Travel Guide to Zanzibar

7/30/2019 Travel Guide to Zanzibar

1/22

Page

21

Travel Guide to Zanzibar

Zanzibar, a part of the United Republic of Tanzania, is aseries of many islands, the main ones being Unguja andPemba. The more populated of the two main islands,Unguja, is better known as Zanzibar Island and is home toStone Town (also known as Zanzibar Town or ZanzibarCity), an historic, bustling city of narrow alleyways andstone coral buildings. In addition to the two main islands,there are many other islands and islets in the Zanzibararchipelago which stretches from the top of Pemba to thesouth point of Unguja.

Unguja is in the Indian Ocean about 40 km east ofBagamoyo on the Tanzanian mainland. The slightly hillyisland itself is about 85 km long and between 20 30 kmwide at its widest points. Most of the population lives inthe more fertile regions of the north and west. The easternpart of the island is arid and covered in coral rag (rockmade of coral)making it unattractive for farming, but thebeaches and the reefs on the eastern coasts make themideal for fishing villages, tourist guesthouses, and resorts.

Pemba, located about 50 Kms north of Unguja, is far lesspopulated. Known also by its Arabic name, Al Khundrameaning Green Island, Pemba is covered in steep hills fullof palms, clove and rubber trees, rice paddies and theNgezi Forest in the north. There are many pure, beautifulbeaches in and around the numerous inlets and coves.Tourism is not as developed on Pemba as it is on Ungujabut resorts are being built and the infrastructure willundoubtedly improve as tourism increases.

People

The people of Zanzibar are predominantly Muslim, about

95% of the population being followers of Islam. Theremaining percentage is a mix of Christians, Hindus andfollowers of various other religions. Swahili is the officialand national language of Tanzania but English is alsospoken in Zanzibar, and a percentage of the populationalso has a working knowledge of Arabic. The populationconsists of people from the following ancestries: African,Persian, Omani (and other Arab states), and Asian. Thelocal economy is based on agriculture and fishing. Thepopulation of the archipelago is estimated at over 740,000while the population of Unguja is estimated at almost450,000, forty per cent of which live in Stone Town. Theliteracy rate in Zanzibar is very high.

Climate

Zanzibar is a few degrees south of the equator and enjoysa tropical climate that is largely dominated by the IndianOcean monsoons. The kasikazi winds are from the northand occur in the winter months bringing the short rains.The long rains, known as mwaka, arrive in March and lastuntil late May or June.

January through March is generally hot and dry

with little rainfall.

April through June is wet because of the long

rains which start to taper off in May.

July through October are ideal months for

visiting Zanzibar because the averagetemperature is 25 C, the air is dry and breezy andthere is little rainfall.

November and December are when the shor

rains appear.Average rainfall in Zanzibar is about 165 cm (65 inches)and the average temperature is 26 C (79 F).

The name Zanzibar came from a combination of two

Arabic words, 'Zinj', meaning black, and 'barr', being the

Arabic word for land, the result meaning 'Land of theBlacks'.

History

For a small island in the southern waters of the IndianOcean, Zanzibar has a long and unexpected historyEasily accessible for the people of the African mainland,the Zanzibar islands are believed to have been settled firstby Africans, some three to four thousand years agoCenturies later the island began a history of hosting

foreigners from Egypt, Greece, Persia, Arabia, IndiaChina and Europe. The first recorded visit to Zanzibar isfrom about 60 AD and appears in a work titled "ThePeriplus of the Erythaean Sea", written by a Greekmerchant who was living in Alexandria. ClaudiusPtolemy, the famous Greek geographer living in Egypt,also made mention of Zanzibar in his work at about 150AD, although the island was referred to under anothername. Trade routes from Egypt, Roman Europe and theAfrican coast, including Zanzibar, were, by the time ofPtolemy's writing, extending to Indo-Chinese ports.

It is believed that Bantu people (Africans speaking Bantu

languages) settled in Zanzibar somewhere around the 4 tcentury AD. By the 7 th century AD, Islam had made itsway to Zanzibar by way of Arab and Persian immigrantswho were fleeing political strife, war, and famine in theirown lands. The Arabs mixed with the local Africanpopulation and along with trading goods, traded words aswell, which eventually resulted in a language calledKiswahili today. The people referred to themselves andtheir culture as Swahili (thought to be named from theArabic word sahilmeaning coast) and thus the languagewas named as well. For the following centuries the Arabsand Persians continued to trade with their homelandwhile marrying into local society in Zanzibar and along

the East African coast. Typical cargoes bound for Persiaor Arabia consisted of gold, animal pelts, tortoise shellsivory, ebony, and slaves; return ships containedporcelains, beads, and cloth. The Swahili culture reachedits peak in the 13th century and it prospered up until thearrival of the Europeans in the late 15th century.

Chinese shipping logs show entries from junks having

visited Zanzibar harbour as early as the 13th century.

The oldest trace of Islam on the island is in Kizimkazi, the

southern-most village on Unguja, where there's a mosque


2/22

Page

21

with inscriptions dating back to 1107 AD. The mosque

has been renovated several times but the old inscriptions

are still there and available for viewing by tourists.

Remember to remove shoes, keep shoulders and knees

covered, speak quietly, and leave a donation. Women areallowed to enter this mosque.

By the 15th century, Zanzibar was its own Sultanate but

this independence did not last. In 1498 Vasco da Gama'sexpedition from Portugal began a stronghold over thewhole East African Coast that lasted for two centuries.During this time, Jesuits, Dominicans, and Augustiniansbuilt churches and tried to convert the local populace toRoman Catholicism, but were largely unsuccessful. ThePortuguese did not send enough men to protect their newterritory and by the late 1600s they had lost their last EastAfrican holding by surrendering Mombasa on the nowKenyan coast. There is little evidence left that thePortuguese dominated Zanzibar for two hundred yearsalthough there are still bullfights on Pemba, some wordsleft in Swahili that originated from Portuguese, and thepatterns of the kanga (ubiquitous local cloth) are said tohave originated from Portuguese handkerchiefs.

The Bullfights in Pemba, assumed to be a cultural

holdover from the Portuguese era, do not result in the

death of the animal. The bulls are Indian and not nearly

as fat and fierce as those seen in bullfights in Europe.

The Sultans

After the Portuguese were beaten out of the region, theOmanis took control of Zanzibar despite protest fromlocal African chiefs. The Omanis ruled Zanzibar inactuality and in theory up until the bloody revolution of

1963. During this period, about a dozen sultans of theBusaidi family took the throne and ruled the islands. Themost influential, successful, and possibly the most kind ofthese was "Said the Great" or Seyyid Said bin Sultan.Sultan Said introduced cloves to the island in the early1800s and, together with the lucrative slave trade that ranout of Zanzibar, put his empire in riches. Things weregoing so well for the Sultan in Zanzibar that, around1840, he decided to move the Sultanate capital fromMuscat to Unguja.

By mid 19th century, Zanzibar was the world's leading

clove exporter as well as a large exporter of slaves. A

reported 25,000 slaves passed through Zanzibar everyyear. Slave trader Tipu Tip got so rich off the trade that

he was able to afford over thirty concubines and their

children in addition to his official wife and her two

children.

In 1870 Cholera claimed the lives of over 10,000 peoplein Zanzibar.

After Sultan Said died in 1856 (on a boat while returningto Zanzibar from a placating visit to Oman), the royalfamily faced a series of near debilitating power struggles.

Plagued by jealousy, intrigue, and the abolition of slaverythe sultans and their subjects faced a post-heyday slumpduring which the British were successful in wresting awayfrom them much of the control of the island. The Britishhad been trying to abolish the slave trade from the islandsince Sultan Said's rule but had only been successful ineffecting quotas and intimidating traders of certainnationalities. After his death, the British succeeded inpressuring Said's successors to stop the slave trade onZanzibar. In 1873, Sultan Barghash signed a treatyagreeing to the end of the slave trade in his dominions butdidnt honor it. By 1890, Sultan Ali, the last of SultanSaid's successors, signed the third treaty of its kindpromising an end to the slave trade in Zanzibar. This onestuck and all slaves to enter the area after that date weredeclared free and no more were sold. By this timemembers of the Zanzibar Sultanate (having broken by thistime from Oman) were reduced to powerless figureheadson a British salary.

At the time of Sultan Said's death he had one official wife

and 75 concubine-cum-wives (called sarari). Only 36 ofhis over 100 children remained. Of these, 18 were male

and 18 were female and all were born of sarari mothers.

On August 25, 1896, Sultan Hamed bin Thuwain

(Grandson of Said the Great) died leaving the Sultanate's

throne empty. Hamed's cousin, Khaled (the son of former

Sultan Barghash,) claimed the throne by crawlingthrough a window of the ceremonial palace, collecting

supporters and then announcing that he was the new

Sultan. During this time Zanzibar was a Protectorate

under the British Government, and they were not about to

release control of the island to an attempted palace coup.

On August 26th they sent an ultimatum to Khaled stating

that the British would use force if he did not lower his

flag by 9:00 a.m. the next day. On August 27th in the

early morning hours, the European women were shuttled

to a boat offshore to wait out the day. At 9:00 a.m., withKhaled's flag still flying, the British opened fire and in

forty minutes managed to destroy the Palace, the Harem,

the Sultan's ship, the Glasgow, and the lighthouse,leaving the House of Wonders only slightly damaged. At

9:45 the war was over and Seyyid Hamoud bin

Muhammed was proclaimed as the new, and British-

approved, Sultan. The war lasted only forty-five minutes

and is listed in the Guinness Book of World Records asthe shortest war in history.

