TOGETHERWE EASY ENERGY TIPS 20...EASY ENERGY TIPS 1 Doing proper maintenance on your home’s air conditioner will ensure that your system is operating as efficiently as possible

20Simple Ways to Save Energy

and Money at Home!

TOGETHERWESAVE EASY ENERGY TIPS

© 2015 East Kentucky Power Cooperative

www.togetherwesaveky.com

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Each year, electric co-ops conduct thousands of home energy evaluations where we often find the same issues wasting our members’ energy and money. Enclosed are 20 simple ways you can reduce your monthly electric bill and save, month after month, year after year, no matter what the weather is outside.

1. AC Maintenance ............................... 12. Attic Hatch ........................................ 33. Attic Decking .................................... 44. Attic Insulation ................................. 55. Attic Pull-Down Stairs ..................... 76. Basements ......................................... 97. Ceiling Leaks .................................. 118. Attic Ventilation ............................. 129. Crawl Space .................................... 1310. Heat Pump Guide ........................... 1511. Knee Walls ..................................... 1712. Knee Wall Doors ............................ 1913. Pool Pumps ..................................... 2014. Whole House Fan ........................... 2115. Weather-strip Doors ....................... 2316. Water Heaters ................................. 2517. Heat Pump Thermostats ................. 2718. Space Heaters ................................. 2819. Sealing Ductwork ........................... 2920. Residential Lighting ....................... 31

20 Simple Ways to Save Energy – and Money – at Home

Contents

AC MaintenanceTOGETHERWESAVE EASY ENERGY TIPS

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Doing proper maintenance on your home’s air conditioner will ensure that your system is operating as efficiently as possible. It helps to improve your home’s air quality, and it can save a lot of grief. A well maintained system has a much longer operating life. Proper maintenance will also lower your energy consumption during the warm months of the year.

You likely will want to hire a licensed HVAC technician to perform the following key jobs each year.

Central air unitsCheck the refrigerant level. The common refrigerant brand name is Freon. If your system is running low, it will not provide maximum cooling. There is also a test that your technician can do to confirm whether Freon is leaking out of your system.

Inspect both the indoor and outdoor coils. The coils look similar to the metal fins on your car radiator. If the coils are dirty, a cleaning job involves turning off the power at the disconnect or breaker, gently spraying on a coil cleaner (soapy water is usually adequate) and then using a hose to spray off the cleaner with a gentle stream of water. Never use a pressure washer or intense rinse as this will bend the fins of the coil, damaging your unit. If the technician does the job right, your unit will be free of the dirt and dust that cause it to work extra hard.

Check supply and return air temperatures. There should be at least 18 degrees of difference from the air coming out of your registers and the air going into your HVAC system returns. Without that difference, your AC unit will run extra long and that will increase your bill. You can check the air temperature by holding a thermometer inside a register supplying cool, conditioned air, and then holding the thermometer inside a return register.

Inspect your ducts for leaks. Most ducts leak 30 percent of a home’s heating and cooling. To fix that, simply apply a substancecalled mastic with a paintbrush to every duct seam or apply foil tape to the seams. Do not use what is commonly referred to as “duct tape” because this material will quickly dry out and will not stick to ductwork.




Other key steps. Always change your filters, vacuum your registers and vents, and keep all vegetation trimmed away from your outside unit.

Window unitsClean the filter. Unplug the unit and remove it from its case. Remove the filter from the grill. Clean the filter with a vacuum or warm soapy water. Do this every-other-week during hot weather.

Clean the coils. Clean the dirt and grime off the coils using a spray cleaner. Avoid getting any water on electrical

components, and only use a gentle spray when rinsing off the cleaner.

Make sure the unit drains properly. When you return the unit to the window, make sure it’s slightly tilted downward on the outside so the condensation can drain.

ConclusionA homeowner who takes the time and care to do annual maintenance will have a system that functions better, lasts longer and uses less energy.


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Attic Hatch




Hatch lid pushes up and out of the way for access

Rigid insulation plus batt equalingR-38 (recommended)

Air sealgasket

Trim

Insulation dams prevent loose-fill insulation from falling through access

Attic scuttle

A home’s attic access is often an area where poor insulation and improper sealing causes air leaks that can increase the monthly electric bill.

One common type of access is the scuttle hole or attic hatch, which is simply a removable portion of the ceiling that allows access to the attic. Many times this is located in a closet or main hallway. If the attic hatch is not sealed properly, the result is that during the cold months the heat from the living space escapes into the attic. During hot months, the blistering heat from the attic infiltrates into your home.

This causes the heating and cooling system to work extra hard, and reduces overall comfort in the home.

The good news is that this can be eliminated with a little effort.

First, make sure that the piece of ceiling dry-wall or wood that is used for the hatch is level and flat to ensure a tight fit.

Install weather stripping on the sides of the hatch on the inside of the trim where the hatch rests. Attach 2 or more inches of rigid foam board to the attic side of the hatch, using glue and screws. Make sure the foam board has one-fourth inch clearance on the sides so it is easier to push the hatch out of the way for access.

