Uomo Moderno Winter 2016

winter 2016

Display Until March 1

AndreA Bocelli

2 Uomo Moderno Winter 2016

3Uomo Moderno Winter 2016


The 1st and only Men’s Fashion & Lifestyle Magazine from Italy.

Awarded 2014 Hottest Magazine Launch!

coverandrea Bocelli

eDitor in chieffrancesco Di Maio

pr & coMMUnicationsfederica fatale

hair & GrooMinGfrancesco cilidonio—cily hairstylist

Graphic DesiGncecilia Giménez de paz - [email protected]

photo creDitsautomobili lamborghini (pp. 6-7)Diego cervo, shutterstock.com (pp. 82-83)Mirko Ugo/ente parco (pp. 74-81)inna race, private paparazzi productions (pp. 86-87, 88-89, 90-91, 92-93)Mikhail veter (pp. 84-85, 94-95, 96-97, 98-99)

contact [email protected]: uomo-moderno.com

Uomo Moderno is a quarterly publication of Men’s fashion by francesco llc.

issn 2329-9258© 2015, all rights reserved

winter 2016


New Lamborghini Huracán Lp 610-4 Spyder Front Open


what’s insiDe

Contents

cover story

fashion

22Aeronautica MilitareA Symbol of National Pride

28TatrasJapanese Design— Italian Craftsmanship— Polish Down

34GrinkoMade in Italy with a Twist

38PenceBy Dora Zecchin

44Gate64When All Hope Seems Lost

10Andrea Bocelli

Husband. Father. Philanthropist.


18Massimiliano RosolinoFor Nazionale Italiana

56Frozen PartyBy Cily Hairstylist

48RumjungleTwo Years Later

52Roberto CollinaA Continental Divide

62Grappa NoninoDistil lers in Friuli Since 1897

66Grappa PoliDistil lers in Veneto Since 1898

70Grappa Marolo The Grape Doesn’t Fall Far from the Vine

81Zuppa di PesceFish Stew à La Maddalena

74Achipelago La Maddalena62 Islands and Islets of Paradise

82Red in ItalyThe Book about Italy No Traveler Will Ever Write

86The New Generation Fashion TourUomo Moderno’s Fashion Show from Italy

88New York Fashion WeekA Night of Cabaret

92The Philadelphia CollectionUnder the Disco Lights

96MusicCity of Pastele

98The Fashion VignetteCaleb Alexander

eventsfashion GrooMinG

sports

BooKs

cUisine

travel


We often read and hear about country-of-origin labels

like Made in the USA or Made in China, but what do they

really mean? I guess it all depends on who you talk to.

Many governments impose some sort of standard, such as

percentages of local components and/or production costs.

To me the whole subject is very muddled, subjective,

and all quite suspicious, due to the complexities in

manufacturing processes, the global supply chain, and

a lack of international standardization. Then, there are

the lax rules and vague standards, not to mention the

long lists of exemptions! Tracking and quantifying have

become nearly impossible!

Made in Italy is no different. Surely for some items like

foodstuffs and beverages, it’s slightly easier to have

a final product that is 100% Made in Italy: cows born

and raised on the peninsula, fed Italian grown fodder,

producing milk for Italian cheeses—all Made in Italy.

But what about the numerous clothing manufacturers

that lay claim to 100% Made in Italy? How much more

ludicrous to lay claim to a more restrictive area of

exclusive origin like 100% Made in Naples?! Maybe I’ve

missed something, but I haven’t seen many cotton farms

on the peninsula, and I surely haven’t seen any alpacas

running around the hinterland of most cities!

So if cotton and wool fabrics do not originate from Italy,

shouldn’t we redefine the finished product as Sewn in

Italy, since its components are not really Made in Italy?

Then, where do we draw the line? As globalization

advances, we will need a longer list of phrases like Grown

in X, Fed with products from X, Weaved in X, Designed in X,

Manufactured in X, Assembled in X, Finished in X, Packaged

in X, and so on.

If we were truly honest with ourselves, we would openly

admit that we don’t care where our clothing is made, as

long as we buy better, cheaper, faster, and more of it as

often as our hearts desire. Of course we all want jobs to

return to our own countries, but at whose expense?

In this issue, I raise numerous questions about Made in

disclosures as I feature a Russian designer living in Italy,

Japanese coats whose down is Polish but designed in Italy,

and an Italian Olympic swimmer whose mother is Australian.

Now what if more than 50% of his DNA were Australian?

Undoubtedly Made in Italy is a symbol of tradition,

craftsmanship, and prestige. Therefore, it should be well

defined and carefully protected. So will the real Made in

Italy please stand up?

Francesco

BenvenUti!welcoMe to the 2016 winter eDition of UoMo Moderno!



anDrea BocellihUsBanD. father. philanthropist.

FeatUre Storyandrea bocelli


When did you first sense a passion for classical music?It has always accompanied me; it’s an innate passion,

probably written in my chromosomes. they say that, already

in the cradle as soon as I heard a piece of classical music, I

stopped crying.

Do you remember your first live concert?the small church of Lajatico, with its organ, is the place where I

had the thrill of listening to live music for the first time.

How about the first record you bought?as for records, up to the age of eighteen my purchases were

always tied to the classical repertoire (and preferably lyrical).

the first ones that I began to consume on the turntable at

home were those dedicated to the voices of Beniamino Gigli,

Mario Del Monaco, enrico Caruso…. one day my nanny

oriana gave me a record that featured the famous One Day

in Azure Space in Andrea Chénier by Umberto Giordano and

interpreted by Franco Corelli. I was literally bewitched by

that voice: I was a child, but that listening played no little

influence on my future. as an adult, I had the great honor

of becoming a student of Corelli: an artist that I have always

revered and remains my ideal tenor.

When did you realize this would become your career?It wasn’t I who decided to make it a profession: one becomes

a singer if people ask you to sing for them. as a teenager,

by receiving timely invitations to sing (first among relatives,

then among friends, then among the public in my first small

concerts), I started to think that my greatest passion could

also become my profession.

Which performance excited you the most?Hard to say…. When I sing, I’m always excited. Whether in

front of a hundred thousand people or in the dining room

of the house for a few friends, it makes little difference to

me: each time, I hope to enter the heart of my listeners and

communicate positive emotions. When this happens, I have

achieved my goal and I’m happy.

anDrea Bocelli


Which song is the most requested of you?Probably for pop music it is Time to Say Goodbye:

it is undeniable that this song has become a classic

in its own way, at all latitudes. I for one do not get

tired of singing it. as for the operatic repertoire, it

is undoubtedly Nessun Dorma from Turandot—the

page that most fuels the public everywhere and

each time makes me immensely proud to be Italian,

a compatriot of an absolute genius: precisely,

Giacomo Puccini.

How do you deal with your emotions before performing?I don’t have any lucky charms, nor do I pursue

any particular ploy to maintain self-control. I keep

trepidation at bay, especially when I know that I have

done my duty. anxiety, the tension that invariably

accompanies me when I go on stage, is tempered by

the awareness of having done everything possible

with seriousness and consciousness to confront the

repertoire that I propose. But a little tension is always

there because, as I said, I am emotional by nature.

What do you do to relax between performances?I love to go back to the countryside where I was born

or just stay in my house by the sea where I live with

my wife Veronica. When I can, I like to horseback

through the woods, countryside, and beaches of my

region. Moreover, I love boating and swimming but

also reading a good book.

Is it hard to find time for your family?I believe that, with a little organization, you can always

find the time to dedicate yourself to your loved ones:

what’s important is not the amount of time dedicated

to them but the quality.

