US Army Improvised Munitions Handbook TM31-210 54p

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IMPROVISED MUNITIONS HANDBOOK

TM 31-210 Department of the army technical manual

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA WAR OFFICE

FOR OFFICIAL USE ONLY

CHAPTER I

---------

EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS (Includind Igniters)

For further information or additional inserts, contact:

Commanding Officer

Frankford Arsenal

ATTN: SMUF A-U3100, Special Products Division

Small Caliber Engineering Directorate

Philadelphia, PA. 19137

Additional inserts will be made available as evaluation tests are completed.

Please notify the above agency of any change of address so that you may receive

them.

INTRODUCTION

1. Purpose and Scope

In Unconventional Warfare operations it may be impossible or unwise to use

conventional military munitions as tools in the conduct of certain missions. it

may be necessary instead to fabricate the required munitions from locally

available or unassuming materials. The purpose of this Manual is to increase

the potential of Special Forces and guerrilla troops by describing in detail

the manufacture of munitions from seemingly innocuous locally available mate-

rials.

Manufactured, precision devices almost always will be more effective, more

reliable, and easier to use than improvised ones, but shelf items will just not

be available for certain operations for security or logistical reasons. There-

fore the operater will have to rely on materials he can buy in a drug or paint

store, find in a junk pile, or scrounge from military stocks. Also, many of the

ingredients and materials used in fabricating homemade items are so commonplace

or innocuous they can be carried without arousing suspicion. The completed item

itself often is more easily concealed or camouflaged. In addition, the field

expedient item can be tailored for the intended target, thereby providing an

advantage over the standard item in flexibility and versatility.

The Manual contains simple explanations and illustrations to permit const-

ruction of the items by personnel not normally familiar with making and hand-

ling munitions. These items were conceived in-house or, obtained from otherpublications or personnel engaged in munitions or special warfare work. This

Manual includes methods for fabricating explosives, detonators, propellants,

shaped charges, small arms, mortats, incendiaries, delays, switches, and simi-

lar items from indigenous materials.

2. Safety and Reliability

Each item was evaluated both theoretically and experimentally to assure safety

and reliability. A large number of items were descarded because of inherent


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hazards or unreliable performance. Safety warnings are prominently inserted in

the procedures where they apply but it is emphasized that safety is a matter of

attitude. It is a proven fact that men who are alert, who think out a situa-

tion, and who take correct precautions have fewer accidents than the careless

and indifferent. It is important that work be planned and that instructions be

followed to the letter; all work should be done in a neat and orderly manner.

In the manufacture explosives, detonators, propellants and incendiaries, equip-

ment must be kept clean and such energy concentrations as sparks, friction, im-

pact, hot objects, flame, chemical reactions, and excessive pressure should be

avoided.

These items were found to be effective in most environments; however, samples

should be made and tested remotely prior to actual use of assure proper per-

formance. Chemical items should be used as soon as possible after preparation

and kept free of moisture, dirt, and the above energy concentrations. Special

care should be taken in any attempt at substitution or use of items for pur-

poses other than that specified or intended.

3. User Comments

It is anticipated that this manual will be revised or changed from time to

time. In this way it will be possible to update present material and add new

items as they become available. Users are encouraged to submit recommended

changes or comments to improve this manual. Comments should be keyed to thespecific page, paragraph, and line of the text in which changes are recom-

mended. Reasons should be provided for each comment to insure understanding

and complete evaluation. Comments should be forwarded directly to Commandant,

United States Army, Special Warfare School, Fort Bragg, North Carolina 28307

and Commanding Officer, United States Army, Frankford Arsenal, SMUFA-J8000,

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 19137.

Section I

No. 1

PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FILLER

A plastic explosive filler can be made from potassium chlorate and petroleum

jelly. This explosive can be detonaed with commercial #8 or military blasting

cap.

MATERIALS REQUIRED: HOW USED:

------------------- ---------

Potassium chlorate Medicine

Manufacture of matches

Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) Medicine

Lubricant

Piece of round stick

Wide bowl or other container

for mixing ingredients.

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Spread potassium chlorate crystals thinly on a hard surface. Roll the round


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stick over crystals to crush into a very fine powder until it looks like face

powder or wheat flour.

2. Place 9 parts powdered potassium chlorate and 1 part petroleum jelly in a

wide bowl or similar container. Mix ingredients with hands (knead) until a uni-

form paste is obtained.

NOTE: Store explosive in a waterproof container until ready to use.

Section I

No. 2

POTASSIUM NITRATE

Potassium nitrate (saltpeter) can be extracted from many natural sources and

can be used to make nitric acid, black powder and many pyrotechnics. The yield

ranges from .1 to 10% by weight, depending on the fertility of the soil.

MATERIALS: SOURCES:

---------- --------

Nitrate bearing earth or other Soil containing old decayedmaterials, about 3-1/2 gallons vegetable or animal matter

(13-1/2 liters)

Old cellars and/or farm dirt

floors

Earth from old burial grounds

Decayed stone or mortal build-

ings foundations

Fine wood ashes, about 1/2 cup Totally burned whitish wood

(1/8 liter) ash powder

Bucket or similar container, Totally burned paper (black)

about 5 gallons (19 liters) in

volume (plastic, metal, or

wood)

2 pieces of finely woven cloth,

each slightly larger than bot-

tom of bucket

Shallow pan or dish, at least as

large as bottom of bucket

Shallow heat resistant container

(ceramic, metal, etc.)

Water - 1-1/3 gallons (6-3/4

liters)

Awl, knife, screwdriver, or ot-her hole producing instrument

Alcohol about 1 gallon (4 lit-

ers) (whiskey, rubbing alcohol,

etc.)

Heat source (fire, electric

heater, etc.)

Paper

Tape


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NOTE: Only the rations of the amount of ingredients are important. Thus, for

twice as much potassium nitrate, double quantities used.

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Punch holes in bottom of bucket. Spread one piece of cloth over holes in-

side of bucket.

2. Place wood ashes on cloth and spread to make a layer about the thickness of

the cloth. Place second piece of cloth on top of ashes.

3. Place dirt in bucket.

4. Place bucket over shallow container. Bucket may be supported on sticks if

necessary.

************

*EEEEEEEEEE*

*EEEEEEEEEE*-----Earth ****

*EEEEEEEEEE* / **

*CCCCCCCCCC*-----Cloth Stick-------*********

*WWWWWWWW*------Wood \ ***AAAAAAAA*------Ashes ****

*CCCCCCCC*------Cloth

**********

SSSSSSSSSSSSSS--------Stick

**********

**********------Shallow Container

**********

5. Boil water and pour it over earth in bucket a little at a time. Allow

water to run through holes in bucket into shallow container. Be sure water

through all of the earth. Allow drained liquid to cool and settle for 1 to 2

hours.

NOTE: Do not pour all water at once, since this may cause stopage.

6. Carefully drain off liquid into heat resistant container. Discard any

sludge remaining in bottom of the shallow container.

7. Boil mixture over hot fire for at least 2 hours. Small grains of salt will

begin to appear in the solution. Scoop these out as they form, using any type

of improvised strainer (paper, etc.).

8. When liquid has boiled down to approximately half its original volume, re-

move from fire and let sit. After half an hour add an equal volume of alcohol.

When mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals will collect on top

of it.

9. To purify the potassium nitrate, re-desolve the dry crystals in the small-

est possible amount of boiled water. Remove any salt crystals that appear (step

7); pour through an improvised filter made of several pieces of paper and eva-

porate or gently heat the concentrated solution to dryness.

10. Spread crystals on flat surface and allow to dry. The potassium nitrate

crystals are now ready for use.


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Section I

No. 3

IMPROVISED BLACK POWDER

Black Powder can be prepered in a simple, safe manner. It may be used as

blasting or gun powder.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

Potassium nitrate, granulated, 3 cups (3/4 liter) (see Sect. I, No. 2)

Wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups (1/2 liter)

Sulfur, powdered, 1/2 cup (1/8 liter)

Alcohol, 5 pints (2-1/2 liters) (whiskey, rubbing alcohol, etc.)

Water, 3 cups (3/4 liter)

Heat source

2 Buckets - each 2 gallon (7-1/2 liters) capacity, at least one of which is

heat resistant (metal, ceramic, etc.)

Flat window screening, at least 1 foot (30 cm) square

Large wooden stick

Cloth, at least 2 feet (60 cm) square

NOTE: The above amounts will yield two pounds (900 grams) of black powder. How-

ever, only the ratios of the amounts of ingredients. Thus, for twice as much

black powder, double all quantities used.

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Place alcohol in on3e of the buckets.

2. Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant bucket.

Add 1 cup water and mix thoroughly with wooden stick until all ingredients are

dissolved.

3. Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat source and

stir until small bubbles begin to form.

CAUTION: Do not boil mixture. Be sure all mixture stays wet. If any is dry, as

on sides of pan, it may ignite.

4. Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while stirring vigo-

rously.

5. Let alcohol mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through cloth to

obtain black powder. Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around black powder and squeeze

to remove all excess liquid.

6. Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp powder onscreen and granulate by rubbing solid through screen.

NOTE: If granulated particles appear to stick together and change shape, re-

combine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 and 6.

7. Spread granulated black powder on flat dry surface so that layer about 1/2

inch (1-1/4 cm) is formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator, or direct sunlight. This

should be dried as soon as possible, perferably in one hour. The longer the

drying period, the less effective the black powder.


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CAUTION: Remove from heat as soon as granules are dry. Black powder is now

ready for use.

Section I

No. 4

NITRIC ACID

Nitric acid is used in the preparation of many explosives, incendiary mix-

tures, and acid delay timers. It may be prepared by distilling a mixture of

potassium nitrate and concentrated sulfuric acid.

MATERIALS REQUIRED: SOURCES:

------------------- --------

Potassium nitrate (2 parts by Drug Store

volume) Improvised (Section I, No. 2)

Concentrated sulfuric acid (1 Motor vehicle batteries

part by volume) Industrial plants

2 bottles of ceramic jugs(narrow necks are prefectable)

Pot or frying pan

Heat source (wood, coal, or

charcoal)

Tape (paper, elecrtical, mask-

ing, etc, but not cellophane)

Paper or rags

IMPORTANT: If sulfuric acid is obtained from a motor vehicle battery, concent-

rate it by boiling it until white fumes appear. DO NOT INHALE FUMES.

NOTE: The amount of nitric acid produced is the same as the amount of potas-

sium nitrate. Thus, for 2 tablespoonsful of nitric acid, use 2 tablespoonsful

of potassium nitrate and 1 tablespoonsful of concentrated sulfuric acid.

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle or jug. Add sulfuric acid. Do not

fill bottle more than 1/4 full. Mix until paste is formed.

2. Wrap paper or rags around necks of 2 bottles. Securely tape necks of

bottles together. Be sure bottles are flush against each other and that there

are no air spaces.

CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn sn\kin and destroy clothing. If any is spill-

ed, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous andshould not be inhaled.

3. Support bottles on rocks or cans so that empty bottle is slightly lower

than bottle containing paste so that nitric acid thet is formed in receiving

bottle will not run into other bottle.

4. Build fire in pot or frying pan.

5. Gently heat bottle containing mixture by moving fire in and out. As red


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fumes begin to appear periodically pour cool water over empty receiving bottle.

Nitric acid will begin to form in the receiving bottle.

CAUTION: Do not overheat or wet bottle containing mixture or it may shatter. As

an added precaution, place bottle to be heated in heat resistent container

filled with sand or gravel. Heat this outer container to produce nitric acid.

6. Continue the above process until no more red fumes are formed. If the nit-

ric acid formed in the receiving bottle is not clear (cloudy) pour it into

cleaned bottle and repeat Steps 2-6.

CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spill-

ed, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and

should not be inhaled.

Nitric acid should be kept away from all combustibles and should be kept in a

sealed ceramic or glass container.

Section I

No. 5

INITIATOR FOR DUST EXPLOSIONS

An initiator which will initiate common material to produce dust explosions

can be rapidly and easily constructed. This type of charge is ideal for the

destruction of enclosed areas such as rooms or buildings.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

A flat can, 3 in. (8 cm) diameter and 1-1/2 in. (3-3/4 cm) high. A 6-1/2 ounce

Tuna can serves the purpose quite well.

Blasting cap

Explosive

Aluminum (may be wire, cut sheet, flattened can or powder)

Large nail, 4 in. (10 cm) long

Wooden rod - 1/4 in. (6 mm) diameter

Flour, gasoline and powder or chipped aluminum

NOTE: Plastic explosives (Comp. C-4, etc.) produce better explosions than cast

explosives (Comp. B, etc.).

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Using the nail, press a hole through the side of the Tuna can 3/8 to 1/2

inch (1 to 1-1/2 cm) from the bottom. Using a rotating and lever action, en-

large the hole until it will accommodate the blasting cap.

2. Place the wooden rod in the hole and position the end of the rod at the

center of the can.

3. Press explosive into the can, being sure to surround the rod, until it is

3/4 inch (2 cm) from top of the can. Carefully remove the wooden rod.

4. Place the aluminum metal on top of the explosive.


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5. Just before use, insert the blasting cap into the cavity made by the rod.

The initiator is now ready for use.

NOTE: If it is desired to carry the initiator some distance, cardboard may be

pressed on top of the aluminum to insure against loss of material.

HOW TO USE:

-----------

This particular unit works quite well to initiate charges of five pounds of

flour, 1/2 gallon (1-2/3 litres) of gasoline or twwo pounds of flake paintersaluminum. The solid materials may merely be contained in sacks or cardboard

cartons. The gasoline may be placed in plasticcoated paper milk cartons, plas-

tic or glass bottles. The charges are placed directly on top of the initiator

and the blasting cap is actuated electrically or by fuse depending on the type

of cap employed. This will destroy a 2.000 cubic feet enclosure (building 10 x

20 x 10 feet).

NOTE: For larger enclosures, use proportionately larger initiators and charges.

Section I

No. 6

FERTILIZER EXPLOSIVE

An explosive munition can be made from fertilizer grade ammunition nitrate

and either fuel or a mixture of equal parts of motor oil and gasoline. When

properly prepared, this explosive munition can be detonated with a blasting

cap.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

Ammonium nitrate (not less than 32% nitrogen)

Fuel oil or gasoline and motor oil (1:1 ratio)

Two flat boards. (At least one of these should be comfortably held in the hand,

i.e. 2 x 4 and 36 x 36.)

Bucket or other container for mixing ingredients

Iron or steel pipe or bottle, tin can or heavy-walled cardboard tube

Blasting cap

Wooden rod - 1/4 in. diameter

Spoon or similar measuring container

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Spread a handful of the ammonium nitrate on the large flat board and rub

vigorously with the other board until the large particles are crushed into avery fine powder that looks like flour (approx. 10 min).

NOTE: Proceed with Step 2 as soon as possible since the powder may take mois-

ture from the air and become spoiled.

2. Mix one measure (cup, tablespoon, etc.) of fuel oil with 16 measures of

the finely ground ammonium nitrate in a dry bucket or other suitable container

and stir with the wooden rod. If fuel oil is not available, use one half mea-

sure of gasoline and one half of motor oil. Store in a waterproof container un-


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til ready to use.

3. Spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap thread-

ed on one end. If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can, a glass

jar or a heavy-walled cardboard tube.

NOTE: Take care not to tamp or shake the mixture in the pipe. If mixture be-

comes tightly packed, one cap will not be sufficient to initiate the explosive.

4. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix.

NOTE: Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of

the explosive.

Section I

No. 7

CARBON TET - EXPLOSIVE

A moist explosive mixture can be made from fine aluminum powder combined

with carbon tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene. This explosive can be deto-nated with a blasting cap.


------------------- --------

Fine aluminum bronzing powder Paint Store

Carbon tetrachloride or Pharmacy, or fire extin-

tetrachloroethylene guisher fluid

Stirring rod (wood) Dry cleaners, Pharmacy

Mixing container (bowl, bucket,

etc.)

Measuring container (cup, table,

spoon, etc.)

Storage container (jar, can,

etc.)

Blasting cap

Pipe, can or jar

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Measure out two parts aluminum powder to one part carbon tetrachloride or

tetrachloroethylene liquid into mixing container, adding liquid to powder while

stirring with the wooden rod.

2. Stir until the mixture becomes the consistency of honey syrup.

CAUTION: Fumes from the liquid are dangerous and should not be inhaled.

3. Store explosive in a jar or similar waterproof container until ready to

use. The liquid in the mixture evaporates quickly when not nonfined.

NOTE: Mixture will detonate in this manner for a period of 72 hours.

HOW TO USE:

-----------


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1. Pour this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap thread-

ed on one end. If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can or a grass

jar,

2. Insert B\blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix.

NOTE: Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of

the explosive.

Section I

No. 8

FERTILIZER AN-AL EXPLOSIVE

A dry explosive mixture can be made from ammonium nitrate fertilizer combi-

ned with fine aluminum powder. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting

cap.


------------------- --------

Ammonium nitrate fertilizer Farm or Feed Store

(not less than 32% nitrogen)

Fine aluminum bronzing powder Paint Store

Measuring container (cup, table-

spoon, etc.)

Mixing container (wide bowl, can,

etc.)

Two flat boards (one should be

comfortably held in hand and

one very large, i.e. 2 x 4

and 36 x 36 in.)

Storage container (jar, can,

etc.)

Blasting cap

Wooden rod - 1/4 inch diameter

Pipe, can or jar

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Method I - To obtain a low velocity explosive.

a. Use measuring container to measure four parts fertilizer to one part

aluminum powder and pour into the mixing container.

(Example: 4 cups of fertilizer to 1 cup aluminum powder.)

b. Mix ingredients well with the wooden rod.

2. Method II - To obtain a much higher velocity explosive.

a. Spread a handful at a time of the fertilizer on the large flat board

and rub vigorously with the other board until the large particles are

crushed into a very fine powder that looks like flour (approx. 10 min per

handful).


