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VenueThe Store X, 180 Strand, London WC2R 1EA

Opening Times Friday, 14th September 08.00–19.00

Saturday, 15th September 09.30–19.00

Sunday, 16th September 09.30–19.00

Monday, 17th September 09.30–19.00

Tuesday, 18th September 09.30–18.00

For more information please visit our website: londonfashionweek.com

For up-to-the-minute show times, call the LFW timeline on: 020 3772 1484 Or follow @lfwtimeline on Twitter

Twitter @londonfashionwkInstagram @londonfashionweekFacebook /londonfashionweekYoutube /britishfashioncouncil

#LFW #PositiveFashion

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The British Fashion Council would like to thank the following for their support of London Fashion Week September 2018:

Accenture AllSaintsAmazon FashionArcadia Group Ltd Bicester VillageBodenBurberryCapcoCentre:mk Condé Nast PublicationsDebenhamsDHLEiesha Bharti Pasricha Fenwick LimitedGAPHarrodsHearst Magazines

HuntsmanJimmy ChooJohn Lewis PartnershipKeringLVMHMarks & SpencerMATCHESFASHION.COMMcArthur Glen GroupMulberryNextRiver IslandRodialSelfridges & CoShaftesburyTomorrowThe Woolmark CompanyYoox Net-A-Porter Group

The British Fashion Council (BFC) is delighted to welcome you to London Fashion Week (LFW) September 2018.London Fashion Week runs from Friday, 14th to Tuesday, 18th September 2018 and this season’s packed schedule cements London’s position as an international hub for creativity, innovation and commerce. It features catwalks, presentations

Patrons

and events from over 190 international brands, many of which are emerging designers; highlighting the best creative talent our industry has to offer.The BFC’s mission is to harness the power of the fashion industry to create sustainable growth for the sector, while promoting our designer businesses in the global fashion economy. In 2018 we continue to focus on Positive Fashion, a platform designed to celebrate diversity, sustainability, craftsmanship and community, encouraging fashion to be used as a platform to promote global positive change.The home of LFW — The Store X, 180 Strand, hosts the BFC's Designer Showrooms, a curated showcase of the most exciting ready-to -wear and accessories brands. Also found at the Store X is the BFC Show Space, the NEWGEN pop-up showroom and the DiscoveryLAB, an experiential space featuring fashion, art, technology and performance pop-ups.

What does it mean to create fashion at a time when people are collectively questioning the world around them? Social media is filled with a growing wave of out-spoken activists spanning Generations Z, Millennials, Xennials, X and beyond — many of them prominent celebrities and influencers, while even more are little- known change-makers. How can fashion stay relevant to their lives when consumers are increasingly concerned with the greater social, political and environmental good?

These are the questions facing the fashion world as London Fashion Week kicks off. And the solutions being discussed are rooted in optimism and a desire for change. It’s hard to overstate the transformation fashion has undergone in the past decade, going from an insular, homogenous and exclusive world of luxury (with one of the biggest carbon footprints and a high tolerance for discrimination) to an industry increasingly embracing inclusivity, circularity and social activism.

This is a time when fashion’s biggest conglomerates and brightest emerging stars are collectively beginning to recognize that it’s no longer enough to create beautiful things from within a bubble of isolation. A fashion industry rooted in social and environmental good is not only the modern way forward, but a must for all businesses that want to grow.

6This reality has inspired a groundswell of activity, around the British Fashion Council’s three pillars of Positive Fashion: Sustainability, Equality and Diversity, and Craftmanship and Community — each pillar a direct response to wider conversations and debates in the zeitgeist, each pillar supported by the city of London.

It’s been difficult to discuss fashion this year without addressing its impact on the environment. And recent studies reveal that millennial consumers are more likely to buy clothing from a brand with a sustainable story. This London Fashion Week, there are many to celebrate including Johnstons of Elgin, steventai, Kevin Germanier, Richard Malone, Mother of Pearl and Teatum Jones. Each one debunking age-old myths that sustainable fashion can’t be highly creative and wholly desirable, and all using innovative practices in design, upcycling and textiles to create fashion that doesn’t hurt the planet. Their work goes hand in hand with the BFC’s drive to promote and sustain the kind of craftsmanship that makes London’s fashion talent special and sets it apart from ideas of ecologically-damaging disposability.

The work goes beyond the London Fashion Week calendar. Earlier this year, Prince Charles, a long advocate for environmentalism, met with designers and businesses in White City to discuss their

work to reduce fashion’s footprint. And with the help of Vivienne Westwood, London’s fashion businesses are beginning to see the value in switching to green energy sources, as the British Fashion Council works with the Mayor of London and music and film industry’s to achieve greater, longer-lasting impact.