Who played a major role in creating the Andrea Bocelli of today?First of all, my parents. then my teachers: I have

already mentioned Franco Corelli, but I also remember

with great affection my first teacher, Luciano Bettarini.

thanks to Maestro Bettarini, already a teacher of

figures in the highest order of international opera, I

first learned the rigor of the song. a discipline that, as

a boy, I had never imagined was so severe, similar to

that which an athlete has to follow to get results. Finally,

I have the pleasure of mentioning amos Martellacci,

a man who was not a musician; even if it is to him

that I owe much of the little that I do know. amos was

an extraordinary man who mastered six languages

and had become a bank director, even though he had

only attended elementary school! once retired, for

many years he “condemned himself” to follow me in

university studies, right up to the beginning of my

artistic career. I named my first son amos in his honor.

Was there ever a time you thought about quitting?as it happens to everyone during any profession, there

were brighter moments and less bright ones. at the

beginning of the millennium, because of a complex

family situation, I had partially lost my enthusiasm.

the union with Veronica, now my wife, was crucial to

finding it again: had I not met her along my way, I

might have even stopped singing.

What are the main requisites to succeed in music?Intelligence, will, spirit of sacrifice, determination, and

a pinch of narcissism. you must be humble but also

determined and able to rely on your own potential.

you must be strict with yourself, yet always going

forward with optimism, never ceasing to believe in

your passion.



What does music mean to you?I consider it my personal medicine; it’s a way to make life lighter;

it’s a balm and nourishment to the spirit. It is a gift, so I cannot

easily give it up. as a boy, it was a terrific pastime and it gave me

moments of great happiness. as an adult it has become my job.

I borrow a reflection from the German philosopher Leibniz, who

described music as an “occult arithmetic exercise of the soul that

does not know it is counting.”

Would you say that music is a universal language?I am convinced of it and, having trod the stages all over the world, I’ve

proved it constantly throughout a career of two decades long. Music can

change the moral character of the soul: the Greek philosopher aristotle

said it, arguing that young people should be educated and well versed

in this art. Music is a herald of strong emotions; it moves on paths

that penetrate the most intimate spheres of our psyche, without being

affected by prejudices or biases. Good music can educate us in beauty

and brotherhood; it can open our hearts and minds.

What types of music do you enjoy?When traveling by car, I often find myself listening to anything, even

the newest pop music. While at home, I tend to listen to classical

music and opera. I have remained fond of the interpretations of

those who were my heroes already from when I was a child. I am

referring to the voices of Franco Corelli, Beniamino Gigli, Mario

Del Monaco, enrico Caruso, Giuseppe Di Stefano, aureliano

Pertile, Ferruccio tagliavini, Mario Lanza....

What do you remember most of Pavarotti?“you complain about too many interviews. But you will complain

more the day when they will no longer interview you,” so he once

said to me. this was the great Luciano Pavarotti. a solar man, a

brilliant conversationalist, a good table guest, a person who willingly

stayed in your company. an artist who loved his work and whom I

never heard, not even once, complain or pity himself for the overload

of commitments or any reason related to his activity.


Tell us about your encounter with Pope John Paul II….I met him several times and I had the ultimate pleasure of

being able to sing in front of him. I treasure the memory

of those moments. I can remember, among other things,

a gesture of affection that filled my heart when he put his

hand on my shoulder like a father. His canonization was a

great joy: illuminated by a superior grace, Pope Wojtyla

was able to speak to people with ease, bringing new

generations to Catholicism. a pope who changed history, a

catalyst and protagonist of epochal changes, as well as on

the geopolitical level.

What does “Italy” mean to you?I think that I was lucky to be born and grow up in Italy,

the country where opera was born; and I’m happy to help

raise awareness of the wonderful repertoire that creative

geniuses like Giuseppe Verdi, Giacomo Puccini, Umberto

Giordano, and many others have produced in time. Italy

is a land whose natural beauty and density of artistic

masterpieces stored within its borders never cease to

move me and instill me with pride. the creative force of

our country, when positive and cheerful, makes the world

dream: we have an extraordinary story behind us, excellence

in every field, an impressive number of treasures that can

be valued, splendid traditions, and a widespread and deep-

rooted culinary culture.

What do you miss when you leave Italy?What I love most—and what I miss the most when I’m

abroad—is perhaps the moment in which our big extended

family gets together to have lunch and dine. together with

relatives and often many dear friends, we live meals as an

opportunity to confront one another, strengthen trust and

complicity (especially with my children), open up and talk,

and reflect on everything.




Do you have a favorite food?Spending most of the year around the world, every flavor attributable

to Italy (from the cheeses to pizza, from coffee to the wines)

becomes a taste of home. I like almost all good cooking, I adore

genuine tastes, our Pecorino cheese, tuscan bread, sausages when

handmade, garden vegetables, and—as a true Italian— pasta: with

pesto, sauce, but also just with oil (if it is oil from our land). as for

desserts, my favorite is cheesecake.

Where did the idea of the Andrea Bocelli Foundation originate?I believe that life is like a great banquet in which everyone is fine if

there is the bare minimum for all. If someone is not comfortable, for

whatever reason, the party fails. It is for this reason that I consider

solidarity not only a moral duty but an act of intelligence. the andrea

Bocelli Foundation, which I founded in 2011, is a tangible demonstration

of a concept dear to me: namely, the most disruptive testimony is

consistency by persons of good will; it is the behavior that lines up

with its principles. How often I repeat: what matters is to translate our

hopes into concrete actions, which outperform the mere declarations

of one’s intents.

What are your future recording plans?In late July, the double CD dedicated to Puccini’s Turandot under the baton

of Zubin Mehta, with whom I recently also recorded Aida by Giuseppe

Verdi. Within a year, a new pop album will be released: a musical project in

which I strongly believe and whose results are fully satisfying.

Do you still dream of more?I hope to continue to sing, as long as the good Lord gives me the

opportunity. I hope that I can continue, to give to whoever will listen, a

remnant of serenity and optimism.

Any words of wisdom to future “Bocelli’s”?everyone has his or her own history and peculiarities. there is no sure

recipe for becoming a successful artist: a great career cannot be built

around a table. to excite people, you have to have something to say;

therefore, you have to be curious to be able to sing well and have many

passions. Be passionate about living and fall in love with life and love

(which is its engine).

Interview by Federica Fatale.




Hometown: Naples, Italy

Age: 37

Height: 6’4” (1.92m)

60 International MedalsGold: 2000 Summer olympic Games,

2000 european Championships & 2001

World Championships.

MassiMiliano rosolinofor nazionale italiana

SPortSnazionale italiana


When did you first fall in love with swimming? My passion for swimming was born when I

was still very small. I was 10 years old. I knew

immediately that this sport would be part of my

life forever.

What has the sport taught you?Surely discipline, individuality, and sharing.

Which was your greatest victory? the olympic gold in Sydney.

How about the most difficult moment? When you are no longer on olympus.

As the testimonial of Nazionale Italiana, what are your favorite items? Nowadays the famous t-shirt is worn 12 months a

year, but in my case I’m never without a polo shirt

and fins.

Tell us about your meeting with Natalia Titova on “Dancing with the Stars?”It wasn’t love at first sight, but great affinity right

from the start.

You have been together now for 10 years. What’s the secret?Knowing how to support and sustain one

another.

As a good Neapolitan, what is your favorite dish?I love spaghetti with clams and cherry tomatoes.

How much does swimming influence your girls?Very much. We try to convey to the children the

values of discipline and fairness that sport has

taught us.

Do they prefer swimming or dancing?It’s a struggle…the dominating daddy always

wins! I’m joking of course. What’s important is to

keep in shape.

Is there an ideal age to begin sports? towards 4 to 5 years old it is obligatory, even if

nowadays you can start before tiptoeing.

What role should the parents play?Parents should consider that sports teach us

to share, be competitive, but at the same time

respect the opponent.

So what’s next, swimming, TV, fashion?Can I put them together and do a triathlon?!

What advice do you have for young people?try your best no matter what, because the rest of

life is even harder!

Interview by Federica Fatale.


Nazionale ItalianaNazionale Italiana was launched in 2007

as an “easy price” brand; that is, one that

can satisfy the consumer’s demands for

quality, price, and style. Its continual source

of inspiration is the world of sports, which

in 2013 gave birth to the new mood “life in

movement.”

