A TOWNCALLED

CHANGEFABRICOF LIFE

LADY DIANA

Volume 06 Oct/Nov/Dec 2010

The definitive guide to the creative, holistic and

spiritual centre of Bali

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A TOWNCALLED

CHANGEFABRICOF LIFE

LADY DIANA

Volume 06 Oct/Nov/December 2010

The definitive guide to the creative, holistic and

spiritual centre of Bali

Born in Peliatan in 1925, Ibu Rai sold food throughout the 60s, creating an eatery whose food was recommended by many guide books to international travellers. In tribute to his mother’s courage and enterprise, her son Dewa Gede opened a namesake restaurant - Ibu Rai in 1986. Since then Ibu Rai’s has been serving natural and nutritious flavours using the freshest ingredients all served with an artistic flair and friendly service.“We hope you enjoy our food with the Taste of Asian Spices”.

7684

FICTIONTransit Fields.

OPEN MIKEUbud 2.0

45 JIWA JUICEA Case of Attachment.

70 OBSESSIONSFabric Of Life.

18 ARTBamboo Shadows.

26 SPOTLIGhTA Town Called Change.

16 FEATUREUang Kepeng.

37 ThE LISTInformation, columns, articles, The Map...oh my.

08 OUT OF ThE BOxParadise Lost.

12 FRONT UPNew and Noted.

70

18

53 RUNAWAYSGet Off Your Facebook.

66 SENSESTreasures.

Conformity, balance, harmony…these are the building blocks of community life in Bali. But what happens when reality interrupts the utopian ideal? By Terry Cox.

SITTING on the front verandah at 10am I’m visiting my old friends. Pak Agung had to leave for the airport at 3am. he’s very busy these days. It’s very quiet, hot but breezy. Over the nearby fence an eye-level branch is loaded with ripening mangoes. housedogs are lying somnolent by the row of potted plants. The fish tank inside the window is gently bubbling. Beauty is all around but, inside, Ibu is dying.

Two pembantu are in the back, one washing, one ironing. Ibu’s bedroom door is closed. The kitchen door is locked but the key is there and I unlock the door. One pembantu is studiously concentrating on the ironing. I break the heavy silence.

“Boleh saya tahu siapa namamu?” (What’s your name?)“Saya Putu.” (My name is Putu.)“Putu, apa Ibu tidur lagi?” (Putu, is Ibu sleeping again?)“Mungkin.” (Maybe.)End of exchange. Is this acceptance of the inevitable? It

seems more like denial all round. From my cultural stance it’s very hard to understand. The facts are that breast cancer was diagnosed some 18 months ago. Then there was surgery, radiotherapy, remission, further illness and then the decision not to continue with more orthodox treatment with its scant hope of success and prohibitive cost. So they’ve been relying on alternative healers of various kinds as the awful illness marches on. Some use prayer; others focus on the nutritional and physical. The latest treatment involves roasted rabbit which Ibu picked at for dinner last night. She is sallow and thin. Agung says she is depressed, fearful and cries a lot. Of course he is kind and caring but his main response is further immersion in what he knows best – his work. There’s the teaching directorship, the World Bank consultancy and the

assistantship to the Minister of Education with weekly trips to Jakarta on the first flight and back on the last, at midnight.

Three jobs! Yes, a good income is needed to pay off all the unsubsidized hospital treatment plus the ongoing family commitments like medical school fees for the youngest son. But it’s also the response to the even greater difficulty – the inability to cope with the social implications of family misfortune.

The community doesn’t cope either. Nobody comes to the house any more and Ibu is at home alone, fulltime. She couldn’t continue with her school teaching job and has ‘special leave of absence’ – more denial at the official level. Mostly she hides in the bedroom. There is no feeling of acknowledgment of the situation or, even less, any effort to make the remaining time in this world as comfortable as possible – as one would expect to happen in western culture.

The fact is that Balinese society only recognizes normality, a good fit into the colourful but quite rigid shape of entrenched custom and ritual. “Apa kabar?” “Baik, baik saja.” how are you? Fine – always fine. The culture encompasses all the after-death ceremonial – the elaborate cremation, the procession to the sea – but doesn’t acknowledge pre-departure from this world, least of all premature departure.

Why not, when a little human support would alleviate so much fear and suffering? Why not accept reality? Why does this otherwise sophisticated culture completely deny this stage of passage?

Perhaps the answer is that, in Bali as in most of Asia, reality means conformity. ‘We are rice’ not ‘I am a grain of rice’. And those who can’t conform are on their own, come what may.

Dance, music and stories from the Islands of SavuThreads of Life Gallery host two delightful evenings of Savu culture on the 6th and 7th of October in line with events from the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival at their gallery space on Jl. Kajeng. Working with weavers on Savu island, Threads of Life aims to sustain the traditional natural-dye weaving arts and the culture these unique people express. Enterprise that 'empowers women, weaving that supports diversity, art that conserves forests', the Threads of Life mission is a wonderfully noble one. Soirées start at 6.30pm.Tel: 972187 www.threadsoflife.com

Creatively JFF"Combining old and new materials, beliefs and cultures of East and West, the precious with the quirky to create something sublime, fantastical and very different. Transcending the ordinary is my passion." So states Jean Francois Fichot, creator of rare fine jewellery and objets d'art. his recently opened gallery on Jl. Raya Pengosekan (just up from ARMA Museum) is a testament to this statement and lovingly exhibits his unique creativity. Tel. 974652

Love is in the airCinta (Indonesian for love) Inn has opened its doors on Jl. Monkey Forest. This mid-priced hip sleepover option offers highly comfortable beds, iPod docking stations, flat screen Tv’s with DVD’s, perfect if all you want to do is cuddle up with that certain someone. Enjoy romantic dinners at Cinta Grill or late evening walks down to the Monkey Forest, this chic bed & breakfast is ideally located in the heart of Ubud. Rates are USD125 and include awesome breakfast choices from the Grill’s morning menu.Tel: 975 395 www.baligoodfood.com

Abstract realityArtists Wolfang Widmoser and Neal Adams, who found themselves sharing a beer, were soon sharing a dream and gallery space. Orgone Gallery on Jl. Raya Sanggingan, owned and curated by Ayu Komang Budrarti, is the only gallery in Ubud to showcase purely international artists. Widmoser, who paints ‘fantastic realism’, and Adams, whose brush leans towards depicting the environment - essentially light and trees to create realism and abstraction – imbibe the fine art gallery with the universal life force that inspires all painters: the force of Orgone. Located next door to Kalangan Spa, half way up the Tjampuhan hill.Tel: 081338756333

Bloomz on the VineWith bated breath and an empty wine glass, we at The Bud are eagerly anticipating the opening of Bloomz on the Vine, a wine bar cum bottle shop cum flower power venue. Located on the increasingly fashionable Jl. hanoman, this nouveau coin du boire is set to become an ‘oh so fabulous’ place to meet, greet, eat and sip on a glass of Bacchanalian delight. Tel. 780 2401 www.bl voomzflowers.com

The Glass Age Bali Wood Resort’s Art and Culture centre (Jl. Penestanan, Sayan) presents an exhibition of fine art glass by ‘The Five Elements’. Ron Seivertson, Regis Anchuelo, Francis Auboiron and Julien Espagne collaborate in a unique exhibition to showcase ‘Off hand’ hot glass masterpieces. As with anything malleable, each piece reflects the artists’ personalities, talent and inspirations. The exhibition displays sculpted and blown, life-size and accurate scale artifacts shaped by hand with various tools, techniques, momentum and gravity...and runs until December 29th. The Fine Art book titled The Glass Age, offering stunning images of each of these pieces at different stages of their creation, will be on sale throughout the exhibition. www.horizonglassworks.com

WWW.SUSIJOHNSTON.COM WWW.MACANTIDUR.COM

indigenous arts

antiques

ethnographica

fine art textiles

“ t h e s l e e p i n g t i g e r ”On Upper MOnKeY FOrest rOAD - UBUD - tel 977121

macaN tiDur

feature

Stephen DeMeulenaere explores Bali’s once widely used currency of Chinese Money, now a largely spiritual symbol of simpler times.

WE see it in the old black and white films of the 1930s, the dances on the dirt pavement of the field, bright sun on oiled skin, the marketplace full of bare-breasted women, the time before the full unification of Indonesia under one national government and one national currency…uang kepeng or ‘Chinese money’, Bali’s ancient and, until just 30 years ago, widely used domestic currency.

If you read the old books by Covarrubias, McPhee and others, you'll see references to the use of Chinese money as the currency of the marketplace and traditional government of Bali. Today you'll sometimes find fake coins on the ground, or see a string of real coins at a ceremony, or on an offering stand. You may have heard stories of the power of these coins, shaped as the symbol of Windu, the god of the void, which includes everything within it.

Uang kepeng, or pis bolong in Balinese, is known through the ancient lontar records to have circulated as a medium of exchange since at least 900AD, and only ceased to be used for local purchases in the early 1970s.

Up until that time, the Balinese could use the distinctive coins in many ways, from buying meat and vegetables in the market or snacks in front of school, to watching movies with friends at an outdoor theatre – anything involving the exchange of basic needs.

Tjokorda Raka Kerthyasa, as with all Balinese, grew up being able to use uang kepeng. A faint smile spreads across his face as he recalls the Ubud of the 1950s. "When I was a child, I could still buy bubur with some kepeng that my mother gave me."

People needed the coins for ceremonies, so they were willing to trade their goods and services for the currency. Kepeng were the coins of the people. At the same time, other currencies circulated for different purposes: ringgit for regional goods and Dutch coins for produce imported from far away, as well as a few other coins of differing nationalities.

Most Balinese over 35 recall their parents giving them allowances in the form of kepeng. Older adults remember their banjar, the ancient democratic traditional government, imposing fines payable in the ancient coins for failure to abide by village rules or attend meetings on time. Others, particularly women, remember using the currency to buy nearly all of their families’ daily needs in the marketplace. But regardless of age or gender, every Balinese knows uang kepeng as a medium of hindu religious ceremony.

The existence of Chinese Tang Dynasty coins (618-907AD)(and the circulation of Vietnamese coins brought by the Dong Son culture of Vietnam to Bali in the 4th century AD), suggests a much earlier date of introduction of the currency. Being rich in natural resources, the Balinese were very active traders throughout the region, and huge sums flowed into Bali.

Throughout history, uang kepeng was extremely important to the Balinese people, touching on all aspects of their lives – cultural,

religious, social, political and economic. Today, the valuation of kepeng is only related to cultural uses in the arts and religion, while the social, political and economic aspects have withered with the rise of the Rupiah. however it remains alive in language.

The Balinese counting system is directly connected to kepeng. The word for 50, seket, comes from se (one) and ikat (to tie something together). This is derived from the word for 25, selae; thus a seket is two bundles of selae that have been tied together. The word for 75, telung, means three bundles of selae that have been tied together. Kepeng is therefore closely connected to the Balinese concept of mathematics and economy.

Colin McPhee describes how uang kepeng was central to the banjar: “Long before the feast, the elders met to determine the number of offerings, the scale of expenditures. They sat in a circle at the crossroads, answering in turn as their name was read out by the Klian Banjar [the elected head of the local traditional government]. Tiang! I! [someone would shout]. This word had a second and not unrelated meaning, for it also meant ‘pillar of a building’, an upright post that supported the roof. When a silence fell after a name, the Klian scratched a marginal note with his knife in his palm-leaf book: fined 10 kepengs for absence.”

Uang kepeng also gave women one of the most important roles to play in society. As Miguel Covarrubias wrote: “The women are the financiers that control the market; one seldom sees men in it, except in certain trades or to help carry such a load as a fat pig. Even the money changers are women, who sit behind little tables filled with rolls of small change, kepeng, Chinese brass coins with a hole in the middle.”

In the same way, uang kepeng protected Balinese society from penetration by foreign money, either through trade or tourism. Foreign money did not affect the local economy or behaviour of the people, and people could choose to participate in both economies, they were not forced to choose between them.

After Indonesian independence in 1947, and even after the passing of monetary laws in 1951 that made the Rupiah the sole currency of Indonesia, uang kepeng continued to circulate as a complementary convertible medium for the exchanging of local goods and services to meet local needs until the early 1970s.

One would think that if a money existed in such a huge supply that it wouldn't be worth anything at all. The Balinese, and many other cultures that used anything from shells to leaves to beads as a currency, learned ways to limit the money supply. In Bali, this was done by using them in offerings and in the production of grand statues and other objects of admiration, thus ensuring their value remained stable. It’s a keen reminder of Bali’s past and the continuing sense of community and practicality that still exists, to a large degree, outside the norms of an increasingly homogenised world.

Andrew Hall meets the face behind the brush that is Neal Adams.

art

art

Artist Neal Adams.

NEAL Adams’ slightly jowly face is jolly – perpetually on the verge of a laugh or, at least, a big old grin. he’s a Londoner through and through, hailing from near Wimbledon. his quasi-Cockney accent crackles as he talks about how he moved from England to Bali, got married to the lovely Ayu, and had two kids, James and Ethan.

