Top To Bottom Camry - LOCKSMITH MARTtnlstore.weebly.com/uploads/4/3/7/3/43731111/nlaa_-001.pdfIf reading this lock by sight, it is best to give yourself a point of index or registration

Publisher's Page ...............................................................page 3Director's Page ..................................................................page 4Starting Line .....................................................................page 5GM'S MATS system at work .........................................page 7Life In The Fast Lane .....................................................page 10Joe’s Garage .....................................................................page 17Dealing with Dealers ....................................................page 22How The Heck…? ..........................................................page 23Nuts & Bolts ....................................................................page 25Feature Articles:

Top To Bottom Camry ................................................page 1Dale Does: High Tech Car Opening Tools .............page 28Opening The 1994 Honda Accord 2 Door ..............page 30A Car By Any Other Name .......................................page 39

The Official Publication of the

NATIONAL LOCKSMITHAUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATION™

WINTER1995

TM

Top To Bottom CamryBy Michael Hyde

FEATURE ARTICLE

he 1994 Toyota Camry isone Toyota's best selling

cars, as most Camry's have beenin the past. (See photograph 1.)

Because the lock linkage rodis out of normal view, whentrying to reach this rod followthe inside release linkage

forward and then pull up toengage the lock/unlock linkagerod where it is not covered bythe plastic shielding. (Seephotograph 2.) The use of a goodbright car opening light is a

T

(Continued on page 32)

1. The 1994ToyotaCamry.

Winter 1995 3

Welcome! This is the very first newsletter issued by a brand newAssociation, the NLAA. The NLAA was formed for YOU, and ofcourse, this makes the Automotive Edge your newsletter.

Our job here is to bring you the newest, the latest, the veryHOTTEST automotive locksmithing information available anywhere!And we'll work very hard to do that for you in every aspect of theNLAA.

Four times per year, you'll receive a copy of the Automotive Edge,just like this one. And six times per year, you'll receive a healthy set ofNLAA Technical Bulletins, giving critical details on a range of newand challenging cars.

Notice that both this newsletter and the Technical Bulletins arethree hole punched. We suggest that you place all your MembershipMailings in a three ring binder so you have them accessible when youreally need them: When you get called out on a job! If you wish, youmay send us a check for $10 and a request for an official NLAABinder. But you can easily use any three ring binder to organize yourmaterials.

The NLAA does have a great many plans to be announced overtime. For example, we are now starting work on a CertificationProgram, so that you will be able to test and become Certified inAutomotive Locksmithing by the NLAA. Seminars will beannounced before long, for which NLAA members will receive hugediscounts.

The NLAA Code and Car Hotline is already set up and functioning.Members who call in can receive technical assistance rapidly. Onenew benefit of Membership has been the $15 discount on the newAutoSmart manual. Many members report this book has saved themlots of time and trouble when working on cars.

At this time, we are also teaming up with manufacturers to giveyou more information than has ever been available. Thanks forjoining the NLAA! It's gonna be a great year!

FROM THE PUBLISHER

Marc Goldberg

National Locksmith Automobile Association™

PublisherMarc Goldberg

DirectorTom Seroogy

Printed in U.S.A.NLAA, a division of

National Publishing Co.Publishers of

THE NATIONAL LOCKSMITH

1533 Burgundy ParkwayStreamwood, Illinois 60107

Phone 708-837-2044Fax 708-837-1210

E-mail address: [email protected]

Unsolicited manuscripts areaccepted, but must include

SASE.© 1995 National Publishing Co.

All Rights Reserved

Winter 1995

Welcome to theNational Locksmith

Automobile Association!

Hi. Welcome to the first issue ofThe National Locksmith AutomobileAssociation's "The AutomotiveEdge." Unlike any otherpublication brought tolocksmiths, The Automotive Edgewill explore all facets oflocksmith auto service - Featurearticles cover specific autos fromhead to toe, including openingprocedures, lock removal andservice, key generation, key andlock specifications, replacementpart and service kit numbers.

Each issue includes articles onHigh Security vehicles for theadvanced auto tech down tostandard GM, Ford and Chryslerservice and lock repair for thebeginner.

Time will be spent on importantauto issues that affect your day today operation. In this issue's"What The Heck...?," for example,we cover warnings andprocedures on GM's equippedwith the Delta-LOC I and Delta-LOC II systems. Don't get caughtunprepared working on thesecars.

In Nuts & Bolts we take a lookat tools, both old and new, that

make our jobs simpler. Plus, ineach issue Dale Libby reviews caropening kits and tools from themajor manufacturers.

Now, most of this work is notdone by me. There's no way Icould possibly cover all thismaterial by myself. Actually thereare going to be three majorplayers in the creation of each"The Automotive Edge:"

First are our writers. Includedare Jake Jakubuwski; Dale Libby,long time safeman and autolocksmith; Tom Mazzone,locksmith and GM MasterTechnician; and Michael Hyde,automotive locksmith expert andwriter of The National Locksmith'sAutoSmart auto referencemanual.

Second, there are the locksmithautomotive tool manufacturersand distributors. They supply uswith the new and improved thatmake our job easier. They provideus with coming changes in theauto industry, including newcodes, new lock and key systems,new service procedures, etc.

Finally, there is you. That'sright, you!

We're making an unusual standhere at the NLAA. Ourphilosophy isn't based on usknowing it all, it's based on all ofus knowing.

A single person or organization

cannot cover the full gamut of theauto industry, it requiresteamwork - teamwork from allthe participating locksmiths.While we give you as complete aspectrum as possible, we knowwe're not infallible, we knowexceptions exist, we know thereare techniques and methodsunknown to us and to the rest ofthe locksmith community. Andwith your help, we'll discoverthem and let it be known to therest of our locksmith team.

In short, we are your LocksmithCentral, the center of a vastnetwork of automotivelocksmiths.

So, let us know what's on yourmind. Write to us with yourexceptions, new techniques andmethods, and questions. Intoday's competitive marketnetworking is another tool forgaining that upper AutomotiveEdge.

And don't forget, The NationalLocksmith is now on-line. Thoseon our team with computers havedirect contact with us throughthis new service. Plus, in the nearfuture, by adding your E-mailaddress to our list, we can bringyou the latest auto tech info evenbefore it's published. OurAddress is: America On line -NATL LOCK, or Internet [email protected]. Send me yourE-mail address!

DIRECTOR’S PAGE

Tom Seroogy

Auto Network–Learning Together.

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4 Winter 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

ne of the cold, hardrealities of doing GM

service work is that every nowand then, a door lock will haveto be removed in order togenerate a door key. For manybeginners this was a formidabletask. Not the removal from thedoor, necessarily, but thedisassembly and fitting of a keyto the lock.

From the beginning, most ofus were taught that in order tomake the key, the tumblers fromthe lock would have to beremoved and read. This, ofcourse, means that the tumbler

cap and springs have to beremoved. Unfortunately, thistask is not that easy. Because theends of the tumbler cap aresecurely staked into the plug,the cap's retaining tabs oftentear off and remain in the plug,rendering it useless.

To avoid these troubles, we'lltake a look at a simpletechnique for reading theselocks without removing thetumbler cap and springs.

As in the standard procedure,remove the lock from thevehicle. Remove the face cap,dust cover, dust cover springs

and lay themaside (exceptthe face capwhich is de-stroyed, always

have spares on hand).

After removing the plug fromthe shell, use your finger todepress the sidebar. Insert apick into the keyway and rakethe tumblers until the sidebarhas been picked. This has beenachieved when the sidebardrops flush with the plug, orshearline. (See photograph 1.)

With the plug picked, lookinto the tumbler chambers, nextto the tumbler cap. Thetumblers can be seen, and willbe set at various depths. Thesedepths are the depths of eachcut and this is what we want toread. (See photograph 2.)

If reading this lock by sight, itis best to give yourself a pointof index or registration whilereading. In most cases, a

National Locksmith Automobile Association Winter 1995 5

Reading GM Door LocksBy Tom Seroogy

O

1. Remove and pick the door plug. 2. After picking, the tumbler depths can be seenlooking down into chamber.

tumbler that is just up underthe tumbler cap, near thesurface of the plug is a #1depth. From there it getsprogressively deeper.

While sight reading theselocks takes practice, forbeginners, it is often best to usea decoding tool. These tools areinserted into the tumblerchamber and rest on top of thetumbler, gauging its depth.Obtain the depths for eachtumbler and cut the key

respectively. (See photograph 3.)

