Active wear, performance fabrics and technical textiles play a prominent role in today’s textile market. Water repellency is a critical feature of many of these fabrics and must be accurately measured to validate claims or control production processes—and ultimately to keep consumers happy.

SDL Atlas has introduced a newly designed Hydrostatic Head Tester to easily, accurately, and reproducibly measure the resistance of a fabric to penetration by water under hydrostatic pressure. This new instrument is applicable to all types of woven, knitted, and nonwoven fabrics, including those with water repellant and waterproof finishes. The water repellency of a fabric is affected not only by applied finishes and fabric construction, but also by the repellency of the fibers and yarns used to make the fabric. To fairly and accurately judge the best fabric, several standards have been developed to measure this specific moisture management property (see Standards at right).

The principle of the test is to subject a specimen to hydrostatic pressure, either increasing (dynamic) or static, until 3 points of leakage occur. After a minimum of three specimens are tested, the measurement and calculation of the average maximum hydrostatic pressure in mBar or cm H

2O is the rating of the fabric.

The SDL Atlas Hydrostatic Head Tester is built with a compact design (40% less bench space than some competitive units) and provides the widest versatility of any similar testing instruments on the market today. The screw clamping mechanism holds specimens measuring up to 30 mm thick securely and offers a maximum pressure range of 3 bar (3000 cm H

2O),

unlike competitive instruments which have a more limited range or require two instruments to obtain the range.

The sturdy clamping head design allows clamping of thicker samples without edge leakage while also providing a clear view of the specimen under test which is brightly illuminated by a bank of LEDs. The reservoir automatically refills the test head to the proper level

UPDATEWherever people test textiles you’ll find SDL Atlas Summer 2008

The world’s largest, most complete global source of textile testing, quality control and laboratory equipment.

Solutions by SDL Atlas:

3  Instrumentation3  Installation3  Calibration3  Training3  Support3  Service3  Consumable

Distributors, Agents and Service Centers in over 100 countries

In thIs Issue:

Navigating International Standards Tests ...... 2

Air Permeability Tester Introduced ... 4

At the Testing Forefront ................. 5

AATCC Manual Published in Chinese .................... 6

Standards News ......................... 7

Asian Shows ............ 8

hydrostatic tests now easier, More efficient

continued on page 5 > > >

www.sdlatlas.com

The SDL Atlas Hydrostatic Head Tester

AppLicAbLe STANDARDS AATcc 127

bS eN 20811

bS 2823/3424-26, 29A/29c

iSO 1420A/811

iNDA iST 80.4

JiS L 1092 A/1092 b-b

NF G07-057

eRT-120-1, 160-0

eDANA 120.1-80

DiN 53886

hydrostatic pressure: The force distributed over an area exerted by water

3266 Atlas-SDL Update, Summer08-A4.indd 1 7/15/08 6:00:15 PM

SDL ATLAS UPDATE

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Where Are Your Customers?Navigating international Standards Tests

Meeting international quality standards is a challenge unto itself. Making sure you are performing the right tests can make the job more difficult. Many international standards contain several tests. These tests often sounds the same, but they actually use different types of instruments and standardized consumables—and results may vary from one to the next.

So how do you navigate all of these standards and requirements to ensure you are performing the correct test with the correct equipment and consumables? With our customers we start by asking, “Where are your customers?” Knowing the region of the world where a company is sending its products begins to narrow the testing requirements.

Many regions of the world have area-specific standards, such as Japan with JIS and China with GB standards. This article will focus on the European and American standards. Retailers and specifiers in Europe generally refer to ISO standards in the testing requirements they give their suppliers, while American retailers and specifiers more often utilize AATCC and ASTM standards. What is the difference? Following are examples of different requirements for what may appear to be the same test.

colorfastness to Laundering

This is a common test to check for colorfastness of textiles during the wash process. There are two main differences in this test between what European customers and American customers want. The first is the instrument—specifically, the specimen containers. ISO 105-C06 uses containers with a 550 ml capacity, while AATCC calls for

containers with a 550 ml capacity to simulate handwashing and a 1200 ml capacity for all other options, including simulating machine home laundering and commercial laundering. These standards also orient the containers differently inside the instrument, resulting in a dissimilar mechanical washing action.

The second difference is in the consumables. A multifiber adjacent fabric is attached to the specimen during the test. ISO calls for a warp stripe multifiber, while AATCC instructs the use of a filling stripe multifiber. These different weaves of multifiber can stain differently. A standardized detergent is also required, and this varies between ISO and AATCC.

