Obviously, I wasn’t going to get anypeace until I actually showed the littlevoice that the points were fine. So Igot a screwdriver and undid the pointcover.

I wasn’t prepared for what I sawwhen the cover came off. The pointcavity was nearly filled with an in-credible dirty, rusty mess. I was ap-palled. Where the dirt had comefrom, I couldn’t even begin to guess.And the amount and consistency ofthe rust was mind-boggling. I’m suremost of us have seen point camshafts that have gotten a little rustedup–lightly covered with thatfine-grained surface rust that youcan pretty much just wipe off withyour fingertip. This stuff wasleagues beyond that. It was thatheavy, flaky rust that exfoliates inchunks and leaves big pits – the kindof rust you associate with cheap steelthat has been exposed to moisturefor a long time. The metal that pointcam was made of was undoubtedlythe worst piece of steel ever to getpast a quality control inspector inpost-war Japan.

Regaining some of my aplomb, Iwent and got a can of WD-40, a canof spray-on brake parts cleaner,some cotton swabs, a dental pick(you have several in your tool boxfor jobs like this, don’t you?), and acouple of rags, and started trying toget that stuff out of there. First cameseveral liberal applications of theparts cleaner. I wanted to get the dirtout of there so I could see the extentof the rust better. Removing the dirtrevealed another surprise: therewere two sets of points; one for eachcylinder. And as I started sprayingthe rust with the WD-40 and scrap-ing it out with the dental pick, Icould finally see the actual cause ofthe problem: apparently, the pointcam shaft had been rusting away forquite a number of years. Then I camealong, bought the machine, started it,and rode it. The amount of riding Idid was enough to cause the rust on

the point cam shaft to grind away therubbing blocks on the points. Byturning the motor over slowly, Icould see that the set of points on theright was still opening (sort of), butthe set on the left was not. Now Iknew why I had spark on one side(sort of), and no spark on the other. Itwasn’t the coil after all. All that ef-fort expended jumping to a conclu-sion, and it wasn’t even the rightone.

The dental pick and cotton swabsgot most of the gross rust off thepoint cam shaft and the points. Asmall piece of folded-up sandpaper

took care of most of what remained,and after a while, I got to where Icould try resetting the points. Neveran easy task on any vintage motor-cycle, this particular model addedan extra element of difficulty: therewas no marking to indicate the highspot on the point cam. With a littlemore spraying and sanding, andwith a process done almost entirelyby feel, I was able to use afelt-tipped marker to indicate aboutwhere I thought the cam started ris-ing, and where it started falling. Thehigh point was presumed to beabout somewhere in the middle.Us-ing my thinnest set of feeler gauges,I adjusted the set of points that was-n’t opening at all to .014,” what Iconsider to be a good “universal”setting for motorcycles. Still some-what reluctant to give up my earlierconclusion, I flicked on the key, andbegan romping on the kick-start le-ver. The bike roared to life on thesecond kick. I shut the bike off, ad-

justed the second set of points to.014” as well. A new set of plugscompleted the job. The bike ranstrongly, and from that time on,would start on the first kick, everytime, hot or cold.

Nearly everyone jumps to conclu-sions from time to time; both new-comers to vintage Japanesemotorcycles and us old hands whohave been around since these bikeswere new. Regrettably, failing tocheck first things first is nearly al-ways the shortcoming of us old ex-perienced guys. We’ve been at thisso long, we get to thinking that wecan figure out what’s wrong with abike just by the way it coughs, or theway the motor feels as we’re kickingit through. We start thinking that gasin the tank means gas in the cylin-ders, or that a charge in the batteryequals spark at the plugs. So at thefirst sign of a problem, we start look-ing for obscure, unlikely causes, likebad coils.

Certainly, given enough time,you’ll come across your share ofproblems with obscure causes, likethe slug of crud that plugs up a fuelline between the petcock and thecarb inlet needle, and chokes downthe flow of gas to a slow drip. Sure,you’ll get gas out of the carburetordrain, but for how long? Just longenough to get the bike started and ingear before it flames out? Or one ofthose devilish little bullet connec-tors the Japanese loved so muchcoming undone on a part of the wir-ing harness deep inside the frame,leaving that fresh charge of electric-ity sitting right there in the battery,or worse yet, draining happily toground. And of course, vibration,the passage of time, and tempera-ture fluctuations can cause coilwindings to open or short. These arealways frustrating malfunctionstroubleshoot. But most often, if youencounter a poor running or no-startcondition with your bike, remem-bering to check first things first willget you back on the road or trailmost quickly.

"Failing to checkfirst things first isnearly always theshortcoming of usold experienced

guys."

10 www.vjmc.org


King of the road: Kawasaki's legendary Z-1

by Greg Walker

Few vehicles have generated the ex-citement and anticipation upon intro-duction as the Kawasaki Z-1. TheHemi Mopars, Dodge Viper, andEnzo Ferrari are some of the vehiclesthat come to mind whose introduc-tion compared to that of the Z-1. TheKawasaki Z-1 was the motorcycle ofthe ’70s. This was the bike that mosteveryone wanted to ride and own – amotorcycle with overall performancenever before achieved by any vehiclemanufacturer. The exotic perfor-mance cars of today have finallyequaled the performance of the Z-1,but you can still purchase a mint Z-1for a couple of orders of magnitudeless than an Enzo Ferrari.

In early 1967, Kawasaki Heavy In-dustries embarked on a mission tocreate the super motorcycle of the fu-ture – a state-of-the-industry bike tobe coveted by all. A team of engi-neers was assembled to develop thatall-around super performance motor-cycle. The plan was simple: designthe engine, frame, controls, exhaustsystem, and styling at the same time,to work as one unit. The team leaderwas Osamu “Sam” Tanegashima.Sam’s first task was to help deter-mine what the ultimate motorcyclewould encompass. Sam traveled tothe U.S. to ask potential customerswhat a perfect motorcycle wouldlook like. Sam met with dealers, en-thusiasts, motorcycle magazine edi-tors, and others to help define theultimate motorcycle. The data wastaken back to the Kawasaki Akashifactory and the team developed theirplan. The code name for the plan wasproject N600.

The N600 project called for afour-stroke, four-cylinder bike withdouble overhead camshaft and large750cc displacement. The team hadselected a motor and started to buildmock-ups when they hit a major set-back.

In September of 1968 at the TokyoMotor Show, Honda upstagedKawasaki with the introduction oftheir single overhead camshaftfour-cylinder, four-stroke, 67-HPCB750. The Kawasaki team was inshock and returned to the Akashi fac-tory and put the project on hold. Butby the middle of 1969, the team wason track again. The project was re-named T103, “The New York Steak.”The first thing the team did was tothoroughly evaluate the strengths andweaknesses of the CB750. The teamspent the next two years improving al-

most every aspect of the T103. Theyalso increased the engine displace-ment from 750cc to 903cc. Thus, theKawasaki 900 super 4 model Z-1 wasborn. The team now set out to confirmthat the Z-1 was truly a king.

In March of 1972, two prototypebikes were shipped to the U.S. fortwo months of field-testing. Thebikes were first sent to WillowSprings and Talladega to simulate250-mile road races running at topspeeds for hours at a time. The bikeswere then driven in all road condi-tions throughout the U.S. The bikes

Top: The 1973 models in Candy Green and Yellow and Candy Brown and Orange. Bot-tom: The 1974 models in Candy Green and Yellow and Candy Brown and Orange.

www.vjmc.org 11


were driven 5,000 miles during theroad racing segment and another8,000 miles during road tests in theU.S. The results were outstanding;just a few minor failures. The bikeswere disguised as Honda CB750s anddriven from coast to coast twice. InMay of 1972, Kawasaki invited jour-nalists from four major U.S. motor-cycle magazines to Japan to get afirst-hand introduction to the Z-1.The team wanted any last minute crit-icism before the final release. Theyonly heard praise.

In September of 1972, when the firstshipments of the Z-1 were arriving inthe U.S., the results were in. TheKawasaki team had created the most

powerful production motorcycle evermanufactured; a four-cylinder,four-stroke, double overhead camshaft,903cc super motorcycle that boasted82 HP. The Z-1 was capable of topspeeds of 130 mph and quarter miletimes in the low 12.0-sec range. TheZ-1 was also capable of running atspeeds in excess of 100 mph for hoursat a time or cruising about town in theheaviest traffic. The performance wasachieved with an 8.5:1 compression ra-tio and very mild camshaft grind. Theperformance was impressive, but sowas the PVC system that reduced hy-drocarbon emissions by 40%. The en-gineers selected sintered valves to meetthe higher operating temperature re-

quirements of burning unleaded fuels.The Z-1 would go on to set a newworld 24-hour speed record and 50new world and American performancerecords.

The Z-1 became the motorcycle foralmost every application. The mild tun-ing yielded a very broadband enginethat quickly made the Z-1 a favorite ofdrag racers, road racers, and long dis-tance touring. The Z-1 appeared inmovies, television shows, and adver-tisements. A huge aftermarket productindustry grew up to offer every optionimaginable for the Z-1. A multitude ofcompanies offered headers, seats, bodyworks, wheels, and performance up-grades. The Z-1 had become a motor-cycle industry juggernaut.

Models

The 1973 Z-1 was a visually stun-ning motorcycle with a flowing geo-metric relationship between thebodywork, the black and polishedaluminum motor, and the fourchrome exhaust pipes. The 1973 Z-1was offered worldwide in CandyBrown and Orange. The CandyGreen and Yellow version was onlyoffered in Europe and a few other se-lect markets. The Candy Green andYellow version was not offered in theU.S. I have heard the urban legendtales of that chosen U.S. dealer thatreceived a Candy Green and YellowZ-1. Kawasaki produced 20,000 Z-1sin 1972 and 1973.

The major changes for the 1974 mod-els now called the Z-1A were the barealuminum engine and new paint for-mat, which involved striping instead ofpanels. The base colors remained al-most the same. The metal flake was alittle smaller and the color was perhapsa little darker. The fuel tank emblemswere enlarged. The tachometer nowhad a brake indicator light incorpo-rated. The meter cover was changed.The carburetors and ignition were im-proved about half way through the pro-duction year. Kawasaki produced27,500 Z-1As in 1973 and 1974.

Top: The 1975 Models in Candy Super Red and Candy Super Blue. Bottom: The 1973,1974 and 1975 models in Candy Green and Candy Blue.

