Tour Notes

Overland from the Sahara to the Tour Duration – 55 Days Heartlands of West Africa

Tour Rating Fitness ●●●○○ | Off the Beaten Track ●●●●● | Culture ●●●●● | History ●●●○○ | Wildlife ●●●○○ Tour Pace Busy Tour Highlights

A unique journey across Morocco, Western Sahara, Mauritania, Senegal, Gambia, Guinea Bissau, Guinea, Liberia, Sierra Leone, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Togo and Benin

Travel through some of the most untouched wilderness on the planet Discover the untouched Bijagos Archipelago off the coast of little-known Guinea Bissau A chance to see fantastic birdlife on the Atlantic coast at Djoudj National Park Camp wild under a vast Saharan sky Experience traditional mask dances in Senegal and Guinea Bissau Fascinating cultural

interaction with different ethnic groups such as the Guere, Dozo and Senoufo Colourful ritualistic mask dances of the Dan and the Senoufo Witness a traditional voodoo festival Visit the fishing village of Elmina, home to an imposing slave castle

Tour Map

Tour Essentials Accommodation: Mix of hotels, guesthouses, fixed camps and nights wild camping Included Meals: Daily breakfast (B), plus lunches (L) and dinners (D) as shown in the itinerary Group Size: Maximum 16 (you may be joined by travellers from companies other than

Undiscovered Destinations) Start Point: Marrakech, Morocco End Point: Cotonou, Benin Transport: 4WD, public ferry, motorboat Countries: Morocco, Western Sahara, Mauritania, Senegal, Gambia, Guinea Bisssau, Guinea, Liberia, Sierra Leone, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Togo and Benin

From the Sahara to the Ocean Join this astonishing expedition across the Sahara and deep into West Africa. A truly authentic experience that takes in Morocco, Western Sahara, Mauritania, Senegal, Gambia, Guinea Bissau, Guinea, Liberia, Sierra Leone, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Togo and Benin. Experience local authentic cultures: the most isolated Berber villages in the high Sarhro Mountains, and cave-dwelling families. Meet the legendary Reguibat and Saharawi nomads of the still untamed Western Sahara, currently part of Morocco. The Moorish nomads and camel herders, to fishermen living at the edge of the desert on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean. In the south visit sacred forests where animistic traditional religions are still practiced, witness fetish and shrines in remote villages, tribal kings, dancing masks and initiations in the sacred Archipelago. We will meet “timeless” men and women and visit historical sites such as Marrakech, Dakhla the ancient capital of Rio de Oro, Saint Louis, first capital of the former French West African Colonies, Dakar, the most cosmopolitan West African metropolis, Goré the slave-trade island, Bolama a forgotten capital in the forest. In Guinea-Bissau we sail to the Bijagos Islands, where local customs are at their strongest and unusual wildlife dwells, then return to the mainland to travel through the lands of the Fulani, stopping in small villages and explore the stunning highlands of the Fouta Djalon range. In Guinea we see mask dances of ancient secret societies, the incredible ‘living bridges’ of the rainforest, and chimpanzees. Moving on to Sierra Leone we stay on lush tropical islands and discover delightful fishing villages, gorgeous beaches and the troubling history of the slave trade. From here we head to the diamond belt of Sierra Leone, meeting those who seek their fortune and learning how diamonds have played such a fateful role in the country’s history. In Liberia we explore the heritage of this unusual country, founded by freed Afro-American slaves in the 19th century and quite different to others in the region. Ivory Coast offers us the opportunity to witness the incredible ‘living bridges’ of the rainforest and see the amazing mask dances of the Dan and Guere people, as well as the rather bizarre ‘cathedral in the forest’ - the vast and opulent basilica at Yamoussoukro. As we return to the coast we travel through old colonial settlements dotted with European forts and charming colonial buildings, on our way to Accra. Our final two countries, Togo and Benin, are home to the followers of voodoo and we have excellent opportunities to learn about this much misunderstood religion, seeing traditional ceremonies and dances that are among the most fascinating spectacles in West Africa. This is an exploratory tour that often travels through remote parts of West Africa, allowing you to see a number of different countries in a short space of time, and where the visit of a ‘foreigner’ is often an exceptional event. Perfect for those that are big on ambition but short on time, this trip delves into the magic and mystery of an ever-enchanting region. West Africa rarely fails to cast a spell on those who visit.

Tour Itinerary Notes While our intention is to adhere to the day-by-day itinerary as printed below, a degree of flexibility is built in. Overnight stops may vary from those suggested and on occasions alternative accommodation, of a similar standard to that named below, will be used. Tour Guide This tour is generally led by Italian Alberto Nicheli who has been living in West Africa since 1985, although it was back in 1972 that he organised his first trans-Saharan expedition. Alberto’s sense of adventure and huge amount of experience makes him ideal to lead this tour. He has a profound knowledge and understanding of African art and of the many traditions and customs of the people who inhabit these remote territories. Alberto has worked with and handled the logistics for leading companies such as National Geographic and the Discovery Channel. He has worked on archaeological and ethnological expeditions to investigate customs and traditions of the Tuareg people and pre-historic rock art in the Sahara. Without doubt to travel with Alberto will only add to the experience of what is a unique expedition.