Neal’s a dab hand with an artist’s brush.his journey from Old Blighty to Bali, and on to Ubud is

reminiscent of many. An initial foray in the guise of a holiday. Then another. And another. And finally…

“Bugger it, I’m moving.”he felt pulled by the creativity of Bali’s people. The hustle and

bustle of life on the streets. The visual domain. he reckoned he could put his creative juices into overdrive in bucolic surrounds that played in his head. Played with his head.

As a youngster, Neal felt drawn to the world of painting and haunted London’s museums of art at every opportunity. he was especially inspired by Turner’s ethereal landscapes. At 17 he was selling to tourists in the city’s art markets. Made a few squid, he did.

he joined the printing industry at an early age – did all the right things; even bought a house. Until the lure of Bali became too alluring to resist. he sold up, packed everything he had left in one suitcase and hopped on a plane. That was 2003.

Neal took some time to blot Bali. To assimilate its quirks and quandaries. he spent a lot of time checking out nature. he looked at trees in the context of spiritual entity.

“Trees are not just trees,” he says, “bamboo isn’t just bamboo.”

“They are inherent parts of the psyche. Parts that I am driven to interpret in their purest form and to try to draw out in the nature of their abstractions.”

Neal spent a couple of years developing a style reminiscent of Gustav Klimpt – using metallic leaf (gold and silver) to accent light and movement. But Neal took the process several steps further. As he puts it:

“The leaf provides the light in my paintings – the layering acts to furnish a depth that cannot really be achieved in any other way. It is also a metaphor for the precious places our minds turn

to when we think of what exists around us.”I have a photograph of a woman I once knew sitting in front

of one of Neal’s landscapes. She looks, for all the world, to be placed in a magical wood that has a wonderful perspective. An early morning scene that glitters and twinkles with an impish humour.

It brings to mind the words of a favourite song:

Will you stay with me, will you be my love,Among the fields of barley – which I always think of as Bali,And you can tell the sun in his jealous sky,When we walked in fields of gold…

Neal Adams, however, gets frustrated with what he sees as an incessant sales-orientation of “art”. It’s not something that just exists to be sold, he says. It is a vitally important part of the way we – that is, all of us – relate to the world around us.

“From the earliest cave paintings to the masterpieces of da Vinci, Michaelangelo, and others, it’s something that people have needed to do. To say that I was here. Kind of a grand grafitto.

“In a way it’s no different from making bread, really. We all need to eat. We find our innate humanity in the various forms of art we see around us on a daily basis: architecture, sculpture, painting. It’s a way of expression that can draw us closer to each other. At the very least it gives us something to talk about.”

If you get into a discussion about what his art means to Neal, be prepared to spend many hours. And know your stuff. he does. he’s a keen student of art history. he’s a knowledgeable observer of current trends and tendencies.

One of Neal’s paintings of a teak tree takes pride-of-place in my house. A piece I look at every day. A piece that makes my place sing. A piece that brings an ambience I couldn’t have found anywhere else. I like it a lot.

So check out what this talented young man can do. You’ll be impressed too.

Neal's work can be viewed at Orgone Gallery, Jl. Sanggingan, Ubud, not far from Mozaic Restaurant.

art

art

Carlos de la Rua turns his lens on Shanghai, city of lusty skyscrapers and public toilets without doors. There he discovers a megacity enveloped by turmoil, and one with a surprising similarity to a small island not a thousand miles away from our own humble home.

spOtlight

spOtlight

Carlos, your images of Shanghai seem to reflect the kind of process that we see in Bali so often now...the changing face of a culture. How would you describe these changes and how do they relate to Bali and other parts of the world?It’s true, these changes are not being faced only in Bali, or even just in Shanghai, but all around the world. We are all experiencing how life is going so fast that for many of us it’s simply impossible to get on the high speed train, while others don't even look back to tradition and history. The question is, do we all have to dance the same song, the song that the society is imposing? I believe there’s no future without a past, and historical culture is not simply part of our personality, for good or bad, but an important point of reference to improve our attitudes or to rectify them. To me what is important is not to lose that perspective in terms of how to face the future, and what I have seen in Shanghai is that the city is getting so modern so fast that the ancient traditions and architectural heritage have almost disappeared, giving way to huge skyscrapers. One of the visual aspects that attracted me was how the locals have always dressed on the streets in the traditional pyjamas. For me, it is a way of connecting home and street. But now the government is ’inviting’ its citizens not to wear them on the streets as it is giving a poor and unfashionable image to the city. Apparently good image, which is not even written, is against cultural tradition. At the end the East is trying to copy the Western way of living, forgetting its own identity. We all have seen images of Balinese women wearing only a sarong, and experienced how the authorities are classifying that as pornography. Should we then label as ‘pornographers’ all the ladies that years ago were only wearing a sarong? I don’t think so.Do you think this change is for the better, or worse in Shanghai?Well, it depends on which side of the court you are. The slogan of the recent Expo is "Better City, Better Life". For those who are on the top, making a huge amount of wealth and power, I guess it’s good. But for those who are on the

other side, those who have to work hard in very difficult conditions to make the rich richer, I guess it is not that good. People here are being kicked out of houses where they have been living for generations, leaving the space free to build a new empire. Some will win while others will lose completely. What is true is that the Chinese love their country and their sense of patriotism and pride for the country has no space for discussion. On the other side it reminds me of Indonesia or Bali, where many local immigrants move from the original islands to offer their labour power for the Balinese dream. There's a clash of cultures going on there that is evident in the work...You are right, and sometimes it is overwhelming. Shanghai as a megacity would not have been possible without thousands of workers coming from other provinces. And you can see them still, for example, in the subway, where you can find any human specimen. From construction workers wearing their helmets to the very fancy and stylish lady listening to music on her iPod. Or in the streets, where the expensive and latest models of cars share the streets with the traditional bicycles, or a homeless person collecting garbage in front of a "Lolex" (Rolex) fancy clock shop. It sounds familiar to Bali too. The theatre is very similar, but set in a different scene.What category would you put these photographs into?This type of work has been the origin of photography for more than a century. It has been defined as social documentary photography, trying to represent and understand people’s ways of acting and their behaviours. It’s an invitation to think about our own world, learning about ourselves through other people’s lives. You cannot do in a studio what the street offers you. To stop time at a very specific moment when feelings and emotions reveal themselves; only daily life can represent that, from hate to love, from beauty to ugly, from lightness to darkness. And it happens everywhere, emotions are spread all around the world. What has been the reaction of people when you take their photograph there?

spOtlight

The Chinese don't smile like the Balinese, not at all, in fact they can be very rude and aggressive as they believe that you take part of their soul while shooting. I remember being in a suburb where a part of the old Shanghai was being demolished. Many locals were moving and taking their last belongings when a woman riding the traditional wagon (a bicycle with a trolley behind), was coming towards me when I, of course, put her in my view finder. But when she showed me she was holding a wooden stick with a metallic hook at the end, and her shouts and the movement of the 'weapon', I instantly understood that I was not welcome. After putting down the camera she left me still shouting like crazy, while I sent her back a big smile. What else can you do in these situations?What's your process in taking these shots? Do you plan, or are you just wandering the streets at random?Sometimes going to certain areas I have heard about, but generally it’s just a question of walk after walk. It depends a lot on the situations, but you have to be alert, eyes wide open to what is happening and what is going to happen. These are to me magical moments. You totally forget about yourself, trying to guess or expect what that someone is going to do, sometimes maybe not, but surely it is going to be surprising and worth photographing. It’s a surprise factor many times, sometimes it happens the way you want but sometimes it’s just the opposite, but always surprising. That’s for me what makes documental photography so special.What do you look for in a shot?Uff, sometimes what I’m looking for doesn’t happen and sometimes I couldn’t even imagine what does. It’s true that I basically shoot for myself, so I have to recognise that

many times it is a personal and subjective meaning that I’m looking for, but it’s important to respect the subject, take the personality without been disrespectful, try to capture the essence of feelings and behaviours. It’s a communion between photographer and subject, but after that it’s the spectator who is going to view the image who has to interpret their own perceptions, then process what the subject is saying and what I am trying to say. When you close the triangle...subject, camera and spectator...then that is what a good photo is for me.What's the strangest thing you have seen or experienced in Shanghai for this project?People. Most of the people shout, a lot. There must be a genetic audio disorder going on there. And in the subway, it’s not like public transport... it’s a battlefield. Let the people get out and then you can get in...right? Well, it’s just the opposite here. Survival of the fittest. Step on you before you step on me. When shooting at a construction site after lunch, some of the workers took some minutes off for a short siesta. The manager saw me taking pictures of the guys while sleeping, so he woke them up with a couple of generous shouts. I felt horrible being responsible for that. But what really surprised me were the couples, man and man, woman and woman, and man and woman, who dressed practically the same. I don’t know, maybe it’s a new fashion trend or ’buy one get one free’, I really don’t know. Maybe it’s ’I am as pretty as you are or you are as pretty as I am...’ One shocking experience occurred when I had an emergency and I had to run into a public toilet. There I saw guys sitting on the toilets as if watching TV. And I saw them not because they didn’t close the doors, but because there were no doors. Amazing.

spOtlight

What outlets do you have for your work?The artistic work is more focused on private collectors and for interior design purposes, like villas, hotels etc. I use to print in large format and this kind of work is perfect for decoration. The outlets that I have for the documental work is basically for magazines.Do you have an agent?"And I still, haven't found, what I'm looking for..." – U2.Who buys your work?People who fall in love with it. I’m aware if I were playing hip-hop instead of Mozart that I would be exposed to a much wider audience. It really doesn’t worry me too much, although Mozart also had to pay the bills. As long as you do your work with integrity and dedication, everything else will come along. For me it’s more important to be honest with myself instead of simply trying to make money. Carlos, thanks for your time.Thanks to you, it has been a pleasure.

www.carlosdelarua.com

spOtlight

Only Now

only nowdo i learnto smell your rhythmbreathe your flamei am a puppeton your eyestringsa delicacy at your luncheonsmorgasborgasma hunting rhinoin your bellya single dew dropsuspended from your quivering leafI am a pin prickof light fading awayfaster, fasterinto the infinityof night Paul hewlett.

Birds & Bees • Out & About • Homestays • Festivals • Galleries • EcoIllustrations in The List by Captain Freddie. Columnist Victor Mason is on his hols.

The definitive guide to our thoughts, tastes and tributes to Ubud and surrounds.

theLISTOctober, November, December 2010

Alphabetical musings, meanderings and more from The Bud team...

AADVENTURE

Bali Adventure Tours Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur.Tel: 0361-721480.Map Ref: C.2 (Rafting)www.baliadventuretours.com. Long-established Bali adventure tours operator with activities ranging from river kayaking, white water rafting, jungle trekking and mountain cycling, as well as the Bali Elephant Safari Park at Taro (see entry under Wildlife).

Bali Bird Park & Rimba ReptilJl. Singapadu, Batu Bulan.Tel: 0361-299352.www.bali-bird-park.comWith over 1,000 birds and 250 different species, walk through an avian rainforest, catch a film at the 4D avian theatre and top that off with a reptilian experience of dragon proportions at Rimba Reptil.

Bali Bird Walks Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975009. www.balibirdwalk.com Join Su-made (and if you’re lucky the one-and-only Victor Mason) on a well-informed and delightful bird walk around the Campuhan hills.

Sobek Bina Utama Jl. Raya Tebongkang No. 33 Ubud. Tel: 0361-287059. www.balisobek.com Map Ref: B.3Established in 1989, Sobek

Bina Utama was the first adventure tour company of its kind on the island and continues to offer excellent rafting, cycling and eco trail tours in Bali.

ANTIQUES

Gallery Macan Tidur Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur.comMap Ref: L.7Respected dealer in tribal art, antiquities, ornaments and texiles, Macan Tidur is often cited as ‘the best shop in Bali’. Clients include collectors, architects, hotels and museums.

Kusia Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan No. 99x, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973113. Fascinating and long-established shop dealing with Balinese cultural artifacts.

The Shop SayanJl. Raya Sayan No. 52, Br Kutuh Tel: 0361- 973508www.ShopatTheShop.comMap Ref: C.3 With a 15th century reclining Bhudda marble statue as the ‘piece d resistance’ the artefacts, antiques and relics at The Shop have been

knowledgeably hand-sourced from around the region.

ARAK Noun: arrack |arak; arak| |arak| |arøk| |arak| (also arak). An alcoholic liquor typically distilled from the sap of the coconut palm or from rice. Clear and colourless with a sharp biting taste, arak in Bali is a distillation of tuak, produced by fermenting the sap of the flower bud of any of a number of species of palm. Origin early 17th cent.: from Arabic araq ‘sweat’, from the phrase arak al-tamr, denoting an alcoholic spirit made from dates.

ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS

3 Brothers + 1 Jl. Raya Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0813 3874 5650. The Balinese artist family of Nyoman Budiarta, Ketut Budiarsa, Wayan Piadnya and Made Budiana, stands together as an inspiring lesson in the power of art to heal and overcome limitations.