See King, page 14

12 www.vjmc.org


Interested in Old Motorcycles?Join the Antique Motorcycle Club of America! The largestorganization in the country devoted to antique motorcycles.Membership includes an 88 page quarterly magazineloaded with feature articles, and a free Want Ad section.Sign me up!Name ____________________________________Address __________________________________City ____________________ State ____ Zip______

Dues: U.S.A......$20.00, Canada ..........$28.00, Other countries ......$40.00

Mail to:Antique Motorcycle Club of America Inc.P.O. Box 310V, Sweetser, IN 469871 800 782-AMCA (2622)

To participate in club events and place want ads bikes must be 35 years old.

Join theClub!

Or join on-line at:www.antiquemotorcycle.org

Club membership runs fromJanuary 1 to December 31

The magic of Honda part numbers

by Ellis Holman

By now, almost anyone whoworks with Hondas knows aboutthe product code or model code.Those three digits found in the cen-ter of a Honda part number, such as–300– for the 1969-1971 CB750,designate the Honda model onwhich the part was first used. Whatcan the remainder of the part num-ber tell us? Is there any more infor-mation to be gained from the entirepart number? Let’s take a look andsee what information is contained inthose other digits.

There are a couple of general varia-tions in format. First, Honda has partnumber standards for all parts otherthan hardware (with the exception ofsome special nuts, bolts, and wash-

ers). Standard parts have thefollowing format:

The first two digits, the Functioncode, designate the general area thatthe part fits:

11: Engine cases.12: Cylinder head.13: Crank/cylinder/piston.14: Valve train.15: Oiling system.16: Carburetors.17: Fuel and intake systems.18: Exhaust system.22: Clutch.

23: Transmission.24: Shift mechanism.28: Starter drive systems.30: Ignition system.31: Engine electrical.32: Body electrical.33: Lighting equipment.34: Lighting, bulbs.35: Switch assemblies.37: Meters and equipment.38: Relays, horn, fuses.40: Chain case and chain.41: Final driven sprocket.42: Rear wheel/hub.43: Rear brake assembly.44: Front wheel/hub.45: Front brake assembly.46: Front brake assembly.50: Frame/stands/footpeg.51: Front suspension.52: Rear suspension.

www.vjmc.org 13


53: Control components.61: Special hardware.77: Seat.80: Rear fender.83: Side cover components.84: Cushion component.87: Emblems and labels.88: Mirrors.89: Tools.90: Special bolts/screws.91: Seals/O-rings/special bearings.The next three digits are the Com-

ponent code. There are too manyvariations to list here, but examplesinclude:

2nn: Connecting rod.1nn: Oil pump internal.0nn: Piston rings.7nn: Valve spring.This can tell you within a given

Function code information about aspecific part.

The next three digits are the Productcode. Product codes are used in thepart number to denote the first ma-

chine to use that part. Parts may beused on more than one machine. Forexample, the oil filter used onHonda’s CB500 four has the partnumber 15412–300–024. The centercode (300) indicates that this part wasfirst used on the 1969-1971 HondaCB750.

The next two digits are the Modifi-cation designation. Digits other thanzero indicate a part that has beenmodified in some way.

The final digit is the Subcontractordesignation. Some of the codes usedhere include:

2: DAIDO.3: ARAI, Yamada oil pump,

Misuba electrical parts, Stanley light-ing equipment, Nachi roller/ballbearings, Tokiko disk brake compo-nents, Daido engine bearings/rims.

4: Koyo roller/ball bearings, Riken.5: Mitsubishi engine parts, NOK oil

seals/O-rings, Hitachi electricalparts.

6: Asahi brake pads/shoes.1 & 8: Nippon Denso.Although no longer in common us-

age, the last three digits of the partnumber have also been used as a spe-cial code. Honda has used these threedigits to denote Police bike parts–750 and –751 and CYB racing parts–810.

Now then, let’s turn to the secondvariation, the numbers that Honda as-signs to hardware, like nuts, bolts,screws, studs, and washers. The partnumbers assigned for this series areconstructed like so:

The Function code consists of twodigits. It identifies the type of itemand is always between 92 and 99.These are:

92: Bolts.93: Screws.94: Nuts.95: Fasteners (speed nuts, etc.).96: Bearings.97: Spokes.98: Spark plugs.99: Jets.

Because there are many types ofparts, digits 3, 4, and 5 furtheridentify the parts. For example,940 designates a nut, while 941designates a washer. Likewise,parts numbered 920 to 934 desig-nate bolts and part numbers con-taining 935 are screws.

Type detail digits 3, 4, and 5 areused to classify parts. They differen-tiate standard nuts from slotted nuts,divide washers into plain or springtype, and classify bolts by length. Forbolts, screws, studs, etc., digit 3 indi-cates the method of manufacture anddigits 4 and 5 indicate the threadlength. Nuts are differentiated bydigit 4. For example, 9400 is a hexnut, while 9401 is a castle nut. The

See Numbers, page 15

14 www.vjmc.org


The major changes for the 1975models now called the Z-1B were thenew candy blue and candy red color.A new stronger O-ring chain was in-corporated. The chain oiler systemwas no longer required. The handle-bar switches were changed. The frontforks were improved. The side coveremblems were enlarged. A new10-mph increment speedometer wasincorporated. Kawasaki produced38,500 Z-1Bs in 1974 and 1975.

The Z1 Today

If introduced today, the Z-1 wouldbe a nice running midsize motorcycle.In 1972 it was the king of the road.The Z-1 is still a performance motor-cycle and is a lot of fun to drive. TheZ-1 has become a very collectablebike, with proud owners residing in allcorners of the world. There are Z-1clubs in many countries around theworld. There are also Z-1 parts suppli-ers with NOS and reproduction partsin many countries around the world.

The first few thousand Z-1s producedhad little differences, which make themthe most collectable. The brown paintcolor was lighter, the head had vacuumnipples, and there were lots of differentlittle items unique to the early Z-1s.The 1973 Candy Green and Yellowmodel is the rarest of the Z-1s. The1975 Super Candy Blue model seemsto be the next most difficult model toobtain in mint condition. The originalpaint body works and original pipes arethe most difficult items to find thesedays. The seats, gages, handlebarswitches, and shocks are getting moredifficult to find.

If you own one of these motorcyclestoday, hold on to it. They seem to be-come more collectable every year.

Editor’s note: Visit the VJMC website (www.vjmc.org) to view colorphotos of Mr. Walker’s Z-1 collec-tion.

King: Kawasaki's Z-1 has become collectable

The 1973, 1974 and 1975 Models in both color schemes.

Kawasaki Model Z-1 specifications

PERFORMANCEMaximum horsepower 82-hp/8,500 rpmMaximum torque 54.3 ft-lb/7,000 rpmMaximum speed ~130 mphAcceleration SS ¼ mile ~ 12 sec.Climbing ability 30 degreeFuel consumption 40 mile/gal. @ 70 mph

TRANSMISSION5-speed, constant mesh, return shiftClutch type Wet, multi-discOverall drive ratio 4.92

FRAMETubular, double cradle

ENGINEType 4-cycle, 4-cylinder, in-line,

transversely mounted,air-cooled, DOHC

Displacement 903 cc (55.1 ci)Bore and Stroke 2.6x2.6 in. (66x66 mm)Compression ratio 8.5:1Carburetors Mikuni VM 28x4Lubrication Wet sumpEngine oil SAE 10W 40

BRAKESFront DiscRear Drum

Continued from page 11

first 5 digits must be taken as a groupto understand the part.

Digits 6 and 7 specify the nominaldiameter of the part. So digits 6 and7 having a 06 specify a 6 mm diame-ter.

Digits 8, 9, and 10 specify the nomi-nal length of the part. So a part withdigits 8, 9, and 10 designated as 100specifies a length of 100 mm.

Digits 11 and 12 specify the surfacetreatment of the part. The materialsare specified as follows:

Digit 11:0: High carbon steel.1. Carbon steel.3. Brass.

4. Stainless steel.Digit 12:A: Zinc plate (white).0: Zinc plate (white).B: Chrome plate.2: Chrome plate.C: Nickel plate.3: Nickel plate.H: Zinc plate (yellow).8: Zinc plate (yellow).J: Untreated.9: Untreated.G: Black.7: Black.M: Material.S: Surface treatment.For Nuts:9400x-xxMS0: Hex nut.

9401x-xxMS0: Castle nut.

94021-xxMS0: Cap nut.94021-xxxMS: Flare nut.941xx-xxS00: Flat washer.

94111-xxS00: Spring washer.

9425x-xxS00: Lock pin.

For Bolts, Screws, etc.:

945xx-xxxxx: Circlip

92xxx-xxxxx-MS: Hex bolt.



927xx-xxxxx-xM: Stud.

935xx-xxxxx-MS: Philips screw.



Now that you know the Honda partsnumber “secrets,” you can impressyour friends with instant identifica-tion of parts!

www.vjmc.org 15


Numbers: A guide to Honda part numbers


Happy holidays to all our readers! Here's to a great 2004!

Attention all members: If youmove, change addresses or

change e-mail addresses, pleasenotify the membership

chair as soon as possible. This isimportant.

Don't forget to check out theclassifieds section of the

magazine for dozens of bikes,parts, and miscellaneous

items for sale.

16 www.vjmc.org


The ins and outs of getting bikes in and out(of the country, that is)

by Dennis Caswell

There it is, the perfect motorcycle.It is just what you have been lookingfor. You can afford it; insurance isnot a problem. Unfortunately, it is notregistered in your home country, butit is registered in a foreign country. Isall lost? No.

This article will deal with how tobring a motorcycle into the UnitedStates or Canada.

Be warned, the proper procedurefor importing a motorcycle must befollowed. The penalties for failing todo so can be severe. There have beencases where people have tried tobring a motorcycle into the UnitedStates, only to have the motorcycleconfiscated at the border. At best, themotorcycle would be required to bere-exported. At worst, the motorcyclewould be confiscated and destroyed.Yet, from a personal note, I havethree motorcycles that I have im-ported into the United States fromCanada, and I have valid titles for allof them. These bikes were never soldwithin the United States, and elicitconsiderable attention when I ridethem.

You could hire a broker to take careof details, but following these proce-dures eliminates the need for a bro-ker. In importing the threeaforementioned motorcycles, I didnot use a broker. In addition to savinga considerable bit of money by notpaying broker fees, the feeling thatyou get by doing it yourself has to beexperienced. It is well worth the ef-fort. Here how to do it.

This article assumes that you will betaking the motorcycle across the bor-der yourself, and not using a shippingcompany. Shipping motorcycles is aseparate topic, and will not be dis-cussed here.