SPortSnazionale italiana


Prato—a historical hub of the Italian textile industry

situated 16 miles (25 km) from Florence—has nearly

50,000 Chinese residents and 5,000 workshops that

produce $2 billion of clothing per year. Low pay, long

hours, poor conditions, and smuggled fabrics from

China all characterize Chinese Made in Italy, which has

triumphed over Italian production in terms of speed and

cost! Mostly illegal immigrants, these Chinese workers

started arriving in the mid-1990s from Wenzhou to work

in Italian factories, where they have learned and mastered

the art of Italian production.

Did You Know?


aeronaUtica Militarea national syMBol of priDe

FaSHIoNaeronautica militare


“after World War II in thiene, province

of Vicenza, Cristiano Sperotto created one of the first tailor

workshops, which specialized in the production of leather

clothing for high class men and women in the Sixties and

gained a reputation in the domestic and international markets.

“the proximity of the company with the small but glorious

airport Ferrarin of thiene has meant that, over the years, it

would create a certain feeling among the pilots of National

acrobatic team at the airport with the owners—first Cristiano

Sperotto, then his sons Paolo and armando Pio.

“For more than 30 years, the company has produced leather

jackets—including the original ones for pilots—and since 2004

it has also added clothing inspired by the glorious world of

pilots and flight, receiving permissions from the air Force to

use their logos and original arms.

“the professionalism demonstrated throughout those years by

the thiene company was a guarantee of success, and so it was:

the brand aeronautica Militare (literally, ‘air Force’) has taken

off in the fashion world, becoming one of the most popular

brands of sportswear and earning its own slice of the market

both in Italy and abroad.


“a jacket, sweatshirt, or accessory does not have anything

special in itself; it’s mostly a sense of belonging: the

spirit and values of the air Force make them special.

aeronautica Militare is a young fashion brand capable of best

reinterpreting the idea of ‘nation’ and its values: integrity,

respect, discipline, honor, courage, passion for flying, etc.

the garments of aeronautica Militare are the passport to

enter this world.

“thanks to its background, Cristiano di thiene Inc. has the

complete knowledge for the development of each item’s

style and layout. the collections have a strong appeal to the

world of military aviation, while the logos and insignias that

are used have been chosen and selected only after careful

verification of their historical content, meaning, and value.

“our collections do not just conquor true flight enthusiasts but

also those who are looking for a distinctive style and strong

identity, without sacrificing the quality of the products worn.

Cristiano di thiene Inc. wants to tell a true and authentic story

through its label aeronautica Militare—one that transmits

energy and enthusiasm, a story of craftsmanship, which is a

successful mix of ingenuity and stylistic quality of the product,

ideal for those who love sporty and trendy clothing.

“each season, the creative staff reinvents the style of the

collections for men, women, and children and researches

products for a casual look but always with a strong identity.

each collection is built around two main themes: the world

of sports and the world of pilots and aviation.

“this winter collection has a very decisive style, rich in

character and strong emotional impact. It’s a collection that

tells the history of the air Force.”

Interview with Paolo Sperotto, Ceo of Cristiano di

thiene, Inc.



While Italian owned companies are decreasing in

Italy, foreigner owned companies are increasing

rapidly, totaling about 733,500—74,500 of which

are run by Moroccans, 70,000 by romanians,

and 69,000 by Chinese, who are growing at

phenomenal rates, mostly in the clothing industry.

the majority of these foreigner owned companies

are located in Northern Italy.

Did You Know?





tatras

Japanese DesiGn

—italian craftsManship —polish Down

FaSHIoNtatras


Named after a mountain chain on the border of Poland and Slovakia, tatras was founded in 2000 by the Japanese designer Masanaka Sakao.


What motivated you to choose the name?the name was chosen because tatras is a brand of high-

end down jackets, a typical garment for the mountains.

Why down and feathers from Poland?the lining of every garment is made by selecting the best

goose down and goose feathers on the market, Polish

ones. the Polish goose makes the garment functional

for the winter and cold climates.

Why Italy?to cross the boundaries of the nation-bearer. tatras

arrived in Milan with an eminent showroom executive

to manage the world’s market, and an Italian company

was founded to optimize style, research, production,

and distribution.

What are the synergies between the three countries?tatras is an international brand that combines the clean

lines of Japanese design and style, the excellence of Italian

workmanship and fabrics, and the technical production

of the Polish goose. these countries appreciate high

quality: this is what tatras wants to offer its customers.

FaSHIoNtatras


What is Sakao’s current role?He’s the Creative Director of the brand.

How do your four lines relate?the absolute values are the high quality of the product, which

are the result of constant research and the careful selection

of materials. a tatras collection has different inspirations

within itself, one more basic and one more elegant. the use

of particular fabrics and details falls in these inspirations.

Is there one line that is more elegant?the most sophisticated soul of the brand becomes Atelier,

where classic inspirations and the informal elegance of

contemporary thinking come together. Atelier is characterized

by an original fabric, as a result of more than a year of tests

and trials made by the designer Masanaka Sakao.

Can you elaborate on his research?Working in collaboration with the best fabric manufacturers,

Sakao San studied the reactions of the fabric at different

temperatures and different ironings in order to achieve

the perfect balance between performance and aesthetic. a

composition of wool mixed with polyester makes the fabric

warm, light, and comfortable. every square meter has half

the weight of any other fabric of the same category.


the Made in Germany disclosure is defined as

“all essential manufacturing steps,” while the

Made in the USA disclosure reads “all or virtually

all.” therefore, the Italian regulation of “totally”

appears much more restrictive in determining

what qualifies for the Made in Italy label.

Did You Know?

FaSHIoNtatras


What is the Historic Rally Dolomiti and Tatras’ relationship?the Historic rally Dolomiti is one of the most important

historic car competitions. tatras was the official sponsor of

its third edition in 2014.

Why did you entitle the current collection “New York City My Base Camp?”People wearing tatras have the spirit of an adventure traveler.

So it goes that the setting chosen by tatras is the roof of a

skyscraper in New york City, where it is possible to set up

camp and dominate the capital of the world: a base camp, a

“camping chic” bivouac in the heart of midtown Manhattan

on the rooftop of the highest building, on 35th Street and

with a view of the empire State Building.

Who are the men and women that wear Tatras?tatras’ lovers are curious, dynamic, and cosmopolitan. the

tatras man loves to feel contemporary and trendy, wrapping

himself up in ample overcoats with rich details like taped

zippers, applied pockets, and invisible closures. the tatras

woman loves to show off maxi fur collars and unusual

asymmetrical closures, which lend to femininity and elegance.


GrinKoMaDe in italy with a twist

FaSHIoNgrinko


Designed and produced entirely in

Italy, Sergei Grinko established his

epynomous label in Milan, in 2009.


What first drew you to fashion?I was born in Far east russia, in front of Japan, and I always

have been attracted to that tailoring culture experience.

Where were you at the end of the Soviet era?Well, I was almost 18 years old when the Soviet Union

collapsed and, exactly in those years, I moved to London to

study Fashion and Glass arts at Central Saint Martin’s and at

adult Westminster College.

What type of fashion scene did you encounter in London?London in the late ‘90s was of course still deeply influenced

by a punk trend, dominated by Vivienne Westwood; but it

was also the beginning of new cultural fashion icons, and the

minimalistic style was the new trend.

Your designs appear to be influenced by East Russia, Japan, London, Dubai, Milan….yes it is all true: I was born in the Far east of russia, which

definitively means asia/Japan, grew up in London, worked as

couturist in Dubai for all the local royal Families—including

HHM ranja, the Queen of Jordan—and then in 2009 I

founded the high-end rtW brand GrINKo here in Italy with

my Italian partner Filippo Cocchetti. of course, what I have

done is what I am now.