Finally, glue the paper side of a piece of fiber-glass batt insulation to the top of the last layer of rigid insulation. Try to achieve the same total R-value as the rest of the ceiling (R-38), keeping in mind that rigid foam has an insulation value of R-5 per inch.

These steps will eliminate the air infiltration and plug a major hole in the ceiling.

Attic Hatch

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2x6

2x4

Attic DeckingMany homeowners decide to add decking in their attic as a way to get additional storage space or because they need a platform on which to install a new HVAC unit.

Unfortunately, many people install their decking directly on top of the ceiling joists, which limits the amount of space available for insulation. This lowers the R-value of the attic and makes the home much less energy efficient.

Another typical problem is that in order to move around the attic, homeowners place boards directly on top of attic insulation. If the boards sit atop the ceiling joists, it compresses insulation and decreases the effectiveness of insulation.

To ensure proper insulation, the attic decking should be raised above the ceiling joists. This can be accomplished by “edge-nailing” 2-x-4 boards, or 2-x-6 boards, to the top of the ceiling joists where the decking is to be located. Install the decking securely to the top of the raised lumber after the insulation has been installed.

Doing this will enable placement of R-30 insulation between the boards. These steps will enable storage of items in the attic, while maintaining the integrity of the ceiling insulation.




Attic Insulation




Proper attic insulation is critical to your home’s energy efficiency. A well-insulated attic keeps warm air out during summers and inside during winters.

Fortunately, attics are one of the easiest places in the house to insulate.

There are two types of attic insulation: loose-fill and batt. Costs vary, but loose-fill insulation generally is less expensive to install than batt, and when installed properly, loose-fill insulation also tends to provide better coverage.

If loose-fill insulation is chosen, make sure it is distributed evenly as any gaps will decrease its effectiveness. The goal in Kentucky is to achieve an R-38. This can be reached with loose-fill insulation by applying 12 inches of blown cellulose or 17 inches of blown fiberglass.

If batts are installed, use a utility knife to cut pieces to size and lay them between the joists. If installing R-19 batts, place a second unfaced layer of R-19 batts on top of the first layer at right angles to achieve coverage of the ceiling joists. This will bring the insulation level to R-38.

Prepare Your Attic Beforehand

Before installing any type of attic insulation, do the following:

● Seal any attic air leaks. Check the spaces around duct exhaust fans, chimneys, interior

walls and openings such as dropped ceilings, soffits and bulkheads.

● To prevent fires, install metal flashing around heat-producing equipment such as flues, chimneys, exhaust fans and light fixtures. If your lighting fixtures are IC -- or “insulation-contact” -- rated, they can be covered with insulation.

● To allow for proper ventilation, never cover attic vents, and leave at least 1 inch of airflow between the insulation and the roof. If your home has no attic vents, be sure to add several before installing the insulation.

Federal housing officials recommend one square foot of attic ventilation (both intake and exhaust) for every 300 square feet of attic space. For example, if your attic is 900 square feet, you need a total of 3 square feet of ventilation. This amount is usually evenly divided between intake and exhaust.

Nearly all homeowners can realize great gains in energy efficiency by having a properly insulated attic.

(see illustration on next page)

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Tight fireplace damper & glass doors

Concrete slab floor insulation:R-6 (perimeter)option 1

Double panewindows

(Low E rating with 0.35 U-value

or less)

Wallinsula-tion:R-15

House

Attic High & Low

ventilation DoorsR-5

Ceiling insulationR-38

(Cathedral ceiling insulation)

R-26

Floor insulationover unheated areas:R-19 Duct-work

insulation:Unconditioned space:R-6

Conditioned space:R-4

Conditioned Spacebasement wall:R-11

Crawl space vapor barriers

Concrete slab floor insulation:R-6 (perimeter)option 2

Conditioned Spacebasement wall:R-11

Slab vapor barrier

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Attic Pull-Down Stairs




Weatherstripping

PanelInsulation boardminimum R-3 required

Seal gap between frame and rough opening with caulk, backer rod, or foam

Insulation dams prevent loose-fill insulation from falling through access

One common type of access to the attic that can cause higher monthly bills is the pull-down attic stairs.

If pull-down stairs are not sealed properly,extremely hot or cold air from the attic can infiltrate into the home. In a typical 1,000-square-foot home, a poorly sealed pull-down attic stairway could reduce the effectiveness of the attic insulation by as much as 30 percent.

The good news is that this problem can be eliminated with little effort.

The frame for the pull-down stairs fits into a rough opening and rests upon a flat panel that is on the living-space side.

If there is a gap on the end where the hinges are located, the gap must be sealed. If the gap is less than one-half inch, you can apply caulk to seal. If a larger opening exists, non-expanding foam or a backing material (backer rod) is recommended in conjunction with caulk.

Be careful if using expanding foam to seal this gap. Because the material can easily expand (often more than people think), make sure it does not interfere with the ability of the stairs to open or close.