When reading and cutting thekey, however, it is important toremember the GM rules ofprogression:

1. All the cuts of the bittingwhen added together equal aneven number.

2. The Maximum AdjacentCut Specification is two,meaning adjacent cuts cannotbe more than two increments ordepths apart.

3. Three consecutive cutscannot have the same depth.

4. The same depth cannotappear more than four times inany bitting.

Following these rules andusing the readers will makeswift work in making any doorkey. It should also be stated thatthis same procedure can beused on ignition locks wherethe code is not present on theshell.


3. Decoders like HPC's GMTD 5 andA-1's GM Door Lock Decoder can help the

beginner learn to read GM door locks.

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HPC’s GMTD 5

A-1’s DOOR LOCK DECODER

ngineering at GeneralMotors is once again

tirelessly working on ways tothwart vehicle theft. In tandemwith its very successful PASSsystem, GM introduced theMATS system in 1992 in its fullsized, rear wheel drive cars.These vehicles were the BuickRoadmaster, the ChevroletCaprice, and the full sizedOldsmobile Custom Cruiserstation wagon. Their bodydesignation code is “B” body.

In 1993, this system wasbrought into use on the fullsized vans and full sized “C”and “K” Suburbans. Finally, in1994, the system wasincorporated into the smallerBlazer and Jimmy series. Theirbody designation code is “S”and “T" series.

MATS is an acronym forMechanical Anti-Theft System.It is a very simple type ofsystem that is almostunrecognizable from theoutward appearance of thesteering column.

The first issue to address ishow this system can help tostop a thief from stealing thevehicle. The system has a steelplate immediately below thesteering wheel covering thesteering shaft lock plate andbolt. It is held in place with twoT15 Torx screws that thread into


Is MATS Enough?By Tom Mazzone

E

Standard Auto Service

1. The upper lock plate shield is visible after removing the steeringwheel.

2. An attempt to steel this vehicle resulted in the lower shifter bowl andrack being broken. The steel armored sleeve, however, protected thesector gear and steering wheel lock bolt from attack.

LOCKPLATESHIELD

the lock cylinder bowl. (Seephotograph 1.)

The lock cylinder bowl itselfis protected with a steel linerthat protects the sector gear andlock plate bolt from attack. (Seephotograph 2.)

The plastic sector gear is notserviceable as in previous years.The sector gear is staked to theignition lock drive shaft whichconnects the lock cylinder andthe sector. Prior to this change,the plastic sector gear wasserviced as part of a GM rackservice kit. The upper lockhousing assembly and thesector gear are now serviced asone unit when equipped withMATS. (See photograph 3.)

In order to steal the non-MATS vehicle, a would be thiefbreaks the lower side of theshift bowl to expose the rod thatis connected to the ignitionswitch located at the base ofthe column. The rack assemblyis then broken away fromthe ignition switch rod.(See photograph 4.) Lifting up onthe rod cranks and startsthe engine. (See photograph 5.)

At this point, however, the

steering wheel lock bolt is stilllocking the steering wheel.Using the screw driver the thiefbreaks away enough of the shiftbowl to expose the sector gearand bolt spring. A long nosepliers or a stiff piece of wirewith a hook on it is then used toremove the spring, allowing thesteering wheel lock plate to befreed from the steering wheellock plate bolt. The wheel nowturns freely and the vehicle canbe driven away.

With the MATS liner,however, while access can stillbe made to the ignition rod, itdoes prevent easy access to thesector gear by blocking the gearfrom attack. Also thesector/bolt spring is mountedbehind the gear instead of beingexposed from the left side. Thisprevents attack to the steeringlock bolt and keeps the steeringwheel lock plate (and steeringwheel) from being turned.(See photograph 6.)

There is still thepossibility that ifenough force isused, the splinesin the lock platecan be stripped

away or the plate can bemushroomed upward at thelock plate holes to allow thewheel to turn. Unfortunately,enough brute force canaccomplish this as some MATSequipped vehicles have beenstolen.

MATS will greatly slow downthe average car thief and thatmay be all the edge the policeneed. There is however, no needfor the locksmith to beapprehensive about lock serviceon one of these vehicles.

An easy way to tell if a vehicleis equipped with MATS is tolook between the steering wheeland the upper column housingon the left side. If you see ametal plate with a roundededge and two holes in it insteadof the plastic lock plate shield,then it is MATS equipped. Withthe exception of the removal ofthe guard plate, MATS serviceis business as usual. Unless


3. Despite the damage to the lower bowl, the sector gearand steering wheel lock bolt remain unscathed.

4. Breaking through the lower shifter bowlexposes the rack and ignition switch rod.

RACK &ROD

your business takes you intocomplete column rebuilding,you will never have to servicethe shift bowl liner.

To remove the steering wheellock plate guard, take notice ofthe position of the steering shaftblock groove. The block grooveis the area of the shaft that hasmore metal in between it’sadjacent splines than the others.This block groove must bemoved to the seven o’clockposition to provide access totwo larger holes in the lockplate. It is through these twolarger holes that the two legsthat secure the guard to the

upper lock housing passthrough for removal. Twonumber T15 Torx screws attachthis plate.

In order to turn the steeringshaft, a special tool from KentMoore is used to depress thelock bolt, relieving pressure onthe shaft. Kent Moore’s partnumber for this tool is BT91108.With the aid of another specialKent Moore tool, the steeringshaft is turned using either aratchet or the straight rod thatcomes with the tool. The partnumber for this tool is BT9213.

Insert the depressing toolthrough hole at the eleven

o’clock position and push downuntil you feel the bolt clear theplate. Put the BT9213 socketover the steering shaft and turnthe shaft in either direction toplace the block groove at theseven o’clock position. Removethe two screws in the guardplate that are now exposed andlift the guard straight out.

At this point, the locksmith isnow in familiar territory.Standard column procedurefrom this point is all thatremains. Keep your eyes openfor further changes from thedifferent manufacturers!


5. In a typical theft, the lower bowl is broken and therod and rack lifted to start the vehicle.

6. The sector gear and its components are now part ofa single assembly and cannot be serviced or replacedalone. The spring controlling the steering wheel lockbolt is also hidden from reach, making theft harder.

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SECTARSPRING


he Lexus LS400 is one ofLexus' best selling cars. The

LS400 is the flagship of theLexus line, it is also the top ofthe line automobile from Lexus.Photograph one shows a sideangle and tail view of the car.What is missing? The 1990through 1994 LS400 is the onlyLexus that does not have themodel name on the exterior. TheLexus also uses a unique HighSecurity key, utilizing a 4-TrackInternal High Security keyway.

(See photograph 2.)

Because of the complexity ofworking on this vehicle, we willcover it a step at a time, startingwith opening techniques andthen moving into lock removal.

Opening Techniques

This car can be a tricky one toopen. It is not difficult, justtricky. Let me explain, once youhave unlocked the car, it re-locks itself. The Lexus line usesa sophisticated locking system

that knows the key is notopening it, so the car's alarmsystem is activated and the doorlock motors re-lock the carwithin approximately onesecond of time to spare. Aninside the car opening tool,sometimes referred to as anUnder-The-Window tool, can beused to open this vehicle.A closer look at the tool in theworking position is shown inphotograph three. I usuallyenlist the customer's help when

Lexus LS400Service Procedures, Part I

By Michael Hyde

T

High SecurityAuto Service

1. The front and rear view of the Lexus LS400.


I open these cars, by having thecustomer pull up on the handlein fast repetitive motions, as Iunlock the car.

Ignition Lock

The ignition cylinder is easierto remove than it appears.There is a padded dash coverthat sits over the cylinder. Thecover simply snaps right offwith a gentle pulling pressureand then remove the screw thatholds the plastic bezel in place.(See photograph 4.) Stop now and

disconnect the battery, beforeproceeding. Insert a workingkey and turn the key to theACC (accessory) position.Reach in with a L-shaped probeon top of the ignition housingand depress the retainer andpull out the ignition cylinder.(See photograph 5.)

You can always tell a LexusHigh-Security ignition cylinderbecause when you look directlyat it you can see the two keyguides sticking out in thekeyway giving it a look of the

2. The Lexus 4-Track Internal HighSecurity key.

3. Opening the LS400 using an Under-The-Windowtool.

4. Remove the dash cover and the plastic bezel fromaround the lock.

5.The cylinder coming out of the housing. 6. Looking into the keyway reveals the High Security"H" shaped keyway.


letter "H." (See photograph 6.)