Why did you choose Italy after London and Dubai?Well, as I said before, I moved to Italy first because of

my relationship with my partner Filippo Cocchetti; then,

secondarily, I love living and working here because it is not

just a common phrase “Italy is the best country of the world,”

but it is indeed the best for fashion, high level production and

tailoring, and definitively the best lifestyle you can enjoy.

Is there any place that you consider “home?”Now after almost 7 years, I feel Italy is my home. that’s why

in 2011, I decided to sell my apartment in east end London

and buy one here in Milan.

FaSHIoNgrinko


Since 1999, the Made in Italy label has begun

to be protected by associations like the Institute

for the Protection of the Italian Manufacturers

and is regulated by the Italian law. Nevertheless,

much controversy surrounds the label, from its

definition to enforcement.

Did You Know?


penceBy Dora zecchin

FaSHIoNpence


Where are you from originally?Brugine, a village in the province of Padua.

What type of education did you receive? I started studying languages when I was only 9 years old

and I still do. I graduated from high school in the United

States; then in Italy, I continued my education in Padua,

where I majored in Communication.

Besides fashion, do you have other interests?I am fortunate to do work that was a hobby for years. even

as a little girl, I loved to embroider and draw on clothes.

During my university years, I enjoyed customizing jeans

that I bought at flea markets and secondhand stores. other

hobbies are traveling, cooking, and learning new languages—

the next one that I would like to learn is russian. I love to

experiment with cuisines that are different from Italy’s and

invent new combinations of flavors. Cooking also gives me

the opportunity to play with the presentation of dishes and

colors! Finally I love swimming! I adore the water and all the

cities that are on the sea or near rivers and lakes.


FaSHIoNpence


Do you have a specific design aesthetic?Mixing colors, shapes, and fabrics is the basis of my work.

I do not design clothes but I allow the fabrics to carry out

my signature and taste, the latter two of which guide me in

the realization of the fit. In this winter collection, mixing and

matching was even more important than usual; I wanted to

experiment with the combination of different structures and

textures in a single fabric.

What is the age range of the Pence man?He’s a man that goes from 28-30 on up.

How would you define his interests?Surely fashion but also the outdoors and probably travel. the

open air because the collections always present comfortable

clothes, owing to their shapes and purely casual fabrics.

there are always references and details that point to different

cultures in my collections.

How about his lifestyle?I guess he’s the professional who goes out in the morning

to the office or an appointment with a client, but he doesn’t

know when he will return home or what he will do beforehand.

So he chooses a casual chic look that is suitable for work and

also an aperitif or dinner.


What is the age of the woman who chooses Pence?25 on up.

How about her interests?Fashion and travel like the man; she’s also a lover of

handmade and unique artisanal pieces.

What about her lifestyle?She’s a woman with a busy life, so she chooses

comfortable clothes but with the need always to be

fashionable. a woman tending to be intellectual, a lover

of classic looks, which I propose from a reexamined

viewpoint and in contemporary combinations. She’s the

perfect companion of the Pence man.

Can you give us a sneak peek to next season?For the upcoming 2016 spring/summer season, the tuareg

are my inspiration and, hence, the presence of blue and all

variations of beige sand that changes, depending on the sun

and time of day. the embroidery on the sides of the denim

recalls the desert dunes.

FaSHIoNpence


If Italy had already ceased to produce cotton in

1991, then 100% of all cotton must be imported.

How is it, therefore, possible to label a cotton shirt

as 100% Made in Italy, when 100% of the raw

materials are foreign?

Did You Know?


Gate64when all hope seeMs lost

FaSHIoNgate64


Where did the name Gate64 originate?

Some would call it a trip, others—an experience. at that time,

for me, it was simply an escape. My life was taking a bitter

turn, the joy of believing in a project and the determination

to carry it out were fading. But before boarding a plane that

would take me back home, I felt an emotion: a lost feeling,

an inner strength, like a desire for recovery, for revenge—to

start over, start again with a new project, start living again.

I looked up. Gate64 was my new life! How many times has it

happened to you when you say to yourself: ‘Drop everything

and go?’ our mission is to “dress” that time.

Is the label strictly menswear?

Currently Gate64 only dresses men, because it has always

been our strong point; but this does not mean that, in the

near future, our brand cannot embrace the world’s women,

or even children.

How does Gate64 differ from Rumjungle?

Unlike rumjungle—which offers a more fashionable,

bold, and niche product—Gate64 is of a more casual and

straightforward taste that can be worn by a wider audience.

the collections are built in order to create a total look of

colors, textured fabrics, and trendy washes. the bestsellers

are t-shirts, polo shirts, and sweaters—all of a unique and

aggressive character.

two years ago Uomo Moderno interviewed the three

siblings who had launched rumjungle—a casual line

of hip streetwear whose brand name was inspired by a

nightclub in Las Vegas where they had been vacationing.

Since then, the family has rolled out yet another brand.


What would you say is the brand’s mission?

our mission is constancy, the ongoing research of

Italian and foreign fabrics and techniques in packaging,

and above all the everyday love that the Gate64 team

puts into every garment, every graphic, every detail.

How would you define the guy that wears Gate64?

the brand dresses young guys who are attentive to detail

and seek an avant-garde fit, as well as adults who prefer

casual sportswear, quality, and selected materials.

What is the inspiration of this season’s collection?

Definitely high quality streetwear, wherein the

inspiration of dark approaches a more imaginative

creative proposal. this collection is in fact a triumph

of vitality and vivacity: each garment is able to give a

unique innovative and fashionable touch to any outfit,

ensuring comfort and dynamism. the colors are intense

and powerful, ranging from dark red wine to inevitable

black, from dirty white to brown. It’s a collection with

a strong personality, able to testify immediately to the

decisive character of those who wear it.

Interview with Claudio Giansante,

Creative Director Gate64.

FaSHIoNgate64



rUMJUnGletwo years later

FaSHIoNrumjungle


What has changed since our first interview two years ago?

Very much. these have been two absolutely positive years

in which the company has achieved important goals: first we

have expanded our customer base in Italy and abroad, and we

have opened a store in [rome’s] Valmontone Fashion District

and Madrid. We are also constructing another building in

rome for the coming year. Furthermore, our family has just

expanded with the entry of a new commercial director, enrico

Croce, who has 30 years of experience that is essential for a

young group like ours, having launched brands like antony

Morato, Gaudi, and Liu Jo.

What hasn’t changed?

our team spirit and passion. We are increasingly resourceful

and motivated. We never stop!

Have you had any challenges?

Many. among the most important, internally, the launch of

a new corporate brand, all women’s and Made in Italy: NINa

VoN t, about which you will hear soon.

What role is Rumjungle currently playing in Italy?

Compared to many temporary phenomena like the brands that

are born, explode in a season, and then fall by the wayside,

rumjungle continues to be recognized and appreciated as a

point of reference for style and also for its offer of products

in terms of price for quality. our collections wed fashion and

quality to Italian style that is always affordable. this is why

we continue to register above average market performance

over our competitors.


FaSHIoNrumjungle


Why is the U.S. market important to you?

Did we ever tell you that the idea of founding our company was

born right there?! rumjungle was not born as a phenomenon

to adhere to the Italian or european scene where we have

been present for a while. We’re aiming high, as always. We

want to become global, and the United States is one of the

next targets that we have set. I have always loved and carefully

studied the US business model, and the idea of connecting

american’s passion for Made in Italy to Italian success stories

inspires me to pursue the idea of the american dream, which

has been passed down from immigrant grandparents. they,

leading in business; we, leading in style. their excellence

mixed with our excellence. the objective is to put the whole

thing in comparison on the same market.

So why is Rumjungle an ideal brand for Americans?

We know that in comparison to the multinational fashion

giants who dominate the market and tend to standardize the

styles and way of dress, it will be very hard. Nevertheless,

we believe so much in our project and strongly distinguished

Italian identity that hopefully will represent the tantalizing

novelties for which the american customer is searching.

the idea of exporting an Italian brand that offers the market

affordable prices is one reason that leads us to draw closer

to the United States.