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NOTE: Proceed with step b below as soon as possible since the powder may take

moisture from the air and become spoiled.

b. Follow steps a and b of Method I.

3. Store the explosive mixture in a waterproof container, such as glass jar,

steel pipe, etc., until ready to use.

HOW TO USE:

-----------

Follow steps 1 and 2 of "How To Use" in Section I, No. 7.

Section I

No. 9

"RED OR WHITE POWDER" PROPELLANT

"Red or White Powder" Propellant may be prepared in a simple, safe manner.

The formulation describes below will result in approximately 2-1/2 pounds of

powder. This is a small arms propellant and should only be used in weapons with1/2 in. inside diameter or less, such as the Match Gun or the 7.62 Carbine, but

not pistols.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

Heat source (Kitchen stove or open fire)

2 gallon metal bucket

Measuring cup (8 ounces)

Wooden spoon or rubber spatula

Metal sheet or aluminum foil (at least 18 in. sq.)

Flat window screen (at least 1 ft. sq.)

Potassium nitrate (granulated) 2-1/3 cups

White sugar (granulated) 2 cups

Powdered ferric oxide (rust) 1.8 cup (if available)

Clear water, 3-1/2 cups

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Place the sugar, potassium nitrate, and water in the bucket. Heat with a

low flame, stirring occasionally until the sugar and potassium nitrate dis-

solve.

2. If available, add the ferric oxide (rust) to the solution. Increase the

flame under the mixture until it boils gently.

NOTE: The mixture will retain the rust coloration.

3. Stir and scrape the bucket sides occasionally until the mixture is reduced

to one quarter of its orginal volume, then stir continuously.

4. As the water evaporates, the mixture will become thicker until it reaches

the consistency of cooked breakfast cereal or homemade fudge. At this stage of

thickness, remove the bucket from the heat source, and spread the mass on the

metal sheet.


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5. While the material cools, score it with the spoon or spatula in criss-

crossed furrows about 1 inch spart.

6. Allow the material to air dry, preferably in the sun. As it dries, rescore

it occasionally (about every 20 minutes) to air drying.

7. When the material has dried to a point where it is moist and soft but not

sticky to the touch, place a small spoonful on the screen. Rub the material

back and forth against the screen mesh with spoon or other flat object until

the material is granulated into small worm-like particles.

8. After granulation, return the material to the sun to dry completely.

Section I

No. 10

NITRIC ACID/NITROBENZENE ("HELLHOFFITE") EXPLOSIVE

An explosive munition can be made from mononitrobenzene and nitric acid. It

is a simple explosive to prepare. Just pour the mononitrobenzene into the acidstir.


------------------- --------

Nitric acid Field grade or 90% concentrated

(specific gravity of 1.48)

Mononitrobenzene (also known as Drug store (oil of mirbane)

nitrobenzene) Chemiclal supply house

Industries (used as solvent)

Acid resistant measuring con- Glass, clay, etc.

tainers.

Acid resistant mixing rod

Blasting cap

Wax

Steel pipe, end cap and tape

Bottle or jar

NOTE: Prepare mixture just before use.

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Add 1 volume (cup, quart, etc.) mononitrobenzene to 2 volumes nitric acid

in bottle or jar.

2. Mix ingredients well by stirring with acid resistant rod.

CAUTION: Nitric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled,

wash off imediately with a large amount of water. Nitrobenzene is toxic; do not

inhale fumes.

HOW TO USE:

-----------

1. Wax blasting cap, pipe and end cap.


14/54

2. Thread end cap onto pipe.

3. Pour mixture into pipe.

4. Insert and tape blasting cap just beneath surface of mixture.

NOTE: Combining the open end of the pipe will add to the effectiveness of the

explosive.

Section I

No. 11

OPTIMIZED PROCESS FOR CELLULOSE/ACID EXPLOSIVES

An acid type explosive can be made from nitric acid and white paper or cot-

ton cloth. This explosive can be detonated with a commercial #8 or any military

blasting cap.


------------------- --------

Nitric acid Industrial metal processors, 90%

concentrated (specific gravity

of 1.48)

Field grade (See Section I, No. 4)

White unprinted, unsized paper Paper towels, napkins

Clean white cotton cloth Clothing, sheets, etc.

Acid resistant container Wax coasted pipe or can, ceramic

pipe, glass jar, etc.

Heavy-walled glass container

Aluminum foil or acid resistant Food stores

material

Protective gloves

Blasting cap

Wax

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Put on gloves.

2. Spread out a layer of paper or cloth on aluminum foil and sprinkle with

nitric acid until thoroughly soaked. If aluminum foil is unavailable, use an

acid resistant material (glass, ceramic or wood).

CAUTION: Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it

away with a large quantity of water. Do not inhale fumes.

3. Place another layer of paper or cloth on top of the acid-soaked sheet and

repeat step 2 above. Repeat as often as necessary.

4. Roll up the aluminum foil containing the acid-soaked sheets and insert the

roll into the acid resistant container.

NOTE: If glass, ceramic or wooden tray is used, pick up sheets with two wooden

sticks and load into container.


15/54

5. Wax blasting cap.

6. Insert the blasting cap in the center of the rolled sheets. Allow 5 min-

utes before detonating the explosive.

NOTE: Section I, No. 12 to 17 is missing in the book. Probably censored.

Section I

No. 18

POTASSIUM OR SODIUM NITRATE AND LITHARGE (LEAD MONOXIDE)

Potassium or sodium nitrate is needed to prepare DDNP (Section I, No. 19)

and litharge is required for the preparation of lead picrate (Section I, No.

20).


------------------- --------

Lead metal (small pieces or Pluming supply store

chips)

Potasium (or sodium) nitrate Field grade (Section I, No. 2)

Methyl (wood) alcohol or Drug Store.

Iron pipe with end cap

Iron rod or screwdriver

Paper towels

2 glass jars, wide mouth

Metal pan

Heat source (hot coals or blow

torch)

Improvised scale (Section VII,

No. 8)

Cup

Water

Pan

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Mix 12 grams of lead and 4 grams of potassium or sodium nitrate in a jar.

Place the mixture in the iron pipe.

2. Heat iron pipe in a bed of hot coals or with blow torch for 30 minutes to

1 hour. (Mixture will change to a yellow color.)

3. Remove the iron pipe from the heat source and allow to cool. Chip out theyellow material formed in the iron pipe and place the chips in the glass jar.

4. Add 1/2 cup (120 milliliters) of methyl alcohol to the chips.

5. Heat the glass jar containing the mixture in a hot water bath for approxi-

mately 2 minutes (heat until there is a noticeable reaction between chips and

alcohol; solution will turn darker.

6. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into the other glass jar. The


16/54

material left on the paper towel is lead monoxide.

7. Remove the lead monoxide and wash it twice through a paper towel using 1/2

cup (120 milliliters) of hot water each time. Air dry before using.

8. Place the jar with the liquid (from Step 6) in a hot water bath (as in

Step 5) and heat until the alcohol has evaporated. The powder remaining in the

jar after evaporation is potassium or sodium nitrate.

NOTE: Nitrate has a strong tendency to absorb water from the atmosphere and

should be stored in a closed container.

Section I

No. 19

DDNP

DDNP is a primary explosive used in the fabrication of detonators (Section

VI, No. 13). It is to be used with a booster explosive such as picric acid

(Section I, No. 21) or RDX (Section I, No. 15).


------------------- --------

Picric acid Section I, No. 21

Flowers of sulfur

Lye (sodium hydroxide)

Sulfuric acid, diluted Motor vehicle batteries

Potassium or sodium nitrate Section I, No. 15

Water

2 glass cups, heat resistant,

(Pyrex)

Stirring rod (glass or wood)

Improvised scale Section VII, No. 8

Paper towels

Teaspoon

Tablespoon

Eyedropper

Heat source

Containers

Tape

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. In one of the glass cups, mix 1/2 gram of lye with 2 tablespoons (30

milliliters) of warm water.

2. Dissolve 1 teaspoon (3 grams) of picric acid in the water-lye solution.

Store until ready for step 5.

3. Place 1/4 teaspoon (1 milliliter) of water in the other glass cup. Add 1/2

teaspoon (2-1/2 grams) of sulfur and 1/3 teaspoon (2-1/2 grams) of lye to the

water.

4. Boil solution over heat source until color turns dark red. Remove and

allow solution to cool.


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5. In three portions, add this sulfur-lye solution to the picric acid-lye

solution (Step 2); stir while pouring. Allow mixture to cool.

6. Filter the mixture through paper towel into a container. Small red par-

ticles will collect the paper. Discard the liquid in the container.

7. Dissolve the red particles in 1/4 cup (60 milliliters) of boiling water.

8. Remove and filter the mixture through a paper towel as in step 6. Discard

the particles left on the paper.

9. Using an eyedropper, slowly add the sulfuric acid to the filtered solution

until it turns orangebrown.

