TLE 8QUARTER 1

NAIL CARE

Nail structure and Nail shapes

Learning Objectives

In this lesson, you should be able to:

❖identify nail structure; ❖describe different nail shapes; and❖perform nail trimmings to varied shapes.

What are the different parts of the nails?

What makes each shape unique for the individual?

What are the different nail shapes?How do I trim the nails to shape them?

Nail Structure Keratin , a tough protein found in our fingernails and toenails, is also found in animal hooves and horns.

Nail Anatomy

Nail Physical Appearance

Nail Plate

The nail plate is what we usually identify as the “nail,” the most visual, outside appearance of the nail unit and the most functional part too. It is composed of a hardened keratin plate that covers the nail bed. As it grows, the nail plate slowly slides across the nail bed. The nail plate is actually constructed of about 100 layers of nail cells and is formed by the matrix cells .

Distal Edge/ Free Margin/ Free Edge

The distal edge or free margin or free edge is the outside margin of the nail plate to the cutting edge of the nail. The distal edge or free edge is the part of the nail plate that extends over the tip of the finger or toe.

Cuticle

The nail cuticle is a dead tissue. It is colorless and is attached to the natural nail plate. It is seen at the top of the natural nail plate and on the undersides of the skin. The cuticle function is to seal and attach the space between the natural nail plate and living skin. This also prevents microorganisms and surrounding materials from going through the skin and to avoid injury and infection.

Nail Bed

The nail bed is the part of a living skin that supports the nail plate as it grows toward the free edge. It is supplied with blood vessels therefore it has a pinkish appearance from the lunula to the area just before the free edge of the nail.

Nail Matrix/ Matrix Bed

The nail matrix or matrix bed is the area where the nail plate cells are formed. This area is composed of matrix cells that produce the nail plate cells. The matrix contains nerves, lymph, and blood vessels to nourish the matrix cells. When the nail matrix is healthy, the matrix will continue to create new nail plate cells. The matrix extends from under the nail fold at the base of the nail plate.

Lunula

Lunula has a pearly or whitish color which is caused by the reflection of light off the surface of the matrix. The lighter color of the lunula shows the true color of the matrix. When an individual is in poor health, has an illness or nail disease, the growth and larger appearance of the lunula may occur.

Eponychium

The eponychium is the living skin at the base of the natural nail plate that covers the matrix area. It is a living tissue that grows up to the nail plate. It pulls free to form a seal between the natural nail plate and the eponychium. Cosmetologists are prohibited from cutting the eponychium, even when a client requests it during a service.

Hyponychium

The hyponychium lies between the fingertip and the free edge of the natural nail plate. It is the slightly thickened layer of skin seen underneath the edge of the nail plate. It creates a barrier to prevent microorganisms from invading and infecting the nail bed.

Nail Folds (proximal and lateral)

There are two types of nail folds--proximal and lateral. They are folds of normal skin that surround the nail plate. These folds form the nail grooves, which are the slits or furrows on the sidewall. 1. Proximal Nail Fold - The soft tissue that protects the emerging nail plate. 2. Lateral Nail Fold or Sidewall - An extension of the proximal nail fold; protects each side of the nail plate.

Distal Phalanges

Distal Phalanges are the fingertips or toenails . Their main purpose is supporting the sensitive flesh of the fingertips or toes where there’s a large concentration of nerve endings or feelings of touch.

Epidermis

The epidermis is the upper or outer layer of the two main layers of cells that make up the skin.

Specialized Ligaments

A ligament is a tough band of fibrous tissue that holds and attaches the nail bed and matrix to the underlying bone.

Specialized ligaments attach the nail bed and matrix bed to the underlying bone. These ligaments are located at the base of the matrix and around the wedges of the nail bed.

Identify the two types of nail folds. Compare the two nail folds.

What is the difference between eponychium and cuticle?

What is a free edge for?

Give the importance of lunula.

Different Nail Shapes

The shape of the nails depends on the fingertips of the individual. There are several kinds of nail shapes namely square, squoval, round, oval, almond, coffin, and stiletto or pointed. We will discuss it in this lesson.

1. Square

The square nail has straight sidewalls, two sharp points on the tips, and a straight free edge. You can attain a square nail by allowing the nail to grow out straight and then filling the tip straight across at right angles with the rest of the nail plate. It is the usual shape to do a traditional French manicure and is used frequently for detailed nail art designs.

How to File:

1. Shape the free edge and side walls first with a medium-grade file (150 grit). 2. Turn the client’s hand around to straighten the free edge, the file should be

perpendicular to the nail to achieve the square.3. File the side wall straight up and then change the angle to blend. 4. Repeat this on the other side. 5. Once both sides are finished, use angles to lightly

feather and bevel the nail and to sharpen the corners.

