UL9 fashion-women

CHRISTIAN DIOR

Fashionby Tracey Porter

110 www.un iquees tates.com.au

WOMeN’s

Cinched waists and A-line skirts look set to define us as the international fashion houses opt for

a shapely silhouette this season.

It was not by chance Tokyo was selected as the showground of choice for the release of Christian Dior’s first ever pre-fall collection.

Raf Simons, the luxury house’s creative director, has a relationship history with Japan dating back 20 years when visionary local male fashionistas were among the first to embrace the Belgian’s menswear label back in the 1990s. In addition the luxury fashion house Simons works for has several flagships stores in the country and has often spoken of its admiration for the way the Japanese liberally express themselves through their fashion choices.

But eager to take inspiration from the future rather than the past there was little reference to tradition in any form with Simons seeking to move beyond the elegant red carpet gowns the brand is synonymous with, instead embracing a more every day aesthetic for stylish city folk to immerse themselves in.

Nip-waisted coats constructed from waxed cotton make an appearance so too do heavy-duty zippers. Layering and knitwear are big, arriving via sequined turtlenecks; Fair Isle sweater dresses glittering in yellow, green and silver or courtesy of knit vests worn with wide-legged trousers.

Dresses are either short and dressed in plaid or sleeveless bar dresses layered with long fur vests, perfect for the autumnal season.

Stretch platform high boot in green and grey bicloured leather - $2,800Diorama cuff bracelet in metal with palladium finish, black leather and black lacquer - $1,250

Veiled bonnet adorned with silver sequins - $1,400

www.dior.comStockists: 02 9229 4600

Un ique Luxu r y 111


PRADA

The House of Prada offers modern contemporaries a lesson in how to

truly sort the sartorial wheat from the chaff by allowing old school Prada

to make a welcome return to the runway in the label’s pre-fall season

collection.

Miuccia Prada continues her fascinating exploration of both the

similarities and differences between the way men and women dress by

including a number of seemingly gender-neutral pieces in this

collection.

Save for a few bared backs and gros-grain bows and ribbons, Prada

presents a somber uniform of pleated pinafore dresses and utilitarian

coats with just the right amount of elegance, simplicity and clean lines to

keep everyone honest.

The colour palette consists almost entirely of black, save for a blue, red

and white tartan coat, some splashes of grey and neutrals and a beautiful

silver above-the-knee sleeveless dress. Alongside textured fabrics and wool, the choice of the iconic Prada

black nylon plays a key role, used also in eveningwear to add a touch of

modernity to feminine elegance.

Speaking in Milan post collection launch Prada herself told US Vogue: “I

always think why can’t we have the same thing for women as for men?

Known and simple things. Really, that is what I like. Easier to do than

‘fashion’.”

Snakeskin gloves - $1,010Prada Saffiano Bag - $2,980Prada clutch in camel - $3,030

www.prada.comStockists: 02 9223 1688



LOUIS VUITTON


This may be the first pre-fall collection womenswear creative director Nicolas Ghesquière has ever done for the French fashion house, but it is a collection almost three decades in the making.

Having dreamily begun sketching dress designs in his schools books at the tender age of 12, the man the British Fashion Awards named its International Designer of the Year last year has been quick to use the 1970s as a key reference point as part of his latest offerings.

Continuing the lean silhouette first evidenced in his previous outings in Paris and Monaco, this season the former Balenciaga creative director offers a more relaxed take on his vision for the season.

High-waisted cropped pants, two-button blazers and A-line skirts are shown alongside cool bomber jackets (complete with fury collar) while ribbed turtlenecks are teamed with colour-blocked dresses or double denim in a classic nod to the fashions of the day.

From a fabrication perspective, texture is key with denim treatments offered alongside leather piping on key pieces while plenty of oversize tweed and corduroy round out the ‘70s theme. The colour palette is easy on the eye with neutrals interspersed with splashes of red and electric blue dominating this season.

Petite Malle Bag (Monogram Canvas and calf leather) - $5,950Dora PM (calf leather) Bag - $5,250

Charlotte Shoes (calf and patent leather) - $1,620

www.louisvuitton.comStockists: 1300 883 880


BURBERRY


It would be hard to ignore the issues of legacy and birthright when you’re

at the helm of a fashion company valued at almost £8 billion and

about to celebrate its 160th year of operation.

It’s harder still when your name is Christopher Bailey and just 12

months ago you reportedly became a father for the very first time.

Which of course may have something to do with the fact

those charged with noticing such things have pointed out that Bailey,

who also acts as the brand’s chief creative director, has made a

conscious effort in recent times to create new heirloom pieces.

Quite aside from the status achieved by the brand’s iconic

trench – whose modern incarnation first appeared more than 100 years

ago - Bailey’s autumn/winter 2015 collection offers more than

a passing nod to the successes of the past with high-waisted smocks,

ponchos, capes, English suede fringing, mirror textiles and mixed

fabrications among its offering.

Titled Patchwork, Pattern and Prints, the collection boasts all manner of silhouettes with top coats, tailored

and fitted outerwear and short A-lined dresses in abundance,

shown to best effect with animal and camouflage printed lace,

patchwork quilts and house check.

In keeping with this heritage theme, Bailey employs a quilting technique

named for Durham, near his birthplace in East Yorkshire.

Key colours in this collection incorporate indigo, red, burgundy,

teal and ochre.

The Long Fringe Scarf - $1,550The Bucket Bag in elderberry English suede with tiered fringing - $3,950The Ponytail Shoe in black suede with fringing - $1,550

www.burberry.comStockists: 02 8296 8588


Miu Miu

The 66-year-old creative genius behind Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada, could never be accused of losing touch with her inner child.

Having created the Miu Miu brand almost solely as a creative playground inspired by her own wardrobe, Prada uses the fashion house’s first-ever formal pre-fall collection to bring her playful muse out to explore – albeit in a ladylike fashion.

Tweed caplet coats, long wool walk shorts, shrunken blazers and plaid camp shirts are the order of the day and when styled with adventurous deerstalker caps and Boy Scout kerchiefs resemble something straight out of the 1920s.

But of course the designer, who in 2014 was listed as the 75th most powerful woman in the world, is only too aware of where her bread and butter comes from and in that regard there is plenty to keep her loyal fans placated with key retro flower prints and Miu Miu’s popular short dresses – only this time reincarnated with contrast patch pockets - also making timely appearances. While the hats in the collection point to the idea of masculine style, a sexy and feminine attitude finds its place through wool silk socks.

Cap with leather trim detail - $620Mary Jane shoe - $1,140

Crocodile skin boot - $2,700

www.miumiu.comStockists: 02 9223 1688

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