Meanwhile, London continues to evolve into a more diverse fashion community with the autumn/winter ’18 shows being LFW’s most race and trans diverse season ever. Models of colour represented 34.6 percent of castings, a 3.6% increase over the year before, while the runways reveal room to grow in the area of plus-size, age and disability representation. As it works to become the most diverse fashion week, London’s fashion businesses and media titles could all band together to promote the greater diversity needed behind the scenes to make inclusivity in fashion the norm.

And in the year of #MeToo and the centenary of the suffragettes, the campaign to promote equal treatment of women in a female-dominated industry (whether it be models or the many mothers, sisters and daughters who work in clothing factories) has never seemed more urgent. Change is afoot in many areas from the sheer numbers of models taking to Facebook, Twitter and Instagram to share their stories to the various actions taken by the BFC and model

agencies in response, including the decision to install private dressing rooms at Store X Studios to protect models and allow them a place to change away photographers.

The Models First Initiative, organised in 2017 to combat mistreatment of models of any gender and set a framework of best practices, has taken on a new significance in a year in which some of fashion’s most celebrated icons have been exposed for abusing their power. Meanwhile the Model Zone, provides a safe place for models to eat, seek downtime and therapy if needed during the peripatetic London shows offers much needed support during the fashion calendar’s most stressful period.

As awareness and discussion around these topics grows, global action will surely increase. And those who hesitate, will surely get left behind. Adopting sustainable and inclusive practices is good for business. With a firm plan in place, a celebratory spirit and commitment to seeing it through, London, one of the world’s most diverse cities, is already setting the stage for long- lasting progress through the BFC.

#PositiveFashion britishfashioncouncil.com/positive-fashion

Positive FashionText by Kenya Hunt, ELLE

Schedule13.00–15.00 SPECIAL OPENING: C-POP

by VIP.COM (Mukzin, Bailuyu, A Life On The Left, Kisscat)

See Invitation Catwalk

18.00–20.00 JOSEPH: ‘Gingernutz Takes Paris’ Book Signing

See Invitation Event

18.00–20.00 Sophie Kah Salon Show and Cocktail Party

See Invitation Event

18.00–20.30 Curated Canadian Collections See Invitation Event

19.00–20.00 VIN + OMI SS19 Show P / F See Invitation Event

19.00–21.30 AISSO See Invitation Event

19.00–Late Urbanears presents Listen To Yourself by Tove Lo

See Invitation Event

Thursday, 13th September

08.00–09.00 London Fashion Week Official Opening

See Invitation Event

09.00 Richard Malone* BFC Show Space Catwalk

09.30–11.30 Emma Charles Designer Showrooms

Discovery LAB

09.30–11.30 Gayeon Lee See Invitation Presentation

10.00 Jamie Wei Huang See Invitation Catwalk

10.00–18.00 Amanda Wakeley See Invitation App.

11.00 J. JS Lee M/W BFC Show Space Catwalk

12.00 Nicopanda See Invitation Catwalk

13.00 Bora Aksu BFC Show Space Catwalk

14.00 Ryan LO See Invitation Catwalk

15.00 Kiko Kostadinov* See Invitation Catwalk

15.30–17.30 XU ZHI See Invitation Presentation

16.00 Marta Jakubowski BFC Show Space Catwalk

17.00 Pam Hogg See Invitation Catwalk

Friday, 14th September

Saturday,09.00 Eudon Choi See Invitation Catwalk

09.30–11.30 Anya Hindmarch See Invitation Presentation

09.30–11.30 Clio Peppiatt Designer Showrooms

Discovery LAB

10.00 FYODOR GOLAN BFC Show Space Catwalk

11.00 ALEXACHUNG See Invitation Catwalk

11.30–13.30 Alice Archer See Invitation Presentation

12.00 Ports 1961 See Invitation Catwalk

12.30–13.30 OSMAN See Invitation Presentation

13.00 Jasper Conran See Invitation Catwalk

13.30–15.30 Markus Lupfer See Invitation Presentation

14.00 Molly Goddard*** See Invitation Catwalk

15.00 Halpern* See Invitation Catwalk

16.00 JW Anderson M/W See Invitation Catwalk

16.30–18.30 Micol Ragni Designer Showrooms

Discovery LAB

17.00 House of Holland See Invitation Catwalk

17.30–19.30 Sadie Williams BFC Show Space Presentation

18.00 Gareth Pugh See Invitation Catwalk

19.00 Temperley London See Invitation Catwalk

20.00 Mary Katrantzou See Invitation Catwalk

21.00 JULIEN MACDONALD M/W See Invitation Catwalk

Sunday,09.00–17.00 Jenny Packham See Invitation App.