Importing vintage motorcycles intoCanada is a relatively simple matter.

In general, any motorcycle that is 15or more years old is permitted entryinto Canada. All you have to do at theborder is declare the motorcycle ashaving been purchased outside ofCanada, have a valid title, pay theGoods and Services Tax, and thenpay the Provincial Sales Tax (if appli-cable) when the motorcycle is regis-tered. That is all there is to it.

Bringing a motorcycle into theUnited States is not quite so simple.There are essentially two documentsthat are required, but getting these isnot a trivial matter.

As a first step, once the motorcyclehas been selected, you must contactthe manufacturer in the exportingcountry. Explain that you wish topurchase a used motorcycle fromtheir country, and wish to export it tothe United States. You will need theVehicle Identification Number (VIN)of the motorcycle in question whenyou contact the manufacturer. Youwill need to obtain a letter from themanufacturer indicating that the mo-

torcycle specified by the VIN will orwill not comply with United StatesFederal Motor Vehicle Safety Stan-dards (FMVSS), and EnvironmentalProtection Agency (EPA) standards.Usually, motorcycles will complywith FMVSS standards with minorlabeling discrepancies, and may ormay not comply with EPA standards.The inor labeling discrepancies usu-ally indicates that the speedome-ter/odometer indicates kilometersinstead of miles. Generally this is nota problem, as a vehicle that has aspeedometer that registers kilometersstill is acceptable.

Some of the smaller manufacturersmay not be used to doing this. In onecase (for a trailer), I had to personallyvisit the manufacturer to obtain therequired letter.

If the FMVSS standards are met,then you can obtain the HS/7 form. Ingeneral, box 2B is checked; however,

Make a list, check it twice

Here is a checklist of forms and documents you will need to import amotorcycle into the United States:______ Original registration card______ Bill of sale______ Letter of compliance from manufacturer______ Completed and stamped HS/7 form______ Completed and stamped EPA 3520 form______ Proof of insurance______ Safety inspection certificate (if applicable)______ Proof of residency (usually a local driver permit)

See pages 18-20 for copies of the HS/7 and EPA 3520 forms.Once you have all these documents, obtaining a registration card andlicense plate should be a straightforward, if not simple procedure.

See Importing, page 17

www.vjmc.org 17


if the motorcycle is more than 25years old, then box 1 may be used in-stead.

The second piece of required docu-mentation is the EPA 3520 form. Ifthe manufacturer letter indicates thatthe motorcycle is in compliance, thenthere is no problem, and box EE isused. If the motorcycle is NOT incompliance, and is less than 21 yearsold, then it must be brought into com-pliance. This is a long and tediousprocedure that can involve expense inexcess of the purchase price of themotorcycle. Generally, vintage mo-torcycles are more than 21 years old,so box E can be used.

The EPA 3520 form is not requiredfor trailers, as they are non-motorizedvehicles, and hence are exempt fromEPA requirements.

United States Customs has indi-cated this procedure is being simpli-fied, but my experience indicates thatthese two forms are still required. In-sist on them at the port of entry.Speaking of port of entry, this doesnot need to be at a frontier. There arenumerous ports of entry locatedthroughout the United States. As amatter of interest, I went through theprocedure of getting the forms com-pleted for two of my motorcycles inBaltimore, Maryland, and the thirdbike in Newark, New Jersey.

Once you have these two forms,then you may legally import the mo-torcycle and secure insurance for it.As a final point, I strongly recom-mend having the bill of sale com-puted in United States currency.This will simplify paying sales taxwhen registering the bike. See thechart on page 16 for a checklist that Iused in preparation for a visit to thedepartment of motor vehicles. Goodluck.

Importing: How tomake sure your bike

comes home


Buy it now–confessions of anEbay addict

by Karen McElhaney

I’m not the only one. I know this be-cause I recognize your user names(“luuceal” – has outbid me on almostevery Honda CB400F up for auctionthis year). And I’ve chatted with you,usually in the comfortably anonymousworld of email. Some of us have be-come the best of friends, and hardly aweek goes by without a discussionabout the latest repair attempt or thequest du jour for that discontinued part.We are all addicted to eBay, that cyberMecca for NOS and other impossi-ble-to-find vintage motorcycle partsand even complete bikes. In just thelast two years, I have personally pur-chased no fewer than 11 motorcyclesand countless side covers, air filters,fuel tanks, points assemblies, throttlecables, fenders, and miscellaneousother parts that just might come inhandy someday – all through the magicof the internet auction. I have also man-aged to spend a small fortune.

It all started innocently enough.There was a spare Jeep wheel that Iwanted to get rid of, and when itfailed to sell in the local classifieds, Idecided to try the new internet auc-tion site that I’d heard about. “I’ll justcheck out this eBay thing; I’ve gotnothing to loose,” I naively thought.The Jeep wheel eventually sold, butduring the auction process I discov-ered that there were lots of treasuresto be bought this way, too. A curios-ity about antiques motivated longhours of surfing for things that Inever knew existed before this limit-less virtual mall appeared at my fin-gertips. I discovered that I had a realaffinity for all things Art Deco in de-sign – Telechron clocks, Bakelitekitchenware, vintage French posters,and Fada radios for example. In fact,I now have reasonably impressivecollections of all these things, most ofwhich are on “tasteful display” at myhome and office.

The real problem began when I ac-cidentally stumbled into an auctionfor a 1969 Triumph Bonneville.“Umm...didn’t know there were mo-torcycles for sale here,” I casuallynoted, clicking on the View Seller’sOther Auctions button. But anotherhalf hour of surfing led to a listing fora Husky dirt bike, and I was hooked.The purchase of that first eBay bike, a1977 Husky 250CR, took about amonth of research, auction watching,and conscience wrangling. “I can’tafford this. Where will I keep it?What happens if it needs repair?”were all legitimate questions thatkept me awake at night. “But it’ssooo pretty – that mirrored red tank isflawless. It’s the bike I alwayswanted and never owned. I can keepit at my parent’s house.” Such are therationalizations than finally won out.So $1800 and a chilly March trip tonorthern Illinois later, I was the proudowner of a new vintage bike.

It didn’t take long to realize that rid-ing alone was nothing like the child-hood experience of riding with theother kids in the neighborhood, so Ireasoned that this was a good enoughexcuse to procure another bike for myfriend. The next thing to catch my eyewas a gorgeous 1976 Honda XL250, aone-year-only model that was allegedto be in low-mileage, all-original con-dition. Its acquisition would necessi-tate a trip to the Midwest, but therewere relatives to visit along the way,so why not? The auction was won andthe bike procured during a whirlwindholiday weekend trip to Kansas Cityvia St. Louis, complete with an excur-sion to the St. Louis Arch, visits tothree brewpubs and a jazz festival, andhalf of a Royals game.

“Nope,” said Linda matter-of-factly, looking at the near-mint con-dition of the sapphire blue Honda.“Ain’t gonna ride it. It’s too nice, and

See Ebay, page 22

US Departmentof TransportationNational Highway

Traffic Safety

Administration

— D E C L A R A T I O N —Importation of Motor Vehicles and Motor Vehicle Equipment Subject to

Federal Motor Vehicle Safety, Bumper and Theft Prevention Standards

OMB No. 2127-0002Public Law 100—562,15 USC 301

PORT OF ENTRY CUSTOMS PORT CODE CUSTOMS ENTRY NO ENTRY DATE

MAKE OF VEHICLE MODEL YEAR VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER (VIN)

| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |REGISTERED IMPORTER NAME AND NHTSA REGISTRATION NUMBER (Required when Box 3 is checked) VEHICLE ELIGIBILITY NO. (Box 3)

DESCRIPTION OF MERCHANDISE IF MOTOR VEHICLE EQUIPMENT

~1. The vehicle is 25 or more years old or the equipment item was manufactured on adate when no applicable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety, or Theft Prevention Standardwas in effect. [591.5(i)]

~2A. The vehicle, chassis-cab or equipment item conforms with all applicable FederalMotor Vehicle Safety Standards (or the vehicle does not conform solely becausereadily attachable equipment items which will be attached to it before it is offered forsale to the first purchaser for purposes other than resale are not attached), andBumper and Theft Prevention Standards, and bears a certification label or tag to thateffect permanently affixed by the original manufacturer to the vehicle or chassis-cab,or affixed by the manufacturer to the equipment item or its delivery container inaccordance with applicable National Highway Traffic SafetyAdministration (NHTSA)regulations [591.5(b)]; or

Attachment: For chassis-cab entry, see Box 9.

~2B. The vehicle conforms with all applicable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards ofCanada and the United States except for minor labeling requirements, and I amimporting it for personal use.

Attachment: Copy of manufacturer's confirmation letter.

~3. The vehicle does not conform with all applicable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety andBumper Standards, but does conform with applicable Federal Theft PreventionStandards, but I am eligible to import it because NHTSA has determined that themodel and model year of the vehicle to be imported is eligible for importation into theUnited States and I have furnished a bond, which is attached to this declaration, inan amount equal to 150 percent of the entered value of the vehicle as determined bythe Secretary of the Treasury. If the Administrator of NHTSA determines that thevehicle has not been brought into compliance with all such standards within 120 daysafter importation, then I state that I will deliver such vehicle to the Secretary of theTreasury for export, or abandon it to the United States [591.8]; and that

a. I have registered with NHTSA pursuant to 49 CFR Part 592 and such registrationhas not been revoked or suspended; or

b. I have executed a contract or other agreement, which is attached to thisdeclaration, with an importer who has registered with NHTSAand whose registrationhas not been suspended or revoked. [591.5(f)]

Attachments: Copy of DOT Bond; andCopy of Contract with a Registered Importer, if applicable.