Adi`s Art Studio & Gallery. Jl. Bisma 102, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977104. Featuring an eclectic mix of sculptures, paintings and readymade objets d’art by artist Adi Bachmann and a number of talented Balinese artists.

Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima, Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-974228. www.armamuseum.com One of the most distinguished museums in Bali, ARMA exhibits work by many of the island’s celebrated names including Spies, Bonnet,

hofker and Affandi. Open daily from 9am to 6pm, except holidays.Map Ref: x.10

Agung Rai Fine Art Gallery Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975449, 974562. www.agungraigallery.com Map Ref: U.13Selected works of fine art picked by owner Agung Rai for what he describes as a “spiritual connection he feels between a painting and himself”. Open daily from 9am to 6pm.

Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975502. www.blancomuseum.com Dedicated to the life and work of the late Filippino artist Antonio Blanco (and curated by his artistic son Mario), this intriguing museum space includes the artist’s original studio, gardens, aviaries and family temple. Open daily from 9am to 5pm.

Gaya ArtSpace Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-979252. www.gayafusion.com high concept space offering major exhibitions by both international and local artists featuring contemporary art, paintings, performance, installations and sculptures.

Genta Gallery Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No1, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978272.www.museumrudana.com/gentagallery International art collectors, painters, performers and travellers alike acclaim Genta’s fine art collection.

Part of the Museum Rudana art empire.

Hanna Art Space Jl Raya Pengosekan, Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978216. With an accent on artists from Surabaya, hanna Art Space intends to uncover the ‘underdog’ of art by bringing new and creative art to the visual forefront of Ubud’s gallery walls.

Han Snel GalleryJl Kajeng, UbudTel: 0361 975 699, 974 271 .Fax: 0361 975 643www.hansnelbungalow.comView the works of one of Indonesia’s most celebrated foreign artists...han Snel., lovingly run by his widow Siti. The han Snel Gallery is located in the grounds of the bungalow complex opened by the artist.

Komaneka Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-976090. www.gallery.komaneka.comMap Ref: P.7Komaneka Fine Art Gallery features unique work by young Indonesian and overseas artists with ‘vision’ and an accent on kontemporer. It was built in 1996 with the aim of sharing the experience of living with art. Young contemporary artists exhibit their canvases and installations to those who stay at the resort and those who pop in or walk by the gallery. Keep an eye out for it as you walk towards Ubud palace on the right-hand side of Monkey Forest road.

Museum Neka Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975074. www.museumneka.com One of Ubud’s oldest and best established galleries, Neka Museum features all the greats from Ubud’s artworld in a traditional Balinese setting with a fabulous ravine view. Open daily 8am to 5pm except holidays.

Museum Puri Lukisan Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975136. www.museumpurilukisan.com Bali’s first museum features exquisite examples of Balinese art styles in drawing, painting and wood carving. Museum Puri Lukisan was established

in 1954 and boasts among its past curators the artist Rudolf Bonnet. Open daily 8am to 4pm except holidays.

Museum Rudana Jln. Cok Rai Pudak no.44 Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975779. www.museumrudana.com Museum Rudana boasts an excellent collection of Balinese and other Indonesian fine arts by the likes of I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, Affandi, Supono and Antonio Blanco in an elaborate new gallery that stands in its own grounds. Open Mon-Sat 9am to 5pm and on Sundays from midday to 5pm.

Nyoman Sumerta Fine Art Gallery Banjar Teges, Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975267. www.sumerta-gallery.com highlights the richness of ideas and imagination of Indonesian artists with an emphasis on local Balinese painting.

Oracle Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978611. www.sculpturebyfilippos.comMap Ref: B.4The gallery of Greek sculptor and Ubud resident Filippos, Oracle is an artist’s dreamscape inspired by the creative imaginings of one of Ubud’s most flamboyant sculptors.

Pranoto’s Art Gallery Jl. Tirta Tawar No. 34, Kutuh Kelod, Ubud. Tel: 0361-970827. www.age.jp/~pranoto Pranoto’s Art Gallery is a lively, active place in the heart of the Bali arts community. hosts life-drawing model sessions, exhibitions and a large fine art collection of paintings by Indonesian and international artists.

Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women Jl. Sriwidari 2B, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975485. www.seniwatigallery.com Seniwati supports and showcases more than 70 female artists with a wide variety of styles and also houses a shop for and about women, from where you can buy crafts, some of them by artists who exhibit in the gallery.

Sika Contemporary Art Gallery Jln. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975727/975084. www.sikagallery.info Artist curator I. Wayan Sika and his contemporaries of the Sanggar Dewata Artist Association, seek to push the visual arts envelope at this gallery, which condemns modem commercial art as “too sweet, like candy”.

Symon Studios Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. www.symonstudios.com A Campuhan landmark for over a quarter century, Symon’s somewhat rakish Ubud Studio is the original Art Zoo. The artist has lived in Bali since 1978 and is best known for his bold portraits of sensual young Balinese men.

Tanah ThoJl. Raya Lodtunduh Ubud.Tel: 981 482 www.tanahtho.comOwned and curated by Dewa Gede Putrawan, owner of the popular Ibu Rai Restaurant, Tanah Toh Art Studio was built with passion and with the aim of bringing art enthusiasts and artists into a single community. The gallery showcases pieces of great energy, spirit and highlight the dynamic relationship between the artist and the canvas.

TonyRaka Art Gallery Jln. Raya Mas No. 86, Ubud. Tel: 0361-7816785. www.tonyrakaartgallery.comOne of Ubud’s prominent art galleries – and art characters – is Tony Raka. Respected by artists and collectors alike, he is an enthusiastic promoter of contemporary Balinese and Indonesian art. Tony Raka’s

is a gallery for people who like the questions art poses. Apart from a large modern building where the permanent collection hangs, there is a vast Balinese pavilion for temporary exhibitions and a new exhibition building.Both the gallery and the gardens, festooned with orchids, are well worth a visit.

W. Gallery Jl.Bisma #3, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977978.pkaler@dps.centrin.net.id Art for conservation. The W. Gallery was established in July 2007 as an effort to raise money for conservation through artwork. The gallery hosts local Balinese artists who have committed to donating a percentage of every sale to support the work of FNPF.

BBARS

Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Map Ref: I.7Since its lavish revamp from a humble eatery to a posh bar and dining experience fitting the likes of Beverly hills, Ary’s Warung has been the place to be seen in central Ubud. The menu is mod-Australian inspired – that is, fresh produce, the best of meats, and simple preparation. Food aside, this is also a great bar with an open-plan atmosphere and tasteful design. The service, food and drinks are all good – it’s also a great meeting point in the

centre of Ubud, anytime of the day.

Bar LunaJl. GootamaTel: 0361-971832Map Ref: L8Wander down (or up) one of Ubud's quaintest streets and drop into Bar Luna for an exotic breakfast or a very chilled glass of wine. Definitely one of our favourite

secret hangouts. Lterary Evenings are a educational-must on the last Thursdays of every month. Café Des ArtistesJl. Bisma 9x, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972706 .www.cafedesartistesbali.comMap Ref: K4Pop in anytime, after 10.30 in the morning, for mocktails or cocktails, Smirnoff or Sambucca. Cafe des Artistes also has an extensive wine list and is open until midnight. One of Ubud’s popular yet quietly romantic eating and

drinking venues, now serving original Belgium beer.

Coffee & Silver Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975354. Map Ref: Q.6One of the most popular drop-in and come-as-you-please restaurant bars in Ubud. Based at the bottom of the Monkey Forest hill it is perfectly placed to quench that thirst before the stroll up the three in one.

Flava Lounge Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel. 0361-972953. www.flavaloungebali.com Young, hip and urban (or as urban as one can be in Ubud) yet with a holistic feel. Comfy seating, shisha pipes and free WiFi that mixes well with the juices, the cocktails and café style menu.

Han Snel Restaurant & BarJl. Kajeng, Ubud.Tel: 0361 8410505www.hansnelrestaurantcomA horseshoe-shaped counter here gives the bar and restaurant at han Snel Gallery a distinctly convivial atmosphere...it's easy to imagine the late artist han Snel himself sitting here drinking Bintang and regaling all-comers with tales from his past. Located half way down Jalan Kajeng on the left.

Jati Bar The Four Seasons Sayan Jl. Raya Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-977577. www.fourseasons.com/sayan Sophistication is the name of the game here (unsurprisingly given the Four Seasons brand). Perched atop the breathtaking Sayan Ridge, the vibe is mystically romantic. World-class views and flavours.

Jazz Café Jl. Sukma # 2, Tebesaya, Ubud. Tel: 0361-976594. www.jazzcafebali.comMap Ref: M12A true Ubud classic that hosts local and international jazz stars, along with great bar snacks and full menu. Live music nightly except Mondays, 7.30pm until 10.30pm.

Mozaic – The Lounge Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Telp: 975768info@mozaic-bali.comwww.mozaic-bali.comMap ref: B.3A welcome addition to Mozaic’s award-winning restaurant oasis, The Lounge offers sublime cocktails and jazzy ambience. A taste of the future with excellence on all levels, this is a discerning and stylish atmosphere with a range of drinks fitting for one

BANJAR Noun ( pl. -jar) Balinese neighbourhood association that plans, organises and executes the great majority of activities that make up Balinese life. Every Balinese belongs to a banjar, which has from one hundred to several hundred members. Each banjar has a meeting hall, the bale banjar, which is always divided into three parts: the banjar temple, the secular meeting place, and the kitchen. The death of any member of a banjar makes it obligatory for all male members of the banjar to show up immediately, spend every night at the house of the deceased, prepare various temporary structures for the death ceremonies and burial, wash the body, carry it to the cemetery and help with the burial. Banjars often have gotong royong, or work gangs, called upon to repair the bale banjar, clean the streets, build a road or plant trees.

of Bali’s best fine dining spots (see Mozaic’s entry under Restaurants). There’s also a piano in the corner, should you feel like getting on the ivories, but be warned – the cocktails are quality standard and likely to promote over-exuberance. The manager is a chap called Rakesh, a man possessed of devilishy suave sub continental aplomb.

Naughty Nuri’s Jl. Raya Sanggingan, opposite Neka Museum. Tel: 0361-977547. Another longtime Ubud institution – the marriage of Ubud and New York sensibilities à la Brian and Nuri – Naughty Nuri’s serves mean, brimming Martinis, gargantuan Bloody Mary’s and home-cooked food, all in an open, road-side grille. Famous for its ribs (See entry under Restaurants).

Ozigo Jl. Sanggingan, Ubud, Next to Nuri’s Nacho Mama. www.ozigobarubud.blogspot.comWhen you’re pissed enough on Brian’s Martinis, join the fun-loving mix of great live cover bands and DJs as they lead you in to the late night! Suspiciously large and colourful drinks.

Terazzo Jl. Suweta, Ubud Tel: 0361-978941. A stylish and somewhat famous spot in town for savvy cocktails with superb finger-food and full menu. Great music and atmosphere.

BOOK SHOPS

Ganesha Book Shop Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-970320. www.ganeshabooksbali.com A veritable treasure chest of second-hand books and beautiful weighty ones of

the coffee table variety. You can also find magazines, bestsellers and postcards here.

Periplus Jl. Raya Ubud & Bintang Supermarket, Campuhan and Monkey Forest Rd. www.peripluseditions.co.id Ubiquitous chain bookstore-cum-cafe stocking hundreds of titles on Bali and beyond. Buy your take-home copy of The Bud and The Yak here.

BOutiqueS

BiasaJl. Raya SangginganTel: 0361-8878002Map Ref: B3Stylish nomads dress in Biasa. One of Bali's top labels for cotton and linen fashion just opened an outlet in Ubud (near Naughty Nuri's) with their unique and recognizable cut and design. Comfortable, flowing and in a range of soft, contemporary colours Biasa-wear is ideal to move elegantly around the hills in.

DandelionUbud Main Street 18Tel: 0361-978085Map Ref: K.10A boutique for the heir and spare. Delightful children's wear from the ever-popular and ever-expanding Dandelion.This petite boutique will outfit the under 9s in ultra-chic elegant (boutique for boys and girls) thankfully age appropriate day wear

Divya Boutique35 Ubud Main StreetTel: 0361-977169 Fax: 975115Map Ref: K.10Exquisite handmade batik shop incorporating both traditional and modern designs into cotton, silk and canvas textiles. All dresses,

sarongs, shirts and scarves at Divya – which is part of Nomad Restaurant on Ubud Main Street – are individually hand made using the ‘batik tulis’ process, which means patterns are hand-drawn and painted. Prices range from $70 to $180. Each piece is entirely original – no mass produced cottons here.

BOtANiC GARDeNS

Botanical Gardens at Elephant Safari Park TaroBali Adventure Tours, Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur.Tel: 0361-721480.www.baliadventuretours.comThis park is not just about elephants – throughout this 3.5 hectare wildlife haven are myriad indigenous plant species and a fabulous orchid display.

Botanic Gardens Ubud Kutuh Kaja, Ubud.Tel: 0361-7463389. www.botanicgardenbali.com Situated at an elevation of between 320 and 400 metres above sea level, the Botanic Gardens Ubud offers a range of micro-climates including ravine, hillside, meadow, a river, waterfalls and natural forest on a vast six hectare property.