10. Add 1/2 teaspoon (2-1/2 grams) more of sulfuric acid to the solution. Al-

low the solution to cool to room temperature.

11. In a separate container, dissolve 1/4 teaspoon (1,8 grams) of potassium or

sodium nitrate in 1/3 cup (80 milliliters) of water.

12. Add this solution in one portion, while stirring, to the orangebrown solu-

tion. Allow the mixture to stand for 10 minutes. The mixture will turn light

brown.

CAUTION: At this point the mixture is a primary explosive. Keep away from

flame.

13. Filter the mixture through a paper towel. Wash the particles left on the

paper with 4 teaspoons (20 milliliters) of water.

14. Allow the particles to dry (approx. 16 hours).

CAUTION: Explosive is shock and flame sensitive. Store explosive in a capped

container.

NOTE: The drying time can be reduced to 2 hours if a hot (not boiling) water

bath is used. See Section I, No. 16.

Section I

No. 20

PREPARATION OF LEAD PICRATE

Lead picrate is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators

(Section VI, No. 13. It is to be used with a booster explosive such as picric

acid (Section I, No. 21) or RDX (Section I, No. 15).


------------------- --------

Litharge (lead monoxide) Section I, No, 18 or plumbing

supplies

Picric acid Section I, No. 21

Wood alcohol (methanol) Paint removers; some antifreezes

Wooden or plastic rod

Dish or saucer (china or glass)


18/54

Teaspoon

Improvised Scale Section VII, No. 8

Containers

Flat pan

Heat source (optional)

Water (optional)

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Weigh 2 grams each of picric acid and lead monoxide. Place each in a sepa-rate container.

2. Place 2 teaspoons (10 milliliters) of the alcohol in a dish. Add the pic-

ric acid to the alcohol and stir with the wooden or plastic rod.

3. Add the lead monoxide to the mixture while stirring.

CAUTION: At this point the solution is a primary explosive. Keep away from

flame.

4. Continue stirring the mixture until the alcohol has evaported. The mixture

will suddenly thicken.

5. Stir mixture occasionally (to stop lumps from forming) until a powder is

formed. A few lumps will remain.

CAUTION: Be very careful of dry material forming on the inside of the container.

6. Spread this powdered mixture, the lead picrate, in a flat pan to air dry.

NOTE: If possible, dry the mixture in a hot, not boiling, water bath for a per-

iod of 2 hours.

Section I

No. 21

PREPARATION OF PICRIC ACID FROM ASPIRIN

Picric acid can be used as a booster explosive in detonators (Section VI,

No. 13), a high explosive charge, or as an intermadiate to preparing lead pic-

rate (Section I, No. 20) or DDNP (Section I, No. 19).

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

Aspirin tablets (5 grams per tablet)

Alcohol, 95% pureSulfuric acid, concentrated, (battery acid - boil until white fumes appear)

Potassium Nitrate (Section I, No. 2)

Water

Paper towels

Canning jar, 1 pint

Rod (glass or wood)

Glass containers

Ceramic or glass dish

Cup


19/54

Teaspoon

Tablespoon

Pan

Heat Source

Tape

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Crush 20 aspirin tablets in a glass container. Add 1 teaspoon of water and

work into a paste.

2. Add approximately 1/3 to 1/2 cup of alcohol (100 milliliters) to the

aspirin paste; stir while pouring.

3. Filter the alcohol-aspirin solution through a paper towel into another

glass container. Discard the solid left on the paper towel.

4. Pour the filtered solution into a ceramic or glass dish.

5. Evaporate the alcohol and water from the solution by placing the dish into

a pan of hot water. White powder will remain in the dish after evaporation.

NOTE: Water in pan should be at hot bath temperature, not boiling, approxi-mately 160 to 180 degrees Farenheit. It should not burn the hands.

6. Pour 1/3 cup (80 milliliters) of concentrated sulfuric acid into a canning

jar. Add the white powder to the sulfuric acid.

7. Heat canning jar of sulfuric acid in a pan of simmering hot water bath for

15 minutes; then remove jar from the bath. Solution will turn to a yellow-

orange color.

8. Add 3 level teaspoons (15 grams) of potassium nitrate in three portions

to the yellow-orange solution; stir vigorously during additions. Solution will

turn red, and then back to a yellow-orange color.

9. Allow the solution to cool to ambient or room temperature while stirring

occasionally.

10. Slowly pour the solution, while stirring, into 1-1/4 cup (300 milliliters)

of cold water and allow to cool.

11. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Light

yellow particles will collect on the paper towel.

12. Wash the light yellow particles with 2 tablespoons (25 milliliters) of

water. Discard the waste liquid in the container.

13. Place particles in ceramic dish and set in a hot water bath, as in step 5,

for 2 hours.

Section I

No. 22

DOUBLE SALTS


20/54

Double Salts is used as a primary explosive in the fabrications of detona-

tors (Section VI, No. 13). It can be made in the field from silver (coins),

nitric acid, calcium carbide, and water.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

Nitric acid (90% conc.) (Section I, No. 4)

Silver metal (silver coin, about 5/8 in. diameter)

Calcium carbine (acetylene or calcium carbine lamps)

Rubber and glass tubing (approx. 1/4 in. inside diameter)Paper towels

Heat-resistant bottles or ceramic jugs, 1 to 2 quart capacity, and one cork to

fit. (Punch hole in cork to fit tubing.)

Teaspoon (aluminum, stainless steel or wax-coated) or equivalent measure

Glass container

Heat source

Long narrow jar (olive jar)

Tape

Water

Alcohol

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Dilute 2-1/4 teaspoons of nitric acid with 1-1/2 teaspoons of water in a

glass container by adding the acid to the water.

2. Dissolve a silver coin (a silver dime) in the diluted nitric acid. The

solution will turn to a green color.

NOTE: It may be necessary to warm the container to completely dissolve the sil-

ver coin.



3. Pour solution into a long narrow (olive) jar and place it in a bottle of

hot water. Crystals will form in the solution; heat until crystals dissolve.

4. While still heating and after crystals have dissolved, place 10 teaspoons

of calcium carbine in another glass bottle and add 1 teaspoon of water. After

the reacion has started add another teaspoon of water. Then set up as shown.

TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT

***T** \ T

* T * Tubing *********

********** * T *

* * T * * * T *

* * T * * * T *

* * * *-Bottle with * T *-Receiving jar with* * * * narrow jar. * * cork.

* ****** * * *

********** *********

HHHHHHHHHHHHHH-Heat source

5. Bubble acetylene through the solution for 5 to 8 minutes. A brown vapor

will be given off and white flakes will appear in the silver solution.

6. Remove the silver solution from the heat source and allow it to cool. Fil-


21/54

ter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Green crystals

will collect on the paper.

7. Wash the solids collected on the paper towel with 12 teaspoons of alcohol.

The solid material will turn white while the solvent in the container will have

a green color.

8. Place the white solid material on a clean papaer towel to air dry.

CAUTION: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle roughly.

Keep away from sparks or open flames. Store is cool, dry place.

Section I

No. 23

SODIUM CHLORATE

Sodium chlorate is a strong oxidizer used in the manufacture of explosives.

It can be used in place of potassium chlorate (see Section I, No. 1).

MATERIALS REQUIRED: SOURCES:------------------- --------

2 carbon or lead rods (1 in. Dry cell batteries (2-1/2 in.

diameter x 5 in. long) diameter x 7 in. long) or

plumbing supply store

Salt or, ocean water Grocery store or ocean

Sulfuric acid, diluted Motor vehicle batteries

Motor vehicle

Water

2 wires, 16 gauge (3/64 in.

diameter approx.), 6 ft.

long, insulated

Gasoline

1 gallon glass jar, wide mouth

(5 in. diameter x 6 in. high

approx.)

Sticks

String

Teaspoon

Trays

Cup

Heavy cloth

Knife

Large flat pan or tray

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Mix 1.2 cup of salt into the one gallon glass jar with 3 liters (3 quarts)

of water.

2. Add 2 teaspoons of battery acid to the solution and stir vigorously for 5

minutes.

3. Strip about 4 inches of insulation from both ends of the 2 wires.


22/54

4. With knife and sticks shape 2 strips of wood 1 x 1/8 x 1-1/2. Tie the wood

strips to the lead or catbon rods so that they are 1-1/2 inches spart.

5. Connect the rods to the battery in a motor vehicle with the insulated

wire.

6. Submerge 4-1/2 in. of the rods into the salt water solution.

7. With gear in neutral position, start the vehicle engine. Depress the acce-

lerator approximately 1/5 of its full travel.

8. Run the engine with the accelerator in this position for 2 hours; then,

shut it down 2 hours.

9. Repeat this cycle for a total of 64 hours while maintaining the level of

the acid-salt water solution in the glass jar.

CAUTION: This arrangement employs voltages which may be dangerous to personnel.

Do not tough bare wire leads while engine is running.

10. Shut off the engine. Remove the rods from the glass jar and disconnect

wire leads from the battery.

11. Filter the solution through the heavy cloth into a flat pan otr tray,leaving the sediment at the bottom of the glass jar.