Itinerary Day 1 – Marrakech Arrival in Marrakech. Transfer to a comfortable hotel in the heart of Marrakech. Day 2 - The High Atlas Leaving Marrakech, we climb the High Atlas range with spectacular views up to the Tizi n Test pass, 2000m altitude. We stop at Ait Benhaddou, a beautiful adobe Ksar (fortified village), which is still partially inhabited, and sits on the ancient caravan route linking Marrakech with the Sahara. The area has also been the setting for many famous movies including Lawrence of Arabia. We will arrive in the evening at Ouarzazate, a large oasis at the edge of the desert. Overnight in a comfortable hotel. (BLD) Day 3 – The Secret Valley We will leave the main track to explore the less frequently visited regions of the Djebel (mountains) Sarhro. We will follow a small, remote track that climbs rocky valleys through a breathtaking landscape of mountains and desert. The goal will be to reach a tiny village in a “secret paradise valley” that we have recently discovered. Hidden in a narrow depression and invisible to the surrounding highlands, this green miracle is an oasis with a tiny creek and waterfalls. We arrive in the evening at the Zagora Oasis. Overnight in a comfortable hotel. (BLD) Days 4 and 5 - Dunes From Mhamid, where the Sahara begins, our 4x4 will enter a region of large dunes called Erg Chegaga. We will cross the dunes to reach the spectacular landscape of Iriqui saltwater lake where we may see fossils. We will continue towards Icht. Day 4 overnight in a comfortable fixed camp with beds, restaurant and facilities, day 5 overnight in a comfortable hotel. (BLD)

Day 6 – The Caravan Route and Ancient Fort Travel in a landscape of mountains, valleys and large oases of palms. The road will bring us to Guelmim, an ancient caravan terminal. Here we will discover the remains of the ancient Trans-Sahara trade. We will primarily travel along the coast following the migration routes of paleo-arctic birds that migrate to Africa every year during the season. We visit a ghostly military fort which still ‘guards’ the former borders between the French protectorate of Morocco and the Spanish Sahara. Here we feel like we are on the set of an old French foreign legion movie. An afternoon arrival at the comfortable Ksar Tafnidilt hotel, built using local material in a beautiful Saharan style. The hotel is managed by our friends, Guy and Magali, a French couple. Magali is a desert expert; she won the “Rally des Gazelle,” the most gruelling off-track competition reserved for female teams. Ksar Tifnidit is a meeting point for passionate Sahara travellers. Overnight at Ksar Tifnidit (BLD) Day 7 – Estuaries and Desert We leave Tifnidit crossing a steep range of dunes and arrive to the region of the Dra estuary visited only by the most intrepid travellers. Between the cliffs and the Atlantic Ocean there are no paved roads. We will discover tiny temporary settlements of fishermen, ghost colonial military posts, dunes, and camels. Leaving the coastline, we find our way along a river bed in a large canyon, the only possible path between high dunes, cliffs and the ocean. We return to our hotel. Overnight at Ksar Tifnidit (BLD) Day 8 – Desert Lagoons From Tan-Tan, the road follows an exciting route through a crag that separates the desert and the ocean. We visit the Naila lagoon, separated from the ocean by rows of dunes. It is the largest salt lake in Morocco and a protected area of great natural beauty with prolific migratory birdlife. We are scheduled for a late afternoon arrival at the small town of Tarfaya on the Juby Cape, less than 100 km away from the Canary Islands. Tarfaya is a former “Aeropostale” base, which pioneered airmail transport from Europe to Africa and Latin America. Overnight in Hotel Casamar or similar (BLD) Days 9 and 10 – Western Sahara – The Forbidden Track In Laayoune we will meet our local guide, a nomad from a Sharawi tribe who will lead us through three days of a true desert expedition in the Western Sahara. The former Spanish Sahara colony has been the site of a long war between the Polisario Armed Front and the Moroccan army and is presently part of Morocco. Since the second half of the seventies and due to this long “sand war,” this region has been off-limits to travellers. Until today no peace treaty has been signed, but a cease-fire is respected. We are proud to be the first to bring intrepid travellers to the vast, sandy regions of Saguia El Hamra and Tiris Gharbia. In this true Saharan expedition, we will cross large dunes and get off the tracks to discover wells frequented by long caravans belonging to the legendary Reguibat nomads. We will be camping on Days 9 and 10. (BLD) Camping Our modern tents are provided with mattresses and are totally closed with mosquito nets at the windows. Tents are placed on a large mat that further isolates them from the soil. A warm dinner will be prepared by a cook and served at tables. You will need to bring your own sleeping bag or sleeping sheet.

Day 11 – From the Desert to the Ocean Our off-track Trans-Saharan expedition will take us across a region of dunes, wells and nomadic camps of camel herders. This afternoon we take a road that will take us closer to the ocean. This evening we arrive at a comfortable ocean front hotel (Hotel Doumss or similar) in Dakhla that will be our base for two nights. (BLD) Day 12 – Rio De Oro The exceptional beauty of this landscape makes the Dakhla peninsula a truly special place. The Rio de Oro (Golden River) is a 25-mile long sea loch situated between cliffs and dunes. Different colours paint the scenery: the intense blue of the ocean, banks of yellow sand, and green seaweed fields. The brown rocks and white dunes form an island during high tide. The small town of Dakhla was founded by Spanish navigators in 1502 and was called “Villa Cisneros". We visit the traditional fishing harbour and have lunch at an oyster farm then drive along the shore where we will see ocean waves lapping the sand dunes. Later we return to our oceanfront hotel in Dakhla. (BLD) Day 13 – A Line in the Sand - Enter Mauritania We continue our epic journey and a signboard will indicate that we are crossing the ‘Tropic of Cancer’ region. The expedition continues following the cliff between the desert and the ocean. Only a few vehicles drive this remote ‘highway’ going south to Mauritania, the only open border from Maghreb to West Africa. We will arrive at the border, an isolated military post in the desert. After the formalities, we will cross a few miles of no-man’s land. On the other side is the military post of Mauritania. This evening arrive into Nouadhibou. Overnight Hotel El Medina or similar (BLD) Days 14 and 15 – Sahara Exploration The next two days will be spent exploring the desert. Thanks to the experience of our staff and local guide, we will make our own itinerary, tracing an unmarked path in the sand of the Inchiri region, one of the lesser-known parts of the Mauritanian desert. In this region we will not find people, but discover traces of ancient human presence: stone tools and pottery remains of those that lived here many years ago. Spend two nights camping (BLD) Camping Our modern tents are provided with mattresses and are totally closed with mosquito nets at the windows. Tents are placed on a large mat that further isolates them from the soil. A warm dinner will be prepared by a cook and served at tables. You will need to bring your own sleeping bag or sleeping sheet. Day 16 – Adrar – Dunes and Mountains We will now explore even more of the scenic landscape of Mauritania: valleys, high mountains, yellow sand dunes with peaks of dark and red rock and lost adobe villages lit only by the moon in the night. Amatlich Erg (dune range) is one of the most beautiful dune ranges in the region. We arrive in Chinguetti in the evening where we spend 2 nights in a traditional guesthouse. (BLD) Day 17 – Chinguetti Crossing the Adrar Mountains, we will follow the Amorag track. This scenic landscape of gorges and highlands will lead us to the Chinguetti oasis, an ancient Berber village. Chinguetti was the capital of the Moorish Empire. Part of the old stone town is still inhabited. Chinguetti also boasts great collections of ancient manuscripts. The Ksar, made of white stone with 5 towers, is a remarkable example of Arabo-

