Trichology

TrichologyTrichology

Trichos= HairTrichos= Hair

Ology=the study ofOlogy=the study of

Trichology is the study of Trichology is the study of HairHair

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Prepared by: Steve EllisPrepared by: Steve Ellis

Hair AnalysisHair AnalysisWave Pattern and Wave Pattern and

TendenciesTendencies Hair texture is the thickness or Hair texture is the thickness or

diameter of the individual hair diameter of the individual hair strandstrand

Hair texture can be classified as Hair texture can be classified as course, medium and finecourse, medium and fine

Story of the StrandStory of the Strand

The hair is broken into 2 partsThe hair is broken into 2 parts

- the - the RootRoot is the part of the hair is the part of the hair located below the surface of the skinlocated below the surface of the skin

- the - the ShaftShaft is the portion of the is the portion of the hair that projects above the skinhair that projects above the skin

Structure of the RootStructure of the Root

The Root is broken into 5 parts:The Root is broken into 5 parts:

1-Follicule1-Follicule

2-Bulb2-Bulb

3- Dermal Papilla3- Dermal Papilla

4-Arrector Pili4-Arrector Pili

5-Sebaceous Glands5-Sebaceous Glands

FollicleFollicle

The tube-like The tube-like depression or pocket depression or pocket in the skin or scalp in the skin or scalp that contains the that contains the root.root.

It extends downward It extends downward through the through the epidermis (outer epidermis (outer layer of the skin) into layer of the skin) into the dermis ( the inner the dermis ( the inner layer of the skin)layer of the skin)

Hair BulbHair Bulb

The lowest area or The lowest area or part of the hair part of the hair strand. It is the strand. It is the thickened, club-thickened, club-shaped structure shaped structure that forms the hair that forms the hair root. The lower root. The lower part of the hair part of the hair blub fits over and blub fits over and covers the dermal covers the dermal papilla.papilla.

Dermal PapillaDermal Papilla

A small cone-shaped A small cone-shaped elevation located at elevation located at the base of the hair the base of the hair follicle that fits into follicle that fits into the hair bulb. The the hair bulb. The dermal papilla dermal papilla contains the blood contains the blood and nerve supply and nerve supply that provides the that provides the nutrients needed for nutrients needed for hair growth.hair growth.

Arrector PiliArrector Pili

A minute, A minute, involuntary muscle involuntary muscle fiber in the skin fiber in the skin inserted in the base inserted in the base of the hair follicle. of the hair follicle. Fear or cold causes Fear or cold causes it to contract, it to contract, which makes the which makes the hair stand up hair stand up straight resulting straight resulting in “goose bumps”.in “goose bumps”.

Sebaceous GlandSebaceous Gland

The oil glands of The oil glands of the skin, the skin, connected to the connected to the hair follicles. The hair follicles. The sebaceous glands sebaceous glands secrete an oily secrete an oily substance called substance called sebum,sebum, which which lubricates the hair lubricates the hair and skin.and skin.

Structure of the ShaftStructure of the Shaft

The Shaft is broken into 3 parts:The Shaft is broken into 3 parts:

-Cuticle-Cuticle

- Cortex- Cortex

-Medulla-Medulla

CuticleCuticle

The outermost layer The outermost layer of the hairof the hair

It consist of scale like It consist of scale like cells that over lap like cells that over lap like shingles on a roof.shingles on a roof.

A healthy cuticle A healthy cuticle layer protects the layer protects the hair from penetration hair from penetration and prevents damage and prevents damage to hair fibersto hair fibers

CortexCortex The middle layer of the The middle layer of the

hairhair About 90% of the About 90% of the

strength of the hair strength of the hair comes from the cortexcomes from the cortex

Hair elasticity and color Hair elasticity and color structure is located in structure is located in within the cortex.within the cortex.

Hair-coloring, wet-Hair-coloring, wet-styling, thermal styling, styling, thermal styling, permanent waving, and permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing chemical hair relaxing all take place in the all take place in the cortex.cortex.

