TIVOL

GIFTSTHATSHINETRENDS INTIMEPIECESJEWELRYFROM THERUNWAYS

PLUS: OUR

BIGGESTBRIDAL

SECTIONEVER!

ACCENT/THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS ! SPRING/SUMMER 2012

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From around the world to your jewelry box...

W E L C O M E T O T I V O L

on thecoverPenny Preville

Turquoise Collection

One of the most challenging (and most fun) aspects of our work is forecasting jewelry trends and following with innovative, fresh buys in stones and jewelry for the year. Our merchandise team traveled to three important shows this spring, including the largest luxury jewelry show in the world: The Basel Fair, which is held in Switzerland. We see absolutely breathtaking gems and designs from across the continents— including the kind of jewelry that one would think is best suited for a queen.

In February, we also traveled to The Tucson Gem Show, which is a one-of-a-kind experience that features loose colored gems of every hue and variety under the sun, from meteorites and petrified wood to finished jewelry. This show is such a wonderful experience because you never know what you’re going to see. It’s almost like sifting through a big treasure trove—and every once in a while, you hit the jackpot with a wonderful find.

We’d love to show you our new treasures. Welcome to the spring 2012 issue of Tivol Magazine!

My best,

Cathy Tivol

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Contents spring/summer 2012

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T I V O L

800-829-1515

WWW.TIVOL.COM

C O U N T R Y C L U B P L A Z A

220 NICHOLS ROAD

KANSAS CITY, MO 64112

H AW T H O R N E P L A Z A

4721 W. 119TH STREET

OVERLAND PARK, KS 66209

B R I A R C L I F F V I L L A G E

4131 N. MULBERRY DRIVE

KANSAS CITY, MO 64116

C H A I R M A N E M E R I T U S

HAROLD TIVOL

C E O

CATHY TIVOL

G E N E R A L M A N A G E R

BRIAN BUTLER

D I R E C T O R O F M E R C H A N D I S I N G

RYANN RINKER

D I R E C T O R O F C O M M U N I C AT I O N S

ADAM GEBHARDT

P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P

P U B L I S H E R

STU NIFOUSSI

E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F

KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

D E S I G N D I R E C T O R

HANS GSCHLIESSER

M A N A G I N G E D I T O R

JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

P R O J E C T M A N A G E R

LISA MONTEMORRA

D E S I G N E R S

CYNTHIA LUCERO

JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI

P R O D U C T I O N M A N A G E R

PEG EADIE

P R E S I D E N T A N D C E O

BRITTON JONES

C H A I R M A N A N D C O O

MAC BRIGHTON

Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary

depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2012.

Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550,

Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175;

Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-

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publishers. Volume 10, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark of

Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and

Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

FEATURES 1 Welcome Letter

4 Q&A with Brian Butler

6 Stephen Webster Event

8 Roberto Coin Event

10 David Yurman Event

12 Back to the Future: Hawthorne Plaza Remodel

15 Recipe: New Orleans-Style Bread Pudding

18 Accent Advisor

20 Spring’s Best Bets

30 Trends: Renewal

34 A Morgan Affair

36 Designers: Marco Bicego

38 From the Runways

42 Designers: Penny Preville

44 Protecting the Precious

56 Wellness: Haute Healthcare

58 Spirits: Gin Blossoms

64 Last Word: Last Bid for Love

WATCH SECTION48 Watchmaking: Lititz Watch

Technicum

52 Winders: Winding it Up

54 Profile: Michele Watches

18_content+mastheads - Q6.qxp:ACCENT 3/28/12 1:06 PM Page TIV2

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Q. How did you first become involved in the jewelry industry?

A. I have always been interested in rocks since childhood. In grade school I studied geology in our 4-H Club and received my first gem book. In junior high, I attended my first gem and mineral show in Chicago and bought my first loose gems, some of which are still in my safety deposit box today. In Brazil, while studying as a Rotary exchange student during my junior year of high school, I really got the gemstone bug. Brazil is home to approximately 50 percent of the world’s gem production. While travel-ing to Salvador, Brazil, I stopped in Minas Gerais and I bought some stones directly from miners. Next, I went to Sao Paulo and bought more gems. I met my grand-mother and brother in Rio de Janeiro, and we visited H. Stern. It was there that it hit me—I knew what I wanted to be when I grew up. In college, while studying Portuguese, I took my first courses in metal smithing, gem identification and dia-mond grading.

Q. How long have you been at Tivol? What are your favorite things about the company?

A. I started in the jewelry industry in 1985 and joined Tivol in 1998. Tivol has allowed me amazing opportu-nities to grow in my career and to continue following my passion for jewelry and gemstones. As a company, I love that everything we do is as a group. Around here, everything is a family-like decision process.

Q. What are some of the most memorable projects you’ve been involved with?

A. I have been heavily involved in the construction and remodeling of all of our stores. I’m also very proud of the addition of the Rolex space at our Hawthorne Plaza store. It’s a 500 square foot area that beautifully show-cases the timepieces.

Q. What endeavors are you most excited about in relation to your work at Tivol?

A. I am most excited about our Tivol Private Label collec-tions, and in particular, our new colored stone collec-tion and men’s collection. It’s very fun to create new pieces and to grow the Tivol line of designs. My favorite part of my job is to be involved with our team as we search the world for gems. It’s fascinating and exciting work. I feel like we are continuing Tivol’s history of making fine jewelry and selling the best product available. Being a part of that is something I treasure.

Q. If you could only design jewelry with one metal and stone combination, what would it be? Why?

A. If I had to choose, I would work with platinum and col-ored gems. Traditionally, rubies and emeralds are set in yellow gold—I love setting them in platinum. Overall, my personal favorite is my birthstone, the ruby.

Tivol’s general manager, Brian Butler, opens up about his passion for gemology and his long

career at Kansas City’s most iconic jewelry store.

QA&

4


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Tivol unveils the new fall collection by rock star jewelry designer Stephen Webster

10.14.2011 - Stephen Webster Event

A) Stephen Webster, Cathy Tivol, Harold

Tivol; B) Twyla Wilson, Polly Cooper, Lonnie Cooper, AJ Paddack; C) Jules Boasberg and

Michael Thomas Edmondson

A

B

C

6


10.14.2011 - Stephen Webster Event

A) Stephen Webster alongside some of the pieces in his “Murder She Wrote” collection; B) Ward Manes laughs with customers; C) Cindy Taylor, Stephen Webster; D) Frank Goldstin, Marcos Suarez, Damian Lair; E) The evening’s drawing winner Polly Cooper, Store Manager Gary Pener, Stephen WebsterA

B

CD

E

77


Italian designer Roberto Coin visits Kansas Cityfor the first time in more than 15 years

10.23.2011 - Roberto Coin Event

A) Barbara White, Jerry White; B) Hunter Tivol

McGrath, Roberto Coin; C) Roberto Coin

A

B

C

8


join us for a very special sunday afternoon, as roberto coin!"#$%&!'(&!)!*&+!,(&(+!+-!$#.&#&!/(+0!(.!"-*%!+'#.!12!0%#*&3

10.23.2011 - Roberto Coin Event

A) Sherie Bartlett and Faye Zacharias; B) Peter Webster, Store Manager Gary Pener, Leslie Snyder; C) Store Manager Stephanie Sass McHale, Kym Mossman; D) Mike Bohning, Kelly Bohning, Roberto Coin; E) Roberto Coin appears next to some of his latest confections.