09.30 Victoria Beckham See Invitation Catwalk

09.30–11.30 MARRKNULL Designer Showrooms

Discovery LAB

09.30–11.30 minki BFC Show Space

Presentation

10.30 Victoria Beckham See Invitation Catwalk

11.30 Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

See Invitation Catwalk

12.30 Roland Mouret See Invitation Catwalk

13.15 Margaret Howell M/W See Invitation Catwalk

13.30–15.30 STEVE O SMITH Designer Showrooms

Discovery LAB

14.00 Delpozo See Invitation Catwalk

14.00–15.30 Supriya Lele * BFC Show Space

Presentation

15.00 Fashion East See Invitation Catwalk

15.30–17.30 steventai P / F See Invitation Presentation

16.00 CHALAYAN See Invitation Catwalk

17.00 Nicholas Kirkwood See Invitation Catwalk

18.00 Simone Rocha See Invitation Catwalk

19.00 Ashish BFC Show Space Catwalk

20.00 Peter Pilotto See Invitation Catwalk

20.30–21.00 2018 Shenzhen Products Show

See Invitation Event

20.30–21.30 AADNEVIK SS19 Fashion Show

See Invitation Event

20.30–22.00 Victor Wong–Show & After Party

See Invitation Event

20.30–Late Stories From Arabia Mansion Soirée

See Invitation Event

21.00–21.45 Pierre Garroudi Spectacular Fashion Show

See Invitation Event

17.00–19.00 KALDA Designer Showrooms

Discovery LAB

17.30–19.30 Johnstons of Elgin P / F M/W See Invitation Presentation

18.00 Matty Bovan* BFC Show Space Catwalk

19.00 Xiao Li See Invitation Catwalk

20.00 Ashley Williams See Invitation Catwalk

20.30–22.00 Katie Ann McGuigan See Invitation Event

15th September

16th September

Menswear & WomenswearSee Now Buy NowPositive FashionNEWGENBFC Fashion TrustBFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund

13Key

09.00 REJINA PYO ** See Invitation Catwalk

09.00–16.30 Pringle of Scotland See Invitation App.

09.30–10.30 Paul Costelloe BFC Show Space

Presentation

10.00 Roksanda See Invitation Catwalk

10.00–18.00 Amanda Wakeley See Invitation App.

11.00 ERDEM See Invitation Catwalk

12.00 palmer//harding** See Invitation Catwalk

12.30–14.30 Alexander White See Invitation Presentation

13.00 Christopher Kane See Invitation Catwalk

13.00–15.00 Wesley Harriott Designer Showrooms

Discovery LAB

13.30–16.30 Aspinal of London See Invitation Presentation

14.00 Emilia Wickstead See Invitation Catwalk

14.30–16.30 Mother of Pearl ** SN/BN P / F See Invitation Presentation

15.00 DAVID KOMA See Invitation Catwalk

15.30–17.30 Edeline Lee BFC Show Space

Presentation

16.00 TOGA See Invitation Catwalk

17.00 Burberry M/W SN/BN See Invitation Catwalk

17.30–19.30 FENGYI TAN Designer Showrooms

Discovery LAB

18.30–19.30 Paula Knorr* BFC Show Space

Presentation

19.00 Huishan Zhang See Invitation Catwalk

20.00 MM6 Maison Margiela See Invitation Catwalk

20.30–22.00 APUJAN SS19 See Invitation Event

20.30–22.00 MARIEYAT Collection IV Presentation

See Invitation Event

20.30–Late Johny Dar X Blacks: Where The Future Starts

See Invitation Event

Monday, 09.00 pushBUTTON BFC

Show SpaceShow

09.00–11.00 Gènavant Designer Showrooms

Discovery LAB

09.30–11.30 NABIL NAYAL ** See Invitation Presentation

10.00 Natasha Zinko See Invitation Catwalk

10.00–18.00 Amanda Wakeley See Invitation App.

11.30–13.30 Malene Oddershede Bach See Invitation Presentation

12.00 Roberta Einer BFC Show Space

Catwalk

12.00–15.00 Victoria, Victoria Beckham See Invitation App.

12.30–14.30 Mark Fast Designer Showrooms

Discovery LAB

13.30–15.30 RIXO SN/BN See Invitation Presentation

14.00 Richard Quinn* BFC Show Space

Catwalk

14.30–16.30 Zandra Rhodes See Invitation Presentation

16.00–18.00 UNDERAGE Designer Showrooms

Discovery LAB

18.00 On|Off Presents... BFC Show Space

Catwalk

19.00–Late Chocolab x UNNY Club On|Off: LFW Closing Party

See Invitation Event

Tuesday,

M/W

SN/BN

P / F

*** ***

17th September 18th September

Schedule correct at time of print

Ground Floor

BFC Show Space Entrance

Designer Showroom Entrance

BFC Show Space

Fast-track Registration

LFW Bar

Nivea Recharge & Refresh Point

Toilets

Stairs

RoutesTo BFC Show Space from The Strand

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BFC Education Foundation

TONI&GUY X label.m

Accessories

Millinery

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NEWGEN

Ready-To-Wear

-1 Floor

Entrance from -1 Floor

DiscoveryLAB

&FINALLY Curated Showroom

Etihad Airways

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Eithad Airways3

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Designer Showrooms

Designer Showrooms

Dita Von Teese once said 'I advocate glamour. Every day. Every minute.' Jenny Packham, one of Dita’s most beloved designers, undoubtably shares her appreciation for the elegance of yesteryear – and the attendant fancy sparkling occasions.