2. Squoval

The squoval nail is the same with square. It has a length of a square nail but there are softer edges of an oval. Squoval nails make short, wide nails to appear lengthier without being oversized.

How to File:

1. Begin with the square nail. Make sure the sidewalls of the nails are straight.

2. Tilt the file underneath the corners and file back and forth from the underneath up to gradually take the corners off.

3. Round only the part of the tip (on the sides) that is past the free edge.

3. Round

The round shape is used to create a softer, more conservative look, and it’s also a common choice for male clients. The goal of the round shape nail is to appear more natural. This is a strong shape which is great for those who keep their nails short.

How to File:

1. Trim the nails short. 2. File the side walls straight out, and then round out the

corners to complete the curved shape. 3. Be careful not to take too much off on each side or else it

will look unbalanced. 4. The finished round nail should be slightly tapered and

extend just past the tip of the finger.

4. Oval

The oval shape is an attractive nail shape for most women’s hands. It is the perfect nail shape. This is common among people with long, perfect nail beds. It only works for people with longer nails. It may be styled slightly rounded at the base and slightly pointed at the fingertips. The oval can add length to a nail while retaining the softer curves of the round shape.

How to File:

1. Begin by straightening your sidewalls and making sure they are even.

2. Then begin filing from the side of the nail toward the top, using smooth, arching motions with the file. File the other side of the free edge. Keep the 45 degree angle and file in one direction only

3. Blend the angles on both sides and around the free edge to smooth into the oval shape.

4. The finished oval should have a nice balance between the cuticle shape and the free edge.

5. Almond

Almond nails are a very common pick for celebrities. With almond, the nail is slender on the sides and wide on the base, coming to a peak like an actual almond.

Almond Shape Nail Design

Coffin Shape Nail Design

6. Coffin

A coffin shape nails has squared off tip that makes it look like a coffin. You can have the coffin look on your natural nail, but it will look a lot better with false nails.

7. Stiletto/ Pointed

A pointed shape can create length and have a slenderizing effect on the hand. The nails are filed at the sides to a point at the tip which makes this shape very weak as the sides of the nail (which provide the strength) are totally lost.

What is the preferred nail shape of male clients?

What is the preferred nail shape of celebrities?

What is the perfect nail shape?

How do you file a square-shaped nail?

Nail Trimmings

Nail Trimmings is important in hygiene and beautification. It is a very easy task to do this but sometimes may cause little problems such as ingrown nails when not done properly.

Steps in Nail Trimmings

1. Prepare the tools needed such as a nail cutter with small or medium slightly curved blades, which is suitable for trimming the fingernails. Nail cutters with straight blades are suitable for use for the toenails.

2. Clean the nail cutter before use. Wash it to remove dust and germs. Dry after washing to maintain its sharpness.

3. Wash the hands before trimming the nails. Wipe hands with towel or tissue paper. Clean and soft fingernails are easier to cut.

4. Cut the nails in a bright room with good lighting. Put a small container near you to collect the trimmed nails. 5. Decide the shape of the nails you or your client wants before cutting them. 6. Cut the nails starting from the little finger. 7. When cutting the nails, follow the curve of the nail to get a clean cut. Two to three cuts of a fingernail will

clean the parts. Check skin flaps and remove them when trimming. 8. Sit comfortably and crouch the knee side-wards to trim the nails easily and clearly. Adjust if you feel

discomfort while trimming. 9. Use a nail file to smoothen any rough and odd surface of the newly trimmed nails. When filing, do it in on tilt

– from the corner of the nail to go down. 10. Apply some moisturizer on your hands to keep the cuticles moisturized and smooth.

Doing a Plain manicure

It is the traditional application of nail polish to the entire nail plate.

Steps

1. Apply base coat a. Begin with little or pinky finger of one hand. b. Repeat polish application on the other hand.

2. Apply two coats of polish a. Use light long strokes from nail base to free edge. b. Apply polish to the middle of the nail first and then

to the sides. c. Repeat second coat of polish to both hands. d. Remove excess polish around nail with a cotton

tipped orangewood stick. 3. Apply top coat

a. Apply a top coat over the entire nail plate.

Did You Know?

❖ The water content affects the nail’s flexibility. Lower water content leads to more rigid nails.

❖ It can take 4-6 months for a whole fingernail to grow and up to one year for the toenails.

❖ A normal healthy nail grows in a variety of shapes depending on the shape of the matrix. The average rate of growth is 1/10 an inch per month.

❖ Age can affect the nail growth. The older you are the slower the growth of your nails.

❖ Nails grow faster in summer.❖ The middle fingernail grows fastest and the thumbnail grows the slowest.❖ Toenails grow slower than fingernails but the result is they are harder and

thicker.