To disassemble the cylinderyou must first remove theignition face cap. It is held onby a roll pin located on the topand two staked posts found atits back. (See photograph 7.) Idrill a small hole directly next tothe pin in order to use a pinpunch to pry out the pin.

To remove the face capwithout damaging the twostaked posts, place the cylinderin a vise. Do not over tightenthe vise and crush the lock. Usea pin punch and a hammer tostrike the posts in consistentlight blows to each post insuccession to allow the posts totravel back through the cylinderhousing and avoid breaking the

posts. (See photograph 8.) Nextyou will need to remove theplug retaining ring on the backof the cylinder. Photograph nineis a look at theface cap onceit has beenremoved fromthe cylinderhousing.

Insert the keyand remove theplug. (See photo-graphs 10.) Notethe tumblerpositioning asseen in photo-graph 11. Thefirst threepositions arefor split tumblers

and the next four positions aresolid tumblers. There is noeighth position tumbler in theplug.

9. The face cap removed.

7. The face capis held to thelock body byboth a roll pinand two stakedposts.

8. Drill asmall holenext to thepin and pryit out witha pin punchor scratchawl. Thenuse apunch andgently tapthe stakedpoststhrough thebody toremove theface cap.

ROLL PIN

STAKEDPOSTS


14. The six 10mm bolts needed to lower this panel areeasily located and removed.

12. The trunk release lock. 13. Remove three screws and drop the knee bolster orlower panel to get to the trunk release lock.

10. Use the key to remove the plug. 11. The ignition is made up of a combination of splitand whole wafers. There is no eighth position tumblerin this lock.


Valet Lock-Out Switch

At the bottom driver's side ofthe dash board is a trunk releaselock. (See photograph 12.) In thelocked position you areprevented from opening thetrunk using the electricalrelease. This cylinder alsocontains all the tumblers thatappear in the trunk lock. To getto the lock, the lower cover hasto be removed and is held inplace by three screws. (Seephotograph 13.) As the panel islowered a large spring clip canbe seen. This clip holds thepanel to the steering column,pulling down on the panelreleases the clip.

The next panel to remove togain access to the lock is thelower driver's side panel, thereare six 10mm bolts to remove,and are quite easy to get to. Thefirst two 10mm bolts are foundat each end of the panel, easilyseen and easily removed. Twomore 10mm bolts are locateddirectly under the ParkingBrake Release, you can see themand remove them withouthaving to move anything out ofthe way. The last two bolts to

15. The panel lowered.

16. Remove the clip from around the lockand depress the lock retainer to unlock the

trunk release.

CLIP

remove are directly under theignition cylinder housing. (Seephotograph 14.)

There is a padded dash coverthat hides these last two bolts.The cover just snaps off with agentle pulling action (asdiscussed earlier in the Ignitionservicing section). There are acouple of snaps that hold thepanel in place and once youremove the six screws, gentlypull outward on the panel todislodge it. (See photograph 15.)

On the backside of the valetlock-out key cylinder there is a

spring wire clip. Remove theclip and push in on the lockretainer and the lock will returnto the unlocked position. (Seephotograph 16). Now if that isn'ta nice trick, I don't know whatis.)

There are two screws thathold the lock housing in place.Remove the screws and thenpull outward on the cylinderhousing to snap it apart fromthe front trim bezel. (Seephotograph 17.)

To avoid damaging it, theelectrical micro-switch on the

back of the lock must beremoved. It is held in place bytwo small screws. (Seephotograph 18.) Remove the E-clip that holds the tailpiece tothe lock. (See photograph 19.)Before you remove the tailpiece,take note of what I call theturning spring and its exactlocation. Remove the E-clip,remove the tailpiece, removethe turning spring.

The next piece to remove isthe plastic stopping disc. Thedisc is held in place on twosides of the housing, if you


20. Gently remove the plastic disc from the back of the lock.19. Remove the E-clip to remove the tailpiece.

18. Remove the micro-switch attached to the lock.17. Remove the two screws to remove the lockfrom the release.

DISC

gently, and I mean gently, use asmall screwdriver you canremove the disc by wedging itout of the way. Photograph 20shows one side of where thedisc is held in place. Once thedisc is removed be careful notto loose track of the push-springheld in place by the disc.

Photograph 21 is a view of thelock disassembled to the pointwhere the lock cylinder can beaccessed. The lock cylinder canbe removed from the housingby sliding it out the rear of theassembly. It may be necessary topush in on the lock retainer toease this procedure. (Seephotographs 22.)

Remove the re-usable face capand then slide the plug out thefront of the cylinder housing.(See photograph 23.) It may benecessary to push in on theretainer to ease the plug out,watch out for the retainer as theplug is exposed the retainer andthe spring behind it may goflying. There are eight tumblerpositions in this lock, first fourare solid, next three are split,and the last one is solid. (Seephotograph 24.)

Next issue we'll cover thedoor, trunk and glove box lockremoval.


22.Removethe lockcylinder.Pressingon theretainermay benecessarytofacilitatetheremoval.

21. Wenow haveaccess tothe lockcylinder.

24. The plug and all of its tumblers.

23. The disassembled lock.

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RETAINER

Do you havean E-mail address?

Send it to us!

AOL: NATL LOCKInternet: [email protected]


uring the 1950's and intothe mid-60's the door

handle and lock cylinder onChevrolet and GMC pick-uptrucks, and larger models aswell, was a fairly straight-forward affair. (See photograph

1.) Take off the inner doorpanel, remove a couple ofscrews and the handle came offthe door for servicing.

About 1966, General Motorstook the lock cylinder out of thehandle mechanism and put it

on the door panel, below thehandle. (See photograph 2.) Thatsimplified service. Just removethe inner door panel, pull thelock retaining clip and the lockcylinder could easily beremoved.

GM Large BodyTruck Door Lock Removal

By Jake Jakubuwski

D

2. Around 1966 the lock wasseparated from the handle.

1. Before mid-1960, the Chevrolet/GMC truck door handle and lock wereone unit and easily serviced.

3. The new style GM truck lock and handle. 4. The inner steel panel, while needing to be removed,has all the internal door and window componentsattached to it.

However, at the time GM wasdesigning the 1988, full-sized,Chevrolet Silverado doorhandle/lock cylindermechanism the idea of servicesimplicity got lost. (Seephotograph 3.) The lock nowbecame an integral part of thehandle and the cylinder retainerrelease behind the windowtrack!

Also included in thechanges, GM attached thewindow regulator, thewindow drive motorassembly and other doorcomponents to the inner, steel

door panel. (See photograph 4.)

The result was, to say theleast, interesting when anunsuspecting locksmithattempted to service these newstyle locks on Silverados!Taking off the padded doorpanel, the locksmith wouldencounter the inner panel. Noproblem! Just take out all those

screws and .....

As the last screw wasremoved the inner panel,window, window regulator, andall - made a nosedive for theground. While the haplesslocksmith made a desperategrab to forestall disaster, theedges of the inner door panelcame alive and began chewingfinger flesh!

To save yourself the trouble,as well as your fingers, firsttape the window in place thenremove the padded interiorpanel. (See photograph 5.) After


5. Tape the window in place before starting. 6. Loosen but do not remove this bolt on theinner door panel.

8. Pulling the handle out gains access to thelinkage on the door handle assembly.

7. Loosen the latchusing a T30 Torxscrew driver.

removing all the screws on theinner steel panel - except theone in photograph six. To avoidtrouble, simple loosen this boltfor now.

Then loosen the Torx screwsthat holds the latch mechanismin place. (See photograph 7.) Afterremoving the handle bolts, thisallows the handle assembly topull far enough away from thedoor to remove the retaining

clips from the linkage rods,allowing you to take the handleassembly to your truck forservicing. (See photograph 8.)Whew! To reassemble, yousimply (Simply?) reversed theprocedure. Repeating the strainand aggravation - especially ifyou have hands the size ofmine.

The problem is, that afterloosening the latch mechanism

to gain enough "play" to exposethe clips on the linkage forremoval, the door handlelinkage often pulls out of it'sseat in the latch assembly andrequires a lot of maneuveringand finagling to coax it backinto place. (See photograph 9.)

Fortunately, a way was foundto ease the strain andaggravation associated withservicing these locks.