Dimension Stability (Shrinkage) Testing

Performing a shrinkage test may seem as simple as washing the samples a certain number of times, but are you using the correct washing machine and dryer? American customers usually specify AATCC standards, which call for a standard home top-loading washing machine that meets the requirements in the AATCC Standardization of Home Laundry Test Conditions. Recommended models are specified by AATCC—historically, Kenmore and Whirlpool machines. European customers are likely to specify an ISO or European standard that calls for a front-loading Wascator washing machine and a precision tumble dryer. With each of these tests, there are varying consumables, such as detergents and makeweights, as well as different assessment requirements and tools to aid the marking and measurement process.

SDL ATLAS UPDATE

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UPDATE Summer 2008

3

Resistance to Fuzzing and pilling

There are several different methods of pilling resistance, but the most common method requested by European companies is the ICI Pilling Box test, such as ISO 12945-1. In this test, four specimens are mounted on polyurethane tubes and

tumbled inside of a cork-lined box. The cork lining is not required to be replaced unless its surface becomes polished or contaminated. American companies typically require a pilling test to be done with a Random Tumble Pilling Tester in accordance with ASTM D3512. In this test, the specimen is tumbled freely with some cotton sliver (to accentuate the development of pills) in a horizontal, cork-lined cylinder. The cork lining needs to be changed at more specific intervals to ensure a certain level of friction is maintained in each test.

Different standards have their own assessment photographs that vary from each other for grading purposes. Depending on the standard and option selected by your customer, grading or evaluation is done visually in specifically constructed viewing apparatuses and compared to suitable photographic or fabric standards on a scale of 1 (very severe pilling) to 5 (no pilling). Frequently, European standards call for the tested specimen to be compared to a piece of the original sample and the specimen is rated subjectively on a scale of 1 through 5. ASTM and some private standards allow the use of electronic grading systems, such as the PillGrade®, to eliminate the subjective nature of the evaluation.

colorfastness to perspiration

In perspiration tests, the differences for European and U.S. customers are small but important. During the test setup, the clamping pressure of the AATCC test is lower than that of the ISO test. The ISO test also requires that both alkaline and acid perspiration

solutions be used (two test rigs are needed), while the AATCC

test only requires an acid perspiration solution and one

test rig. The composition of the AATCC and of the ISO acid perspiration solutions are not the same.

Flammability

Flammability standards will always have ties to government regulations or safety requirements. In Europe, most tests can be completed with a single instrument that orients a specimen in a vertical position and can be accomplished in a manual or automated fashion. U.S. federal regulations, ASTM standards, and other American regulatory agencies have different requirements. For textile apparel testing, the most commonly required test instruments are the 45° flame chamber and the vertical flame chamber. These two chambers orient samples differently to achieve test objectives as specified by the standards. Sampling requirements and record-keeping are critical elements in flammability testing in every standard. Careful reading of the relevant standard is a must!

SDL Atlas is Ready to Help

Understanding where your customer base is can begin to simplify the puzzle of what testing needs to be done and what equipment and consumables are needed to perform the appropriate test. SDL Atlas has a full range of products to meet testing requirements from all parts of the world. Our knowledgeable staff are prepared to help you understand your customers’ requirements and verify that you are prepared to do the testing they require.

UPDATE Summer 2008

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SDL ATLAS UPDATE

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Air Permeability tester easiest Route to Meeting standards

Fabrics for products as varied as air bags, clothing, parachutes, sails, tents and awnings, gas filters, and vacuum cleaner bags depend on air permeability for their performance. Air permeability ensures the breathability of weather resistant and rainproof fabrics, and in garments it is a critically important for comfort. Specifications for air permeability are also used for military and industrial applications.

The brand new SDL Atlas Air Permeability Tester offers unmatched ease of use, efficiency, and reliability for air permeability tests. Exclusive features include automatic detection of the test head size and an automatic ranging system that eliminates the need for a pretest to discover and then set the instrument range. The 50 cm test arm allows for simple testing on a large sample without having to cut multiple small specimens. The compact size and included casters permit the instrument to be set up quickly and easily wherever testing needs to be done, from the laboratory to the production floor.

Air permeability for fabrics is defined as the velocity of air flow passing perpendicularly through a test specimen under specified conditions of test area and pressure drop. The SDL Atlas Air Permeability Tester automatically measures the flow of air through a given area of a fabric (set by a selected standard orifice) at a given pressure drop over this test area as specified by an accepted standard. The tester is suitable for most fabrics, including woven, nonwoven, air bag, blanket, napped, knitted, layered, and pile. The fabrics may be untreated, heavily sized, coated, resin-treated, or otherwise treated.