The Central Saint Martins alumni’s evening dresses are easily recognisable by their aura of a Greek Goddess, sublime choice of fabrics, carefully selected embellishments and a palette that meanders through a landscape of deep jewel-tones over to one full of delicate hues of Dom Pérignon champagnes and rich, vanilla-based, desserts.

Packham’s brand has been a staple for the glitterati - the princes and princesses of the world, and those aspiring to move amongst them - throughout its 30 years existence. Her bridal collections have also been the cherry on top of the ice for many a fairytale-like wedding.

The brand’s Resort 2019 collection was a homage to another glamorous icon who never shied away from sequins and gowns: Elizabeth Taylor. As Packham preps for her special 30th anniversary presentation during LFW we asked her to reflect upon her past, her present, and how she defines elegance.

Q: When people hear your name they’re most likely to get a mental image of a gorgeous long embel-lished dress. When and how did your love for the luxurious and glamorous aspects of life start out?

A: I have always wanted to design for special moments and was very influenced by cinematic fashion as a child. I like statement dressing and I suppose once I started designing glamorous dresses it became ‘my thing’ and rather addictive. I aim to make a woman feel confident and beguiling.

Q: How would you describe your design process from start to finish? Any surprising elements you would like to mention?

A: I very much enjoy the process of making a sketch to creating a style. The work that goes into a dress is intense and to make the garment a success each process needs attention and creativity. However, if a style is laboured over too long I instinctively know it probably will not work and I have to be the one to cancel the style from the collection which can be disappointing to the team. Good styles come together easily.

Q: Throughout the years you’ve dressed some of the most famous and goddess-like women in the world. Who would you love to see in a Jenny Packman dress next?

A: It is such an honour to have dressed so many inspirational women over the years and I love the collaborative process. I would love to dress Florence Pugh. A young very talented British actress who I enjoy watching. Claire Foy is another actress for who I would like to design a red-carpet dress.

Q: Which references and sources of inspiration did you always go back to in the process of creating your new collection?

A: Every season I look to find new inspiration to create something new. However, I love the eras of the 1930’s and 70’s. The silhouettes are both decadent and simple and can be reinterpreted into a contemporary style easily.

Q: This year the Jenny Packham brand is celebrating 30 years in existence. What are some of the major highlights of your career – and how will you celebrate this milestone?

A: I have had an incredible 30 years. I started in a small studio cutting and sewing the styles myself and progressed to dressing some of the most iconic women of our age. I have so many great memories, from the first-time Angelina Jolie stepped out in Jenny Packham to fitting Swarovski nipple tassels on Dita Von Teese and opening our first flagship boutique in 2006. I’m sure there are more to come and in celebration of this milestone year, I am delighted to be returning to LFW this season and presenting our SS19 anniversary collection at our Mayfair Townhouse.

JennyPackham

Text by Caroline Krager, Melkoghonning

Appointments Sunday, 16th September 09.00–17.00

londonfashionweek.com/jennypackham

21

Kirkwood

Q: How does it feel to be back home this season on the LFW schedule?

A: This is my first (catwalk) show, I’ve only ever done static presentations before which have been in Paris, but I couldn’t imagine doing a show anywhere other than London.

Q: What does living and working in London mean to you as a designer?

A: It’s the most creative city in the world and such a source of inspiration from art to music to fashion. I love the unpolished fresh energy and the con-stant challenging of the status quo that London has in its DNA which, as a designer living in London, I naturally feed off.

Q: You have had us treading on jewels, teetering

on sculpted Perspex and snuggling our toes in mohair, what can we expect next?

A: I am focusing quite a bit on unstructured uppers which allow the leather or material to float around the foot in a very light and organic way. It’s quite difficult to explain in words but it creates a certain lightness and highlights the characteristics of the material in a similar way I imagine as it might in a dress.

Q: Is being experimental with your materials

and technology where you have the most fun when designing?

A: Yes, for sure! New material technologies or ways to manipulate the materials and of course finding interesting and unexpected ways to use them is what is fun about experimenting. It doesn’t always work but when it does it can be a wonderful moment.

Nicholas Kirkwood, the designer who has us walking on pearls and never fails to amaze us with his unconventional use of materials and sculpted silhouettes, returns to London Fashion Week after a five-year sojourn at the Paris collections. Since establishing his business in 2005 he has opened a flagship store in Mayfair and announced a long-term partnership with LVMH. He has received numerous industry accolades, including BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund in 2013 and several Accessories Designer of the Year awards for his daring, innovative designs which combine craft with cutting-edge technology. His return to London sees his designs step onto the catwalk for the first time with an event that promises to be immersive and experiential.

