TURKESTAN REP 13

1 BirdQuest Tour Report: Turkestan 2013 www.birdquest-tours.com

A male Meadow Bunting (Mike Rodegerdts)

TURKESTAN

15 MAY – 2 JUNE 2013

LEADER: MARK VAN BEIRS The rocky hills, saxaul deserts and marshes of Uzbekistan and the rock-strewn gorges, snow-capped mountains, semi-deserts, dry steppes, reedy wetlands and extensive lakes of Kazakhstan offer the resolute birder some of the most memorable bird spectacles of the Palearctic. That magnificent Himalayan Snowcock walking amongst patches of snow, those multiple, extremely attractive male White-tailed Rubythroats singing their hearts out from the top of juniper bushes, those five playful, so endearing, young Marbled Polecats exploring the Taukum desert, those immaculate, fluffy Azure Tits foraging only metres away in a seeding willow, that unique Ibisbill feeding in its mountain stream, those superbly elegant Demoiselle Cranes and that rare Sociable Lapwing in the rippling feather steppes and the incredible sight of 60,000 Red-necked Phalaropes in breeding plumage dotted like midges over a huge lake were the unforgettable highlights of our Central Asian adventure. Other goodies seen on our travels include White-headed Duck, Dalmatian Pelican, Horned Grebe, Pallid Harrier, Red-footed Falcon, Saker, Macqueen’s Bustard, Black-winged Pratincole,


White-tailed Lapwing, Pallas’s Gull, White-winged Tern, Yellow-eyed Dove, European Scops Owl, White-winged Woodpecker, White-winged and Black Larks, Black-throated Accentor, White-throated Robin, Eversmann’s, Blue-capped and Güldenstädt’s Redstarts, Finsch’s Wheatear, Sykes’s, Upcher’s, Menetries’s, Asian Desert, Eastern Orphean, Barred and Sulphur-bellied Warblers, Desert Whitethroat, Severtzov’s Tit-Warbler, Rufous-naped and Yellow-breasted Tits, Pander’s Ground Jay, Rosy Starling, Saxaul Sparrow and Pine, Meadow and Red-headed Buntings. Corsac Fox and Saiga got the blood of the mammal enthusiasts pumping. We also visited a couple of historic cities along the old Silk Road and the Registan complex of Samarkand and the Citadel of ancient Bukhara made quite an impression. Our very international group recorded 277 birds and 14 mammals.

Lesser Grey Shrike (Vera Voronova) & Mistle Thrush (Mark Van Beirs) We arrived in the early morning at Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan. After rather unorganized immigration and customs formalities, we found ourselves in the capable hands of our ground agents and drove into the nearby Chatkal Range to our well-positioned hotel amongst shrubby hill slopes dotted with colourful wildflowers. We were surrounded by impressive snow-capped mountains and superb scenery, with Common Nightingales and Hume’s Whitethroats singing away. For the rest of the day we explored the immediate surroundings and obtained cracking views of specialities like White-winged Woodpecker, Blyth’s Reed Warbler, a very obliging Rufous-naped Tit, lots of Yellow-breasted Tits, Turkestan Tit, Indian Golden Oriole and White-capped Bunting. The supporting cast consisted of several Eurasian Griffon Vultures, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, a perched Long-legged Buzzard, both morphs of Booted Eagle, European Turtle Dove, European Roller, a flourishing colony of Common House Martins with a few Red-rumped Swallows, Masked Wagtail, Mistle Thrush (nest with young), Spotted Flycatcher, Lesser Grey Shrike, Oriental Crow, Common Raven, Common Myna, European Greenfinch, Hawfinch (always nice),Rock Bunting and a Rapid Racerunner lizard. An after dinner stroll produced a Tawny Owl for some. We explored the hotel area for the first hours of the day and managed great looks at a singing Common Nightingale, at an Oriental Turtle Dove and at a subtly-plumaged Hume’s Leaf Warbler. After breakfast we returned to Tashkent, stopping in the foothills for Grey Wagtail and a pair of White-crowned Penduline Tits at their beautiful suspended nest. Beautiful yellow rosebushes adorned the roadsides and along the river we found lots of Common Terns, a few Collared Pratincoles, Little Ringed Plover and Eurasian Oystercatcher. After a hearty lunch in Tashkent we transferred to a large, very comfortable bus for the long drive to fabled Samarkand. At the Syr Darya River (the Jaxartes of the ancient) we admired the multiple White Stork nests on the electricity pylons (up to six nests per pylon) and added Pygmy Cormorant, Purple Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron and Western Marsh Harrier to the list. Keith saw a vagrant Red-wattled Lapwing and at some impressive cliffs we observed a splendid Lammergeier , several Eurasian Griffon Vultures, Lesser and Common Kestrels, Turkestan Shrike and a cracking male Red-headed Bunting. A bare rocky slope gave us a male and a female Variable Wheatear. Before arriving at scenic Samarkand Laughing and Collared Doves and Pied Bushchat were also noted.


The Registan Square in Samarkand & Red-headed Bunting (Mark Van Beirs) The Zerafshan range holds a variety of different habitats and our first stop at an altitude of 1700m in rocky hills with isolated flowering hawthorn bushes and grassy slopes full of fantastic spring flowers like gentians, salsify, milk-vetch, leek, lousewort, fennel, etc produced a splendid selection of goodies. Two male White-throated Robins allowed perfect scope views as they were singing away from the top of their bush. A pair of modestly-clad Upcher’s Warblers performed superbly amongst the stalks of asphodels and several Eastern Olivaceous Warblers were flitting amongst thorny branches. Attractive Eastern Orphean Warblers displayed and mated in front of us and quite a few wonderful Red-headed Buntings showed off their lovely livery. Short-toed Eagle, Eurasian Crag Martin, Turkestan Shrike and Ortolan Bunting were also well-liked before we sat down for a tasty al fresco breakfast. We then visited a higher plateau where a Hume’s Short-toed Lark was scoped at length. Our only Egyptian Vulture of the tour flew over and a perky Eastern Rock Nuthatch obliged next to Rock Sparrow and bobbing Turkestan Rock Agamas. At lower altitude we explored a forested valley where a Cetti’s Warbler gave an amazing performance as it sat singing for minutes in the open. A pair of rather shy Asian Paradise Flycatchers behaved discreetly at their well-built nest, a smart Grey-capped Goldfinch shoed very well and several Greenish Warblers foraged in the bushes. After a scrumptious lunch of mutton chops accompanied by flocks of Rosy Starlings and a Himalayan Griffon Vulture, we paid a visit to a stretch of bare rocky hills where Finsch’s and Pied Wheatears, Eurasian Hoopoe, European Roller and Tawny Pipit showed very well. In late afternoon, at the centre of ancient Samarkand, we stood in awe at the magnificent Registan Square with its amazing madrassas and mausoleum. The marvellous atmosphere was enhanced by a Shikra and parties of shrieking Alpine Swifts overhead and the day ended with a great dinner in a private house.