From 1902 to 1970 Zanzibar was home to at least fifty

newspapers, most of which were published in English,

Swahili and/or Gujarati, an Indian language.

The British Protectorate continued until, realizing thaindependence was looming for the islands, the Britishgranted them independence in June of 1963Constitutional independence was established onDecember 10th, 1963 and control of the islands wapassed to the constitutional monarch. The new monarchydidn't last long, however, because on January 1964, just a


3/22

Page

21

month later, a violent revolution resulted in theemergence of the People's Republic of Zanzibar led byPresident Karume, the leader of the Afro-Shirazi Party.The revolution was brief but brutal; over 17,000 Arabsand Indians were killed in a period of several days. Manyof the remaining Asians and Arabs left the island and theirpossessions and land were nationalized.

On April 24, 1964 Zanzibar joined with Julius (Mwalimu Swahili for 'teacher') Nyerere's Tanganyika to formmodern day Tanzania. Zanzibar's autonomous stateincluded a constitutional right to keep its own President,Chief Minister, Cabinet and House of Representatives.The union did not place Zanzibar at the feet of Tanzaniaand Karume managed to keep profits from the cloveplantations on Pemba without having to give any over tothe mainland. During his rule he established relationshipswith socialist-based countries such as Cuba, the SovietUnion, China, East Germany, other Eastern Bloc andAfrican and third world nations. Because of the absenceof engineers that was created by the post-revolution Asianexodus, Karume was in need of help in order to developroads, an airport, and other modern necessities; hereceived this help from socialist governments around theworld. In the late 1980s Zanzibar opened to the idea offree market and started to take advantage of its tourismpotential. Zanzibar held its first multi-party elections in1995.

Stone Town

Zanzibar's capital and largest town is Stone Town, locatedin the middle of the west coast of Unguja. The town wasnamed for the coral stone buildings that were build therelargely during the 19th century. Modern-day Stone Townis home to 1,700 buildings and over 16,000 people. StoneTown is known for its narrow alleyways, large carveddoors and covered balconies. The doors, large woodencarved affairs with or without brass studs, are a part of theSwahili culture that were influenced by Arab andespecially Indian motifs. The large brass studs becamedecoration after first having served as spike covers; thespikes having been protection from elephant raids duringwars in India. Doors with rounded tops, or lintels, reflectIndian influence while doors with flat lintels demonstratea version popular with Omanis in Zanzibar. Many doorshave Koranic inscriptions and some of the older doorsfound in town are much less ornate than the later ones.Different carvings to look for are chains around the edge

meant to bring security, Lotus and rosettes in the centermeant to represent prosperity, and fish at the bottomrepresenting fertility. Stone Town is home to 51 Mosques,6 Hindu Temples and 2 Christian Churches.

On the waterfront, near the Old Dispensary, is an old tree

known locally as the Big Tree. Some locals believe that

Sultan Khalifa planted it in 1911 but others believe it wasplanted in 1944 as a bicentennial of Al Busaid. The Big

Tree is quite visible from the harbor and is seen in many

old photographs. The shaded area underneath it is

currently used as a workshop for men building boats. It's

a good place to find boat pilots to hire for a lift to Prison

Island or Bawe Island.Zanzibar as a cultural collage:The following things were introduced to Zanzibar by

foreign lands; Rice from Malaysia, Cloves from

Indonesia, Bullfighting from Portugal, Islam from ArabiaCassava and Cashews from Brazil, Tomatoes and Corn

from the Americas, Turmeric from India, and some types

of Bananas and Coconuts possibly from Pacific islands or

Southeast Asia.

The large, loud black birds seen in and around Zanzibar

are Indian Crows. They were imported by Sir GeraldPortal who was hoping that the birds would help the

sanitation effort by eating 'waste'.Only 226 or about 13per cent of Stone Town's buildings are considered to be in

good condition the remaining structures are either

deteriorating or in ruins. 1998 marked the year of

Zanzibar's first traffic light. The second train in EastAfrica was completed in Zanzibar in 1905 and operated

under the name of the Bububu line. It traveled from

Bububu village to Stone Town, only 8 km away. It was

used mostly for transporting people.

Henna Painting was originally done in order to cool ones

hands and feet. Traditionally, Swahilis perform henna

painting for brides and married women only. Various

styles of henna painting are available in Zanzibar whose

origins range from Sudan, India and Arabia.Swahili hadbeen written only in Arabic script, using Arabic letters to

spell Swahili words phonetically, until the arrival of the

first English-Swahili dictionary that spelled Swahil

words in the Roman alphabet. Bishop Edward Steere

the same man who oversaw the building of the Anglican

Cathedral over the site of the old slave market, wrote the

dictionary.

Things to see

While walking tours are nice and can be arranged with aguide, getting lost in Stone Town is fun and harmless.

Because the town is small and all roads eventually lead to

either the waterfront or large, car-traffic roads, tourists

can wander and explore while they take in the sights;

eventually, they will arrive at a building or landmark

visible on a map. Local people, both adult and child, are

very helpful in aiding visitors to find their way, and there

are no dangers as long as you're getting lost during theday. While in town it is polite (and much appreciated) to

observe local custom by keeping your knees and

shoulders covered; this applies to men and women. Be

sure to ask for permission before taking pictures of Stone

Town residents. This is especially important when the

subject of your picture is a woman.

Arab Fort

Built in 1780 by the Omanis (not by the Portuguese, as iscommonly thought), the large stone structure next to theHouse of Wonders (Beit-el-Ajaib) was used to protecpeople from at least one attack from the mainland. It waslater used as a prison and a barracks. Within its walls areleftover structures from a Portuguese church and a


4/22

Page

21

previous fortification built by the Omanis in the beginningof the same century. The modern-day fort is a great placeto stop for lunch and at night there are often Taarab,Ngoma (local styles of music and dance) or movie nights.Also inside the Fort are shops and a beauty salon thatdoes henna painting.

Kelele Square

Quickly becoming a posh neighborhood with the openingof the Zanzibar Serena Inn and a new full service beautysalon, Dia Beauty Centre, Kelele Square was once the siteof a slave market. The square was presumably namedduring the time of the slave trade and it must have been asource of considerable noise as its name suggests: 'kelele'is the Swahili word for noise.

High Court

Zanzibar's High Court of Justice building is a combinationof Arabic design and Portuguese influence and wasdesigned by J. H .Sinclair, an architect and former Britishresident. It is on Kaunda Road near Victoria Gardens and

the President's House.

Hamamni Persian Baths

The Hamamni Persian Baths were commissioned by

Sultan Barghash bin Said (son of Said the Great) and

were built for public use. Hamamni translates into "place

of the baths" and is now the name of the neighborhood

where these baths once were. (The tubs are still there, but

the water is gone). The baths are an interesting place tovisit, but depending on how much time you have, how

well you deal with heat, and how interested you are in

history, you may want to skip the guide and have a look

on your own. There's a nominal fee for entering and it's

payable in US or local currency. The front rooms wereused for changing, barbering, paying dues and

socializing. The long hall leads to the warm room that

was heated by underground hot-water aqueducts.Remaining rooms include hot baths, cold baths, toilets

and private shaving areas. The original building was

larger and featured an arcade and restaurant but that

part has since been turned into private residences.

Although they were public, the baths were frequented by

the wealthy classes only; the poorer classes could in no

way afford such a luxury.

The entrance fee to the Hamamni Baths was about ten

cents and was therefore only for the upper classes.Although the baths were open to both men and women,

they had separate hours of admittance, open to women in

the mornings and men in the afternoons. It was (and still

is) customary for married Muslim men and women to rid

themselves of all body hair; shaving vestibules were

provided within the bathhouse.

Anglican Cathedral Church of Christ

The Anglican Church is located on Mkunazini Road andcan be reached by car. The church was started in 1873 andit is said that the altar stands on the exact location of thewhipping post from the island's largest slave marketThere is a small museum just before the church wheretourists can crawl into a space that was allegedly used tohold slaves before they were sold (the space wasoriginally built by missionaries who created it for coldstorage). It's a horrifyingly small space and gives thevisitor a glimpse into the terror of the trade even if itwasn't actually used to store slaves. Visitors pay a fee toenter the museum and this usually includes a guide for themuseum and the Church. The Church has a history writteninside, in the event that a guide is unavailable.

St. Joseph's Catholic Cathedral

Built between 1893 and 1897 by French missionaries, StJoseph's Cathedral was designed by the same architecwho designed the cathedral at Marseilles, France. Itspires can be seen from any elevated point in town and itserves as a handy landmark for those in search of ChitChat restaurant although the spires are hard to see fromthe narrow streets of Stone Town.

The Old Dispensary

The recently restored Old Dispensary, also known as theAga Khan Cultural Centre is worth a visit for the smalmuseum on the upper level that describes and depicts therestoration process. Old photos of the waterfront are alsoon display. The first stone of the Old Dispensary was laidin 1887 and the building was finished in 1894. It was builtby Tharia Topan, one of Zanzibar's richest men, in orderto commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria.