To ensure a tight fit, add weather-stripping where the flat panel fits against the ceiling. Adding alatch bolt on the living space side ensures a tighter seal.

Finally, it’s extremely important to add a light-weight attic stair cover box made from rigid insulation above the top of the stairs. The box rests above the stairs on the attic side. The box is simply pushed aside to gain attic access. For details on constructing this box, see the illustration on back.

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Basements




Seal the Band JoistOne of the most effective steps you can take is to seal the band joist in your basement. The band joist is the wooden beam just above your home’s foundation. It sits atop the entire perimeter of the poured concrete or concrete-block foundation. It’s the major beam that all the first floor joists are connected with.

Cut 1- or 2-inch-thick foam board pieces to a rectangular size and insert between the floor joists, just above the foundation. Make sure the pieces fit snug against the joists on the left and right, and from the top of the foundation to the flooring. The edges are then sealed on all four sides with a bead of caulk or expanding foam.

Insulate the Basement’s WallsInsulating your basement’s walls can be more efficient than insulating its ceiling. An example of efficient heat retention is the common Styrofoam cup, which, while only 1/16 of an inch thick, protects skin against liquids in excess of 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

Insulating the walls will make even unconditioned basements significantly warmer in winter. This also places the ductwork in the thermal envelope of the home, again increasing efficiency.

There are several options to insulate these walls. One way is to build stud frames around the wall and add batt insulation. This is then covered with drywall.

Many homes lose a great deal of energy efficiency through the basement. In fact, it’s common to lose up to 30 percent of a home’s heat in the basement. That loss causes the home’s heating and cooling equipment to work much harder. It also can contribute significantly to higher utility bills. Here are three key suggestions for improving the basement’s energy efficiency.

Stud wall with battinsulation

Drywall

1x2 furring strips with 2 layers of foaminsulation

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Another option is to glue sheets of foam board (Thermax) directly to the walls without adding studs.

A third option is to have Icynene foam sprayed on the basement walls, which effectively seals all gaps and crevices in one step.

Seal the Ductwork

When ductwork leakage is reduced substantially, it makes an immediate improvement in air circulation throughout the house. If the ductwork is accessible, sealing it is a relatively simple procedure.

This is accomplished by applying a substance called mastic with a brush to every duct seam, with special attention paid to the return side of the system.

Mastic is a gray paste-like substance containing fiber, which is easily spread across the seams of the ductwork. It dries to a solid, cement-

like quality, providing a permanent solution to unwanted leakage on both the return and supply side of the ductwork.

Mastic can be purchased at companies that sell wholesale supplies to heating, ventilation and air conditioning contractors.

Once the leaks are fixed with mastic, more savings can be realized by insulating the ducts located in unheated areas with foil-faced fiberglass duct insulation or foil-faced “bubble wrap.” The insulation is simply wrapped around the duct and tied or taped into place.

If the ducts are inaccessible, a contractor may need to be hired to conduct a pressure test with a special fan. This “blower door” test can determine if there is serious leakage. Some duct connections may simply have come apart.

In most cases, a little time spent addressing this issue can make a major difference in the efficiency and longevity of the heating and air conditioning system.

Each home is unique, but most homeowners can realize great gains in energy efficiency by sealing the band joist, insulating the basement walls and sealing the holes in the ductwork.

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Ceiling Leaks




Homeowners often think the surest way to control energy loss in their house is to install insulation in the attic. However, if air leaks in the ceilings aren’t sealed first, the money spent on insulation may be wasted because insulation doesn’t usually block air flow. Here are tips for fixing some common problems.

Recessed lights: Recessed lights, when installed in rooms below an unheated attic, can allow big air leaks. Unless recessed lights are clearly labeled as safe for installation beneath insulation, (I.C., or “Insulated Cover”) such lights must be surrounded by an air space at least 3 inches wide. Ideally, lights designated as I.C.A.T. or “Insulated Cover, Air Tight” will provide the least heat loss through the ceiling.

Bathroom fans: Caulk around these from below with high-temperature caulk.

Chimneys: A chimney that runs from the basement through the attic should be sealed at both the basement ceiling and attic floor by use of sheet metal and fire-rated caulk. Never use combustible materials within 2 inches of chimneys. Sewer vent pipes: A sewer vent pipe typically runs vertically from the basement through the attic and should be sealed at both the basement ceiling and attic floor with wood, sheet metal and expanding foam.

Other leaks: Seal holes around pipes or wiring that go through the ceilings with caulk or expanding foam.

Pull-down doors: Make attic access doors and stairs airtight by using latch bolts and weather-stripping. Add an insulated cover to the back of the pull-down door.

A word about a condition called “stack effect.” Anytime there is conditioned air exiting through the ceiling, that air is being pulled in from somewhere, and with many homes that means either a crawl space or unconditioned basement. To avoid air loss through the attic, be mindful of holes down below that allow this condition to exist.