~4. The vehicle or equipment does not comply with all applicable Federal Motor VehicleSafety, Bumper and Theft Prevention Standards, but is intended solely for export andis labeled for export on the vehicle or equipment item, and the outside of anycontainer of the vehicle or equipment item bears a label or tag to that effect.[591.5(c)]

~5. The vehicle or equipment does not comply with all applicable Federal Motor VehicleSafety, Bumper and Theft Prevention Standards, but I am eligible to import itbecause:

a. I am a nonresident of the United States and the vehicle is registered in a countryother than the United States;

b. I am temporarily importing the vehicle for personal use for a period not to exceedI year, and will not sell it during that time; and

c. I will export it not later than the end of 1 year after entry, and the declarationcontains my passport number and country of issue. [591.5(d)]

d. Passport No. ___________________ Country of Issue ___________________

~6. The vehicle does not conform with all applicable Federal Motor Vehicle SafetyStandards, but I am eligible to import it because:

a. I am a member of the foreign government on assignment in the United States, ora member of the Secretariat of a public international organization so designatedunder the International Organizations ImmunitiesAct, and within the class of personsfor who free entry of motor vehicle has been authorized by the Department of State;

b. I am importing the motor vehicle on a temporary basis for my personal use, andwill register it through the Office of Foreign Missions of the Department of State;

c. I will not sell the vehicle to any person in the United States, other than a personeligible to import a vehicle under this paragraph;

d. I will obtain from the Office of Foreign Missions of the State Department, beforedeparting the United States at the conclusion of a tour of duty, an ownership title tothe vehicle good for export only; and

e. I have attached a copy of my official orders. [591.5(h)(1)]

Name of Embassy: ___________________________________________________

Attachment: Copy of Official Orders.

~7. The vehicle or equipment does not comply with all Federal Motor Vehicle Safety andBumper Standards, but is being imported solely for the purpose of research,investigations, show or display, demonstrations or training, or competitive racing events,and I state that I will comply with the applicable restrictions on importers of suchmerchandise [591.7] and I will provide the Administrator with documentary proof ofexport or destructions not later than 30 days following the end of the period for whichthe vehicle has been admitted into the United States. [591.5(j)]

Attachment:

a. Copy of NHTSA permission letter if the importer is not an original manufacturerof motor vehicles (or a wholly owned subsidiary thereof) that are certified to complywith all applicable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS). Use on thepublic roads must be authorized specifically. [591.6(f)(1) or (2)];

b. Importer's statement describing the use to be made of the vehicle or equipmentitem if the importer is an original manufacturer of motor vehicles (or a wholly ownedsubsidiary thereof) that are certified to comply with all applicable FMVSS. If use onthe public roads is an integral part of the purpose for which the vehicle or equipmentitem is imported, the statement shall describe the purpose which makes such usenecessary, state the estimated period of time during which use of the vehicle orequipment item on the public roads is necessary, and state the intended means offinal disposition (and disposition date) of the vehicle or equipment item aftercompletion of the purpose for which it is imported. [591.6(f)(3)]

~8. This vehicle was not manufactured primarily for use on the public roads and thus isnot a motor vehicle subject to the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety, Bumper and TheftPrevention Standards or the equipment item is not a system, part, or component ofa motor vehicle and thus is not an item of motor vehicle equipment subject to theFederal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. [591.5(a)]

Attachment: Importer's substantiating statement. [591.6(a)]

~9. The vehicle or equipment item requires further manufacturing operations to performits intended function, other than the addition of readily attachable equipment itemssuch as mirrors, wipers, or tire and rim assemblies, or minor finishing operationssuch as painting, and any part of such vehicle that is required to be marked by Part541 of this chapter is marked in accordance with that part. [591.5(e)]

Attachment: Statement issued by the manufacturer of the incomplete vehicle,chassis-cab or equipment item which indicates the applicable Federal Motor VehicleSafety Standard(s) with which the vehicle or equipment item is not in compliance, andwhich describes the further manufacturing required. [591.6(b)]

~10. Reserved

~11. The equipment item is subject to the Theft Prevention Standard and is marked inaccordance with the requirements of 49 CFR 541. [591.5(k)]

~12. The vehicle does not conform with all applicable Federal Motor Vehicle SafetyStandards, but I am eligible to import it because:

a. I am a member of the armed forces of a foreign country on assignment in theUnited States;

b. I am importing the vehicle on a temporary basis, and for my personal use;

c. I will not sell the vehicle to any person in the United States;

d. I will export the vehicle upon departing the United States at the conclusion of a tourof duty; and

e. I have attached a copy of my of official orders. [591.5(h)(2)]

Attachment: Copy of Official Orders.

NAME OF IMPORTER (Please type) IMPORTER'S ADDRESS (Street, City, State, Zip Code)

NAME OF DECLARANT {Please type) DECLARANT'S ADDRESS (Street, City, State, Zip Code)

DECLARANT'S CAPACITY DECLARANT'S SIGNATURE DATE SIGNED

HS-7 (Rev. 9-99) OVER75124 –M34d

Form Approved OMB 2060-0095 Approval Expires 8/31/03

United States Environmental Protection Agency

Declaration Form

Importation of Motor Vehicles and Motor Vehicle Engines Subject to Federal Air Pollution RegulationsU.S. E.P.A., Certification & Compliance Division (6405-J), 1200 Pennsylvania Ave. N.W., Washington D.C. 20460 http://www.epa.gov/otaq/imports Faxback System: (202) 564-9660

This form must be submitted to the U.S. Customs Service (Customs) (42 USC 7522, 7601: 19 CFR 12.73) for each motor vehicle (including

motorcycles, disassembled vehicles, kit cars) and heavy-duty engine (generally, any engine used in a motor vehicle having a gross vehicle weight

rating of greater than 8500 Ibs.) imported into the U.S., except that this form is not required for motor vehicles and heavy-duty engines that are

imported by their original manufacturer and are new and are covered by an EPA certificate of conformity and bear an EPA emission control label.

However one form per shipment may be used, with attachments including all information required to fully describe each vehicle or engine as

below. Check the box below indicating the provisions under which you are importing this vehicle or engine. Before using this form for an offroad

vehicle (code X), the importer must verify that its engine is not subject to nonroad requirements shown on form 3520-21. Note: Although only

code L imports require specific written authorization from EPA, Customs may request EPA review of importer documentation and el igibility for

any import using this form. A nonconforming vehicle that is ineligible for the exemptions or exclusions listed below, must be imported through

an independent commercial importer (ICI) under codes A, C, J, or Z - EPA does not authorize the vehicle’s release to the vehicl e owner.

Penalties: Any person who knowingly makes any false or fraudulent statement, or omits or conceals a material fact can be fined up to $250,000 orimprisoned for up to 5 years, or both (18 USC 1001). Any person who improperly imports a motor vehicle (including a motorcycle) or heavy-duty engine maybe fined up to $27,500 per vehicle or engine (42 USC 7524), and may be subject to forfeiture of the entire importation bond, if applicable (40 CFR 85.1513),and the U.S. Customs Service may seize the vehicle or engine (19 CFR 162.21).

Description and Declaration of Motor Vehicle or Motor Vehicle Engine

1. Port code: 2. Entry date: 3. Customs entry number: 4. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), or engine and chassis serial no. for HD engine:

5. Manufacture date (mo/yr): 6. Manufacturer (make): 7. Model:

8. ICI imports only, codes A, C, J, Z - EPA no., model year and expiration date of applicable certificate:

Names, Addresses, and Telephone Numbers of Relevant PartiesCertification: I certify that I have read and understand the purpose of this form, the penalties for falsely declaring information, or for providing misleading information,or for concealing a material fact. The information I have provided is correct, and all required attachments are appended to this form. I authorize EPA EnforcementOfficers to conduct inspections or testing permitted by the Clean Air Act. I am the owner, importer, or agent for the owner or importer.

9. Importer (must be ICI forcodes A, C, J, Z):

10. Owner: 11. Storage location: 12. Signature:

13. Date:

14. Name, company and phone (type or print):

U.S. conforming and “identical” vehiclesG code B - U.S. certified - unmodified vehicle bearing a U.S. EPA emission control label in engine compartment (or on motorcycle frame) in English.

G code F - U.S. certified, catalyst restoration - U.S. certified vehicle as described above, except that the catalyst, oxygen sensors or fuel filler neckrestrictor were removed or damaged. The importer attests that the catalyst and oxygen sensors and fuel filler neck restrictor, as applicable, will be re-installedor replaced after importation. If leaded gasoline was used, the importer attests that after importation (1) the fuel tank will be drained and refilled with unleadedgasoline, (2) the catalyst and oxygen sensors, if they were left on the vehicle during use of the leaded gasoline, will be replaced, and (3) the fuel filler neckrestrictor will be checked and replaced as necessary. No bond or EPA approval is required.

G code EE - identical in all material respects to a U.S. certified version - either 1) Canadian vehicle (proof required e.g. Canadian emission control label,registration or title, or letter from the U.S. or Canadian manufacturer representative on letterhead verifying manufacture for sale in Canada) on EPA list ofCanadian "identical" models, or 2) vehicle from any country with letter attached to this form from the manufacturer’s U.S. representative on letterhead (not adealer or mechanic) stating that the vehicle is identical to a U.S. EPA certified version with respect to emissions. The importer attests that vehicle is beingimported for purposes other than resale or lease. For import of “identical” Canadian vehicles for resale, use code FF.

G code FF - Canadian “identical” models imported for resale or lease - Canadian vehicle as described above appearing on EPA list of Canadian“identical” models, imported for resale or lease. The importer attests that the importer will satisfy applicable labeling, warranty and CAFÉ requirements asspecified by EPA.

EPA exempted vehiclesG code M - miscellaneous exemption, either 1) Canadian vehicle as described above (proof required) and the importer is either permanently emigrating tothe U.S. or will reside in the U.S. for greater than one year under a worker or student visa, or 2) Canadian vehicle received by U.S. resident throughinheritance, or 3) EPA hardship letter based on unforseen and extraordinary circumstances is attached to this form.

G code E - vehicle or engine at least 21 years old (calendar year of manufacture subtracted from year of importation) and in original unmodifiedconfiguration is either exempted or excluded from EPA emission requirements, depending on age. Customs may require proof of vehicle age.

EPA Form 3520-1 (Rev. 11-01) Previous editions are obsolete Pg 1 of 2

United StatesEnvironmental Protection Agency

Washington, DC 20460

Excluded vehiclesG code L - racing vehicle as determined by EPA and may not be registered or licensed for use on or operated on public roads or highways (40 CFR85.1511(e)). EPA letter of approval must be attached to this form.

G code U - motorcycle, scooter or moped with engine displacement less than 50cc and with rated speed greater than 5000 rpm.

G code W - non-chassis-mounted engine to be used in a light-duty vehicle or light-duty truck or motorcycle.

G code X - offroad vehicle not subject to nonroad requirements shown on EPA form 3520-21, including motorcycles, multi-purpose vehicles, or heavy-duty engines for use in, or installed in an offroad vehicle, imported in accordance with 40 CFR 85.1703. Importer must attach proof that vehicle lacks safety orother features required for safe and practical street operation, including evidence of inordinate size or weight preventing highway use. The vehicle may not beregistered for, or licensed for, or capable of use on, or operated on the public roads or highways. Multi-purpose vehicles capable of being operated on thepublic roads or highways may not be imported using this code, regardless of intended use.