Nicholas

Q: Your designs have a daring architectural DNA but now your shoes seem more romantic and textural, how do you see your æsthetic evolving?

A: My design DNA has always been to create that tension between femininity and architectural graphic forms and that is still very prevalent in all the collections. The collection is more compre-hensive than it was a few years ago. Sadly, many of our wholesale partners have become far ‘safer’ in their selections and therefore the bolder more graphic and experimental pieces are not seen as much as before. This is why having a show is such a great opportunity to remind people of those more dynamic aspects in my approach to design for which I was first noticed.

Text by Francesca Fearon,The Australian

Show at 17.00 Sunday, 16th September londonfashionweek.com/nicholaskirkwood

Q: You’ve achieved a clear, recognisable brand identity in this time – has there been anything that has challenged this or made it difficult? What would your advice be for young emerging designers in this current climate?

A: My very first collection was mapped around the idea of trompe-l’oeil prints. That idea evolved into thematic collections based on objects of beauty that

we collect: perfume bottles, interiors, objects of Art, postage stamps and more recently on more abstract ideas such as symbolism or nostal- gia. It allowed me to build a brand that is bold in intent and empowers women to showcase their aesthetic. Building a brand based on the

image as inspiration allowed me to create a very visual world that allowed me to challenge the boundaries of imagination and what is desirable in fashion. It’s difficult to remain innovative and explore your bandwidth as a designer, while always staying true to your brand DNA and the responsibility you have towards your customers. Having the confidence to trust your instincts is never easy, but in 10 years I’ve learnt just how important it is to believe in yourself. You can not be everything for everyone at all times, so the best advice I was given is to have a laser sharp focus in what you do best and really nurture and evolve the talent that is

entirely your own.Q: Where do you see/where would you like to

see the brand in another 10 years? A: As an image-led brand, I would love to explore new

fields outside ready-to-wear. I love jewellery design and I was brought up around interior design, so both are areas I would love to explore. It excites me to think of the possibilities within the world of design, while keeping the brand’s authenticity.

Q: Supporting bodies such as the BFC of course provide valuable backing and guidance – How has this bolstered your brand during the years and is there enough done to support young British designers today?

A: London has definitely set the course for my career. The incredible mentoring of Louise Wilson at Central Saint Martins and the support of the BFC and Caroline Rush, have shaped me as a designer and an enterpreneur. Sarah Mower first discovered me at the CSM graduation show and without her I probably would have never launched my business. She saw something in me that made me believe in myself. London is a unique place for being inspired and working as a creative. I would have never had such support in another city and I am lucky to have met incredible women, who have become my close friends and supporters and who inspire me with their own achievements. Having been supported by NEWGEN and been the recipient of the BFC/ Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, I received invaluable mentorship. London is the perfect platform to launch your own brand and it’s great to see 10 years on from the day I launched my own, that the support is even stronger today and a new guard of designers is emerging,

Q: This year for you has been full of celebration and reflection, your tenth year in business, what would you say has been your most significant discovery about the brand to take forward into the next decade?

A: My work is about perception and perspective and channeling that through a visual language that is my own. It is about filtering beauty through design and creating collections that are authentic, intel-ligent and allow women to stand out. My biggest discovery is meeting the women I design for and understanding what drew them to my work and what feeling it evokes in them. That’s what defines a brand. The challenge is to always be in sync with your times. As a designer, I think it’s natural to look towards the future while filtering the present through your lens. When I launched the brand in 2008, the industry revolved around minimalism. I had to develop a confidence in my own conviction and create a unique narrative through my collections that went against current trends. Each time I got something right, I would grow a bit more, learning not only about my company but also about myself as a creator. For the next decade, I want to continue exploring and innovating through my work and building on the dialogue I have with the women I design for. Our lives as women are constantly evolving and fashion should always be part of that evolution and enhance our confidence for all the diverse roles we occupy.

Throughout the last decade, having already surpassed many others following the same path, designer Mary Katrantzou has not only pushed boundaries with her abstract figuration, intricate graphic prints and bold textiles, she has con-fidently solidified her brand identity and established a unique dialogue with her strong female following. Having already been the recipient of various awards, including the BFC/ Vogue Designer Fashion Fund and sponsorship from the likes of NEWGEN, as well as collaborations with Atelier Swarovski and Adidas, Mary is going from strength to strength. Now beginning a new decade in business, it is with excitement that we look at what’s next for the London-based creative.

Text by Chantal de Vignes, Hunger MaryKatrantzouShow at 20.00

Saturday, 15th September londonfashionweek.com/marykatrantzou

Q: The issue of sustainability is at the forefront of many design conversations recently, you won 2017 BFC/ Vogue Designer Fashion Fund prize and used this to steer the brand in a more eco-friendly direction — Does moving into this territory have an impact on the design and production process? In what way?