By repairing these common ceiling air leaks, up to one-third of a home’s overall energy loss can be prevented.

Seal airtight IC-rated recessed light fixtures to drywall

Seal lights andbath vent fansto ceiling drywall

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Attic Ventilation




Most building codes require roof vents because the increased airflow expels moisture that can degrade insulation. In hot weather, proper ventilation reduces roof temperatures, which saves on cooling costs and lengthens the life of your roof.

A continuous ridge vent along the peak of your roof, combined with soffit vents at the eave, will provide the most effective ventilation.

The vented area should be divided equally between the ridge and soffits.

If your home has insufficient ridge venting, cap vents, turbines and gable vents can supplement your roof design.

Power roof ventilators are not recommended because of the energy consumption, and the units also create negative pressure that may pull conditioned room air into your attic. A common problem occurs at the eave. Many

roof designs leave insufficient space for full insulation without blocking airflow from the soffit vents. Compressed insulation is much less effective.

In stick-built roofs, where rafters and ceiling joists are cut and installed on the construction site, an additional top plate that lays across the top of the ceiling joists at the eave will prevent compression of the attic insulation and also allow for ventilation.

Federal housing officials recommend one square foot of attic ventilation (both intake and exhaust) for every 300 square feet of attic space. For example, if your attic is 900 square feet, you need a total of 3 square feet of ventilation. This amount is usually evenly divided between intake and exhaust. Your energy advisor can help you to assess whether you have adequate ventilation and offer tips on how to correct typical attic ventilation problems.

Soffitvent

Ridge vent

Rafter baffle

Soffit vent

Additional or raised top plate

Sheathing

Band joist

Battinsulation

A raised top plate increases the area for insulation and ventilation at the eaves.

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Crawl Space




Many homes lose a great deal of energy efficiency in the crawl space. Insulating your home’s crawl space can be a wise investment. The best way to do the job varies, depending on whether the crawl space is ventilated or unventilated. Insulating a Ventilated Crawl SpaceSeal holes in the floor above with expanding foam or caulk, especially the openings where plumbing and ductwork enter the conditioned part of the house.

Insulate between the floor joists with R-19 batt insulation, making sure the air barrier is touching the underside of the floor, and that the insulation extends snugly against the band joist. In regard to paper-faced batts, the pink side should face toward the ground.

Make sure to install a sheet of 10 mil plastic over the dirt floor as a vapor barrier with 6 inches turned up onto the walls and sealed with adhesive. The plastic on the inside walls needs to be above outside ground level. All seams should be taped. A typical dirt crawl space releases 12 gallons of moisture per day. Damp air is more difficult

to heat and cool and puts an extra load on the HVAC system.

Insulating an Unventilated Crawl SpaceThe best approach is to insulate the foundation walls rather than the subfloor. That keeps the ducts within the house’s conditioned area and reduces the strain on the heating and cooling system. Again, make sure to seal around pipes, ducts and openings into the living area. Also, seal around openings that come through the exterior walls.

For safety, make sure that combustion furnaces and water heaters located in the crawl space are sealed-combustion units.

Install a termite shield between the band joist and the masonry foundation. This is a strip of metal, bent down at the edges and placed between the foundation of a house and a timber floor, around pipes, and other places where termites can pass.

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Another key step is to seal the band joist. The band joist is the wooden beam just above the home’s foundation. It sits atop the entire perimeter of the foundation. It’s a major beam that all the first floor joists are connected to.

To do the job, cut 1- or 2-inch thick foam board pieces to insert between the floor joists, just above the foundation. Then seal the edges of the foam board pieces on all four sides with a bead of caulk or expanding foam.

Access doors to a crawl space should be insulated and made as air-tight as possible.

Install rigid foam board along all the walls, leaving a 3-inch gap at the top of the foam board to allow monitoring of any termite activity.

Each home is unique, but most homeowners can realize great gains in energy efficiency by sealing the crawl space beneath their house.

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Heat Pump Guide




Sometimes, you have to spend money, to save in the long run. If you’re looking for comfort, efficiency and savings from your heating and cooling system, you can’t beat today’s high efficiency heat pumps.

A heat pump offers superior performance – and savings – compared with both a gas furnace and an electric furnace. Natural gas prices have skyrocketed in recent years.

And compared with an electric furnace, heat pumps offer far greater advantages. Because a heat pump operates much more efficiently, a homeowner can cut the cost of operating their furnace in half by upgrading from an electric furnace to a heat pump.

For a manufactured home, the slightly higher up front cost for a heat pump compared with an electric furnace can provide substantial savings year after year.

Here’s why a heat pump is one of the most trouble-free, low-cost systems available today.

How it worksA heat pump provides both heating and cooling. It’s called a heat pump because it pumps heat out of your house in the summer, and pumps heat into your house during the winter.

Because air does not lose all heat content even when temperatures fall, a heat pump can extract warmth from the outside air during the winter and transfer it into your home.

In summer, the process goes in reverse. The heat pump pulls hot air from inside your home, and moves it outside.