What is the inspiration of this season’s collection?

We propose an original cosmopolitan look that is

inspired by everyday life. yet we keep the vintage

theme, which we find in the washed fabrics, cold dyes,

and structures of some items. Part of the collection

gives a nod to the Dandy image, which we express

in the style of some jackets and blazers. Moreover,

inevitable enrichments include our signature items with

refined details like paisley on denim shirts, blazers,

and outerwear; embellishing bowties; and particular

cuts of pants.

Have you rolled out any new items?

the real novelty this season is the rJ one capsule

collection, which is made up of Made in Italy items

that are often an asymmetrical cut and loose fit—all

intended for the more aggressive man who wants

to follow street trends and be in step with fashion.

Moreover, after the success of a recent experiment

with a capsule collection of sneakers, we decided to

expand the offer with a wider model shoe collection,

as well as some bags and backpacks for both men and

for women.

Interview with Mattia Giansante, Style and Production Manger.


roBerto collinaa continental DiviDe

FaSHIoNroberto collina


“the original nucleus of our company was founded in the

early ‘50s by adelmo Collina and his wife Livia Setti who

were the parents of roberto. adelmo sold handknitting

machines of the brand Wählt and his wife Livia established

and ran a knitting school with the same machines to give

viable support to her husband.

“It’s important to point out that, until then, no female

vocational school of this type had existed and, after the

war, this initiative represented an important innovation

for youth and the territory’s social fabric, which was

exclusively rural. We proudly point out that the school

produced people who later founded important knitwear

companies.

“the roberto Collina brand and company were founded

on January 1, 1983. roberto had already joined the

company in the late ‘70s. With the inclusion of roberto,

the company took on a more international approach

and started collaborating with other brands in foreign

markets, such as Germany, Holland, France; the Dutch

market proved particularly successful in numbers. What

did not change was the passion for the product and Made-

in-Italy craftsmanship.


“the main characteristics that set our

company apart are probably faithfulness to

quality, continuous research, staff training,

the transfer of skills, seriousness in

dealing with customers and suppliers, and

innovation.

“the 1981 film Continental Divide, which was

directed by Michael apted, encompasses

all the flavor of roberto Collina’s new

2016 winter collection: a cynical and

unscrupulous american journalist among

the bald eagles of the rocky Montains.

FaSHIoNroberto collina


outsourcing, overseas production, loss of local

jobs, low worker wages, and poor working

conditions are not only driven by big corporations

but also the consumer’s demand for low-cost, fast

fashion! are we willing to spend $200 on a pair of

good quality shoes, or do we prefer to purchase

multiple pairs at $20?

Did You Know?

“the goal today is to reinforce the

roberto Collina brand, especially in

foreign markets who appreciate and

know how to value our DNa.”

roberto Collina


a frozen party

By cily hairstylist

Welcome to our winter frozen party with special

guests: the Ciuffi rossi (literally ‘the red heads’)! If you don’t

know which look to show off for this New year’s festivities,

then this article is for you. Why not try the look of the Ciuffi

rossi twins?!

GrooMINGcily hairstylist


Laury: Power and Seduction

Sophisticated and elegant, our femme fatale

sports a sophisticated curl that is formed by the

“twister” technique, allowing the flow of the curl

to go from wide to tight: the perfect fusion of

curl and movement. The color is a sophisticated

ombré, going from dark brown at the base to dark

blonde at the tips, with a hint of warmth and gold.

Stephan: Charm and Kindness

A sober look with a pinch of boldness, our little angel

is crowned with a beautiful eclipse haircut, which is

characterized by diagonal shading that grows into

a long wave, giving a very elegant shadow effect.

The highlights are platinum, very trendy for this

winter, and created with innovative color techniques

for contrasts that are contained and not flashy. The

styling is slightly disheveled through the application

of opaque, matte modeling paste.




Jhon: Fascination and Risk

Our tempter presents a wild look in complete

harmony with the future trends of 2016, which

are inspired by ethnic influences. The hair has

been set through irregular braiding, while light

is reflected by the light blond ombré coloring.

The “bad boy” styling is perfected with the “wild

curling” technique of a curling iron. A glossy wax

on the tips heightens the movement of each strand,

which is finished off with extra strong hairspray—

only for those who love to be alternative and

fashionable.

Lena: Sweetness and Grace

Our second little angel dons a sober, delicate look.

Her blond hair fades into a clear ombré, tips dyed

with the nuance of an “ocean storm” and hints of

blue. Romantic undulating folds frame her face

and enhance her figure. This look is for those

who want to be chic and always on top, absolutely

elegant and never vulgar.


It’s all about lengths and cuts of long voluminous

strands, with a light touch of vintage! Natural styling is

enhanced by powdered wax, while polishing oil causes

the brilliance of their red tints to pop. the effect of their

chunky hair is slightly disheveled and is intended for those

of you who love volume and alternative retro styles.



Duality. the roman numeral two is represented in the

zodiac symbol of these twins. Very often things divide

into opposites: darkness and light, fire and water, air and

ground, black and white. there are two singers in Italy,

twins, who have become known together for singing

on youtube. Identical in appearance, different for their

voices, they bring a duality into their singing. they are

Marco and alessio Bianchi.

“Surely it’s not that common to find twins with red hair

that sing, but it’s a combination of factors that leads an

audience to follow a singer or person on the web. It’s not

so important to beautiful, nice, or good, as it is above all

to be able to engage the audience.”

Ciuffi rossi, (‘the red Heads’)


Grappa noninoDistillers in friUli since 1897

CUISINegrappa nonino


“My family has been dedicated to the art of

distillation since 1897: the year in which orazio Nonino, our family

patriarch, settled in ronchi Percoto—the location of his distillery,

which, until then, existed only in the form of a traveling still on

wheels. We are now the 6th generation.

“Grappa is the oldest and most traditional distillate of Northern

Italy. It is obtained by distilling the solid part of the grape, the

marc. Friuli is a famous region for excellent white wines and also

produces some red grapes from native varieties that are in high

demand. Nonino grappa is distilled from fresh marc immediately

after fermentation and during the harvest.

“the marc is gathered the same day in which the grapes are pressed

and placed in stainless steel vats for fermentation. this type of work

is essential to ensure fermentation—the transformation of sugar into

alcohol—of the marc and the preservation of its pure characteristics.

“My family—especially my sister, Cristina, who accompanies our

father in the distillery—deals personally with the purchase of raw

materials and follows the various stages of distillation to ensure

the highest quality of Nonino grappa.

“ageing occurs while the grappa is resting in wood, which alters

its sensory profile both by the action of oxygen that reaches the

acquavite through the porous nature of the wood itself and by

the impact of substances that the wood releases slowly into the

product, thereby enriching it. We only use small barrels, barriques,

because the greater the contact of the distillate with natural wood,

the greater the enrichment.

“Since 1952 our aging cellars are home to small barrels made of

different kinds of wood: today they boast 1,885 in Limousin oak,

Nevers, Grésigne and ex- Sherry casks, acacia, wild cherry, and

pear. our grappa has 0% dyes; even the amber color of varying

intensities comes from the time spent in wood.

“In Italy there is no obligation to declare the real distiller or the type

of distillation on the label, whether it is artisanal or industrial. our

grappa is distilled 100% by traditional methods and we only bottle

grappa distilled in our steam stills in ronchi Percoto. therefore, I

invite you to read labels carefully and, if information is vague, that

is not a good indication.

“traditional methods of distillation cost 10 times higher

than industrial ones in terms of investments in equipment

and energy demands. as for aging, I suggest you pay close

attention to make sure that the numbers on the bottle refer to

the years of aging, because they are often imaginary numbers

or a celebration of an event.

“the choice of grappa depends on personal tastes. Some prefer

aromatic grappa, so I suggest Monovitigno Moscato or Fragolino,

or even a dry Monovitigno Merlot grappa.