A: It can and it can’t, it depends how you want to go about the process. You can simply opt out of your usual fabrics and replace for a certified version or like me, you can go the full way. Either route is still a positive one! For my journey, I flipped the whole process around, beginning with geography. I wanted to create a product that ticked every sustainable box so customers didn’t have to question anything. I started with locations and what territories create the raw materials; what are the closest locations for spinning, weaving and finishing the garments. I wanted to ensure that the product travelled the least amount of miles possible, as well as being made under the best environmental and social conditions. I began with options of materials and manufacturing before I put pen to paper. Its the opposite way most of us use design.

Q: Sustainability today can be considered trendy, what do you think is needed to move this from a trend to an industry wide movement?

A: I think a trend is positive if it promotes awareness, which in turn pushes consumers to push brands. Hopefully, once the momentum starts then brands will have to make changes. The ideal scenario would be if the momentum reaches governments to put trading standards in place in the textile industry so that brands have no choice but to adhere to certain standards.

Q: A recent personal venture saw you take an eco friendly direction with a bridal line, how much does your personal life inspire your work and do you feel this is the same for all designers?

A: My job is my life in so many ways, so infinitely. When you run a small company it all merges into one, my home becomes adorned with florals that you see in our collection, and it is filled with as many sustainable attributes as possible which then infiltrate Mother of Pearl. The brand becomes an extension of my life. As a creative, I am always plotting and planning my next creative project and they always intertwine. I think for designers there will always be elements of cross over.

Q: The brand started in 2002, you came on board in 2006. How do you think the brand has evolved in terms of aesthetic and identity since joining?

A: I did indeed, 12 years in total, but the first five years were very much me assisting in the studio before my creative path began. Slowly I was involved more and more in collections until around six years ago where I became the Director of Design and then more recently Creative Director. The brand has evolved a great deal, naturally with different designers at the helm along the way, and then it found the feet it stands on today. We have had a more evolutionary approach to the direction of the brand than others but today it has its identity solidified.

Since joining Mother of Pearl in 2006, just four years after the brand was founded, Amy Powney has witnessed first hand its journey and growth and now drives the brand in her role as Creative Director. Drawing on her personal influences and experiences, alongside a desire to be environmentally considerate and carefully balancing creativity and authenticity in an ever- changing social landscape, Amy has cemented the MOP identity as luxe and accessible, with a wonderfully modern and playful aesthetic. Now making further moves into considered, sustainable design we get an insight into her world.

of Pearl

Text by Chantal de Vignes, H

unger

Mother

25

Presentation at 14.30–16.30Monday, 17th September londonfashionweek.com/motherofpearl

Q: Tell us, you’ve been all over the world this year, which city have you been most inspired by for SS19?

A: Tokyo was amazing. We held one of our presentations there and it’s just so frenetic & also weirdly calm. The juxtaposition of tradition and technology really blew my hair back. Also, I went to a cat cafe and it was bleak.

Q: Favourite piece from the collection? A: I really love all the shoes in this collection.

Aside from them the crocheted coat or our burgundy destination print.

Q: You’re a close friend with Henry Holland

— is there any healthy competition now?!A: Haha. Yes! No. Henry was here first and I’ve seen

the way he’s grown his business and has been so dedicated to his craft for so many years. It’s very impressive. All of our friends are very supportive of one another’s endeavours.

Alexa

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Q: You’re a year into running your own label, what have you learnt about yourself ?

A: That I’m more comfortable working as part of a team than being the traditional boss. Which of course is how companies run but if ever I’m called upon to give a speech or do anything boss-like I haven’t yet grown into that role.

Q: Do you remember the early conversations

about ALEXACHUNG? What were they like and who were you discussing this new chapter with?

A: I was being weirdly secretive about it actually. A lot of my life has been spent living up to other people’s expectations or perceptions of me so I wanted to keep this private and unique. The only people I told were those I was hoping to hire and my family. I just didn’t want external opinion to cloud my instinct about what it should be. I was looking forward to starting a British brand and I think my early desire was to make it a Mary Quant for the modern age. Something fun and necessary & of the moment. Clothes that make you feel more yourself.

Text by Fenn O’Meally

Growing up the name Chung was enough to evoke the image of a young woman with effortless style, a contagious laugh and an aura that was and is just, well, Chung. Whatever she wore became iconic. The loafers, the chunky Miu Mius or those simple breton stripes – ok Coco Chanel did get there first, but Alexa made it hers and we all gleefully followed. It’s no new news that Chung is fluent in constructing her own wardrobe and thankfully, for the rest us, she finally turned to ours. Founder & Creative Director of ALEXACHUNG, her iconic identity that is dappled with memoirs from the past, has been channeled into her own label. With a year of that new “Designer” title under her belt and a handful of collection launches around the world (Tokyo & LA to name a few), I caught up with the woman who has gone from running the runway to running our wardrobes…