Trouble shootingThe few problems that homeowners have with heat pumps can usually be traced to existing problems, including leaking ductwork, dirty furnace filters and dirty coils. These problems are often easy to find and fix.

All duct joints that have separated or leaking seams should be repaired. A substance called mastic should be applied with a paintbrush to every seam on metal ducts or apply foil tape to seams to make sure that conditioned air is not leaking. Do not use what is commonly referred to as “duct tape” because this material will quickly dry out and will not stick to ductwork.

Dirty coils also can seriously reduce operating efficiency. The coils look similar to the metal fins on your car radiator. Cleaning the coils usually involves hiring a licensed service technician to turn off the power at the disconnect or breaker, spraying on a coil cleaner (soapy water is usually adequate) and then using a hose to spray off the cleaner with a gentle stream of water. Never use a pressure washer or intense rinse as this will bend the fins of the coil, damaging your unit. If the HVAC technician does the job right, your unit will be free of the dirt and dust that cause it to work extra hard.

Regularly changing the filter is important. Dirt

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or dust can easily accumulate on a coil and reduce the effectiveness of a heat pump.

System controlsImproper use of a thermostat can lead to high bills when operating a heat pump. It’s usually best to leave the thermostat alone, rather than continually adjusting it. That can cause the supplemental heaters in the system to cycle on and can significantly increase operating costs. If a homeowner wants to setback heating or cooling, programmable thermostats specially designed for use with heat pumps are recommended.

The emergency heat option should only be used in rare cases such as when the compressor isn’t working properly. Using the emergency heat is expensive. Some systems have a light on the thermostat that indicates when the emergency heat is operating to help avoid accidentally leaving it on.

ConclusionA high efficiency heat pump is a great investment. You’ll enjoy great savings and many years of efficient comfort in your home.

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Knee Walls




SealAtticlivingspace

Seal

Hardboard

Unwanted air leakage

Attic Ventilation

Knee wall

Sealoutletbox todrywall

Seal all edges of rigid foam insulation

Attic space

Desired ventilation

A knee wall is a wall that is often located upstairs in a home and has conditioned living space on one side and attic space behind it. It is usually 3 to 5 feet high with the top ending along the roof line.

However, a knee wall is most accurately described as any wall inside living space that backs up to an attic. In larger homes, it is not uncommon to find knee walls that are 10 to 20 feet high in a den or family room.

If not insulated or built properly, however, a knee wall can become a major break in your home’s thermal envelope and can cause high monthly bills. Without a proper seal, the extremely hot and cold air of the attic can leak into your living space, resulting in higher electricity usage to heat or cool your home.

Unfortunately, builders often insulate a knee wall with no rigid board covering the wall insulation on the inside of the attic space. Another issue is that the flooring may have an ineffective barrier to the hot and cold attic air.

A very effective step homeowners can take is to nail rigid foam board, drywall or foil-faced hardboard to the studs. Nail this material on top of the insulation inside the attic space and cover the R-13 insulation completely. Tape each seam and place a bead of caulk or expanding foam along the top and bottom plates.

Also, if you can access the attic floor between the joists, make the area below the bottom plate air-tight so that cold or hot attic air does not leak under the floor of the living space. Foam board pieces should be cut and fit into each cavity between joists and then sealed with caulk or expanding foam.

The key concept is to keep the home’s thermal envelope intact. Heat always seeks cold in nature. That’s why it is important to have a good thermal barrier that keeps extremely hot or cold air out of living space.

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Blocking - fit in joist cavity, caulked or foamed17

Sealed attic-side air barrier (required)— OSB, insulated sheathing, etc.

Install blocking and rafter baffle to prevent wind-washing if vented, insulated roofline (recommended)

5

Attic knee-walls

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Caulk and seal rough opening

Weather-strip door opening and threshold

Air sealing key points continued

Rigid insulation (recommended) Minimum R-3 required

Appendix2006 IECC

Disclaimer: This document is intended solely to help graphically demonstrate the air leakage provisions of section 402.4 of the 2006 IECC. It does not cover all airsealing locations or techniques. Other code provisions may be applicable as well.

Two-level attic

Conditionedspace

UnconditionedSpace

Conditionedspace

Caulk

Caulk

BlockingGlue

Air barrier required, rigid board(recommended)

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R-18 insulation (required)R-13 + R-5, R-15 + R-3,or R-19 in 2x6

Attic kneewall requires R-18 insulation

Knee Wall Doors




A knee wall is a wall that is often located upstairs in a home and has conditioned living space on one side and attic space behind it.

However, a knee wall is most accurately described as any wall inside living space that backs up to an attic. In larger homes, it is not uncommon to find knee walls that are 10 to 20 feet high in a den or family room.

Without a proper seal, the extremely hot and cold air of the attic can leak into the living space, resulting in higher electricity usage to heat or cool the home.

A major problem with many knee walls is improper sealing of doors that provide access to the attic.