MedullaMedulla

The inner most layer of the hairThe inner most layer of the hair It is quite common for very fine and It is quite common for very fine and

naturally blonde hair to entirely lack naturally blonde hair to entirely lack a medullaa medulla

Generally only thick course hair Generally only thick course hair contains a medullacontains a medulla

Chemical Structure of HairChemical Structure of Hair“The Proteins”“The Proteins”

Hair is composed of proteins that Hair is composed of proteins that grow from cells originating within grow from cells originating within the hair folliclethe hair follicle

Hair is approximately 91% proteinHair is approximately 91% protein

Amino AcidsAmino Acids

Amino Acids are Amino Acids are the units of the units of structure in structure in proteinprotein

They are linked They are linked together end to together end to endend

Peptide BondPeptide Bond

The bond that that The bond that that joins amino acids to joins amino acids to each other is called each other is called a peptide bonda peptide bond

A long chain of A long chain of amino acids linked amino acids linked together by peptide together by peptide bonds is called a bonds is called a polypeptide chainpolypeptide chain

Chemical Structure of HairChemical Structure of Hair“The Bonds”“The Bonds”

The Cortex, middle layer of hair , is The Cortex, middle layer of hair , is made up of millions of polypeptide made up of millions of polypeptide chainschains

Polypeptide chains are crossed-linked Polypeptide chains are crossed-linked together by 3 different types of side together by 3 different types of side bonds; hydrogen bonds, salt bonds, and bonds; hydrogen bonds, salt bonds, and disulfide bondsdisulfide bonds

These side bonds hold the hair fibers These side bonds hold the hair fibers together and account for the incredible together and account for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hairstrength and elasticity of human hair

Hydrogen BondHydrogen Bond

Physical side bond that is easily Physical side bond that is easily broken by water or heatbroken by water or heat

Although individual hydrogen bonds Although individual hydrogen bonds are very weak, there are so many of are very weak, there are so many of them that they account for about 1/3 them that they account for about 1/3 of the hairs overall strengthof the hairs overall strength

Salt BondSalt Bond

Also physical side bond, but is Also physical side bond, but is broken by changes in pHbroken by changes in pH

Salt bonds are easily broken by Salt bonds are easily broken by strong alkaline or acidic solutions strong alkaline or acidic solutions and also account for 1/3 of the hairs and also account for 1/3 of the hairs overall strengthoverall strength

Disulfide BondDisulfide Bond

A chemical side bond that differs greatly A chemical side bond that differs greatly from physical hydrogen or salt bondsfrom physical hydrogen or salt bonds

Disulfide bonds join sulfur atoms of two Disulfide bonds join sulfur atoms of two neighboring cysteine amino acids to neighboring cysteine amino acids to create cystinecreate cystine

There are far fewer than the physical There are far fewer than the physical bonds, but they are stronger and account bonds, but they are stronger and account for another 1/3 of the hairs overall for another 1/3 of the hairs overall strength strength

Hair PigmentHair PigmentMelaninMelanin

All natural hair color is the result of All natural hair color is the result of the pigment located within the the pigment located within the cortexcortex

Melanin is the tiny grains of pigment Melanin is the tiny grains of pigment in the cortex that give natural color in the cortex that give natural color to the hairto the hair

Two different types of melanin are Two different types of melanin are eumelanin and pheomelanineumelanin and pheomelanin

EumelaninEumelanin

Provides brown Provides brown and black color to and black color to hairhair

PheomelaninPheomelanin

Provides natural Provides natural hair colors from hair colors from red and ginger to red and ginger to yellow/blonde yellow/blonde tonestones

Haircolor vs Hair ColorHaircolor vs Hair Color

Hair Color refers to the color of hair Hair Color refers to the color of hair created by naturecreated by nature

Haircolor is the term used in the industry Haircolor is the term used in the industry to refer to artificial haircoloring productsto refer to artificial haircoloring products

Natural Haircolor is the ratio of Natural Haircolor is the ratio of eumelanin to pheomelanin along with the eumelanin to pheomelanin along with the total number and size of pigment total number and size of pigment granulesgranules

Grey Hair is caused by the absence of Grey Hair is caused by the absence of melaninmelanin

Hair AnalysisHair AnalysisWave Pattern and Wave Pattern and

TendenciesTendencies Hair texture is the thickness or Hair texture is the thickness or

diameter of the individual hair diameter of the individual hair strandstrand

Hair texture can be classified as Hair texture can be classified as course, medium and finecourse, medium and fine

Hair TextureHair Texture

Course hair texture has the largest Course hair texture has the largest diameter and has a stronger structurediameter and has a stronger structure

Medium hair texture is the most Medium hair texture is the most common and is the standard to which common and is the standard to which other hair is comparedother hair is compared

Fine hair has the smallest diameter and Fine hair has the smallest diameter and is more fragile and easier to processis more fragile and easier to process