Shakti TempleThe Shakti Temple had a sizable congregation before therevolution, but after a large number of Hindus departedfrom Zanzibar in 1964, this temple is now rarely full. It isalmost always open and welcomes visitors, and wilprovide a tour but it is almost impossible to find without aguide. Its chimes and bells, rung every day around sunriseand just before sunset, can be heard from the rooftoprestaurant of Emerson's & Green, just across the street (asthe crow flies).

Aga Khan Mosque

Another place of worship that was built for a large

congregation than it now services is the Aga KhanMosque. It is a large and beautifully detailed buildingwith an airy courtyard in the front. The faade showsEuropean influence in its gothic windows.

Malindi Mosque

One of Stone Town's oldest mosques, the MalindMosque was built by the Sunni sect in a typical simplestyle. This mosque is unusual because its minaret isconical, one of only three in East Africa. Another unusuatrait is that the minaret sits on a square platform instead ofstarting from the ground as most minarets do. To see theminaret you'll need to stand on a baraza (stone or cement


5/22

Page

21

benches on the outside of Swahili style buildings) of aneighboring building that is down an alley and across theroad from the mosque itself. You may need a guide tofind the best view of the minaret and the door. Acrossfrom the mosque entrance is an old mausoleum, one ofthe few left in Stone Town.

Palace Museum

The Palace Museum has a room dedicated to the life ofPrincess Salme of Zanzibar, daughter of Sultan Said. Itcontains family photographs and excerpts from her booktitled, "Memoirs of an Arabian Princess," as well as asample of her typical wardrobe. The Palace also has otherrooms on display showing a mix of various types offurniture acquired by the sultans over the years. Therooms are in various states of disrepair but provide a goodidea about the quality of life for the sultan's family towardthe end of their reign. They also show proof of a typicallack of funds for historical preservation. Standing on oneof the balconies and looking out toward the harbour, onemight get a similar view to what the Sultans saw from thesame spot.

Memoirs of an Arabian Princess, by Princess Salme, is

an account of her life in the royal court of Zanzibar in the

1800's. It is considered to be a very important work

because it is the only one of its kind. Women in the royal

court of Oman and Zanzibar were not taught to read or

write (outside of basic Koran lessons) and therefore thereare no written legacies that describe what life was like for

them, except for Salme's. The book is available at some

shops in town and it is highly recommended reading for

those visiting Zanzibar.

The Peace Memorial MuseumLocated on Creek Road near the intersection of KuandaRoad and designed by the same architect who designedthe High Court, J. H. Sinclair, the National Museum ishome to many of Zanzibar's memorabilia including, mostnotably, Livingstone's medical chest. Also on display area piece of Zanzibar's (and East Africa's first) railroad, andan old, palm oil-powered bicycle lamp. For history buffsit's a great place to read up on Zanzibar's history as itrelates to everything from slavery, the royal families,coins, stamps, local crafts, trade and the many and variedcolonial years. Next door to the museum is a smallNatural History museum that includes some stuffed andjarred specimens along with a few bones, including thoseof a dodo. The only live specimens are the large landtortoises that live outside in a large cage. If your tripdoesn't allow you to get to Prison Island make sure youswing by the Peace Memorial Museum to check out thebig tortoises they're the only ones in town!

Beit-el-Ajaib (House of Wonders)

Sultan Barghash built Beit-el-Ajaib (Arabic for 'House ofWonders') in 1883 on the site of former Zanzibar QueenFatuma's residence of the 16th century. It got its name bybeing the first house in Stone Town with electric lights. Itwas also the first building in East Africa to have an

electric elevator. It is easily found because it's the largestbuilding on the island; it's white, has a clock tower, andfaces the ocean and fronts on Mizingani Road. In 1896the building was slightly damaged during the ShortestWar in History. Right after the turn of the century theBritish used the building for their local offices until therevolution of 1964. In 1977 the CCM (Chapa ChaMapinduzi, Swahili for 'the Party of the Revolution'made the House of Wonders their party school andmuseum. There are still CCM signs up around the ground-floor veranda and some larger signs closer to the clocktower. Since the CCM moved their museum in the earlypart of the 1990's, the building has been used for little elseother than dust collecting. Some of President Karume'sold cars, including a Zephyr and an Austin are insidecovered in dust. Aside from a small craft consortium thathas been granted permission to make a small bazaar of thefront ground-level porch and foyer, there is nothingdespite plans to make a museum, planned for the buildingApparently, plans had been made for the restoration anddevelopment of the building into a museum but after themuch-disputed election of 1995, many aid organizations

put their generosity on hold.

Darajani Bazaar and Dala-dala Station

Zanzibar's 'mall' is across Creek Road near the mainmarket on Darajani Road. Also known as DarajanBazaar, this shopping strip is a fun walk and a must toavoid the 'in-town' prices across the street. However, thethings available in the Darajani bazaar are mostly Chineseand Iranian imports such as sheets, synthetic fabricsmetal pans, plastic shoes, radios and other products of themodern world. For people planning a long stay inZanzibar, Darajani is a great place to stock up on itemslike portable mosquito nets, thermoses and flip-flops. It's

also a good place to pick up fabric to take to a local tailorto have some clothes made. Keep in mind that the onlynatural fabrics you will find are cottons in the form ofWest African prints, locally-worn kangas (printed inIndia) and imported plain cotton in different colors. Silkscan be found in town but it's a time-consuming searchFor people looking for kangas, there are usually kangasellers behind the dala-dalas on the left toward DarajaniRoad. They don't have stalls; they lay the kangas on tarpson the ground.

Right next to the beginning of the Darajani Bazaar is themain terminal for Zanzibar's short-haul public

transportation system. Dala-dalas crowd the parking lotwaiting for passengers. The fare is low, but if you don'thave exact change, the fare goes up so try to have anassortment of coins when you climb aboard. They go infour major directions and have letters above their cabsindicating which route they travel. B stands for Bububuand this dala-dala will travel from Stone Town to thecenter of Bububu village just north of Stone Town. Ustands for Uwanja wa Ndege (airport in Swahili) andtravels from the town center directly to the airport. (Allowplenty of time in case the driver pokes along hoping formore fares.) A stands for Amani and travels up the hill to


6/22

Page

21

Amani stadium, passing the main Post Office andTelephone office (TTCL). M Stands for Magomani and Jstands for Janjgombe. These two dala-dalas travel to othervillages near Stone Town, but their access routes are thesame as traveled by some of the other dala-dalas.

Matwani or Basi, the giant wooden-sided trucks, are the

long-haul public transport vehicles. They stop on the

Stone Town side of Creek Road near the market. Theytravel to village destinations beyond the reach of the

dala-dalas but they travel slowly and usually there is only

one trip to a village per day.A Dala-dala is a smallpickup truck whose bed has had benches installed around

the edges and a roof placed on top. The tailgate has been

removed and in its place steps have been installed making

the dala-dalas easy to board. Passengers sit on the

benches in the trunk-bed as well as whatever available

seats are in the cab. Plastic tarps are rolled down from

the roof on the outside when it's raining. The roof has a

rack where parcels are placed.Dala-dalas got their namefrom the Swahili pronunciation of 'dollar'; the original

fare was a five-shilling coin the size of a silver dollar.

David Livingstone

David Livingstone was born on March 19, 1813 in

Scotland. He first went to Africa in 1841 as a missionary

doctor. His travels led him to East Africa where he

landed on Zanzibar and then went into the interior on

various expeditions. In 1871, after Livingstone had notbeen heard from for some years, he met up with Welsh-

born American Henry Morton Stanley who had been

dispatched by his newspaper to find the famous explorer.

After some months of exploring together, Stanley went

back to Zanzibar and would never see Livingstone again.

Livingstone died in the bush, in search of the source of

the Nile, in 1872 in present-day Zambia.

Henry Morton Stanley

Dispatched from New York by his employers at a

newspaper there, Stanley reached Zanzibar on January 6,

1871 from where he would begin his search for David

Livingstone. After meeting with the Sultan and receiving

letters of recommendation that would help him in the

interior of the mainland, he set off on his search. Almost a

year later on November 10, 1871 he found Livingstone in

Ujiji. Stanley's recollection of the meeting includes thewords, "Doctor Livingstone, I presume." At the time of

their meeting, Livingstone was in a bad state suffering

from foot problems and dysentery. The two stayed

together for about two weeks while Livingstone's health

improved after which they embarked on an expedition.

They explored the northern territory of Lake Tanganyika

until Stanley returned to Zanzibar in May, 1872 without

Livingstone, who was still exploring, and on his way to

the southern shores of Lake Tanganyika.

Shopping in Zanzibar

Whether you're in the market for T-shirts, spices, kangas,furniture or hand sewn pillow covers, Zanzibar is one ofthe last places left for fun shopping and bargain hunts.