A B

C D

E

9


11.04.2011 - David Yurman Trunk Show

Special items from David Yurmanmake a stop at Tivol

A) Merchandising Director Ryann Rinker,

Sara Lebovitz, Christy Hanson; B) Dan Meiners,

Marketing Director Adam Gebhardt; C) Joan McHugh, Earl McHugh;

D) Nichole Kennedy, Fiona Kennedy, Phil

Kennedy; E) Lisa Lyddon, Pam DiCapo, Ted Taylor,

Jack DiCapo

A

B

CD

E

10


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If you ask David Behnke what it’s like to go through a whole-store renovation, you’ll likely be amused by his reply. “It was hell,” smiles Behnke, the store manager at Tivol’s Hawthorne Plaza location. “But in the end, it was well worth it.” Along with CEO Cathy Tivol and general manager Brian Butler, Behnke oversaw the three-month-long remodel that began in August 2011. While the timeline was relatively swi! for a project of that scope, Behnke is quick to remind us, “It felt much longer than that.” During the transformation, Behnke and his sta" were relocated within Hawthorne Plaza to a temporary store-front directly west of the permanent location. #e storefront allowed Tivol to remain open while work progressed, but frills—along with personal workspace—were scarce commodities. “#e temp space served its purpose,” Behnke says. “But we were packed in like sardines. It wasn’t terribly attractive, and we had very little room for display cases. While I love my sta" and colleagues, it was pretty close quarters for a while. I’m really glad it’s over,” he laughs. #e faceli! of the actual Tivol at Hawthorne Plaza achieved three goals that company leaders had for the 17-year-old store: to make room for a new 500 square foot space dedicated exclusively to Rolex; to modernize the interior design to match the look and feel of Tivol’s two other stores; and to allow for more natural daylight to enter the sales $oor. “A Rolex space that large is very rare for an independent jeweler, particularly in the Midwest,” Cathy Tivol says. #e Rolex space allows the store to display about 175 timepieces at any given time, an increase of nearly 100 watches from the previous store’s design plan.

Overall, the store’s extra space equates to a nearly 50 percent increase in the amount of display cases over the previous lay-out, making room for dozens of additional jewelry presenta-tions—referred to in the industry as “stories.” #is newfound $exibility is helpful as Tivol continues to add brands to its collection. Michele, a line of watches new to the Hawthorne and Briarcli" Village stores, is a prime example, says Tivol. #e brand strongly appeals to young, fashion-forward individuals, and the remodeled Hawthorne location is the perfect setting for this line. Lighting was also carefully addressed as the store was redesigned. “In the old space, the lighting sometimes a"ected our

continued on page 60

back to thefuture

Tivol at Hawthorne Plaza undergoes a massive remodel that includes an exclusive space dedicated to Rolex.

Left: The new space dedicated exclusively to Rolex. Above: Tivol at Hawthorne Plaza during renovations.

By Adam Gebhardt

13


AaronBasha.indd 1AaronBasha.indd 1 3/10/12 10:43 AM3/10/12 10:43 AM

Ingredients• 8 cups day-old white bread, such as French or Italian, cut into 1-inch

cubes (toast if fresh) • 5 tablespoons unsalted butter • 2 cups heavy cream • 2 cups milk • 4 large eggs • 1 cup light brown sugar • 1/2 cup granulated sugar • 1/2 cup raisins (optional) • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract • 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon • 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg • 3 cups real whipped cream (you’ll need to make a triple batch)

(optional)

Chocolate Sauce • 1 1/2 cups semisweet chocolate morsels • 1 cup milk • 1 cup heavy cream • 2 tablespoons light brown sugar • 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

InstructionsPlace the cubed bread in a large mixing bowl.

In a small saucepan, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat and pour the butter over the bread cubes. Using a rubber spatula, toss to evenly distribute the butter.

Grease a 9 x 13-inch baking dish with the remaining 1 tablespoon of the butter and set aside.

In a medium mixing bowl, combine the cream, milk, eggs, brown sugar, granulated sugar, raisins (if using) vanilla extract, cinnamon and nutmeg. Whisk to combine.

New Orleans-Style Bread Pudding with Chocolate Sauce Recipe courtesy of Chef Emeril Lagasse

continued on next page

Bread pudding is up there as one of my favorite desserts, and this recipe is embarrassingly easy! I alter it slighly, however, by not using raisins and cutting off the crusts. Also, you can use any chocolate sauce you want. Yum!

-Cathy Tivol

15


Position rack in center of oven and preheat the oven to 350º.

Pour the cream mixture over the bread cubes and stir to combine. Let sit for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the bread is soft and has absorbed most of the liquid.

Transfer the bread mixture to the prepared baking dish and bake, uncovered, until the top is golden brown and crispy and the pudding is firm in the center (about 45 minutes).

While the bread pudding is baking, prepare the chocolate sauce.

Using oven mitts or potholders, remove the bread pudding from the oven and set aside on a wire rack to cool for at least 15 minutes before serving.

Serve warm with chocolate sauce and a triple batch of real whipped cream, if desired.

Yields 10 to 12 servings

Chocolate SaucePlace chocolate morsels in a medium mixing bowl and set aside.

Combine the milk, cream, brown sugar and cinnamon in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil.

Using oven mitts or potholders, remove the saucepan from the heat immediately and carefully pour the milk mixture over the chocolate morsels. Let sit for 1 minute, then whisk until smooth.

Set aside until the bread pudding is ready to serve.

Yields 3 cups

1616


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ACCENT(ADVISOR)

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I KNOW WOMEN WHOWEAR FASHION JEWELRYLIKE BANGLES OR BOLDCUFFS, BUT BUY THESEPIECES AT CLOTHINGSTORES AS OPPOSED TOJEWELERS (EVEN IF THEYHAVE TO REPURCHASETHE PIECES WHEN THEYTARNISH). WHAT AREYOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS? I think many women balancetrendy fashion jewelry that theydon’t expect to last foreverwith items that they cherish,wear often and want to last.Since a great bangle is a classicthat will be in style forever, it’sworth investing in somethingboth fabulous and enduring.

WHAT’STHEDIFFERENCEBETWEENANTIQUEJEWELRY ANDESTATEJEWELRY?“Estate” is a popular jewelry

label, but does not specify theperiod of manufacture. “Estate”is primarily used to describejewelry that is previously owned.

The term “antique” generallyapplies to jewelry items that areat least 100 years old, thebenchmark used by governmentofficials for duty-free importingof antiques.

For spring 2012, everythingold is new again, so considerboth of these options, or try re-setting one of your own familyheirlooms.

WHICH CLASSIC/TIMELESSPIECES ARE MOST LIKELYTO BECOME KEEPSAKES OR HEIRLOOMS? Those that hold their value or can be passed to the next generation; a favored piece canbecome your signature. We have a client who is never (ever!) seen without a beautifulstrand of pearls that her husband bought her many years ago; whether at the grocerystore or at a gala, her pearls say it all. And that’s the key: finding a statement piece ofjewelry (“statement” need not mean “expensive”) and letting it become your trademark.We’ve noticed that when times are tougher and discretionary spending more limited,jewelry becomes even more personal and relationship-driven. If you buy only one itemthis year, make it special and enduring.

WHICH ITEMSSHOULD ICONSIDERBUYING THISSEASON?For both ladies and gents, a good watch is anabsolute must! If you can invest in only one greatpiece of jewelry, let it be a practical and stylishwatch to enjoy for many years. It should cross overinto any activity, and should dress up or down.

When you have more to invest, consider buyingboth a “dress” and a “sports” watch. But in theinterim, one great watch transcends numerousstyles and ventures!

Three other ideas for ladies: 1) a beautiful strandof pearls, either classic round or baroque (uneven)shaped; 2) diamond stud earrings, a true go-with-everything item to wear with denim or ball gowns;and 3) a necklace or pendant with personalmeaning, like your children’s names or initials, animportant date, a display of faith or spirituality. (Ifyou’ve ever noticed women constantly touchingtheir necklaces, it’s likely because they feel anemotional connection to the symbol.)

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inblue inpink inbrown inorange ingray inred inwhite inblack ingreen

spring’s best bets


spring’s best betsinbluea. Penny Preville $6,795

18K white gold diamond and sapphire earrings

b. Bell & Ross $4,500Ceramic Aviation watch

c. Tivol $21,700Palladium and blue sapphire men’s ring

d. Penny Preville $17,07518K white gold, diamond and blue sapphire ring

a.

b.

c.

d.

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inpinka. Jack Kelége $38,950

Platinum and 18K rose gold pink tourmaline and diamond ring

b. Tivol $6,200Platinum, pink sapphire and diamond ring

c. Roberto Coin $4,40018K rose gold, pink sapphire and diamond earrings

d. Rolex $13,000

e. Caleo $3,395Sterling Silver bracelet, rainbow moonstone with pink opal

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

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inbrowna. Tivol $8,250

18K white gold and chocolate moonstone earrings

b. Michele $2,395Deco Day chronograph

c. Victor Velyan $17,480Fine silver and 24K yellow gold cuff bracelet with faceted diamonds

a.

b.

c.