Hair DensityHair Density

Measures the number of individual Measures the number of individual hair strands on 1 square inch of the hair strands on 1 square inch of the scalp. The average is 2200 hair per scalp. The average is 2200 hair per square inch and 100,000 totalsquare inch and 100,000 total

Low density = thin hairLow density = thin hair Medium density = Average or normal Medium density = Average or normal

numbers of hairs per square inchnumbers of hairs per square inch High density = thick hair or a high High density = thick hair or a high

numbers per square inchnumbers per square inch

Hair PorosityHair Porosity

Porosity is the ability of the hair to Porosity is the ability of the hair to absorb moistureabsorb moisture

Hair with low porosity is considered Hair with low porosity is considered resistant hair it requires more resistant hair it requires more alkaline solution to raise the cuticle alkaline solution to raise the cuticle for processingfor processing

Hair with average porosity is Hair with average porosity is considered normal hairconsidered normal hair

Types of PorosityTypes of Porosity

ResistantResistant- cuticle - cuticle lays close to hair lays close to hair shaft; absorbs shaft; absorbs slowly and requires slowly and requires longer processing longer processing time time

Good PorosityGood Porosity

Cuticle slightly Cuticle slightly raised from shaft raised from shaft and absorbs and absorbs moisture and/or moisture and/or chemicals in chemicals in average timeaverage time

Normal Hair that Normal Hair that can absorb can absorb moisture in moisture in average timeaverage time

Overly Porous HairOverly Porous Hair

Overly porous is often the result of Overly porous is often the result of over processingover processing

Hair is damaged, dry, fragile, and Hair is damaged, dry, fragile, and brittlebrittle

Chemical services require less Chemical services require less alkaline solutions with a lower pH to alkaline solutions with a lower pH to prevent additional over processingprevent additional over processing

Damaged, Over Damaged, Over processed Hairprocessed Hair

Hair is Dry, Brittle Hair is Dry, Brittle and Fragileand Fragile

Until damaged hair Until damaged hair is cut do not permis cut do not perm

Extreme PorosityExtreme Porosity

Use a lower Ph Use a lower Ph solutionsolution

Proceed with Proceed with CautionCaution

ElasticityElasticity The ability of hair to The ability of hair to

stretch and return to its stretch and return to its original length without original length without breakingbreaking

Normal Elasticity in hair Normal Elasticity in hair will stretch up to 50% of will stretch up to 50% of its original length when its original length when wetwet

Low Elasticity is hair Low Elasticity is hair that is brittle and breaks that is brittle and breaks easily; will not hold a easily; will not hold a curl and is the result of curl and is the result of weak side bondsweak side bonds

Growth PatternsGrowth Patterns

Hair Stream is hair flowing in the Hair Stream is hair flowing in the same direction; result of follicles same direction; result of follicles sloping in the same direction. Two sloping in the same direction. Two stream flowing in opposite directions stream flowing in opposite directions create a natural partcreate a natural part

Whorl is hair that forms a circular Whorl is hair that forms a circular pattern as on the crownpattern as on the crown

Cowlick is a tuft of hair that stands Cowlick is a tuft of hair that stands straight upstraight up

Dry Hair and ScalpDry Hair and Scalp

Dry hair in scalp is Dry hair in scalp is caused by inactive caused by inactive sebaceous gland sebaceous gland and is aggravated and is aggravated by dry winter or by dry winter or desert climatedesert climate

The lack of natural The lack of natural oils leads to a flaky oils leads to a flaky scalp and hair scalp and hair appears dull, dry appears dull, dry and lifelessand lifeless

Oily Hair and ScalpOily Hair and Scalp

Caused by Caused by overactive overactive sebaceous gland sebaceous gland and characterized and characterized by greasy buildup by greasy buildup on the scalp and on the scalp and an oily coating on an oily coating on the hairthe hair

Hair GrowthHair GrowthTypes of HairTypes of Hair

There are 2 main types of hair found There are 2 main types of hair found on the body; Vellus (or Lanugo) and on the body; Vellus (or Lanugo) and Terminal hairTerminal hair

Vellus is short, fine, downy, Vellus is short, fine, downy, unpigmented hair covering most of the unpigmented hair covering most of the body except palms and soles of the feetbody except palms and soles of the feet

Terminal hair is long, think pigmented Terminal hair is long, think pigmented hair found on the scalp, legs, arms and hair found on the scalp, legs, arms and bodies of males and femalesbodies of males and females