All major global standards are preloaded on the instrument and easily accessible through an informative LCD screen for accurate and repeatable testing. A standard 20 cm2 test plate and head are included with all testers, along with a calibration check plate. Optional test plates and heads (including 5 cm², 25 cm², 38 cm², 50 cm², 100 cm²) are available. Also available as an option is user-friendly PC software for data collection, analysis, and reporting.

The Air Permeability Tester is one of several fabric performance and comfort-related testers available from SDL Atlas, including the Moisture Management Tester (MMT), Hydrostatic Head Tester, and Sweating Guarded Hot Plate.

The SDL Atlas sales staff can help you select the options best suited to the testing you need at a price that will please your budget.

sPeCIFICAtIOns

Test Mode Automatic Test pressure Range 98–2,500 pa Air Flow 1–40,000 mm/s Rise Time 5–50 (sec) Fall Time 3 (sec) Total Measuring Time 10–58 (sec) Start pressure 10 pa Lower Test pressure Limit 10 pa Upper Test pressure Limit 2500 pa Accuracy +/- 3% Selectable Unit Measuring mm/s, cfm, cm3/cm2/s, l/m2/s, l/dm2/min, m3/m2/min, m3/m2/h, dm3/s Test Head/Area 20 cm² (standard), 5 cm², 25 cm², 38 cm², 50 cm², 100 cm² Sample Thickness Up to 8 mm Maximum clamp Separation 8 mm clamping Force 50±5N calibration check plate For 20 cm2 (standard) Display LcD (size: 80 x 28 mm, white background with black character) Displayed Test Results Average dynamic air permeability and exponent of the air permeability curve in the selected test pressure range Data Output RS232 connect to pc (with software – optional) Dimensions 59 x 90 x 100 cm (W x D x H) Net Weight 80 kg

The New Air permeability Tester

3266 Atlas-SDL Update, Summer08-A4.indd 4 7/15/08 6:00:18 PM

UPDATE Summer 2008

5

n DOGieFA

DOGIEFA is the first branded warp knit fabric manufacturer in South Asia. Formed in 2007, it is a joint venture partnership between Dogi International Fabrics of Spain and MAS Holdings of Sri Lanka, a vertically integrated apparel solutions provider and the preferred sourcing partner for world-class brands such as Victoria’s Secret, Nike, and Speedo.

Slated to produce 2.5 million meters in 2008, the new partnership caters to the growing demand for high-quality warp knit fabric for the apparel industry in Sri Lanka and the Indian sub-continent. More importantly it will decrease lead times for apparel manufacturers and provide more fabric supplier options.

DOGIEFA’s testing facility accommodates over 90% of the tests required for warp knitted fabrics, including colorfastness, stretch ability, GSM, and dimensional stability. The company’s lab consists of a 27m2 condition room in a 180 m2 lab working area with over 90% of the equipment supplied from SDL Atlas. DOGIEFA’s quality laboratory technical team is committed to innovation, development, and understanding of new technical properties. They aim to achieve the accreditation certification of working with LACE, M&S, and Limited Brands before March 2008.

n Suzhou United Tex

Suzhou United Tex Enterprise Ltd is a Hong Kong-based manufacturer of high-end silk fabric. The company exports 5 million meters of fabric and 1.2 million units of garment annually, primarily to the U.S. and Korea. United Tex built a new 7,000 m2 facility for its garment section in August 2007, and added a new laboratory this past February. The lab features standard and biological testing equipment like the Xenotest150S+ Lightfastness Tester, AATCC Launder-Ometer, and Tinius Olsen Universal Testing Machine. In addition to supplying the equipment, SDL Atlas designed the laboratory and provided training to ensure a seamless process and the highest quality and efficiency.

At the testing Forefront

between tests to improve operator efficiency.

The Hydrostatic Head Tester’s automatic analysis software simplifies data collection and calculations while providing an easy-to-use reporting function on the user’s PC. An audible and visible alarm alerts the operator when a test is nearing completion so less time needs to be spent at the instrument during individual tests.