9. This rod often becomes disconnected fromthe latch during lock removal and is verydifficult to replace.

11. If electric windows are used, remove anddisconnect the window control module.

12 Remove the handle retaining screws with a 10mmsocket.

10. Remove the window crank and inner doorpanel.

To remove the lock cylinderfrom these vehicles, remove thewindow crank and take thescrews out of the arm rest andremove the padded door panel.(See photograph 10.) If electricwindows are used, disconnectand remove the electric window

control module as shown inphotograph 11.

Remove the handle retainingscrews. One screw is found onthe outside door edge. Theother is found inside the doorand you'll need a 10mm socketand a 6" extension to remove it.

(See photograph 12.) If you don'twant to drop the screw in thedoor cavity, put a little of theadhesive that holds the dustshield in place on your socket.(See photograph 13.)

Now you can ease the handlemodule far enough out of the


14. Pull the handle out just enough to reachinside with a probe.

15. Use the probe to depress the lock's retainer and remove it from the handle. The position of the retainer'saccess hole in the handle and the lock's retainer seen above.

13. To prevent the screw from dropping into thedoor, place some of the dust cover adhesiveinside the socket.

door to get a small hookedprobe into position to depressthe cylinder retainer that holdsthe lock cylinder in place. (Seephotographs 14 and 15.)

While depressing the retainer,push on the face of the cylinderand let it fall back into the doorcavity. (See photograph 16.) Thiswill give you enough

maneuvering room togently work the handlemodule free of thedoor. Once free, let ithang over the edge ofthe opening. You mightwant to wrap a rag orpiece of paper towelingto the handle assembleto prevent it fromscratching the doorsurface.

Next, reach in thedoor cavity and pullthe lock cylinderforward far enough toallow you to removethe retaining clip thatsecures the cylinder tothe linkage. (Seephotograph 17.) Removethe cylinder and

service as necessary.

Regardless of the type ofservice performed on the lockcylinder, the next step is tomake a duplicate key and cutthe head of the key. This willgive you an operating key witha long narrow shoulder. Laythis key aside for the timebeing.

Now re-attach the lockcylinder to the linkage. Next,insert the special duplicate youmade into the cylinder and turnit about 90° so that the keycannot be pulled out of the lock.Then, bring the handle moduleinto position and insert the keyand cylinder into its sleeve. Donot try to seat the cylinder atthis time!

Gently work the handleassembly into the properposition. It's a tight fit but witha little effort and patience it willsnap into place. When you'vegotten the handle replaced, usea pair of needle nose pliers topull on your special duplicatekey until you hear (and see) thecylinder seat. (See photograph18.)

Replace the two handleretaining screws - careful withthe one to the front of thehandle - check the operation ofthe lock and re-assemble therest of the door as normal.


16. Push the lock out of the handle. 17. Pull the lock out of the door and disconnect the linkage.

18. After the handle has been placed back intothe door, use the special key and pull the lockinto its seated position.

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kay, why do auto work?Is it for the riches? The

fame? A hobby? Maybe it's thecut up knuckles and hands?

Or, maybe, the late nightopenings in sub-zero weatherfor unappreciative customerswithout money is just one oflife's little pleasures.

Or, for those of us in warmerclimates, maybe it's that mid-afternoon drive in the sauna-on-wheels that's so enjoyable;heading out to make keys in astranded and enclosed vehiclethat's been basking in the sun'smidday rays, frying on theblack asphalt griddle below;and when we're done we get tocollect payment from acustomer verging on heatstroke.

For some reason, it seems thatno other field in locksmithinghas so many individuals so hell-bent on performing masochistictasks as the automotivelocksmith. Even a safeman willwhine after experiencing agrueling day of automotiveservice. (I hope Dave McOmiesees this!)

So, why do we do it? Why dowe go through all the trouble?

For several reasons, I think.

The most mundane of which is -to make a living. Other, moreethereal reasons include a senseof accomplishment, a sense ofprofessionalism, an awarenessthat nobody else can do whatyou do or do it as well.However, and a I may bewrong, I believe that in allserious automotive locksmiths,there is a sense, a belief, thatthere's a gold mine out there,and given enough time, it willbe found.

Well, guess what, locksmith?It's out there and this column isthe map to your treasure. That'snot to say it's easy. And, it's notfor everyone. Automotivelocksmiths are probably themost unappreciated, underpaidand overworked trade peoplethere are. But, if you're willingto pay the price, the payoff canbe great!

Now let me tell where thattreasure can be found —Dealerships! That's rightdealerships. However,remember, with every benefitthere's a stipulation, a catch, thesmall print we often overlook.So, before I expand on thepotential, let me explain thedown side and why this type ofwork is not for every locksmith.

With dealer work praise andacknowledgment of your skill israrely recognized. When it is,concessions often follow (i.e.lower pricing, volumediscounts, favors, etc.).

Expect to do large amounts ofwork on credit. While 30 days istypical, 60, 90 and even 120days are sometimes realizeddue to those mysteriouslymissing invoices, work ordersor gremlins.

Be prepared for a paper chase.Dealerships usually requireyour invoice, a work ticket anda P.O. (short for PurchaseOrder) before they can submityour invoice for payment. If anyone of these items is missing -you got it - you don't get paid!

The work order is filled outby the person who summonedyou (usually the New or UsedCar Manager). After he findstime to fill out the ticket, theP.O. must be filled out. In somedealerships the manager doesboth. In others it means thelocksmith will be found waitingat the parts counter.

Another drawback is time.Aside from the paper chase,most dealerships aren't overly

There’s No RainbowOver This Pot Of Gold

By Tom Seroogy

O

(See Rainbow on page 24)


QUESTION:What went wrong? I was

called to open a 1993Honda Civic 4 door. Myopening manual directedme to an Under-The-Window opening tool.When I used it I couldn'tget it to go up under thewindow. I switcheddirections and got it caught.I ended up getting into thecar using another tool, butstill couldn't get my Under-The-Window tool dislodged.

C.W. ColeyTexas

ANSWER:The Under-The-Window

tool is probably one of themost versatile and usefulcar opening tools I own.Unfortunately, there aretimes I take its applicationfor granted and get itcaught in the door. Whilethis normally means I get itcaught after having gottenthe one end into the car'spassenger area, there aretimes that it gets caughtdown inside the door,typically wrapped aroundthe window track andarmature. At this point,door panel removal isnecessary to remove thetool.

When using this tool, it'sbest to use a good light tomaneuver around theobstacles in the door.

As far as opening theCivic, it's very simple. All

2- door Honda modelsfrom the mid-1980's to1993 use horizontal locklinkage. All 4- door Hondamodels for the same perioduse vertical lock linkage. Inall cases the linkage isunprotected and readilyaccessible. In some of thesevehicles the lock has a lazypawl.

In your particular case, a4-door Civic, use a wedgeand light to locate the lockbutton rod near the latchside of the door. Use a slidelock tool to grasp the rodand lift to open.

QUESTION:I had to make keys for a

1994 GM Cadillac withairbag and radio/cruisecontrol horn pad for one ofmy dealers. Normally, I'djust get the codes fromRoadside Assistance, butthe codes they gave medidn't work.

While the entire pro-cedure went down withouta hitch, the radio locked upsomehow and I couldn't getit to operate. Did I dosomething wrong?

Russ McGelvickOhio

ANSWER:No. But let me explain a

little about GM radio/horn pad systems.

GM currently has twoRadio/Cruise Control hornpad systems: Delco-LOC Iand Delco-LOC II, bothdesigned to thwart radiotheft.

The Delco-LOC I system,as far as I am able toderive, was introduced inthe 1986 Pontiac 6000 LE,with the radio controls builtinto the horn pad. On thissystem, the horn pad andradio are integrally tied toone another through theuse of a programmedmodule or chip. In order forthe radio to operate, themodule located in the hornpad must match themodule in the radio. If themodules do not match, or ifthe horn pad or power areremoved, the radio goesinto a locked, LOC, modeand cannot be operated.

Because column servicerecommends batterydisconnection, uponpowering up the radio afterservice is complete, theradio will automatically gointo the LOC mode. If thecorrect horn pad isreinstalled, the radio can beunlocked by depressing theMUTE button.

If the horn pad or radio isa replacement, a matchingmodule must be placed inthe respective component.This procedure must bedone by a dealer.