CALENDARS: To the outsider, the Balinese calendar of worship can appear startlingly complex, comprising, as it does, both a lunar calendar – each month starting on the day after a new moon, with the full moon occurring in the middle – and a 210-day ritual cycle. The lunar calendar is based on that used in parts of India and numbered from the founding of the Indian Saka Dynasty in AD 78, so that the year 1900 in Bali began in 1979. The 210-day pawukon cycle is indigenous to Bali, however, and differs from other calendars in that its dates are not measured as years, perhaps because it has its roots in the growing period for rice. The pawukon cycle is subdivided yet again into a number of shorter cycles, which run concurrently. These comprise a number of three, five and seven day “weeks” which have no correlation to conventional time but are used to determine holy days. Each day is said to have its own god, constellation and omen indicating good or bad times for activities ranging from construction to cremation.

CCAViAR & CHAMPAGNe

MozaicJl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Telp: 975768www.mozaic-bali.comMap ref: B.3Caviar menu and Champagne menu available, indulge your tastebud with the Caspian Sevruga Caviar and Iranian Imperial Oestra Caviar and Champagne at the Lounge of Mozaic.

COCKFIGHTINGCockfighting|käk faiti ng | noun | Balinese ‘Tajen’ | The sport (banned in 1981 in Indonesia except for three rounds permitted prior to temple ceremonies) of setting two cocks to fight each other. Fighting cocks often have their legs fitted with sharpened metal spurs. A cockfight is not only allowed at every Balinese temple festival, it is required. The blood is an offering to the hungry forces of evil.

COOKiNG CLASSeS

Bumbu Bali Restaurant Jl. Suweta No. 1, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974217. www.bumbubaliresto.com half-day cooking programs with Balinese chefs teaching a wide variety of traditional island food.

Beduur RestaurantUbud hanging Gardens, Desa Buahan, Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens.com Part nature walk, part culinary experience. Walk along the

Ayung River and up to a village where the locals grow spices and vegetables. Then come to what is described as the hotel’s ‘indigenous outdoor kitchen’, located amongst the rice fields.The chef will inform and guide you through the creation of three traditional recipes (which will also be yuor lunch!) A gentle wander back

to the hotel grounds with views of Mount Batukaru is as much of a gift as the recipes you created that day.

Casa Luna Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-977409. www.casalunabali.com Map Ref: J.6Join Casa Luna’s own Janet De Neefe and team and discover the exotic spices and ingredients of Balinese food. Explore cooking techniques, alternative ingredients and fascinating kitchen myths of this unique culture. Each session includes a lavish Balinese feast with complete class notes. Guests of the honeymoon Guesthouses receive a 10% discount on all cooking classes.

Mozaic Restaurant Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Telp: 975768info@mozaic-bali.comwww.mozaic-bali.comMap ref: B.3So not your average cooking

class! Award-winning chef Chris Salans (think Table du Monde) will invite you into his ultra-modern Miele kitchen where you can choose to take a workshop that will enhance your culinary craft in either local or Mozaic-style cuisine. The Workshop space is also open to Chef’s dinners and private cocktail parties.

Kupu Kupu BarongKedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975478. www.kupubarongubud.com Map Ref: A.2Balinese cooking secrets revealed in one of Ubud’s most charming resorts. Learn to cook a classic three-course Balinese meal of Soto Udan, Pepes Ikan and Dadar Gulung which make up the delicious lunch to follow.

Maya UbudJl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: L.17In one easy hour, Maya Ubud’s master chefs will teach you five traditional Balinese dishes and then invite you for lunch. Take home a complimentary recipe book to continue your Balinese culinary education.

The Secret Garden Cooking School Penestanan Kaja, Ubud. Tel: 0361-979395. www.balisecretgarden.com One and two-day hands-on intensive courses will allow you to learn, understand and appreciate Balinese cooking at its best.

CLiNiCS

Prima Medika Hospital (Outpost)Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Mas, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972374. www.primamedika.comA hospital favoured among longtime expats, Prima Medika’s main facility is in Denpasar, approx 45 minutes by car. Open from 8am-8pm.

Sayan Aesthetic InstituteJl. Penestanan, Sayan, Ubud Tel: 0361-972648.www.aestheticbali.com Bali joins the rest of the world on the age reversal, rejuvenation and appearance optimization stage. Sayan Aesthetic Institute, an Australian-developed aesthetic clinic located on the stunning grounds of a luxury resort in Sayan, offers all visitors to Bali the complete range of one visit procedures. Also on the beauty enhancement side, the high-tech dental studio is a must. CEREC from SIRONA Germany is a world leader in beautiful, resorative dentistry and most procedures can be done in one visit. Compare the cost of treatments in other Asia Pacific destinations and you will find yourself pleasantly surprised.

CRAFTS

IndigoJl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Tel: 0361-7810631. www.indigobali.com Art and artifacts, natural dye batiks & ikats, handcrafted, earth-conscious clothing, jewelry, gifts, furniture and home accessories.

the list

the list

Macan Tidur GalleryPuri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur.comMap Ref: L.6Whilst one half of Macan Tidur (otherwise known as Sleeping Tiger) is for exquisite antiques, the other half supports local craftsmen to continue their creative traditions whilst also supporting innovations. One of Bali’s best places to buy unique pieces for gifts or interiors.

Oman Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978250. www.omangallery.com"Modern Art • Design • Ethnic • Antiques" reads the business card of this well laid-out gallery shop – from antiques to lamps to knick knacks for interiors. On the hill that leads to cocktails or culture – just steps away from Naughty Nuri’s and the Neka Museum.

Sayan SquareJl. Penestanan, Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 081236 806100. A one-stop shop where you can find a variety of items from batik to fashion, gifts to handicrafts, home decor to home spa products. If one of you shops and the other does not, coffee and the delicious handcrafted JBay ice cream is also on the schedule.

Tegun GalleryJl. hanoman #44B, Ubud. Tel: 0361-970992. Woodcrafting for the home and garden. A unique collection of inspiring traditional Folk art from across the archipelago.

DDHARMA(Sanskrit) Meaning righteousness. The orderly fulfilment of inherent duty. A religious duty, according to one’s caste. Adharma is unrighteousness or the lack of observation of this duty, and brings accumulation of demerit.

EeCO

Golden Hour by Agung Rai. ARMA Museum & Resort, Jl. Raya Pengosekan.Tel: 0361-975742/976659www.armaresort.comThis is one of those special tours, the kind that can really

open your eyes to the beauty of Bali. Starting from the ARMA Museum & Resort, join owner Agung Rai as he takes you to his secret places just north of Ubud, to lands that have not changed in customs or traditions for thousands of years. Walk the verdant rice fields, gaze upon Mt. Agung majestic in the dawn's glow, stop for coffee at a local warung...and along the way learn how the Balinese really feel and think from one of the island's most helpful and generous tour guides. A stunning dawn tour of some of Bali's most outstanding landscape.

The Linda Garland Estate Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974017. Linda@indosat.net.id Linda Garland’s world-renowned river-estate is an amazing tribute to the potential of bamboo in all its forms. Mick Jagger loved this place so much he got married here...well sort of.

The Green School Jl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Banjar Saren, Abiansemal. Tel: 0361-469875 www.greenschool.org. A powerful community joint-venture school and event centre on the river. Well worth an afternoon looksee.

Utama Spice - Bali Herb Walk & Jamu Class Banjar Pengosekan, Jl Kaja Kauh #8, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975051 or 0812 3816 020. www.utamaspicebali.com Contact Lilir for secrets of jamu, Indonesia’s practice of traditional herbal medicine.

FFeStiVALS

Bali Spirit Festival www.balispiritfestival.com A vibrant and uplifting annual international celebration of yoga, dance and music held in Ubud, the Bali Spirit Festival brings international artists and yoga practitioners together to inspire change in our world. held in April each year at the Bali Purnati Centre for the Arts in Batuan. Go online and sign up for the Bali Spirit newsletter to stay in the loop about next year’s event.

Ubud Writers & Readers www.ubudwritersfestival.comOne of the six best literary festivals in the world (according to Harper’s Bazaar UK at least), the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival brings together writers, readers, artists and performers in a week-long program that’s put Ubud on the map as an international centre for the arts. Check the website for details, news, and updates as to who is coming this year and how to get tickets to the literary lunches, workshops and talks.

GGLASS

Horizon Glassworks Jl. Raya Kengetan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-7804014. www.horizonglassworks.com Map Ref: F.1handmade glass, expert craftmanship, best materials and great prices on solid sculpture and more. Trained at the world-recognised centre for hot glass – Pilchuck Glass School in Washington State’s Cascade Mountains – horizon Glassworks founder Ron Seivertson believes the process of creating hot glass art is all encompassing. “There is something about the material that is alive,” he says. “Before being melted it is pure silica sand; after melting it is glass, and it will be glass forever – there is an alchemy in this process.” Ron transforms molten glass into sophisticated sculptures and vessels alike, capturing the fragile beauty of the subjects that inspire his work. Visit the

DANCE: “No feast is complete in Bali,” penned the Mexican writer Miguel Covarrubias in 1937, “without music and elaborate dramatic and dance performances. No one would dream of getting married, or holding a cremation, or even of celebrating a child’s birthday, without engaging troupes of dancers and actors to entertain the guests and neighbours.” Dance and drama remain central to the Balinese way, colourful spectacles in the life of the culture. In fact Covarrubias and his wife became such enthusiastic theatre-goers during their time on the island they “sometimes they had to make a point of staying home to catch up with lost sleep”. The Mexican chronicler wrote in his still definitive book, Island of Bali: “Even the tired peasant who works all day in the fields does not mind staying up at night to watch a show, and the little children who invariably make up the front rows of the audience remain there until dawn for the end, occasionally huddled together taking naps, but wide awake for the exciting episodes of the play.” Next to having good orchestras, a fine group of dancers is an imperative need for the spiritual and physical well being of the community. When a society has enough money for the elaborate costumes needed for public appearance, the village banjar or community association gives an inauguration festival to bless the clothes. All actors, dancers, or story-tellers undergo the same ceremony – in the case of a dancer, a priest uses the stem of a flower to inscribe magic syllables on the face, head, tongue and hands in order to make the dancer attractive to the eyes of the public. It is not only on this occasion that dancers pray for success; before every performance they make small offerings to the deities of the dance.

workshop on the south end of Sayan Ridge and see art in creation. Monday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm.

GALUNGAN(Noun). A religious festival that takes place on Wednesday of the week Dunggulan in the Balinese calendar and which celebrates the victory of dharma (religious duty) over adharma, (or the lack of observance of this duty).

hHeALtH

FivelementsBanjar Baturning, Mambal.Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.orgTaking healing and healthy living to a new level, Fivelements is a tribute to both traditional Balinese healing Usadha – there are two native healers more or less in residence – and to Living Foods with Sakti, their fine dining vegan restaurant. With eight healing rooms, a beauty sanctuary, five suites for residential healing, two pools – for Watsu and healing

water dancing – a laboratory, meeting rooms and a myriad of curative treatments Fivelements is going 'deeper', way deeper, than others on Bali have gone before.

Light SpiritJalan Pengosekan, Ubud Tel: 0361-857-5570 www.lightspiritbali.comSound and energy healing centre which works with intuitive and highly educated therapists to ensure a high quality standard for energetic

treatments. Open Monday – Saturday from 10:30 – 7:30 pm

Sayan Aesthetic InstituteJl. Penestanan, Sayan, Ubud Tel: 0361-972648.www.aestheticbali.comOn the other side of the spectrum, Sayan Aesthetic Institute (SAI) treads the well worn path of beauty

and rejuvenation through modern means. This Australian-developed clinic offers a complete range of procedures including world leader Germany's high-tech restorative dentistry, CEREC from SIRONA.

HeLiCOPteRS

Air Bali Dewa Ruci Building No. 2 Simpang Siur, By Pass Ngurah Rai, Kuta. Tel: (24 hour hotline) +62 813 3876 9756 or +62 812 3836 321. www.airbali.com Sky tours, volcano flights, aerial photography…or maybe you just need to get up to Ubud in a hurry. Air Bali’s helicopter service covers the bases. Landing pad at The Viceroy Bali.

HOMeStAYS

Alam Indah Family Hotels Nyuh Kuning village. Tel: 0361-974629. www.alamindahbali.com

Jati 3 Bungalows & SpaJl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973349 & 977101.

www.jati3bungalows.com

Kebun Indah (Beautiful Garden) Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-973366. www.alamidahbali.com

Padi Prada Suite – Resto – Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978972 & 970979.www.balihotels.com/ubud/padiprada.php

Sania`s House Jl. Karna 7, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975535.

Swasti Cottage Banjar Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-974079.www.baliswasti.com

Taman Indrakila Hotel Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975017.

Tirta Harum Jl. Jero Gadung 66A, Kutuh Kelod, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973381.

HOteLS

Agung Raka Bungalow Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud.

the list

the list

Who are you – really? Nicky Kassapian has some answers.

