(rg)

Travel information from A to Z

The Way of St. James through Navarre

The Camino Francés:through Rioja

through Castile/León

through Galicia

The Way to Finisterre, Index

Heading to Boadilla del Camino (ss)

Volume 23e

Outdoor GuidebookRaimund Joos

Camino de SantiagoSt. Jean - Santiago - Finisterre

Copyright Conrad Stein Publishing GmbH.All rights reserved.

Any reproduction or redistribution including reprints, translations, map pictureextractions, symbol copying, use of electronic data carriers, uploads to the Internet

(or other electronic media), without prior written permission of the author, is prohibited and punishable by Law.

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and other specifications) naturally cannot be given by the publisher or the authorand, therefore, product liability cannot be assumed.

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This Outdoor Guidebook has 288 pages, 109 color pictures, 71 color map extracts, 52 color elevation profiles, and 1 color general map.

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This book is available in bookstores and many outdoor stores, and can be ordered online or directly from the publisher.

Camino de Santiago

Outdoor Guidebook from the series “The Way is the Goal”, Volume 23e

ISBN 978-3-86686-517-4 1st Edition 2016

© BASIC KNOWLEDGE FOR OUTDOORS, THE WAY IS THE GOAL, AND WANDERLUST BOOKS ARE

COPYRIGHTED NAMES OF BOOK SERIES’ FROM CONRAD STEIN PUBLISHING

Also available as an e-book (ISBN 978-3-86920-011-8).

This Outdoor guidebook was planned and editorially created by Conrad Stein Publishing GmbH, Kiefernstraße 6, 59514 Welver, Germanyt 00 49 (0)23 84/96 39 12, f 00 49 (0)23 84/96 39 13,E-Mail: info@conrad-stein-verlag.de, Internet: http://www.conrad-stein-verlag.de

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Text: Raimund JoosPictures: Raimund Joos (rj), Silvia Schubert (ss), Christian Stadler (cs), Ingeborg Käthner (ik), Stefan Vossemer (sv), Donald Walter (dw), Gerhard Treiber (gt), Reinhold Großelohmann (rg)Maps: Heide SchwinnTranslation: Anke Weinandy, Rip DylanEditor: Angela Sánchez-MartínLayout: Amrei RisseProduction: Werbedruck GmbH Horst Schreckhase

Cover picture: Bridge of Puente la Reina (© Jean F. Walhain)

5

About the Author, the Translators and Editors 11

Prefaces 12Important Preliminary Observations / For the Use of this Outdoor Guide! 15

Introduction 18

Travel Information from A to Z 28

The Way of St. James through Navarre 48The Camino Aragonés 50Travel to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port 808.6 50Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port - Huntto 5.4 km 803.2 54Huntto - Orisson 2.3 km 800.9 56Orisson - Roncesvalles 18.9 km 782.0 57(Bicycle-)Alternative: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port - Roncesvalles 28.7 km 59Roncesvalles - Espinal 7.0 km 775.0 61Espinal - Viscarret (4,9 km) - Zubiri 15.7 km 759.3 62Zubiri - Larrasoaña 5.6 km 753.7 65Larrasoaña - Zabaldika 7.2 km 746.5 66

Content

Accommodation 30Calling and Internet 34Climate and Travel Time 34Cyclists 35Dogs 37Drinking Water 37Emergency Hotline 38Equipment 38First Aid 41Food and Drinks 42Holidays 43

Language 43Medical Supply 43Money 44Mail 44Shopping 44Signposts and Way Directions 45Stages 46St. James Associations