You will find the inevitable ashtray carved out of acoconut shell, but there are enough Tinga-tinga paintingswoodcarvings and woven goods to keep almost everyonein the market for a tasteful souvenir. Gizenga Street, offKenyatta Road by the Post Office is an excellent street forfinding all the things mentioned above plus postcardsstamps, skin-covered drums, spices, and antiques. Sasik, astore representing a women's cooperative, is highlyrecommended for locally sewn pillow covers intraditional Arabic and Persian patterns. Some of thefabrics are even dyed on the island from local plant dyesThroughout town there are several shops (called dukas)that sell everything from groceries to fuel. There are alsosome antique stores that, although they may have more ofa junk store appearance, have some interesting pieces thatmay bear historical importance and almost all of them selthe ceramic bowls leftover from the colonial era (50 to 60years old). Look for stamps, coins, currency billsfurniture, ceramic bowls, wooden frames, metasignboards advertising Simba Chai (Lion Tea), antiquewall clocks and copper and brass bowls, pans and teakettles. Coconut massage oil with lemongrass, bitte

orange soap and other locally-made products areaffordable and unavailable at home so consider stockingup. Spice baskets are available all over town, they travewell, make easy souvenirs for friends and they'll clearcustoms in no time.

Kangas, the local cloth worn by women over their dressesand covering their heads, are available next to Darajaniand in town near the majestic cinema, by the marketKangas are sold in a pair and most often you'll have to cutthe fabric yourself but sometimes they are alreadyseparated. They are about three feet by five feet and areavailable in every possible color and print ranging from

humorous to somber. For designs, pictures some kangashave ears of corn, others may have ships or cars and stillothers will be traditional local patterns of rosettes, paisleyand polka dots. All kangas, without exception, have amessage written in Swahili. Sometimes the Swahili iswritten phonetically in Arabic script, but it is a Swahiliproverb not an Arab one. The kanga sellers generallydon't have the English capacity to translate the proverbsso ask someone from your hotel to translate for you but beaware that there can be many interpretations of oneproverb.

Kangas are named after the guinea fowl whose dark

feathers with white spots reminded people of the busypatterns of the local cloth. They are thought to have

originally come from Portuguese handkerchiefs sewn six-

together in a rectangular pattern and then developed over

the years to become the single most popular cultural

garment for women on the east coast of Africa. All

Kangas have a message or proverb on it and the kangasare sometimes used for non-confrontational

communication. The different patterns and colors on the

kangas also have meaning. Kangas have significance in

every major event in a Swahili woman's life from

childhood to marriage to motherhood and more. It's a


7/22

Page

21

good idea to know what your kanga says because the

messages can be strong, for instance one message says, "I

may be ugly, but I'm not for sale."

And don't forget stamps! Maybe you thought that the onlyitems people were still collecting as a hobby were oldlapel pins and loppy disks but there are still enoughphilatelic maniacs in the world to keep the Tanzanian Post

Office very busy. What could be a better novelty itemthan a Bruce Lee postage stamp issued in Tanzania andavailable for only TSh 75 (about US 13 cents)? You likebats? Collect the whole set of Tanzanian bat stamps. Aperson doesn't have to be dead to get a stamp here;Whitney Houston, Joan Armatrading and Tina Turner allhave their own. A pride of Tanzania, the stamps here arewidely varied and a kick to look through ranging frombeautiful to kitsch. Don't forget to take a peek and pick upsome souvenirs for the folks back home but try the giftshops first they have better stamp selections and betterhours than the Post Office, and they give you more timeto browse.

Tours

ZALA Park

ZALA stands for Zanzibar Land Animals and it is a parkwhere "Zanzibar's native species live in beautiful naturalsurroundings." It is run by a local school teacher who wastired of seeing other local people kill the local animals(sometimes endangered) out of fear or superstition.Muhammed, the Park's Ranger, started ZALA in anattempt to educate local kids but the menagerie is now onthe list of most tours going through the area. Muhammedhas made natural habitat homes for snakes, monitor

lizards, crabs, turtles, dik-dik (tiny gazelles) and hyrax(the closest living species to the elephant but it lookslike a rabbit with no ears). Muhammed is trying to getsome frogs to join his park but they have been fickle andalthough you can hear them around the park during therains they have been stubborn and refuse to come out forvisitors.

If you show an interest in the park and the animals,Muhammed, will give you a personal tour and take youinto "labs" and let you in on all his other projects (startingan aviary, frog-catching, salamander hatching, etc.). Hemight even let you crawl into the python area (which is

caged with a kind of chicken wire) where he keeps fourjumbo sized pythons. I was allowed to handle one oncebut since it weighed 35 kilos, I'm not sure who washandling whom. He complains that the python babieskeep getting away before he can catch them but he'slearning more about the animals every day. Givegenerously, he's doing a great thing without formal grants,and it is a time-consuming and costly endeavor. You mayalso think of donating any related naturalist books youmight have as a way of subsidizing his library.

Jozani Forest

Jozani Forest is a protected forest and is home to some ofour primate cousins. The Red Colobus monkeys areindigenous only to Zanzibar and they are e about 1,000strong in and around the protected forest. They don't allive together, but rather in little groups. Watch your guideclosely because, if he sneaks up on the monkeys, theymay try to pee on you. Keep your camera ready because ifthey decide to switch locations while you're there, you'lsee them swinging from branches, jumping on each otherand even running on the ground maybe through yourlegs. Don't feed them. Don't try to touch them and don'tvisit if you have a cold or flu.

A nature walk through the forest is a great way to seewildlife on the island that includes over 50 species ofbutterflies and 43 species of birds, one of which is anendemic subspecies - the Fischer's Tauraco. Other speciesthat live in Jozani Forest are hyraxes, sun squirrelsbushbabies, African civet, Ader's duiker, numerousdifferent frogs, and many kinds of snakes, bush pigs, gianelephant shrews, mongoose, geckos, skinks andchameleons. There's still talk about the rare andendangered Zanzibari Leopard but it's hard to tell if it'sfolklore or fact. The main trail winds around for aleisurely walk that can be cut short at any point for aquick return to the entrance. You'll pass mahogany treesand three types of palm trees including the oil palm. Theoil palm seeds are eaten by bush pigs, monkeys andAfrican civets, the droppings of whom you may comeacross in the path.

The mangrove walk is about an hour from start to finishbut that's only because you have to walk throughsomeone's farm for ten to 15 minutes before reaching theboardwalk of the mangrove. Walking over the coral ragroad can be hot and there's not much to look at except fora few cows and maybe a few Zanzibaris tending theirplants. There's no shade during this walk unlike theshaded walk of the forest so be sure to dress comfortablyThe mangrove walk is on a boardwalk built above salt-water marsh. You'll see crabs running in the black mudand you may learn about the nine different types ofmangrove on the island. Different guides have differentspecialties.

For the nature walk, the monkey walk and the mangrovewalk, a guide will take you in and a nominal fee must bepaid before going in. Shoes are suggested because antsand other biting insects may get you if you wear onlysandals. The information center for Jozani Forest haplenty of pamphlets, maps, migration charts and otherpapers to answer questions as well as cold soft drinks.

Spice Tour

Without a guide, you'll never find nutmeg sitting on theforest floor or think to peel the bark off of a cinnamontree but these are some of the fun things to do on Spicetour. Almost like a big Easter egg hunt, visitors go fromplantation to plantation and from plant to plant trying tofind the spice within. A guide may use a knife to carve off


8/22

Page

21

a root or branch or bark and then ask you to smell or tasteit to guess what it is. Use caution with the bright coloredones because turmeric can leave a stain on clothes thatwill last a lifetime. Nutmeg grows on a tree and is sort ofthe pit of a fruit that looks somewhat like an apple. Thenutmeg trees are huge and the under-forest is dark.Vanilla is a vine that grows on large trees and cardamomseeds grow at the base of large, ginger-cousin light greenplant that has shoots or runners from which the seeds arepicked. Cinnamon leaves are good for chewing andpepper is hot, green and fresh tasting before it is dried andground to become black pepper. The guides may offeryou a green coconut while you're on the tour and they'revery good. Don't expect a Pina Colada, green coconutsdon't have sweet milk it's more like subtly flavoredwater and the meat is delicious. All along the tour thereare kiosks where tourists can buy packaged spicesincluding the following: turmeric, tandoori, vanilla beansand extract, masala, hot chilies, black pepper (ground orwhole), cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon sticks or powder,saffron (not locally grown but affordable), ginger, andothers. Tours can be expensive so shop around or ask a

reputable hotel to set up the guide and driver. Mr. Mitu iswell known on the island as the best tour guide for spicetour - all tour agents should know how to reach him.

Architectural Tour of Stone Town

Discover the origins of architectural trends in Stone Townwith the aide of local historian, John da Silva. John's tourspoint out subtleties in building structure that the untrainedeye just won't catch. He'll show you how they builtdrainpipes into the walls of local homes only to come outagain at the bottom of the wall to drain. Why did they dothis? Because the streets were so narrow, they put thepipes into the walls so no one would hit his head or catch

his cart on the pipes as he walked by. John will point outold lattice work balconies, decrepit buildings, lightfixtures and more than a handful of carved doors, eachwith its own story. You pace the tour by the questions youask. This tour is highly recommended. To book Mr. DaSilva, contact a local tour operator (see Listings Section).

Language

Swahili is the predominant language but all shopkeepers

and tourist-related business people know at least some

English, especially "How much?" The Muslim call to

prayer is, of course, in Arabic and you'll hear Arabichere and there on the streets in addition to Indian

languages. And don't be surprised when local people say"Ciao, como va?" there are enough Italian tourists here

that some shopkeepers have signs in Italian.