A good first step to solve the problem is to add weather-stripping to the inside of each attic access door just as one would for any exterior door. In addition, make sure the knee wall has a latch that pulls tightly against the frame.

Next, add a threshold to ensure that unconditioned attic air is not infiltrating beneath the access door.

Finally, stop the conduction of unconditioned air directly through the door. Do so by attaching rigid insulation or foam board to the attic side of the door, using construction adhesive and screws to attach these items.

Add weather-stripping Threshold

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Pool Pumps




You wouldn’t leave home with every light in your house burning. But running your swimming pool’s pump harder than it needs to run is a lotlike leaving all the lights on. It burns extra energy and costs you money. A typical pool pump can consume the same amount of energy as 25 60-watt light bulbs.

It’s important, then, to make sure your pool pump is operating as efficiently as possible. The U. S. Department of Energy cites a study which found that making just two adjustments —reducing the amount of time pumps run and installing smaller-sized pumps—saved Florida homeowners up to 75 percent of their original pumping bills.

Here are some suggestions for decreasing your energy costs:

Cut the pump’s operating time. If the water is circulating as the pool’s chemicals are added, they should remain mixed, and most debris can be removed with a skimmer or a vacuum. So reduce your pump’s running time to 3 to 6 hours a day, and don’t use those hours all at once. Instead, install a timer that will automatically divide those hours into shorter cycles.

Install a high-efficiency motor. Modern high-efficiency motors consume 20 percent less electricity than standard motors.

Buy a smaller pump. The larger the pump, the greater the electrical and maintenance costs. Buy the smallest size pump appropriate. The Florida study showed that a .75 horsepower or smaller pump usually is sufficient for residential pools. Consult a pool supplier’s design chart to find the smallest pump that will suffice.

If you prefer a large pump to improve vacuum capability, choose a two-speed pump. Most two-speed pumps use 75 watts on low and 1,500 watts on high.

Decrease the water circulation system’s hydraulic resistance. Use wider pipes or decrease the length of pipes, and replace 90-degree elbow pipes with 45-degree ones or flexible pipes. Also consider installing a larger filter.

Clean drains and filters regularly. Keep drains clear of debris. Clogs make the pump work harder, which wastes energy. Backwash the filter appropriately. Too much backwashing wastes water, but not backwashing enough requires more effort from the pump.

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Whole House Fan



A whole house fan is a simple and inexpensive method of cooling a house. From a heating and cooling standpoint, it has advantages and dis-advantages. Unless the area above it is sealed properly, it can be an area with significant energy loss.

The advantage of a whole house fan is that it draws cool outdoor air inside through open windows and exhausts hot room air through the attic to the outside. The result is lower indoor temperatures and improved evaporative cooling.

The disadvantage is that it can only cool the inside of a house to the outside temperature. Unlike an air conditioner, it does not dehu-midify, and dust and pollen can be brought into the house.

During the winter months (and summer when air conditioning is used), a whole house fan represents a potential energy loss because it is essentially a large, uninsulated hole in the ceiling. Standard fan louvers do not insulate or seal tightly.

To stop the leak, a cover should be built to airseal and insulate this hole during the seasons when the fan is not in operation. The cover may be installed from the attic side, if attic access is easily available, or from the house side. Both covers could be included in exces-sively hot or cold climates. Homeowners must remember to remove covers before operating the fan and to replace covers during seasons when the fan is not in use.

A typical whole house fan has a 30-inch diameter blade with an additional inch needed for blade clearance. The box can be built from 4-x-4 pieces of one-inch thick rigid fiberglass duct board. The box will typically be a 33-inch square with 1-inch thick walls and be 6 and one-half inches deep. Measure carefully to make sure the box will fit.

Building the box is not difficult, and it can help tremendously with the energy efficiency of a home by sealing the hole in the ceiling.




Weather-strip Doors




If homeowners were aware of a hole larger than a softball in their front door, they would certainly plug it up. Yet there are thousands of homes in which a 1/8-inch-wide crack exists all the way around a door, and that’s the equivalent air loss of a 6-inch-square hole.

Weather-stripping doors can dramatically increase a home’s energy efficiency while stopping those cold drafts that leave one feeling chilled.

A simple rule of thumb is if daylight can be observed on a closed outside door, there is leakage that needs to be addressed.

Poorly set hinges cause most door problems. First, tighten all hinge screws. If air is still felt coming in, add weather-stripping.

There are many types of stripping materials, each with its own level of effectiveness, durability and degree of installation difficulty.

The following types are installed on the top and sides of a door, but not on the door-bottom.

Pressure-sensitive, adhesive-backed foam is cheap and the easiest to apply. Available in both rubber and plastic, it seals out the air and also silences slamming. Other kinds of weather-stripping include rolled vinyl with aluminum channel backing, felt, foam rubber with wood backing, spring metal and interlocking metal channels.

The wood or metal hump on the floor along the bottom of the door is called the threshold.

Wooden thresholds can wear down and could need to be replaced.