Breakfast in the Kyzylkum desert & Pander’s Ground Jay (Mark Van Beirs)


A pre breakfast walk in riverine quaking aspen woodland and at a reedy edged lake gave us great looks at several White-winged Woodpeckers, Garganey, Northern Shoveler, Black-winged Stilt, Little and Temminck’s Stints, Wood Sandpiper and Little Tern. After breakfast we sniffed a bit more culture in Samarkand, visiting Timur’s Mausoleum and the Mosque of Bibi Khanum and strolled through the very atmospheric food bazaar. In the afternoon we drove to Bukhara through irrigated fields and small villages. We left very early to arrive into the heart of the Kyzylkum (Red Sand) desert not too long after dawn. It was rather overcast when we walked into the lovely Saxaul and Ephedra (joint-pine) dotted sandy dunes, and soon we heard and saw our main target , the inscrutable Pander’s Ground Jay. The first one was rather distant, but after a bit of strategic walking, we obtained much better looks at this very special Central Asian endemic. We saw it call from the top of the Saxaul bushes, observed it running at speed over the sandy tracts and admired its striking white wings as it flew short distances. A truly remarkable species! We also noted Back-bellied Sandgrouse, Long-tailed and Steppe Grey Shrikes, Tolai Hare, Yellow Ground Squirrel, Steppe Agama, Sunwatcher Toadhead Agama and lots of interesting plants like broomrape. A stop at a small desert oasis yielded Little Owl, magnificent Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters, migrant Eurasian Golden Orioles, Desert Finches, a Sand Martin colony and lots of Indian House Sparrows (form ‘bactrianus’). A waterhole in the middle of the desert held Kentish Plover with chicks, both Lesser and Greater Short-toed Larks, a lovely male Bluethroat, Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin and Isabelline Wheatear. We flushed a Common Quail and had a marvellous time observing the antics of a Asian Desert Warbler family with its three fledged young. At small reedy lakes closer to Bukhara we found Glossy Ibis, Great Egret, Purple Heron, Red-crested Pochard, Western Marsh Harrier and Gull-billed Tern. The marshy surroundings of huge Lake Tudakul near Bukhara held a good variety of waterbirds and warblers. We walked along the lake edge where highlights included White-tailed Lapwing and delicately marked Sykes’s Warblers at minimal range. A female Ferruginous Duck with ducklings was being harassed by two marauding Caspian Gulls and in the reeds several adult Grey Herons showed off their bright red bills and legs in display. We also noted widespread species like Little Grebe, Great Cormorant, Common and Ruddy Shelducks, lots of Red-crested Pochards, Greater Sand Plover, Common Greenshank, Indian Reed Warbler, Savi’s Warbler and delightful Bearded Tits. Later we birded the tamarisk groves along the Amu-Bukhara canal where Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin, a cracking male Menetries’s Warbler, Oriental Skylark, Black-headed Wagtail and a Striped Racerunner lizard stole the show. On our afternoon stroll through historic Bukhara the citadel, several madrassas and mausolea, some domed artisan shops and the tall Kalyan minaret drew our attention before we took an evening flight to Tashkent. The following day was mainly a travelling day as, after a relaxed morning, we waved goodbye to Uzbekistan and flew to the city of Almaty (ex Alma Ata) in nearby Kazakhstan. We birded the hotel garden at the edge of this sprawling green city and found Common Kingfisher, Great Tit and an introduced Musk Rat.

Rosy Starling & male Lesser Kestrel (Mike Rodegerdts) Next morning, our Kazakh venture started in earnest as we met Andrey, our capable birdman and Vera, our faithful translator/miss fix it and drove east to the Charyn Gorge area. Our first stop in a rocky, bushy valley amidst snow-capped mountains gave us the splendid experience of a very active Rosy Starling colony at very close range. We were surrounded by hundreds of singing, displaying and preening bright pink and black coloured adults sporting splendidly bizarre crests. So very enjoyable. Nearby we spotted several singing male Grey-necked Buntings and Rock Sparrows and two eyries of Long-legged Buzzard with chicks. We


drove higher into the gorge, observed a concentration of 50+ Black-eared Kites and 80+ Common Ravens and admired several handsome Lesser Kestrels capturing flying insects almost at our feet. A bushy valley held a singing male Meadow Bunting and Himalayan Griffon and Eurasian Black Vultures circled overhead. On the return drive to base Andrei spotted a male Common Nightjar which we eventually managed to scrutinize on the deck at minimal distance. Great stuff!

European Nightjar & European Scops Owl (Mike Rodegerdts) Another full day in the Charyn and Ili River area started with a pair of superbly elegant Demoiselle Cranes, a Saker Falcon (perched and in flight) and a Steppe Eagle. A prolonged sit at a waterhole resulted in great looks at birds coming to drink including Mongolian Finches, Common Linnet, a couple of Eurasian Crimson-winged Finches, Grey-necked Buntings and several Black-bellied Sandgrouse. Lots of Great Gerbils were sunning themselves and nearby we scoped a striking male Desert Wheatear. We drove north to the Ili River and explored the Turanga woodland covering the river dunes. Quietly stalking and scanning soon gave us pretty good looks at the searched for Yellow-eyed Dove and eventually everyone managed to discern the yellow orbital ring and the yellow iris. Lesser Whitethroat and Turkestan Tit also obliged and nearby we located several charming Saxaul Sparrows at their nests in roadside pylons. An evening walk in the local park gave us spectacular looks at both male and female European Scops Owl at their nesthole.