Berber architecture. We will spend the day discovering the magical atmosphere of this oasis, which is considered the best preserved of the Mauritanian oasis. Return to the guesthouse (BLD) Day 18 – Ouadane, the Remote Oasis Today we discover Ouadane, the most remote oasis in Mauritania. Founded in 1147 and now mainly in ruin, some of the stone houses are still inhabited. This was an important caravan trading point between Maghreb and black Africa. We return to Chinguetti following the Ouadi (dry creek). Overnight at La Gueila Guesthouse or similar (BLD) Day 19 - Noukchott Today we continue through the desert to Nouakchott, capital of Mauritania. Overnight Halima Hotel or similar (BLD) Day 20 – Djoudj National Park We depart for the small border post with Senegal. The natural border with Mauritania is the Senegal River and we will cross the river on a mobile bridge, moving into a humid area isolated between desert and dry savannah. The Djoudj National Park, declared a World Heritage Site, is a natural oasis formed by hundreds of miles of partially flooded lands. This humid paradise is the best habitat and nesting site for over a million migratory and sedentary birds. We will enjoy a boat excursion to visit an island with an astonishing concentration of pelicans. Arrive this evening at Saint Louis. Dinner and overnight at Hotel de la Poste, a historical hotel built in 1850 and which used to be the base of the “Aeropostale” (airmail pioneer operation) pilots. Totally restored, it has conserved the best old colonial atmosphere in town. (BLD) Day 21 – Saint Louis, African and Colonial Citadels A morning tour of Saint Louis, a charming colonial old town and the first capital of all the French colonies in West Africa. The best way to get around the narrow streets of Saint Louis will be on board a calash, like the locals do. Later in the morning we head south and drive for more than 62 miles on the beach, crossing dune ranges where we will reach Lampoul, our overnight stop. Overnight in a fixed camp (BLD) Day 22 – Fisherman Village to Contemporary Artists Today we arrive at Lac Rose. Also known as Lac Retba, a shallow saltwater lake surrounded by dunes. The water is ten times saltier than the ocean and due to the high concentration of salt the lake often shimmers in pink; swimming in the lake gives the sensation of floating. More than 600 people work collecting salt from the lake, in the traditional way. We visit the largest fishing village in Senegal where more than 4500 pirogues come to shore each day with their catch. We arrive into Dakar and visit ‘village des arts’, composed of more than fifty workshops of contemporary artists. We will meet some of the artists and discover their works, ranging from painting and sculpture to pottery, photography and filming. We will leave our vehicles at the port and board a ferry to Goré Island. Goré was where the slaves were crammed into while waiting to be shipped to the Americas. Some restored buildings remain to bear witness of those times. Today its breezy climate, history and ancient architecture, together with nice restaurants and boutiques, make Goré an interesting and attractive destination for local and foreign visitors. Overnight at Maison Municipal or similar (BLD) Day 23 – Dakar Today we return to Dakar and visit the town. We will see the ‘Plateau’ district, the Presidential Palace and a typical market. After lunch we drive to Kaolack. Overnight Hotel Le Relais or similar (BLD)

Day 24 – Gambia This morning we depart for the border with Gambia. We take a ‘very local’ ferry crossing where we have lunch in Banjul. After a tormented political time, the country is now stable. We visit the town centre and the interesting National Museum. Overnight at Atlantic Hotel or similar (BLD) Day 25 – Dancing Masks This morning we take brief guided bird watching experience before departing for the border with Casamance, the southern region of Senegal. This afternoon we join the ritual dances of the Diola sacred mask, rarely seen by foreigners. This mask belongs to a secret society and the identity of the dancers is not revealed, it is said that the mask is animated by the spirits. The dances are colourful and a real authentic West African experience. Overnight at Kadianoumange Hotel or similar (BLD) Day 26 – Ancestor Cult We drive to the border of Guinea Bissau and the region inhabited by the Manjaco ethnical group. We will visit tiny villages hidden in the forest to discover the sculptured wooden poles called “Pecab” that represent the spirits of their ancestors, in a sanctuary known as “Cab Balugun”, a tradition still alive. After asking permission of the villagers, we will have the opportunity to see different generations and styles of sacred wooden sculptures; one of the last chances to enjoy tribal art in its original cultural context. Overnight Hotel Mar Azul or similar (BLD) Day 27 - Bijagos Archipelago Today we start a three-day sailing adventure that will take us to discover the Bijagos Archipelago, its’ fascinating nature and isolated ethnic peoples. The Bijagos Archipelago is composed of 88 small and large islands located at an average of 40 miles away from the mainland. We hope to experience a mask dance, the most spectacular of which is a helmet wooden mask called Vaca Bruto (wild bull). With eyes of frosted glass, real horns, leather ears and a rope through the nostril, the masks are animated by the bucking of the dancers. All the villagers attend this fascinating ceremony. Overnight at Orango Island in a comfortable hotel (BLD). Day 28 – Saltwater Hippos Orango Island, which is part of the Parque Natural do Grupo das Ilhas de Orango, is covered by a savannah and is known for the presence of unique saltwater hippos. From October to the first part of February it is possible to follow their tracks; however, as they move around the island searching for saltwater ponds, the local guides can lose their tracks for days. We arrive in the afternoon at Rubane Island. Overnight in a comfortable hotel (BLD) Day 29 – Bissau Leaving the islands behind we return to the mainland. In Bissau we have time for a quick look around the city with its colonial Portuguese architecture. Overnight Hotel Azalai or similar. (BLD) Day 30 – Malinke Region Morning drive to a small village in the Malinke region. The Malinke are descendants of the ancient empire of Mali and we visit a community of ‘griots’ – traditional musicians and story tellers who play an important part in conserving the traditions of West Africa. We learn about their history and customs, and witness a traditional griot performance. Overnight simple hotel in Gabu. (BLD)

