Victorian Jewellery

8/9/2019 Victorian Jewellery

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VICTORIANVICTORIANJEWELLERYJEWELLERY

( 1837( 1837 1900)1900)

Neeru JainNeeru Jain


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Victorian Period 1837Victorian Period 1837--1900 An Overview1900 An Overview

The "Victorian era" as it has come to be known, started on June 20th 1837 with theThe "Victorian era" as it has come to be known, started on June 20th 1837 with the

crowning of Queen Victoria as the United Kingdom's longest ruling monarch.crowning of Queen Victoria as the United Kingdom's longest ruling monarch.

The Victorian era covered a long period of time and consequently it is usually broken intoThe Victorian era covered a long period of time and consequently it is usually broken into

3 major periods. They are called early, middle and late but to characterize them they are3 major periods. They are called early, middle and late but to characterize them they are

also described as thealso described as the romantic,romantic, thethegrandgrandand theand the aesthetic.aesthetic.

The usual jewelry worn by men in the Victorian era consisted in stickpins, watches withThe usual jewelry worn by men in the Victorian era consisted in stickpins, watches withtheir attendant keys, chains and fobs and rings.their attendant keys, chains and fobs and rings.

In Europe, only the simplest of jewelry was worn by young, unmarried womenIn Europe, only the simplest of jewelry was worn by young, unmarried women -- crosses,crosses,

pearls, chains, and mourning jewellery.pearls, chains, and mourning jewellery.

Fine jewelry in the Victorian era denoted more than just wealth. It was intended to reflectFine jewelry in the Victorian era denoted more than just wealth. It was intended to reflect

social standing and status as well as convey a message about the dignity and refinementsocial standing and status as well as convey a message about the dignity and refinement

of the wearer.of the wearer.


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The Romantic Period (1837The Romantic Period (1837--1860)1860)

Gold ornaments were decorated with intricate engraving, delicate enamel work, andGold ornaments were decorated with intricate engraving, delicate enamel work, and

serpentine designs. The jewels were often accented with seed pearls, small turquoiseserpentine designs. The jewels were often accented with seed pearls, small turquoise

beads and pink coral. The favorite pieces of jewelry were love tokens, mementoes, andbeads and pink coral. The favorite pieces of jewelry were love tokens, mementoes, and

souvenirs of travel or events.souvenirs of travel or events.

Brooches were extremely popular and were worn in a variety of ways by the VictorianBrooches were extremely popular and were worn in a variety of ways by the Victorian

woman. They were worn on the shoulder, of course, but also at the neck, waist, in thewoman. They were worn on the shoulder, of course, but also at the neck, waist, in thehair, and on ribbons as necklaces and bracelets and often in clusters.hair, and on ribbons as necklaces and bracelets and often in clusters.

Leaves, insects, flowers, vines, and birds and their feathers were molded, stamped andLeaves, insects, flowers, vines, and birds and their feathers were molded, stamped and

carved into jewels and mountings. The motifs also included a great amount of symboliccarved into jewels and mountings. The motifs also included a great amount of symbolic

imagery.imagery.

Queen Victoria's engagement ring from Prince Albert was in the form of a serpent.Queen Victoria's engagement ring from Prince Albert was in the form of a serpent.

Amethysts, Opals, Turquoise, and Freshwater, baroque and seed pearls are often foundAmethysts, Opals, Turquoise, and Freshwater, baroque and seed pearls are often found

in examples of Victorian jewelry.in examples of Victorian jewelry.


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MidMid--Victorian or Grand Period(1860Victorian or Grand Period(1860--1885)1885)

Early Victorian jewelry incorporated light, delicate designs withEarly Victorian jewelry incorporated light, delicate designs withelaborate engraving.elaborate engraving.