There are many types of replacement thresholds from which to choose. Many are aluminum and come in standard door widths.

Once the threshold is repaired, install a door sweep to seal the gap between it and the door. Most sweeps are attached to the inside of doors with nails or screws.

In short, weather-stripping doors and replacing worn thresholds can help keep one comfortable in bad weather. These are inexpensive improvements than can be done without having to call a professional.

Common types of

weather-stripping

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Water Heaters




Heating water for your home can be expensive, accounting for up to 25 percent of your house-hold’s total energy costs. That is second only to the heating and cooling system. We want to help you trim these costs.

If you are installing a new water heater, we recommend an electric water heater, which can be more efficient than natural gas or propane. Look for an efficiency rating no lower than .90; the best available units range from .92 to .95.

The traditional water-heating system used in most homes is a storage tank heater. Usually a 50-gallon capacity is sufficient. Your co-op recommends a traditional water heater over the tankless, instant systems, which are costly to purchase and install. You can save on heating water by taking several easy steps:

● Reduce energy losses from your tank and pipes. Turn the water heater’s thermostat down to 120 degrees Fahrenheit, and insulate the tank with a water-heater blanket and the pipes with insulation. Adding insulation to the tank reduces heat losses by up to 45 percent, which can cut overall water-heating costs up to 10 percent. Pre-cut blankets are available at home-improvement stores for as little as $20. Choose one with an insulating value of at least R-8. Insulate all accessible hot-water pipes, especially within 3 feet of the water heater, using pipe sleeves made with polyethylene or neoprene foam.

● Reduce use or waste of hot water. Install low-flow shower heads and faucet aerators to cut hot water consumption by as much as 25 percent. Use cold water for washing clothes whenever possible. Do not turn on the hot water at the sink unless you really need it. When you leave home for a vacation or an extended period, turn off the breaker to the water heater.

New heat-pump hot-water systems can lower water heating costs significantly. If you have a geothermal system, make sure you are using the water-heating capability of the system.

Finally, here’s information about instant water heaters, which have no tank and heat water on demand. These units generally cost twice as much as traditional water heaters, and you will have to upgrade wiring or upgrade the

Approximate Savings: Hot-Water Retrofi ts

Retrofi t Electricity

(kWh)

Reduce tanktemperature 100-200

Exterior insulationblanket 150-450

Water-savingshower head 200-400

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electric service to your home to use them. In order to heat water instantly, the units cause a sharp spike in your home’s electric demand. The positive news is that you aren’t heating water round-the-clock. The units may be worth considering for vacation homes or buildings with limited use.

For further water-heating savings, make sure tolook for the Energy Star label when you purchase a new washing machine or dishwasher.

Insulate the fi rst four feet of metal pipes

Above are diagrams showing the installation of insulating jackets for electric and gas water heaters.

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Heat Pump Thermostats




Among the most effective ways to save money on home energy costs is also one of the simplest: try to leave the thermostat alone.

Many homeowners don’t understandhow their heating and air conditioning systems really work. Consequently, they waste electricity by pushing the thermostat up or down every time they feel a bit cold or slightly stuffy. This is counter-productive. It wastes energy and drives up your costs.

Here are some ways to use your heating/air conditioning system more effectively.

Set the thermostat at a moderate temperature at the beginning of each season and leave it there. EPA’s recommendation is that your winter time setting be around 68 degrees. Many people believe that if they turn their thermostats down 10 degrees at night during the winter, they’re saving. But if you own an electric heat pump, you’re doing just the opposite.

When you return your thermostat straight to its normal setting the next morning, the thermostat will not use the heat pump to heat the air. It will use the more costly auxiliary/emergency heat to recover to your normal setting.

The reason is that the much more expensive auxiliary/emergency heat will come on when your unit attempts to recover to a comfortable room temperature the next morning.

When you move the thermostat up more than 2degrees, the system’s expensive auxiliary heat will kick on.

In general, the average heat pump costs about 35 to 40 cents an hour to operate. But auxiliary heat can cost $1 or more an hour.

In the summer, this is less of an issue because no auxiliary power comes on with your heat pump’s air conditioner.

Remember that pushing the thermostat drastically higher won’t make it warm up more quickly. In winter, when people enter the house and it feels cold, they’ll often move the thermostat higher than they really want the temperature to be, thinking that will warm up the house faster. It won’t (unless you own a heat pump, which will kick on the expensive auxiliary heat). Instead, the furnace will continue running until it reaches the temperature at which the thermostat is set—85 degrees, say—which is far warmer than your house needs to be.

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Space Heaters




If you use an electric space heater in your home, please be aware of two key issues. Using a space heater can cause a significant increase in your monthly bill. Also, many house fires that occur each winter are caused by improper use of space heaters.

On energy consumption, be aware that space heaters are energy hogs. If you do the calculation on the cost of operation, you’ll often be surprised how much your space heater can increase your monthly electric bill.