The Delco-LOC II systemmade its debut in GM's

larger 1989 Oldsmobileand Cadillac vehicles. Thisis probably the system withwhich you are working.While this system will becovered in greater detail inour next issue, let medescribe what probablyhappened and the solution.

Unlike the Delco-LOC Isystem, the Delco-LOC IIsystem uses a six digit codeto LOC and unlock theradio. When activated or inthe SECURE mode, anyvoltage interruption to theradio causes it to go intothe LOC mode, making theradio inoperable.

Considering you servicedan airbag column, I assumeGM procedures werefollowed and the batterywas disconnected. Becausethe radio went into theLOC mode, the previousowner must have had theradio in the SECURE mode.

To unlock the radio, theuser code must be entered.Because there are threedifferent versions for thisprocedure, they cannot becovered here.

Unlocking a radiowithout the use of a usercode is pretty muchrestricted to a GM dealer. Inshort this procedureinvolves retrieving a radioID number and using aTouchtone phone toretrieve a factory backupcode. Unfortunately, theonly way to access this


concerned with your schedule.Expect to spend time trying tofind the manager who calledyou for service. Expect to spendtime trying to find the car theywant you to service. Expect tospend time chatting withinquisitive salespersons, carporters, service writers andmechanics. Expect to spendtime trying to find the managerso you can hand over the keysand do the paper chase. In otherwords, expect to spend time,unproductive time.

Expect that the car you haveto do right now has been sittingin the lot without keys for morethan a week.

Also, expect lower fees. Noanimal on the face of the earthis as "deal" conscious as theauto dealer. Life, to them, isdealing. So, expect to be askedfor "a deal," expect to do "afavor." Expect to hear, "as longas you're here, can you...?"

Expect to give the dealer thesame price, at all times of theday and night, and under anycircumstance. Expect beingasked not to charge becausethey had you make keys for thewrong car.

Finally, expect little loyaltyfrom the dealer. Dealers areknown to change locksmiths fora dollar-a-car lower price, or fornot being able to service them"NOW." Dealer work is tough,its demands often unrealistic!

Now, if you're still readingand want the "Rest of the Story,"here it is.

According to a recent issue ofthe American Business List outof Omaha, Nebraska, there areapproximately 14,141 lock-smiths (shops) in the country.But there are:

24,943 New Car Dealers73,170 Used Car Dealers64,618 Body Shop & RepairStores

22,666 Auto Rental/LeasingStores182,292 Repair/ServiceStations83,406 Service StationsAdd that up and what do we

have? 451,095 business that canbe shared by 14,141 locksmiths!(There are less locksmiths thanthat if you exclude those that donot do auto work.) That's right,almost one-half millionopportunities where we canoffer our services asProfessional AutomotiveLocksmiths.

And to top this list, don'tforget the 558 Auto Auctionsand 1275 Repossessors aroundthe country, Their business is awindfall for any locksmith wholands the account.

Next issue we'll discuss theorganizational structure of adealership. Believe it or not,their very mode of operationshould make solicitation forbusiness a dream come true.

information is by entering adealer number.

Again, we will morethoroughly cover this systemand its operating proceduresin our next newsletter.

QUESTION:A customer drove in an

older model Datsun usingan X7 keyway. While thekey operated the ignitionokay, about 25 percent ofthe time the car wouldn'tturn over. He claims amechanic checked out allthe systems and couldn'tfind anything wrong, butneither can I. Can you?

Steve MisowitzCalifornia

ANSWER:While I never give a

"guarantee" diagnosis overthe phone (or bynewsletter) there areignition lock problems thatare easily misdiagnosed asrelating to some othersystem on the car (i.e.battery, fuse, etc.).

In your particular case,Steve, it very well could bethe electrical switchattached to the back of theignition lock. In short,when the key is turned, atailpiece or shaft turns arotary switch at the back ofthe lock. In many instances,this switch is the failure. Insome instances the center

hub or rotor that the lockshaft turns becomescracked or splits in half.When the key turns, thebroken rotor does not turnfar enough to go to theIGNITION START mode. Inother cases, the switch isjust worn out.

To check for the problem,remove the switch from theback of the lock. Inspectthe rotor for cracks orsplitting. If this checks outokay, place the switch backinto the ignition lock, butdo not screw it down.Instead, while holding thekey in the START position,slightly rotate the switch inboth directions while in the

lock. See if there isintermittent contact. Whilethis procedure is not a surefire method for telling youwhether a switch is Good itwill definitely tell you if it isBad.

I f there is a split orcracked rotor, if there isintermittent contact, or ifthis seems like the mostlikely cause of the startingproblem, the switch needsto be replaced. Switchreplacements for manyforeign autos are availablefrom an Auto SecurityProducts distributor. If notavailable there, contact adealer.

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(Rainbow, from page 22)

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tedious and sometimesdifficult task in GM

steering column service is theremoval of the steering wheellock plate retaining ring. Usingnormal tools and proceduresthe lock plate is compressedusing a steering wheel lockplate compressor and then thelocksmith is left to the mercy ofa couple of screw drivers towork the retaining ring from itsseat and up the knurled,splined, broached, andthreaded steering shaft.

One tool making this taskmore tolerable is HPC'sSWLPC-1 Steering Wheel LockPlate Compressor. (Seephotograph 1.) The uniquedesign of this tool allows it tonot only compress the steeringlock plate and but includes alanding onto which the snapring can slide, eliminating thetorturous removal of the ringover the entire steering shaft.Because the ring remains on thetool until column reassembly,replacing the ring is simply amatter of sliding it down off thetool and into its seat.

The SWLPC-1 comes withboth a standard thread andmetric thread center post toaccommodate the two steeringshaft threading patterns usedby GM. It also includes two setscrews, one standard and one

metric, so the tool can be usedfor the tilt/telescopic column.

This tool is available fromHPC distributors. For adistributor near you, contactHPC at 708-671-6280.

Another slick little tool formaking the job easier is theClincher by Pro-Lok. (seephotograph 2.) While originallydesigned to expedite thereassembly of GM face caps,this tool can be used on avariety of auto face capsprovided they are similar in size

to the standard GM.

To use the tool, place anassembled lock with face capinto the Clincher, making surethat two of the cap's retainingtabs are in-line with theClincher's handles. Then, withthe lock in place, squeeze thehandles.

In one easy motion the facecap tabs are pressed snugly intoplace. Open the handles androtate the lock to position thetwo remaining tabs under thehandles. Squeeze the handles toset the tabs. When complete theface cap is tight and secure.

Making Life EasyBy Tom Seroogy

1. HPC's SWLPC-1 Steering Wheel Lock Plate Compressor allows for easyremoval and replacement of the steering lock plate retaining ring.

A

For more information, contactPro-Lok at 1060 N. Batavia Ste.G, Orange, CA, 92667, 714-633-0681.

Throughout 1994 The NationalLocksmith magazine has runarticles generating a key for theAlpha Technologies ignition

used on the 1991 through 1994Chevrolet Cavalier, and the1992 through 1993 OldsmobileAchieva, Buick Skylark, andPontiac Grand Am.

Of highest interest is a toolthat allows the locksmith todecode the lock without anydisassembly.

Introduced almost a year anda half ago the AlphaCracker bySaber Tool Co. has done verywell. (See photograph 3.)Utilizing a "pass/no pass"method for reading the waferdepths, this tool is extremelyeasy to use and read. The onlyfactor in failing to generate akey using this tool seems to beoperator error (outside of adamaged lock, that is).

In fact, according to SaberTool manufacturer, TomMazzone, failure is typicallycaused by one of four reasons:Failure to read instructions,failure to practice, equipmentfailure and failure to executeproperly.

While Mazzone points outthat the first two conditions arethe responsibility of thelocksmith, he did offer somehelpful tips regarding theequipment and executionproblems.

1. In general it is not theequipment that fails, it is theinconsistent lock tolerances thatmake even a good key machinelook bad. As a matter ofpractice, Mazzone recommendsthat punch machines not beused, or, if they are, the slopesof the cuts be filed flat from cutto cut. Better yet, the HPC1200CM or Framon can be usedto cut a laser style key. Thisnormally makes up for the lockinconsistencies.


3. Saber Tool's AlphaCracker let's the locksmith generate AlphaTech keys without disassembly.

2. The Pro-Lok "Clincher" makes fast, easy face capreplacement.


2. If you have trouble readingwhile moving the key from thefront wafer to the back, startwith the back wafer and moveforward. Use the wafer slide toinsert the key fully into the lockand then slowly slide the keyout. Listen and feel for atumbler to drop. If a tumblercan be heard or felt, doublecheck by pushing the keyforward into the wafer. If thekey stops against the wafer,move onto the next deeperincrement depth key for thattumbler.