Days 31-32 – Gabu – Labe – Coyah A small track takes us to the border of Guinea, crossing the Fouta Djalon, an area inhabited by Malinke and Fulani tribes, and we stop in villages where the arrival of western visitors is a rare event. We visit isolated villages, composed of large clay houses decorated with bas relief, high conical roofs with several layers of straw. Overnight tourist class hotels (day 3 – Labe, day 4 – Coyah) (BLD) Fouta Djalon Fouta Djalon is the most important massif of mountains in West Africa. Its fresh and salubrious climate made this place, the preferred one by the French for their holidays during the colonial time. Wood of conifers is left as memory of that time. Fouta Djalon is the most famous and spectacular area of Guinea: mountains, plateau and savannah are alternated with deep humid valleys. In the hollow of the valleys rice farms are alternated with the forest. The rivers and the waterfalls enrich the landscape. Day 33 - Dalaba - Mamou Explore the small town of Dalaba, with its interesting ‘casa a palabra’, a finely decorated building used for local chiefs. We also visit the villa of Guinea’s first president, Sekou Toure, and then continue to the market town of Mamou. Overnight Hotel Balys or similar. (BLD) Days 34 and 35 - En route to Freetown Drive to the border with Sierra Leone, where we stop at the village of Kamakwie to see traditional mask dances. From here continue to Freetown, Sierra Leone’s capital. Overnight White House Hotel (Day 34) and Swiss Hotel (Day 35) or similar. (BLD) Days 36 and 37 - Freetown - Banana Islands Explore Freetown visiting its lively markets and seeing examples of old colonial architecture, and heading out to its beaches. From here travel the archipelago of the Banana Islands, with its stunning beaches and fishing villages. Overnight Bafa Lodge or similar. (BLD) Day 38 – Bo Explore the Kenema region, meeting diamond panners and learn how this precious stone has played an important – and all too often tragic – role in the country’s history. We then continue to the town of Bo, in the west of the country. Overnight Dohas Hotel or similar. (BLD) Day 39 - Monrovia We spend the morning learning about the process of diamond mining, as we join some villagers who show us their craft. From here we continue to the border with Liberia, and from here drive to Monrovia. Overnight Cape Hotel or similar. (BLD) Monrovia Monrovia has a close association with both the slave trade and the return of emancipated slaves to Africa; it is named after James Monroe, the US president who was instrumental in the latter campaign. It was ravaged by war in the 1990s and is today a rather ramshackle capital, albeit rather atmospheric in the right light.

Day 40 - Monrovia - Gbarnga Spend the morning exploring Monrovia. We visit the National Museum and the impressive Masonic Temple of Liberia, that has played an important part in Liberian history over the years. From here drive to Gbarnga for the night. Overnight Passion Hotel or similar. (BLD) Days 41 and 42 - Macenta - Nzerekore Drive through northern Liberia and back into Guinea, to a lush region of thick forests and remote villages. We see mask dances while here, including one of the ‘bird men, dressed in feathers and with their faces painted white with kaolin. This is a secret society, and its members are believed to have powers that make them invisible. We also see the impressive bridges made of living vines, believed to be built by spirits during the course of just one night. Overnight Hotel Macenta (Day 41) and Hotel Bethanie (Day 42) or similar. (BLD) Day 43 - Bossou - Man Head to the small village of Bossou and explore the forest, home to a group of chimpanzees. Constantly monitored by researchers, they are relatively easy to approach. From here we cross into Ivory Coast and drive to the town of Man. Overnight Hotel Les Cascades or similar. (BLD) Day 44 - Man Today is a full day discovering masks and magic traditions. We drive to remote villages in the forest to see the Guere ethnic group. We will see the powerful Dan Guere Mask dances, and, if we are lucky, the rare ‘jugglers’ performance. We return to our hotel. Overnight Hotel Les Cascades or similar (BLD) Day 45 - Daloa Venture into the forest to reach some of the more isolated settlements of the Guere people. Here we will see their mask dances and if lucky, a dance of the ‘jongleurs’, a rare performance involving initiated women with white painted faces, and considerable acrobatic prowess! Continue to Daloa for the night. Overnight Hotel La Grace or similar. (BLD) Day 46 - Yamoussoukro This morning we see a ceremony of the Zaouli dancing masks, a tradition of the Guro people. From here drive to Yamoussoukro, once just a village but now Cote d’Ivoire’s bizarre administrative capital. Yamoussoukro is dominated by the gigantic Basilica of Our Lady of Peace, reputedly the largest Christian place of worship on earth, and we spend time exploring this vast complex. Overnight Hotel Royal or similar. (BLD) Yamoussoukro The city of Yamoussoukro, rising out of the jungle, was little more than a village fifty years ago, but its status as the birthplace of Cote d’Ivoire’s first president has led to a dramatic transformation. Felix Houphouet-Boigny began his ambitious construction project in the 1960s, with the intention of creating a model city. Today Yamoussoukro is home to grandiose government buildings that seem rather out of place given the overall conditions of the country, and has become the administrative capital of the country. It is not however the hub of economic activity – Abidjan, the previous capital, retains this honour. Compared to most African cities Yamoussoukro can seem rather sterile and devoid of the chaos that makes African travel fun, but it is nevertheless a fascinating place to explore and muse on the dreams of the former president. The most impressive building is the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace, reputedly the largest church in the world and bigger than St Peter’s in Rome. A controversial project, the basilica cost $300 million to build and prompted