(Pilgrims’ Associations) 46Up-to-date information / new edition 47

History and Presence: The Pilgrimage to Santiago 20

Reasons for a Pilgrimage 21The Scallop 23The Catholic Pilgrims Credential 24

The Compostelas and Different Pilgrims’ Performance Certificates 24

The Pilgrim’s Staff 27The Holy Year 27

Zabaldika - Arre/Villava 3.7 km 742.8 67Villava - Pamplona 3.8 km 739.0 68Pamplona - Cizur Menor 5.1 km 733.9 74Cizur Menor - Zariquiegui 6.5 km 727.4 74Zariquiegui - Uterga 6.0 km 721.4 75Uterga - Muruzábal - Eunate - Obanos 7.1 km 714.3 76Obanos - Puente la Reina 3.1 km 711.2 78Puente la Reina - Mañeru 4.3 km 706.9 81Mañeru - Cirauqui 2.8 km 704.1 81Cirauqui - Lorca 6.1 km 698.0 82Lorca - Villatuerta 4.8 km 693.2 83Villatuerta - Estella/Ayegui 5.6 km 687.6 84Estella/Ayegui - Villamayor de Monjardín 8.1 km 679.5 86Villamayor de Monjardín - Los Arcos 12.5 km 667.0 87Los Arcos - Sansol/Torres del Río 8.0 km 659.0 89Torres del Río - Viana 11.0 km 648.0 90Viana - Logroño 10.0 km 638.0 92

The Camino Francés through Rioja 94Logroño - Navarrete 12.4 km 625.6 97Navarrete - Ventosa 7.0 km 618.6 99Ventosa - Nájera 10.3 km 608.3 100Nájera - Azofra 6.4 km 601.9 103Azofra - Cirueña (Town Entrance) 9.1 km 592.8 104Cirueña - Santo Domingo de la Calzada 7.3 km 585.5 104Santo Domingo de la Calzada - Grañón 6.8 km 578.7 108Grañón - Redecilla del Camino 4.0 km 574.7 109

The Camino Francés through Castile/León 110Redecilla del Camino - Viloria 3.8 km 570.9 111Viloria - Villamayor 3.2 km 567.7 112Villamayor - Belorado 5.4 km 562.3 112Belorado - Tosantos 4.7 km 557.6 114Tosantos - Espinosa del Camino - Villafranca Montes de Oca 7,6 km 550.0 115Villafranca Montes de Oca - San Juan de Ortega 12.5 km 537.5 117San Juan de Ortega - Agés 3.7 km 533.8 119

7

Agés - Atapuerca 2.6 km 531.2 119Atapuerca - Orbaneja de Ríopico (Highway Crossing) 9.6 km 521.6 121Orbaneja de Ríopico (Highway Crossing) - Burgos 11.0 km 510.6 123Burgos - Tardajos 11.1 km 499.5 130Tardajos - Rabé de las Calzadas 2.4 km 497.1 131Rabé de las Calzadas - Hornillos del Camino 7.9 km 489.2 132Hornillos del Camino - Hontanas 11.0 km 478.2 133Hontanas - San Antón - Castrojeriz 9.8 km 468.4 135Castrojeriz - San Nicolás 9.5 km - Itero de la Vega 11.5 km 456.9 137Itero de la Vega - Boadilla del Camino 8.8 km 448.1 139Boadilla del Camino - Frómista 5.9 km 442.2 140Frómista - Población de Campos 3.5 km 438.7 142Recommended side route:

Población de Campos - Villalcázar de Sirga 11.5 km 427.2 143Población de Campos - Villarmentero 6.1 km 144Villarmentero - Villalcázar de Sirga 4.6 km 145Villalcázar de Sirga - Carrión de los Condes 5.5 km 421.7 145Carrión de los Condes - Calzadilla de la Cueza 18.0 km 403.7 147Calzadilla de la Cueza - Ledigos 6.6 km 397.1 150Ledigos - Terradillos de los Templarios 3.5 km 393.6 150Terradillos de los Templarios - Moratinos 3.4 km 390.2 151Moratinos - San Nicolás 2.7 km 387.5 151San Nicolás - Sahagún 7.4 km 380.1 152Sahagún - Split-off to Calzada del Coto 4.3 km 375.8 153Recommended Side Route (Calzada Romana) Part 1:

Split-off to Calzada del Coto - Calzadilla de los Hermanillos 9.2 km 154Recommended Side Route (Calzada Romana) Part 2:

Calzadilla de los Hermanillos - Reliegos 18.5 km 156Main Way Part 1:

Split-off to Calzada del Coto - Bercianos del Real Camino 6.2 km 369.6 158Main Way Part 2:

Bercianos del Real Camino - El Burgo Ranero 7.8 km 361.8 158Main Way Part 3:

El Burgo Ranero - Reliegos 12.5 km 349.3 159Reliegos - Mansilla de las Mulas 6.6 km 342.7 160Mansilla de las Mulas - Puente Villarente 6.2 km 336.5 160Puente Villarente - Arcahueja 4.3 km 332.2 162Arcahueja - León (Cathedral) 8.1 km 324.1 162León (Cathedral) - La Virgen del Camino (Refuge/Junction) 7.9 km 316.2 169