Things to see outside of Stone Town

Ruins

If you are interested in visiting ruins, Zanzibar has manythat are well-marked and whose entrance fees areaffordable. The Zanzibar Government has developed a

receipt called "Ancient Monuments of Zanzibar" foUnguja and for the price of TSh 200 it allows you to visitthe following:

. The Old Fort (Stone Town)

. Hamamni Turkish Baths (Stone Town)

. Maruhubi Palace Ruins

. Mtoni Palace Ruins

. Kidichi Persian Baths

. Kizimbani Baths

. Fukuchani Ruins

. Tumbatu Ruins

. Dunga Palace of the Mwinyi Mkuu

. Mangapwani Cave and Cave Chambers (twolocations)

. Bi Khole Ruins

. Kizimkazi Mosque

The fee is meant to help preserve the monuments andkeep them clean. The ticket is good for one day only but itwould be near impossible to see all of these things in oneday unless you went at a racer's pace and hit the wind and

the tide just right in order to get to and from TumbatuSome of the ruins are well marked and easy to find ifyou're self-driving but others are almost unmarked andovergrown requiring a driver in order to find them. Insome cases there will be a guide to tell you a brief history,but often there isn't even a person to collect your moneyor check your receipt.

Maruhubi Ruins

Built by Sultan Barghash in 1880 as a day retreat for himand a place to house some of his many concubines, thispalace had large Persian baths, the only part of thestructure left with a roof. It burned down in 1899. Located

on the Bububu road, just outside of town, it's a popularfirst stop on the way to Spice Tour. The gardens still havecoconut trees and there are old pools full of lily padsleftover columns and wandering cows. It's a pretty site onthe ocean. There's a keeper that stays by the drivewayselling curios and he'll write your receipt but he does notgive tours or answer questions.

Mtoni Ruins

These ruins are the mangled and sometimes repairedremains of Sultan Said's main residence. It is said that hespent three or four days at Mtoni and split the remainderof the week among his many other plantations and

palaces, and that Mtoni was clearly his favourite. Hisdaughter Salme described it as nothing short of Edenbrimming with flowers and peacocks, close to the oceanfull of well-cared-for people, and surrounded by largetrees. The ruins are now in an odd state. It is obvious thatvarious repairs have been attempted over the years, butthe only solid wall at present is the front wall that looksmore like one end of a warehouse (which it was used forduring World War I). The Palace, at one time, had manyflights of stairs, courtyards, bedrooms and baths. Look inthe back for many hallways and rooms with walls that stilhave the built-in alcoves. There are baths that you can


9/22

Page

21

enter but watch out for bats. This is the house where theSultan kept the better part of his harem. Sometimes there'sa keeper who will sign your receipt. He'll show youaround but he was not able to answer any of our questionsthat were posed in Kiswahili.

Kidichi is a village in the heart of the spice plantationsand it is home to bath ruins but this time the baths were

built in 1850 by Sultan Said for his Persian wife,Sherehezade, also known as Binte Irich Mizra orSchesade. At Bububu center take a right at the sign thatreads Kizimbani and carry on up the road until thewhitewashed baths appear at the top of the hill. The bathsare the only ones of their kind on the island, wherevisitors can see the Persian detailing on the inner walls. Instrict following of the Muslim faith it is consideredsacrilege to create images of anything living, includinganimals and people. The Kidichi bath ruins are unusual inthat they exhibit interesting and obvious portrayals ofbirds and flowers in the bas-relief detailing of the innerwalls. Built by Persian craftsmen, who were brought toZanzibar by Sultan Said specifically for the purpose ofbuilding Sherehezade's baths, they were used by theprincess to refresh herself after a journey in the country orafter hunting. Sherehezade was apparently something ofan avid hunter, a very unusual pastime for a woman in aMuslim community. There's a nice young guide for thebaths who is almost always present. He'll want to see yourpink receipt to sign it so be sure you have it ready for him.He'll also sell you one if it's your first stop. He'll give yousome history and information about the baths and may tellyou that these baths are the strongest evidence of Persianinfluence in all of East Africa.

Kizimbani Baths are found on the road along Spice Tour,past the Kidichi baths. They are similar to the KidichiBaths except that they are much plainer, with no Persianinscriptions, animals or flowers depicted on the innerwalls. The Kizimbani baths were built for Sultan Said atabout the same time as the Kidichi baths. Guide isunlikely.

Mangapwani Coral Cave

Oral tradition says that this underground cavern wasdiscovered by a goat that fell in and then bleated until hisshepherd who, following his cry, found him meters belowthe Earth. The shepherd found a natural fresh water springin the cave. The same story does not include informationor rumors about slaves having once been held here insecrecy after the trade had been abolished. People stillbelieve that the cavern contains an outlet onto the beach(when the tide is right). The government has placed astairway allowing for easy descent into the cave wherevisitors can look at strange insects, listen to water drip,stare at the coral rock ceiling and feel the clammy, staleair of a closed room. Dare each other to see who is braveenough to go looking for the fresh spring. Bring aflashlight. There is no guide at the location and it isdifficult to find without a one - ask local villagers andkeep your eyes open for the SMZ sign if you're not being

driven by a guide. The drive will take you on horribleroads past the childhood village and current house oformer Tanzanian President Ali Hassan Minwyi. His isthe only house painted white.

Mangapwani Slave Chambers

If you made it far enough to see the Coral Cave youshould continue on the few kilometers in order to see the

Slave Chambers. After the trade was banned in 1872Arab dealers still continued to transport slaves to theisland before finding buyers and for this they neededsecrecy and so built the Slave Chambers. They're cut fromcoral rock and were allegedly used to conceal slaves atnight. The slaves were chained and yoked whiletransferred from dhow to the chambers. There are fewholes in the chambers and therefore little ventilation. Thiscombined with malnutrition, thirst, disease, andovercrowding caused the death of many slaves beforethey reached the market or were sold to another trader.

Bi (Swahili for 'Lady') Khole was one of Sultan Said's

daughters and with her wealth had an estate built as an outof town getaway. Built on the western side of the island atthe sea, the driveway is visible from the road that goes tothe southeast coast. The sign to the ruins is small but anindication that you are nearing it is the rows of old mangotrees on each side of the road. Local rumor has it thatKhole planted one tree for each of her lovers. Althoughthis is a romantic thought, it is unlikely that it is truebecause the trees may predate her estate. The ruins are aninteresting stop because of the beautiful setting. ThePalace overlooked the ocean and is surrounded by fieldsand trees. Visitors can see the old courtyard and remainsof the Persian baths and fountains. Be careful wanderingaround the ruins; they're still crumbling.

In 1867 David Livingstone delivered a lively lecture at

Cambridge University about the horrors of the slavetrade in Africa. As a result of his speech, four universities

collaborated to form the Universities' Mission to Central

Africa (UMCA). This mission was to be responsible for

the building of the Anglican Church in Stone Town as

well as the St. Mary's School for Freed Slave Girls - in

addition to many other missionary projects on the

mainland.

Mbweni Ruins (not included on the Ancient Monuments

because they are managed by the Mbweni Ruins Hotel)Mbweni ruins was once St. Mary's School for Freed SlaveGirls and was built between 1871 and 1874 by theUMCA. As slaves were freed by the British from illegaldhow traders, a village of freed slaves developed aroundthe mission. At one point there were at least 250 freedslaves living there. Orphan girls and daughters of thefreed slaves attended the school that trained them tobecome teachers for other missions on the mainlandTraining included basic studies such as math, English andgeography and went on to include the religion. The schoohad 60 to 85 students at any given time that it was openThe grounds contained dormitory living quarters


10/22

Page

21

schoolrooms, a chapel and, later, an industrial area. TheChapel had a marble altar with mother of pearl inlay thatis now the altar of St. John's church down the road (alsobuilt by UMCA). The construction of the school wasoverseen by Edward Steere, the same man who designedthe Anglican Church in Stone Town and wrote the firstSwahili-English dictionary. The second headmistress wasa woman by the name of Caroline Thackery who was thecousin of English novelist William Thackery. Sheremained headmistress for 25 years and after retiring, diedat the age of 83 in 1926. She is buried near St. John'sCathedral just near the ruins. By 1917 the school hadclosed and was abandoned even though a part of it hadbeen sold to the Bank of India when the UMCA ran intofiscal trouble. The ruins remained abandoned except forlocals who came to collect water from the cisterns untilthe current owners of the hotel began renovation.

St. John's Church

In Mazizini between Stone Town and the airport andviewable on the right on the way to Mbweni Ruins, thischurch was built in the 1800's by the UMCA and althoughit is in a remote location, it is still used for services fromtime to time.

Beit-el-Ras

Beit-el-Ras was intended to be a palace to house thegrowing family of Sultan Said, and although it was begunin 1847, it had not been completed by the time of hisdeath in 1856. It was a short way up the coast to the northof the Mtoni Palace that served as his main home. SultanSaid's successor Sultan Majid did not finish the house andsome of its stones were later used to complete the BububuRailroad. The remaining ruins were cleared away in 1947to make room for the Teacher's College that was built onthe site . If you're traveling north on the Bububu Road,keep your eyes on the left and when you pass the smallBeit-el-Ras Police Station, you'll be able to see the collegeup the road a little further north.