3. Make sure that the uncutside of the depth key iscontacting the bottom/top sideof the keyway. Because this is adouble sided key there is atendency for the tumblersnot being measured to push thekey up into the tumblers thatare being measured. This, ofcourse, makes for inconsistent

and incorrect reading. (Seeillustration 4.)

4. The key must be perfectlyparallel to the keyway. Tiltingthe key up or down allows it toslide beneath or slide into awafer. This too gives incorrectreadings. (See illustration 5.)

For pricing and delivery,contact Allied Lock & Supply at800-544-2102. For technicalinformation, contact Saber ToolCo. at 708-843-1017.

4. The uncut side of the depth key must be pushed against thelock's keyway.

5. Any tilting of the depth key willrender an incorrect reading.

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ith all the improve-ments that car man-

ufacturers have made withregards to 'theft-proofing' theirautomobiles, the locksmithmust be made aware of how tosafely and quickly unlock andrelease car doors.

This information must betimely and easy to follow. Theother component of a caropening system is to have thetools that will do the job. TheHigh Tech toolsdo accomplishthat easily andwith a minimumof effort on yourpart. Let us firstdiscuss thei n f o r m a t i o nmaterials part ofthe car openingset. (See photo-graph 1.)

The paper partof the 2200 caropening set is asits name implies,ENCYCLOPEDIC.The complete setcomes withseveral books thatI will list briefly:

1. The Automo-tive Encyclopedia

and Lockout Manual containseverything you wanted to knowabout opening cars, the correcttools and procedures to use, theoriginal Briggs and Strattonlock part numbers, keying kits,lock rotation to open, space anddepth charts, and VIN chartinformation just to mention afew of the benefits. The onlything that this manual does notcontain are the actual car codes.Anything, and I mean anything,

else you would ever want toknow is listed here.

If you had to carry thismanual in your service vehicle,you would develop into aweight lifter. It is just too bigand cumbersome (complete) tocarry everywhere with you, soHigh Tech Tools has developedthe (Once called Mini-Manuals)Field Manuals.

2. The field manuals comecurrently in 3 volumes. They are

Dale Does: High Tech Car Opening ToolsEvery newsletter Dale will review a car opening and

automotive tool manufacturer. This issue, Dale does High Tech.By Dale Libby

W

FEATURE ARTICLE

1. The High Tech 2200 Car Opening set. 2. The tools are color coded to makeselection easy.

broken down into AmericanCars in Volume 1; ForeignVehicles, Trucks and Vans inVolume 2; and newer vehiclesand trucks in the FieldM a n u a l / E n c y c l o p e d i aSupplement.

These manuals are smallerand can be stored in theOptional High Tech ToolCarrying Case. They containboth graphical and pictorialmethods of opening vehicles.The tool shown is listed by itspart number and by a graphicalpicture, also listing the handlecolor (if applicable).

The drawings are completeenough in themselves to showthe locksmith how to open anycar. The pictures of an actualopening may help to clarify thecorrect placement of the tool ona real car door. Between thedrawings and pictures in thefield manual, no car will belocked for long.

3. Next, in the informationhighway, come several smallervolumes. One is about servicingSaturn cars. The nextindispensable volume is theAutomotive Lock ServiceVolume. In this book,procedures are listed andpictures shown for servicingmany steering columns, bothold and new styles of Ford, GM,and Chrysler.

Additional informationcovered in this Service Manualinclude the following:

a. Lock Picking Methods

b. Lock Impressioning

c. Visual Lock and Keydecoding

d. Lock Progression chartsfor Ford, Chrysler, and GM

e. Try out keys that you can cut

f. Steering column servicingfor both old and new,including MATS andVATS/PASSKEY systems

g. A large section on Depthand Spacing for Foreign KeysVehicles.

Also included a video tapelibrary of car openings andsteering wheel servicingincluding VATS/PASSKEY andMATS. The videos are wellmade and enhanced withcomputer generated graphicsthat repeatedly show how toopen a vehicle.

The next part of the High Tech2200 opening system to bediscussed are the actual tools.These are well formed tools thatwill give years of good service.Simply put, they do what theysay they will accomplish with aminimum of effort.

Another innovative part ofthe High Tech tools are the colorcoded handles. The instructionsfor opening the car in someinstances will state use the REDhandle, the GREEN handle, orthe CLEAR handle. When thetools are in the tool pouch, it iseasy to identify the tool you willneed. (See photograph 2.)

With the advent of more andmore tools being needed, HighTech has consolidated sometools, making one end for aspecific car, and the oppositehandle end effective on othercars. These tools are verydistinctive and easy torecognize without color coding.

The next part of the hardwarepart of the kit include a set ofSUPER WEDGES. There is adouble wedge and two singlewedges. These plastic wedgeshave a slot formed in theiredges so one can insert a car

light to illuminate hard to findlock rods, linkages, bell cranks,and holes in the doors. Thesechannels keep the wand of thelight safe from pressure of thewindow against the door. Howmany times have we broken alight like this?

Last, but not least is the vinyl'soft' carrying case. There aretwo large pockets for tools, andtwo smaller pockets to carry thefield manuals. This is anexcellent way to store the toolsand manuals for ease of use;Everything under one cover.

As with any current caropening tool set, you mustperiodically have to update theset, both in the information andthe hardware parts. Each year,High Tech Tools sends anupdate letter to registered usersof their tools and manualsusually in early November.

Their are several moneysaving options and goodiesassociated with the updatenotice. High Tech Tools not onlycan supply with qualitylocksmith tools and parts, it alsohas a printing service that cansupply business cards,stationary, letterheads, andcustom invoices and servicestickers. For further informationon ordering a tool set, to get onthe mailing list, or just havequestions, contact, HighTech Tools, Drawer 450370,Miami, Florida 33145. Or, call800-323-8324.


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one are the days when Icould easily open any

model at will and, generally, inonly seconds. I remember whenI could bet a service stationowner that I could open anyvehicle on his lot faster with mylockout tool than he could withthe keys, as long as those keysstarted in his pocket. Afterwinning many tanks of neededgas, I had proved my pointseveral times over.

Recently, however, the automakers have slowed me downwith their newer, tougher locksystem designs, allowing onlythose with highly researchedtechnical manuals and thecorresponding tools to eventhink about attempting akeyless entry.

I am convinced that the automakers are on target with theirsmall target lock system designsas this keeps the common stereotypical thief from easilyentering our vehicles usinganything from a coat hanger toa homemade flat bar tool. Onthe other hand, modelsdesigned today leave only justenough exposure for theprofessional to rescue thegeneral public in a damage-freemanner. (See photograph 1.)

I'm sure they intentionally leave

us (the professional lock-outtechnicians) this slight linkageexposure so that the generalpublic has a practical remedy totheir lockout situation, otherthan breaking an expensivewindow. Otherwise, 30,000 to40,000 of us per day would bestanding around unsafe streetcorners waiting for the originaldealer to send a new key...not asituation I want my family toever be in.

We will continue being able toopen the vehicles now and intothe future, but to easily openthem is a thing of the past.

Before the 90's models, justabout anyone could open mostany model and would acceptthe job for the price of a taxiride to arrive at the job site. Allthat has changed. Now only thewell-trained technicians willsurvive the coming years,which means a much greaterpay reward will surface fromtheir continued education andexperience. The fewer of us outin the field who can handle thenew age of cars, the highervolume of calls we will receivealong with higher pay per calldue to a rapid swing of supplyand demand.

Opening The 1994 Honda Accord 2 DoorThree methods for opening this Honda.

By D. Scott Selby

G

FEATURE ARTICLE

1. The 1994 Honda Accord two door.

Three ways to Open the1994 Honda Accord(2 Door)

Method One

The linkage rods are wellprotected with a black plasticshield but there isapproximately 1" of locklinkage exposure that can becontacted and moved to itsposition. The shield is directlybehind and slightly below theoutside door handle. (Seeillustration 2.)

Place large end of Flex-a-Wedge™ 4" forward of outsidedoor handle. Use a probe light ifyou think you need extra helpto locate the gap at the end oflinkage shield which is wherethe linkage exposure isavailable.