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inorangea. Rahaminov $117,600

18K yellow gold fancy multi-color diamond necklace

b. Tivol $12,750Platinum and 18K yellow gold spessartite garnet ring

c Aaron Basha $4,700Orange leather strap bracelet with 18K yellow gold charms

d. TAG Heuer $1,100Stainless steel Formula 1 watch

a.

b.

d.

c.

24


ingray


a. Tivol $3,30018K white gold and gray moonstone pendant with black and white diamonds

b. Tivol $5,62518K white gold and gray moonstone earrings with black and white diamonds

c. Mikimoto $9,100Multi-colored Tahitian cultured pearl strand with 18K white gold clasp

d. Cartier $34,000Ladies 18K white gold Delice De Cartier watch

a.

b.

c.

d.

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inred


a. Stephen Webster $16,00018K white gold rock crystal and red garnet diamond necklace

b. TW Steel $825Chronograph watch with red dial

c. David Yurman $675Sterling silver coral beaded bracelet

a.

c.

b.

26


spring’s best betsinwhitea. Mikimoto $3,660

Akoya pearl strand with 18K white gold clasp

b. Marco Bicego $1,29018K yellow gold and pearl earrings

c. Rolex $33,750Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36mm 18K white gold and mother-of-pearl dial

d. David Yurman $1,190Sterling silver and white agate necklace

a.

b.

c.

d.

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spring’s best betsinblacka. Tivol $16,280

18K white gold and black diamond hoop earrings

b. Tivol $17,60018K white gold and black diamond ring

c. Rahaminov $6,16018K white gold and black diamond pendant

d. Baume & Mercier $5,700Stainless steel Hampton with diamonds

a.

b.

c.

d.

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ingreenspring’s best bets

a. Lagos $295Sterling silver crystal over malachite earrings

b. Carelle $6,250Green tourmaline ring with pavé diamondsset in 18K yellow gold

c. Tivol $3,90018K white gold, green tourmaline and diamond earrings

d. Michele $1,645Deco Day Diamond chronograph watch on a vivid green patent leather strap

a.

b.

c.

d.

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There are many ways to reenergize: yoga and meditation, a day at thespa, a cruise to wherever! But this year, it seems like everyone is talkingabout adding gemstone jewelry to that list of natural mood elevators.

From fashion insiders to celebrities and their stylists, it’s being recognized as ade rigueur accessory. As jewelry lovers, we know it’s beautiful...so why such bigbuzz now? Part of it has to do with the trending fashion colors this year—all ofwhich are available in gemstones—being touted as über uplifting. But equallyimportant, it seems, are the many new jewelry collections fashioned aroundexhilarating non-traditional stone cuts, as well as gems that are either new tothe market or haven’t been widely used for quite some time.

COLORS TO CHEER ABOUTWhen “Tangerine Tango” was chosen by the Pantone Color Institute as theColor of the Year, it set the stage for 2012 to be a year of sunny shades in bothfashion and jewelry. Leatrice Eiseman, Pantone’s executive director, says, “It’sattention-getting, for sure, and surprisingly flattering,” alluding to the realitythat not all women have a zest for the color orange—despite the many tonesof tangerine gracing dozens of spring runways.

“But orange must be a new addition to every woman’s closet this year. Ifyou’re not daring enough to wear it as a dress, pants, or jacket, wear this colorin accessories—especially jewelry. You need at least one strong statementpiece with vibrant orange gems. I myself didn’t have any orange jewelry, but Iwent shopping as soon as I saw all the orange lighting up the fashion shows.Be the woman your friends look at. Don’t be afraid to let the adventure ofchildhood abandon come back into your life.”

Three other important citrus shades for spring and summer, says Eiseman,in fashion and its gemstone jewelry complements, are “Solar Power” yellow,“Cabaret” pink and “Margarita” green. “Fashion designers are also showing alot of blue and taupe, but they’re toned down. The blue is fresh without beingtoo out-there. All the blue gems are perfect accents [for each other], and greatfor blue tone-on-tone layering.” The other important classic neutrals for springand summer are both in the taupe family—what Pantone calls “Starfish” and“Driftwood,” so gray is taking a backseat, at least until fall. Shades in the brownfamily are “perfect when paired with any of your bright, attention-gettinggemstone jewelry,” adds Eiseman.

SOME REALLY COOL CUTSWhile classic rounds, cushions, squares and the like continue to be important,so, too, are the less conventional cuts, especially doublets, slices, roughs androse cuts. Veteran actress Regina King, one of this year’s celebrity models atthe 2012 American Gem Trade Association’s prestigious Spectrum jewelryawards, says, “It’s important for people to be open to considering gemstonesand cuts they’ve never contemplated before.” The current star of TV’s hit policedrama Southland adds, “There is so much artistry out there in contemporarygemstone jewelry—you really see that in some of the unusual cuts.” DOUBLETS These are basically two-layered gem designs, with one gem onthe bottom and the second stone laid over it, creating a very distinctive look.Says Cindy Edelstein, president of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau: “Thanks toclever gem cutters, designers are combining translucent rose cuts and gemslices with complementary opaque stones.”SLICES Typically, these gems are 2-D in form, with flat sides and bottoms. The

RENEWAL!THE SEASON’S FRESHEST COLORS,

NEWEST CUTS AND GOTTA-HAVE-’EMGEMS WILL ENERGIZE YOUR JEWELRY

BOX. BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

TRENDS

Left: Cocktail rings from Roberto Coin’s diamond-accented, 18K goldHaute Couture collection, in green garnet, peridot and black

sapphires; yellow topaz and citrine; and pink sapphires

30

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flatness allows light to pass through the piece, much likenatural light shining through a stained glass window.Sometimes the sliced gem is polished on both sides,depending on the designer’s individual vision.Helena Krodel, director of media and specialevents for Jewelers of America, says, “Thinkabout gemstone-slice earrings if you wantsomething lightweight and, at the sametime, very flattering; they bring light andcolor near the face.”ROUGH CUTS These asymmetricallyshaped gems—also called “raw”—are, for themost part, three dimensional, almostsculptural. They have an inherent, organic beautybecause they aren’t precision-cut to mathematicperfection. Each stone is, therefore, one of a kind.Vicente Agor, owner of an eponymous jewelry lineand president of the Contemporary Jewelry DesignGroup, says, “If you want jewelry that’s handcrafted andauthentic, with irregularities inspired by nature, designswith rough cuts are a great choice.”ROSE CUTS Steeped in history, various forms of rose cutshave been around since the mid-16th century. The gems, usuallycircular in outline, have a flat base and a crown composed oftriangular facets in symmetrical arrangement, which rise to form a point. Ifyou’re familiar with the oval briolette, that’s one variation of the rose cutand a favorite among contemporary designers who love color. Thisyear, rose-cut sapphires—especially in pink, green and blue—areshowing up everywhere.