Bububu is a village just outside of Stone Town to thenorth and it is also the gateway to the Spice Tours.Bububu reportedly got its name from a spring in the areathat made a sound something like 'bububu' as the watercame up out of the ground. There are other rumors aboutthe name of the town but no one is quite sure what theorigin is. The first train in East Africa ran from Bububu toStone Town and the main water source for Stone Town islocated in Bububu. As far as tourists are concerned,there's not much to see in Bububu but it is a good place tostop for fresh fruit if you're on your way to the northcoast. Another claim to fame for Bububu is that it washome to Princess Salme before she moved back to townand met her husband.

Fuji Beach is near Bububu village center, a short walkdown a dirt road if you've been dropped in Bububu bydala-dala. A taxi from town should take you there for nomore than TSh 2,500. There's a bar and restaurant and anice beach for sunbathing and swimming. At night the bar

gets hopping and turns disco especially hot on Sundaynights.

Islands near Stone Town

For most of the islands near Stone Town it is easy to finda boat pilot. Many pilots can be found lingering aroundthe Big Tree down by the harhour. Prices vary dependingon the island and the number of people in the boat

Obviously, the more passengers on board the lower thecost per person. Tour agencies can also arrange boat tripsas wells as most of the better hotels in town.

Prison Island (Changuu) is the most popular island forpeople seeking an island excursion from Stone Town. It isa short boat ride (about 10 minutes) and the snorkeling isexcellent. There's a small beach that can get quitecrowded at high tide but there are other things to doThere's a small trail that circles the island and goes pastruins. Look for the old prison and watch out for gianttortoises and peacocks in the ruins' courtyard. You'll alsopass ruins of an old laundry center, a natural lagoon that

can be quite beautiful if the tide is right, and the oldquarantine housing. A wealthy slave owner who senunruly slaves there for discipline first owned the islandAfter the abolition of slavery the island was inhabited bya British General and was later used as a quarantinestation. There was a prison built on the island after theGeneral had left but it was never used for its intendedpurpose, instead housing quarantined visitors to ZanzibarThere's a restaurant in the large house (formerly theGeneral's) and there is a smaller building that serves as aguesthouse. There's a small fee to go on the island, andmask, fins and snorkel are available for rent in the sameoffice. The snorkeling is surely worth the trip. One of theisland's main attractions are the large land tortoises thatroam around the big house. They aren't dangerous bucould take your hand off at the wrist in one bite so don'taggravate them. Peacocks are also inhabitants of theisland but sadly, some of them have had their longfeathers plucked by uncaring people who won't looknearly so good in them.

Snake Island (Nyoka) doesn't have a beach so is notfrequently visited. There are no known trails on this smallisland that is between Prison and Grave Islands.

Grave Island (Chapwani) is a long and thin island just to

the north of Snake Island; it has graves on it primarilybelonging to the British who suffered casualties whilefighting against Arab slaving ships. There are othergraves dating from the First World War. It's a short boatride from town. There's a nice beach but the island is notgreat for swimming. The guesthouse and the restaurant onthe island are closed so bring your own food and drinks.

Bawe Island is south of Prison and has some of the bestsnorkeling spots in the archipelago. About a 30-minuteboat ride and slightly more expensive than the boat toPrison Island, this island is much less visited. In 1870 theisland was used to anchor the first telegraph cables to


11/22

Page

21

Zanzibar linking it with Aden, South Africa and theSeychelles. There are no facilities on the island although ahotel has been in the making for some time. Bring yourown food and drinks because you can't even buy water onBawe. The snorkeling is excellent and so is the beach atall times of the tide. There's not much to do on the islandbut sit on the beach but there are some trees that provideshade allowing fair-skinned people to make a whole dayof it.

Sandbar Island is an island only at low tide. It's alsolocated south of Prison Island. It's a great place forsnorkeling, for a picnic or for getting a sunburn (there'snothing but sand so bring your own shade in the form ofhats or parasols). It's a popular destination when the moonis full because of the view of sunset and moonrise. Boatscan be arranged near the Big Tree and they leave at about6:00 p.m. and come back when you're ready. People bringtheir own food and drinks and build a fire in a pit. Afterthe sun sets it's very dark on the island and you can't seemuch but once the moon comes up and loses its rednessfrom the horizon it's like being under a natural floodlight.The city takes on a special appearance under the red moonand looks beautiful too. As the tide continues to go out,the island gets bigger and people walk along the sandbarappearing as if they're walking on water. If you're visitingStone Town during the full moon and the tide is right try to go to Sandbar Island for the moonrise. It's also goodfor day picnics, snorkeling and diving but keep in mindthe lack of shade and equatorial sun.

Chumbe Island is Tanzania's first Marine National Parkand it is also home to a Nature reserve that boasts anabundance of local birds and flora. It is also known asChumbe Island Coral Park (CHICOP). Along withestablishing Chumbe Island as a conservation area,several practical steps have been taken to preserve it;there are permanent moorings for boats landing atChumbe and this prevents the need to drop anchor and killcoral. Only authorized tour companies are allowed tomoor at Chumbe in an attempt to keep irresponsibleboaters from causing damage to the reef. (You will needto make special arrangements with a tour company to finda boat pilot who is permitted to moor at Chumbe.) Naturetrails have been set up on the island as well as aneducational facility (mostly for locals). There's alighthouse on the island that is slated to be converted intoan observation tower and there is an old mosque that was

built in an Indian style and is unique to Tanzania. If youhave time, try to visit Chumbe even though it is a littleexpensive. There's a nice restaurant on the island and theprice of dinner includes boat transport. Keep in mind thatChumbe is a private island and only CHICOP approvedboat pilots are allowed to moor there. Ask a tour companyto arrange a trip or call direct.

Services in Town

Embassies

There are a small number of consulates in Zanzibar butthe capital city of Dar-es-Salaam is where you need to goif you need an embassy. If you lose your passport you'llneed to visit the Ministry of the Interior in Zanzibar inorder to get off the island. The Ministry can supply youwith papers to get you home or to Dar where you canarrange for more temporary papers from your EmbassySee the Listings Section for a complete embassy list.

TVZanzibar had the first color TV station in East Africa,

and in 1972 the first color television broadcast in East

Africa was accomplished. The new technology was adream of the first Zanzibari President, Karume, who was

assassinated before the first broadcast. Ironically, the

television technology that Karume brought to Zanzibar

was used to cover the trial of his murder. Court TV is

possibly another Zanzibari first.

Banks & Money

In the last few years, Zanzibar has opened up dramaticallyto the free world, resulting in some changes in the rules

for tourists and currency. For instance, two years agotourists had to pay for almost everything in hard currencywhereas today it is possible for tourists to pay departuretax in TShillings (but it is wise to always keep a stash ofdollars just in case). Travelers Cheques checks areaccepted only at large hotels and some restaurants andeven then, sometimes grudgingly. You can convert themto cash at the People's Bank of Zanzibar, the Forexbureaus at some hotels (International, Mazson's and theTembo) and at the Forex offices at the port and airportThese bureaus will also exchange most hard currenciesfor TShillings.

MedicalThere are several local hospitals in Stone Town butourists should always try Zanzibar Medical andDiagnostic Centre . The office is ideal for any minormedical attention needed. While traveling in East Africaa trip to the doctor is recommended should you have aquestion or notice that you're feeling a little off. Highfever and headache could be tip-off signs for malaria, andyou should seek medical attention immediately at theappearance of these symptoms.

Tourist Information

Tourist information can be obtained from the Zanzibar

Tourist Corporation located in the Livingstone House onthe Bububu Road just outside of Stone Town. The officedoesn't have much, but can help to book beach bungalowsand bandas (another word for bungalow but usually meanas a modest accommodation on the beach) on the EastCoast of the island. They also sell maps that can bepurchased from almost any shop in town that caters totourists.

Tour Operators

There are many tour operators on the island, many ofwhom have offices in Stone Town. Tour companies canarrange anything from hotel reservations to Spice Tours


12/22

Page

21

They'll book a car, a guide, and they'll try to satisfylanguage requirements as well. There are French, Italian,and German-speaking guides available if booked inadvance and if luck has them on the island. Touroperators are excellent for booking trips to Jozani Forestor the small islands off the coast. Tour companies changehands and reputations rise and fall. Ask the hotel whereyou're staying for reliable tour companies.

Getting There

Visitors entering Zanzibar are required to have a passport.Nationals from Denmark, Great Britain, Ireland, Finland,Iceland, Kenya, Norway, Singapore, Sweden, Zimbabwe,most Caribbean island countries, and many island statesof the Pacific and Indian Oceans are not required to havea Tanzanian visa for entry, but all others must. A touristvisa can be obtained in your home country at theTanzanian Mission or Tourism Offices or they can beobtained at the border. Prices have been going up forvisas and vary depending on the applicants nationality.For some reason, the prices between advance purchaseand "at the door" purchase seem always to be different.

Arrival by boat or by air will land you in the immigrationline but sometimes, depending on time of day and day ofthe week, you may not have to go through immigration atthe port. There the customs check is sporadic, but it isquick when required. A piece of paper that is absolutelyrequired for entering by way of the airport is proof of ayellow fever vaccination. You will not be allowed onZanzibar without this card, but it is not always checked atthe port. You should have the vaccination if travelling inEast Africa whether or not it is required.