3 Growth Cycles of Hair3 Growth Cycles of Hair

AnagenAnagen is the growing phase is the growing phase Average growth is about 2 inches per Average growth is about 2 inches per

monthmonth 90% of hair is growing at one time90% of hair is growing at one time Grows for a period of from two to six Grows for a period of from two to six

yearsyears Hair grows faster on women than menHair grows faster on women than men Grows faster between ages of 15-30 and Grows faster between ages of 15-30 and

slows sharply after age 50slows sharply after age 50

CatagenCatagen

Transition phase, ends the growth Transition phase, ends the growth phase and last only one to two weeksphase and last only one to two weeks

Follicle canal shrinks and detaches Follicle canal shrinks and detaches from the dermal papillafrom the dermal papilla

Hair bulb disappears and the Hair bulb disappears and the shrunken root end forms a rounded shrunken root end forms a rounded clubclub

TelogenTelogen

Resting phaseResting phase Follicle begins a 3 to Follicle begins a 3 to

6 month phase of 6 month phase of restingresting

About 10% of hair is About 10% of hair is in Telogen phase at in Telogen phase at one timeone time

The cycle then The cycle then begins again, growth begins again, growth cycle repeats itself cycle repeats itself every 4 to 5 yearsevery 4 to 5 years

6 Hair Growth Myths6 Hair Growth Myths

Myth #1 questionMyth #1 question

Clipping, shaving, Clipping, shaving, trimming, and trimming, and cutting makes hair cutting makes hair grow faster ?grow faster ?

FactFact

They have no effect on hair growthThey have no effect on hair growth

Myth #2Myth #2

Scalp massage Scalp massage increases hair increases hair growthgrowth

FactFact

No evidence to indicate this is true. No evidence to indicate this is true. Minoxidil and Finasteride are the Minoxidil and Finasteride are the only treatments that have been only treatments that have been proven to increase hair growth and proven to increase hair growth and are approved for that purpose by the are approved for that purpose by the FDAFDA

Myth #3Myth #3

Grey hair is Grey hair is coarser and more coarser and more resistant than resistant than pigmented hair?pigmented hair?

FactFact

Other than lack of pigment, grey Other than lack of pigment, grey hair is exactly the same as hair is exactly the same as pigmented hair. It is not resistant pigmented hair. It is not resistant because it is gray, and is not more because it is gray, and is not more resistant than pigmented hair on the resistant than pigmented hair on the same persons headsame persons head

Myth #4Myth #4

Amount of natural Amount of natural curl is determined curl is determined by racial by racial background?background?

FactFact

Anyone of any race can have straight Anyone of any race can have straight or extremely curly hairor extremely curly hair

Myth #5Myth #5

Hair with round cross-section is Hair with round cross-section is straight; hair with oval cross-section straight; hair with oval cross-section is wavy; hair with flat cross-section is wavy; hair with flat cross-section is curly?is curly?

TruthTruth

Cross-sections of straight hair tend Cross-sections of straight hair tend to be round and curlier hair tends to to be round and curlier hair tends to be more oval, but cross-sections of be more oval, but cross-sections of hair almost any shape, including hair almost any shape, including triangular; the shape of the cross-triangular; the shape of the cross-section does not always relate to the section does not always relate to the amount of curl or the shape of the amount of curl or the shape of the folliclefollicle

Androgenetic AlopeciaAndrogenetic Alopecia

Caused by a combination of Caused by a combination of heredity, hormones and age causes heredity, hormones and age causes progressive shrinking or progressive shrinking or miniaturization of terminal hair, miniaturization of terminal hair, converting it to vellus hair. Known converting it to vellus hair. Known as male pattern baldnessas male pattern baldness

Affects 40 million men in USAffects 40 million men in US Affects 20 million women in USAffects 20 million women in US

Alopecia AreataAlopecia Areata

Sudden loss of hair in round or Sudden loss of hair in round or irregular patches; may occur on irregular patches; may occur on scalp or anywhere else on body. Its scalp or anywhere else on body. Its highly unpredictable and affects highly unpredictable and affects almost 5 million people in the USalmost 5 million people in the US

Postpartum AlopeciaPostpartum Alopecia

Temporary hair loss at conclusion of Temporary hair loss at conclusion of pregnancy. Growth cycle generally pregnancy. Growth cycle generally returns to normal within one year returns to normal within one year after the baby is deliveredafter the baby is delivered

7 Disorders of the Hair7 Disorders of the Hair

Canities- Congenitial canities is grey Canities- Congenitial canities is grey hair that is at birth. Acquired hair that is at birth. Acquired canities is both premature and grey canities is both premature and grey hair at old age.hair at old age.