“Cru Monovitigno Picolit is a legendary grappa that meets

everyone’s expectations. Perfect in purity but also complimentary

to Prosciutto di Parma or San Daniele, it can be paired with an

‘unforgettable’ fig mustard.

“then we move on to our aged Monovitigno Chardonnay grappa,

which ages 10 months in barriques, so that the wood does not

dominate the elegant features of the Chardonnay grape.

“For those who love reserve editions, Nonino riserva antica

Cuvée is wonderful! aged from 4 to 20 years in barriques of

Limousin Nevers and ex- Sherry casks, it has great aromatic

richness, with hints of spice, brioche, pastries, orange,

and candied fruit. It is perfectly paired with foie gras, bitter

chocolate, or warm chocolaty desserts.”

antonella Nonino, 5th generation of distillers in the Nonino family.


top quality distillates should be served at a temperature

between 10° (50°F) and 14°C (57°F) and they should never

be frozen, while aged grappa and grape distillates should be

served at room temperature in special balloon shaped glasses.

It is crucial to let them rest for a few minutes in the glass: on

exposure to oxygen the perfumes are enhanced and the nose/

palate harmony is perfected.

It is important to start with the distillate that has the lowest

alcohol content and work up in sequence towards the higher

quality distillates.

how to taste Grappa

CUISINegrappa nonino


Muddle and pound ¼ lime with 2

spoonfuls of cane sugar. Fill a glass

with crushed ice and amaro Nonino

Quentessentia®. then top it off with

soda water. Stir energetically with a

spoon and decorate with mint leaves.

Place 5-6 ice cubes in a low tumbler. add the

grappa and tonic with a squeeze of a lemon.

Garnish with a lemon slice.

Nonino Tonic®

1 oz. grappa

3 oz. tonic water

Nonino Frozen®

2 oz. amaro Nonino Quentessentia®

Soda water

1 lime

Cane sugar

2 mint leaves

cocKtails with Grappa


Grappa poliDistillers in veneto since 1898

“the history of Poli Distilleries is the story of my

family, four generations of grappaioli (‘grappa producers’) since

1898. It was my grandfather, GioBatta Poli, who in 1885 decided

to leave the green fields of asiago and move to Schiavon to open

a tavern where he sold wine and straw hats—the family business.

“after some time in that area, the first train station was built

along the railway that united Vicenza and Bassano del Grappa

and so, between a shot of grappa there and another served in

the pub, GioBatta Poli bought the first three boilers, which are

still working since 1898.

“over the years, the boilers of the distillery increased to 12 with us

siblings: Jacopo, andrea, and Barbara—the fourth generation of

grappa craftsmen.

“to talk about grappa also means talking about our territory, the

foothills of Veneto, the area at the foot of the Dolomites and a

fertile terrain. the hilly foothills are situated in the heart of the

Veneto region, which is characterized by beautiful landscapes,

stretching from the territories of Verona’s hills, passing

through Bassano del Grappa and Marostica, and continuing to

trevigiano—all the way to Vittorio Veneto.

CUISINegrappa poli


“Grappa is the only truly Italian distillate, because

Italian law defines it exclusively as such only

when it is produced from marc that is obtained

from grapes grown and vinified in Italy.”

Poli Distillery

Did You Know?

“Here the most famous genuine wines in the world are cultivated,

from amarone to Prosecco and, therefore, also the fresh marc

that arrives at the Poli Distillery with its special flavor and aroma

worthy of note.

“What we do today is work faithfully according to five basic

principles: 1) choose fresh and healthy raw materials; 2)

immediately distill the raw material; 3) masterfully use our historic

still; 4) operate with perseverance and passion; 5) respect the

distillate and the consumer.

“at Poli Distillery we use four different stills, all discontinuous

cycles but different periods of construction and heating

technologies: three steam stills with four boilers, a classic water

bath still that consists of two boilers, and a vacuum water bath still

with 2 boilers.

“a good product is the result of a very simple equation: the sum

of the five principles, which guide our work, together with the

use of a good artisan still, accompanied by one hundred years of

experience in the field.

“there is no ideal time for an aged grappa; instead, you need to

have a lot of discipline to get an aged grappa of good quality,

because the aging process demands time and investment of space

and money from the company.


“right now we have two types of aged grappa at two and four

years and a single aged grappa of 13 years. It is called Poli

Barrique, a product that was born out of the resolve of my father

and distilled for the first time in 1989. Since then, we produce

only nine barrels a year.

“true, there are many types of grappa on the market; the grappa of

one time that, burning the throat, had no defects but also no soul,

no longer exists. What I always say is that grappa does not exist,

whereas grappas do exist, all different for their vines, stills, grape

marc, vintage, style, and so on.

“the choice of grappa is driven by a very personal motivation,

whereby often many variables come into play: the preference for

a particular brand, as well as pleasant family rituals, a scent that

reminds us of something….

“the best way to taste the grappa is to follow your feelings,

determining whether the grappa is for meditation or use after

a meal with friends, according to your own personal traditions.

When in doubt, keep it in the fridge and leave it a few minutes in

the glass before tasting.

“Guided tours are an integral part of life in our company; the artisan

distilleries in Italy have almost all disappeared and should be

valued. For this reason, we offer a guided tour in several languages

of 90 minutes to learn about the origins, history, and distillation of

grappa. the tour concludes in the aging cellars with a tasting of

our distillates.”

Jacopo Poli, owner and Museum Curator, 4th generation of distillers

in the Poli family.

CUISINegrappa poli


Did You Know?

“Acquavite is a generic term and synonym of

‘distillate’. It is necessary to specify from which raw

material it has been obtained: Grappa, for example,

is an acquavite from grape marc; brandy is an

acquavite from wine; vodka, from potatoes; whisky,

from grain; rum, from sugar cane; and so on.”

Poli Distillery


“the company was born out of my father’s passion:

Paolo, who was first a student of the prestigious Wine Institute

“Umberto I” of alba, then a science teacher in the same school. He

cultivated a natural predisposition in the art of distillation, which

he decided to implement in 1977, after having taught an optional

course of ‘Herbs and Liquors’ for several years.

“thus, he began exclusively with the production of Monovitigno

grappa: initially focusing on the main varieties like Moscato and Barolo

of Piedmont, then moving outside the region to gather small quantities

of Brunello grape in tuscany and even traminer in trentino alto adige.

“the same passion has been handed down to me. From an

early age I have been interested in the work of my father,

making it mine, trying to learn all the secrets and peculiarities

of distillation. For this reason I decided to enroll in and

graduate from the same school of my father, then to graduate

with a degree in economics from Bocconi University in Milan.

“My relationship with my father was one of complicity and

constructive dialogue, in which new ideas and tradition are always

a meeting point!

Grappa Marolothe Grape Doesn’t fall far froM the vine

CUISINegrappa marolo


“Surely the Veneto region was one of the first to be an ambassador

of grappa, but this does not mean that the product is better: grappa

is the only liquor that can be produced throughout the whole of

Italy. It’s a spirit that can be produced according to the variety of

grape marc and express scents and flavors of entire regions, as

well as of individual vineyards.

“Like making a good coffee, a good grappa is born from three

elements: raw materials, machines, and hands. as for the raw

materials, I must first qualify that the marc (i.e., the skins of the

grapes) must be fresh: this is the reason we distill only three months

a year, from September to early December, 24 hours a day, 7 days a

week. only four years ago did we start producing small quantities of

grappa from amarone in January and February; it is impossible to

obtain the necessary raw materials before that time of year.

“the machine is essential in order to obtain a product that is always

soft and never pungent; in our opinion it is the discontinuous water

bath pot still: just like when cooking at home, you want to avoid

burning what’s in the pot. this type of system allows for the same

advantages also in the production of grappa.

“as for the hands, they refer to the way the process of distillation

is managed: the temperature in the boiler and the separation of

foreshots and aftershots from the ‘good’ grappa (the central

part) are all the steps that confer a different character in the

final product of one distillation to another.

“there is no ideal ‘aging time’: it depends on individual tastes!