Black-bellied Sandgrouse & Pale Martin colony (Mark Van Beirs) The following morning started with a visit to a Pale Martin colony. Birds were very active, digging in the sand or sitting in pairs at the entrance of their holes. The subtle differences compared to Sand Martin could be seen and we also found European Bee-eaters, Eurasian Tree Sparrow and Eurasian Hobby here. Next we explored an impressive gorge bordered by rocky hill slopes with flowering bushes and slabs of bare rock. White-capped and Rock Bunting showed very well and we obtained brilliant views of Chukar and of a displaying and singing male Blue Rock Thrush. We then left the Charyn plains, drove through the modern centre of Almaty and made our way into the Tien Shan mountains making several stops in the lower reaches. A nest building pair of Azure Tits was much appreciated, a Blue Whistling Thrush appeared all too


briefly and a Brown Dipper was resting on a river boulder. In late afternoon we arrived at our accommodation situated at a remarkable 2800m altitude.

The Tien Shan (Mark Van Beirs) & Sulphur-bellied Warbler (Vera Voronova) Next morning we birded at the higher altitudes of the Tien Shan and made our way up to a breath-taking 3300m amongst alpine meadows, snowfields, scree and rocky crags where a whole new selection of birds appeared. It was gloriously sunny at first, but all too soon the clouds came in and ruined it all. We heard the distinctive, whistling calls of Himalayan Snowcock emanate from the distant slopes and after some scanning, eagle-eyed Vera managed to locate it. We scoped it and managed to get closer for great looks. We could study this large, cagey creature as it was walking about, preening and foraging in its alpine habitat. Magical moments! Several male White-tailed Rubythroats were singing nearby warming our hearts by their alluring behaviour. Both male and female Güldenstädt’s Redstarts begged for attention and several Brown and Altai Accentors showed well. Water Pipits were parachuting over the meadows, several Plain Mountain Finches flitted about and a pair of White-winged Grosbeaks fed in juniper bushes. Northern Wheatear, Eurasian Wren, Coal Tit, a female Red-mantled Rosefinch and Red-billed and Alpine Choughs were also seen. The afternoon was sabotaged by thick fog, but we still managed to get fair looks at White-browed (Severtzov’s) Tit-Warbler, Grey Marmot, Eurasian Red Squirrel (with amazingly long ear tufts and grey tail) and Black-throated Accentor.

Coal Tit (Mike Rodegerdts) & Eversmann’s Redstart (Vera Voronova) Next day we surveyed a stretch of spruce (Picea schrenkiana) forest edge and juniper scrub near a rocky streambed close to the tree line. A glorious Ibisbill gave prolonged scope views while feeding in a stream, showing its most intricate plumage details. Several pairs of Eversmann’s Redstart allowed intimate looks while feeding young and three males Blue-capped Redstart vied for attention. A Grasshopper Warbler was studied in detail, a party of adorable Red-fronted Serins performed, Tree Pipits displayed, several magnificent White-tailed Rubythroats wanted to be seen, a Merlin hurtled past, a Sulphur-bellied Warbler forgot its skulking habits, a male Red-mantled Rosefinch fed ubobtrusively and a pair of White-winged Grosbeaks gave amazing looks. Edelweiss was photographed and many alpine plants were scrutinized by the plant lovers.


Our final hours in the Tien Shan were spent in the spruce zone, where we observed the white-bellied race of White-throated Dipper, Goldcrest and Spotted Nutcracker and heard Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker and Siberian Chiffchaff. We crossed Almaty again and made our way northwest to famous Lake Sorbulak, enjoying the wonderful sight of red poppy dotted fields. At the lakeshore we watched the frenzied activity at a colony of Rosy Starlings and an islet held a teeming population of both White and Dalmatian Pelicans. Several parties of these lumbering birds were fishing in unison. Thousands of Great Cormorants occupied the few dozen trees on the lake shore and on muddy verges we scoped a Broad-billed Sandpiper and several Terek Sandpipers. Lots of Great Crested Grebes, Whooper Swan, Ruddy and Common Shelduck, Northern Pintail, Shikra, Northern Lapwing, Black-tailed Godwit and Common Redshank were also seen. A short drive away another wetland was inhabited by dozens and dozens of delectable Black-necked Grebes with chicks at the edge of a Black-headed Gull colony, but best of all were several obliging White-headed Duck allowing lengthy scrutiny of their plumage. A splendid adult White-tailed Eagle circled lazily over, a couple of really wild Mute Swans swam about, a Caspian (Common) Reed Warbler was emitting its scratchy song from the reeds and an impressive Dice Snake was hunting Marsh Froglets on the water edge. We continued driving into the Taukum desert counting lots of clumsy-looking Calandra Larks and several Brown-necked Raven and arrived at our yurt camp in the early evening. A Barn Swallow tried to roost in Janice’s yurt and the starry sky was overwhelmingly impressive.

Great White Pelicans & Greater Sand Plover (Mike Rodegerdts) Next morning, before breakfast, we were already admiring a displaying male Macqueen’s Bustard from the camp as it was running around like a demented chicken. A marvellous spectacle. Most of the day we scored the desert in search of Caspian Plover. We made many stops and scanned and scanned but ploverwise only Greater Sand Plovers obliged. Not a sniff was had of Caspian. On our wanderings we picked up European Honey Buzzard, Eurasian Griffon Vulture, several Demoiselle Cranes, lots and lots of Calandra Larks, a few Bimaculated Larks, a magnificent male Citrine Wagtail of the race calcarata, Desert Whitethroat and a few Goitred Gazelle. We found a leucistic Rook and in late afternoon several quite aggressive Camel Spiders, lots of Horsfield’s Tortoises and seven playful young Corsac Foxes appeared, but the highlight of the day was a family of five incredibly cute, endearing young Marbled Polecats that looked as if they had just started to explore the world. So very, very appealing!

Little Bustard (Elaine Nye) & Horsfield’s Tortoise (Mark Van Beirs)