8 Inhalt

Inhalt 9

Way Alternative - Part 1: Junction La Virgen del Camino - Villar de Mazarife 13.8 km 302.4 170

Way Alternative - Part 2: Villar de Mazarife - Villavante 9.9 km 292.5 172Way Alternative - Part 3: Villavante - Hospital de Órbigo 5.0 km 287.5 172Way Alternative :

Junction La Virgen del Camino - Hospital de Órbigo 25.3 km 173Hospital de Órbigo - Villares de Órbigo 2.6 km 284.9 176Villares de Órbigo - Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias 2.6 km 282.3 177Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias - Astorga 12.8 km 269.5 177Astorga - Murias de Rechivaldo 4.5 km 265.0 179Murias de Rechivaldo - Santa Catalina de Somoza 4.4 km 260.6 180Santa Catalina de Somoza - El Ganso 4.6 km 256.0 182El Ganso - Rabanal del Camino 7.2 km 248.8 183Rabanal del Camino - Foncebadón 5.9 km 242.9 184Foncebadón - Manjarín - El Acebo 11.1 km 231.8 186El Acebo - Riego de Ambrós 3.0 km 228.8 188Riego de Ambrós - Molinaseca (Town Exit) 5.5 km 223.3 189Molinaseca (Town Exit) - Ponferrada 6.9 km 216.4 191Ponferrada - Columbrianos 5.0 km 211.4 194Columbrianos - Camponaraya 5.1 km 206.3 194Camponaraya - Cacabelos/Pieros 7.7 km 198.6 195Cacabelos/Pieros - Villafranca del Bierzo 7.4 km 191.2 197Recommended Side Route:

“Camino Duro” Villafranca del Bierzo - Trabadelo 11.9 km 201Main Way: Villafranca del Bierzo - Pereje 5.3 km 185.9 203Pereje - Trabadelo 4.7 km 181.2 204Trabadelo - Portela/Ambasmestas 5.4 km 175.8 204Ambasmestas - Vega de Valcarce 1.7 km 174.1 205Vega de Valcarce - Ruitelán 2.2 km 171.9 206Ruitelán - Herrerías 1.4 km 170.5 207Herrerías - La Faba 4.4 km 166.1 207La Faba - Laguna de Castilla 2.3 km 163.8 208Laguna de Castilla - O Cebreiro 2.7 km 161.1 208

The Camino Francés through Galicia 211O Cebreiro - Hospital da Condesa 5.5 km 155.6 213Hospital da Condesa - Alto do Poio 3.2 km 152.4 214Alto do Poio - Fonfría 3.5 km 148.9 214Fonfría - Filloval 5.7 km 143.2 215

Filloval - Triacastela 4.1 km 139.1 216Way Alternative Part 1: Triacastela - Calvor - San Mamede 14.7 km 124.4 218Way Alternative Part 2: San Mamede - Sarria 4.5 km 119.9 220Way Alternative Part 1: Triacastela - San Cristovo do Real/Lusío 4.4 km 222Way Alternative Part 2: San Cristovo do Real/Lusío - Samos 5.8 km 223Way Alternative Part 3: Samos – San Mamede 10.8 km 224Sarria - Barbadelo 4.3 km 115.6 225Barbadelo - Marzán -Morgade - Ferreiros 9.8 km 105.8 226Ferreiros - Mercadoiro 3.6 km 102.2 228Mercadoiro - Portomarin 5.6 km 96.6 228Portomarín - Gonzar 8.1 km 88.5 231Gonzar - Hospital da Cruz 3.8 km 84.7 232Hospital da Cruz - Ventas de Narón 1.5 km 83.2 233Ventas de Narón - Ligonde/Airexe 4.3 km 78.9 234Airexe - Palas de Rei 8.0 km 70.9 234Palas de Rei - San Xulián/Ponte Campaña/Casanova 5.8 km 65.1 237Casanova - Melide 9.6 km 55.5 238Melide - Boente 5.7 km 49.8 240Boente - Ribadiso (Town Exit) 6.5 km 43.3 242Ribadiso - Arzúa (Town Exit) 2.5 km 40.8 242Arzúa (Town Exit) - Salceda 11.5 km 29.3 244Salceda - Santa Irene 5.0 km 24.3 246Santa Irene - Junction Pedrouzo - Pedrouzo (Community Arca) 3.1 km 21.2 247Junction Pedrouzo - Monte do Gozo 16.5 km 4.7 249Monte do Gozo - Santiago de Compostela 4.7 km 0.0 251Return Travel 263