FINANCIAL crisis, people losing millions, families break up, people losing their houses, cars, jobs… it’s a global phenomenon. For all, the challenges are intense, at times seemingly too much to handle. Why do some seem to be able to handle such crises more effectively than others? Some rise like the phoenix from the ashes, others carry the wound like a badge on their sleeve. Perhaps it lies in attachment and non-attachment.

Attachment to the definition of ‘self’ – through what you have, what you do and who you are in such situations – in which something is torn away without warning, resulting in a deep personal shock. Non-attachment to the definition of self means you are better able to adjust and adapt more easily.

We do not need to wait for a crisis to come along to check in with ourselves. Indeed, seize the day and become limitless once more. how? Well, read on and find out.

Ask yourself these questions. Are you what you have? Are you what you do?

Are you who you are simply in relation to others? What is it that makes you define yourself as this or that or who? What happens when all of what you have disappears?

What happens when what you do is no longer required? What happens when others step out of the frame and who you are vanishes?

Ah, now you are in the place of stepping beyond possessions, functions and relations. You are nowhere and yet that very nowhere means you can be everywhere.

If you were to drop all the

possessions, functions and relations that you define yourself through and as…just for a day…you could experience spaciousness, freedom and equanimity…just for a day.

To achieve this you will need some paper and writing implements…and of course a day of solitude. All computers, mobile phones and even music devices

are to be switched off.Start by making a list of all you ‘have’.

Reflect and note how each item makes you feel. how would you feel about yourself if you did not have that item? Is it an intrinsic part of ‘you’? Is there anything that you no longer need to have, and if so how best to pass it on?

Follow that by a list of all you ‘do’. Contemplate how what you ‘do’ impacts on you, your health and wellbeing? Is it still necessary to do all that you do or are some factors redundant? how does what you ‘do’ affect others? In what ways can you adjust what you ‘do’ to be greater of benefit to yourself and others?

Follow that by a list of who you

are in relation to others. Ponder on the ‘definitions’ and ask yourself, are they still appropriate? In fact, were they ever?

Did they come from you by choice or did you automatically take them on without feeling into how they would be or what they would mean? Are they still a reflection of who you are now or has that ‘persona’ long since moved on? Who do you see yourself as now and how does that serve yourself and others?

The fourth list is one you may wish to spread over a few days. It is the one where you write down all the other ways

you define yourself to yourself. As you do this list, notice those which are

helpful to you and those which are harmful to you.

Again, which are relevant to whom you see yourself as now and which have long since passed into another dimension?

You can do this at speed or you can actually take the time to reflect on what you

have written on each list and your responses to the subsequent questions.

It’s a personal stock-take, reassessment and clutter clear, all in one.

Decide who you actually are and what you actually want to be and what you really ‘need’ to have to fulfil that new definition. Keep in mind that it may well mean that you renegotiate relationships with yourself and others – you may end up changing some things in your life and giving things you no longer need to have to those who do.

Give your self a fresh start and begin being more of who you really are and want to be. If you really take it to the limit you might just find yourself beyond the being you thought you were...and how refreshing that could be.

Tel: 0361-975757. www.agungraka.com

Alila Manggis Desa Manggis, Candi Dasa.Tel: 0363-41011.www.alilahotels.comOne of Bali's best kept secrets, Alila Manggis is a secluded, stylish seaside resort in Manggis, East Bali, superbly designed in a contemoprary interpretation of traditional Balinese architecture.

Alila Ubud Desa Melinggh Kelod, Payangan.Tel: 0361-975963. www.alilahotels.comOne of Ubud’s favoured hotels, this 56-room resort perches on one side of the Ayung River valley. AmandariKedewatan, Ubud.Tel: 0361-975333. www.amanresorts.com Legendary luxury Ubud retreat.

Ananda Cottages Campuhan Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975376. www.anandaubud.com

ARMA Resort Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975742/976659. www.armaresort.com ARMA resort is artistically and thoughtfully designed with antique wooden beds on each patio providing a romantic perch from which to enjoy the view. Traditional Balinese architecture melds thatched roofs, woven bamboo and sculpted sandstone into a unique and meditative ambience

surrounded by lush tropical gardens and rice terraces. The Resort is set within a unique and natural landscape.

Anini Raka Resort Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975213. www.aniniraka.com

Anhera Suite Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 168, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977845. www.anherahotelbali.com

Bagus JatiBr. Jati, Desa Sebatu, . Tel: 0361-978885/901888. www.bagusjati.com This out of the way resort is ideal for those times when you need to retreat and cleanse. Fabulous spa facilities.

Beji Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971166. www.bejiubudresort.com

Barong Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971759. www.barongresortspa.com

Bumi Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No.88, Br. Silungan Lodtunduh, Ubud.

Tel: 0361-974124. www.bumiubudresort.com.

Casa Luna Honeymoon Guesthouse Jl. Bisma, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973282. www.casalunabali.com. The honeymoon Guesthouses are situated only a five-minute walk away from the heart of Ubud and Casa Luna Restaurant. With 30 elegant Balinese–style guest rooms set in lush tropical gardens, honeymoon Guesthouse has become a favourite with travellers, possibly because it boasts within its grounds the honeymoon Bakery. Guests can also order delicious meals from the extensive menu of the Casa Luna Restaurant, part of the same organisation under Ubud’s own Janet De Neefe.

Cendana Resort and Spa Monkey Forest Road, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973243. www.cendanaresort-spa.com

Champlung Sari Hotel Monkey Forest Road, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975418/975349. www.champlungsariubud.comA veritable instituion with many returnees, located right opposite Ubud’s Monkey Forest.

Cinta Inn UbudJl. Monkey Forest, UbudTel: 0361-975395.www.baligoodfood.comCinta Inn will be opening this month behind central Ubud's favorite watering hole, Cinta Grill. Downtown and hip, expect a dock for your iPod, plenty of light to read The Yak and The Bud, DVD's and

flat screens, and the comfiest bedding you'll find in a small inn. The pool is cool too. Rates +/- USD125 include selections from Cinta Grill's awesome breakfast menu. COMO Shambhala Estate Br. Begawan Giri, Payongan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978888. www.como.bzAn Estate like no other.This is where the A-list, red carpet regulars and the rest of the jet–set come for a change of scenery. Set on acres and acres of ravine and river exuberance, this retreat combines opulence, health, excellent raw food and a world-class spa topped off with with some of the world’s best butlers. One wants for nothing at Como.

FivelementsBanjar Baturning, Mambal.Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.orgWith only five suites for residential healing, Fivelements treat their on-site guests to a one-on-one like no other. This eco-friendly healing centre, crafted from sustainable bamboo, is located on the banks of the Ayung river and offers a unique visitation into the Balinese world of traditional healing, set on the edge of a verdant, tropical forest.

Four Seasons Resort SayanSayan Ridge, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977577. www.fourseasons.com/sayan/One of the most famous of Bali’s hotels as almost every year Condé Nast or some other venerable travel

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magazine nominates it for its fabulosity or service.

Furama Villas & Spa Jl. Raya Mambal, Br. Bindu, Tel: 0361-7463064. www.furamavillasandspa.com Furama’s first resort property, Furama Villas & Spa Ubud is set amidst an expanse of serene rice fields, framed by the majestic Mount Batur.

Gaya Fusion Villa Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-979252/979253. www.gayafusion.comRecently completed one and two bedroom villas showcase the artistry of Gaya Ceramics. Contemporary simplicity perfects the quiet, mature tree-lined river valley.

Garden View Cottages Monkey Forest Road, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974055. www.baligardenview.com

Kajane Mua Villa Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972877. www.kajane.com

Kamandalu Resort & Spa Jl. Tegallalang, Br. Nagi, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975825. www.kamandaluresort.com

Kayu Manis UbudBr. Baung, Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972777. www.kayumanis.comThe first of the Kayu Manis brand, the one-bedroom villas are excellent and the new spa is something to write home about.

Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com

Map Ref: L.4Located in Bisma street and close to the very centre of Ubud, the Komaneka at Bisma is a sophisticated and contemporary lifestyle resort, beautifully designed and nestled along the Campuhan river valley, with amazing views of the river, sloping rice fields and coconut groves. Choose a Bisma Suite Room or a One or Two Bedroom Pool Villa. Overall this resort melds beautifully with a

truly stunning site; staff are well-trained and extremely friendly and considered part of the well-respected and established family that owns and operates the property. Apple TV in each suite room is an innovative touch to this culturally-sensitive and artistically inspired hotel.

Komaneka at Monkey Forest Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud, Gianyar. Tel: 0361-976090. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7The first of three Komaneka’s that have paved the way for travellers of all ages to enjoy Ubud. Located in the very central Monkey Forest road, this small hotel has the option

of fabulous rice field views or tropical garden views. A contemporary art gallery makes it young, hip and chic – Ubud style. So popular it is usually fully booked.

Komaneka at TanggayudaBr. Tanggayuda, Kedewatan, Ubud.Tel: 0361-978123. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: P.7Think romance, think honeymoon, even if you have been married a few years. Komaneka Tanggayuda ignites passion and initmacy in this hillside resort, just a short drive north of Ubud. Balconies, soft beds and huge bathtubs set the scene for one of rest, relaxation and pure indulgence.

Kori Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 18, Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972487. www.koriubud.com

Kupu Kupu Barong Ubud Villa & Spa Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975478. www.kupubarongubud.comMap Ref: A1This is a charming and verdant resort that spills down the hillside along the Ayung River Valley in Sayan, offering spectacular views of the Ubud countryside as well as friendly service and a buggy ride back and forth from your luxury pool villa.

Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977 888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K18

Maya Ubud Resort & Spa is set in 10 hectares of hillside garden, stretching 780 metres along a peninsula high above two river valleys. It flows from hilltop down to riverside hideaway, 30 metres below. Just minutes by foot from Ubud, Maya Ubud Resort & Spa provides a spacious, stylish and luxurious environment in which to enjoy some of life’s better moments. Setting it apart are the luxurious Pool Villas, the landscaped botanical walk that skirts this vast property and an award-winning spa (not to mention the excellent food - see Restaurants).

Natura Villa Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Gunung Sari, Br. Laplapan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978666. www.naturaresortbali.com

Novus Taman Bebek Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975385. www.novustamanbebek.com

Oka Kartini Bungalows Jl. Raya, Ubud, Bali. Tel: 0361-975193. www.okakartini.comIbu Oka Kartini has been welcoming travellers to Ubud for a number of years now and largely because of her they keep coming back!

Padi Prada Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978972. www.padiprada.balidwipa.com Pertiwi Resort and Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975236. www.pertiwiresort.com

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Puri Bunga Village Hotel Jl. Raya Kedewatan PO Box 141, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975488.www.puribungahotel.com

Puri Saron Villa & Spa Desa Madangan, Petak, Ubud. Tel: 0361-270123. www.purisaronhotel.com

Rumah Rio Jl. Suweta No.24, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978773. www.rumahrio.comPrivate villas for rent in the heart of Ubud.

Royal Pita Maha Desa Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-980022. www.royalpitamaha-bali.comFit for a Prince and built by a Prince. Royal Pita Maha encompasses regal Balinese architecture on a stunning valley and river–view property. Rijasa Agung Resort & Villa Br. Begawan, Desa Melinggih, Kelud Payangan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-980333. www.rijasa.com

Sahadewa Resort & Spa Jl. hanoman, Padang Tegal, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971590. www.sahadewaresort.com

SayanTerrace Resort Jl. Raya Sayan Ubud. Tel: 0361-974384. www.sayanterraceresort.com

The Samaya UbudBanjar Baung, Desa Sayan, Ubud.Tel: 0361-973610www.thesamayabali.comA sister property to The Samaya in Seminyak, this latest property from The Royal Collection hotel group

boasts 19 villas set against the Ayung River in arguably Bali's chic-est valley, Sayan. A restaurant at the top of the property commands fabulous views over the entire gorge while each of the villas – built in to the hillside - has its own swimming pool. Expect first class service from a well-trained staff, modern minimalist interiors,

world class cuisine and an exceptional spa. And then of course there is the glory of your surrounds, perfect for bird walking, cultural exploration or just relaxing.

Semana Villa Br. Semana, Desa Singakerta, Ubud. Tel: 0361-7471234. www.villasemana.com Set in a Balinese village just out of Ubud, the outstanding scenery to and from this property complements the luxury of staying in it.

Sunny Blow Villa Jepun Jln. Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977950. Fax 0361-970012. www.sunnyblow-bali.comNext to the well-regarded Minami Japanese restaurant (and indeed managed by the same team) is Sunny Blow, a charming collection of bungalows set in a garden around a small pool. Each room is designed with style and comfort in mind: the furniture is hand-picked and Colonial to suit the mood of this relaxed mid-range property.

Tanah Merah Resort Melayang, Pejeng, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978554/978552.

www.tanahmerahresort.com

Tegal Sari Hotel Jl. hanoman, Padang TegalTel: 0361-973318. www.tegalsari-ubud.com

Tepi Sawah VillasJl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan, Ubud, Tel: 0361-970388www.tepisawahvillas.comA restful retreat set amidst beautiful tropical gardens, Tepi Sawah Villas offer spacious Balinese-style accommodation, ultimate privacy, a friendly atmosphere, together with excellent, personalised service. The Balinese-style thatched-roof villas overlook verdant rice terraces, decorated with selected paintings and artifacts by Ubud's famous artists.