G code Y - unregulated fuel - a vehicle or heavy-duty engine that: (1) for model years earlier than 1991 operates on fuel other than gasoline or diesel fuel, or(2) for 1991- 1996 model years operates on fuel other than gasoline or diesel or methanol fuel, or (3) for 1997 and later model years operates on fuel otherthan gasoline or diesel or methanol or compressed natural gas (CNG) or liquid petroleum gas (LPG), including propane.

Temporary importsG code G - imported for repair or alteration in accordance with 40 CFR 85.1511(b)(1). May not be registered or licensed for use on, or operated on publicroads or highways, or sold or leased in the U.S. Customs bond required. EPA requests that the vehicle be bonded for at least its full value.

G code I - imported for testing purposes in accordance with 40 CFR 85.1511(b)(2). May not be registered or licensed for use on or operated on public roadsor highways (except operation that is integral to the purpose of the testing program) or sold or leased in the U.S. Customs bond required. EPA requests thatthe vehicle be bonded for at least its full value.

G code K - imported for display (solely for public or business purposes, and not for private purposes or U.S. market sales promotions) in accordance with 40CFR 85.1511(b)(4). May not be registered or licensed for use on or operated on public roads or highways (except operation that is integral to the purpose ofthe display) or sold or leased in the U.S. Customs bond required. EPA requests that the vehicle be bonded for at least its full value.

G code N - imported for a period up to one year by member of the armed forces or personnel of a foreign government on assignment to the U.S., for whomfree entry has been authorized in writing by the U.S. Department of State, or a member of the armed forces of a foreign country with official orders for duty inthe U.S.

G code O - imported by nonresident for personal use by an individual for a period up to a year.

Independent commercial importer (ICI) importsG code A - imported by an ICI for modifications in accordance with a valid EPA certificate of conformity issued for the specific make, model, and model yearin accordance with 40 CFR 85.1505.

G code C - imported by an ICI for modification and testing in accordance with 40 CFR 85.1509. Vehicle or heavy-duty engine must be at least 6 years old.

G code J - imported by an ICI for the purpose of pre-certification testing in order to obtain an EPA certificate of conformity. No EPA a pproval is required.The ICI has 180 days to obtain a certificate or export (40 CFR 85.1511(b)(3)). Customs bond required.

G code Z - imported by an ICI for the purpose of modifying to be identical to an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) certified version in accordance withwritten instructions from the OEM that are specific to the vehicle or heavy-duty engine being imported.

OEM importsG code H - imported, owned, and controlled directly by an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) on EPA list of OEM certificate holders provided toCustoms, for research, development or testing purposes in accordance with 40 CFR 85.1706. This is a temporary exemption without time limit. If the vehicleis subsequently covered by an applicable EPA certificate of conformity, it is released from the restrictions of this exemption.

G code Q - imported, owned, and controlled directly by an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) on EPA list of OEM certificate holders provided toCustoms, for storage pending receipt of the applicable EPA certificate of conformity, which is pending and imminent. Use of t his code is no longer permittedonce EPA has issued the applicable certificate of conformity.

Paperwork Reduction Act NoticeThis information is collected to ensure that motor vehicles and engines imported into the U.S. conform with applicable emission requirements. Responses to thiscollection are mandatory (40 CFR 85.1501 et seq., and Clean Air Act Sections 203 and 208). Information submitted to the Agency under a claim of confidentiality willbe safeguarded according to policies set forth in Title 40, Chapter 1, Part 2, Subpart B. The public reporting and recordkeeping burden for this collection of informationis estimated to average 30 minutes per response. Burden means the total time, effort, or financial resources expended by persons to generate, maintain, retain, ordisclose or provide information to or for a Federal agency. This includes the time needed to review instructions; develop, acquire, install, and utilize technology andsystems for the purposes of collecting, validating, and verifying information, processing and maintaining information, and disclosing and providing information; adjustthe existing ways to comply with any previously applicable instructions and requirements; train personnel to be able to respond to a collection of information; searchdata sources; complete and review the collection of information; and transmit or otherwise disclose the information. An agency may not conduct or sponsor, and aperson is not required to respond to, a collection of information unless it displays a currently valid OMB control number. Send comments on the Agency's need for thisinformation, the accuracy of the provided burden estimates, and any suggested methods for minimizing respondent burden, including through the use of automatedcollection techniques to the Director, Collection Strategies Division, U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (2822), 1200 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, D.C.20460. Include the OMB control number in any correspondence. Do not send the completed form to this address.

EPA Form 3520-1 (Rev. 11-01) Previous editions are obsolete Pg 2 of 2

www.vjmc.org 21


How to buy a vintage bike–a checklist

by Adam GlassReprinted with permission

The following checklist is a generalguide for evaluating a used motorcy-cle. Complete details can be found atMr. Glass’ web site. The latest ver-sion is available at: http://www.clar-ity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html.

Copyright © 1998-2002 AdamGlass. All rights reserved. Distribu-tion or publication of this document(electronic or otherwise) is prohib-ited without the express written con-sent of the author. For moreinformation or to request permission

to publish this document, please con-tact the author at [email protected].

Terms and conditions of usage–im-portant information:

The information contained in thisdocument is provided at no cost andwithout any warranty whatsoever.The author and contributors are notresponsible for any errors containedherein, and make no claims whatso-ever as to the legality, safety, validity,or veracity of the information and ad-vice contained in this document. In-deed, many of the techniquesdescribed herein are extremely dan-gerous and should not be performed

except by factory-trained mechanics.The information contained in thisdocument is provided for entertain-ment purposes only, and is not in anyway a guarantee that the motorcycleyou buy will be functional, safe or us-able, or that you (or others) will notbe seriously injured or killed by at-tempting to follow said information.All riders should have a fac-tory-trained, professional mechanicinspect any motorcycle before pur-chasing or riding it. Any use of the in-formation contained in this document

See Checklist, page 31

22 www.vjmc.org


I don’t wanna ruin your new bike.Besides, I’ve never ridden sober any-way.” “Well, geez, then, what are wegonna do?” I inquired. “I don’t know,but I don’t want to be responsible forthat bike.” Two more weeks of auc-tion hunting, and a not-so-nice 1975XL250 was on its way to Knoxvillefrom the Nevada desert.

So now, only a couple of months af-ter the gut wrenching decision to bidon the Husky, there were three vintage250cc bikes in my garage. “This is al-most a collection,” I laughed. “It’s aw-fully biased toward off-road riding,though. What if I wanted to ride a biketo work?” I joked. Uh oh. Now an-other seed had been planted. I hadn’tridden on pavement since 1987 when Ihad sold the reptile-like SuzukiGS550, but I decided that I was proba-bly over the “asphalt incident,” andbesides, it would be cool to have anold bike that I could actually use.

A beautiful orange 1975 CB550FSuper Sport was up for auction inFlorida, and when it didn’t meet thereserve price, the seller and I made adeal. Another trip, another bike. Butthis one didn’t want to run. Great.Now I had this potentially incrediblebike, but there were carburetor is-sues. And it needed a new fuel tank.And a new exhaust header. And amatching tachometer. That’s how theparts collection began. It turns outthat eBay is a nothing more than a gi-ant online swap meet – with searchcapability! No more rummagingthrough bins of unmarked parts orwinding through acres of vendorbooths. With some luck and a lot ofpatience, I discovered that almostanything can be found on eBay. Infact, after a year of collecting, I ac-quired enough parts for an almostcomplete restoration of the CB550F,having by then fallen into the “stonesoup” trap of, “It could be so muchbetter if I just had those NOSshocks.”

The new dilemma, of course, was thatI had decided that I wanted a road bike,and the Super Sport didn’t run. “I needsomething to ride,” I moaned. “Theweather is perfect, and the 550 is justtaking up space in the garage. I have tofind something that I can ride to work.”The pristine 1968 CL350 Scrambler inPennsylvania seemed harmlessenough, and with the bidding acceler-ating at an uncomfortably rapid pace, Itook the plunge and clicked the Buy ItNow icon. “Not a bad deal,” the rivalbidder from Florida applauded. “WishI had done that. Will you sell it to mewhen you tire of it?” “No way,” Ismirked, but the inquiry resulted in aseries of email exchanges about hiscollection and my growing one, and wehave since become good buddies.

Having never before experiencedthe vibration inherent in Honda’stwo-cylinder engine configuration,that first long trip on the CL350 wasquite – interesting. That’s a politeway of saying that my rear end didnot acclimate well to the ride. “Thisbike’s too small,” I complained,knowing full well that I had just set

sights on the big red SuzukiGS1100E that had been the object ofmy desire back in 1983. “Now that’sa street machine. It’ll probably onlygo for $2500 or so; not too bad. Plus,it’s in Virginia, and that’s an easyday’s ride to go get it.” And so it wasthat the Suzuki was procured.

At this point, the neighbors had be-gun to talk and my friends had startedwhispering accusations about my san-ity. “What in the world do you needwith all those bikes?” whined Kathy.“You have lost your mind. Is this amid-life crisis?” Everyone knew, ofcourse, that this wasn’t likely the case,considering the string of convertiblesports cars that had graced my garageperiodically for the last 20 years. Thedifference was that those had only ap-peared one at a time. Now there weresix bikes in the garage. My observationthat the garage was “clearly not bigenough” was only met with an icy stareand a suggestion to collect somethingsmaller. By this time, though, the mo-mentum had increased to the point thatI was determined that it was going to bea collection, dangit, and to this end,

Ebay: Common sense going, going, gone


The eBay glove - a special scheme to bid faster?

www.vjmc.org 23


there had to be additions. “What’s acollection without a CB400F, or thefirst real super bike, Honda’s CB750?”I argued. And those became the nexteBay conquests.

At its peak, the collection hasswelled to a dozen motorcycles.Somewhere along the way, a brandnew 2003 Honda 919 was added,mostly as a result of spending toomuch time at the Honda dealer’sshowroom, waiting on the parts clerkto do a computer search for some fuelcap gasket or another obscure partthat had to be found. A momentarylapse into good sense (and the arrivalof the credit card bill) precipitated thesale of the Suzuki and the ’76 XL250.A couple of others will probablyeventually be offered, too, since evenI can’t justify having two vintageCB750s from the same model year.The guilt associated with havingthree cars baking in the swelteringsouthern sun instead of living com-fortably inside the climate controlledgarage has occasionally reared itsugly head, too, and it has become ap-

parent that some compromise isgoing to have to be made.