For example, we have the grappa from Barolo that is aged for

9, 12, 15, 20, and 27 years. Up to 12 years, we use oak barrels

that had been used previously for the production of Marsala and

Chardonnay from producers in Piedmont, extracting flavors and

aromas of vanilla with hints of cocoa and dried fruit.

“From the twelfth year onwards, we move on to new acacia

barrels, which allow us to extract more austere tastes of

tobacco and leather notes, balanced with fresh menthols. For

these reasons, the 9- to 12-year grappa from Barolo meets most

palates accustomed to the great Bas armagnac and Cognac,

while whiskey drinkers prefer the older grappa.”


“It is one thing to taste a grappa and another thing to drink one: for

tasting, I advise serving the grappa straight up at room temperature

(18-20°C/64-68°F) in tulip-shaped glasses for white grappa and a

sniffer for aged grappa. only this way is it possible to appreciate

the scents, flavors, and lasting aftertaste of the various products.

“However, when you drink grappa, the options are different: for

example, it is interesting to serve white aromatic Moscato and

traminer cold (especially in summer) or even add a few drops of

water to aged Barolo grappa, as with whiskey.

“Grappa was born as a digestive; but it can be drunk from early

morning mixed with coffee (caffè corretto), paired with chocolate

desserts or blue cheese (especially aged aromatic ones like our

‘Dopo’—a Muscat grappa that has been aged for five years in

casks of Moscato Passito from Pantelleria). aged Barolo grappa is

excellent if accompanied by a good cigar.

“Grappa is extremely versatile: for the aged ones I advise straight

up, while the white ones can be mixed without problems! among

our most popular products we have Milla, a liqueur of grappa and

chamomile that is perfect: a product with unique fragrances that is

increasingly used to prepare new cocktails!”

Lorenzo Marolo, son of founder Paolo Marolo.

aDvice in servinG

CUISINegrappa marolo


“the best way to choose a grappa is first of all to

taste it! there are many varieties available on the

market: it is said that everyone enjoys a grappa of

Chardonnay, just as it happens with wine!

“If you do not have the opportunity to taste it,

remember that aromatic varieties of grappa, such

as Muscat or traminer, satisfy palates accustomed

to tastes that are more delicate and sweeter; while

grappa from Barolo or amarone is preferred by

drinkers of big brown spirits.”

aDvice in choosinG


archipelaGo la MaDDalena 62 islanDs anD islets of paraDise

traVeLarchipelago la maddalena


When it comes to holidays in Italy, we immediately think of cities

like rome, Venice, and Florence or places like Capri and the

amalfi Coast. But Italy is full of real gems, perhaps less known

but equally fascinating for their history, scenery, and culture. the

archipelago of La Maddalena, north of Sardinia, is a beautiful and

surprising paradise on earth.




Why is La Maddalena considered an archipelago?

La Maddalena is a marine park that covers an area—both land

and sea—of about 20,000 hectares and 180 kilometers of

coastline. the archipelago is a closely interdependent complex

of sea and land, and it is considered one of the most beautiful

landscapes in the world for its sea and marine flora, as well as

for its geographical location in the Strait of Bonifacio, between

Sardinia and Corsica.

What activities does the archipelago offer tourists?

on the island there are numerous diving and sailing centers;

moreover, it is possible to rent boats for marine excursions.

you can go out in a rubber dinghy or sailboat, or even make

excursions on foot or by boat with licensed guides. on the Island

of Caprera, there is also a sailing school (the CVC Caprera) and

the horseback riding tourist center, Cavalla Marsala.

How about cultural events?

of significant importance is the exhibition “the Suitcase actor,”

now in its 12th edition and dedicated to Gian Maria Volonté,

a true legend of Italian cinema. the festival takes place every

summer, usually from July 27 to august 2, with an intensive

program of meetings and screenings.

Is there a notable religious event?

the most important religious event is Santa Maria Maddalena,

patroness of the island, which takes place on July 22. the

traditional procession that accompanies the saint and patroness

of the island and archipelago goes through the streets of the

center and then out to sea.

What about sports events?

among the relatively important sporting events is La

Maddalena Caprera Half Marathon, organized by Bettiol

Sports events, which takes place every year in September.

throughout the summer, there are also many sports

activities organized in the archipelago, such as the Night

run and CorrIsola, organized by Lions runner Caprera, and

the trial running Sardinia race along the paths of Caprera.


Tell us more about these trails?

the itineraries suggested by the National Park of La Maddalena

wind entirely throughout the island of Caprera on beaten paths

with sign posts, all connected to each other along small stretches

of paved road. they are mostly made up of short routes with

minimal inclines that can be tackled without any special training

and more challenging excursions that offer significant differences

in height for suitable walkers.

What are the ideal times of year for visiting?

the paths of Caprera can be explored all year; but the best

times are fall and definitely spring, when most plants are in

bloom; the warm weather and few crowds allow you to “taste

nature’s awakening” from a privileged position. the first hours

of summer days and the beautiful winter days, however, offer the

opportunity to spend a few pleasant hours immersed in precious

natural environments.

What should tourists bring along?

No special equipment is required to tread the paths of Caprera,

just a pair of comfortable shoes (for hiking or sports), a water

bottle, binoculars, a camera, and a nature guide. remember,

depending on the season, to bring a swimsuit!

Is it true that the archipelago is also a museum?

yes. the museum of the sea and seafaring traditions is a perfect

example of equilibrium between nature and culture. the Museum

intends to represent a pillar of local traditions for present and

future generations. there are photographs, documents, and

objects in the museum, as well as everything related to the

recovery of the ancient local culture tied to the sea.




What is the typical dish of La Maddalena?

U ziminu isulanu. It’s a fish soup typical of La Maddalena’s

culinary tradition. the dish was created as an expression of the

fishermen’s cuisine. It is prepared by cooking onion and ripe

tomatoes in oil over low heat until pasty to provide the base in

cooking the catch from the archipelago. In the poorest traditional

recipe, it was a small undesirable fish or just the heads; in times

of extreme poverty—even a macciotta (a stone taken from the

seabed), which at least kept the flavor of the sea.

How did this dish come about?

When fishing was favorable before the days of refrigerators,

they could not keep fresh food very long. the heads of the

fish were cut off, fried, and then preserved with garlic sauce

so that they could be consumed one or two days later. the

heads were the strongest of ziminu, cooked a long time and

then crushed. U ziminu was eaten with fresh or stale bread,

according to financial possibilities and tastes, guaranteeing

the right amount of nutrients and satisfying hunger. today

we use crostini, which are toasted before bringing the broth

to the table and lightly rubbed with garlic. Someone puts the

croutons on the bottom of the pot and covers them with the

broth. Immersing them one by one for a few seconds, we eat

them as they are flavored with the broth but still crunchy.

Interview by Federica Fatale with Carla Caredda, Public

relations.



Ingredients

4 ½ lbs. of mixed fish: capons, redfish, eel, mullet,

octopus, cuttlefish, squid, shrimp, prawns, mussels,

clams, fish chunks.

l oill Saltl Parsleyl Garlicl onionl red pepperl Dried tomatol tomato puree

Preparation

In a large saucepan, sauté the octopus and squid, then

add the chopped onion. add the chopped dried tomato

and some tomato puree, a clove of garlic, parsley, and

red pepper. When everything is well browned, add water

and simmer until the cuttlefish, octopus, and squid are

tender. then salt and add the fish to cook: first the capons,

redfish, eel, and mullet. Finally, add the clams, mussels,

and fish bits. Simmer for about ten minutes.


reD in italythe BooK aBoUt italy no traveler will ever write

BooKSmade in italy


Made in Italy is one of the most famous brands in the world. this

means that people everywhere are buying “Italian,” those who

have included Italy in the list of countries to be visited before they

die and perhaps cherish the idea of moving to live in the Bel Paese

[‘Beautiful Country’].