Ringed Hair is alternate bands of Ringed Hair is alternate bands of gray and dark hairgray and dark hair

Hypertrichosis is the growth of Hypertrichosis is the growth of terminal hair in areas of the body terminal hair in areas of the body that normally only grows vellus hairthat normally only grows vellus hair

7 Disorders of the Hair7 Disorders of the Hair

Trichoptilosis- split endsTrichoptilosis- split ends Trichorrehxis Nodosa- knotted hair; a Trichorrehxis Nodosa- knotted hair; a

dry brittle condition including dry brittle condition including formation of nodular swellings along formation of nodular swellings along the hair shaftthe hair shaft

Monilethrix-beaded hair; hair breaks Monilethrix-beaded hair; hair breaks between the beads or nodesbetween the beads or nodes

Fragilitas Crinium- brittle hair that Fragilitas Crinium- brittle hair that causes splittingcauses splitting

Disorders of the ScalpDisorders of the Scalp

Dandruff- Dandruff- pityriasis= small pityriasis= small white scales that white scales that usually appear on usually appear on the scalp and hair the scalp and hair there are 2 types there are 2 types of Pityriasisof Pityriasis

PityriasisPityriasis Dry Type; characterized Dry Type; characterized

by itchy scalp and small by itchy scalp and small white scales attached to white scales attached to the scalp or scattered the scalp or scattered loosely in the hair. loosely in the hair. Sluggish scalp is caused Sluggish scalp is caused by poor circulation, lack by poor circulation, lack of nerve stimulation, of nerve stimulation, improper diet, improper diet, emotional and glandular emotional and glandular disturbances, and poor disturbances, and poor personal hygienepersonal hygiene

PityriasisPityriasis

Greasy or Wax Greasy or Wax Type; scales Type; scales become mixed with become mixed with sebum, causing sebum, causing them to stick to them to stick to scalp in patches; scalp in patches; medical treatment medical treatment is advisable is advisable

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Both forms are Both forms are contagious and can contagious and can be spread by the be spread by the common use of common use of implements. implements. Practicing approved Practicing approved sanitation and sanitation and disinfection disinfection procedures will procedures will prevent the spread prevent the spread of this conditionof this condition

Vegetable Parasitic Vegetable Parasitic InfectionsInfections

Tinea is the Tinea is the technical term for technical term for Ringworm. It is Ringworm. It is caused by vegetable caused by vegetable parasites and is parasites and is highly contagious. It highly contagious. It begins with a small, begins with a small, reddened patch of reddened patch of little blisters. You little blisters. You should refer client should refer client to physicianto physician


Tinea Capitis is ringworm of the Tinea Capitis is ringworm of the scalp and is characterized by red scalp and is characterized by red papules or spots at opening of hair papules or spots at opening of hair follicles causing hair to breakfollicles causing hair to break


Tinea Favosa is Honeycomb Tinea Favosa is Honeycomb ringworm and is characterized by ringworm and is characterized by dry, sulfur-yellow, cup-like crust on dry, sulfur-yellow, cup-like crust on scalp called scutula; it gives off an scalp called scutula; it gives off an odor; scars from favus anr pink or odor; scars from favus anr pink or white, shiny bald patches. Its very white, shiny bald patches. Its very contagious and should be referred to contagious and should be referred to a physiciana physician

Animal Parasitic Animal Parasitic InfectionsInfections

Scabies “itch mite”- highly Scabies “itch mite”- highly contagious and caused by itch mite; contagious and caused by itch mite; vesicles and pustules from the vesicles and pustules from the irritation of the parasites or from irritation of the parasites or from scratching the affected areascratching the affected area

Animal Parasitic Animal Parasitic InfectionsInfections

Pediculosis Capitis Pediculosis Capitis is a contagious is a contagious condition caused by condition caused by head lice infesting head lice infesting the hair and scalp; the hair and scalp; itching occurs and itching occurs and resultant scratching resultant scratching can cause infection. can cause infection. Refer to a physicianRefer to a physician

Staphylococci InfectionsStaphylococci Infections

Furuncle or boil- an infection of the Furuncle or boil- an infection of the hair follicle that produces constant hair follicle that produces constant pain and a pustule perforated by pain and a pustule perforated by hairhair

Carbuncle- an inflammation of the Carbuncle- an inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue caused by subcutaneous tissue caused by staphylococci; similar to a furuncle staphylococci; similar to a furuncle but larger. Refer both to a physicianbut larger. Refer both to a physician

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Trichology