So that’s the situation. The vintagebike museum is already overflowingand I’m trying to figure out what todo once the restored CB550F returnsand all the trips to the mechanic arefinished. Miscellaneous parts – manyfor models that I don’t even own – arespilling over the basement shelves.Bank accounts are dwindling, and themoney I’ve spent on repair bills isstaggering. The Tacoma probably hasan additional 5000 miles on its odom-eter from trips to Wisconsin, NewJersey, Kansas, Virgina, Georgia, Il-linois, and Pennsylvania. But theurge to check the New Today listingsstill exists. Who knows, for instance,when that perfect Yamaha RD400Daytona Special or Honda SuperHawk will come up for bid? I thinkthat I will start an eBay Anonymoustherapy group, and charge admissionto the other beleaguered addicts. Thatway, I can pocket a little extra cash,just in case I can’t resist that ElsinoreMT125 that’s closing next week.

VJMC NationalRally Survey

1. If you have never attended aVJMC National Rally, why not?What would encourage you to attendfuture Rallies?

2. If you did not attend the 2003VJMC National Rally, but have at-tended a Rally in the past, why didn’tyou attend this year?

3. What events and activities shouldbe included in the Rally?

4. Would you be willing to present aseminar at a future Rally? If so, onwhat topic?

5. Do you think there should bemultiple VJMC Rallies in differentregions of the country? If so, whereand when?

6. What length for a Rally is reason-able? What schedule would workbest for you?

Optional Information:

Name: ______________________Address: ____________________

________________________________________

Email: ______________________Phone: ______________________

Please mail your responses to:Pete Boody, National Rally Chair-

man102 Foxwood CircleOliver Springs, TN 37840or email: [email protected].

Remember, it takes your help andparticipation to make each NationalRally better for all of us!

24 www.vjmc.org


ClassifiedsRemember that a ‘Vintage Japa-

nese’ motorcycle is 15 years or older(cut-off for this year is 1988) and,well, Japanese. Please be aware thatads may be edited to conserve space.Don’t feel reluctant to use punctua-tion and proper case on emailed ads.

Be mindful of publication dead-lines. Ads are due by the 20th of themonth in which a newsletter is issuedfor the NEXT newsletter. For exam-ple, ads for the February magazinewill be due to the editor by December20th.

Send all ads to:Gary Gadd3721 Holland St.Ft. Worth, TX., 76180(817) 284-8195or e-mail: [email protected]

For Sale

Bridgestone

1960’s Bridgestone B5. Step-through (Homer) for parts. Barnfresh, no engine, chrome pitted, butplastic fender and leg shields good.Also good seat, speedo, lights, chaincase. Will not separate. Must bepicked up. $50.

Dennis Doherty, (440) 878-3793,Cleveland, [email protected]

1971 Bridgestone 200. Basket case.Bike was disassembled in mid-70’sand never put back together.

Ken Hill, (309) 496-2676,Hampton, [email protected]

Honda

For Honda: Books. Clymer, Honda125-200cc Twins 1964-1977, still inshrink wrap. $15 + postage. Clymer,CB750 SOHC Fours, 1969-1978,like new. $10 + Postage. 2 Intertec

Books. $10 for both + postage. Bothin very good shape, no grease, nopen/pencil marks or folds. Like new.#1 How to fix your Honda, 350 to1000 cc, 4 cylinder motorcycle. #2How to fix your Honda, 124 to 305two cylinder motorcycle.

Mike, Central [email protected]

For Honda 250/305, repro Honda300 tank badges (plastic ones) in threegrades: $95 to $150 pair delivered.Restoration Guides for 250-305ccbikes (all models) in Adobe PDF for-mat CDROMs: $25-45 each. Go towww.vintagehonda.com for moreinfo.

Bill “MrHonda” Silver, (808)325-1655, Kailua Kona, [email protected]

For Honda C102, Plastic leg shield,$425. Front cowling, $15. New frontfender, $25. New side covers, $15each, used for $10 each. Seat, muf-fler, exhaust pipe, headlight, new ca-bles.

Walter Kimmel, (718) 851-1237,Brooklyn, New York

For Honda CA95/S65/CB160,parts. Lots of stuff some NOS. Chainguards, speedos, tanks, fenders,switches. Parts ain’t doing no goodaround here. Even got some 160stuff.

Paul Enz, Titusville, Florida,[email protected]

1965 Honda S90. Project bike. Rarecandy red with silver fenders. Par-tially disassembled rolling chassis.Many NOS parts. Good running,clean engine. Restored seat with cor-rect logo. Too much to list. $1200.See our BIKES4SALE Gallery at:http://www.coolretrobikes.com.

T D Bash, (727) 321-5085, St. Pe-tersburg, [email protected]

For 1965 Honda 305 Dream, parts.Years of accumulated parts. Tworolling frames, a few fair seats, 8complete engines, a few front fend-ers, two nice tanks, a box of chrometank panels, some fair mufflers andheader pipes. There are a few shelvesfull of assorted parts. Also have acomplete Super Hawk parts bike infair condition, disassembled. Want tosell as a complete lot, and will notseparate. Bring your truck and take itall. I have lost interest. No new parts,and very few “Prime” parts. Make anoffer.

Bill Hisle, (502) 633-6481, Louis-ville, [email protected]

For Honda CB77, NOS stator assy,#31100-268-810, $200. Will tradefor Dell’Orto carbs, modelsAU/UB/MB 15-22 mm choke sizes.

Pat Guagenti, (847) 328-5789

1967 Honda CL77 Scrambler.Complete but needs extensive resto-ration. Will sell whole (no title), orpart out.

Frank Koeller, (201) 385-7229(evenings), Dumont, New Jersey,[email protected]

1970/82 Honda. I have 250 Hondasin 350cc to 900cc range that must besold. Average price $100 each. I onlyhave a few with titles; most are partsmachines. Buy one or make offer onthem all. Email is good. I will sendeasy directions. I live in South-Cen-tral PA near the town of Roxbury.Exit 15 off the PA turnpike.

Stephen Horton, (717) 532-6147,Roxbury, [email protected]

1970/82 Honda 350/900cc. I have atrailer load of 35 CB350-360’s, 5CM400’s, 4 CB500 twins, 2 CB5004cyl, 4 CB550, 5 CB650 including 2Nighthawks, 15 CB750, and 2CB900s; one is 10-speed. I have notitles, but have a lot of good parts. If

www.vjmc.org 25


Classifiedsyou need parts, now is the time tobuy. Quantity does get discount. Alsohave some NOS parts.

Steve Horton, (717) 532-6147,Roxbury, [email protected]

For Honda P50: Parts. Pair of use-able white fenders, $35. Fork withlinks, $20. Pair fork links with bush-ings, $10. Complete wire harnesswith all connectors, $15. Completefront 16-in. wheel. Not Honda, fitsperfectly with tire, tube, brake, axle,$25.


1974 Honda CL360. Blue, cleanestdaily rider you’ve seen. 18k miles.Windshield, new tires, battery andchain. True and clean rims, chromefenders, exhaust and seat. Everythingworks. $600.


Honda 360 twin. Spoke wheels,disc front. Mostly all there. Includeslots of another bike. Parts or buildcheap rider. $165. Could deliver rea-sonable distance for fuel, exceptNYC.

Bob MacCargar, PO Box 325, Dav-enport, New York, 13750

1975 Honda CB360T, rebuildableparts engine with approximately 12kmiles. The engine is complete exceptfor carbs. It was still running when Ipulled it from my current bike, butthe cam chain had jumped time. $50plus shipping. Would prefer buyer topick it up.

Roger Cole (302) 738-7873, North-ern Delaware, [email protected].

1976 Honda CB360T, gas tank, re-painted candy red. Includes petcockassembly. $100 plus shipping. Also,pair of matching side covers re-painted candy red. $25 plus shipping.Location: Photos available via email.

Roger Cole (302) 738-7873, North-

ern Delaware, [email protected].

1976 Honda CB550K. Real ugly.For sale or will part out. Has saddlebags, Windjammer fairing, fanny bagon luggage rack and radio. Theseitems are for sale also. I will keep thebike if I can find the following partsin like-new condition: seat, tank, ex-haust and mufflers, low handlebars.

Bob Ringgenberg, (513)779-6200/(513) 779-6201 fax, West

Chester, Ohio

1978 Honda XL100. Extensivelyrefurbished, 3100 miles, from longterm storage. New rings, valves,springs, guides, much more. Startsand runs good; looks super. Bill ofsale and ATV registration. Great forStarter (Christmas) or motor home.$875.

Bob MacCargar, PO Box 325, Dav-enport, New York, 13750

1979 Honda CB650. 35k mi., freshtop end, carburetors overhauled,looks and runs great! $995 firm.

Steve Meinders, (816) 628-6731,Kearney, [email protected]

1979 Honda CBX 1100. Awesomebike. Robin Egg blue. 5000 km onnew engine. Performance Machinerims. Custom exhaust pipe. No worknecessary-just ride. Asking $8500Canadian obo. Can email pictures tointerested parties.

Debi Dawson, (519) 650-5441,Cambridge, Ontario, [email protected]

1980 Honda Goldwing. Completeexcept passenger backrest padding.Not running. Needs carb work (Ithink). $1200.

Bob Hill, (540) 837-1033, Boyce,Virginia, [email protected]

1985 Honda Elite 250. Red, only6300 miles, rear trunk, windshield,new tires and tune up. Electric start,automatic transmission, runs great.$1300 obo.

Roger Sarow, (260) 691-2469, Co-lumbia City, Indiana

1987 Honda VFR700F2. By nomeans any beauty queen, everydaybike for the past 8 years, formerlyowned by Honda Tech, serviced ev-ery 8k by Honda tech, over 57k mile-age. Kerker exhaust, Race Techemulators, Sargent Seat, mega spareparts, ultra reliable. Stupidity forcessale. $1200 obo.

Pete Cline, (614) 563-8634, 1970West Broad St., Columbus, Ohio,43223

Kawasaki

1970 Kawasaki H1 500. Very nicecondition. New paint and seat cover,mirrors, tires, grips, pegs, decals,shocks. Painted white like a ‘69.Original pipes in very decent shape asare the fenders. Starts first kick. Hasoriginal air box. Comes with a 70 H1parts bike, manuals and some NOSbrake shoes. I have $5000 invested.$4000 obo.