Travel Agents in Stone Town

Air

Travelling to and from Zanzibar by air is possible via theairlines listed below. Schedules vary from season toseason, and some flights are only once or twice a week. Ifcoming from Europe, it can be tough if not impossible tofind direct flights. Direct flights are usually in the form ofcharters from Italy, except for the charters operated by AirEurope and Swiss Air (BelAir) that fly weekly during thehigh seasons (check with your travel agent for moredetails on these charters). All other European-originatingflights will get you as far as Mombasa, or Dar-es-Salaam

(frequently with stops in Nairobi) or Muscat, Oman, fromwhich you'll need connecting flights to Zanzibar. If you'recoming from America you'll have to get to Europe firstand then catch a flight to East Africa.

Air Tanzania (ATC)

Gulf Air

Kenya Airways

Precision Air

Various charter companies also operate flights to andfrom Zanzibar but schedules are subject to passengervolume. Some operators are:

Coastal TravelEagle Aviation (to Kenya

destinations only)

ZanAir

Airlines that fly into and have offices in Dar-es-Salaamare as follows (phone numbers are listed in the ListingsSection):

Aeroflot

Air India Air Tanzania

Alliance

British Airways

Ethiopian Airlines

Gulf Air

KLM

Kenya Airways

SAA- SAL

Swissair

Air Zimbabwe

Arrival by Air

The first of a series of three checks upon arrival aZanzibar International Airport is the health check. Youare required to present proof of a yellow fever vaccinationupon your arrival. You will not be permitted entry toZanzibar if you're not carrying this document. Once yourproof as been reviewed, you will be given a small piece ofpaper that you'll need to show to the guards at the door asproof that you checked in at the health desk. Next, ontoImmigration, where, even if you're arriving from Dar-es-Salaam, theyll want to see your passport, know whereyou're staying and possibly ask you to fill in an entry cardYour passport will be stamped (Zanzibar likes to think it's

autonomous from Tanzania) and you may be given yetanother small piece of paper to hold onto as proof thatyou went through the Immigration line. Customs ismandatory at the airport and a cursory check will be madeof your luggage resulting in a chalk mark on each bag toget you past the guards and out the door.

Boats to or from Dar-es-Salaam, Pemba, Tanga, and

Mombasa

A recent law passed in Tanzania prohibits tourists fromtravelling in wooden crafts, which prevents tourists fromtaking dhows to or from the Tanzanian mainland. Thislaw was passed after a German tourist pitched overboard

from a dhow and drowned, ruining the fun for the rest ofus who might want to spend eight to twelve hours on awooden boat without shelter from the sun and withoutfood, water, or plumbing facilities. It is a silly law and hassilly exceptions such as sunset cruises around Zanzibarharbor such as is offered by Mtoni Marine.

Although dhows are no longer a possible means otransport for tourists in Tanzanian waters, there are manyother boats to choose from. If you have your heart set on adhow ride from mainland to island, you can legally boarda dhow in Mombasa that will take you, most likely, to


13/22

Page

21

Pemba. The dhows have no services, toilets, or cafeteriasand can be dangerous in high swells. Some people havehad lovely dhow rides but if the winds die or are light,your trip can last well over eight hours.

Boat tickets are available from kiosks at the port entrancein the Malindi corner of Stone Town. Keep in mind that,after you buy your ticket, you'll need to pay the Port Tax

of TSh 500 (if you're going to a Tanzanian destination)and it's a good idea to do this the day before departure justto prevent last minute rushing. Many ticket collectors willallow you to pay the tax while boarding but you'll getnasty looks from other passengers who have to stand andwait in the hot sun while you fish for change.

Azam Marine

Sea Bus (1 & 2) operated by Azam Marine leaves theZanzibar Harbor 3 times a day for Dar-es-Salaam. Bothcabins are very clean, air-conditioned and withcomfortable seating. Board early to ensure a window seat.For some reason foreigners are occasionally given the

first class cabin on a second class fare. Most trips acrossthe harbor are comfortable unless you're susceptible toseasickness in which case Dramamine or some other formof motion sickness medicine may be advisable. Beprepared to see mattresses, chickens, tires, and otherforms of cargo aboard. Water, soda, and snacks areavailable on board in the second class cabin by the door.This area also serves as the prayer area and at 3:45 p.m. itis likely that a member of the crew will be saying hisprayers with a prayer mat laid out in front of him. Prayerstake place while other crew members try to servicerequests from the snack counter without disturbing him orhis prayers, but the mat can block the fridge. There isusually some form of video entertainment in the way ofbad American movies, subtitled Indian movies or Mr.Bean episodes that require no knowledge of spokenlanguage. The ride is anywhere from an hour and a half totwo hours.

Mega Speed Liners

Talieh and Sepideh are two large modern ferries thattravel from Dar to Unguja to Pemba to Mombasa toTanga - not necessarily in that order.

Sea Express and Flying Horse are two other ferriesbetween Unguja and Dar. These are the fastest boats to

Dar (assuming they're running) and the price is roughlythe same as the other ferries. They take anywhere fromone and a quarter hours to one and three-quarter hours toreach Dar. They are hydrofoils that were originally builtfor the North Sea by the Russians or East Germans andare therefore not built for hot weather. They are carpetedand retain the scents of past sea sickness; the airconditioner sometimes fails and the windows don't openand there's no outdoor deck like there are on Mega SpeedLiners and the Azam Marine Boats. Passage on theseboats are usually priced slightly less than that of the MegaSpeed Liners or Azam Marine.

Port Tax

For boat trips to other Tanzanian locations the tax is TSh500 and must be paid at the port tax office inside the gateon the left. Ask a porter or anyone standing around andthey'll be happy to show it to you. Sometimes you'll betold that you have also to visit immigration on your wayout, but most likely they'll be more interested in a cursoryinspection of your bags on your way in. There is probablya fee for leaving to another country but it wont be nearlyas high as the $20 airport tax.

Porters

There are many men hanging around the port who will behappy to help you on board with your luggage. TSh 500 isthe usual rate for receiving help from one of the portersand a little extra for more luggage is greatly appreciated.

Culture

Eid-al-Fitr is the festival at the end of Ramadhan, themonth of fasting. Also known as Eid or Sikukuu (days ofcelebration, festival or holiday), this festival is a time of

gift giving and of giving alms. The fasting of Ramadhanis meant to remind people what life is like for their lessfortunate brethren and the alms giving at Eid (known asZakat-el-Fitr) is a continuation along the same idea. Bothfasting and the giving of alms are two of the five pillars ofthe Islamic faith. Because the Islamic calendar is differentfrom that of Christians, the dates for Ramadhan and Eidchange every year by about 11 days so check a localIslamic calendar if you're looking to visit Zanzibar duringEid. Ramadhan is a holy month in which drinkingsmoking, and eating in public are prohibited. Dress codesshould be strictly adhered to. Some restaurants are closedduring this month and outside of town it can be difficultto get any food at all during daytime hours duringRamadhan. All three discos mentioned above are closedduring Ramadhan. Eid is a nice time to see all the littlegirls in their new dresses and the boys in their newsneakers/trainers. The girls wear kohl around the eyeregardless of age, and the boys run around firing capguns. There is a general feeling of celebration as peoplego from house to house visiting friends and relatives andattend Taarab concerts and discos at night. Ramadhanlasts for one full cycle of the moon and is followeddirectly by Eid, which lasts for four days. The festivitiescan be seen at the Mnazi Moja grounds across from theNational Museum or at the Karikoo fairgrounds out by theMain Post Office.

The newest of the major religions, Islam was founded bythe Prophet Mohammed who was born around 570 ADsomewhere near Mecca in present-day Saudi ArabiaMohammed received messages from God at Mount Hiranear Mecca. After being chased out of his hometown hemoved to Medina where, years later, he began convertingpeople to Islam. He worked at converting people forsomewhere between ten and twenty years before dying in632. The five tenets of Islam are prayer (five times a day)testimony of faith, fasting (Ramadhan), alms-giving (Eid-el-Fitr) and the Pilgrimage to Mecca (Haj). The Muslim


14/22

Page

21

calendar is different from the Christian calendar in that isstarts on the Christian equivalent of July 16, 622 (the dayMohammed fled Mecca for Medina) and features a yearof only 354 days based on lunar cycles of 29 to 30 daysper month.

Zanzibar Music Festival

Every July this festival runs for one week and features

artists and shows from around the world. Most of theperformances are held at the Old Fort but there are othervenues in town such as at Bwawani Plaza. Taarab andNgoma are the big sell-outs during this festival but youcan also catch performances from Arabia, Asia, andpossibly Europe. Keep in mind that you'll have to do quitea bit of asking around to find out where the shows are.They may be advertised on radio only and if you can'tunderstand Swahili, you'll have to get the information byasking residents.

Mwaka Kogwa

A four-day-long celebration, Mwaka Kogwa is best

observed in Makunduchi, a village in the south part ofZanzibar. The origins of this holiday are Zoroastrian (aPersian religion older than Islam). It is a celebration of theNew Year and some of the events include huge bonfiresand mock fights. These fights are between men whodefend themselves with banana stems (in place of thesticks that were formerly used), and this fighting, inwhich everyone gets a chance, is said to let everyone airtheir grievances and so clear the air as the new year rollsin. As the men fight, the women stroll through the fieldssinging songs about life and love. They are dressed intheir best clothes and are taunted by the men after thefight is over. The festivities vary from village to villagebut Makunduchi is where the biggest events take place.All are welcome for the festival because it is a local beliefthat anyone without a guest for this holiday is unhappy.The holiday is held every year around the third week ofJuly, but check with a local tour operator to get theofficial dates. The dates are based on the Shirazi calendarand coincide with the Persian New Year called Nairuz.