...AND SOME REALLY HOT GEMSBarbara Wheat, executive director of theInternational Colored GemstoneAssociation, tracks coloredgemstone popularity worldwide.Here, she points to five gems shesees trending—especially in light offashion’s leading color choices,which, she says, likely means thesegems will get even more popular as weprogress through 2012.A TOP TANGERINE FIRE OPAL: Theseradiant orange-red gemstones are renowned inlegend and lore for their positive effect on the psyche.That said, you may have to pay the price for that profoundsensation of peace and harmony! Often the cost of these expressiveand fiery gems is determined by the play of color, body color andtransparency. “Fire opal is really popular in Asia,” says Wheat. Withtangerine as this year’s “Color ot the Year,” it will likely get strongerhere, too. Other favorites: Mandarin garnet, carnelian,orange sapphire, spinel, spessartite garnet, redagate.A GO-TO GREEN ZULTANITE: Thistransparent diaspore gem, found only inTurkey, hasn’t been used much in jewelry—until now. With its inherently interesting color-

change properties—from kiwi green tochampagne brown to raspberry

pink—it’s certainly out of theordinary, and the perfect choicefor anyone looking for

something unique or a trueconversation starter. Otherfavorites: chrysoprase, greenagate, peridot, green opal,green jade, green quartz,green amethyst, greengarnet, green tourmaline.A PRIMARY YELLOWCITRINE: “Lately, citrine has

been particularly popular,both for its color and the

variety of cutting styles beingused on it,” says Wheat. With its

sunny hue and often affordableprices, citrine has recently captured the

fancy of a growing number of typically high-end designers, many mixing it with a range oforange and pink stones on a single piece of

jewelry for a kind of overall neutral effect. Otherfavorites: topaz, golden beryl, chrysoberyl, yellow

moonstone, yellow sapphire.A “NEW” BLUE AQUAMARINE: One of the most in-vogue gems right now is aquamarine. Hardly new,

March’s birthstone is increasingly being spotlighted indesigner collections in every cut imaginable. “Yes,

aquamarine is in a revival period, especially hot inlarge sizes with good color saturation. I’ve also seen

an increasing number of modern brides choosingaquamarine for their engagement ring center

stone,” says Wheat. The lucid color—from the light blueof the sky to the deep blue of the sea—captivates. Other

favorites: chalcedony, moonstone, labradorite, sapphire,Iolite, Tanzanite, blue topaz.

A PERFECT PINK CHALCEDONY: A treasuredfavorite of the ancient world, chalcedony is

being featured more and more bytrendsetting contemporary artisans.

While it’s certainly one of the perfectlybeautiful pinks, chalcedony is wellliked in its blue and green varieties,

too. “Translucent chalcedony in allthree shades is hot—particularly big,

smooth cabochons,” says Wheat. Otherfavorites: pink tourmaline, rubellite, pink

sapphire and raspberry quartz.

Top: Zultanite and diamond necklaceby Stephen Webster.

Bottom: 21” necklace with 32 carved turquoisebeads and 22K yellow gold, from the Tivol

Collection. Sterling silver and 24K gold ring set withoval faceted turquoise, by Victor Velyan.

EVERYONE ISTALKING ABOUT

ADDING GEMSTONEJEWELRY TO THELIST OF NATURAL

MOOD ELEVATORS.

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“Brad Fire has a disorder where he can’t do anything on a small scale,” says Dawn Fire, his loving – yet only half kidding – wife of 12 years. Brad’s preference for colossal-scale living manifests itself in many ways, from ambitious vacations in the family’s oversized RV, to the couple’s equally generous—and contagious—senses of humor. One of the clearest examples of their tendency for larger-than-life endeavors, however, is Peeper Ranch, a 705-acre parcel of land in western Lenexa, KS that is devoted to the boarding of horses. It also happens to be used as a training ground for champion Morgans.

By Adam Gebhardt

AMorgan Affair

34


On a particularly overcast and windy February day, Dawn visits with us in her warm, comfortable o!ce in what is de-scribed as Peeper’s “barn,” a rustic, magnificent facility with slate floors, library paneled walls and bronze statues of some of her dearest and most lauded horses. She shares her work-space with a shih-poo, a standard poodle—and Teresa Jackson Beers—her operations manager and good friend of 18 years. (Among the four, it’s hard to tell who is more entertaining.) In addition to being close friends, the two women have a trust-ing business relationship, spending most of their days con-trolling the barn’s hefty, ever-evolving operations—all while cracking each other up like two schoolgirls serving detention. Despite several highly comical digressions, the two man-age to explain the history and legacy of Morgans, an American equine bloodline dating back to an 18th-century farmer named Justin Morgan, who lived in Vermont. A particular horse owned by Morgan was known for its “prepotency, distinctive looks, conformation, temperament and athleticism.” As this bloodline developed, so too did its individuality and notoriety for being a breed with a strong work ethic that also consumed about half as much food as its more ubiquitous cousins. Mor-gans also proved to be quite versatile, capable of everything from working cattle to performing as high-stepping show horses. For Dawn, this pliability is part of the Morgan appeal. “Every day I look at the young horses and wonder to myself, ‘What are you going to be?’” The obvious fondness for Morgans that Dawn exhibits was not innate, but rather landed in her lap almost by accident. In 1999, she and Brad returned to Kansas City after spending years in Seattle. Anticipating that they would soon start a family, Dawn thought back to her own childhood to when her parents kept horses for pleasure riding. Although she had no formal training, Dawn knew the animals had instilled a positive sense of responsibility and compassion—traits she wanted to reinforce in her own future children. She had not ridden in more than 15 years, but while shopping for horses she found a mare she fell in love with, named Mattie, who just happened to be a Morgan. Two weeks after purchas-ing Mattie, plans to reacquaint herself with riding fell through when Dawn learned she was pregnant with her first child, Jaden. While pregnant, Dawn and Brad developed plans to build and run a business together, something they both desired to do. With Dawn’s existing idea to incorporate horses into their lives, the concept of starting a full-fledged ranch soon came together. In 2000, construction began on a barn, originally designed to contain 20 horse stalls with a single arena. As builders started to prepare the land, Brad’s go-big-or-go-home instinct kicked in once plans were reviewed. In famous Fire fashion, the relatively simple, 20-stall project quickly

turned into a 72-stall facility with two training arenas. As for its unusual name, the Fires intended to o"set the ranch’s high-end design and finish level by dubbing it some-thing approachable and friendly that would make all visitors feel welcome. While searching for a name, Dawn gave birth to Jaden. Upon seeing her large eyes—or “peepers”—for the first time, the ranch’s title was solidified. While the purchase of Mattie was based on an emotional connection Dawn felt with the mare, she bought her second Morgan, Marin A"air, with the intent of becoming more actively involved in the show ring. After recovering from Jaden’s birth, Dawn began to train for competition while rid-ing Marin A"air. At first, things did not go well. “It was really hard,” Dawn says with a wry grin. “I couldn’t ride well at all.” But things were about to change. In 2002, the Fires hired Phil Fountain and his business partner—a"ectionately known as Mr. Wendell—to train, help manage the barn and assist Dawn in selecting horses for her to ride. They also brought on an additional professional trainer who worked with Dawn three to five days per week on three to four di"erent horses. With the purchase of yet another Morgan, Erotic Dancer, Dawn started to improve her skills. “It took 10 months until I could get to the point of riding Erotic Dancer,” Dawn says. “She was a hot tamale, but I loved it.”

In 2004, Dawn participated in her first show while riding Erotic Dancer. After months of preparation and hard work, she finished dead last at the Grand National Horse Show.“I remember walking up to accept the [last place] ribbon. I thought, ‘Well, this is humbling. I definitely have some work to do.’” Undeterred, Dawn spent the next year working with her team, focusing on problem areas and improving her weak-nesses. In 2005, she returned to the Grand National and came home as the World Champion. She went on to win an addi-tional World Champion title that same year. Dawn continued to solidify her record as an award-winning Morgan rider with Erotic Dancer, then while riding Trouble’s First Take and later Erotic Dancer’s son, Optimus Prime. All the while, Fountain worked his existing client base and began forging new relationships on behalf of Peeper

“Every day I look at the young horses and wonder to myself, ‘What are you going to be?’”

continued on page 6235


DESIGNERS

WARM GOLD AND SATURATEDSEMI-PRECIOUS GEMS BRING MARCO

BICEGO’S SPRING COLLECTIONTO LIFE. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

GETTING PERSONALWhat are you reading? I just bought a new apartment in Venice, so I’ve been looking to the shelter magazines for design inspiration. What are you wearing? I try to wear pieces that are relaxed and casualand fit into my everyday life—mostly Armani. What are you eating? Anything with fresh local ingredients and always vino!Where are you traveling? Basel, Switzerland to the jewelry fair todebut my newest collections.

COLOR POPS

In the 12 years since launching his collection, one thing has remainedunchanged for jewelry designer Marco Bicego: his love of gold. “Almostall of our collections are crafted from 18 karat yellow gold. It’s intrinsic

to our brand DNA,” says the Italian native with goldsmithing in his family’shistory. His loyalty to the metal makes for a smooth transition betweencollections and pieces that can always be mixed, matched and layered.