The Way to Finisterre 93.5 264Santiago de Compostela - Negreira 23.0 km 70.5 267Negreira - Vilaserío 13.3 km 57.2 270Vilaserío - Santa Mariña 8.6 km 48.6 272Santa Mariña - Ponte Olveira - Olveiroa 12.4 km 36.2 272Olveiroa - Logoso 3.8 km 32.4 274Logoso - Cée (Town Exit) 16.9 km 15.5 274Cée - Corcubión 2.2 km 13.3 277Corcubión - Fisterra 9.8 km 3.5 278Fisterra - Cape Finisterre 3.5 km 0.0 282

Index 284

10 Inhalt

AccommodationHotels, Boarding Houses and Guest housesOn the Way you will find many hotels, hostels, (smaller hotels) and boarding houses.A detailed description of all the possibilities would burst the seams of this pilgrims’guide. Under the symbol H you will find hints where you can inquire for accommo-dation, and approximately how high the price is. However, the prices can change veryquickly and drastically, depending on the season. In general, the tourist informationoffices are always the appropriate place to consult. The costs normally start at € 20per person, and occasionally slightly less.

The Web page www.gronze.com, so far only in Spanish, offers in addition to thedescription of refuges the addresses and prices of boarding houses and hotels on theWay to internet affined pilgrims. The link www.booking.com also leads you to theirdescriptions but with different language options on the upper menu bar. Here you getan (airbrushed) insight into the accommodation, and can book it. www.gronze.com www.booking.com

Pilgrims’ Refuges – the alberguesThe typical pilgrim’s accommodations are the pilgrims’ refuges, of which there areabout 260 just on the main route alone. They are marked in this pilgrim guide withJ; emergency accommodations, on the other hand, are marked withq. Informationon pilgrims’ refuges is essential for St. James pilgrims and accordingly takes con -siderable space in this pilgrims’ guide. Should you wish to get in contact with them via e-Mail or visit their website(when available), the following sites can be very helpful: www.gronze.com and www.caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergues. However, you should not place toomuch credence on the information presented there as the source of the descriptionalso leads back to the owners, who show their property at its best. Meanwhile, someboarding houses now call themselves “pilgrim refuges”. As well, listing of the “mini-”and “pseudo-refuges” would be too numerous for this book which is why, regretfully,a choice had to be made on standard criteria for inclusion in this guide reflecting general consensus on the Way. Refuges, listed in this guide, are legally recognizedaccommodations which can daily host a minimum of 10 pilgrims for a regular accommodation rate of no more than € 13, and which are located a maximum 500 mdistance from the Way. Exceptions are made for locations in France and on routes with-out many refuges, as well as for special reason.

The upper limit of € 13 per pilgrim per night is the standard price cap. Consider,as well, that at different locations of the Way you can get a single room in a boarding

30 Travel Information from A to Z

house for merely € 15. Additional criteria for the listing of a refuge in this guideinclude transparent pricing as well as accessibility. Openness of the refuge to every pilgrim as well as the author’s (preferably) surprise research visits are important factors. The pilgrim refuges can be roughly divided into three groups.

Public RefugesPublic refuges (sp: albergue municipal/albergue público), listed in this book are oftennamed “community refuges” or “city refuges”. You can only stay for the night if youhave a pilgrim’s credential and you walked the whole way from the last town you stayedat, carrying your own backpack. You can usually only stay for one night unless you areill, in which case they may allow a few more nights. The beds are issued at arrival ofpilgrims.

Some public refuges are run like parish refuges (> below), based on donations.Most, however, ask for a contribution of about € 6. Especially Galicia has a multitudeof public refuges (sp: albergue Xunta de Galicia) which are described in greater detailon page 214. Many public refuges are relatively simply-equipped, as reflected in theirprice, but this does not mean that they cannot provide good shelter to a modest pilgrim.