Start by inserting the large endof the Inverted Z-Tool® 2"forward of the outside doorhandle. (See Illustration 3.)

• Pinch off the #3 depth guideand insert until depthmatches weather-stripping.

• Make 1/4 turn counter-clockwise so hook swingsunder exposed lock linkage.

• Lift up on tool to hook linkagefrom below.

• In one motion, twist handleclockwise (to bind hook ontolinkage) as you leverage thelinkage forward to itsunlocked position.

NOTE: Linkage exposure is soslight you will have to movelinkage forward in small bits tofully move linkage to its openedposition. Otherwise the toolshaft hits up against theadjacent sheet metal preventingthe full travel of the locklinkage.

As you can see, the modelrequires precise positioning ofthe tool to grasp onto the onlyavailable section of the locksystem. The depth guide aidstremendously in locating theexacting target.

Method Two

The target is a small bell crankmechanism. Pinch off at the #3depth guide and insert largeend of Z-Tool® directly abovekey cylinder. Keep trying tocontact and push forward as itmay require many attempts asit's tough.

Method Three

This was given to me by A-1Locksmiths of Ashville, N.C.who says to use AutoBuster toolon the drivers door only if thereis no after market windowtinting installed.

D. Scott Selby is the researcher anddeveloper of the Master Z-ToolSystem®. For more informationcontact: 800-336-8812.


2. Unlike previous years, this Honda's linkage is well protected.

3. Inserting the Inverted Z-Tool.


must, I use the super bright caropening light from Jiffy ModelAL3900, it uses a 9.6 Makitarechargeable battery and is soldthrough Pro-Lok.

Ignition LockThe ignition lock is located inthe dash and has a large rubberring that encircles the cylinder.

The rubberring andplastic bezeljust snap itoff exposingthe lock. (Seep h o t o g r a p h3.) Now stopand dis-connect theb a t t e r yb e f o r eproceeding.

Photograph four is a view fromunder the dash showing thebottom of the ignition cylinderhousing where the ignitioncylinder retainer is located. It isnot necessary to depress thecylinder retainer from thisposition, I show it as a point ofreference.

To remove the cylinder, firstput the key in the ignition andturn it to the ACC or accessoryposition. Then depress theretainer by inserting a longnarrow probe with a small 90°L-shaped hook on the end toreach in through the cylinder

Top To Bottom Camry (Continued from Front Cover)

FEATURE ARTICLE

2. Finding the open spot of lock linkage is tricky but notimpossible.

3. Lock with rubber ring and plastic bezel removed. 4. The ignition housing is clearly seen from underthe dash area. But, it is not necessary to remove thecylinder from this position.

IGNITION HOUSING

RETAINER


5. Use an L-shaped probe to reach thecylinder retaining button and removethe ignition cylinder from the housing.

9. The door lock is integrated into the handle. 10. Start by removing the door latch release trim.Gently remove the bottom side first and then the top.This part breaks easily.

6. Drill and pry out this face cap retaining pin.

7. One of two staked posts that hold theface cap to the lock.

8. These vehicles utilize the Toyota split wafer system.

FACE CAP RETAINING PIN

STAKEDPOST

hole opening in the dash anddepress the retainer on thebottom side of the ignitionhousing. (See photograph 5.)

The ignition facecap is held to thecylinder housingwith a retaining pinand two staked posts.To remove the pin,

drill a small hole next to the pinand pry it out with a pin punch.(See photograph 6.)

Use a tru-arc ring spreader toremove the plug retaining ringfrom the rear of the ignitioncylinder plug. Place the ignitioncylinder housing in a vise withthe face pointing downwardand make it snug, but do notover tighten. There are two pot-metal posts that stick out of the


11. These screws and fastenersmust be removed from the panel

for its removal.

12. After removing the handle mounting screws,the key code can be seen by tilting the unitslightly out of the car.

13. Arrow 1 shows the flange that makes it necessary toremove the handle before servicing the lock. Arrow 2 is the10mm bolt that holds the lock to the handle.

CODE

12

ignition face-cap and throughthe cylinder housing that werestaked in place at the factory.(See photograph 7.)

I have found that consistent,light blows to each post insuccession will allow the poststo travel back through thecylinder housing withoutdamage. If you are heavyhanded, take your time to avoidbreaking the posts.

These Toyota's use the newsplit tumblers mixed in withsolid wafer-type tumblers.These split tumblers are alwaysthe same depth as it's opposingsplit tumbler, since they ride onthe same landing. (Seephotograph 8.) I personallybelieve this is a bad design flaw,because as the edge of the keywears the landing will becomesmaller, thus the split tumblerswill start to bind and not ride attheir correct height.)

After you code the cylinder,place the cylinder face-cap inthe face down position on anonsharing surface and gentlypush the housing back onto theface-cap, it may be necessary togently tap in place. Now thatthe face-cap is seated onto thecylinder housing you can re-stake the face cap posts.

Door LockThe door lock cylinders on the

Camry are integrated into thehandle assembly. (See photograph9.)

Start door panel removal bytaking off the inside door latchrelease trim. (See photograph 10.)Insert a small screwdriverbetween the trim plate and thelever to allow for the trim plateto clear the retainer pin on thebottom section and repeat this


15. Location of the trunk lock.

16. This liner must be removed from the deck lid before gainingaccess to the light assembly and trunk lock.

14. The disassembled door lock.

17. View of the trunk lock with the light section removed. 18. Be careful not to lose the ball bearing andspring located in the back of the lock's plug.

19. Thedisassembledlock.

20. Gently remove the plastic cover over the plug.

SPRING &BALL BEARING

HOLE


step for the top section. (Inote the importance of thisstep in order to avoidbreaking this trim piece, as Ihave done so in the past.)

Photograph 11 indicates thefive screws that must beremoved at the front part ofthe panel and the two trimfasteners located at the backof the panel. Simply push inon the center of the fastenerplug and then pull out thefastener housing forremoval.

The next task is to remove

the door panel and disconnectany electrical connections. Youdo not want to stretch them tothe point that the wires snap orbreak. Gently pull back theinner panel plastic liner andremove the two 10mm boltsholding the handle assembly tothe door skin. By pulling the

handle assembly out from thebottom it is easy to read the keycode stamped on the side of thedoor cylinder. (See photograph12.)

Because a mounting flange ortab on the lock lies between thevehicles body and the handle, itis necessary to remove the

whole handle to service thelock. If you disconnect thehandle and lock linkage youcan then easily remove thehandle/lock assembly. (Seephotograph 13.) Remove the10mm bolt that holds the lockcylinder to the handle assemblyto separate lock from handle.

Photograph 14 shows the doorlock cylinder completelydisassembled.

Trunk LockThe trunk lock cylinder,

despite its appearance, islocated in the deck lid andcomes out the front. (Seephotograph 15.) The rear centertaillight assembly must beremoved to gain access to thecylinder. It is necessary to use a7mm socket to remove the nutsthat hold the light assembly inplace.

These models are equippedwith inside trunk and gasrelease levers.

Before the trunk lock can beremoved a liner has to beremoved to gain access to thetaillight assembly and lockcylinder. (See photograph 16.)Photograph 17 is a view of thelight assembly set to the side.

The trunk lock cylinder isheld in place by the standardhorseshoe clip. Remove the clipand remove the lock. Before youdisassemble the lock cylindercompletely be cautious of theball bearing in the rear sectionof the lock. (See photograph 18.)The lock cylinder is showncompletely disassembled inphotograph 19.

Glove Box LockTo disassemble and remove

the plug for servicing, pop offthe plastic cap on the front of


21. This retainer must be depressed for the plug to slide out the front ofthe lock.

22. The disassembled glove box lock.

RETAINER


the lock. (See photograph 20.)The spring plug retainertumbler must be depressed toslide the plug out the front. (Seephotograph 21.) Photograph 22shows the lock disassembledfor rekeying purposes.

Keying Kit & TumblersThis model Toyota uses the

Auto Security Products KeyingKit Number A30-108, usingsolid and split tumblers. Theoriginal tumblers are stampedwith a depth number. (Seephotograph 23.)

Making First KeyTo make a first key to the car:

Method #1: Remove the two10mm bolts holding thepassenger side door handleassembly and pull it outward atthe bottom and read the codestamped on the side of the doorcylinder lock.

Method #2: Remove a door ortrunk cylinder and disassembleto decode the wafers to make amaster key to the car.