Chung

Show at 11.00Saturday, 15th September londonfashionweek.com/alexachung

In the face of a fast-changing, globally connected fashion landscape, simply displaying clothes is no longer enough. Today more than ever, the industry is having to embrace and cultivate a booming desire for innovation, experimentation and diversity expressed by designers and customers alike. True to this modern mantra, the London Fashion Week Designer Showrooms will be showcasing over 120 British and international designers, mirroring the kaleidoscopic patchwork of styles and identities that has come to define the diverse, cosmopolitan spirit of the capital. Spotlighting designers from Dubai, Finland and South Korea, among many others, the Showrooms aims to celebrate the enduring international appeal of London as a global fashion city. Located at The Store X, 180 Strand, the Showrooms continues downstairs with the DiscoveryLAB, a highly immersive, interdisciplinary platform. Merging the worlds of fashion, tech, music, art and performance, the space is designed to help the audience engage with the experimental, collaborative side of the creative industries and get familiar with a wide variety of exciting new brands through installations, performances, talks, workshops, pop-ups, digital screenings and exclusive launches.

Located on -2 Floor

In line with the British Fashion Council’s dedication to support emerging talent, the Discovery LAB offers an engaging insight into the modern fashion zeitgeist with a fresh, alternative take on the traditional catwalk. D

iscoveryLAB

On Saturday, 15th September, London-based womenswear designer Clio Peppiatt2 (09.30–11.30) will take centre stage, displaying her intricately embroidered and embellished garments made for a confident, modern woman who doesn’t lack a tongue-in-cheek sense of humour.

In the afternoon, Peppiatt will be followed by Italian-born designer Micol Ragni3 (16.30–18.30), whose atypical, complex and darkly extravagant silhouettes have been worn by the likes of Björk, Rihanna and Erykah Badu, cementing her as one of

Located on -2 Floor

On Friday, 14th September, the DiscoveryLAB will begin by showcasing emerging designer Emma Charles1 (09.30–11.30), whose eponymous brand launched in AW16. Inspired by the clean lines and craftsmanship of vintage menswear tailoring which she combines with a youthful, feminine energy, Charles’ designs are colourful, elegant and luxurious pieces with an androgynous edge instantly exuding character and an understated sex-appeal.

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On Monday, 17th September, ASOS Fashion Discovery winner and London College of Fashion graduate Ricky Harriott6 (13.00–15.00) will present his sexy, modern and uniquely cartoon-esque garments inspired by strong femininity in all its forms, real or fictional: from Rihanna to Kill Bill’s O-Ren Ishii. The young London designer established his brand, Wesley Harriott, in 2017, and already counts SZA and Kylie Jenner among his fans.

FENGYI TAN 17.30–19.30

On Tuesday, September 18thGènavant 09.00–11.00 Mark Fast 12.30–14.30UNDERAGE 16.00–18.00

On Sunday, 16th September, Beijing-based women’s ready-to-wear duo MARRKNULL4 (09.30–11.30) will be displaying their daring designs. Inspired by the contrasts and contradictions of modern China, the duo’s striking pieces fuse innovative stitching techniques and Chinese native clothing structures to give a unique perspective on social culture while actively breaking down gender binaries.

In the afternoon, the spotlight will be placed on British designer and Rhode Island School of Design graduate STEVE O SMITH5 (13.30–15.30), whose brand, humourously titled SOS was established in 2017. Smith’s sleek designs stylishly push the boundaries of gender and social convention whilst creating highly alluring silhouettes.

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DiscoveryLAB

Friday, 14th September

Emma Charles 09.30–11.30

KALDA 17.00–19.00

Schedule

See full schedule for more details

Saturday, 15th September

Clio Peppiatt 09.30–11.30 Micol Ragni

16.30–18.30 Sunday, 16th September

MARRKNULL 09.30–11.30

STEVE O SMITH

13.30–15.30 Monday, 17th September

Wesley Harriott 13.00–15.00

FENGYI TAN 17.30–19.30

Tuesday, 18th September

Gènavant 09.00–11.00

Mark Fast 12.30–14.30 UNDERAGE 16.00–18.00

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Showrooms

NewACK, Aisso Showroom, 1014Lex, 2Wo+1Ne=2, Alexandra Koumba, Celebrity Skin, Di Gaïa, Etty Leon, Maison Faliakos, Alighieri, Alfeya Valrina5, Anne Karine Thorbjørnsen, Art School6, Christinahjones, Colter, Davy J, Faustine Steinmetz, Fiorella Pratto, Gaenus, Iria Ashimine, Isosceles, Juneyen, Kalda, Le Niné, M Woven By Martina Spetlova, Nelson Made, Nita Suri7, Livia Tang Rendl, Roxanne First, Sabry Marouf, Skechers, Uooya, Victoria Ragna, Wires8