The following day, before breakfast, we scoped the displaying Macqueen’s Bustard again and later continued our thorough search of the plover’s classical haunts in the Taukum desert, but no luck. A smart male Montagu’s Harrier had a brawl with a swift Eurasian Hobby and we had good looks at a pair of Demoiselle Cranes with chicks. We explored ‘the farm’, a small oasis of elm trees surrounding a few houses in the middle of the desert, where a flourishing rook colony, hordes of Black-eared Kites and lots of migrant warblers like Blyth’s Reed, Greenish and Hume’s Leaf Warblers showed. Later we drove back to Almaty, stopping for lunch and a Little Bittern (for a few lucky souls) before taking a flight to Astana, the new capital of Kazakhstan. Next morning we left the amazing conurbation of Astana with its bizarre and ultra modern, eccentric architecture and headed towards the marshes and the steppes for which this corner of Kazakhstan is famous. Hooded Crows escorted us and our first stop at a bushy, reed-edged pond produced mega looks at Black Tern, Bluethroat, Cetti’s, Paddyfield and Booted Warblers and Common Reed Bunting. Wet meadows gave us lots of dainty Pallid Harriers, a Common Crane, dancing White-winged Terns, a very well behaved Short-eared Owl and scores of Sykes’s Wagtails. A windbreak harboured several graceful Red-footed Falcons and in riverine vegetation we had eye-ball to eye-ball looks at a male Barred Warbler. As soon as we entered the rippling feather grass steppe Black Larks appeared and their slow motion display flight soon became a feature of our visit. Here and there Russet Ground Squirrels guarded their burrows. At midday we settled into our cosy accommodation in a village and enjoyed some fabulous Kazakh hospitality. In the afternoon we first scanned some traditional spots for Sociable Lapwings and eventually found a single bird that showed well. It would remain our only observation of this critically endangered species. We also obtained great looks at charismatic and much-wanted White-winged Larks. Later we birded several lakes and we will never forget the amazing spectacle of c60,000 pirouetting Red-necked Phalaropes. A heart-warming spectacle! An islet held a large mixed colony of Pallas’s and Steppe Gulls and amongst the many waterfowl we identified a couple of Long-tailed Duck, several Common Goldeneyes and two White-headed Duck. Other interesting species included Pied Avocet, Grey Plover (in breeding plumage), Eurasian Curlew and Common and Slender-billed Gulls. Another great day in the steppes and at the fantastic lakes of northern Kazakhstan started with a bout of birding at a bushy river meander where Bluethroat and Barred Warbler did their best to outshine eachother. We located a couple of colonies of Black-winged Pratincoles and admired the antics of these elegant critters. Many displaying Black Larks caught our attention and a series of stops at saline, brackish and freshwater lakes gave us an first-rate selection of waterbirds. New species for the tour included Black-throated Loon, Red-necked Grebe, Greylag Goose and Ruddy Turnstone, but we also found good numbers of Dalmatian Pelicans, several Common Cranes and a smart Citrine Wagtail (of the nominate race). But best of all was the superb encounter we had with that strangest of antelopes: the fabled Saiga. A single animal showed very well only a couple of hundred meters away, so we could discern the strange snout and the bizarre gait. Quite an experience! We concentrated for a while trying to get good looks at reed loving species and came away with splendid views of a single Moustached Warbler, of a reeling Savi’s Warbler and of many Paddyfield Warblers. A male Merlin of the ghostly race pallidus showed near the nest and after a late lunch at our respective guesthouses we returned to the hubbub of Astana. On the last day of the tour we travelled north to the edge of the steppe and visited an area of pine and elm woods, a shrubby pond and a large reed-edged lake. Because of the unusual cold, rainy weather bird activity was rather low but we did manage to find a splendid male Pine Bunting and a cooperative Siberian Chiffchaff. A pair of delicate Pallid Harriers and a showy Short-eared Owl were quartering a vole-riddled pasture. A well-vegetated pond held an fine Horned Grebe and a disused field harboured a loose colony of fat Bobak Marmots. A flowering willow bush was visited by delightful pair of Azure Tits. In the afternoon we strolled along a dam overlooking a large reedy lake where Great Reed Warblers and lots of Bluethroats were singing away. A Common Quail was located, a Great Bittern boomed from the dense reeds and both Eurasian Hobbies and Red-footed falcons were capturing dragonflies overhead. A splendid end of an enjoyable tour.


Bluethroat (Mark Van Beirs) SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were only recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (LO). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). Species marked with the diamond symbol (◊) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered ‘special’ birds for some other reason (e.g. it is only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; it is difficult to see across all or most of its range; the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species).


Conservation threat categories and information are taken from Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International’s magnificent book on the sad status of the rarest 10% of the world’s avifauna, and updates on the BirdLife website: http://www.birdlife.org/datazone/home CR: Critically Endangered EN: Endangered VU: Vulnerable NT: Near Threatened Himalayan Snowcock Tetraogallus himalayensis: THE BIRD OF THE TRIP! Great views in the Tien Shan . (◊) Chukar Partridge Alectoris chukar: Some really nice encounters in the Charyn area. Common Quail Coturnix coturnix: Scope views of a singing male and also several times flushed. Regularly heard. Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus (H): Regularly heard in Uzbekistan and also in the Almaty area. Greylag Goose Anser anser: Small numbers were noted in northern Kazakhstan. Mute Swan Cygnus olor: A regularly encountered species on the lakes of Kazakhstan. Here really wild birds! Whooper Swan Cygnus cygnus: Small numbers were seen on the steppe lakes. We also noted pairs with cygnets. Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna: This well-known duck was a regular inhabitant of lakes in Kazakhstan. Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea: Small numbers were noted in Uzbekistan and in Kazakhstan. Gadwall Anas strepera: Regular observations. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos: Small numbers were noted all along our route. Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata: A regular sight on the steppe lakes. Northern Pintail Anas acuta: Just a few observations of this elegant species. Garganey Anas querquedula: Regular sightings of this handsome duck. Eurasian Teal Anas crecca: A single bird was seen on a reed-edged lake near Astana. Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina: Many observations of this exquisite duck. Females with ducklings were also noted. Common Pochard Aythya ferina: A regularly encountered species. Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca: A few. Great looks at one with ducklings being pestered by a Caspian Gull. NT (◊) Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula: Just a few on a northern Kazakhstan lake.

Horned Grebe (Mark Van Beirs) Long-tailed Duck Clangula hyemalis: Two females were found on the Red-necked Phalarope lake near Astana. VU Common Goldeneye Bucephala clangula: A dozen or so birds were noted on the same lake. White-headed Duck Oxyura leucocephala: Eight at Lake Sorbulak and two on a lake in northern Kazakhstan. EN (◊) Black-throated Loon Gavia arctica: A single bird in splendid breeding attire in northern Kazakhstan. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis; Just a few observations.


Red-necked Grebe Podiceps grisegena: Two were noted on a reed-edged lake in northern Kazakhstan.Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus: Many were seen at Lake Sorbulak and smaller numbers elsewhere. Horned Grebe Podiceps auritus: A magnificent eye-ball to eye-ball observation on a pond in northern Kazakhstan. Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis: Many with chicks at the Black-headed Gull colony near Lake Sorbulak. White Stork Ciconia ciconia: 30+ at and near the colony along the Syr Darya in Uzbekistan. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: A few sightings at marshes in Uzbekistan. Eurasian Bittern Botaurus stellaris: Seen by a few and heard by all at reed-edged lakes in Kazakhstan. Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus: Brief looks for some of a flying bird near Lake Sorbulak. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: Just a handful of sightings. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: Regular. Great looks at birds in breeding condition at Lake Tudakul near Bukhara. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Regular encounters with this beautiful species.