questions as to whether the money would have been better spent improving the lot of the general population rather than on what many see as a vanity project – there is an image of Houphouet-Boigny next to Jesus in one of the stained-glass windows. Day 47 – Abidjan Head to Abidjan, the country’s capital and a modern and glitzy contrast to the trip so far. Spend the rest of the day exploring the city, with a boat trip through the lagoon, a visit to its lively market and the National Museum to gain an insight into the different ethnic groups that live here. Overnight Hotel Azalai or similar. (BLD) Abidjan Cote d’Ivoire’s largest city, Abidjan is a sizeable metropolis that some say is the third largest French speaking city in the world, after Paris and Kinshasa. A cultural hub of West Africa, it is a busy and vibrant city, with glitzy skyscrapers a testament to the fact that this is the economic capital of the country. It wasn’t always so – Abidjan was originally a small fishing village until it became the capital of the French colony in 1900. Since then it has grown enormously, and only Lagos is larger in the region. Like many African cities it is not especially endowed with traditional tourist sights, but is great for people watching and soaking up the atmosphere. Day 48 - Grand Bassam - Aboisso Drive to the city of Grand Bassam with its old colonial buildings and atmosphere of yesteryear, to explore and learn about the history of the country. Continue to Aboisso for the night. Overnight Hotel La Roche or similar. (BLD) Grand Bassam The historic town of Grand Bassam was a former French colonial capital, but not for long. Having attained this status in 1893 it was promptly evacuated three years later after an outbreak of Yellow Fever. The shipping industry on which the town depended gradually declined, and eventually the population diminished to such a level that virtually the only inhabitants were squatters, although now about five thousand people live here. Today the place has the aura of a ghost town, with grandiose abandoned buildings lining the streets, and in 2012 the town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in light of its special historic value. Day 49 - Axim – Anomabu Cross into Ghana and drive to Axim. Here we stop at the 16th century Portuguese fort, one of many early European fortifications dotted along this coast. After exploring the fort, drive east to Anomabu. Overnighgt Anomabu Beach Resort or similar. (BLD) Day 50 - Elmina We visit the fishing town of Elmina, best known for St George’s Castle, the oldest European building in Africa and once used as holding centre for slaves. In the town itself we explore the old quarter with its unique Posuban shrines, made by the traditional ‘asafo’ societies which were once responsible for local defence. Overnight Anomabu Beach Resort or similar. (BLD) Elmina The pretty town of Elmina is dominated by the whitewashed St George’s Castle, which dates back to the 15th century. The fort is a rather sombre place when you realise that this is where slaves were held

awaiting transportation to the new world, and the cells which they were held in still remain. Elmina is also home to the smaller Fort St Jago, perched on a hill and overlooking the town, as well as a 19th century Dutch cemetery, and the fishing harbour is a delight to explore, with colourful boats and fishermen bringing in their daily catch. Day 51 – Accra Continue to Accra, visiting the National Museum and the old quarter of Jamestown, as well as the quarter where craftsmen design flamboyant coffins for the deceased – a uniquely Ghanaian experience. Overnight Accra City Hotel or similar. (BLD) Accra Ghana’s capital is one of Africa’s biggest cities, with the inevitable traffic, noise and mayhem. Despite being a fast growing, lively city, the people are friendly and welcoming and maintain many aspects of their tribal African roots. The National Museum houses one of West Africa’s best ethnographic, historical and art collections, which gives a good introduction to Ghana and surrounding areas. The old quarter of Jamestown is the heart of the old colonial town and is inhabited by the Ga people, who founded Accra in the 16th century. There are numerous bustling markets to explore where you can discover everything from food, clothing and household goods to traditional crafts. Most interesting is the area where coffins are made – here they make them with the most outlandish designs, in the shape of fish, aeroplanes, or just about anything else you can think of. Day 52 – Lome We cross the border into Togo and head to Lome, the only African city to have been colonised by the French, British and Germans. Explore the city including its central markets and the fascinating – if rather gruesome – fetish market, where animal parts are sold for use in traditional medicines. Travel to a remote and hidden village, where we witness a voodoo ceremony – unique to this part of the world, and sure to be one of the highlights of your trip. Overnight Hotel Onomo or similar. (BLD) Lome Togo’s capital is a vibrant city situated on the coast, sitting right on the international border with Ghana and with a population of just under a million. Slightly dishevelled, it is quite an atmospheric little city and is now recovering from the civil disturbances suffered by the country in the 1990s. Its origins date back to the 18th century, when it was settled by the Ewe people, one of Togo’s largest ethnic groups. Like many African cities it doesn’t have too much in the way of formal sightseeing but there are a few things worth exploring – the Grand Marche with its exuberant businesswomen known as ‘Nana Benz’ who monopolise the sale of cloth in Togo. Not be missed is the fetish market, where animal parts are sold for use in traditional medicines. This is not a great place for animal lovers, with heads and body parts of everything from sharks and crocodiles to gorillas on sale, but offers a fascinating insight into a belief system very different from our own. Lome has a number of buildings which date from the German occupation, most noticeable of which is a rather bizarre looking 19th century Gothic style cathedral which looks rather out of place in a West African city. Day 53 - Grand Popo This morning travel to a remote and hidden village, where we witness a voodoo ceremony – unique to this part of the world, and sure to be one of the highlights of your trip. We then cross into Benin and head to the small town of Grand Popo, on the coast. Overnight Auberge de Grand Popo or similar. (BLD)