Travel Information from A to Z 31

Refuge of the monastery San Julián in Samos (rg)

Parish Refuges and Other Parish Facilities The parish refuges (sp: albergue parroquial) generally follow the concept of the above-described public refuge; however, are usually financed through donations of pilgrims,which should correspond to the value offered. Some, however, do ask for a firmamount for the overnight stay. They are naturally also open for non-Christian pilgrims.Many parish refuges can veritably honor the claim of true charity; and they are, in myopinion, an indispensable heart of the Way, whose early Christian principles must befostered and vigilantly protected (> p. 109). This is especially pertinent to my con-cern that on the Way of St. James an increasing number of parish facilities are clever-ly used in various ways under religious guise; ultimately to realize financial interestsand gain power. Some parish refuges are under the leadership of hospitaleros who arelinked to the controversial, and in Spain wide-spread, Opus Dei.

Private RefugesBy far, most refuges nowadays are in private hands and if nothing else is declared inthe particular refuge description, it is generally a private one. Refuges of this kind(sp: albergue privado) are (also) declaredly based on a commercial concept. Except fora few black sheep, these refuges are usually relatively well-equipped and frequentlyoffer quite an authentic pilgrims’ atmosphere at that. They are usually a little moreexpensive. In addition to the overnight stay in the dorm, an increasing number of private pilgrim refuges also offer individual rooms at very good rates (from € 13 perperson). The price for a simple overnight stay in a dorm normally runs between € 5and 10. In very rare cases, and especially at the beginning and end stages of the Way,an overnight stay can cost more. e Quite often, a simple breakfast and/or a dinnermenu is offered at the private refuges starting at € 8, that is in rare cases also vegetarian (< p. 42). Although one cannot judge in general, it has to be mentionedthat the choice and quality of food often cannot be compared with that of restaurants.

A growing number of private refuges, in the true sense of spiritual and life-practic-ing openness and broadening horizons of the pilgrimage, pursue innovative spiritualand/or ecological concepts and are guided by, among others, Eastern religions andphilosophies.

Refuge Rules, Equipment and ReservationIn general, refuges close between 10 pm and 11 pm to ensure restorative rest duringthe night. In the morning, pilgrims usually must have left the refuge between 7:30 amand 9 am. The seasonal opening hours differ. Some refuges are open year-round whileothers only from Easter to the end of October, or only during summer months. If youtravel in winter, be sure to check, based on information in this guide and by asking atthe last-visited refuge about which refuges are open further along the Way.

32 Travel Information from A to Z

Many refuges are led by volunteers, the so-called hospitaleros voluntarios, whothemselves have experience on the Way of St. James and have been trained in the careof pilgrims. Often you get to encounter exceptionally interesting personalities amongthem.

Hot showers are nowadays normal; and it will be separately pointed out, shouldthat not be the case. Many pilgrim refuges have kitchens that can be used to preparefood and where you often find plates and simple condiments such as salt, spices etc.Unfortunately, there are rarely plates in kitchens of Galician refuges. Often in refugesthere is the opportunity to eat together. It is not rare to see menus offered in privaterefuges. In public and especially in parish refuges there is often group cooking, pray-ing and eating under the guidance of the hospitalero. This often happens on a donation basis.

In many refuges there are j T washing machines as well as dryers. In most cases,the cost per use is € 3. Increasing numbers of refuges also offerlockers.

The @ internet can today (unfortunately) be found in nearly all refuges. TheC computer with an internet connection can be used for a fee, donation, or free. Quiteoften, the use of Wi-Fi (WLAN) is possible and, with few exceptions, free. Whenchoosing your refuge, though, consider that especially unlimited WLAN often affectsthe pilgrims’ atmosphere very negatively since there is much less direct communi cationtaking place among the pilgrims. Some alternative refuges already rid themselves oftheir WLAN because of this reason. Consider carefully if you would like to inten -tionally renounce the use of your cellphone or at least your smartphone during thetime on the Way of St. James. Also, the option of silencing your smartphone by set-ting it on flight-mode is not too bad. By doing so, you can bravely test whether youstill can live without your digital data binky respectively the internet, or are alreadyaddicted to it. The Way of St. James actually offers an ideal opportunity to renouncetechnology and instead experience and once again enjoy the difference between a virtual and real tangible existence (> p. 22).