“I don’t really see jewelry as a trend,” Bicego tells us. “Each season ourcustomers gravitate towards certain [different] silhouettes, but there arealways constants in jewelry. It’s about a woman’s connection to a piece—anemotional feeling.”

This spring, the designer is excited to introduce his Africa collection,filled with long layering necklaces and colorful gems, which Bicego cites asabsolute must-haves for any woman looking to update her jewelrywardrobe. He has long been drawn to the beauty of Africa and was inspiredby unexpected natural elements, from baobab seeds to the stratified lavaof Kilimanjaro. “I was taken by the fascinating imperfections of yellow-goldjewels, similar to the imperfections found in the tribal jewels worn byAfrican women. The hand-engraved gold finishes generate warmth thatevokes the colors of the sub-Saharan land.” Bicego is an avid traveler andoften names his collections—Africa, Jaipur, Paradise, etc.—after thedestinations that inspire them.

When he’s not busy dreaming up new designs, Bicego relishes thechance to spend time with his wife and children, play in his local soccerleague and hunt for mushrooms. He can frequently be found outdoors,exploring his surroundings and searching for new ideas in “the beauty I findin everyday life, colors in nature and architectural design.” And of course,he adds, “I always try to imagine what my clients want to wear next!”

The bold spheresand jewels of theAfrica collectionare tangible andpronounced, yetremarkably light.

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FROM THE RUNWAYS

GoldGO FOR THE

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RAINBOWBright


DarkAND DANGEROUS



World renowned for its elegance,innovation and unique attention todetail, Penny Preville jewelry has

been worn by fashionable women from JackieOnassis to Nicole Kidman to Blake Lively. Here, anexclusive interview with the designer. How did you first get interested injewelry design?As a little girl, I’d go into New York City everySunday to visit my grandmother (Adele Preville, aself-described “Hungarian Gypsy”) at her ParkAvenue apartment. It was filled with amazingartwork: Chinese screens, Buddhas, rare art pieces.But what intrigued me most was her jewelry box,overflowing with Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels:exquisite pieces from different eras that mygrandfather bought her. I would touch them, trythem on, dream about them. My other grandmotherwas an artist (she painted Limoges china) as wasmy mother. Ultimately, I chose a major in fine arts. Iloved art history, re-living different eras.Describe your jewelry and the process tocreate it.Words that come to mind are intricate, romantic,

elegant, timeless. I’m all about the detail:beading, engraving, twisting, layering, texture…

My jewelry is made by artisans here in NewYork City: we start with an original model andmost of the work is done by hand: engraving,stone setting, polishing, finishing. Depending onthe piece, the process can take a few days to afew months.What inspires your designs?Travel. Nature. Architecture. Paintings. Fabrics.Lifestyle. Different civilizations (Egyptian,Byzantine, Ancient Greek, Russian…)How would you describe your personalstyle? What are your favorite jewelry pieces?There are two sides to me: very driven andpractical, but also romantic, very much a girly-girl.My favorite pieces include a garland ring, a widescroll-y diamond cuff that I wear for black tieevents, and a thin diamond bangle that I weareveryday. (It’s part of my body!)

I also love a Harry Winston ring with diamondsfrom the 1930s that my grandmother wore, and ablue star sapphire that my husband’s mother gotfrom her mother…

You work with your husband and twosons: how hard is it to combine businessand family? It can be challenging! Fortunately, we haveseparate roles: I do the design/creative and Jay(who started the business with me) managesfinancial/operations. Our two sons Skyler (32)and Derek (28) are learning all aspects and willhopefully find their niche. I didn’t expect the boysto join us: growing up, they were into sports andshowed little interest in the business. What are the key jewelry looks for 2012?Long chains, statement earrings, bangles andcuffs to mix and match, collectibles, differentstones, blackened metals and lots of color(especially blues!). I also believe in the mysticalpowers of certain stones—for strength or forprotection. What does a woman’s jewelry say about her?It’s reflects her style and individuality; it providesinsight into who she is as a person: spiritual,sentimental, practical... In fact, I love watching awoman select jewelry: when she finds the perfectpiece, it’s magical; it brings out something in her soul.

Signature Style

DESIGNERS

PENNY PREVILLE’S JEWELRY IS AS FEMININE ANDFABULOUS AS SHE IS! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

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Tivol’s Tracey Kahle carefully inspects a piece of jewelry. Tracey

handles all of Tivol’s in-house appraisals.


Murphy’s Law: Anything that can go wrong often will go wrong. Sometimes it seems like Murphy was talking specifically about the things in life we value most—or at least are the most excited about. Examples of his law seem to be abundant—the brand new car that gets dinged by a shopping cart, record-low temperatures during a tropical getaway, or staining an article of clothing while wearing it for the first time. But what happens when Murphy strikes on your treasured engagement ring, favorite earrings or best watch? It is a common misconception that a homeowner’s insur-ance policy fully protects individuals from the theft, damage or disappearance of jewelry and other valuables. In fact, most standard policies of this nature are peppered with fine print and have extensive limitations on coverage for jewelry, but most people do not learn they are underinsured or altogether uninsured until they file a claim with their insurance com-pany. When that moment comes, it is usually too late to make other arrangements to guarantee protection from the financial burden of replacing what one has lost. In fact, even if jewelry is covered under a home policy, it is subject to potentially expensive deductibles that can range from hundreds to even thousands of dollars depending on the provider and the client’s preferences. Additionally, any insur-ance claims filed in this manner can a!ect the premiums on a homeowner’s policy once it comes up for renewal—a premium increase that could be higher than the amount received to replace the lost or damaged piece in the first place. Even high-end carriers have limitations regarding jewelry. While these companies do o!er broader protection, the broker must still be consulted in order to establish a sensible coverage plan for specific items. Navigating this process can be challenging, but it is im-portant in order to safeguard a jewelry collection for the long term. This is why it is essential to utilize a broker that can pro-vide assistance in building an insurance program that protects a client’s best interests. Since brokers work with multiple in-surance companies, they are aware of the pros and cons of each policy and will be able to recommend the best option for an individual’s unique needs. It is always better to have a strategy in place that may include a mixture of jewelry coverage, item-ized (coverage for a defined piece of jewelry) and blanketed (a set amount of coverage that does not require a specific list of all of an individual’s jewelry items). Blanketed jewelry coverage

is underutilized, and is a wonderful solution for items that are $5,000 or less in value. Also, there are lower rates available for items stored in bank vaults, which may be a good solution for larger, more important pieces that are worn fewer than five times annually. Regardless of coverage, it is a best practice to have a thorough appraisal conducted on a jewelry collection every five years (or every two years for high-value pieces) by a trusted and reliable source in order to determine the proper insur-ance amount. This practice guarantees that one’s items are always fully insured to current market values, which minimizes financial risk. If it has been several years since a collection has been reappraised, one could not, with complete certainty, replace the item with an exact match—especially if the piece is gold, platinum, or a diamond, as these materials have seen a large increase in value during the last few years. This approach has an added bonus: An appraisal report will include detailed information about a collection in the event of a loss. Premier carriers o!er 150 percent of replacement cost based on this information, which can allow for a 50-percent bu!er to account for increased values or complicated searches for rare jewels or gems. Unfortunately, anyone may present himself or herself to the public as a personal property appraiser, since it is a field that remains largely unregulated. It is important to seek out an individual or a company that has the proper training, creden-tials and background to provide a trustworthy report and appraisal. Tivol’s own Tracey Kahle is among a handful of people in the United States who is certified as a personal property appraiser with a specialty in gems and jewelry by the International Society of Appraisers, making her a unique and valuable local resource for reappraising jewelry on a scheduled basis.

Amber Miller Manning is Vice President of Robert E Miller Group. She is a graduate of Loyola University Chicago and a native of Kansas City. She is the third generation of the 51-year-old family business. Robert E Miller Group specializes in personal property and liability insurance for business owners, professionals and executives.

By Amber Miller Manning

Protecting the PreciousInsurance matters may not be sexy, but obtaining proper coverage for valuable possessions such as jewelry could be essential to safeguarding your heirlooms.