Voodoo Voodoo, or Vodoun as it is known here, is one of the most important religions in this part of West Africa. Forget what you may have seen on TV about it being a form of black magic – here it has the same legitimacy as any other belief system and has been adopted as an official religion by Benin. Voodoo is a complex and intricate way of seeing of the world, with literally hundreds of different gods responsible for various areas of daily life – some are benevolent, some less so, and in order to communicate with them and ask for favours local people will seek the assistance of followers, or adepts. There are numerous voodoo temples scattered around the coastal regions of both Benin and Togo, each headed by a priest who for a suitable donation will intercede on your behalf. Voodoo is not limited to the temples though and travelling around the region it is not likely that you will see some ceremony being carried out. Also worth looking out for are the Egunguns - earthly manifestations of the dead who roam the streets in outlandish costumes, striking fear into the heart of local people. Sacrifice and blood are important within voodoo rituals, and any ceremony worth its salt is likely to involve a chicken being killed, its blood spilled onto a shrine in order to seal the pact. You’re also likely to see fetishes dotted around villages - these are inanimate objects such as rocks or trees in which a spirit is believed to reside, often covered in candle wax, feathers and blood where sacrifices have been made. Gaining some understanding of voodoo allows you a glimpse into a magical world where nothing is quite as it seems, and is perhaps the most fascinating aspect of travelling here. Day 54 - Ouidah Meet with the ‘Celestial Church’, a uniquely Togolese phenomenon which blends aspects of voodoo and Christianity. We then cross into Benin and witness a dance of the Egun masks, a powerful secret society that are both revered and feared in Benin. From here we continue to the coastal town of Ouidah, a stronghold of voodoo and once an important slave port. Overnight Hotel Casa del Papa or similar. (BLD) Day 55 – Ouidah – Ganvie - Cotonou We visit the python temple, where snakes are venerated as representations of gods, the old Portuguese fort and finally head to the beach and the sombre ‘Gate of No Return’, the point from which slaves left Africa for the New World. In the afternoon we head out onto Lake Nokwe to visit Ganvie, the largest stilt village in Africa situated in the middle of the water. Continue to Cotonou where the tour ends – day use rooms are available to freshen up before your transfer to the airport to fly home. (BL) Ganvie On Lake Nokwe lies the stilt village of Ganvie, a settlement of 25,000 people isolated from the land and only accessible by boat. Legend has it that the Tofinou people fled here in the 18th century to escape the depredation of the more powerful Dahomeyans on the lookout for slaves, and that they were transported to their new home by crocodiles. Whatever the truth behind it, Ganvie is an interesting place to drift through in a boat, watching how people go about their daily lives on the water, stopping at local markets watching the fishermen casting their nets, and is far removed from the busy towns making this a real delight to explore. The market on the mainland is also worth a look, if only for the rather gruesome section dedicated to voodoo.

Tour Inclusions/Exclusions Inclusions: Arrival and departure transfers provided on a shared or private basis depending on location. On occasions the transfer will be operated by a hotel shuttle bus (*please see notes below) Arrival and departure transfers All accommodation Services of English-speaking guide / tour leader Full board from Breakfast on Day 2 to Lunch on Day 55 Entrance fees for sites listed as part of the itinerary Excluded: International flights Any airport taxes Travel Insurance Visas (contact us for details) Additional drinks Notes Airport Transfers We include airport transfers in the price of your tour if you are arriving on the first day and leaving on the last day of the advertised itinerary. These will be provided by our local representative or on occasions by the hotel used for the first and last nights of the tour. When the transfer is provided by the hotel this will often be via a shared shuttle bus operated by the hotel. If you are planning to arrive before the start date, and/or leave after the end date of the tour, Undiscovered Destinations can arrange private transfers at an additional cost. Please check with us at the time of booking. Please note that if you have arranged extra pre and/or post tour accommodation, either through Undiscovered Destinations or directly with the hotel or an agent, airport transfers are not included in the price of your tour. Please contact us if you would like Undiscovered Destinations to arrange private airport transfers at an additional cost.

Important Information Foreign Government Travel Warnings Before booking your tour please familiarise yourself with the country specific information provided by the UK’s Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) - https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice. This includes important information such as latest immigration requirements, and details of any travel advisories. We constantly monitor the advice posted by the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO). In particular we will always advise clients of any travel warnings. At the time of writing the FCO has no travel