Taarab

Taarab is a form of local music that is a mix of soundsand styles from India, Arabia, and Africa. Taarab showsare as much about audience participation as they are aboutmusic. Although the music may be a bit harsh for Westernears, the show itself is great theater. Part of the tradition isfor women to give money to the singer during theperformance. This involves a very showy ascent to thestage and an exhibition of the night's eveningwear, a slowapproach to the singer and maybe a tease before givingover the 'tip'. The audience howls at the antics of the otheraudience members and the Taarab singer carries on withthe back up of a forty-piece band that includes horns,strings, and drums. Especially impressive is a horn-blower with the white cloth. Check the Old Fort forperformances and check with hotel and restaurant staff tosee if shows have been announced on the radio.

Ngoma

Ngoma is traditional African dance and singingaccompanied by fast rhythmic drumming. There areperformances around the island but they can be difficulto find and may be private. Try the Old Fort in town andask around at hotels and restaurants. Some restaurantsfeature Ngoma on certain nights (Friday night aEmerson's & Green Tower Top Restaurant is Ngomanight). Local shows are much longer than Western showsa Taarab/Ngoma night's schedule may last five hoursNgoma was originally performed at weddings, harvesfestivals, circumcision ceremonies and other celebrations.

International Triathlon and Marathon

In early November 1998, Zanzibar plans to host its thirdAnnual International Triathlon and Marathon. The pasttwo years' events have proven successful in drawingcompetitors from Africa, Asia, and Europe. Both eventsare Olympic regulation lengths and cover some of themost beautiful spots on the island. For more informationcontact The Secretary, Zanzibar International MarathonCommittee.

Zanzibar International Film Festival

Zanzibar was the home of the first Zanzibar InternationaFilm Festival held July, 11-18, 1998. The committeeintends for the festival to be an annual event so look for itagain in 1999. There are many categories for competitionand non-competition. Films from all over the world willbe shown in short and full feature lengths, with a focus onfilms from East Africa, Persia, Arab states, India, andother Indian Ocean countries. Competitors for theSheherezade Award will be submitting films that deawith the topic of illusion and reality. There will beChildren's Panoramas and programs dealing withwomen's and environmental issues in addition to a specialworkshop aimed at examining the problems involved inIntellectual Property Rights and piracy. More informationcan be had off the Web site at www.zanzibar.org/ziff.

Dhow Racing

Also in July the Dhow races start in the ZanzibaHarbour. Hotels and Tour Agencies will have moreinformation on when the races start and from where is thebest viewing.

Freddie Mercury (Bismallah!) of Queen

Born Farok Bulsara on September 5, 1946 in Zanzibar,Freddie Mercury succeeded in becoming one of, if not

the, most famous Asian pop star in the UK and America.

Freddie's parents are Parsee, members of the ancient

Zoroastrian religion that originated in Iran. Many

Parsees immigrated to India during and after the Arab

conquest of Iran, resulting in a sizable Parsee population

in India of which the Bulsaras are descendents. Theymoved from Gujarat to Zanzibar before Freddie's birth.

Freddie's father worked as a civil servant in the British

Protectorate that was Zanzibar and his mother worked as

a cashier at Zanzibar's High Court. The family was

comfortable. At the age of seven Freddie was sent to


15/22

Page

21

India for boarding school and from there he went to

London, attended University, and started his rock 'n' roll

career as the lead singer of the pop group, Queen. In

1964 the Bulsaras moved to the UK to avoid a pending

revolution in Zanzibar. A trace of Freddie's Zanzibariroots can be heard in one of the most famous of Queen's

songs, "Bohemian Rhapsody" which contains the Arabic

word "Bismallah". This word had special political

significance in Zanzibar for a brief period for a group

who used it to express discontent. The word itself is used

all the time at the commencement of anything. Queen's

use of 'Bismallah' was most likely unrelated to the

political usage in Zanzibar which itself was accidental.

In India, Freddie attended a private school called St.

Peter's just outside of Bombay. It was here, in this

English school, that Freddie adopted his English name

and stopped using the name Farok (meaning Lucky in

Parsee) and started his own music group, the Hectics.

Before the age of 20 Freddie was in the UK with his

family and, although they were interested to see him

become a doctor or lawyer, he pursued a career in thearts and attended Ealing College of Art. At College he

reportedly met the other members of Queen and the rest

is rock 'n' roll history.

Queen had numerous hits from the 1970's through the

1980's ('We are the Champions', 'Another One Bites the

Dust'), and Freddie worked with other famous pop artistsincluding David Bowie ('Under Pressure') and shared the

stage with many others during the Live Aid concert in

1985. Queen had a reputation for bright lights, big

sounds, and concerts that rocked. Freddie had an onstage

persona that lit up TV screens and kept women

screaming. Even into the late 1980's and early 1990's

when he took on a post-Village People gay look complete

with moustache, the women still screamed for him. His

fans came from all genders, age groups, and

nationalities. He kept in touch with his family includingweekly visits to his parents. On November 24, 1991,

Freddie Mercury died in London of bronchial pneumonia

brought on by AIDS. He was cremated in the Zoroastrian

tradition and leaves his parents, Jer and Bomi, his sister,

Kashmira, and his boyfriend, Jim Hutton.

Beaches

Zanzibar is home to some of the most pristine beaches inthe world and with white sand, palm trees, gorgeousshells, and amazing shades of blue and turquoise watersthey are a highlight of the island. Depending on whetheryou're looking for a great dive or a dark tan, there's abeach on Zanzibar that will be perfect. Getting to thebeaches is easy and it 's difficult to get lost but the qualityof roads varies a lot depending on the destination. Publictransportation does run to the beaches but the Basi (wood-sided buses from town) that work the routes to the beachvillages generally take about two to four times longer thanthe actual drive and can be hot, crowded, anduncomfortable. There are only four major roads leadingout of Stone Town and most of the beaches can be found

by either the road leading north (Nungwi and Matemwe)or the road going East that leads to the East Coast andbranches off toward the southern point of Kizimkazi.

North Coast

Matemwe

Matemwe village is located on the North East Coast of

Zanzibar. The drive from Stone Town takes between oneand one and half-hours over fairly decent roadsMatemwe is a small fishing village and is home to twoguesthouse establishments, Matemwe Bungalows and HBeach Bungalows. Matemwe Bungalows is a favoriteamong tourists and ex-pats because of its remote locationand excellent positioning of the bungalows. For guestslooking for peace and quiet and white sand, this is theultimate in beach side relaxation. There is a dive center inMatemwe that can be used by guests of the bungalows orday-trippers. Matemwe Bungalows has self-containedbungalows as well as shared facilities and full board isrecommended if not essential. The food is excellent!

H Beach Bungalows is located just south of MatemweBungalows and offers the same remote peace aMatemwe Bungalows with more modest service and alower price. Highly recommended for budget travelers, HBeach Bungalows has a great view of the ocean as well asclean, functioning, facilities and access to the DiveAdventures' dive center at Matemwe Bungalows. Fulboard is essential unless you'd like to pop over toMatemwe Bungalows for lunch or dinner.

Matemwe is ideally located for snorkelers and diverbecause of its proximity to Mnemba Island atoll and

Nungwi. Some of the best diving off Zanzibar is reportedto be around Mnemba Island and for experienced diversthere are some challenging dives off Mnemba andNungwi.

Not far off the shore of Matemwe is Mnemba Island andits surrounding atoll. Arguably the location of some of thebest diving off Zanzibar, the island is also home to awonderful set of bungalows run by South Africa'sConservation Corporation. Staying on Mnemba is morelike visiting very hospitable friends than staying at aresort, but resort it is. Mnemba Club has diving, fishingwater-skiing, windsurfing, and snorkeling, not to mention

an amazing location, an incredible white sand beach thatsurrounds the island, and the clearest, bluest water I'veever seen. The bungalows are very open so you canexpect to find crabs wandering around your laundrybasket after you get back from having the ultimatelyromantic dinner on the beach. Dinner tables are set inchesfrom the surf and lit with small lanterns as tiki torches andplaced nearby. The food is excellent. The atoll is home toquite a few dolphins and you can expect to see themregularly and even swim with them if you can catch themThe hosts of the island are very well educated on all thewildlife (flora and fauna) on the island and in the waterand can answer most, if not all, of your questions. For


16/22

Page

21

further study, the club provides a reading room withseveral books on nature study. For rainy days there's avideo room and the bar is stocked with all the usualsupplies plus backgammon and cards. There are only tenbungalows on the island and the atmosphere is one ofprivacy. Mnemba Club is a magical place to visit and theprices reflect it. Highly recommended, but sadly not ineveryone's budget.

Nungwi (Ras Nungwi)

Ras is the Swahili word for Point and will be seen beforethe names of many villages located on points orpeninsulas. Ras Nungwi is possibly the best swimmingspot on the island because of the depth of the water justoff the West Point. Many beaches on the East Coast loseso much water during low tide that swimmers must walkover 1 km to the reef in order to swim in water that'sabove the knees yet below the 38 degree mark on thethermometer.

Just around Nungwi village there are several guesthouses

Documents

Travel Guide to Zanzibar