23. The ASP pinning kit and Toyota split wafer system.

SpecificationsTumbler Locations:1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 (Bow to Tip)

x x x x x x x x Ignition, Door, Trunk

x x x x Glove Box

Code Series: 10000-15000

Key Blank: llco X217/TR47 /Silca TOY43

HPC 1200CM Code Card: CF208

MACS: 2

Tip to center of first cut (Bow side): .883"

Cut to Cut: .090"

Depths: 1-.323", 2-.299", 3-.276", 4-.252"

Framon: Use Ford 5 PIN Spacing Clip. Set starting cut at.017" (First cut From Bow)

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A Car By Any Other NameDespite different manufacturers and names, many vehicles are identical

and share similar key systems and service procedures.By Tom Mazzone

FEATURE ARTICLE

espite separate manufac-turers and having different

names, many vehicles areactually identical models withcosmetic dif ferences. TheMercury Sable and Ford Taurus,for example, are identicalvehicles using the same openingprocedures and lock parts.

This method of operation ismore predominant with GM thanany other manufacturer, oftenproducing similar vehicles thatcross into two or more of their

motor divisions. To makeservicing similar vehicles easyfor their technicians, GM hasclassified service manuals andbulletins by the vehicle's bodystyle.

For example, the late modelBuick Skylark, OldsmobileAchieva and Pontiac Grand AMare considered "N" bodyvehicles. They share similarframe and suspension packages,as well as many body parts. Forthe locksmith, these vehicles use

similar opening procedures, lockparts and keying systems, andkey generation methods. Inother words, if you have theinformation for one vehicle, youhave it for the other vehicles thatshare the same body code.

For your convenience,following is a listing of all theGM body codes. Make your lifeand job easier by crossreferencing the vehicles you areservicing. Good Luck.

Passenger Vehicles

Buick Century 1982-95 AChevrolet Celebrity 1982-90 AOldsmobile Cutlass Ciera/Wagon 1982-95 APontiac 6000 1982-91 AChevrolet Monte Carlo 1978-88 A, GBuick Roadmaster Sedan 1992-95 BBuick Roadmaster Wagon 1991-95* BChevrolet Caprice (Impala SS) 1991-95 BChevrolet Caprice (Impala SS) 1980-90 BChevrolet Impala 1980-85 BOldsmobile Custom Cruiser (RWD) 1991-92 BOldsmobile Custom Cruiser (RWD) 1980-90 BPontiac Parisienne 1983-86 BPontiac Safari 1987-89 BBuick Electra/LaSabre/

Estate Wagon (RWD) 1980-90 B, C, DOldsmobile 88/98 (RWD) 1980-90 B, C, DBuick Electra (FWD) 1985-90 CBuick Park Avenue/Ultra 1991-95 CBuick Park Avenue (FWD) 1985-90 C

Passenger Vehicles

Cadillac DeVille (FWD) 1989-93 CCadillac DeVille (FWD) 1985-88 CCadillac Fleetwood (FWD) 1989-93 CCadillac Fleetwood (FWD) 1985-88 CCadillac Fleetwood Brougham

(RWD) 1989-93 CCadillac Fleetwood Brougham

(RWD) 1985-88 COldsmobile 98 Regency (FWD) 1991-95 COldsmobile 98 Regency (FWD) 1985-90 CCadillac DeVille (RWD) 1980-84 C, DBuick Reatta 1988-91 EBuick Riviera 1986-93 ECadillac Eldorado 1992-95 ECadillac Eldorado 1986-91 EOldsmobile Toronado 1990-92 EOldsmobile Toronado 1986-89 EChevrolet Camaro 1993-95 FChevrolet Camaro 1982-92 FPontiac Firebird 1993-95 FPontiac Firebird 1982-92 F

D


Passenger Vehicles

Pontiac TransAm 1993-95 FPontiac TransAm 1982-92 FBuick Riviera 1995 GOldsmobile Cutlass Calais (RWD) 1982-88 GOldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

(RWD) 1982-88 GOldsmobile Aurora 1995 GBuick LeSabre (FWD) 1992-95 HBuick LeSabre (FWD) 1986-91 HOldsmobile Eighty Eight Royale/

LS/LSS 1992-95 HOldsmobile Delta 88 Royale (FWD) 1986-91 HPontiac Bonneville (FWD) 1992-95 HPontiac Bonneville (FWD) 1987-91 HBuick Skyhawk 1988-89 JCadillac Cimarron 1982-88 JChevrolet Cavalier 1995* JChevrolet Cavalier 1988-94 JOldsmobile Firenza 1988 JPontiac Sunbird 1988-94 JPontiac Sunfire 1995* JPontiac Tempest† (Canada) 1987-94 JGeo Tracker 1989-95* J1, 2Cadillac Seville 1992-95 KCadillac Seville 1986-91 KCadillac DeVille/Concours 1994-95 KChevrolet Beretta 1987-95 LChevrolet Corsica/Tempest† 1987-95 LChevrolet Sprint/Firefly,

† Canada-Only 1985-88 MGeo Metro 1995* MGeo Metro/Sprint 1989-94 MPontiac Firefly (Canada) 1985-88 MBuick Skylark 1992-95 NBuick Skylark 1986-91 NBuick Somerset 1985-89 NOldsmobile Cutlass Calais (FWD) 1985-91 NOldsmobile Achieva 1992-95 NPontiac Grand Am (FWD) 1992-95 NPontiac Grand Am (FWD) 1985-91 NPontiac Fiero 1984-88 PChevrolet Spectrum/Sunburst 1985-89 RGeo Spectrum/Sunburst 1985-89 RGeo Storm 1990-93 RChevrolet Nova 1985-88 SGeo Prizm 1993-95* SGeo Prizm 1989-92 SOldsmobile Bravada 1991-94 S, TPontiac LeMans (FWD) 1988-93 TPontiac Optima (Canada) 1988-93 TChevrolet Lumina APV 1990-95* UOldsmobile Silhouette 1990-95* U

Passenger Vehicles

Pontiac Trans Sport 1990-95* UCadillac Allante 1987-93 VBuick Regal Coupe (FWD) 1988-95* WBuick Regal Sedan (FWD) 1991-95* WChevrolet Lumina/Monte Carlo 1995 WChevrolet Lumina Coupe/Sedan 1990-94 WOldsmobile CutlassSupreme Coupe (FWD)

(Includes Convertible) 1988-95* WOldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Sedan

(FWD) 1990-95* WPontiac Grand Prix Coupe

(FWD) 1988-95* WPontiac Grand Prix Sedan

(FWD) 1990-95* WChevrolet Corvette 1984-95 Y

Trucks & Vans

Blazer/Jimmy/Bravada/YukonFull Size Chev/GMC 1987-91 R, V

Blazer/Jimmy/Bravada/YukonFull Size Chev/GMC 1978-86 C, K

Blazer/Jimmy/Bravada/YukonBlazer/Yukon 1992-95* C, K

Blazer/Jimmy/Bravada/YukonBlazer/Jimmy 1995 S, T

Blazer/Jimmy/Bravada/YukonS10/S15/Bravada

(Includes Typhoon) 1983-94 S, TTruck-Pickup Full Size Chev/GMC 1978-86 C, KTruck-Pickup Full Size Chev/GMC

(VIN Code C, K) 1988-91 C, KTruck-Pickup Full Size Chev/GM 1992-95* C, KTruck-Pickup Full Size Chev/GMC 1987 R, VTruck-Pickup Full Size Chev/GMC

(VIN Code R, V) 1988-91 R, VTruck-Pickup Suburban 1992-95* C, KTruck-Pickup Suburban 1987-91 R, VTruck-Pickup Suburban 1978-86 C, KTruck-Pickup S10/Sonoma Pickup 1994-95 S, TTruck-Pickup S10/S15/Sonoma

(Includes Cyclone) 1982-93 S, TVans Full Size Chev/GMC 1978-95 GVans Astro/Safari 1985-95* MVans APV Lumina/Silhoutte/Trans Sport

1990-95* U

(FWD) – Front Wheel Drive(RWD) – Rear Wheel Drive† See Chevrolet Corsica Information* Indicates New or Updated Information

Documents

Top To Bottom Camry - LOCKSMITH MARTtnlstore.weebly.com/uploads/4/3/7/3/43731111/nlaa_-001.pdfIf reading this lock by sight, it is best to give yourself a point of index or registration