Great White Pelicans (Vera Voronova) Great Egret Ardea alba: Just a few observations. Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus: Great looks at an active breeding colony on Lake Sorbulak near Almaty. Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus: Fair numbers were fishing and breeding on the same lake. VU (◊) Pygmy Cormorant Microcarbo pygmeus: A few showed well in Uzbekistan. NT (◊) Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo: Common. Huge colonies could be seen on Lake Sorbulak near Almaty. Bearded Vulture Gypaetus barbatus: Magnificent views of flying and perched birds near Samarkand. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus: A single adult flew over us in the Zerafshan range near Samarkand. EN European Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus: A perched adult was seen in the Taukum desert. Himalayan Vulture Gyps himalayensis: Nice looks at several in the Charyn area. The eyries seemed unoccupied… Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus: Small numbers in eastern Uzbekistan and in the Taukum desert of Kazakhstan. Cinereous Vulture Aegypius monachus: Several were seen well in the company of the previous species. NT Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus gallicus: A single bird was circling and hovering near Samarkand. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus: Ten nice observations of this dapper bird of prey. Both pale and dark morphs. Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis: A single sighting in the Charyn area. Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos: A couple of observations of this powerful raptor. Shikra Accipiter badius: Four sightings. Very nice looks at one at lake Sorbulak. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus: Ten observations of this widespread species. Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus: Many excellent encounters with this well-known bird of prey. Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus: Many splendid sightings in the Kazakhstan steppes. Superbly elegant. NT Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus: Several great looks. Great interaction with a Hobby in the Taukum desert. Black Kite Milvus migrans: Many observations in the Charyn area and in the Taukum desert.


White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla: A splendid adult bird circled over us at Lake Sorbulak near Almaty. Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus: Many sightings. Several eyries with large young were found. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo: A few observations only. Some were Steppe Buzzards (vulpinus), others ?? Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni: Regular observations. Magnificent close ups in the Charyn area. V Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: A commonly encountered species. Red-footed Falcon Falco vespertinus: Several very enjoyable observations in northern Kazakhstan. NT Merlin Falco columbarius: Seen in the Tien Shan (lymani) and in the Kazakh steppes (the ghostly pallidus). Dashing. Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo: 14 encounters with this endearing and speedy bird of prey. Saker Falcon Falco cherrug: A single bird showed rather distantly in the Charyn area. EN Macqueen's Bustard Chlamydotis macqueenii: Good scope looks at a displaying bird in the Taukum desert. VU (◊) Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax: A female was seen at close range in the Taukum desert. A new bird for the tour. NT Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Regular encounters. Eurasian Coot Fulica atra: Common. Demoiselle Crane Grus virgo: Many great sightings of this lovely species. Also seen with chicks. (◊) Common Crane Grus grus: A few were noted in the northern steppes. Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus: Several encounters, both in Uzbekistan and in Kazakhstan. Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii: Good looks at a foraging adult in the Tien Shan. A truly great bird! (◊) Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: Many sightings of this vocal species. Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta: Just a handful of birds on a steppe lake in northern Kazakhstan. Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus: Regular observations. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus (NL): Keith saw a single bird from the bus near Samarkand. Sociable Lapwing Vanellus gregarius: A single bird showed very well in the Astana steppes. CR (◊) White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus: Several sightings in the Bukhara area. (◊) Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola: A single bird in breeding attire was seen on a northern lake. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: Regular encounters.

Little Bustard female (Vera Voronova) Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus: A handful of sightings. We also saw the tiny chicks. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaulti: Lots of nice observations in the Taukum desert. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa: A few observations only. NT Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata: A single bird was seen at one of the steppe lakes in northern Kazakhstan. NT Common Redshank Tringa totanus: Regular and noisy.


Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: Several very nice sightings of breeding-plumaged birds. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Two sightings of this nice wader. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: A single bird was seen near Bukhara. Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus: Great looks at this unusual wader at several lakes in Kazakhstan. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: A few sightings only. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres: Several showed in spectacular breeding plumage at a northern steppe lake. Little Stint Calidris minuta: Many at the northern steppe lakes. Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii: Several nice encounters with breeding plumaged birds. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea: Just a few in resplendent breeding dress. Dunlin Calidris alpina: Regular encounters. Broad-billed Sandpiper Limicola falcinellus: Great scope studies of a breeding plumaged bird at Lake Sorbulak. Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus: 60,000 were pirouetting on one of the smaller steppe lakes! Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola: Nice looks at several near Tashkent. Black-winged Pratincole Glareola nordmanni: A great showing at breeding colonies in northern Kazakhstan. NT (◊) Slender-billed Gull Chroicocephalus genei: A single bird was seen at a steppe lake. Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus: Common. Pallas's Gull Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus: Many excellent views. Pairs with delightful chicks at a steppe lake. (◊) Mew Gull (Common Gull) Larus canus: Regular in the northern steppes. Caspian Gull Larus cachinnans: Quite common in Uzbekistan and southern Kazakhstan. (◊) Steppe Gull Larus barabensis: Common around the steppe lakes of northern Kazakhstan. (◊) Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica: Just a few sightings. Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia: A handful of encounters with this impressive species. Little Tern Sternula albifrons: Regular. Common Tern Sterna hirundo: Common. White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus: Delightfully common over the northern marshes. So elegant. Black Tern Chlidonias niger: Small numbers were noted at the northern steppe lakes. Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis: Great looks at a waterhole in the Charyn area.

Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Mike Rodegerdts)


Rock Dove Columba livia: Next to the feral birds, we also encountered some real wild ones. Yellow-eyed Pigeon Columba eversmanni: Nice scope looks at this speciality in the Ili River groves. VU (◊) Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus: Regular. European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur: A few were noted in eastern Uzbekistan. Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis: Regular excellent sightings. Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto: Common in Uzbekistan and southern Kazakhstan. Laughing Dove Spilopelia senegalensis: Common in Uzbekistan. Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus: Regular and vocal. Several lovely observations. Eurasian Scops Owl Otus scops: Cracking views of male and female near our guesthouse in the Charyn area. Tawny Owl Strix aluco: A single bird showed briefly to some in the Tashkent hills. Little Owl Athene noctua: A couple of observations in the Kyzylkum desert. Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus: Many smashing views in the Astana area, often at close range. European Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus: Andrei found a sitting male of the race unwini in the Charyn area. Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba: Great looks at small numbers in Samarkand. Common Swift Apus apus: Common. European Roller Coracias garrulus: Many splendid sightings of this attractive bird. NT Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: A few nice encounters. Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus: Very satisfactory encounters with this colourful species in Uzbekistan. European Bee-Eater Merops apiaster: Regular and beautiful. Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops: Regular observations of this unusual-looking bird. White-winged Woodpecker Dendrocopos leucopterus: Nice looks at this speciality near Tashkent. (◊) Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker Picoides tridactylus (H): We heard it at close range in the Tien Shan. Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio: A female at Lake Tudakul was our only sighting. Red-tailed Shrike (Turkestan Shrike) Lanius phoenicuroides: Many excellent encounters. Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: A few sightings. Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor: Regular encounters. Remember the rosy chest. Steppe Grey Shrike Lanius pallidirostris: Two showed well in the Kyzylkum desert. (◊) Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus: A male and two females performed well at an oasis in the Kyzylkum desert. Indian Golden Oriole Oriolus kundoo: Regular in Uzbekistan and in southern Kazakhstan. Asian Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi: Best were the birds near their nest in a grove near Samarkand. Eurasian Magpie Pica pica: Very common. Pander's Ground Jay Podoces panderi: Great looks at this special and intriguing species in the Kyzylkum desert. (◊) Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes: Scope looks at a distant bird in the Tien Shan spruce forest. Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax: A few in mountainous areas. Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus: A few in the higher Tien Shan. Western Jackdaw Coloeus monedula: Common. Rook Corvus frugilegus: Common. Often in large rookeries in elm wind breaks. Oriental Crow Corvus orientalis: Fairly common. A recent split in the Carrion Crow complex. Hooded Crow Corvus cornix: Regular in northern Kazakhstan. Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis: Several nice sightings in the Taukum desert. Northern Raven Corvus corax: A few near Tashkent and an amazing concentration of 80+ in the Charyn gorge. Songar Tit Poecile songarus (H): We heard it in the spruce forest of the Tien Shan. (◊) Rufous-naped Tit Periparus rufonuchalis: Very nice views of a singing bird in the hills near Tashkent. (◊) Coal Tit Periparus ater: Regular in the Tien Shan spruces. Great Tit Parus major: A common town and garden bird in Kazakhstan. Turkestan Tit Parus bokharensis: Several lovely looks in the Uzbekistan oases. (◊) Azure Tit Cyanistes cyanus: Cracking looks at several of these very attractive creatures. (◊) Yellow-breasted Tit Cyanistes flavipectus: Many lovely views in the Tashkent area. (◊) White-crowned Penduline Tit Remiz coronatus: A few at their fluffy nest in the Tashkent area. Bearded Reedling Panurus biarmicus: Nice looks of several at Lake Tudakul and at a reedy northern steppe lake. Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra: Many, many in the Taukum desert. Impressive in flight. Bimaculated Lark Melanocorypha bimaculata: Several nice sightings in the Taukum desert. (◊) White-winged Lark Melanocorypha leucoptera: Several very nice observations in the northern steppes. (◊) Black Lark Melanocorypha yeltoniensis: Many really splendid sightings in the northern steppes. (◊)


Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla: Many observations of this widespread species. Hume's Short-toed Lark Calandrella acutirostris: Scope studies of this subtle species in the Zerafshan Range. (◊) Lesser Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens: Regular sightings in desert areas. The race is heinei. Crested Lark Galerida cristata: A few observations only. Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis: Commonly heard. Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula: A couple of sightings only. Horned Lark Eremophila alpestris: One or two showed briefly in the Charyn area. Sand Martin Riparia riparia: Regular. Several colonies were found. Pale Martin Riparia diluta: Great looks at an active colony in the Charyn area. (◊) Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Common. Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris: A couple of observations in the Uzbekistan hills. Common House Martin Delichon urbicum: Regular in the south. Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica: Very nice looks at several in the Tashkent area. Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti: Amazing encounters with singing birds all along our route. Magical performances. White-browed Tit-Warbler (Severtzov’sT-W) Leptopoecile sophiae: Nice looks in the Tien Shan junipers. (◊) Siberian Chiffchaff Phylloscopus tristis: We found this one in the Tien Shan and in northern Kazakhstan. (◊) Sulphur-bellied Warbler Phylloscopus griseolus: Splendid eye-ball to eye-ball views in the Tien Shan. (◊) Hume's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus humei: Regularly recorded. Often heard. Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides: Regular. Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus: Heard and seen in the reedbeds of the north. Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus: Quite common in the southern reedbeds. Moustached Warbler Acrocephalus melanopogon: Great scope looks at this goodie in a northern reedbed. Paddyfield Warbler Acrocephalus agricola: Many in the reedbeds of northern Kazakhstan. Blyth's Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum: Regular encounters in shrubby growth. Eurasian Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus: Just a few. Sometimes split off as Caspian Reed Warbler. Marsh Warbler Acrocephalus palustris (H): We heard it in a shrubby patch north of Astana. Booted Warbler Iduna caligata: Several excellent close up views in the northern steppes. (◊) Sykes's Warbler Iduna rama: Regular around Bukhara and Almaty. (◊) Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Iduna pallida: Regular observations in Uzbekistan and southern Kazakhstan. Upcher's Warbler Hippolais languida: Very nice views of this speciality in the Zerafshan range. (◊) Common Grasshopper Warbler Locustella naevia: Several very close encounters. Savi's Warbler Locustella luscinioides: Cracking looks at Lake Tudakul and in the northern steppes. Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria: Repeated great looks at this formidable warbler. Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca: Several sightings of this well known species. Desert Whitethroat Sylvia minula: A few were seen in the Taukum desert. (◊) Hume's Whitethroat Sylvia althaea: Common in the Tashkent hills and a few elsewhere. (◊) Eastern Orphean Warbler Sylvia crassirostris: Great close up looks in the Zerafshan range near Samarkand. (◊) Asian Desert Warbler Sylvia nana: Much appreciated close up looks at this lovely creature in the Kyzylkum desert. (◊) Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis: A few observations. Menetries's Warbler Sylvia mystacea: Splendid looks at a singing male near Bukhara. A beauty. (◊) Goldcrest Regulus regulus: Great looks at several in the Tien Shan spruces. Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes: A few were noted in the middle reaches of the Tien Shan. Eastern Rock Nuthatch Sitta tephronota: Scope views of this rock loving species in the Zerafshan range. (◊) Eurasian Treecreeper Certhia familiaris (H): We heard it in the Tien Shan forests. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis: Extremely common in Uzbekistan and southern Kazakhstan. The ‘warbird’. White-tailed Rubythroat Luscinia pectoralis: The number 2 in the Bird of the Trip game. Many magnificent looks. (◊)