The Chedi Club at Tanah GajahJl. Goa Gajah, Tengkulak Kaja, Tel: 0361-975685.www.ghmluxuryhotels.comMap Ref: x18This luxury 20-villa resort, set on an estate dedicayed to elephants and surrounded on all sides by paddy fields is located near the Goa Gajah or Elephant Cave, and a favourite among ‘those in the know’.

OFFERINGS: Bali’s offerings take on myriad forms, part of the ritualistic art of the island. Simple offerings are presented daily to the gods – they may range from a tiny piece of banana leaf holding a few grains of rice to elaborate palm-leaf trays containing flowers and betel nut, a token of hospitality for the spirits. In 1937, Miguel Covarrubias. whose book Island of Bali is regarded by many as the definitive text on matters Balinese, wrote that offerings “are given in the same spirit as presents to the prince or friends, a sort of modest bribe to strengthen a request; but it is a condition that they should be beautiful and well made to please the gods and should be placed on well decorated high altars”. The size of the offering may also be scaled up or down depending on the occasion or nature of the “request”. Pula gembal, consisting of dozens of different rice dough figurines, may range in size from a single basket to a spectacular construction several meters high. Women and girls nearly always carry towering cones of rice cakes, fruit and sweet breads to the temple, where the gods are said to consume their essence, leaving the food intact to be returned home later. No part of the offering may be used again, meaning the banten must be reproduced for every single festival.

the list

The Elephant Safari Park LodgeJl. Elephant Park, Taro.Tel: 0361-721480.www.elephantsafariparklodge.comA lodge that is not a lodge. Twenty-five luxury accommodations in the centre of an elephant park! Pack your trunk and go to bed with the pachyderms. One of the top 100 things to have done in a lifetime.

The Linda Garland EstateNyuh Kuning, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974028. www.lindagarland.com

The Mansion Hotel & Spa Jl. Penestanan, Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972616.Map Ref: K1www.themansionbali.com ‘Grand’ is the word that comes to mind when walking through the doors of the aptly named The Mansion hotel & Spa. Asian opulence at its best with a sweeping staircase that leads to an eclectic that houses paintings, rare textiles and royal regalia. The Suites and Residences host large four poster beds, swathed silk curtains and generous bathrooms. Indochine, the restaurant, is exotic and romantic. (See Restaurants)

The Ubud Village Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978444. www.theubudvillage.com

The Viceroy Bali Jl. Lanyahan, Br Nagi, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971777. www.viceroybali.com An relative newcomer to the Ubud hotel and resort scene, The Viceroy Bali is now one of

the top resorts in the area.

Tjampuhan Hotel & Spa Jl. Raya Tjampuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975368. www.hoteltjampuhan.com

Ubud Hotel - Taman Harum Cottages Tel: 0361-975567. www.bali-hotel-taman-harum.com

Ubud Hanging GardensDesa Buahan, Desa Payangan, Ubud.Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens.com.

Located in the steep rice terraces of Payangan, this unique resort has 38 luxury private pool villas, each with heated private infinity plunge pools and spectacular views of an ancient temple, tropical mountains and the winding Ayung river. The resort itself is not so much perched on the hilltop as merged with it, and a small mechanical carriage (funicular) carries guests up and down the hillside in style.

Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng No 35, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974393. www.ubudsari.com

A resort offering health and detoxification treatments.

Ulun Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan,Tel: 0361-975024. www.ulunubud.com

Uma Ubud Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-972448.www.umaubud.como.bzMap Ref: B.4Tropical French contemporary is a style with which Uma has become known, in other words elegant simplicity. One of Ubud’s top yet more exclusive resorts boasts an excellent bar, a fabulous pool, a Zen-inspired spa, yoga pavilion and a restaurant (Kemiri) that has won accolades and a local expat following. Less espensive than sister resort COMO Shambhala, the care for health, excellent service and all the trappings are of equal standing.

Villa Indah UbudKedewatan, Ubud Tel: 0361-975450. www.villaindahubud.com

Villa Kánti Br. Apuh, Mawang Kelod, Lodtunduh, Ubud. Tel: 0361-8614400. www.villakanti.com

Villa Kerti Yasa Nyuh Kuning, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971377. www.vilakertiyasa.com

Villa Sonia Jl. Nyuh Bulan, Nyuh Kuning, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971307. www.villasonia.nl

Warwick Ibah Villa & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974466. www.warwickibah.com A small but revered boutique hotel with Balinese architecture fountains and tropical gardens. One of the more genteel places to stay. The view from the balcony terraces and bathrooms is totally memorable.

Waka Di Ume Jl. Suweta, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973178. www.wakadiume.comSimple Balinese elegance from the Waka boutique hotel group. Set in rice paddy just north of Ubud, it ranks as one of the areas nicest places to stay.

Waka Namya Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Penestanan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975719. www.wakanamya.comBalinese antiques marry modern convenience. Romantic rice barn rooms or family villas with pools.

JJeWeLRY

Galaxyan Jewelry Jl. hanoman No.3, Ubud. Tel: 0361- 971430.Map ref: K.10www.galaxyanjewels.comThe Galaxyan collection has been created by Italian artist Milena Zu and uses intricate 'mesh' designs in silver, together with stones that range from gems to minerals and zircons. The collection includes bracelets, necklaces, anklets and accessories. This very intricate weaving process

was employed in the past to make gold woven jewelry for maraharajas and nobles of the Orient, but through Galaxyan it is now available for you too!

Gemala Jewelry Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-976084.www.gemalabalisilver.com

JFF Jewelry Jl. Suweta No. 6, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972078. www.jf-f.com Map Ref: I.8Jean Francois Fichot, jeweller extraordinaire who exhibits world-wide, has long attracted the A list to his style of design and art. he blends, moulds and crafts everyday things found in nature into intricate pieces of art. JFF’s gold earrings, rings and necklaces create not only conversations but jealousies too.

Treasures Jewelry Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-976697. www.decko.comMap Ref: I.6Acclaimed jewellers exhibit at Treasures, Bali’s most unique venue for the world’s most favoured metal. Gold, and lots of it, alongside precious and semi-precious stones amalgamate to make up truly one-of-a-kind pieces that last many lifetimes. Yan Van Jewelry Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978513.www.yanvan.comFinally jewelry that looks great on men (and excuse me, women too)! Using rubber and silver as his ‘signature take’ on adorning the opposite

sex, Yan Van’s unique pieces are masculine yet thankfully not overly biker-ish.

KKAWIA literary language, based on Sanskrit, that evolved in South India and was transmitted to Java; many sacred Balinese lontars are written in Kawi, which is unintelligable to the average person and must be interpreted; the heroes and heroines of the epic poems speak in Kawi. In the lower case, kawi means ‘creative force’, ‘to write or compose prose or poetry’.

KiDS

See entries under Adventure and Wildlife – Bali Zoo Park, Bali Safari & Marine Park, Bali Bird Park and Elephant Safari Park Taro. ARMA Museum carries out painting, dancing and offering making classes. Ceramic sessions are held at Gaya Gallery in Sayan for kids.

LLiVe JAZZ

MozaicJl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud.Telp: 975768www.mozaic-bali.comMap ref: B.3Every Thursday, Friday, Saturday nights are the time to enjoy the live jazz

performance at the Lounge at Mozaic from 7pm – 11pm, elegantly accompanied by a deluxe tapas menu and very delicious cocktails.

Coffee & Silver Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975354. head to the base of Monkey Forest hill and Coffee & Silver for live music on Saturday's Sunday's and Tuesday. The action starts at 7pm.

Jazz CafeJl Sukma, Tebesaya, UbudTel: 0361-976594.www.jazzcafebali.comMap Ref: M.12Cool Jazz at Ubud's hottest night spot. A lively and popular club, restaurant and bar frequented by locals, ex-pats and international travellers alike. Enjoy a meal from their excellent bistro, try one of their legendary cocktails, sit back, relax or kick up your heels and dance the night away. Their inviting, intimate venue is perfect for birthdays, anniversaries, wedding parties and other special events. Great bands play Jazz, Blues, Latin, Funk, Soul and World Music from 7.30 to 10.30pm every night (except Sundays and Mondays).Free pick up service from hotels in the Ubud area.

Laughing Buddha BarJl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-970928.Map Ref: P.7A cosy, vibrant and funky cocktail bar. East West tapas or if you are in the mood for some local fare, try a dish from their inspired Asian menu while sipping

on a lychee and lemongrass martini (buy 2 get one FREE sunset cocktails from 4 to 7pm). The little sister of Jazz Café, the music is a treat, with great playlists to soothe the soul and live gigs on Mondays with Bali’s own Blues Brothers and Thursday nights Acoustic Jam Session - from 8 to 11pm. Open all day, every day. Free Wifi 9am to 6pm.

MMELASPAS(noun): A dedication ceremony in which a house or other building is “brought to life” with offerings, mantras and holy water so that it can be lived in and used.

NNGABENTo cremate a body, low Balinese or Sudra; the noun is properly pengabenan, but the transitive verb is commonly used to mean “cremation”, an important final rite of passage for every Balinese, for it is only in this way that the spirit may be released from its body to join the family’s deified ancestors.

OODALANA temple ceremony marking its anniversary. Lasting anywhere from one day to over a week, temple grounds are decked out in flags, penjors and impressive offerings. Music and prayers go on well into the night.

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PPALACESIf you’re interested in seeing a palace and observing the way life is conducted inside, there are opportunities to do so, but remember that for the most part they are private homes, not public throughways. Many of the Ubud royals have opened hotels and restaurants within the walls of their homes, so one can, in fact, sleep and eat in one of the Ubud palaces, enjoying accommodations from the most modest bungalow to modern luxury rooms. In some cases, you have a chance to meet the palace residents and join them for family and community ceremonies. Puri Saren Agung is the central palace where the public dance performances are held. Located at the northeast corner of the central cross-roads, it’s pretty hard to miss. It was the home of the last “king” of Ubud, and now his descendants live there. It is essentially the “father palace” of the other Ubud palaces, which are more or less its “spinoffs,” built as the family extended. It was also Ubud’s first hotel, opening its doors to paying visitors in the 1930s. Parts of the gardens and some of the bales

are quite grand and formal, with generous lashings of prada (gold leaf) applied to the carved woodwork. Puri Saren Kangin is the eastern portion of Puri Saren (kangin means”east”), and is a private residence for several branches of the Ubud royal family. Pura Saren Kauh Kauh means “west,” and accordingly, this is the occidental portion of the palace.

PERFORMANCESSee last pages of The List for Dance Schedules andPerformances.

PROPeRtY

Exotiq Real EstateSanur, Bali OfficeJalan Danau Tamblingan 77, Sanur, Bali 80227, IndonesiaTel: 0361-287642www.exotiqrealestate.comExotiq Real Estate is South East Asia's largest brokerage and consultancy focusing on property located in highly attractive and desirable holiday destinations. Exotiq

Real Estate offers prime property listings in nine different destinations from a network of 12 offices.Exotiq Real Estate Bali is the largest real estate specialist with offices in Lovina, Jimbaran, Sanur and Seminyak.

Ubud Property Jl. Raya Ubud No.1 (eastern end of main street Ubud, next to the statue). Tel: 0361-970888. www.ubudproperty.comUbud Property is a leading realtor in the Ubud area. The company is staffed by professionals who will help you to find and secure your ideal property and, let’s face it, who doesn’t want to retire and live in Ubud? The Ubud Property team is multinational and experienced, with the key staff holding degrees in law. The company works in association with the region’s leading Notary Office for optimal legal protection, and enjoys a reputation good enough to hold an exceptional portfolio of villas and land in and around Ubud.

PHOtOGRAPHY

Rio Helmi Gallery Jl. Suweta No. 5, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972304. www.riohelmi.com

Yaeko Masuda www.yaekomasuda.com

RReStAuRANtSAry’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Ary’s gourmet European and Indonesian specialties have fans from around the world. Stop in for at least one of the honey-ginger-lime drinks (with or without the booze) and kick back on a couch street side for a bit of people-watching. The metallic, angular construction of this open-air bistro would look great in a big-city gallery district, and stands comfortably beside ancient hindu temples and the adjacent Royal Palace. It is the place to see and be seen and Ary’s is quite pleasant at night, when tranquil trance music plays and candles light every corner. Second-floor dining gives you a good view of the busy street below or the bats swooping to catch bugs at dusk. The food is good but not for the budget-minded. Try the gazpacho, perfect on a hot day, or the grilled goat’s cheese salad. The grilled tuna and lamb

NYEPI: What could be a better illustration of Bali’s on-going dedication to religion and ritual than Nyepi, the island’s Day of Silence? The afternoon before this extraordinary annual festival, excited children create vast figures in demonic designs – these ogres with their long talons and fierce teeth will later be lifted onto the shoulders of groups of men and danced around the streets in a mass of noise and colour. The festivities reach a chaotic climax before midnight, when crowds pick up and bang on drums, wooden logs or musical instruments, to be followed in the morning by a deafening silence, a time when the people stay in their houses, lights, and fires are put out and the roads are made empty. This, more than any other ceremony in Bali, shows the island’s true regard for ritual: the island’s visitors, just like anyone else, are forced so stay inside in observance of Nyepi. For 24 hours, Bali stands silent, its beaches, bars, and restaurants closed against daylight in the hope that evil forces will be tricked into leaving its deserted streets.