The MidThe Mid--Victorian period displayed bolder, and brighter jewelry,Victorian period displayed bolder, and brighter jewelry,

introducing both day and evening wear. Day jewellery consisted ofintroducing both day and evening wear. Day jewellery consisted ofclassical motifs made of small mosaics, sea shells, agate, jasper andclassical motifs made of small mosaics, sea shells, agate, jasper andamethyst. Diamonds and other sparkling colorless faceted gems wereamethyst. Diamonds and other sparkling colorless faceted gems werethe rage for evening wear. The pieces were set in highly detailedthe rage for evening wear. The pieces were set in highly detailedEtruscan frames made entirely by hand.Etruscan frames made entirely by hand.

Cameos could be carved in one color in black shell or onyx or lava orCameos could be carved in one color in black shell or onyx or lava ormolded from gutta percha or horn. These were very appropriate formolded from gutta percha or horn. These were very appropriate formourning jewelry and might be incorporated into a locket with amourning jewelry and might be incorporated into a locket with acompartment for a coil or lock of hair.compartment for a coil or lock of hair.

Black materials, Jet, Onyx, Gutta Percha, French Jet, and Bog OakBlack materials, Jet, Onyx, Gutta Percha, French Jet, and Bog Oak

were commonly used for mourning jewelry because of their flat blackwere commonly used for mourning jewelry because of their flat black


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Late Victorian or Aesthetic Period (1885Late Victorian or Aesthetic Period (1885--1900)1900)

Animal designs, for instance, monkeys or peacocks were fashioned into jewels. There wasAnimal designs, for instance, monkeys or peacocks were fashioned into jewels. There was

a greater sense of social responsibility and an even more liberated woman emergeda greater sense of social responsibility and an even more liberated woman emerged

during the 1880's. Again, fashions changed and a desire for softer, more feminine colorsduring the 1880's. Again, fashions changed and a desire for softer, more feminine colors

in jewelry. Fancy colored sapphires became the stone of choice, in addition to peridotin jewelry. Fancy colored sapphires became the stone of choice, in addition to peridot

and spinel. Diamonds gained greater popularity due to their bright sparkle and increasedand spinel. Diamonds gained greater popularity due to their bright sparkle and increased

availability.availability. The "late Victorian" period extended from 1885 to Queen Victoria's death in 1900. As theThe "late Victorian" period extended from 1885 to Queen Victoria's death in 1900. As the

prolonged malaise of the Grand Period waned, a new spirit of lightness swept overprolonged malaise of the Grand Period waned, a new spirit of lightness swept over

England like a cool breeze. Fun was back in vogue, and a sense of whimsy was broughtEngland like a cool breeze. Fun was back in vogue, and a sense of whimsy was brought

on by the influence of the Queen's daughteron by the influence of the Queen's daughter--inin--law, Princess Alexandria.law, Princess Alexandria.

An infinite variety of beautifully engraved bangle bracelets, intricate monogram and

name brooches, sentimental lockets, and other whimsical jewels were created to serve a

growing middle market.


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Victorian JewelleryVictorian Jewellery

Mourning Jewelry actually began around the 17th century and continued in variousMourning Jewelry actually began around the 17th century and continued in various

mediums throughout England and France. The popularity peaked during the reign ofmediums throughout England and France. The popularity peaked during the reign of

Queen Victoria upon the death of Prince Albert.Queen Victoria upon the death of Prince Albert.

Popularity increased in the United States during the Civil War and woven hair jewelryPopularity increased in the United States during the Civil War and woven hair jewelry

because a popular parlour art.because a popular parlour art.

Brooches holding a lock of hair symbolizing an absent love.Brooches holding a lock of hair symbolizing an absent love.

Black was the symbolic color of mourning and Jet was considered theBlack was the symbolic color of mourning and Jet was considered the

traditional mourning stone. Cypress the traditional mourningtraditional mourning stone. Cypress the traditional mourning

tree.tree.


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Jewellery reflects every form of decoration, taste and circumstances of period.Jewellery reflects every form of decoration, taste and circumstances of period.