12. Allow the water in the filtered solution to evaporate at room temperature

(approx. 16 hours). The residue is approximately 60% or more sodium chlorate

which is pure enough to be used as an explosive ingredient.

Section I

No. 24

MERCURY FULMINATE

-----------------

Mercury Fulminate is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of deto-

nators (Section VI, No. 13). It is to be used with a booster explosive such as

picric acid (Section I, No. 21) or RDX (Section I, No. 15).


------------------- --------

Nitric Acid. 90% conc. (1.48 Field grade (Section I, No. 4) or

sp. gr.) industrial metal processors

Mercury Thermometers, mercury switches,

old radio tubes

Ethyl (grain) alcohol (90%)Filtering material Paper towels

Teaspoon measure (1/4, 1/2, and

1 teaspoon capacity) - alu-

minum, stainless steel or

wax-coated

Heat source

Clean wooden stick

Clean water

Glass containers


23/54

Tape

Syringe

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Dilute 5 teaspoons of nitric acid with 2-1/2 teaspoons of clean water in

a glass container by adding the acid to the water.

2. Dissolve 1/8 teaspoon of mercury in the diluted nitric acid. This will

yield dark red fumes.

NOTE: It may be necessary to add water, one drop at a time, to the mercury-acid

solution in order to start reaction.



3. Warm 10 teaspoons of the alcohol in a container until the alcohol feels

warm to the inside of the wrist.

4. Pour the metal-acid solution into the warm alcohol. Reaction should start

in less than 5 minutes. Dense white fumes will be given off during reaction. As

time lapses, the fumes will become less dense. Allow 10 to 15 minutes to com-plete reaction. Fulminate will settle to bottom.

CAUTION: This reaction generates large quantiries of toxic, flammable fumes.

The process must be conducted outdoors or in a well ventilated area, away from

sparks or open flames. Do not inhale fumes.

5. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a container. Crystals may

stick to the side of the container. If so, tilt and squirt water down the sides

of the container until all the material collects on the filter paper.

6. Wash the crystals with 6 teaspoons of ethyl alcohol.

7. Allow these mercury fulminate crystals to air dry.

CAUTION: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it

roughly. Keep away from sparks or open flames. Store in cool, dry place.

Section I

No. 25

SODIUM CHLORATE AND SUGER OR ALUMINUM EXPLOSIVE

An explosive munition can be made from sodium chlorate combinated with gran-

ular suger, or aluminum powder. This explosive can be detonaded with a #8 com-mercial or a Military J-2 blasting cap.


------------------- --------

Sodium chlorate Section I, No. 23

Granular sugar Food store

Aluminum powder Paint Store

Wooden rod or stick


24/54

Bottle or jar

Blasting cap

Steel pipe (threaded at one

end), end cap and tape

Wax

Measuring container (cup, quart,

etc.)

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Add three volumes (cups, quarts, etc.) sodium chlorate to one volume alu-

minum, or two granular sugar, in bottle or jar.

2. Mix ingredients well by stirrin with the wooden rod or stick.

HOW TO USE:

-----------

1. Wax blasting cap, pipe and end cap.

2. Thread end cap onto pipe.

3. Pour mixture into pipe.

4. Insert and tape blasting cap just beneath surface of mixture.

NOTE: Confining the open end of the pipe will add to the effectiveness of the

explosive.

Pace, 1993. SWEDEN.


25/54


CHAPTER II

----------

MINES AND GRENADES

NOTE: This is Chapter II of The Improvised Munition Handbook.

Section II

No. 1

PIPE HAND GRENADE

Hand grenades can be made from a piece of iron pipe. The filler can be plas-

tic or granular military explosive, or propellant from shotgun or small arms

ammunition.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

Iron pipe, threaded ends, 1 1/2" to 3" diam., 3" to 8" long.

Two (2) iron pipe caps.

Explosive or propellant

Non-Electric blasting cap. (Commercial or military)

Fuse cord

Hand drill

Pliers

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Place blasting cap on one end of fuse cord and crimp with pliers.

NOTE: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it takes a

known length to burn. If 12 inches burns in 30 seconds, a 6-inch cord will ig-

nite the grenade in 15 seconds.

2. Screw pipe cap to one end of pipe. Place fuse cord with blasting cap into

the opposite end so the\at the blasting cap is near the center of the pipe.

NOTE: If plastic explosive is to be used, fill pipe before inserting blasting

cap. Push a round stick into the center of the explosive to make a hole and

then insert the blasting cap.

3. Pour explosive or propellant into pipe a little bit at a time. Tap the

base of the pipe frequently to settle filler.

4. Drill a hole in the center of the unassembled pipe cap large enough for

the fuse cord to pass through.

5. Wipe pipe threads to remove any filler material.

Section II

No. 2


26/54

NAIL GRENADE

Effective fragmentation grenades can be made from a block of TNT or other

blasting explosive and nails.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

Block of TNT or other blasting explosiveNails

Non-Electric Military blasting cap

Fuse cord

Tape, string, wire or glue

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. If an explosive charge other than a standard TNT block is used, make a

hole in the center of the charge for inserting the blasting cap. TNT can be

drilled with relative safety. With plastic explosives, a hole can be made by

pressing a round stick into the center of the charge. The hole should be deep

enough that the blasting cap is totally within the explosive.

2. Tape, tie or glue one or two rows of clasely packed nails to sides of ex-

plosive block. Nails should completely cover the four surfaces of the block.

3. Place blasting cap on one end of the fuse cord and crimp with pliers.

NOTE: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it takes a

known length to burn. If 12 inches burns in 30 seconds, a 10 second delay will

require a 4 inch (10 cm) fuse.

4. Insert the blasting cap in the hole in the block of explosive. Tape or tie

fuse cord securely in place so that it will not fall out when the grenade is

thrown.

ALTERNATE USE:

--------------

An effective directional anti-personnel mine can be made by placing nails on

only one side of the explosive block. For this case, an electric blasting cap

can be used.

Section II

No. 3

WINE BOTTLE CONE CHARGE

This cone charge will penetrate 3 to 4 inches of armor. Placed on an engine

or engine compartment it will disable a tank or other vehicle.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

Glass wine bottle with false bottom (cone shaped)


27/54

Plastic or castable explosive

Blasting cap

Gasoline or Kerosene (small amount)

String

Adhesive tape

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Soak a piece of string in gasoline or kerosene. Double wrap this string

around the wine bottle approximately 3 in. (7 1/2 cm) above the top of thecone.

NOTE: A small amount of motor oil added to the gasoline or kerosene will im-

prove results.

2. Ignite the string and allow to burn for 1 to 2 minutes. Then plunge the

bottle into cold water to crack the bottle. The top half can now be easily re-

moved and discarded.

3. If plastic explosive is used:

(a) pack explosive into the bottle a little at a time compressing with a

wooden rod. Fill the bottle to the top.

(b) press a 1/4 in. wooden dowel 1/2 in. (12mm) into the middle of the top

of the explosive charge to form a hole for the blasting cap.

4. If TNT or other castable explosive is used:

(a) break explosive into small pieces using a wooden mallet or non-sparking

metal tools. Place pieces in a tin can.

(b) suspend this can in a larger container which is partly filled with water.

A stiff wire or stick pushed through the smaller can will accomplish this.

CAUTION: The inner can must not rest on the bottom of the outer container.

(c) heat the container on an electric hot plate or other heat source. Stir

the explosive frequently with a wooden stick while it is melting.

CAUTION: Keep area well ventilated while melting explosive. Fumes may be poi-

sonous.

(d) when all the explosive has melted, remove the inner container and stir

the molten explosive until it begins to thicken. During this time the bottom

half of the wine bottle should be placed in the container of hot water. This

will pre-heat the bottle so that it will not crack when the explosive is

poured.

(e) Remove the bottle from hot water and dry thoroughly. Pour molten explo-sive into the bottle and allow to cool. The crust which forms on top of the

charge during cooling should be broken with a wooden stick and more explosive

added. Do this as often as necessary until the bottle is filled to the top.

(f) When explosive has completely hardened, bore a hole for the blasting cap

in the middle of the top of the charge about 1/2 in. (12mm) deep.

HOW TO USE:

-----------


28/54

1. Place blasting cap in the hole in the top of the charge. If non-electric

cap is used be sure cap is crimped around fuze and fuze is long enough to pro-

vide safe delay.

2. Place the charge so that the bottom is 3 to 4 in. (7 1/2 to 10 cm) from

the target. This can be done by taping legs to the charge or any other conve-

nient means as long as there is nothing between the base of the charge and the

target.

3. If electric cap is used, connect blasting cap wires to firing circuit.

NOTE: The effectiveness of this charge can be increased by placing it inside a

can, box, or similar container and packing sand or dirt between the charge and

the container.

Section II

No. 4

GRENADE-TIN CAN LAND MINE

This device can be used as a land mine that will explode when the trip wire

is pulled.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

Hand grenade having side safety lever.

Sturdy container, open at one end, that is just large enough to fit over gre-

nade and its the safety lever (tin can of proper size is suitable).