Designer ReturningAt-One-Ment By Wanbing Huang3, BESFXXK, Black Pr, DB Berdan, Hissa Haddad, Mashu, Sounder Wang, Vjera V, DAOU2, Ellis Mhairi Cameron, Frances Wadsworth Jones, Future British Supported By Boden, Sykes London, Elv Denim, Alistair James, Gayeon Lee, Georgia Hardinge, Hopeful, Jarel Zhang, Kocca Showroom, J.Won, Gu_de, Dew E Dew E, Laura Theiss, Laurie Lee Leather, Lu Mei, MARRKNULL, Maxine Shoes, Merve, Bayindir, Mimiamo, Myriamsos, Nabil Nayal1, Rosantica, Siran, Stephen Jones Millinery, Taylor Yates, The Season Hats, Vinti Andrews, Wen Pan and William Chambers Millinery 4

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&FINALLY Curated Accessories Showroom is open to all LFW press and buyers, Located on Floor -2, BFC Designer Showrooms, The Store X, 180 Strand

Dubbed as the ‘encyclopedia of accessories', &FINALLYfounders, Anna Vitiello and Florrie Thomas have transported their online curated space into physical form at London Fashion Week September 2018. With a combined 12 years in the industry former UK fashion editors, Vitiello and Thomas, pooled their exhaustive know- ledge of fashion accessories into the online platform for industry experts and consumers alike. &FINALLY is now one of the world’s leading online destinations for luxury and high street accessories, with an ever-growing social following, collaborating with brands including Dior, Chanel, Net-a-Porter and Browns Fashion. Located on floor -2, The Store X, 180 Strand, &FINALLY’s expertly curated showroom showcases a selection of the most delicate, daring and in demand accessories brands available in London this season. and-finally.co.uk

Black & Brown London1

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Image by Moeez Ali

NEWGEN

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Creativity — the intangibility of the word makes its wondrous results hard to explain and even harder to monitor. The fashion world, however, is blessed with many brilliant, sparkling minds, who have a keen audacity and a rare capacity to prove their creative stripes.The fashion designer is a figure to which creativity is inseparable to their life and work. Their role is one that must harness this abstract and unpredictable state of mind in order to satisfy and solve their constant quest for the spirited and the splendid, the new and exciting.

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The designer recipients of NEWGEN, the internationally renowned designer support scheme of the British Fashion Council, know what creativity is, and the power it can wield. The recipient list of this accolade stretches across both menswear, womenswear and accessories, the designers all vibrant dazzles that encompass the future of fashion design and business. The NEWGEN scheme allows for young talent to grow effectively through a combination of business mentoring and showcasing support — both as important as one another in order for exciting brands to become successful businesses.While the brands within NEWGEN are young, these creative directors at the helm are intelligent, aware and buoyant to a shifting economy.Enlisted to the initiative’s ranks for the first time this September is a strong dissection of accesso-ries designers: ISOSCELES

Lingerie, Alighieri and The Season Hats; Supriya Lele and Matty Bovan on the womenswear front will be joining Richard Malone, Paula Knorr, Richard Quinn and Halpern.What these NEWGEN designers prove season upon season is that their cultivation of innovation has informed, inspired and shaped our creative landscape: we must continue to salute and support their strivings – it is our responsibility to the tastemakers of tomorrow.

Friday, 14th September

Richard Malone 09.00

Kiko Kostadinov 15.00

Matty Bovan 18.00

Saturday, 15th September

Halpern 15.00

Sunday, 16th September

Supriya Lele 14.00–15.30

Monday, 17th September

Paula Knorr 18.30–19.30

Tuesday, 18th September

Richard Quinn 14.00

LONDON showROOMS provides a unique opportunity for emerging British designers to promote themselves outside of London. The BFC launched LONDON showROOMS in 2008, taking emerging talents to Paris during Paris Fashion Week to sell in a showroom environment. The initiative was an instant success and has grown season on season in promoting London’s brightest rising stars to a global audience.

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ednesday, 26th September –Tuesday, 2nd O

ctober 2018

New address 22 rue de la Roquette, 75011 Paris, France

Designers Include:AlighieriEdeline LeeEudon ChoiISOSCELES LingerieLuna Del PinalMarta JakubowskiNABIL NAYALPHOEBE ENGLISH Räthel & WolfRichard QuinnRoberta EinerSabry MaroufSupriya Lele

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DAVID KOMAHuishan ZhangLe KiltMarques’AlmeidaREJINA PYO

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Fashion Fund Finalists

Fashion TrustAriesMarques’AlmeidaMother of Pearl NABIL NAYALpalmer//hardingREJINA PYOTEIJA

Newgen A-COLD-WALL*AlighieriBIANCA SAUNDERSCharles Jeffrey LOVERBOYHalpern ISOSCELES Lingerie Kiko KostadinovLiam HodgesMatty BovanNicholas DaleyParia /FARZANEHPaula KnorrPer GötessonPHOEBE ENGLISHRichard MaloneRichard Quinn The Season HatsSupriya Lele WALES BONNER

Publication design by PentagramEditor Lauren Cunningham