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WATCHESACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2012

CO

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FOCUS: WATCHMAKING by Karen Alberg Grossman

The first thing one notices upon entering the stately stone buildingnestled in the rolling hills of Lititz, Pennsylvania (a town with astrong watchmaking tradition) is the magnificent brass clock in the

lobby. One soon learns it was crafted totally by hand by students in thisRolex-sponsored watch school, under the direction of its esteemedprincipal Herman Mayer.

Mayer is a certified watchmaker with tremendous pride in, andrespect for, the Swiss watchmaking tradition. His goal is to developindependent retail watchmakers who are technically exceptional, ofcourse, but who are also business-savvy, service-oriented, personable,well rounded and creative, a tall order to say the least. “The watchmakerof today needs to be compatible and in sync with the spirit of the high-end watch culture,” Mayer maintains.

His intense two-year program, establishedin 2001, is fully funded by Rolex (but totallyseparate from the Rolex Service Centerupstairs in the building). Mayer is personallyresponsible for creating and updating thecurriculum, which is also used at watchmakingschools in Seattle and Oklahoma. It features sixmain areas of training: history/culture, micro-mechanics, mechanical movement diagnostics

and repair, electronic movement diagnostics and repair, customer serviceand case/bracelet diagnostics and repair.

The school is small and selective, with a capacity for only 28 students(there are currently 12 first year students and 13 in their second year). It’san intense eight-hour school day (7:30 to 4:00, with a 30 minute lunchbreak) and requires much outside reading and research. According toMayer, most students are highly motivated and even talk watchmaking intheir free time. “We emphasize that whatever they don’t learn in these twoyears, they pay for later on…”

Of utmost importance to Mayer, who interviews and tests 70 to 80applicants each year looking for various skills, from strategic reasoningto social competence, is abstract thinking. “Because often in a fine

watch,” he explains, “you can’t diagnoseproblems just visually. You need to analyzebased on input and output of the mechanism:it’s behaving a certain way so the problemmust be this or that. You can’t always see theproblem because many watches are built inlayers, so the movements might be covered,or else just too small.”

Mayer admits that among his greatestfrustrations is a decline in abstract thinking

LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM: TEACHING WATCHTHINK

A REMARKABLE SCHOOL THAT INSTRUCTS THE ART, SCIENCE

AND SOUL OF SWISS WATCHMAKING.

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skills among young people over the past decade. “I’m sorry to say this,but in many applicants, these skills have gone down the drain. It’s a veryvisual world these days; we rely on computers to do everything soyoung people don’t learn to think for themselves. But in a watchmakingcurriculum, abstract thinking skills are essential. It’s all about deductivereasoning, which is no longer taught in school…”

Why are these skills so critical? “Because evenif the student has worked on hundreds of watches,the next movement that comes along might betotally different than anything he’s experienced. Soit’s not a matter of simply learning to piece thepuzzle together: students need to understand whatthe parts do and how they interact and whether ornot the watch is worth repairing. Of course it’s rarewhen you can’t fix it at all (e.g. serious salt waterdamage where parts are caked together), becauseeven if spare parts are not available, we can alwaysmake the parts. That’s what we teach them in the‘micromechanics’ segment of the program.”

According to Mayer, his ideal applicant is mid-to late 20s (the actual age range is 17 to 45 andmostly male; there are only one or two females perclass), in a second career but with some previousexposure to watchmaking. “If they’ve had someexposure, at least they know what the profession isabout: having to deal all day long with these tinyparts, the responsibility of working on suchvaluable pieces. Of course, there are always somewho drop out because it’s too stressful…” Recentapplicants have included bankers and real estatebrokers, some from major cities. “People havemore appreciation for job security when it’s a second career,” he explains.“And watchmaking certainly offers job security: all of our graduates whowant jobs get them.”

Beyond technical expertise (which Mayer believes can be taught),

the most important trait is the desire—the passion—to repair and buildwatches. Also necessary is the ability to communicate. Explains Mayer,“It’s essential that we teach students how to network: with peers, withmentors, with superiors, so they’re not left alone with importantdecisions. In fact, I’m working on making this an active component of

the curriculum.” On a personal note, Mayer grew up in

Würzburg, Germany; his university studies focusedon philology and teaching. But at some point, hislove of watches inspired him to study watchmaking,which led him to servicing jobs in the States, andultimately to Lititz.

In addition to restoring watches, Mayer is acollector: he wears a different watch every day andfavors those that combine technical precision with abeautiful finish. So dedicated is Mayer to the Lititzprogram that he even lets his students work on hispersonal watches (excluding vintage handmadepieces, of course!). His first expensive watch was infact a classic Rolex. Does he still have it? “Of course:Rolex watches are forever…”

His most meaningful watch is one he inheritedfrom his father. “When my dad returned from WWII,the economy was down so he drove a taxi onweekends. An American soldier who couldn’t affordthe fare gave him his automatic Cyma. I wore it everyday for years but at some point, it was difficult to getreplacement parts because their factory had burneddown. Observing the watchmaker adapting spareparts by hand was my first exposure to the craft andits artistry, which triggered my lifelong passion.”

Mayer’s best advice to graduating students? “Remember to take theloupe off on occasion and engage in meaningful, positive dialogue withmembers of your professional environment. You need to actively live theexciting and ever-evolving watchmaking culture you are part of.”

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“Nobody buysa fine watch justto tell time…” —Herman Mayer

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SEREIN DIAMOND

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FOCUS: WINDERS by Laurie Kahle

Like early automatic wristwatches designed to eliminate the need forwinding, watch winders originated as practical items to keeptimepieces ready for action at all times. Aside from the convenience

factor, winders can also extend the life of a watch movement. Theyensure that essential lubricants are evenly distributed throughout themechanism, and reduce wear and tear on the crown winding system bylimiting the need for resetting. But as watch collecting becomes a

consuming passion for many affluent consumers, some are seeking evermore elaborate storage systems to keep their horological treasuresenergized and secure. From models with high-concept designs featuringinlaid wood cabinetry and carbon fiber accents, to humidor componentsand stereo systems, winders have entered the realm of luxuryfurnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unit—theultimate of which is a completely custom installation. (Continued)

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WINDING IT UPTRANSCEND SHEER FUNCTION WITH A STYLISH CUSTOM INSTALLATION.

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Upon his retirement in the 1990s, Chuck Agnoff, founder and presidentof Orbita in Wilmington, N.C., received a gold Rolex automatic watch fromhis wife. He wore the watch on weekends, and found himself frustrated bythe need to constantly reset it when the power reserve ran out. He solved theproblem by devising a “gadget,” as he calls it, tokeep the watch moving when it wasn’t on his wrist.Soon, friends and jewelers started making requests,and Orbita was born. “First and foremost it was aconvenience,” he explains. “But later, I learned thatwhen a watch lays flat for a long time, the lubricantscan wick away from moving parts, so keeping yourwatch on a winder is also about preventativemaintenance that can extend its life.”

Orbita’s recent Avanti system was designed toaccommodate your ever-growing collection andcater to your personal needs. “It became a sort oflifestyle cabinet,” says Agnoff of the expandablestorage system that incorporates drawers where you can install a safe, ahumidor, a wine cooler, or other options. You can store up to 48 watches in theItalian-made Macassar or burl wood cabinets. “It’s a semi-custom winder,”explains Agnoff, “so it is priced economically because it’s built off a standardconfiguration—like buying a car and adding options.”

A similar made-to-measure approach is taken at Buben & Zorweg ofAustria. Known for its modern, slick aesthetic, the company can expand andtailor their winders to your wishes, or you can choose a custom installation.The Treasury, for example, presents an array of 10 interchangeable modules

that include winding modules for four or 16 watches, a humidor, displaycabinets for barware and red wine, and storage drawers for manual watchesand jewelry.

The brand’s limited-edition Objects of Time collection includes a modelproduced in partnership with Aston Martin. TheObject of Time One-77 (pictured above) seamlesslycombines a safe, a collection of the brand’sproprietary Time Mover watch winders, humidors,storage drawers, four world clocks, a sound systemwith a subwoofer and iPod docking station, and aflying minute tourbillion clock. The striking designemulates the muscular curves of the One-77supercar, which, like the winder, has a limitedproduction of 77 pieces.