Strong string or wire

NOTE: The container must be of such a size that, when the grenade is placed in

it and the safety pin removed, its sides will prevent the safety lever from

springing open. One end must be completely open.

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Fasten one piece of string to the closed end of container, making a strong

connection. This can be done by punching 2 holes in the can, looping the string

through them, and tying a knot.

2. Tie free end of this string to bush, stake, fencepost, etc.

3. Fasten another length of string to the grenade such that it cannot inter-

fere with the functioning of the ignition mechanism of the grenade.

4. Insert grenade into container.

5. Lay free length of string across path and fasten to stake, bush, etc. The

string should remain taut.

HOW TO USE:

-----------

1. Carefully with safety pin by pulling on ring. Be sure safety lever is re-


29/54

strained during this operation. Grenade will function in normal manner when

trip wire is pulled.

NOTE: In areas where concealment is possible, a greater effect may be obtained

by suspending the grenade several feet above ground, as illustrated below.

Section II

No. 5

MORTAR SCRAP MINE

A directional shrapnel launcher that can be placed in the path of advancing

troops.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

Iron pipe approximately 3 ft. (1meter) long and 2 in. to 4 in. (5 to 10 cm) in

diameter and threaded on at least one end. Salvaged artillery cartridge case

may also be used.

Threaded cap to fit pipe.Black powder or salvaged artillery propellant about 1/2 lb. (200 gms) total.

Electrical igniter (commercial SQUIB or improvised igniter, Section VI, No. 1).

Safety or improvised fuse may also be used.

Small stones about 1 in. (2-1/2 cm) in diameter or small size scrap; about 1

lb. (400 gms) total.

Rags for wadding, each about 20 in. by 20 in. (50 cm x 50 cm)

Paper or rag

Battery and wire

Stick (non-matallic)

NOTE: Be sure pipe has no cracks or flaws.

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Screw threaded cap onto pipe.

2. Place propellant and igniter in paper or rag and tie package with string

so contents will not fall out.

3. Insert packaged propellant and igniter into pipe until package rests

against threaded cap leaving firing leads extending from open end of pipe.

4. Roll rag till it is about 6 in. (15-1/2 cm) long and the same diameter as

pipe. Insert rag wadding against packaged propellant igniter. With caution,

pack tightly using stick.

5. Insert stones and/or scrap metal into pipe.

6. Insert second piece of rag wadding against stones and/or metal scrap. Pack

tightly as before.

HOW TO USE:

-----------

1. Bury pipe in ground with open end facing the expected path of the enemy.


30/54

The open end may be covered with cardboard and a thin layer of dirt or leaves

as camouflage.

2. Connect firing leads to battery and switch. Mine can be remotely fired

when needed or attached to trip device placed in path of advancing troops.

NOTE: A NON-ELECTRIC ignition system can be substituted for the electrical ig-

nition system as follows.

1. Follow above procedure, substituting safety fuse for igniter.

2. Light safety fuse when ready to fire.

Section II

No. 6

COKE BOTTLE SHAPED CHARGE

This shaped charge will penetrate 3 in. (7-1/2 com) of armor. (It will dis-

able a vehicle if placed on the engine compartment).

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

Glass Coke bottle, 6-1/2 oz. size

Plastic or castable explosive, about 1 lb. (454 gms)

Blasting cap

Metal cylinder, open at both ends, about 6 in. (15 cm) long and 2 in. (5 cm)

inside diameter. Cylinder should be heavy walled for best result.

Plug to fit mouth of coke bottle (rags, metal, wood, paper, etc.)

Non-metal rod about 1/4 in. (6 mm) in diameter and 8 in. (20 cm) or more in

length

Tape or string

2 tin cans if castable explosive is used (See Section II, No. 3)

NOTE: Cylinder may be cardboard, plastic, etc. if castable explosive is used.

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Place plug in mouth of bottle.

2. Place cylinder over top of bottle until bottom of cylinder rests on widest

part of bottle. Tape cylinder to bottle. Container should be straight on top of

bottle.


a. Place explosive in cylinder a little at a time tamping with rod until

cylinder is full.

b. Press the rod about 1/2 in. (1 cm) into the middle of the top of the ex-

plosive charge to form a hole for the blasting cap.

4. If castable explosive is used, follow procedure of Wine Bottle Cone

Charge, Section II, No. 3, Step 4, a through f.


31/54

HOW TO USE:

-----------

Method I. If electrical blasting cap is used:

1. Place blasting cap in hole in top of explosive.

CAUTION: Do not insert blasting cap until charge is ready to be detonated.

2. Place bottom of Coke Bottle flush against the target. If target is not

flat and horizontal, fasten bottle to target by any convenient means, such asby placing tape or string around target and top of bottle. Bottom of bottle

acts as stand-off.

CAUTION: Be sure that base of bottle is flush against target and that there is

nothing between the target and the base of the bottle.

3. Connect leads from blasting cap to firing circuit.

Method II: If non-electrical blasting cap is used:

1. Crimp cap around fuse.

CAUTION: Be sure fuse is long enough to provide a safe delay.

2. Follow steps 1, 2, and CAUTIONS of Method I.

3. Light fuse when ready to fire.

Section II

No. 7

CYLINRICAL CAVITY SHAPED CHARGE

A shaped charge can be made from common pipe. It will penetrate 1-1/2 in.

(3-1/2 cm) of steel, producing a hole 1-1/2 in. (3-1/2 cm) in diameter.

MATERIAL REQUIRED:

------------------

Iron or steel pipe, 2 to 2-1/2 in. (5to 6-1/2 com) in diameter and 3 to 4 in.

(7-1/2 to 10 cm) long

Metal pipe, 1/2 to 3/4 in. (1-1/2 to 2 cm) in diameter an 1-1/2 in. (3-1/2 cm)

long, open at both ends. (The wall of the pipe should be as thin as possi-

ble.)

Blasting capNon-metallic rod, 1/4 in. (6 mm) in diameter

Plastic or castable explosive

2 metal cans of different sizes (If castable explosive is used)

Stick or wire (If castable explosive is used)

Heat source (If castable explosive is used)

PROCEDURE:

----------


32/54


a. Place larger pipe on flat surface. Hand pack and tamp explosive into pipe.

Leave approximately 1/4 in. (6 mm) space at top.

b. Push rod into center of explosive. Enlarge hole in explosive to diameter

and length of small pipe.

c. Insert small pipe into hole.

IMPORTANT: Be sure direct contact is made between explosive and small pipe.Tamp explosive around pipe by hand if necessary.

d. Make sure that there is 1/4 in. (6 mm) empty space above small pipe. Re-

move explosive if necessary.

e. Turn pipe upside down and push rod 1/2 in. (1-1/4 cm) into center of oppo-

site end of explosive to form a hole for the blasting cap.

CAUTION: Do not insert blasting cap in hole until ready to fire shaped charge.

2. If TNT or other castable explosive is used:

a. Follow procedure, Section II, No. 3, Step 4, Parts a, b, c, including CAU-TIONS.

b. When all the explosive has melted, remove the inner container and stir the

molten explosive until it begins to thicken.

c. Place large pipe on flat surface. Pour explosive into pipe until it is 1-

3/4 in. (4 cm) from the top.

d. Place small pipe in center of large pipe so that it rests on top of explo-

sive. Holding small pipe in place, pour explosive around small pipe until ex-

plosive is 1/4 in. (6 mm) from top of large pipe.

e. Allow explosive to cool. Break crust that forms on top of the charge du-

ring cooling with a wooden stick and add more explosive. Do this as often as

necessary until explosive is 1/4 in. (6 mm) from top.

f. When explosive has completely hardened, turn pipe upside down and bore a

hole for the blasting cap in the middle of the top of the charge about 1/2 in.

(1-1/4 cm) deep.

HOW TO USE:

-----------

Method I - If elecrical blasting cap is used:

1. Place blasting cap in hole made for it.

CAUTION: Do not insert blasting cap until charge is ready to fire.

2. Place other end of pipe flush against the target. Fasten pipe to target by

any convenient means, such as by placing tape or string around target and top

of pipe, if target is not flat and horizontal.

CAUTION: Be sure that the base of pipe is flush against target and that there

is nothing between the target and the base of the pipe.


33/54

3. Connect leads from blasting cap to firing circuit.

Method II - If non-electrical blasting cap is used:

1. Crimp cap around fuse.

CAUTION: Be sure fuse is long enough to provide a safe delay.

2. Follow Steps 1, 2, and CAUTION of Method I.

3. Light fuse when ready to fire.

Section II

No. 9

FUNNEL SHAPED CHARGE

An effective shaped charge can be made using various types of commercial

funnels. See table for penetration capabilities.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

Container (soda or beer can , etc.), approximately 2-1/2 in. diameter x 5 in.

long (6-1/4 cm x 12-1/2 cm)

Funnel(s) (glass, steel, or aluminum) 2-1/2 in. (6-1/2 com) in diameter

Wooden rod or stick, 1/4 in. (6 mm) in diameter

Tape

Blasting cap (electrical or non-electrical)

Sharp cutting edge

Explosive

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Remove the top and bottom from can and discard.