Red in Italy is an uncharacteristic travel book that addresses the

foreign consumer, clarifying aspects of which we Italians know

little. Cuisine, tourism, and art are some of the areas brought under

scrutiny: in each chapter stereotypes and myths are dissected in an

attempt to understand what truth lies within them.

this is the presentation of Red in Italy. In exploring the main theme

in this edition of Uomo Moderno—namely, Made in Italy and its

true essence—we allow the interviews in the book to speak. Chefs,

artisans, teachers, ice cream makers, tour guides, and farmers

have had their say on the topic of authenticity and the Made in

disclosure.

Dafne Perticarini, author.

To Export or Not? Just Don’t Do Away with Parmesan

What do you think Italians should export, beyond the well-known

icons?

“I think, before exporting, we should find our identity. Nowadays

exporting risks becoming monkey see monkey do. our products

and culture are present a bit all over the world, but we do not

know how to protect them. think of all the counterfeits, I mean,

from Parmesan to mozzarella. If it were possible to protect our

products…but this is a political issue, not something managed by

small businesses.

“Politics are what concede things, making people on the other

side of the world call a cheese ‘Parmigiano’ by adding another ‘g’

to the name. In Italy, it has only one and it is sold by calling it

‘Parmigiano.’ the other is a product with a hint of Italian; it has

a competitive cost, but in reality it is not Parmesan since it has

nothing to do with the original.”

andrea Vigna, Chef


Market Ignorance and the Case of the Truffle

“the price of truffles in alba, also wholesale, is 4 times that

of acqualagna (in Le Marche). there is too much demand for

the truffle of alba, and much of the product has to be found in

other areas, such as Le Marche, Molise, or in the area of Istria

(Croatia). It would not be a problem if all the supply companies

were certified as ours. the real problem is that oftentimes the

product’s origin is unknown.”

a truffle entrepreneur

When a Big Company Wants to Look Authentic: the Comical

Law of Organic Wine

“I spoke with the producers of organic wine who told me clearly

that the new european legislation was a joke, so much so that

several companies that were already using organic methods had

given up writing ‘organic’ on the product. I do not believe it was

for mere protest, but because today’s wine found on shelves

under that label is the result of a process with a long list of

unnatural ingredients, allowed by law in higher percentages than

used previously by organic producers. So these companies no

longer consider themselves in that category.

“We small producers had united and tried to assert our position

before the law was approved. But do you think they listened to

us? the big companies arrived: they know that organic sells well

today, so they want to be able to produce it in large quantities.

they can exert so much more pressure than all of us together

that, in fact, we were not heard.”

organic Wine Producers

True Craftsmanship Cannot Be Exported Easily

“From what I have seen in meetings for artistic craftsmanship,

those who are big enough to export resort to labor that is cheap

or at least not paid adequately for what is performed.”

artistic Craftsman

BooKSmade in italy


Agribusiness: 100% Italian?

“PDo and PGI products are linked to territories that are recognized

by the european Union on the basis of a specification. a PDo,

protected designation of origin, must be obtained from raw

materials that are grown or bred in Italian territory and produced

according to the specification, with possible transformation,

aging, etc. that also occur within a part of the Italian territory

indicated in the specification.

“therefore, we can define PDo Italian products as truly and

completely 100% Made in Italy. Problems arise with PGI,

protected geographical indication, because PGI ones are

heterogeneous in both the type of product (raw materials) and the

possible transformation. there are 100% Italian IGP products, as

well as IGP ones that are merely transformed in Italy.”

Coldiretti, the Italian Farmers association

Hope for Greater Protection to Prevent Extinction

Returning to Made in Italy, which, like organic, is not rarely

understood and is often confused with fakes and scandals….

“It is not protected. It is a much exploited brand in the world that

appeals a lot. But there is no proper protection. We have in our

hands a fortune, which we do not realize.”

Bruno Sebastianelli, entrepreneur and organic Farmer

The Author

Dafne Perticarini has defined Red in Italy “an uncharacteristic

travel book” because she believes the work is the right

introduction for those who wish to travel to Italy with a greater

awareness and buy Made in Italy without being fooled. Soon the

sequel to Red in Italy will be available, focusing on places and

people like a conventional travel book.


Uomo Moderno magazine inaugurated the 2nd edition of

the New Generation Fashion Tour, which kicked off at the

Cutting room on the second day of New york Fashion Week

(Friday, September 11) and concluded a month later at Voyeur

Nightclub on the second day of the Philadelphia Collection—

the city’s official fashion week.

the New Generation Fashion Tour showcased the men’s and

women’s collections of five young emerging brands from Italy,

including the casual streetwear of rumjungle, the active wear

of Gate 64, the remade new street of WyWoL (photo left),

the 100% milk collection of DueDiLatte (photo right), and

Francesca Marotta’s haut couture.

the new Generation

fashion toUrUoMo MoDerno’s fashion

show froM italy

eVeNtSfashion tour



While the quartet was tuning their instruments on stage and

models from all around the world were being fitted by the

Italian designers in the corridor below, hundreds of guests

crammed into the Cutting room on the evening of 9/11. It was

a night of solemn remembrance—a tragedy, a nightmare—

something that we must never forget.

But as the flood lights beamed onto the stage and the sounds

of 4Strung filled the air, there was a feeling of excitement—an

expectation of dreams coming true! the dreams of young men

and women who had long desired to walk the catwalk, the

dreams of emerging designers from Italy who had longed to

show at New york Fashion Week.

as always, special thanks to our sponsor for helping Uomo

Moderno make dreams come true: the Skygroup team at

Warburg realty. Specific thanks to tearsheet for providing the

hair and makeup team for the event.

at new yorK fashion weeK

a niGht of caBaret

eVeNtSnew york


DueDiLatte


actress JamieLee ackerman, here

wearing Francesca Marotta, was

star guest model at the show!

eVeNtSnew york


Israeli designer avshalom rave

accessorized the show with his line

of Perepaix jewelry.


Normally, the City of Philadelphia rolls out its fashion week

right after New york Fashion Week in early September. this

year, however, papa Francesco gave little Francesco some

major competition and the Philadelphia Collection was

postponed to this first week of october.

So on Friday, october 9th, Voyeur Nightclub swung its

doors wide open to the Uomo Moderno Fashion Show from

Italy, which, for the second consecutive year, was declared

a Marquee Event by the City of Philadelphia! thanks

Philadelphia for the brotherly love and sisterly affection!

Special thanks to the rittenhouse Spa & Club - Hair by Paul

Labrecque - for an outstanding job in hair and makeup!

at the philaDelphia collection

UnDer the Disco liGhts

eVeNtSphiladelphia


WyWoL


Gate64

eVeNtSphiladelphia


Francesca Marotta


Wearing DueDiLatte at New york Fashion

Week and WyWoL at the Philadelphia

Collection, Pastele Pasqualina performed

a few hits from her latest album. originally

from Livingstone, New Jersey, Pastele

combines reggae pop and indie art into an

edgy hybrid of “hip pop.”

city of pastele

eVeNtS music



at both shows, students from the New york Conservatory for

Dramatic arts performed a Fashion Vignette, which interpreted the

designers’ inspiration behind the 2016 spring/summer collection

of DueDiLatte; namely, Marilyn Monroe, Charlie Chaplin, tutti frutti,

african beats, and the joie de vivre!

Fashion Vignettes are a new innovative medium, created by Uomo

Moderno magazine, to present fashion and designers’ inspiration

through an interpretive type of mini off-Broadway skit. at the 2nd

edition of the New Generation Fashion tour from Italy, the Fashion

Vignette was conceived and directed by Caleb alexander (photo left).

originally from Las Vegas, Caleb had penned and directed the

play Chasing Starlight: A Love Letter to the Universe in February

2015. He is currently writing a new web series/tV pilot for Uomo

Moderno magazine called Whatta Guys Really Want?, which

addresses relevant topics of today’s youth.

the fashion viGnette

eVeNtScaleb alexander


Documents

Uomo Moderno Winter 2016