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cutlets are done to perfection, and the ponzu-grilled snapper is delicious. Ary’s also makes for a good meeting place or for reconnoitering when the kids are trekking and Mom is off shopping.

Bebek Bengil Restaurant (Dirty Duck Diner) Jl. hanoman, Padang Tegal, Ubud.Tel: 0361- 975 489. www.agungraka.com Bebek Bengil or Crispy Duck is what this venue is famous for... as well as its breezy pavilion style seating.

Bebek Tepi SawahJl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan, Ubud.Tel: 0361-975656www.tepisawahvillas.comMap Ref: E.6Enjoy a wide selection of cuisine, ranging from contemporary Western and innovative Indonesian or Balinese specialties in a fresh atmosphere within the environment of a real Balinese village. Tepi Sawah Restaurant is open for lunch and dinner from 10am - 10pm.

Beduur Restaurant Desa Buahan, Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens.com Terraced onto the hillside with outstanding panoramic views of the valley and the scenic backdrop of the temple on the opposite side of the gorge, Beduur Restaurant at Ubud hanging Gardens resort features the delights of both Asian and French cuisine with Balinese ingredients in the serene setting of pure tranquility. Executive Chef

Renaud Le Rasle’s menu is innovative and superbly delicious. Bookings preferable.

Bumbu Bali Jl. Suweta No 1, Ubud.Tel: 0361-974217. www.bumbubaliresto.com

Bunute Restaurant & BarJl.Dewi Sita, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972177. www.bunute.comRecently opened Bunute serves Balinese delights with international twists. Wine and live music make this a new venue to try.

Café Des ArtistesJl. Bisma 9x, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972706 .www.cafedesartistesbali.comMap Ref: K.5Think Belgian, think steaks, frites and salads in a romantically-lit pavilion or at garden tables. Belgium beer now available for those mid-day heated moments.One of Ubud's favourite hangouts and a must for excellent comfort food.

Café Lotus Ubud Jl. Raya, Ubud. Tel: 0361- 975660. www.lotus-restaurants.comOverlooking an expansive

lotus pond and amphitheatre in the grounds of Puri Saraswati.

Casa Luna Restaurant Jl. Raya, Ubud. Tel: 0361- 977409. www.casalunabali.com Map Ref: J.6With its relaxed tropical atmosphere and superb selection of food, Casa Luna offers a fine selection of Balinese and Mediterranean dishes, great bakeries, to-die-for coffees and a health-conscious outlook. Situated on the main road just down from the Ubud market, it is a favourite with visitors from all over the world and has a reputation that extends beyond most café restaurants of its kind. Wednesday nights are Brazilian Jazz nights with music by Murni and Riwin as well as tapas and cocktails. It also offers the Luna Lounge with newspapers, CNN, movies and free Wifi, as well as its famed honeymoon Bakery, established in 1991, using time-honoured methods and the finest ingredients to satisfy travellers from all corners of the globe. Sunday Brunches are a must.

CasCades Restaurant Jl. Lanyahan, Br. Nagi, Ubud.Tel: 0361-972111. www.cascadesbali.com Map Ref: h.15CasCades at The Viceroy Bali is a superb fine dining experience with an inspiring menu, a good selection of fine wines, and an outstanding view across the valley.

Cinta Grill and Inn Jl. Monkey Forest Ubud. Tel: 0361-975395.

www.baligoodfood.comMap Ref: 0.7Walk along Monkey Forest Road in Ubud and you won’t miss Cinta Grill, Ubud’s garden restaurant and pub. The inviting ambience of a spacious garden entices you in; the food and drinks convince you to return again. Start at the bar for a cocktail, then choose the thatched dining room, the outdoor modern garden back-dropped by an impressive Balinese gate, or chill on the cushions in the private pavilion. The menu has tantalising surprises in store, combining grill classics with an imaginative menu of salads, pastas, Asian curries, stir-fries and down-home desserts. Open daily from 8am to midnight.

Coffee & CopperJl. Nyuhbulan, Nyuh Kuning, Ubud.Tel: 0361-978631.www.coffeecopper.comA spacey, airy restaurant right next to the back entrance of Monkey Forest. Serving a range of healthy breakfasts, light brunches and romantic dinners. Luxurious suites available for reasonable prices. Coffee & Silver Jl. Monkey Forest, UbudTel: 0361-975354.www.coffeesilver.comA favourite among the Euro-crew, this restaurant and bar is set on a multi-tiered terrace dotted with antiques and interior design accents.

Fly Café Jl. Raya Lungsiakan, Ubud.Tel: 0361-975440. flycafe@gmail.com

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Andrew Hall bemoans the beginnings of Twitterage in his paradise parish.

WhEN two hemispheres of uranium are slammed together under explosive force the energy produced can be very destructive. A similar kind of reaction to the one theorized by Einstein and born of J. Robert Oppenheimer (in a project called Manhattan – which was a very strong cocktail indeed) has the potential to provide usable and lasting energy for the good of all.

The principles of nuclear physics have been rendered almost mundane thanks to the musings of a hot violin player and those who came after him. The consequences of econo-cultural hemispherics are, arguably, less defined and, perhaps, more troublesome.

Google-Earth on Bali. And from there zoom in on Ubud. It’s a bit cloudy, I know, but the Google guys don’t update the satellite scans very often. Not the most prominent place on the planet. Except for the poignancy it holds for those who call it home (or the Turtle who has to carry it around). A spot where ‘Western’ and ‘Eastern’ coincide (and, sometimes, collide in a munificent array of sparks which can, at times, be metaphysical, but more often metallic as vehicles crash into one another). And remember the quaint quietude of your little local warung?

Ahh the memories. A place to get a cup off coffee that would increase your heart rate by a factor of 10. A warm beer too . . . will, do whatever a warm beer does. A sociable chat with the proprietor and requisite rice farmers. The “ken-kens” the “sing ken-kens”. The “bin besiks”. Bloody good stuff. Not any more. These days one has to kit oneself out with industrial hearing protection just to pop up and buy a packet of kretek because the little-uns and not-so-little-uns of the village are playing video games at decibels to overwhelm an AC/DC concert.

Apart from the sheer noise and

startling (for me, that is) subject matter of the ‘games’ (lots of leaping about in order to shoot and kill things), the amount of time these young people spend entranced (and spectating the entranced) is mind-blowing. It’s a nouveau transcendentalism. But sans any physical and/or spiritual advantage (unless one contemplates the

introspective benefits of deafness). One wonders how long Bali’s Temple Culture can hold out in the face of such subversion of the younger generations.

And then we have those wonderful community-builders: Facebook, Twitter (for twits?) and the financially debilitating pervasion of mobile telephony. To name just a few. Ubud is touted as the cultural centre of Bali, though I wonder if culture here is not becoming a concept vicarious; usurped by product vendors for profit? Which is not to say that the various Banjar do not profit from flogging their culture to tourists – at least the community has to co-operate, in the

flesh, to stage the performances. Techno-culture, however, is more insidious and somewhat sneaky. I went to a barbeque once in Ubud where instead of healthy banter there existed a bunch of people connected to their Blackberry devices and utterly disconnected from their immediate surroundings. Weird! The kids were main-lining Facebook, Twitter or some such.

I’m sure there will be those (enamored of Western freedoms of association with multinational marketing moguls) who might rebut by saying: “If ‘we’ can have access to these amazingly useful technologies, why shouldn’t ‘they’?” One point to advance in the face of such an argument might be that in the ‘West’ there is a great deal of research conducted and published on the effects of people’s infatuation with technology. Many people of the parenting class read it (albeit, perhaps, ‘online’). I would suggest that in the ‘East’ in general, and Ubud in particular, this is not the case.

Much, if not most, of Balinese culture is passed down through an oral and personally interactive tradition. It doesn’t work if people aren’t talking to each other, meeting each other (Face-to-Face-no-book). One can’t learn the essence and interplay of the Gamelan, for instance, by checking out www.wayanbangsthegong.com.

There is a balance in the offing of ‘old’ and ‘new’ to be sure. Technology has its place and should be kept there.

When the band, REM, refused to sell the rights to its song, It’s The End Of The World As We Know It, to Microsoft for the purpose of marketing a Windows program, I applauded. REM sensed something many others didn’t.

May the Elders of Ubud show the same sense of propriety, dignity, and sense the importance of their heritage.

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Ribs, ribs, beer and ribs and a great Trivial Pursuits night.

GLOW at COMO ShambhalaBj. Begawan Giri, Payongan.Tel: 0361-978888.www.como.bzIt’s rawfully good at GLOW, COMO Shambhala’s signature ‘healthful’ restaurant. Zucchini carpaccios, quinoa, red rice – everything gluten-free if need be – and all totally delicious. Executive and award-winning chef Chris Miller, has hand-crafted a menu based on the purity of the new health trend of raw food. It is not only the food that will do you good as GLOW has one of Bali’s best ravine-river views with mature trees that just burst with energy and life, whilst the open, glass-accented kitchen lets you watch the specialists prepare your ultra-fresh ingredients.Located on a private estate bookings for GLOW are essential!

Han Snel Restaurant & BarJl. Kajeng, Ubud.Tel: 0361 8410505www.hansnelrestaurantcomFamous Dutch Painter han Snel's gallery located just minutes from the palace. During his time as a renowned artist, han built Siti Bungalows and one of the first restaurant and bars in Ubud, recently re-opened and now serving excellent international cuisine by an eccentric, well-experienced 5-star hotel Chef, Erick Kurniawan. Expect a large selection of cold drinks, wireless internet and very friendly staff. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 10pm. Crazy Drink Promotions such as

DDD – David's Double Dice – get a discount and daily specials are low as Rp20,000 per meal...all to be enjoyed in the true Balinese spirit of tranquil gardens in a peaceful sanctuary.

Ibu Rai Bar & Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud.Tel: 0361- 973472. www.iburai.comMap Ref: K.8Ibu Rai's menu is specially selected for nutrition and natural flavours and uses the best and the freshest ingredients. They serve a pleasing presentation coupled with friendly service that adds enjoyment to any meal.

Indus RestaurantJl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977684. www.casalunabali.com/indus Map Ref: C.4Indus Restaurant, a five-minute drive from the centre of Ubud, overlooks the Campuhan River and enjoys breathtaking views of the surrounding hills. On a clear day, you can see mighty Gunung Agung, in the east, and on a full-moon, there is a spectacular view from the terrace. The restaurant runs a

free shuttle service between Indus, Casa Luna and the honeymoon Guesthouses. With its mouth–watering menu, eclectic gallery and breathtaking views of the Campuhan River, it’s easy to see why Indus has been an Ubud favourite for nearly 10 years. Salsa nights on Mondays.

Jazz CafeJl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Ubud. Tel: 0361-976594.Map Ref: M.12Cool jazz at arguably Ubud's hottest nightspot. The first live jazz venue of the island, with a lively and popular restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine and a variety of salads, excellent kebabs, healthy fare and fresh juices. Live music nightly except Mondays.

Juice Ja Café Jl. Dewi Sita Ubud. Tel: 0361-971056. Fresh, pure and healthy. The perfect place to get your shot of wheatgrass and watch the street go by beneath you.

Kafe Jl. hanoman no. 44B, Padang Tegal, Ubud. Telp: 0361-7803802. www.balispirit.com/kafe/The destination for the yoga crew and anyone looking to feel at home when so far away. It is also the hangout for the regular expat community, overseas course-takers and overnight Ubudites. The menu is organic and healthy, varied and reasonable. And, if you just want to read your book and have a decent coffee, you can do that too! Open daily from 8am to 11pm.

Kafe ARMAJalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud, Tel: 0361-975742, 976659www.armaresort.comThis pavilion-style open air café offers delicious Indonesian and international influenced cuisine. All dishes are cooked by internationally trained chefs and served in a relaxed and comfortable ambience. Kafe ARMA also provides authentic Italian cuisine and a large selection of drinks and cocktails at the bar. The cafe holds an Organic Farm Market every Wednesday from 8am-2pm. Kafe ARMA is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Kafe Batan Waru Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977528. www.baligoodfood.com Everyone knows Batan Waru. Conveniently located in the heart of Ubud, (and now directly across the street from the Waterbom Park in Kuta) any time of the week, Kafe Batan Waru has something for you. Rated Bali’s “Best Indonesian restaurant”, this perpetually popular café serves up an imaginative menu of Indonesian and Balinese favourites in a charming setting. Known foremost for offering Bali’s most interesting and delicious selection of Indonesian food, Batan Waru also caters to other tastes. Rice, pasta and bread lovers will find lots to eat for lunch and dinner. Open daily from 8am to midnight.