2. Cut off and throw away the spout of the funnel(s).

NOTE: When using 3 funnels (see table), place the midified funnels together at

the outer ridges.

3. Place the funnel(s) in the modified can. Tape on outer ridges to hold

funnel(s) to can.

4. If plastic explosive is used, fill the can with the explosive using small

quantities, and tamp with wooden rod or stick.

NOTE: If castable explosive is used, refer to step 4 of Section II, No. 3.

5. Cut wooden rod to length 3 inches longer than the standoff length. (See

table.) Position three of these rods around the explosive filled can and hold

in place with tape.

NOTE: The position of the rods on the container must conform to standoff dim-

ensions to obtain the penetrations given in the table.


34/54

TABLE

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Funnel No. of Standoff Penetration

Material Funnels inches metric inches metric

Glass 1 3-1/2 9 cm 4 10 cm

Steel 3 1 2-1/2 cm 2-1/2 6 cm

Aluminum 3 3-1/2 9 cm 2-1/2 6 cm

* If only one steel or aluminum funnel is available:

Steel 1 1 2-1/2 cm 1-1/2 4 cm

Aluminum 1 1 2-1/2 cm 1-1/2 4 cm

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

6. Make a hole for blasting cap in the center of the explosive with rod or

stick.

CAUTION: Do not place blasting cap in place until the Funnel Shaped Charge isready for use.

HOW TO USE:

-----------

1. Place blasting cap in the hole in top of the charge. If non-electrical cap

is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuse and fuse is long enough to provide

safe delay.

2. Place (tape if necessary) the Funnel Shaped Charge on the target so that

nothing is between the base of charge and target.


Section II

No. 10

LINEAR SHAPED CHARGE

This shaped charge made from construction materials will cut through up to

nearly 3 inches of armor depending upon the liner used (see table).

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

Standard structural angle or pipe (see table)

Wood or cardboard container

Hacksaw (If pipe is used)

Vice (If pipe is used)

Wooden rod, 1/4 in. (6 mm) diameter

Explosive

Blasting cap

Tape


35/54

TABLE

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Type Material Liner Size Standoff Penetration

in. - Nom. inches metric inches metric

angle steel 3 x 3 legs x 2 5 cm 1-3/4 7 cm

1/4 web

angle aluminum 2 x 2 legs x 5-1/2 14 cm 2-1/2 6 cm

3/16 web

pipe half aluminum 2 diameter 2 5 cm 2 5 cm

section

pipe half copper 2 diameter 1 2-1/2 cm 1-3/4 4 cm

section

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTE: These were the only linear shaped charges of this type that were found to

be more efficient than the Ribbon Charge.

Ribbon Charge: No standoff is required; juat place on target.

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. If pipe is used --

a. Place the pipe the vise and cut pipe in half length-wise. Remove the pipe

half sections from vise.

b. Discard one of the pipe half sections, or save for another charge.

2. Place angle or pipe half section with open end face down on a flat sur-

face.

3. Make container from any material available. The container must be as wide

as the angle or pipe half section, twice as high, and as long as the desired

cut to be made with the charge.

4. Place container over the liner (angle or pipe half section) and tape liner

to container.

5. If plastic explosive is used, fill the container with the explosive using

small quantities, and tamp with wooden rod or stick.

NOTE: If castable explosive is used, refer to step 4 of Section II, No. 3.

6. Cut wooden rod to lengths 2 inches longer than the standoff length (see

table). Position the rods at the corners of the explosive filled container andhold in place with tape.

NOTE: The position of the rods on the container must conform to standoff and

penetration dimensions given in the table.

7. Make a hole for blasting cap in the side of the container 1/2 in. above

the liner and centered with the wooden rod.

CAUTION: Do not place blasting cap in place until the Linear Shaped Charge is


36/54

ready for use.

HOW TO USE:

-----------

1. Place blasting cap into hole on the side of the container. If non-electric

cap is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuse and fuse is long enough to pro-

vide safe delay.

2. Place (tape if necessary) the Linear Shaped Charge on the target so that

nothing is between base of charge and target.


Pace, 1993. SWEDEN.


37/54


CHAPTER II

----------

SMALL ARMS WEAPONS AND AMMUNITION

NOTE: This is Chapter III of The Improvised Munition Handbook.

Section III

No. 1

PIPE PISTOL FOR 9 MM AMMUNITION

A 9 mm pistol can be made from 1/4" steel gas or water pipe and fittings.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

1/4" nominal size steel pipe 4 to 6 inches long with threaded ends.

1/4" Solid pipe plug

Two (2) steel pipe couplingsMetal strap - roughly 1/8" x 1/4" x 5"

Two (2) elastic bands

Flat head nail - 6D or 8D (approx. 1/16" diameter)

Two (2) wood screws #8

Wood 8" x 5" x 1"

Drill

1/4" wood or metal rod, (approx. 8" long)

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.

a. Make sure that there are NO cracks or other flaws in the pipe or fittings.

b. Check inside diameter of pipe using a 9 mm cartridge as a gauge. The

bullet should closely fit into the pipe without forcing but the cartridge

case SHOULD NOT fit into pipe.

c. Outside diameter of pipe MUST NOT BE less than 1 1/2 times bullet diameter

(.536 inches; 1.37 cm)

2. Drill a 9/16" (1.43 cm) diameter hole 3/8" (approx. 1 cm) into one

coupling to remove the thread.

Drilled section should fit tightly over smooth section of pipe.

3. Drill a 25/64" (1 cm) diameter hole 3/4" (1.9 cm) into pipe. Use cartridge

as a gauge; when a cartridge is inserted into the pipe, the base of the case

should be even with the end of the pipe. Thread coupling tightly onto pipe,

drilled end first.

4. Drill a hole in the center of the pipe plug just large enough for the nail

to fit through.

NOTE: Hole MUST be centered in plug.


38/54

5. Push nail through plug until haed of nail is flush with square end. Cut

nail off at other end 1/16" (.158 cm) away from plug. Round off end of nail

with file.

6. Bend metal strap to "U" shape and drill holes for wood screws. File two

small notches at top.

7. Saw or otherwise shape 1" (2.54 cm) thick hard wood into stock.

8. Drill a 9/16" diameter (1.43 cm) hole through the stock. The center of thehole should be approximately 1/2" (1.27 cm) from the top.

9. Slide the pipe through this hole and attach front coupling. Screw drilled

plug into rear coupling.

NOTE: If 9/16" drill is not available cut a "V" groove in the top of the stock

and tape pipe securely in place.

10. Position metal strap on stock so that top will hit the head of the nail.

Attach to stock with wood screw on each side.

11. String elastic bands from front coupling to notch on each side of the

strap.

SAFETY CHECK - TEST FIRE PISTOL BEFORE HAND FIRING

--------------------------------------------------

1. Locate a barrier such as a stone wall or large tree which you can stand

behind in case the pistol ruptures when fired.

2. Mount pistol solidly to a table or other rigid support at least ten feet

in front of the barrier.

3. Attach a cord to the firing strap on the pistol.

4. Holding the other end of the cord, go behind the barrier.

5. Pull the cord so that the firing strap is held back.

6. Release the cord to fire the pistol. (If pistol does not fire, shorten the

elastic bands or increase their number.)

IMPORTANT: Fire at least five rounds from behind the barrier and then re-in-

spect the pistol before you attempt to hand fire it.

HOW TO OPERATE PISTOL:

----------------------

1. To Load:

a. Remove plug from rear coupling.

b. Place cartridge into pipe.

c. Replace plug.

2. To Fire:

a. Pull strap back and hold with thumb until ready.


39/54

b. Release strap.

3. To Remove Shell Case:

a. Remove plug from rear coupling.

b. Insert 1/4" diameter steel or wooden rod into front of pistol and push

shell case out.

Section III

No. 2

SHOTGUN (12 GAUGE)

A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from 3/4" water or gas pipe adn fittings.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

Wood 2" x 4" x 32"

3/4" nominal size water or gas pipe 20" to 30" long threaded on one end.3/4" steel coupling

Solid 3/4" pipe plug

Metal strap (1/4" x 1/16" x 4")

Twine, heavy (100 yards approximately)

3 wood screws and screwdriver

Flat head nail 6D or 8D

Hand drill

Saw or knife

File

Shellac or lacquer

Elastic Bands

PROCEDURE:

----------


a. Make sure that there are NO cracks or other flaws.

b. Check inside diameter of pipe. A 12-gauge shot shell should fit into the

pipe but the brass rim should not fit.

c. Outside diameter of pipe must be at least 1 in. (2.54 cm).

2. Cut stock from wood using a saw or knife.

3. Cut a 3/8" deep "V" groove in top on the stock.

4. Turn coupling onto pipe until tight.

5. Coat pipe and "V" groove of stock with shellac or lacquer and, while still

wet, place pipe in "V" groove and wrap pipe and stock together using two heavy

layers of twine. Coat twine with shellac or lacquer after each layer.