warnings in place for Morocco, Senegal, Gambia, Guinea-Bissau, Guinea, Liberia, Sierra Leone, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Togo and Benin In Mauritania, the Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) advise against all travel to the provinces of Tiris Zemmour, Adrar, Tagant, Hodh el Chargui, Dakhlet-Nouadhibou and Inchiri (with the exception of the Nouakchott - Nouadhibou corridor). The FCO advise against all but essential travel to the rest of the country. This includes travel along the Nouakchott - Nouadhibou corridor comprising the north-south arterial road running between these two cities and passing through Nouamghar. It is likely that travel warnings will remain in place for some time to come, and we are only able to accept a booking on the basis that you are aware this is the case and confirm that you are still happy to travel irrespective of the current FCO advice. We work very closely with experienced local contacts and are fully confident that it is safe to operate this tour through Mauritania. Please feel free to contact us should you have any specific concerns or if would like to know in detail what measures are being taken to ensure visits remain trouble free and without incident. It should be noted that this information applies to British citizens. Other nationals are asked to check the current position of their respective government. Accommodation and Meals Hotel Check-in Times As a general rule most hotels will allow guests to check-in from 2pm. Please note that the price of your tour does not include guaranteed early check-in. Therefore please advise us if you would like to ensure that your room is available for an earlier arrival. This is particularly relevant on the first day of the tour and for early morning arrivals. One option is to pre-book and pay for an extra night at the beginning of your tour which will guarantee your accommodation is available irrespective of what time you arrive. Please contact us for information and costs. It should also be noted that on many of our tours we have set-aside Day 1 of the itinerary as an ‘arrival day’. For this reason and because tour participants are likely to be arriving at different times, and often from different countries, guided sightseeing or other activities are not included. If you are arriving early or before the start date of the tour and would like to organise some extra arrangements on a private basis please contact us. Accommodation Rating This is a unique expedition. We stay in the best accommodation possible but you need to expect basic conditions at times. Many of the hotels and guesthouse will be of a reasonable comfort level and have private bathroom facilities. Some will be shared bathroom facilities. Where air conditioning is required and available we will use such facilities. There is 4 nights wild camping on the expedition and one night staying in fixed tents that have beds. In the main towns, you can generally expect to find that your hotel has a restaurant and/or bar.

We welcome solo travellers and single rooms will be allocated subject to the applicable tour supplement. Please note that on occasions you may not always be allocated a double or twin room, as some hotels have designated single rooms. These may be smaller in size. However, the supplement payable takes this into consideration. Food & Drink The daily meal basis is shown in the tour itinerary; breakfast (B), lunch (L) and dinner (D). Please note that lunch may be a picnic. Drinks are not included and will be payable locally in cash. Dietary Requirements If you have any special dietary requirements you must notify us at the time of booking. While we will make every effort to cater for you, we cannot guarantee that this will be possible. Budgeting for your Tour You will need some extra money to cover meals and drinks not included in the tour price, any optional sightseeing, souvenirs and items of a personal nature such as laundry. Food The costs for meals may vary depending upon location, type of restaurant and number of courses eaten and so the prices given are an average guide. Local restaurants located off the beaten track may be less expensive, whereas an upmarket restaurant located in the centre of a major city may charge more. Lunch £8 Dinner £10 Drink The prices for drinks can vary greatly depending upon location and the prices detailed below are an average guide. In general you would expect that drinks purchased in a supermarket or local bar to be less expensive, whilst drinks in an upmarket bar or restaurant may be more expensive. Water £1.30, Beer £1.50 Tipping – Guide and Drivers Tipping is common practise throughout the region. If your local guide has been helpful then you could think about tipping. This amount can obviously be left to you. When tipping a driver, a guide or hotel staff a few dollars will always be gratefully received. Foreign Exchange ATM Availability: Limited to major cities only, but none available in Guinea-Bissau Credit and Debit Card Acceptance: The use of cards is limited to high end restaurants and establishments only. Generally cards are not accepted in Guinea-Bissau Local Currency: Morocco and Western Sahara - Moroccan Dirham, Mauritania – Ouguiya, Senegal, Guinea-Bissau, Ivory Coast, Togo and Benin - CFA Franc, Gambia – Gambian Dalasi, Guinea – Guinean Franc, Liberia – Liberian Dollar, Sierra Leone – Sierra Leonean Leone, Ghana – Cedi. Recommended Currency for Exchange: Euro Where to Exchange: Your tour guide will advise you

Joining your Tour Flight Information You are able to book this tour on a 'land only' basis or as a ‘flight inclusive’ package. Your flight inclusive package will be fully protected by the Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) ATOL protection scheme. Joining Tour Abroad Customers booked on the ‘Land Only’ arrangements will receive a free airport transfer, both on the advertised start and end dates of the tour. In addition arrival and/or departure transfers will be provided in conjunction with any pre and/or post tour accommodation that has been booked through Undiscovered Destinations. In all other cases charges may apply for airport transfers. Please advise the date, time and flight number for your arrival/departure. If we have not been advised of this information at least 2 weeks before travel, then you will be required to make your own way to the hotel on Day 1 of your tour. Travel Insurance It is a condition of booking with Undiscovered Destinations that you have adequate valid travel insurance. It is your responsibility to arrange appropriate travel insurance and ensure you have read and understood the full terms and conditions of your travel insurance policy to ensure that you are covered for all activities you intend to undertake whilst on the tour, including all optional activities. Your Insurance Policy must fully cover you for medical expenses and emergency repatriation to your home country and be valid for the entire duration of your holiday. Visa Information Morocco Most nationals including UK, EU and US visitors do not require a visa. However this could change so we recommend that you check with your nearest embassy for the most up to date details. Mauritania Most nationals including those from the UK will require a visa to enter Mauritania. For travellers on our overland journeys we can normally obtain the visa at the border, which requires 4 photographs. However, please check at the time of booking. Senegal Most nationals including UK, EU and US visitors do not require a visa. However this could change so we recommend that you check with your nearest embassy for the most up to date details. Yellow Fever vaccination is required for travellers who are arriving from, or have transited through, countries with risk of yellow fever transmission. Gambia For visits of less than a month UK nationals do not need to obtain a visa before travel. Other nationalities should check with their nearest embassy. For travellers on our overland trip, visas can often be obtained at the border.