The SDL Atlas instrument is designed with a feature that saves the operator from watching as much as 80% of the test. By running a quick test, the software will calculate the estimated point of water penetration and alert the operator by means of an audible and visual alarm that they should begin to watch the test. This frees the technician to perform other tasks for the majority of the test. The new Hydrostatic Head Tester offers increased capacities in both hydrostatic pressure and fabric thickness, greater efficiency through end-of-test alarms and auto head refills. Accurate information from preloaded test standards to accurate, downloadable results make this instrument the best choice for water-proof or water-resistant testing.

SDL Atlas testing instruments—Meeting today’s standards, and prepared for tomorrow’s demands.

Hydrostatic Head Tester, continued from page 1 > > >

sPeCIFICAtIOns Test Mode Dynamic, Static penetration pressure Range 0–3,000 mbar Readability 0.1 mbar pressure Gradient Digital control (1–500 mbar/min) pressure Sensor High precision pressure Transducer

DYNAMic TeST MeTHOD pressure Accuracy ±0.5% of displayed value ±1mbar Selectable pressure Unit mbar/cm w.c. Alarm pressure 1–3,000 mbar

STATic TeST MeTHOD penetration Time 99 hours 59 minutes Readability 1 minute Alarm Time 0–5,999 min Test Area 100 cm² (standard) 19.63 cm², 28 cm² (optional) Sample Thickness Max 30 mm Sample clamping Secure Screw clamp Water Reservoir 1.5 liters, auto-refill Data Output RS232 connect to pc electric 110V-240V 50/60 Hz Dimensions 48 x 54 x 60 cm (W x D x H) Net Weight 70 kg

3266 Atlas-SDL Update, Summer08-A4.indd 5 7/15/08 6:00:19 PM

SDL ATLAS UPDATE

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First Official Chinese Version of AAtCC technical Manual now Available

The China Textile Information Center (CTIC), authorized by AATCC (The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists), has published the first official Chinese version of the AATCC Technical Manual. This professionally translated manual has been published and is now available in the market from June 2008.

Published annually, the AATCC Technical Manual contains all AATCC test methods as well as AATCC research, administrative committee chairs, monographs, and evaluation procedures. These widely used testing standards are well known globally, and have great impact on China’s textile and apparel manufacturers who export to the Americas. Many third-party international testing laboratories, such as Intertek, SGS, BV, STR, TUV, and MTL, have adopted AATCC standards to test textile products designed and manufactured for export.

The 2008 AATCC Technical Manual includes 116 current and effective testing methods plus 10 evaluation procedures and 8 monographs, covering the biological performance of textiles, color fastness, stain performance, evaluation processes, analyses and identification, and other physical properties. Thirty-two standards have been updated and two new

standards added since the 2007 version was published.

In the past, having the English version only of AATCC Technical Manual created certain constraints to China’s domestic textile and garment industry’s ability to accurately understand the testing standards. AATCC Executive Vice President Jack Daniels said, “The world has realized that China’s textile industry is important to the global economy. China Textile Information

Center plays an important role on information distribution and testing standard training. To facilitate the usage of international testing standards by China textile and clothing manufacturing enterprises, AATCC is willing to authorize the China Textile Information Center to translate and publish the official Chinese version of the AATCC Technical Manual.”

AATCC Technical Manual is the professional, accurate, reliable and practical handbook for testing workers. It is planned that CTIC will continue to translate and publish the official Chinese language updates as the AATCC issues annual new editions of

the English version of the manual.

**AATCC Technical Manual Chinese version is available through SDL Atlas. Please contact our local offices for details.

sDL Atlas presents…

Look for SDL Atlas at the following trade shows:

> 1st International Symposium of Textile Bioengineering and Informatics Hong Kong 14–15 August 2008

> SMART 2008 (Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation Therapy) Convention Hong Kong 16 August 2008

> IGATEX 2008 Lahore, Pakistan 22–25 October 2008

> India-ITME Bangalore, India 15–22 November 2008

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UPDATE Summer 2008

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n Abrasion and pilling Testing

GB/T 21196-2007 Textile-Determination of the abrasion resistance of fabrics by the Martindale Method has been approved and published. It is a new national textile standard on abrasion resistance of fabrics by the Martindale method, adopted and amended based on ISO 12947-1998. Fabric abrasion resistance in this standard is determined in three ways: assessment of specimen breakdown, mass loss, and appearance changes. GB/T 21196-2007 has been expanded from the existing GB/T 13775-92 to apply not only to woven fabrics, but also to knitted fabrics, non-woven fabrics, coated fabrics and more.