The next level of watch storage is building acustom room, like the space commissioned by one ofOrbita’s West Coast clients. “It was a unique project,”

explains Agnoff. “He was building a new house and wanted a security room(basically an exhibition area) for all his watches, so he could relax and enjoyhis collection.” The project involved constructing a room with built-in storageunits that hold 108 winders for automatic timepieces, in addition to storagedrawers for over 200 watches. “But very few people want to go through thatkind of process—starting from scratch and working with architects,” saysAgnoff, who said the project cost around $125,000 and required six to eightmonths from concept to completion.

Luckily, you have options.

53

Winders have entered the realm

of luxury furnishingswith an array of

options to create apersonalized unit.

The design of the Object of Time One-77 watch winder (above, right) emulates the muscular curves of the Aston Martin One-77 supercar.

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FOCUS: PROFILE by Randi Molofsky

Awalk through the historic district of downtown Miami encapsulatesmuch of Michele Watches’ telltale brand appeal: both share an ArtDeco design sensibility, vibrant color palette and bold sense of style.

It’s no wonder Michele is favored by a fashion-forward clientele with aninnate understanding of classic design.

From speedboats to soirees, everything is a little bigger in Miami.The same is true for Michele, as oversized cases emphasize a bit offlash and a signature red button logo creates instant cachet. Miami’sseaside location also necessitates a certain day-to-nighttime glam.Lounging poolside? Bold chronographs with rubber straps from theJelly Bean collection or a sporty white Tahitian Ceramic are chicstandouts. When the sun goes down, diamond-studded timepiecesmake a big statement at affordable prices.

Spring 2012 brings a refined update on Michele’s instantly

recognizable style. Serein, inspired by the Cloette, features a modern takeon a timeless design. A silvery-white dial highlights a fine circular patternand oversized Roman numerals. The Caber Sport maintains the Caber’sround case and T-bar design, now updated with a scalloped bezel andchronograph dial (available with or without diamonds).

One of Michele’s most popular styles, Tahitian Jelly Beans, is alsoreinvented this year in new brights and beach-inspired pastels. Look-at-me neons like pink, blue and green are balanced by seaside neutrals inmint, coral and steel.

Want to make a unique statement any time of year? The brand’scommitment to practicality and fun led them to offer a stunning variety ofstraps that are easily mixed and matched. From alligator to glittery leather,cobalt blue to rainbow stripes, a sense of play makes punctuality a breeze,whether or not you can make it down to North Beach.

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SO HOT THEY’RE COOLMICHELE OFFERS STYLES FOR EVERY SETTING.

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A million little pieces...Servicing a watch every four to fi ve years is as important as regularly changing the oil in a vehicle. Proper maintenance helps ensure its

longevity and can matter as much as the piece’s original craftsmanship.

At Tivol, our highly experienced watch shop sta! completely disassembles the hundreds of components inside your timepiece,

checking each part for wear and proper functionality while it is fully serviced. This process helps protect your investment throughout its

lifetime, your lifetime—and for its generations of owners to come.

tivol.com 816.531.5800


When was the last time you went to a spinning class with yourdoctor? How about bike riding or grocery shopping together?Like fashion and jewelry trends, healthcare trends evolve. One

“new” trend (it’s actually been around for a decade) is concierge medicine. Also referred to as boutique medicine, concierge medicine often works

with insurance or Medicare, offering members 24/7 access to their primarycare physicians, immediate appointments, better connections to topspecialists and, in some cases, house calls. (In order to participate, patientsalso pay a fee independent of insurance.) This unique approach is designednot only to enhance routine exams and the treatment of illnesses, but alsoto educate patients and create awareness in preventive care. The theory isthat a closer doctor-patient relationship encourages the patient to becomesavvy and proactive enough to ward off ailments that can lead to sickness.

One trendsetter in concierge medicine is MDVIP, a company withover 175,000 patients and 500 physicians in its network across 34 statesand the District of Columbia. Annual memberships range from $1,500 to$1,800. MDVIP was founded in 2001 by two primary care physicians whowanted to focus on personalized care and a reinvention of the primarycare model. “These doctors believed there had to be a better way to putthe patient first, emphasizing not just treating people after they becamesick, but actually helping them stay healthy,” says Mark Murrison,MDVIP’s president of marketing and innovation. According to Murrison,the average primary care practice has about 2,400 patients, so it’s notunusual for doctors to see around 35 to 40 patients in a typical day. It’s

estimated most doctors spend approximately eight minutes or less witheach patient, which Murrison believes is barely enough time to addressthe symptoms or underlying causes of an illness. MDVIP doctors captheir practice at 600 patients, with about 10 to 12 patient visits per day,allowing for higher levels of specialized care. Data shows MDVIP has apatient yearly renewal rate of 92%, with a patient satisfaction rate of96%. There’s also evidence that MDVIP members are hospitalizedsignificantly less than non-MDVIP members—Medicare beneficiarieshave 75% fewer hospitalizations and insured patients 65% fewer.

Other member-based companies are gaining recognition forinfusing traditional medicine with specialized care. WhiteGlove Health,based in Austin, Texas, works primarily with self-insured companies,helping them with costs and enabling them to provide betterhealthcare to their employees and dependents. Their model involvesmobile primary care, essentially house calls, where a nurse practitionercomes to a member’s home, workplace, hotel room, etc., offeringdedicated care for both acute and chronic illnesses, wellnesscounseling, diagnostic testing and prescription medications. “It’s likeMarcus Welby: the good old fashioned house call that we’ve broughtback and made affordable,” says Michael Cohen, VP of marketing.

Clearly, concierge medicine has the potential for significant growth.With an estimated 5,000-plus physicians now practicing it, it might just bea matter of time before you too are organizing bike rides and supermarketoutings with your doctor in order to stay healthy.

HAUTE HEALTHCAREBOUTIQUE MEDICINE IS ALL THE RAGE. BY LISA MONTEMORRA MENGHI

WELLNESS

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Natural DiamondNot Synthetic

Color Grade

E

Clarity Grade

VS1

Cut Grade

Excellent

Laser Inscription Registry NumberGIA 16354621

Carat Weight

1.53

THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY.

A GIA report is certainty from the source.

As creator of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System,™

GIA sets the standards for diamond assessment, worldwide. Unbiased. Scientifi c.

A report from GIA gives you a clear understanding of your diamond’s quality.

Look for GIA Diamond Grading Reports and the jewelers who o! er them. www.4cs.gia.edu

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“EIGHT YEARS AGO, every bar in the U.S. had perhaps four gins onthe back row, and perhaps four million vodkas on the front,” says SimonFord, international brand ambassador for Plymouth and Beefeater gins.Today, the scene is, thankfully, far more complex, with gin cocktailsdominating many a bar menu.

Gin got its start when 17th-century British mercenaries discoveredDutch genever (a malted spirit with juniper) during the Thirty Years’ War. Ittraditionally consists of an amalgam of botanical “flavors” (seeds, roots,berries) infused into a high-proof neutral base spirit and re-distilled. Whatspirit and flavorings are used, and how they’re processed, creates differentgins. Hendrick’s “steams” a basket of botanicals with the vaporized alcohol,then adds cucumber and floral notes. Beefeater steeps its botanical brew,distills it and blends it with (essentially) vodka, cutting the distillate at justthe right moment to capture citrus notes. Citadelle Reserve is barrel-agedfor six months. Lest you shy away from gin for all that juniper, know thatonly London Dry styles (think Tanqueray or Bulldog) are expected to havejuniper-driven flavor profiles. New Western Dry styles, like Aviation andG’Vine (made with grape alcohol), might emphasize orange, rose orsaffron. If you seek something truly over-the-top, Nolet’s Reserve ($700) isa limited-edition Dutch sipping gin with notes of saffron and verbana.

Want to try your hand at blending the perfect gin? For about $65,Plymouth Gin master distiller Sean Harrison will guide you through hishistoric distillery in southwest England, lead a comparative tasting, thenturn you loose to create your own mini-bottle. You’ll have your choice of 20different botanicals, and cook it all up in a miniature still.