6. Drill a hole through center of pipe plug large enough for nail to pass

through.


40/54

7. File threaded end of plug flat.

8. Push nail through plug and cut off flat 1/32" past the plug.

9. Screw plug into coupling.

10. Bend 4" metal strap into "L" shape and drill hole for wood screw. Notch

metal strap on the long side 1/2" from bend.

11. Position metal strap on stock so that top will hit the head of the nail.Attach to stock with wood screw.

12. Place screw in each side of stock about 4" in front of metal strap. Pass

elastic bands through notch in metal strap and attach to screw on each side of

the stock.

SAFETY CHECK - TEST FIRE SHOTGUN BEFORE HAND FIRING

--------------------------------------------------

1. Locate a barrier such as a stone wall or large tree which you can stand

behind in case the shotgun explodes when fired.

2. Mount shotgun solidly to a table or other rigid support at least ten feetin front of the barrier.

3. Attach a cord to the firing strap on the shotgun.



6. Release the cord to fire the shotgun. (If shotgun does not fire, shorten

the elastic bands or increase their number.)

IMPORTANT: Fire at least five rounds from behind the barrier and then re-in-

spect the shotgun before you attempt to shoulder fire it.

HOW TO OPERATE SHOTGUN:

-----------------------

1. To Load:

a. Take plug out of coupling.

b. Put shotgun shell into pipe.

c. Screw plug hand-tight into coupling.

2. To Shot:

a. Pull strap back and hold with thumb.

b. Release strap.

3. To Unload Gun:


b. Shake out used cartridge.


41/54

Section III

No. 3

SHOTSHELL DISPERSION CONTROL

When desired, shotshell can be modified to reduce shot dispersion.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:-------------------

Shotshell

Screwdriver or knife

Any of the following filler materials:

Crushed Rice

Rice Flour

Dry Bread Crumbs

Fine Dry Sawdust

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Carefully remove crimp from shotshell using a screwdriver or knife.

NOTE: If cartridge is of roll-crimp type, remove top wad.

2. Pour shot from shell.

3. Replace one layer of shot in the cartridge. Pour in filler material to fill

the spaces between the shot.

4. Repeat Step 3 until all shot has been replaced.

5. Replace top wad (if applicable) and re-fold crimp.

6. Roll shell on flat surface to smooth out crimp and restore roundness.

7. Seal end of case with wax.

HOW TO USE:

-----------

This round is loaded and fired in the same manner as standard shotshell. The

shot spread will be about 2/3 that of a standard round.

Section III

No. 4

CARBINE (7.62 mm Standard Rifle Ammunition)

A rifle can be made from water or gas pipe and fittings. Standard cartridge

are used for ammunition.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------


42/54

Wood approximately 2" x 4" x 30"

1/4" nominal size iron water or gas pipe 20" long threaded at one end.

3/8" to 1/4 reducer

3/8" x 1-1/2" threaded pipe

3/8" pipe coupling

Metal strap approximately 1/2" x 1/16" x 4".

Twine, heavy (100 yards approx.)

3 wood screws and screwdriver

Flat head nail about 1" long

Hand drill

Saw or knifeFile

Pipe wrench

Shellac or laqcuer

Elastic bands

Solid 3/8" pipe plug

PROCEDURE:

----------

1. Inspect pipe and fittings carefully.

a. Be sure that there are NO cracks or flaws.

b. Check inside diameter of pipe. A 7.62 mm projectile should fit into 3/8"

pipe.

2. Cut stock from wood using saw or knife.

3. Cut a 1/4" deep "V" groove in top of the stock.

4. Fabricate rifle barrel from pipe.

a. File or drill inside diameter of threaded end of 20" pipe for about 1/4"

so neck of cartridge case will fit in.

b. Screw reducer onto threaded pipe using pipe wrench.

c. Screw short threaded pipe into reducer.

d. Turn 3/8 pipe coupling onto threaded pipe using pipe wrench. All fittings

should be as tight as possible. Do not split fittings.

5. Coat pipe and "V" groove of stock with shellac or lacquer. While still

wet, place pipe in "V" groove and wrap pipe and stock together using two

layers of twine. Coat twine with shellac or lacquer after each layer.

6. Drill a hole through center of pipe plug large enough for nail to pass

through.

7. File threaded end of plug flat.

8. Push nail through plug and out off rounded 1/32" (2 mm) past the plug.

9. Screw plug into coupling.

10. Bend 4" metal strap into "L" shape and drill hole for wood screw. Notch

metal strap on the long side 1/2" from bend.

11. Position metal strap on stock so that top will hit the head of the nail.


43/54

Attach to stock with wood screw.

12. Place screw in each side of stock about 4" in front of metal strap. Pass

elastic bands through notch in metal strap and attach to screw on each side of

the stock.

SAFETY CHECK - TEST FIRE RIFLE BEFORE HAND FIRING

-------------------------------------------------

1. Locate a barrier such as a stone watt or large tree which you can stand

behind to test fire weapon.

2. Mount rifle solidly to a table or other rigid support at least ten feet in

front of the barrier.

3. Attach a long cord to the firing strap on the rifle.



6. Release the cord to fire the rifle. (If the rifle does not fire, shorten

the elastic bands or increase their number.)

IMPORTANT: Fire at least five rounds from behind a barrier and then reinspect

the rifle before you attempt to shoulder fire it.

HOW TO OPERATE RIFLE:

---------------------

1. To Load:

a. Remove plug from coupling.

b. Put cartridge into pipe.

c. Screw plug hand-tight into coupling.

2. To Fire:

a. Pull strap back and hold with thumb.

b. Release strap.

3. To Unload Gun:


b. Drive out used case using stick or twig.

Section III

No. 5

REUSABLE PRIMER

A method of making a previously fired primer reusable.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:


44/54

-------------------

Used cartridge case

2 long nails having approximately the same diameter as the inside of the

primer pocket

"Strike-anywhere" matches - 2 or 3 are needed for each primer

Vise

Hammer

Knife or other sharp edged instrument

PROCEDURE:----------

1. File one nail to a needle point so that it is small enough to fit through

hole in primer pocket.

2. Place cartridge case and nail between jaws of vise. Force out fired primer

with nail.

3. Remove anvil from primer cup.

4. File down point of second nail until tip is flat.

5. Remove indentations from face of primer cup with hammer and flattenednail.

6. Cut off tips of the heads of "strike-anywhere" matches using knife. Care-

fully crush the matches tips on dry surface with wooden match stick until the

mixture is the consistency of sugar.

CAUTION: Do not crush more than 3 match tips at one time or the mixture may

explode.

7. Pour mixture into primer cup. Compress mixture with wooden match stick un-

til primer cup is fully packed.

8. Place anvil in primer pocket with legs down.

9. Place cup in pocket with mixture facing downward.

10. Place cartridge case and primer cup between vise jaws, and press slowly

until primer is seated into bottom of pocket. The primer is now ready to use.

Section III

No. 6

PIPE PISTOL FOR .45 CALIBER AMMUNITION

A .45 caliber pistol can be made from 3/8" nominal diameter steel gas orwater pipe and fittings. Lethal range is about 15 yards (13-1/2 meters).

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

-------------------

Steel pipe, 3/8" (1 cm) nominal diameter and 6" (15 cm) long with threaded

ends.

2 threaded couplings to fit pipe

Solid pipe plug to fit pipe coupling


45/54

Hard wood, 8-1/2" x 6-1/2" x 1" (21 cm x 16-1/2 cm x 2-1/2 cm)

Tape or string

Flat head nail, approximately 1/16" (1-1/2 mm) in diameter.

2 wood screws, approximately 1/16" (1-1/2 mm) in diameter.

Metal strap, 5" x 1/4" x 1/8" (12-1/2 cm x 6 mm x 1 mm)

Bolt, 4" (10 cm) long, with nut (optional).

Elastic bands

Drills, one 1/16" (1-1/2 mm) in diameter, and one having same diameter as bolt

(optional)

Rod, 1/4" (6 mm) in diameter and 8" (20 cm) long

Saw or knife

PROCEDURE:

----------


a. Make sure that there are no cracks or other flaws in the pipe and

fittings.

b. Check inside diameter of pipe using a .45 caliber cartridge as a gauge.

The catridge case should fit into the pipe snugly but without forcing.

c. Outside diameter of pipe MUST NOT BE less than 1-1/2 times the bulletdiameter.

2. Follow procedure of Section III, No. 1, steps 4, 5, and 6.

3. Cut stock from wood using saw or knife.

---------------------------

Inches Centimeters

1-1/2 4

8-1/2 26-1/2

6 20

5 12-1/2

---------------------------

4. Cut a 3/8" (9-1/2 mm) deep groove in top of stock.

5. Screw couplings onto pipe. Screw plug into one coupling.

6. Securely attach pipe to stock using string or tape.

7. Foolw procedures of Section III, No 1, steps 10 and 11.

8. (Optional) Bend bo

Documents

US Army Improvised Munitions Handbook TM31-210 54p