The Martindale method is the most commonly used method for abrasion resistance of fabrics, and there are ISO, ASTM, and JIS standards on it. The development of GB/T 21196 complies with international testing standards for abrasion resistance of fabrics.

n Flammability of clothing Textiles

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) has pursued revisions to the U.S. test (16 CFR 1610) for flammability of clothing textiles since 1996. Its goal was for the standard to reflect changes in consumer garment care practices and make it easier to understand. The CPSC recommendations were finally accepted in February and published in the March 25, 2008 Federal Register as a Final Rule. The rule takes effect September 21, 2008.

The new 16 CFR1610-2008 standard accepts testing cabinets that use electronic or electro mechanical timers and metric dimensions. Among the significant changes in the new standard: 1) ignition needle mounted 15 degrees from the vertical; 2) 11 chamber vent holes (rather than 12); 3) typical gas shield and indicating finger required to protect the test flame; and 4) test samples shall be dry cleaned in a commercial dry cleaning machine.

All SDL Atlas Automatic 45 degree Flammability Testers starting with serial number 121E0006 in our July 2008 production will be in full compliance with the new standard.

n Moisture Management publication

A joint AATCC and ASTM committee D13 task group has found that Moisture Management (MM) claims for various moisture management attributes are confusing to consumers and retailers alike, particularly to those who have no history with MM products and their expected performance. As a result, the task group developed and published a Moisture Management Technical Supplement (MMTS). It is now available and can be ordered either as a softbound booklet or as a download from www.AATCC.org/products.

This new booklet provides a compilation of information including descriptions of moisture management terminology, attributes, concepts, and considerations. This valuable reference also describes the influence of fabric construction and fiber components on moisture management attributes, a variety of applicable standard test methods, some measurement techniques in use that have not gone through the standards development process, and references to scientific papers for readers to pursue their own moisture management research.

The publication recommends the SDL Atlas Moisture Management Tester (MMT) for evaluating fabrics claiming to transport moisture through the fabric from back to face. Moisture management is a complex phenomenon involving many fabric characteristics. The SDL Atlas MMT provides dynamic measurements not available through any other technique.

n physical comfort

GB testing standard GB/T 11048 – Testing of Textiles Physical Comfort under the conditions of heat and wet resistance is being drafted and is targeted for publication in the third quarter of 2008. It will replace GB/T-1989, with technical content based on ISO 11092.

STAndArdS UPdATES

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SDL ATLAS UPDATE

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U S A

SDL Atlas and

Textile innovators

1813 Associates Lane

charlotte, Nc 28217-2956

T: +1 704 329 0911

F: +1 704 329 0914

e: info@sdlatlas.com

U K

pO box 162,

crown Royal, Shawcross St.

Stockport SK1 3JW

england

T: +44 (0) 161 480 8485

F: +44 (0) 161 480 8580

e: test@sdlatlas.com

c H i N A

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central District (West)

Hi-Tech park, Nanshan,

Shenzhen, 518057, pRc

T: +86 (755) 2671 1168

F: +86 (755) 2671 1337

e: info@sdlatlas.com.cn

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Kowloon, Hong Kong

T: +852 2173 8611

F: +852 2370 2949

e: info@sdlatlas.com.cn

www.sdlatlas.com

sDL Atlas Makes showing in Vietnam

SdL Atlas continued its worldwide exhibition presence at the popular annual Vietnam Saigon Textile & Garment Industry Expo. The busy show, held in April in Ho Chi Minh City, drew companies from throughout Vietnam.

SDL Atlas exhibited a number of working products, including the Martindale, Tinius Olsen Tensile Tester, Crockmeter, and ColorChex Light Booth, as well as a host of consumable products.

Several companies brought their own samples to be tested on the MMT Moisture Management Tester— a successful way to demonstrate SDL Atlas’ capabilities and educational for visitors to the booth.

…and thailandSdL Atlas exhibited at the GFT Exhibition in Bangkok, Thailand, July 3–6.

The four-day show was a success for SDL Atlas, as many visitors were interested in our innovative new products like the MMT Moisture Management Tester.

Union TSL (agent of SDL Atlas) showed several products from the SDL Atlas range, including the Tinius Olsen Universal Testing Machine, the Martindale, and the Pilling Tester, all of which drew a lot of attention.

Area Sales Manager Chris Lawler was pleased that the show attracted so many people from the Technical Textile/Performance Fabric field in Thailand and the surrounding region. With the tremendous growth in this area, SDL Atlas is committed to helping meet companies’ emerging needs with expertise and a new range of testing products.

3266 Atlas-SDL Update, Summer08-A4.indd 8 7/15/08 6:00:20 PM