GINBLOSSOMS

GIN HASN’T BEEN THIS POPULAR IN 300YEARS. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

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clients’ ability to see the clarity and brightness of a diamond,” Butler says. “On occasion, we would bring customers outside the store so they could fully appreciate the quality of a piece. With the new lighting plan and with our exterior windows now fully visible inside the store, that issue has been resolved.” By mid-November 2011, company and crew were moving jewelry and o!ce supplies back into the original store at an accelerated pace, all while "nishing touches were still being put on the Rolex space. #e grand re-opening celebration had already been scheduled for November 19. “#e pressure was on,” Cathy Tivol says. In the end, Tivol made its deadline. #e party was held as planned, with more than 250 guests in attendance. Among them were representatives from Tivol’s selected charity of the evening, KidsTLC, an Olathe, Kansas-based organization that provides shelter and social services to children and youth who are facing abuse, neglect or family disruption. #e event raised more than $6,000 for the group. While the party was a success and the remodeled store was at last in an operational state, "nal embellishments to the

location remained incomplete through winter. A green glass Rolex-logo wall was planned for installation in February 2012. In addition, a large-scale Cartier display was in the works for March 2012. Another exciting installation is scheduled for this spring as well. Tivol is preparing an exhibit about its 102-year his-tory, complete with photos of family members, key events and occurrences throughout the decades. #e exhibit will serve as an art piece on a south wall within the store. Fittingly, the display case below it will house Tivol Private Label jewelry, with many designs based on company founder Charles Tivol’s work. #ose speci"c items, known as the Tivol Heritage Col-lection, will feature a brand stamp with the original Tivol logo on them rather than today’s version. In the meantime, with the hardest part over and with much of the chaos subsiding, Behnke can "nally begin to relax. From his glass-walled o!ce, he looks out over the fresh, bright store. He smiles. #en he adds, “I hope it’s another 17 years before I have to go through this again.”

Above: An interior shot of the newly remodeled Tivol at Hawthorne Plaza. The just-installed green glass wall will feature a large, gold Rolex logo. Right: Harold Tivol, CEO Cathy Tivol and Hunter Tivol McGrath got their hands dirty during demolition of the old interior.

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Just Say Yes

Helping pop the question for 102 years

tivol.com 816.531.5800


Ranch. Between his connections and Peeper’s burgeoning reputation as a world-class boarding and training facility, the barn became home to more than 100 horses with owners from around the United States. The current client roster also includes a London-based artist who has created works for the British Monarchy, including Queen Elizabeth II. Today, the services at Peeper Ranch have evolved to include not only Morgan training and local boarding depart-ments, but also a breeding program, a lesson program (where gentle-natured Peeper horses are used to teach kids and inex-perienced adults how to ride), as well as an events department that has played host to numerous weddings and other special functions. The barn also operates a robust internship program for well-behaved youths who have good grades and positive attitudes. “The Peeper Way”—a demonstration of respect for the horses as well as a strong personal work ethic—is instilled in these individuals as they fill roles ranging from barn helpers to senior barn helpers, lesson program leaders and senior interns. In addition to its internship program, Peeper Ranch o!ers an enrichment opportunity that allows young people and other less-skilled riders to show on lesson horses in an academy practice competition. The Peep Show, as it is known, helps level the playing field for its participants, and, to Dawn’s knowledge, the show is unique to the Morgan circuit. Certain-ly, it is the only upscale o!-season event of its kind. Held in Hale Arena in Kansas City’s West Bottoms, The Peep Show is now in its third year and has already garnered national atten-tion. In 2011, the show had more than 130 participants. This year, the sta! expects to have even more entries. The Fires’ commitment to the proper stewardship of Peeper Ranch does not end with the nurturing of new riders, however. Environmentalism is important to the couple as well.

Much of the waste produced by the barn is recycled or com-posted, and in 2011, a massive installation of more than 500 solar panels was completed. The system generates almost half the electricity required to operate the facility while also signifi-cantly reducing its carbon footprint. “It was important to us to be eco-friendly,” Beers adds. “We wanted to demonstrate to other businesses in the commu-nity that this is possible.” After explaining The Peeper Way and the many initia-tives of the ranch, Dawn takes us on a tour of the stables and introduces us to some of her favorite horses. Along the way, we encounter several employees of various statuses and levels of responsibility. Each is greeted by Dawn in a warm and loving manner; it is clear that Peeper Ranch is a close-knit family of hardworking people who are joined in their shared passion for horses. Here, company hierarchy simply doesn’t matter; each job is equally important and has its own dignity. Toward the end of the tour, Dawn gets an especially large smile on her face and she opens a stall door labeled “Mat-tie.” Yes, the first horse that started the Morgan extravaganza for the Fire family is alive and well, and teaching new riders through Peeper’s lesson program. Now 16, the connection between master and beast is obvious. “Dawn’s still her favorite person,” Beers tells us. “They definitely love each other.” Outside, the cutting February winds of Kansas continue to gust, causing the barn’s support beams to intermittently groan in resistance. The sound is a sharp reminder of the winter day surrounding Peeper Ranch, which until now had been all but forgotten. Upon entry to this warm place, with its gorgeous décor and welcoming sta!, one can easily fail to remember that the bitter winds even exist.

A) Dawn Fire shows her champion Morgan, Erotic Dancer; B) Dawn gives some love to Total Addiction; C) Jaden Fire shows Harlan’s Star Material A)

B)

C)

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servicesAllison Marie Photography Briarcli! Dental Care Briarcli! Endodontics Burleson Orthodontics Eclektica Salon

Kansas City Art Institute-Northland Larissa’s Alterations and Dry Cleaning Rajeunir Medical SpaScott Fitness Sunflower Dermatology The Spa At Briarcli!


My heart was pounding as I handed my passport to the smartlydressed associate from Christie’s. Just a week before, I’d beenholding the “hottest ticket in town”—a prime 3 p.m. pass to

preview the world-renowned jewelry collection of Elizabeth Taylor. The entireChristie’s block was lined with stately private limos dropping off elegantlydressed “ladies who lunch,” no doubt fresh from nibbling on micro-vegetablesalads and savory soufflés at La Grenouille.

In addition to the magnificent jewels, what struck me as I perused thevarious lots at the preview was how many lives Elizabeth Taylor hadtouched. In every room of the seemingly endless exhibit, peoplepassionately discussed her movies, her personal style, her tremendousinfluence. Women well past their fashion prime whispered about how this1960s Pucci tunic or that 1970s Halston caftan had inspired their ownwardrobe choices. My personal connection with this incredible lady wasour shared astrological sign: Elizabeth Taylor was the archetype of Pisces’“soulful eyes” and tendency to be “in love with love.”

The cheerful Christie’s associate wished me luck as she handed me mypaddle—number 5217. I tried to calm my nerves as I mounted the stairs tothe James Christie room. Working my way through the television cameras,I settled into a fifth row seat right under the auctioneer. I took a cue fromthe “serious” bidders in the rows ahead of me and stayed focused on the

bidding board and the auctioneer in his lavender silk tie. I had carefully studied the catalogs, settling on two lots of Zodiac

pendants and a lot of two Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Love bracelets. I had beenconsidering a lot of aquamarines until I remembered that Liz was aFebruary Pisces, not a March one like me. Her vast amethyst collection—including mineral specimens—suddenly had meaning beyondcomplementing her violet eyes.

The night before, I’d witnessed the mounting frenzy at the sale of the“Legendary Jewels,” but I was certain there’d be less insanity for the“ordinary” jewels. In fact, I was quite confident that I’d be able to securea lot—perhaps even two. But such illusions evaporated by the time thebidding closed on the fifth lot of the day, a pair of Van Cleef & ArpelsPisces pendants on opera-length chains. I had researched the intrinsicvalue of the items, estimated a premium for their venerable provenanceand set what I thought were reasonable bidding limits. I realized I wassadly mistaken when I was outbid by $50,000!

As the auction progressed, prices skyrocketed and I was feeling increasinglydejected. By the time the hammer went down on the Cartier Love bracelets, theprice was $75,000 over my top bid. I left the auction to wander RockefellerCenter and reflect wistfully over my lost chance at Love (or at least the Lovebracelets) and the beauty, style and legend of a truly amazing woman.

LAST BID FOR LOVEAN ACTRESS, AN AUCTION, A YOUNG MAN’S DREAM… BY JOSEPH UNGOCO

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