Rallen Fontenot (337) 837-4682,Louisiana, [email protected]

1975 Kawasaki KH500. Completerestoration down last nut and bolt.This bike is absolutely beautiful. Noshipping. Can email detailed pics onrequest. Take a vacation and pick itup. $3500 firm or will trade up ordown for Yamaha RZ500 or YamahaSR500.

Roger, (352) 799-6697 & leavemessage, Brooksville, [email protected]

For Kawasaki H2, pair of Lestermag wheels. $150 each.

Jim Hayes, 4828 Tonnelle Ave.,#B39, North Bergen, New Jersey,07047

www.vjmc.org 27


ClassifiedsSuzuki

1962 Suzuki B100p 120cc. Rare,blue, in A-1 condition, only 4,000miles. Complete and original; evenhas the owners manual.

Donna, (250) 753-5087, Nanaimo,B.C., Canada

1964 Suzuki T10 250cc. Restoredto original condition. I can send pic-tures for review. Odometer reads3,135 miles. Bike runs and ridesgreat. Email for further details.

Mike Stecker, (414) 651-2047,Oconomowoc, [email protected]

Yamaha

Yamaha Two-Stroke Twins byColin MacKellar. 192 pages, coversall roadsters plus factory and produc-tion road racers from 1956 on. Thisbook is the Yamaha bible and is outof print.

Ron, (253) 538-7914 phone or(253) 538-7915 fax, West Coast

1965 Yamaha YA6 125cc. Partingout 2 bikes: Lots of decent partsavailable including tank badges andrare accessory rack. Contact withneeds.

B Samms, (208) 664-4462,[email protected]

1970 Yamaha R5 350cc. Slightlyfaded original purple and whitetwo-tone paint. Stock motor withelectronic ignition, aftermarket coils,DG expansion chambers, UNI air fil-ters, and re-jetting. A few small leaksand flaws, but overall a great bike.Please email or contact me for photosand further info. $1500 obo.

David Van Lue, (805) 886-3039,Santa Barbara, [email protected]

1972 Yamaha R5. 350 twin withoriginal Bates fairing and new pis-

tons. $995. Pictures available onrequest.

Bill Kasten, (715) 446-2225, NorthCentral Wisconsin

1973 Yamaha CT3 Enduro. Runsgood; includes title. $695. Picturesavailable on request.


1973 Yamaha 750. Kenny Robertsflat tracker built by Shell. Raced inUSA. Has Morris mag wheels &spoke wheels. Yellow with black &white stripes. Also set of tyres signedby Alex Jorgenson. Send email forphotos.

Steven Thomas, 0423290191, Syd-ney, [email protected]

1974 Yamaha TY250 trials. Nice,$1495. Pictures available on request.


Yamaha 650cc Maxim. Red &Chrome, 4-cylinder, shaft drive.With Mag wheels, luggage rack, backrest, windshield, cruise control,4-into-2 exhaust. Ready to ride. Justtuned up with new tires, fork sealsand carb boots. No seat tears, noscratches or dents and no rust or paintfade. Mint condition with shop man-ual and tool kit. $2,300.


1974 Yamaha TX750 gas tank, pre-vious owner spray painted it blue. Iused it for about two years beforefinding a near new one. No visibledings or wrinkles, but I suspect it hasbeen Bondoed. Comes with cap butno petcocks or lock. $35 plus ship-ping.


1974 Yamaha TX750, parts enginewith approximately 10k miles. The

engine turns over freely, but I’venever had it running. It’s all there ex-cept for the sump extension plate andthe electric starter components. The1974 engine has the adjustablecounterbalancer mechanism which ishighly desired by 1973 engine own-ers. $50 plus shipping. Would preferbuyer to pick it up.


1975 Yamaha RD350. Exceptionalin all respects, factory orange, 6K to-tal mileage. $1300 USD Firm.JPEG’s & details available.

Sam Simons, Ph/fx (765) 342-9689,[email protected]

1976 Yamaha XS650. Built by ARStreetrackers (now known as Robin-son Streetrackers). Completely re-built from the frame up. Brakes,suspension, engine and every otherpart reconditioned and upgraded. Re-painted, re-chromed, powder coatedand polished. Incredibly well done; areal jewel. Great riding bike thatturns heads wherever I ride it. Moredetailed info and pictures available.$4500.

Walter Nash, (520) 444-1510, Tuc-son, [email protected]

1978 Yamaha XS650 Standard.Has title and runs but needs work.Would be good for street tracker orcafé racer, or just fix up and ride.Please call after 6 pm Eastern.

Ralph Anderson, (215) 736-3533,Morrisville, Pennsylvania

Yamaha Street 2-Strokes. Liquidat-ing 2-stroke collection. All are invery good to excellent condition,clean titles. All must go, call or emailfor photos, prices, info etc. 1981RD350 LC (liquid cooled) importedfrom Holland, Blue on White, lowmiles, excellent condition. 1985RZ350 Calif. model very good condi-tion, high miles but low miles on re-

28 www.vjmc.org


Classifiedsbuilt engine. 1985 RZ500 4 cyl2-stroke race replica, imported fromCanada. Very good condition, lowmiles, FAST.

Bill Rigsby, (719) 686-9195/229-2567, Divide, [email protected]

1981 Yamaha RD350LC. complete,running, cosmetically rough, currentIndiana title. $1200 USD Firm.JPEGs & details available.

Sam Simons, Ph/fx (765) 342-9689,[email protected]

1982 Yamaha XJ650 Maxim. Red.Only 4000 miles, mint condition.New tires, seals, boots, etc. Swirlmags, 4-into stock exhaust, wind-shield, luggage rack, back rest, maint.manual, show posters. $2400 obo.


1982 Yamaha Seca. Hannigan fair-ing with lowers. Good cold weatherbike. Starts and runs good. Shaftdrive. Bike is black, fairing is gold.Newer seat cover. Was used daily un-til new bike came 6 months ago.$1100.

Bob Hill, (540) 837-1033, Boyce,Virginia, [email protected]

1985 Yamaha RZ350. Very cleanexample, stock except DG chambers,have the OEM mufflers also. $2400firm. JPEG’s & details upon request.

Sam Simons, Ph/fax (765)342-9689, [email protected]

Miscellaneous

M/C Literature. Numerous 60s, 70s& 80s motorcycle magazines & man-uals. I will sell as a lot or per issue.Email or call for list.

Rick Seto, (905) 847-9838, To-ronto, [email protected]

SEATS! I repair vinyl and leather,seam rips, holes and tears. Any colordye, stock and custom logo replace-

ment. Full pan/frame up seat restora-tion. DIY seat cover kits and parts. Wealso offer Limited NOS, aftermarketparts, repro decals & more.10% off toall VJMC members. See at:http://www.coolretrobikes.com.

T D Bash, (727) 321-5085, St. Pe-tersburg, [email protected]

Borrani quick change WM3x18rear wheel for flat track racers. In-cludes caliper and master cylinder.$150.

Jim Hayes, 4828 Tonnelle Ave.,#B39, North Bergen, New Jersey,07047

1970/78 Japanese bikes. Selling allmy vintage dirt bikes. 100 bikes tochoose from; none complete. NoElsinores, but some Hodakas. Rea-sonable prices.


For 1970s Honda, Kawasaki,Yamaha: parts. Inventory of parts.Website: www.vintagenos.com.$25K as is, where is.

Cascade Equipment Inc, (970)249-7469, Montrose, Colorado, [email protected]

Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Man-uals for Sale: Honda, Suzuki,Kawasaki, Yamaha, Bridgestone &Others from the ‘50s-’90s. Shop,parts, and owners manuals.

Bob Skelton, (352) 341-5790,Herando, [email protected]

1970/82 100-1000cc Japanesebikes. Honda CB00, 350, 360, 400,500, 550, 650, 750, 900, Gold Wing.Kaw KZ305, 400, 440, 550, 650,750, 900. Suz GT380, 550, 750,GS450, 550, 650, 750, 850, 1000,1100. Yam RD350, SX400, 500, 750,850, 1100. I have 700 units that mustgo. Bargains can be had. No ship-

ping. Must pickup. I am a VJMCmember. Thanks.


Wanted

Honda

Vintage Hondas in near perfect con-dition. Will trade 2 BMW R1100Ssport bikes (both perfect) and a 1976Honda CB550 (not perfect, deckedout for long rides).

Robert A. Ringgenberg, (513)779-6200/(513) 779-6201 (fax),7368 Kingsgate Way, West Chester,Ohio, 45069

Photos. I am looking for any photosof a Honda CB77 (number 393) or aCB72 (number 393 or 360) that werebeing raced at the Vintage Motorcyledays at Mid-Ohio this year. If youhave any, Please contact me.

Chris Stupar, 4027 Apache Trail,Jamestown, Ohio, 45335,[email protected]

1964/67 Honda CB77. Looking fora clean and complete 305cc SuperHawk. I will pay top dollar for theright bike. A bike in need of restora-tion might be OK. Please call and tellme what you have. Thanks.

Mark Zlotkowski, (916) 752-6630,Sparks, [email protected]

For 1966 Honda CB160: Lookingfor mufflers.

Patrick [email protected]

For 1966 Honda Super Hawk:Looking for parts, fuel cock or gas-kets, back brake shoes, back brakecable, carb rebuilt kit, late edition of

www.vjmc.org 29


Classifiedslow rise handlebars, or informationon locating same. Thanks.

Bob Hill, (931) 645-6255,Clarksville, [email protected]

For 1966 back Honda CL77: Verygood set of OEM twin side exhaustpipes for early scrambler. Used. Thekind that take a push-in,screw-locked muffler baffle as op-posed to the shove-on canister.

Larry G. Mitchell, (303) 428-8760,Arvada, Colorado

For 1967 Honda CB450: Lookingfor Black Bomber seat. Will pay topdollar for a good one.

Richard E. LaBadie, (972)431-5589, Plano, [email protected]

For 1969 Honda SS125: Need aseat, front fender and hanger and leftside cover (ignition switch).

Keith, (256) 233-3276, Alabama,[email protected]

For 1969 Honda CB750: 3-digit se-rial number engine. Any conditionconsidered, including cases alone.

Mike Shoger, (815) 622-3366, Ster-ling, [email protected]

1969/76 Honda CB750: Lookingfor super clean, unrestored, unmo-lested CB750, will pay top dollar forright bike.