A typical portable electric space heater consumes anywhere from 1,000 to 1,500 watts per hour. Some people run space heaters during day and night hours. By the time your bill arrives, the hourly costs add up.

For example, a 1,000-watt space heater operating 12 hours per day at a cost of 10 cents per hour will add $36 more to your monthly electric bill.

If you use a 1,500-watt space heater for the same amount of time, your bill would jump more than $54 each month.

To figure out the cost of operating a space heater you need to multiply the kilowatts used per hour times the cost per kilowatt hour for electricity. Multiply that by the number of hours that the heater is actually on.*

If the cost does not deter you, remember it is critically important to use space heaters safely. Make sure your unit is equipped with automatic shut-off features and heating element

guards. Place your space heater out of high-traffic areas and on level, hard, non-flammable floor surfaces — NOT on carpets, furniture or countertops.

Remember to keep space heaters at least three feet from all flammable items such as draperies, blankets and sofas.

* To calculate the kilowatts used, divide the space heater’s wattage by 1,000. A 1,500-watt unit uses 1.5 kilowatts per hour.

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Sealing Ductwork




Many Kentucky homes are wasting energy and valuable dollars because of leaks in the duct system.

In forced-air heating and cooling systems, efficiency can be improved by as much as 30 percent by sealing these leaks.

By eliminating leakage in the ducts, the home’s heating and air conditioning system can provide comfort with decreased run-time. This will result in lower utility bills and improved air quality. It will also extend the life of the equipment.

In most homes, the ducts are usually located in the attic, crawl space or basement.

Provided the ductwork is accessible, sealing it is a relatively simple procedure and often makes an immediate improvement in the circulation of conditioned air throughout the house.

This is accomplished by applying a substance called mastic with a paintbrush to every duct seam, with special attention paid to the return side of the system.

Mastic is a gray paste-like substance containing fiber, which is easily spread across the seams of the ductwork. It dries to a solid cement-like quality, providing a permanent solution to unwanted leakage on both the return and supply side of the ductwork.

Mastic can be purchased at companies that sell

wholesale supplies to heating, ventilation and air conditioning contractors.

Once the leaks are fixed with mastic, additional savings can be achieved by insulating the ducts located in unheated areas with either foil-faced fiberglass duct insulation or foil-faced “bubble wrap.” The insulation is simply wrapped around the duct and tied or taped into place.

If the ducts are inaccessible, it’s advisable tohire a contractor to conduct a pressure test with a special fan. This “blower door” test can determine if you have serious leakage. Some duct connections simply may have come apart.

In most cases, a little time spent addressing this issue can make a major difference in the energy efficiency of your home.

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Residential Lighting TOGETHERWESAVE EASY ENERGY TIPS

The cost to light your home is a major part of your electric bill, but the options for energy efficient bulbs can be mind boggling.

You can save a lot over time by investing in slightly more expensive compact fluorescent bulbs (CFLs) or LEDs. While you pay less up front for inefficient lights (an incandescent bulb is only 37 cents, compared with $1.74 for a CFL and $9.47 for an LED), the CFL and LED bulbs use much less electricity and last much longer, providing savings month after month.

Assuming three hours a day of operation, LED bulbs last 25,000 hours, compared with 10,000 hours for CFLs, and 1,000 hours for incandescent bulbs (standard and new halogen versions). The savings realized on electricity and replacement costs for LED and CFL lights add up.

Over 20 years, an incandescent bulb has a $171 total operating cost, requiring 22 bulb changes. Total operating costs for a CFL over the same period are $43, requiring three bulb changes, while an LED has a $35 total operating cost and requires just one bulb replacement.*

To make sure your CFLs and LEDs emit enough light, buy bulbs that provide lumens equal to or better than incandescent bulbs. A 60 watt incandescent emits 860 lumens, while a 75 watt incandescent produces 1,100 lumens.

If you prefer the warm yellow light provided by incandescent bulbs, you’ll want CFLs or LED bulbs labeled as “warm white” or “soft white.” They will be rated at about 2700 Kelvin (K).

On the other hand, if you like crisp white colored lighting, buy efficient bulbs with a rating of at least 5000 Kelvin (K). The higher the Kelvin rating, the brighter and whiter the light.

The main thing to remember: over time, you’ll save a lot with LEDs and CFLs.

Total Lighting Operating Costs**

Bulb Type 1 Year 10 Years 20 Years

Incandesent(standard)

$8.52 $85.5411 bulb

replacements

$171.3022 bulb

replacements

CFL $3.54 $22.492 bulb

replacements

$43.243 bulb

replacements

LED $10.76 $21.371 bulb

replacement

$35.771 bulb

replacement

* Source: Kentucky Living 2014 (fi gures rounded)

** Source: Kentucky Living 2014 , based on 3 hours a day operation and national average electricity costs of 12.4 cents per kWh.





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TOGETHERWE EASY ENERGY TIPS 20...EASY ENERGY TIPS 1 Doing proper maintenance on your home’s air conditioner will ensure that your system is operating as efficiently as possible