Reservation of beds is generally only possible in private refuges as well as in youthhostels (rarely described in this guide), student homes, and boarding houses. On theother hand, public refuges often described as “urban” or “municipal” refuges, as wellas parish refuges, basically do not allow reservations. Only in rare cases when therefuge does not follow that rule, will it be explicitly marked with the sign E. Whetherthe refuges will actually honor the reservations and which exact seasonal and deadlineconditions apply, unfortunately cannot be further detailed in the individual refugedescription due to space limitations in the book.

Travel Information from A to Z 33

CampingBecause a tent greatly increases the weight of luggage, the refuge is the typical accom-modation for St. James pilgrims. Besides that, the touristy campgrounds are locatedtoo far from the Way, and there are only a few “pilgrim-suitable” or “pilgrim-friendly”campgrounds. A few of the suitable ones are attached to pilgrim refuges and thereforementioned. Those who prefer camping should consider buying a campground guide.Camping in non-designated campsites is officially forbidden in Spain.

Calling and InternetOn the Iberian Peninsula smartphones, and also the internet, are widely-used. Thanksto the cheaper roaming costs within Europe (active since 2014), costs for calling insideand outside the country have dropped dramatically, so that buying a Spanish SIM cardis barely worthwhile. For those who want to intentionally skip on smartphones(> p. 33) on the Way of St. James, you can sometimes find the good old-fashionedcoin-operated phones at different locations (e.g. bars), where you can make quiteaffordable calls as well as receive calls (with cheap prefix numbers). And, for the realemergency you will always find more than enough helpful smartphone users on theWay.

Landlines in Spain always begin with the number 9. Even if you are in the sametown, you must use that town’s prefix when dialing local numbers. Cell numbers alwaysbegin with the number 6.

Climate and Travel TimeThe best time to travel is from April to October. In April, May, and October, how ever,it can become cold, and even rain or snow in the Pyrenees. A wet climate dominatesGalicia and downpours are regularly distributed over the year, even though it rains abit less during the summer.

In July and August it can become very hot in South Navarra, Rioja, and Castille;therefore you should consider using the early morning hours for hiking. But also,because of the inner country’s high elevation, the evening hours are cool and verycomfortable for hiking.

A Castilian proverb says: “Nueve meses de invierno y tres meses de infierno”(“Nine months of winter and three months of hell”), which means that it is cold for along period of time and the summer is very hot. That saying is surely somewhat exaggerated, but the winter lasts from December to February with day- and night tem-peratures which can hover around the freezing point. It is similar in Navarra and La

34 Travel Information from A to Z

The Way of St. James through Navarre

Junior pilgrim during the crossingof the Pyrenees past Orisson (ss)

Zariquiegui - Uterga 6 km Cross the village and the Way continues along for 700 m on a narrow road. At a roadjunction, you change halfway-left onto a path (* During inclement weather and as acyclist R avoid the steep part by remaining on the narrow road for a while longeruntil you reach the Way.) The path initially increases steeply and will then widen, reaching a pilgrims’ fountain 2 (which does not always offer water) after 1.6 km, and,after another 200 m, you reach the pass summit Puerto del Perdón + 734 m(km 2.5).

Pilgrims’ Fountain. Legend has it that here a pilgrim was tempted by the devilwith the promise of water if he would blaspheme against St. James and God. Natural-ly, the staunch catholic resisted the temptation and was later given water by the holySt. James himself.

Wind Park (parque eólico). Across the mountain ridge “Where the Way of thewinds meets the Way of the stars”, 40 giant wind turbines are located for the production of electricity.

Zariquiegui - Uterga 75

Brazilian pilgrims on the Puerto del Perdón (rj)

On the pass summit, you cross a country road and it continues mostly downhill for3.5 km on initially stony paths ( There have been some falls over here), to UtergaHe (km 6) where close to the end of town the J pilgrims’ refuges Baztan (right)and Camino del Perdón (left) are located on the left side.Je Baztan. 2015 opened private refuge in a renovated party rustic house. 24 spots in a

dorm, garden, chapelle, H one dbl with breakfast € 45, sgl € 30. Menu without wine € 8,C free, @ j T. t 948 344 528 or 691 840 408, 7 year-round, 10 am to 10 pm, over-night stay with breakfast € 10

JHeCamino del Perdón. Private refuge with 16 cots in a clean, well-maintained dorm withroom dividers, terrace, double € 50, menu € 12, @ j T . t 948 344 661, 7 Mar to Oct,€ 10