Barred Warbler & Azure Tit (Mark Van Beirs) Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos: Splendidly common and so well voiced. White-throated Robin Irania gutturalis: Great scope studies of two males in the Zerafshan range near Samarkand. (◊) Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin Erythropygia galactotes: A few were seen in the Uzbekistan scrub. Eversmann's Redstart Phoenicurus erythronotus: Several great looks at this glorious species in the Tien Shan. (◊) Blue-capped Redstart Phoenicurus coeruleocephala: This gorgeous species showed very well in the Tien Shan. (◊) Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus: We saw a male in the Tashkent hills. Güldenstädt's Redstart Phoenicurus erythrogaster: Splendid looks at this striking species in the upper Tien Shan. Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maurus: Regular encounters. Pied Bush Chat Saxicola caprata: A few were seen in western Uzbekistan. Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina: Very common in the semi deserts. Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe: A few in the Tien Shan and many in the northern steppes. Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka: Regular in the southern hills. Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti: Good looks at a fine-looking male in the Charyn area. Finsch's Wheatear Oenanthe finschii: Several showed well in rocky hills near Samarkand. (◊) Variable Wheatear Oenanthe picata: A male and a female were seen in stony mountains near Samarkand. (◊) Common Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis: Several great looks at this stunning species in southern Kazakhstan. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius: A male was displaying in the Koktep gorge near Chilik. Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata: Fairly common in Uzbekistan and southern Kazakhstan. White-throated Dipper Cinclus cinclus: We obtained mega scope looks at the white-bellied race in the Tien Shan. Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii: Nice looks in the lower reaches of the Tien Shan. Saxaul Sparrow Passer ammodendri: We had great looks at this speciality in the Ili river area. (◊) House Sparrow Passer domesticus: The race ‘bactrianus’ was commonly encountered. Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis: Just one or two were seen. Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus: Small numbers only. Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia: Several nice encounters in Uzbekistan and southern Kazakhstan. Altai Accentor Prunella himalayana: Eight or so showed well in the higher reaches of the Tien Shan. (◊) Brown Accentor Prunella fulvescens: Good looks at several in the higher Tien Shan. (◊) Black-throated Accentor Prunella atrogularis: Regular in the junipers of the Tien Shan. (◊) Sykes’s Wagtail Motacilla [flava] beema: Quite common in the wet meadows of northern Kazakhstan. (◊)


Black-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] feldegg: A few were seen near Bukhara. Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola: We saw both the nominate race and the race calcarata. Very smart looking. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: Regular sightings.

White-winged Grosbeak & Grey-capped Goldfinch (Mark Van Beirs) Plain Mountain Finch Leucosticte nemoricola: Regular in the higher reaches of the Tien Shan. (◊) Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus: Regular sightings all along our route. Red-mantled Rosefinch Carpodacus rhodochlamys: Very nice looks at males and females in the Tien Shan. (◊) European Greenfinch Chloris chloris: Regular observations. Desert Finch Rhodospiza obsoleta: Fairly common in Uzbekistan’s Kyzylkum desert. Twite Linaria flavirostris: A few were noted in the Astana steppes. A fairly bright race. Common Linnet Linaria cannabina: Several came to drink at the Charyn waterhole. Grey-capped Goldfinch Carduelis caniceps: Regular. This distinctive form is often lumped in European Goldfinch. (◊) Red-fronted Serin Serinus pusillus: Fantastic looks at several along the Tien Shan forest edges. Pine Bunting Emberiza leucocephalos: Two males showed well in the woods north of Astana. (◊) Rock Bunting Emberiza cia: A few were noted in the Tashkent hills and also in the Koktep gorge of the Charyn area. Meadow Bunting Emberiza cioides: Mega looks at two males in the upper Charyn gorge. (◊) White-capped Bunting Emberiza stewarti: Regular sightings in the Tashkent hills and in the Koktep gorge. (◊) Grey-necked Bunting Emberiza buchanani: Quite common in the rocky hills of the Charyn area. (◊) Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana: Two migrants were noted in the Zerafshan range near Samarkand. Red-headed Bunting Emberiza bruniceps: A regular inhabitant of shrubby growth all along our itinerary. (◊) Common Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus: Several males were singing in the northern Kazakhstan reedbeds. MAMMALS Turkestan Red Pika Ochotona rutila: Several showed well on scree slopes in the Tien Shan. European Hare Lepus europaeus: A few were seen in the Astana steppes. Tolai Hare Lepus tolai: Several were seen, in the Ili and Charyn area. Eurasian Red Squirrel (Red Squirrel) Sciurus vulgaris: Several of these very handsome creatures in the Tien Shan. Bobak Marmot Marmota bobak: Small numbers were seen north of Astana. Grey Marmot Marmota baibacina: Some nice views of these furry fellows in the Tien Shan. They were quite confiding! Yellow Ground Squirrel (Yellow Souslik) Spermophilus fulvus: Regular in Uzbekistan and southern Kazakhstan. Russet Ground Squirrel (Russet Souslik) Spermophilus major: A few in the steppe area. Muskrat Ondatra zibethicus: A single was seen in Almaty. An introduced species from North America. Great Gerbil Rhombomys opimus: Plenty in the Charyn area. Really cute! Corsac Fox Vulpes corsac: A family group was found in the Taukum desert.


Eurasian Red Squirrel (Elaine Nye) Marbled Polecat Vormela peregusna: Five cute young gave quite a show in the Taukum desert! Thrilling! Goitred Gazelle Gazella subgutturosa: Several were seen in the Taukum desert. Saiga Saiga tatarica: Excellent looks at one of these strange crea tures in the Astana steppes.

Marbled Polecats & Old World Swallowtail (Mark Van Beirs) REPTILES and AMPHIBIANS

Horsfield’s Tortoise Agrionemys horsfieldii: Regular encounters in the Taukum desert. Rapid Racerunner Eremias velox: Several sightings in deserts and steppes.