Don Sherman, (225) 343-7260,[email protected]

For 1970 Honda CB750 K0: I’mlooking for a pair (or one, if that’swhat you’ve got) of correct, dull-fin-ished exhaust heat shields for mynicely restored CB750. If you havesome for sale or trade, please contactme, thanks!

Reade Whitwell, (206) 935-9183,Seattle, [email protected]

For 1972 Honda CB250 (Germanmodel): Need left side cover uniqueto early 1970s CB250 Euro/domesticmodels. Derby Green Metallic or anycolor!

Marvin Gardens, (503) 703-8511,Portland, Oregon, [email protected]

For 1972/73 Honda CB/CL350Twins: Throttle cables. For

K3/K4/K5 models. One part # is17910-297-751.

Chuck Isackson, (605) 352-2479,PO Box 352, Huron, South Dakota

For Honda SL350 K0: A questionfor anyone who has restored an earlyHonda SL Motosport motorcycle;what readily commercially availablepaint most closely replicates the orig-inal metallic silver finish on theframe of these bikes? Any help isgreatly appreciated, thanks in ad-vance!

Reade Whitwell, (206) 935-9183,Seattle, [email protected]

For 1972 Honda CB450: Need ex-haust for restoration.

Steve Meinders, (816) 628-6731,[email protected]

For 1973 Honda CB350: Lookingfor a camshaft, sprocket, andcam/crank chain tensioner rubberparts. Can anyone help me locatethese items?

Dane Alley, (915) 849-1235, ElPaso, [email protected]

30 www.vjmc.org


For 1973 Honda CL450: Need seat.Robert A. Ringgenberg, (513)

779-6200/(513) 779-6201 (fax),7368 Kingsgate Way, West Chester,Ohio, 45069,

1973 Honda CB750 Four. Will paycash. Would like Green color if pos-sible. Good running condition.

Steve Roberts, (630) 585-6200,[email protected]

For 1974/75 Honda MR50. I amlooking for whole bikes, parts bikes,parts for this model. Both years arealmost the same, just cosmetic/colorchanges. Thanks.

Dan Gray, (240) 793-2000,[email protected]

For Honda CB750 K4: Need sidecovers. Must be in excellent shape.Also need chrome front fender andboth handlebar switch assemblies.NOS or excellent condition. Thanks.

Charles Sims, (806) 878-2807 (eve-nings), PO Box 1064 Stinnett, Texas,79083

For 1976 Honda CB550F SuperSport: Exhaust system, stock pre-ferred, but I will consider aftermar-ket. Came as a 4-into-1. Need wholeor parts in good usable condition (i.e.,no holes or rust-through). Thanks.

Rory Houlihan, (941) 423-9259,North Port, [email protected]

For 1987 Honda Shadow VT700C:Looking for heel/toe shifter. Was aHondaline accessory. Part number08135-MK700. The Honda Code is2310050. Have jpg for anyone inter-ested in helping.

RJ, (401) 265-7867, Coventry,Rhode Island, [email protected]

Kawasaki

For 1966 Kawasaki B8: Lookingfor NOS or used parts including:Brake Pedal 43001-006-10, Rear

Fender Flap 35037-008, SealedBeam Headlamp 23007-014, RearTurn Signal Assembly 23038-003,Right Hand Side Cover36007-004-10, Side Cover Emblem56015-003, Left Hand Fuel TankEmblem 56013-002, Right HandFuel Tank Emblem 56014-002, Lefthand Knee Grip 51061-001, RightHand Knee Grip 56062-001,Petcock Assembly 51023-003, AirCleaner Gasket 31078-001,Chrome Headlamp Rim 23006-004,Exhaust Pipe 18049-007, MufflerConnector Rubber 18043-002,Muffler Assembly 18001-009, LeftHand Engine Cover 14031-004,Clutch Adjusting Cap Gasket14049-002, Air Cleaner Element11013-004, and any other miscella-neous parts you might have.

Neil Geldof, (860) 529-0636, Con-necticut, [email protected]

1969 to 1975 Kawasaki H1 Triple:Looking for clean original example.Must have original paint and lowmileage!

Larry, daytime (917) 771-7100/evenings (212) [email protected]

Kawasaki KM90 or similar smallmotorcycle up to 125cc wanted formy wife. She’s only 4’9". Must benear complete, don’t mind as longas it’s not missing big bits. Fairprice paid, will collect anywhere in

UK.Will Barber, 01270 589341, Crewe,

Cheshire, [email protected]

For 1975 Kawasaki F7: Looking forthe following items: NOS petcock#51023-048, or a rebuild kit for one.Headlight hi/lo switch, kit part#99990-531. Owners manual & toolkit. Thanks.

Doug Snyder, (919) 233-9368,Cary, North [email protected]

Suzuki

1968 Suzuki T200. Good, completeand running bike. Also need goodseat and front fender.

Doug Strange, (610) 683-5855, 48Crystal Cave Road, Kutztown, Penn-sylvania, [email protected]

Wanted: For 1968 Suzuki T500;need seat grab rail and tail light lens.For 1969 Suzuki T500; need goodfront & rear fenders, chain guard andseat.

Doug Strange, (610) 683-5855, 48Crystal Cave Road, Kutztown, Penn-sylvania, [email protected]

For 1973 Suzuki GT550: right sideplastic cover (hides oil tank) any con-dition acceptable, also pistons andrings, any oversize.

Peter Haughton, (705) 737-1098,[email protected]

For 1975 Suzuki GT750: pistonsand rings for above bike, any over-size acceptable.

Peter Haughton, (705) 737-1098,[email protected]

Tohatsu

For 1960/62 Tohatsu CA2B Runpet

Sport 50cc, I’m looking for a chain

guard. Can anyone help?Jim Smith, (805) 968-9748, Goleta,

California, [email protected]

Yamaha

For 1968 Yamaha YCS1 180cctwin: need exhausts.

Roger Craig, (408) 293-1017, SanJose, [email protected]

For 1968 Yamaha DT1 250cc: gastank, muffler, tach, rubbers rearfender.

Classifieds

www.vjmc.org 31


Mike Gallagher, (804) 560-9000,Richmond, [email protected]

Yamaha RD250/350/400. Lookingfor a LOW mileage, CLEAN RD.

Rick, San Francisco Bay Area, Cal-ifornia, [email protected]

1974/84 Yamaha TY80 or similarsmall trail bike wanted for my littlewife (she’s only 4’9"). Must bemostly complete but basket caseswelcome. Will collect anywhere inUK. Any alternative suggestions?

Will Barber, 01270 589341,Cheshire, United Kingdom, [email protected]

For Yamaha RD200: I’m lookingfor a set of expansion chambers.Please contact me if you can help.

Mark Morrison, (309) 662-5371,[email protected]

For 1975 Yamaha RD350: a pair ofheader pipes [motor to mufflers] ingood condition not all rusty. Pleaseemail me with price and picture ifpossible.

Wayne, (518) 632-9603, Hartford,New York,[email protected]

For Early Yamaha TZ: need brakeassy. I race a Honda 350 K4 in theUK classic championship. I had a

pretty good season, but the thingthat’s letting me down is my 4 lead-ing shoe Suzuki front brake. It’s SOheavy! I’m looking for a 4 leadingshoe brake from an early TZYamaha. Has anybody got one forsale?

Gary Tong, [email protected]

For 1987 Yamaha FZR1000T, de-cal for LHS fairing lower “FZRpure sports”. Part # 2GH-28328-00-00.

John Boettger, (250) 746-9751,Duncan, British Columbia, Canada,[email protected]

Classifieds

is done solely at your own risk. Read-ing beyond this point constitutes animplicit acceptance of these termsand conditions.

FIRST THINGS FIRST: Don’t buythe first bike you see. Bring a friend& a flashlight. Do a couple of prac-tice inspections on friends’ bikes;discuss the results.

OVERALL APPEARANCE: Is thebike clean and straight? Sight downcenterline, and down forks.

HAS IT BEEN CRASHED? Checkfor bends or scrapes on bars, exhaust,plastic, and levers. Short/shal-low/non-parallel scratches or chipsindicate a tip-over. Long/deep/paral-lel scratches and cracks indicate acrash.

HAS IT BEEN RACED ORABUSED? Check for small (1/16")safety-wire holes in bolts. (Particu-larly caliper mounting bolts, exhaustbolts, etc.)

BIKE-SPECIFIC: Know the char-acteristic flaws of the models you’regoing to see.

BRAKES: Check for smooth opera-tion, no pulsing, pad material remain-ing, etc.

CLUTCH: Check lever effort, andwhether the clutch releases whensqueezed.

GAS TANK: Look for rust or amilky paint-like coating on the in-side. Dark gas (tea colored) is an in-dication of old gas that needschanging.

SEAT: Look for cracks/tears/etc.

TIRES: Check remaining treaddepth, dry rot, profile (round?squared-off?), date code.

ELECTRICAL & BATTERY: Testall lights and switches to make surethey work. The sound of the startercranking is a decent meter of the bat-tery’s condition.

SUSPENSION: Check forks forseal leaks or scratches, nicks, bendsor twists in legs.

WHEELS: Check both sides of bothwheels for dents or cracks.

CHAIN/SPROCKETS: Check forchain/sprocket wear (hooked teeth,stretched chain).

EXHAUST: Scratches, rust or dam-age. Exhaust pressure equal on bothsides?

ENGINE/FLUIDS/CARBURETORS: Check starting and operation ofengine and carbs. Check for leaks.

CENTERSTAND CHECKS: Getwheels in air and check wheel bear-ings, brake operation, etc.

SERVICE: Service records avail-able? Proof of warranty work? Etc.

DIRT BIKES: Special concernswhen inspecting dirt bikes.

QUIZZING THE SELLER: Ques-tions to ask the seller to determine thecondition of the bike.

ACCESSORIES, PRICE, andDEALING: Are you willing to paymore for add-ons?

HELMETS: Used helmets areworthless. Don’t use ‘em, don’t paymore for ‘em.

TITLES & PAPERWORK: Makesure it’s clean and that the VIN num-bers match up.

TEST RIDE: Go on one if you can— you can learn a lot about a bikethis way! Make sure you give it apre-ride check to make sure it’s safeto ride.


Checklist: A guide to motorcycle purchasing

Documents

VINTAGE JAPANESE MOTORCYCLE CLUB · VINTAGE JAPANESE MOTORCYCLE CLUB MAGAZINE DECEMBER 2003 From the editor: 2003 National Rally a success by Karen McElhaney National Rally The 3rd