Uterga - Muruzábal (2 km) - Eunate - Obanos 3.9/7.1 kmFrom the pilgrims’ refuge, the way continues on beautiful trails 1.6 km further to thetown entrance of Muruzábal Hk Q J where the Jrefuge is also located and400 m further near the town center. JHe Small private refuge (El Jardín) in a remodeled residential house. 14 spots in a simple

maintained dorm with room dividers, simple nice dbls with breakfast from € 40, commonarea with cooking possibility on the ground floor. Convenience food for sale, large lawnfor sunbathing with lounger chairs, in the summer " pool free, breakfast € 4, menu€ 11, @ j T. t 696 688 399, 7 Easter to Oct, 12:30 pm to 10 pm, € 10

o The Way across Eunate. For those who do not have time-pressure imposed ontheir vacation, the small detour of 3.2 km to the small church Santa Maria de Eunate

+ 395 m is a must. Forthis purpose, you turnleft in front of the cityhall – a house withflags with a bus shelterlocated nearby – andwill reach this gemafter 2.5 km (km 4.5).The Way then leadsyou from Eunate,directly 2.6 km furtherinto the village center

of Obanos JHs e QB + 412 m (> below), where you again reach theWay alternatives at the local church (km 7.1).

76 Uterga - Muruzábal - Eunate - Obanos

In Eunate or, at the latest, in Obanos, the two most important Ways of St. Jamesmerge: the Aragonese, and the Navarrese. The city Puente la Reina carries the fameof being the meeting point of the most important Ways of St. James.

É Church Eunate. Harmonic Romanesque chapel whose origin is unclear. Itsoctagonal form and other evidence suggest a holy sepulcher.7 Year-round daily from 10:30 am to 1:30 pm, additionally Nov, Jan, Feb, Sat and Sun 4 pm

to 6 pm, Mar to Oct 5:30 pm to 8 pm, entrance free

o Circuit. In enjoy-able silence, walk bare-foot two- or three timeson the brick path whichsurrounds the smallchurch. It is said that youwill better feel the mysterious spiritualenergy which surroundsthis magical place. Eventhe Sunset is a specialevent here.

You will get fromEunate to Obanos byheading West past theservice building. A well-marked Way will thentake you for 2.3 kmmostly on gravel road,past vineyards, acrosscountry roads, and at last over a steep incline up to the village, where after 300 mboth Ways meet near the church.

* The shortcut leads you from the above-mentioned turn in Muruzábal, after1.9 km, to the charming main square in ObanosJHsQ + 412 m, where thetwo routes merge close by, next to the church (km 3.9).

Obanos + 412 m JHseQB On this square, the Misterio de San Guillén y Santa Felicia is performed, whichis the only Spanish medieval musical play (auto sacramental) still in existence. It isbased on medieval lore, where Wilhelm (Guillén), duke of Aquitaine, stabbed his sister Felicia based on anger, because after her pilgrimage to Santiago, she did not

Uterga - Muruzábal - Eunate - Obanos 77

Finisterre (sv)

AA Balsa 218A Brea 235A Calzada 245A Parrocha 228A Pena 270Accommodation 30Agés 119Aguiada 225Aguíada 219Airexe 234Alto do Mar de Ovellas 268Alto do Poio 214Amarela 278Ambasmestas 204Amenal 249Arcahueja 162

Arzúa 243Astorga 178Atapuerca 119Augapesada 268Ayegui 84Azofra 103

BBackpack 40Barbadelo 225Barca 269Barreiro 241Belorado 113Bercianos del Real Camino 158Boadilla del Camino 139Boavista 245Boente 241

Index

Brea 227Burgos 127Burgueiros 268

CCacabelos 196Calle 245Calling 34Calvor 219Calzada del Coto 154Calzada Romana 156Calzadilla de la Cueza 149Calzadilla de los Hermanillos 155Camino Aragonés 50Camiño Real 270Camping 34Campo 191Camponaraya 195Cape Finisterre 283Carballal 268Carballo 268Cardeñuela de Ríopico 121Carrión de los Condes 146Castañares 123Castañeda 242Castildelgado 111Castrillo de los Polvozares 180Castrojeriz 136Castromaior 232Cée 276Chancela 269Cirauqui 81Cirueña 104Cizur Menor 74Climate 34Columbrianos 194