Guinea-Bissau With the exception of West African states, all nationalities require a visa to enter Guinea-Bissau. Visitors to Guinea-Bissau can obtain a visa on arrival which is valid for 90 days. Regulations can and do change and so we recommend that you check with your nearest embassy or consulate for the most up to date information. In general we can also arrange for the visa to be issued on arrival, but as regulations can change do check at the time booking. Guinea Visitors from most countries, including UK, EU and US visitors require a visa for entering Guinea in their country of residency. This needs to be obtained in advance. Visa regulations can frequently change and therefore we recommend that you check with your nearest embassy for the most up to date details. Liberia Visitors from most countries, including UK, EU and US visitors require a visa for entering Liberia which must be obtained in advance. Visa regulations can frequently change and therefore we recommend that you check with your nearest embassy for the most up to date details. Sierra Leone Visitors from most countries, including UK, EU and US visitors require a visa for entering Sierra Leone. Normally a visa can be issued on arrival. Visa regulations can frequently change and therefore we recommend that you check with your nearest embassy for the most up to date details. Ivory Coast Visitors from most countries, including UK, EU and US visitors require a visa for entering Ivory Coast. Normally this can be issued as an e-visa. Visa regulations can frequently change and therefore we recommend that you check with your nearest embassy for the most up to date details. Ghana Visitors from most countries, including UK, EU and US visitors require a visa for entering Ghana. This needs to be obtained in advance. Visa regulations can frequently change and therefore we recommend that you check with your nearest embassy for the most up to date details. Togo A Togolese visa can be obtained at the border. The current price, which is subject to change, is approximately CFA10,000 and you should bring two passport photos all though these are often not required. Benin Visitors from most countries, including UK, EU and US visitors require a visa for entering Benin. While the official advice is that it can be obtained in advance, or on arrival, recent experience has been that the authorities at local level will only accept an e visa. The price is 50 Euros per person and it can be obtained by completing an online e visa application. Please contact us for further details.

For travellers on our overland tours, for some of the countries visited visas can be obtained whilst on tour. However please contact us for more information. As regulations can change do check at the time booking. Passports It is your responsibility to ensure that you are in possession of a full passport, valid for at least six months after the date of return to the UK. We strongly advise that your passport contains a minimum of two blank pages, as this may be a requirement of the local immigration authorities. In addition certain countries will stipulate that the two blank pages are opposite each other. If you are unable to meet these requirements you may be refused boarding by your airline or denied entry by the immigration authorities. For specific information about the requirements for your destination please check with the country’s embassy or consulate. Alternatively UK citizens can visit www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice. Vaccinations & Protection As with travel to most parts of the developing world, we strongly recommend that you contact your doctor’s surgery or a specialist travel clinic for up-to-date information, advice and the necessary vaccinations. For a visit of less than one month, almost certainly you will be advised to have immunisations against the following: Diphtheria and Tetanus, Hepatitis A, Typhoid, Meningitis. Anti-malaria medication will also be required and the use of a DEET-containing insect repellent is highly recommended. Vaccination against yellow fever is a compulsory requirement and you must bring your certificate with you. This may or may not be checked when you enter the country, but we strongly advise that you do not risk being denied entry. The legal status and regulation of some medicines prescribed or purchased in your home country can be different in other countries. If you are travelling with prescription or over-the-counter medicine, read this guidance from NaTHNaC (National Travel Health Network and Centre - https://travelhealthpro.org.uk/) on best practice when travelling with medicines. For further information on the legal status of a specific medicine, you will need to contact the embassy, high commission or consulate of the country or territory that you are travelling to.

Preparing for your tour Climate In the Sahara late autumn and spring are the best seasons so we run this expedition usually at these times only. Climate is mild and pleasant. The nights can be cool in the desert but the days are warm and not too hot. Once we are south of the Sahara the climate is warm both by day and night and sometimes days can be hot.

Clothing When it comes to clothing it is usually recommended that lighter clothes are worn through the day and warmer ones at night, although you shouldn’t expect it to be too cold here. Both male and female clients should dress with respect. Our advice is to dress sensitively in accordance with the countries traditions, and avoid wearing revealing clothing, particularly in rural areas. In summary, unless advised by your local guide, you should follow the above advice. If it is appropriate to dress in a slightly more revealing manner, then your guide will advise you accordingly. You should make sure that you have sufficient long sleeved tops and trousers for entering any mosques. You may also find a waterproof jacket to be useful for the journeys made by speedboats. Swimwear can be packed for swimming opportunities south of the Sahara. Equipment The first thing on your list should be a first aid kit. Whilst there is no undue cause for alarm, travellers are best advised to travel well-prepared: adequately immunized, with sufficient supplies of prescription drugs, along with a medical kit. Suncream/sunblock is a must. You will not be able to purchase this while on tour so please make sure you have a sufficient supply. Please ensure you bring a flashlight and/or head torch. You will need a light sleeping bag for the camping nights. Also it is recommended to bring a sleeping inner sheet. An inflatable pillow is recommended for camping and also a travel towel. Environmental Responsibility We are committed to reducing our impact on the environment. On this tour single-use plastic bottles of water will not be handed out. Water will be provided from a large container. We kindly ask you to bring your own water bottles/flask with you on this trip. If you have any concerns please contact us. Footwear Comfortable walking shoes/boots are recommended as are sandals for general travelling. Luggage on tour Due to the nature of the itinerary including many boat rides, the maximum weight allowed per luggage per person is 20 kg. A water-proof soft sack or bag is recommended. Service Standards Service Standards Please note that standards of service in much of Africa are not comparable to those of more developed countries, especially in the more off the beaten track locations. Service is often slow and lacks the same attention to detail, and your patience and understanding will be appreciated. Electric Supply & Plugs 2 Pin Round Tour Itinerary Versions Please ensure that you have an up-to-date copy of these tour notes immediately before you travel, as from time to time our itineraries may be amended, either for operational reasons or in response to feedback from customers. You will be informed of any major changes to your tour but small changes may just be added to these tour notes. These notes were updated 9 July 2020.