The age of Queen Victoria increasing the reign of prosperity in progress, it wasThe age of Queen Victoria increasing the reign of prosperity in progress, it was

accordingly to be expected that during such a time a great quantity of jewelleryaccordingly to be expected that during such a time a great quantity of jewellery

should be made and worn.should be made and worn.

In 19th century during the days of Romans early Victorian and serpents areIn 19th century during the days of Romans early Victorian and serpents are

particularly very charming with emeralds. Though serpents have been used forparticularly very charming with emeralds. Though serpents have been used for

rings and bracelets. Since the days of the Romans and continued to be usedrings and bracelets. Since the days of the Romans and continued to be used

throughout the nineteenth century. These early Victorian serpents arethroughout the nineteenth century. These early Victorian serpents are

particularly charming.particularly charming.

There are two kinds of Cameos, the first being Gem Cameos in which a designThere are two kinds of Cameos, the first being Gem Cameos in which a design

is cut in relief on a stone, and the second being their imitations, carried onis cut in relief on a stone, and the second being their imitations, carried on

shells or cut or moulded in glass or paste.shells or cut or moulded in glass or paste.

Indian jewellery and its imitations became fashionable, when Queen assumedIndian jewellery and its imitations became fashionable, when Queen assumed

the title of Empress of India.the title of Empress of India.


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Natural materials such as tortoise shell, lava, jet, gutta percha, bog oak, ivory andNatural materials such as tortoise shell, lava, jet, gutta percha, bog oak, ivory and

vulcanite were also popular, especially for carved pieces and cameos.vulcanite were also popular, especially for carved pieces and cameos.

Other sentimental themes included love and song birds, love knots, clasped hands, hairOther sentimental themes included love and song birds, love knots, clasped hands, hair

jewelry, Mizpah and miniatures.jewelry, Mizpah and miniatures.

Intricately woven hair would be fashioned into bracelets, earrings and brooches with goldIntricately woven hair would be fashioned into bracelets, earrings and brooches with gold

fittings, while simple locks of hair could be enclosed within the glazed compartment of afittings, while simple locks of hair could be enclosed within the glazed compartment of a

hair locket.hair locket.

Whimsical motifs such as griffins and dragons, crescent moons and stars, butterflies andWhimsical motifs such as griffins and dragons, crescent moons and stars, butterflies and

salamanders, were crafted into jewels of astounding beauty.salamanders, were crafted into jewels of astounding beauty.


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A wonderful menagerie of bejeweled insects, animals, stars and crescent moons, griffins,A wonderful menagerie of bejeweled insects, animals, stars and crescent moons, griffins,

dragons and beautifully enameled flowers could be found in a late Victorian lady's jewelrydragons and beautifully enameled flowers could be found in a late Victorian lady's jewelry

chest.chest. Sporting events, leisure activities, foreign cultures (most notably Japan) andSporting events, leisure activities, foreign cultures (most notably Japan) and

sentimental symbols of love and good fortune were all common themes embraced bysentimental symbols of love and good fortune were all common themes embraced by

jewelry designers of the day.jewelry designers of the day.

Late Victorian jewelers took advantage of this abundance by bedecking their creationsLate Victorian jewelers took advantage of this abundance by bedecking their creations

with a sparkling array of rose cut and Old European cut diamonds.with a sparkling array of rose cut and Old European cut diamonds.

An infinite variety of beautifully engraved bangle bracelets, intricate monogram andAn infinite variety of beautifully engraved bangle bracelets, intricate monogram andname brooches, sentimental lockets, and other whimsical jewels were created to serve aname brooches, sentimental lockets, and other whimsical jewels were created to serve a

growing middle market.growing middle market.

With the death of Queen Victoria in 1901, the Victorian era sadly came to an end.With the death of Queen Victoria in 1901, the Victorian era sadly came to an end.


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ICTORIAN DESIGNS

Documents

Victorian Jewellery