Corcubión 277Cornado 272Credencial 24Cruz de Ferro 186Cyclists 35

DDogs 37Drinking Water 37

EEl Acebo 187El Burgo Ranero 158El Castro 207El Ganso 182Emergency Hotline 38Empalme 246Equipment 38Espinal 61Espinosa del Camino 116Estella 84Estorde 278Eunate 76

FFerreiros 227Filloval 215First Aid 41Fisterra 279Fisterrana 282Foncebadón 184Fonfría 214Fontearcuda 218Food 42Freituxe 223Fresno del Camino 170

Index 285

Frómista 141Fuente El Piojo 138Fuentesnuevas 194Furela 219

GGalicia 212Gonzar 231Grañón 108Gueima 272

HHerrerías 207Hiking Boots 41History 20Holidays 43Holy Year 27Hontanas 133Hornillos del Camino 133Hospital da Condesa 213Hospital da Cruz 232Hospital de Órbigo 172, 174Huntto 56

IIglesia 270Internet 34Itero de la Vega 138

LLa Faba 207Labacolla 249Laguna de Castilla 208Language 43Larrasoaña 66

Las Lamas 207Lastres 223Lavandeira 227Ledigos 150León 164Lestedo 235Liñares 213Lingonde 234Logoso 274Logroño 95Lorca 82Los Arcos 88

MMail 44Mañeru 81Manjarín 186Mansilla de las Mulas 160Medical Supply 43Melide 239Mercado 226Mercadoiro 228Meseta 132Molinaseca 189Money 44Montán 218Monte do Gozo 250Montes de Oca 117Moratinos 151Morgade 227Moutras 228Murias de Rechivaldo 180Muruzábal 76Muxía 266

286 Index

NNájera 102Navarrete 98Negreira 269

OO Carbarallal 241O Cebreiro 208Obanos 77Olveiroa 273Oncina de la Valdoncina 170Orbaneja de Ríopico 122Orisson 57Os Lameiros 234

PPadornelo 214Palas de Rei 236Pamplona 69Pascais 225Pedrafita do Cebreiro 207Pedrouzo 248Pereje 203Pieros 196Pilgrim’s Staff 27Pintín 219Población de Campos 142Ponferrada 192Ponte Campaña 237Ponte Maceira 268Ponte Olveira 272Portela 204Portomarín 229Portos 234Pradela 201

Preguntoño 244Puente la Reina 78Puente Villarente 161Puerto del Perdón 75

QQueimada 212Quintans 268

RRabanal del Camino 183Rabé de las Calzadas 131Rapote 270Redecilla del Camino 109Refuges 30, 111Reino 268Reliegos 157, 160Renche 223Rente 226Return Travel 263Revenga 144Ribadiso 242Riego de Ambrós 188Roncesvalles 60Rosario 235Rúa 247Ruitelán 206

SSahagún 152Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port 51Salceda 245Samos 223San Antón 135, 249San Bol 133

Index 287

San Cristovo do Real 222San Juan de Ortega 118San Justo de la Vega 177San Mamede 219, 225San Martín del Camino 174San Martiño 223San Nicolás 151San Paio 249San Xulián 237Sansol 89Santa Cata lina de Somoza 182Santa Catalina de Somoza 180Santa Irene 246Santa Mariña 272Santiago de Compostela 252Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias 177Santo Domingo de la Calzada 106Sardiñeiro 278Sarria 220Shopping 44Signposts 45St. James Associations 46Stages 46

TTabernavella 244Tardajos 131Terradillos de los Templarios 150Tierra de Campos 139Torres del Río 90Tosantos 115Trabadelo 202, 204Trasmonte 268Travel Time 34Triacastela 216Trinidad de Arre 67

U/VUterga 76Valtuille de Arriba 197Valverde de la Virgen 173Vega de Valcarce 205Ventas de Narón 233Ventosa 100, 268Viana 91Viduedo 215Vilacha 228Vilaserío 271Villadangos del Páramo 173Villafranca del Bierzo 199Villafranca Montes de Oca 116Villalcázar de Sirga 145Villalval 121Villamayor 112Villamayor de Monjardín 87Villambistia 115Villamoros 160Villar de Mazarife 171Villares de Órbigo 176Villarmentero 143, 144Villatuerta 83Villava 67Villavante 172Viloria 111Virgen del Camino 169Viscarret 63

ZZabaldika 66Zariquiegui 74Zas 270Zubiri 64

288 Index