Striped Racerunner Eremias lineolata: A single was seen near Bukhara. Turkestan Rock Agama Paralaudakia lehmanni: A few were found in the Zerafshan range near Samarkand. Steppe Agama Trapelus sanguinolentus: A few sightings in the deserts of Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan. Sunwatcher Toadhead Agama Phrynocephalus helioscopus: The more common lizards in the Kyzylkum desert. Lichtenstein’s Toadhead Agama Phrynocephalus interscapularis: One or two in the Kyzylkum desert. Grass Snake Natrix natrix: One was seen near the Syr Darya river in Uzbekistan. Dice Snake Natrix tessellata: One could be observed chasing small frogs near Lake Sorbulak. Marsh Frog Rana ridibunda: Regular in marshy areas. Common Frog Rana temporaria: A few in the Astana area. Green Toad Bufo viridis: A single animal in the Taukum. The form here is sometimes split off as “Bufo pevzcovi” NOTES TO THE SYSTEMATIC LIST The most up to date referenced taxonomic list referred to in the Tour Report is that of the IOC World Bird Names. Gill, F and Donsker, D (Eds). 2012. IOC World Bird Names (v2.11). Available at http://www.worldbirdnames.org Himalayan Snowcock Tetraogallus himalayensis The distinctive Palearctic genus Tetraogallus consists of five closely-related species, which all occur in remote and steep mountainous areas and are all highly-desired by Palearctic birding enthusiasts. One has to work to see snowcocks!!! Horned Grebe (Slavonian Grebe) Podiceps auritus Slavonia is a geographical and historical region in eastern Croatia. White Stork Ciconia ciconia c30 of the race asiatica were seen along the road from Tashkent to Samarkand, their colony of nests scattered along the roadside pylons near the Syr Darya River (the Jaxartes of the ancients). These birds probably winter in Iran and India, but some remain near the breeding areas. Black Kite Milvus migrans The form encountered is sometimes split off as a separate species: Black-eared Kite Milvus lineatus, but there is some controversy. Macqueen’s Bustard Chlamydotis macqueenii In previous years we have seen many more, and the sad truth is that the ‘Houbara’-hunting Arab falconers have moved into Central Asia, and this appears to be the net result. At the current rate of decline, the prediction is that soon there will none left! The Central Asian population is now highly endangered due to excessive hunting by wealthy Arabs in the Gulf region, Pakistan, and now Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan. We were told that in both Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan, Arab-sponsored “scientists” collect eggs of wild birds, which are brooded and reared in captivity and the resulting semi-wild birds released just in time for the falconers to kill! Very dubious stuff! Black-winged Pratincole Glareola nordmanni The scientific epithet refers to Alexander Von Nordmann (1803-1866), a Finnish/Russian naturalist and explorer. Sociable Lapwing (Sociable Plover) Vanellus gregarius This species is treated as CRITICALLY ENDANGERED by BirdLife International. The total population stands at 16,000- 17,000 birds and most of the birds breed in Kazakhstan, with just a handful in nearby Russia. Sudan is the main wintering ground, but several hundred birds migrate to northwest India! Black Lark Melanocorypha yeltoniensis One of the spectacular highlights of this tour, with many seen on the Kurghalzhin steppes. Many males were seen along the roadside, taking to the air in their unusual ‘air-rowing’ displays. A truly exquisite species! Yeltoniensis refers to Lake Yelton, situated near Volgograd (ex Stalingrad) on the Volga.


Lesser Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens The race involved, heinei, is sometimes placed with Asian Short-toed Lark Calandrella cheleensis. Brown Dipper (Pallas’s Dipper) Cinclus pallasii Peter Simon Pallas (1741-1811) was a German author and naturalist in Russian service, who travelled widely in Siberia and Kirghizia. Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos Plentiful and noisy at Beldersay, where we scoped a couple. They were with us all through Uzbekistan. In Kazakhstan they were very audible in the Charyn area and also in bushes near Astana. These birds of the race hafizi visibly differ from western populations by being greyer with a more contrastingly rusty tail, and having pale edges to their wing coverts and a pale supercilium, plus their songs sounds rougher. Eversmann’s Redstart (Rufous-backed Redstart) Phoenicurus erythronota This spectacular species is named after Eduard Friedrich Eversmann (1794-1860), German naturalist, author and collector in Kirghizia and Siberia. Güldenstädt’s Redstart (White-winged Redstart) Phoenicurus erythrogaster Great looks among the snow-covered buildings at Cosmostantsia in the Tien Shan. These hardy birds seemed little concerned with the snowy conditions! Johann Anton Güldenstädt (1745–1781) was a Baltic German naturalist and explorer in Russian service. Finsch’s Wheatear Oenanthe finschii The bird is named after Friedrich Hermann Otto Finsch (1839-1917) German diplomat, administrator, ornithologist, collector and author. White-browed Tit-Warbler (Severtzov’s Tit-Warbler, Stoliczka’s Tit-Warbler) Leptopoecile sophiae The bird is named after Nicklai Alekseevich Severtsov (1827–85), Russian naturalist, explorer and biogeographer. The scientific epithet probably refers to Tzarina Maria Alexandrovna (1824-1880), formerly Princess Maximiliane, Wilhelmine, Auguste Sophie Marie, wife of Alexander II, Tzar of all the Russians. Note that the Handbook of the Birds of the World (HBW) places this species, together with the closely related Crested Tit-Warbler in the family Aegithalidae, the Long-tailed Tits! Turkestan Tit (Turkestan Great Tit) Parus bokharensis The scientific epithet obviously refers to the city of Bukhara. The International Ornithological Congress (IOC) considers it as a subspecies of Great Tit Parus major. Pander’s Ground Jay Podoces panderi The Pander’s Ground Jay is endemic to the deserts of Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan and there is a small isolated population to the southeast of Lake Balkash in southern Kazakhstan. The bird is named after Heinrich Christian Von Pander (1794-1865), a Latvian/German geologist and palaeontologist. The four species of ground jay (genera Podoces) are all enigmatic species of remote, hard to reach places that appeal very much to Palearctic birding fanatics. Saxaul Sparrow Passer ammodendri Some wonderful looks in the Ili River area at six individuals, the lovely males showing off their ginger-and-black head markings, peeking out of their nest holes and chirping away merrily. Restricted to Central Asia. Although in Mongolia they are usually only found in Saxaul tree (Haloxylon ammodendron) habitat, in Kazakhstan they seem to prefer Turanga woodland and the neighbourhood of villages close to the desert.

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TURKESTAN REP 13