Kagemusha Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel 0361-973134. A secret success story, Kagemusha is a friendly

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Japanese restaurant serving home-cooked cuisine in a serene atmosphere with a good view.

Kemiri at UmaJl. Sanggingan, Ubud.Tel: 0361-972448.www.umaubud.como.bzMap Ref: B.4Chef Amanda Gale and her team have created an Indonesian menu with flavours fit for a king. Sit beside a waterfall that spills into a Koi pond in the midst of tropicalia and savour Southeast Asian cooking as well as traditional Balinese cuisine. The healthy COMO Shambhala menu is also available. Open breakfast, lunch and dinner with à la carte or set menus.Full moon dinners come highly recommended as does Uma Teatime.

Kokokan Club Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud. Telp: 0361-975742, 976659www. kokokan.comElegant dining in the old-world atmosphere of Kokokan Club's Balinese style open-air restaurant. Rejuvenate yourself with an exotic range of Asian Cuisine, prepared by the internationally trained chef, specialising in delightful Thai dishes. Relax in the tranquil Kokokan Restaurant, situated within the peaceful surroundings of ancient rice terraces and water-gardens.

Kudus at COMO Bj. Begawan Giri, PayanganTel: 0361-978888.An exquisite 150-year-old prince’s abode seemingly hangs over the Ayung River Valley and sets the scene for

eating some of the palatial delicacies that Indonesian royal families from past eras enjoyed. Open for dinner only. Bookings essential.

Kué Bakery Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975249.Our answer to glucose withdrawals, Kue just takes the biscuit and bakes the cake (in face it bakes 15 types of bread daily). It also boasts a fabulous upstairs eatery which is very well regarded. Open daily from 8am–10pm.

Laka - Leke Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning.Tel: 0361-977565.Related to the excellent Cafe Wayan on Monkey Forest Rd, at Laka Leke sit amongst lily ponds in pavilions and listen to the sound of frogs, and the food is as good as at Cafe Wayan.

Lamak Restaurant & BarJl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974668.www.lamakbali.comStylishly modern traditional dining featuring steel interior designed by renowned sculptor Pintor Sirait. Little K Jl. Pengosekan - Padang, Tegal Ubud (Bali Spirit Yoga Barn’s Garden).Tel: 0361-970992.www.balispirit.comAwesome fresh breakfasts

and lunches. Sit in the garden and umbrellas provided. Open Tuesday to Sunday 9am – 4pm with Wifi also!

Laughing Buddha BarJl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-970928.Map Ref: P.7A cosy, vibrant and fun place to share tapas and sangria. The little sister of Jazz Cafe, the music is a treat, with great playlists and live gigs on Monday and Thursday, 8-11pm. Free Wi-fi 9am-6pm.

Maya Sari MasJl. Gunung Sari Peliatan, Tel: 0361-977888. Map Ref: K.17Maya Ubud's signature restaurant brings the best of local and imported ingredients to the table. International in flavour, each dish has been carefully crafted to inspire and please the international clientelle. Right next door is Maya Sari Asiatique, complete with a Teppanyaki counter and a myriad of Asian cuisines from Indonesian to Indian. MinamiJl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-970013. Map Ref: B.4Minami is an extremely high-quality Japanese restaurant with food tastes that are subtle and delicate. The large, double-ceilinged, three-sided dining room opens onto a garden courtyard, with only eight well-spaced tables inside and a couple more in the garden. Pure classic white and garden green predominate. The food is exquisite Japanese fare, beautifully prepared with

delicious variety. Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud.Telp: 975768www.mozaic-bali.comMap ref: B.3Enter Mozaic's Balinese doorway and you are guaranteed an evening of repose and pure enjoyment. A walkway leads you into a tropical garden and pavilion dining. The chef's Degustation or tasting menu offers you the ocassion to truly savour what is a parade of ever-changing culinary creations. Mozaic and Chef Chris Salans have been honoured around the world for the excellence of their cuisine, and the beauty of the setting, by being selected by the prestigous Traditions & Qualite as one of Les Grandes Tables du Monde. The wine list is also a favourite choice of Wine Spectator. Top class. Reservations essential.

Murni’s Warung Campuhan, Ubud.Tel: 0361- 975233. www.murnis.comShaded and riverside, Murni’s has been welcoming guests to lovely food and her eclectic antique and handicaft shop for years.

Naughty Nuri’s Warung Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud.Tel: 0361-977547. Best ribs, best sashimi tuna (Thursdays only), best grills, best mash – all topped off with draught beer, a Bloody Mary or a superb Martini. Some claim the latter are among the tastiest in the world, and we would have to agree (hic). Genial owner Brian is usualy on hand in a

corner seat somewhere, ready to welcome you into a world of enjoyment that may start over a quiet beer and extend late into the night. Seating here is a free-for-all...just sit down and take your chances. Naughty Nuri’s (named after Brian’s charming wife Nuri) is also something of a legend with Japanese and Chinese tourists, not to mention hordes from Jakarta who trek here on a regular basis, making sure this is one of the busiest and most popular restaurants in Bali, let alone Ubud. In fact sometimes it’s impossible to get a seat. So go early and enjoy the food, ambience and ribaldry of what has become a legendary roadside establishment.

Nomad Restaurant 35 Ubud Main StreetTel: 0361-977169 Fax: 975115Map Ref: K10Opened back in 1979 and an institution among travellers to Ubud for three decades, Nomad Restaurant is a popular gathering place for people of all nationalities, there to sample the local, Asian fusion and Western food from an eclectic menu that boasts a few special treats – Nomad-style Martabak, Fresh Prawn Lakso and a selection of Balinese tapas. Open from 9am every day, Nomad Restaurant uses no MSG or other food additives, and the staff is delightful.

Nuri’s Nacho Mamas Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977547. Just as it sounds...a part of Tijuana in Ubud with the added value of Nuri’s ribs if

Nuri’s is crowded!

Palm Grove Elephant Safari Park, Taro Tel: 0361-721480www.baliadventuretours.comA four-course fine dining experience like no other.Sit under the stars and palm fronds of Bali's pachyderm estate and enjoy excellent food and wine in one of Bali's most original and beautiful locations. Boasting rights and getting to tick off one of those 100-things-to-do boxes is definitely part of the evening. Bookings are a must.

Plantation Dining Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Tel: 0361-975963.Map Ref: A.2Think regal coconut columns and a 180 degree view of valley, river and tropical forest. Plantation Dining is Alila Ubud's dining venue specialising in Plantation Cuisine. Bold yet simple, fresh and organic, the menu offers both local, Asian and international dishes using the finest ingredients carefully crafted under the watchful eye of the Executive Chef Eelke Plasmeijer.

Pizza Bagus Jl. Raya Pengosekan.

Tel: 0361-978520. Eat in, take away or delivery!

Pundi-PundiJl. Raya Pengosekan,Ubud.Tel: 0361 -3084005 www.artinibaligroup.comMap ref: U.8Pundi-Pundi Grill & Asian restaurant sits right in the heart of Ubud serving the likes of Grilled Baby Back Pork Ribs, Pundi Grilled Duck and Nasi Bakar Lotus.

Rendezvous Doux Jl. Raya Ubud.Tel: 0361-7470163International airconditioned library and cafe with all-day screenings.

Ryoshi Jl. Raya, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972192. Dependable Japanese food on two levels and tatami seating.

Sakti Living Foods RestaurantFivelements Healing CentreBanjar Baturning, Mambal.Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.orgNeil harden – raw and living food guru – came, saw and passed on the knowledge to master chef Made Runatha.This vegan eatery, set in an ecological master–build bamboo pavilion, awakens your taste buds with healthful organic ingredients. If you thought vegan food was less than appetising, it's time you tasted again.

Siam Sally Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-980777. www.baligoodfood.com/siam-sally Map Ref: V.9After years of exploring

the food of Thailand, and intensive cooking with Thai home chefs, the owners of Siam Sally have finally introduced excellent Thai cuisine to Ubud. Popular among tourists and locals alike, Siam Sally delivers fresh, homestyle Thai food in a spectacular setting. You can start your journey on the comfy sofas downstairs with an innovative cocktail menu and some shared food. Co-owner/chef Karen Waddell starts you off with Roasted green chili “salsa” with rice cracker, Siam Palace Lom dip, or the hawker stall favorite, hoy Tod, a crisp mussel fritter served with a housemade fiery Sriracha chili sauce. Curries are cooked up with house-ground spice pastes and fresh coconut milk, and the market style noodle dishes are fabulous, ditto the wok-seared creations and Fried Chicken and Som Tam papaya salad, a recipe inspired by a favourite food stall in Bangkok’s Jatujak market. Non Thai food and Vegan also available. Open seven days a week. Early dining birds (seated by 7pm) get a 20 percent discount when booking Table Five (food only).

Terazzo Jl. Suweta, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978941. www.baligoodfood.comMap ref: h.8London’s Financial Times described Terazo as having food at a “price and quality that would embarrass your average London restaurateur”. And it’s true, Terazo delivers ultra-fresh pan-Asian and international cuisine in stylish

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surroundings. Located in Ubud on quiet Suweta Street, just a stone’s throw from the centre of town, Terazo restaurant and bar is designed in a colonial modern style by international design firm hananto Lloyd. It features banquette dining, a stylish lounge and mahogany bar downstairs. Casual glam awaits you in the dining room upstairs. Open daily from 10am to midnight, Terazo offers exquisite food and wine from across the globe.

Three Monkeys Café Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975554. Excellent starters and the desserts are mouthwatering.

The Green House Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978189.Pan-Asian cuisine in a modern luxury glasshouse setting, to be followed by a chill–out session with cocktails upstairs in the Party Lounge.

Warung Buddha Bar & Grill Jl. Goutama, Ubud. Tel: 8686705 Open for lunch and dinner with live big-match broadcasts from ESPN, Star Sports, Euro Sports and others.

Warung Enak Jl. Raya Pangosekan, Ubud.Tel: 0361-972911. www.warungenakbali.com Excellent Balinese and local fare with some highly amusing, if a tad risque, decor!

West End Café Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978363.

In Ubud’s flourishing west end (Mozaic, Nuri’s, Minami et al) is the West End Café. The cool and colourful décor is a welcoming respite to guests in need of food, refreshment and a place to relax.

SSPASAyung Spa at Ubud Hanging GardensDesa Buahan, Desa Payangan,.Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens.com In pure Balinese style, the resort’s Ayung Spa offers three luxurious pavilions dedicated to relaxation and well-being. Each pavilion comprises two large spaces; one with two massage beds and a Balinese sofa, the other with a dressing area and bathroom with a bath that is surrounded by water and looks out onto the river. Ayung Spa at Maya Ubud has won countless international accolades and Best Spa at The Yak Awards 2008... goes without saying – it is fabulous!

Eve Body Treatment CentreEve 1: Jl. Penestanan Kelod.Tel: 0361-979356.Eve 2 & 3: Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-7470910 & 973236.The Day Spa Specialists.Eve – Body Treatment Centre offers professional service at affordable prices.

FivelementsBanjar Baturning, Mambal.Tel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.orgWelcome to Ubud's newest

and most thorough healing centre. Riverside treatments rooms transport you into another world. Two healing pools – Watsu and Water Dancing – realign your vibration, and Bali's top healing hands cleanse, support and reawaken your very soul. Bookings essential.

KUSHJl hanoman.Tel: 0361-971 236Map Ref: O.10happiness in name (Sanskrit) and happiness in aim - balance, calm, strength and contentment through an

incredible variety of massages and treatments. From gentle Abhyanga to Kati Basti, through a hot house session in the Infra-red sauna.Facials, hand and feet rituals using ancient Indian techniques promote cellular healing and alleviate strains of Modern Day existence and put one in the Ubud frame of mind. Time to turn off your handphone!

Spa AlilaDesa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Tel: 0361-975963.Map Ref: A.2Spa addicts unite. The Spa Alila has created a total concept for die-hard Alila-ites. Using their own blended products and those of Decleor, the Alila therapists wrap you in seaweed, masage

you with warm stones, relax you with frankincense resin, even tend to your Third Eye with Shirodara. When having an Alila treatment think fresh ingredients that smell sublime...

Spa Villas at Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.comMap Ref: L.4The resort’s Spa Villa concept boasts four single treatment villas and two double spa villas overlooking the Campuhan river. Treatments include traditional Indonesian beauty and massage therapies.

Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K.18Below the hotel nestles the riverside Spa at Maya...a haven of sensual bliss with double treatment pavillions and a spa treatment list that includes a gentle four–hand massage, relaxing Balinese massage, natural facials and body scrubs and treatments tailor-made for men.

Skin Organic Jl. Gootama 24, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975615. www.skinorganic.infoPetite and organic spa on Gootama, Ubud’s up–and–coming 'chic street'.

Taman Rahasia Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Tel: 0361-979395. www.balisecretgarden.com

Affordable treatments in the gardens of The Secret Garden. Birds sing, flowers scent the air and the masssages just flow...

Ubud Sari Health ResortJl. Kajeng 35, Ubud.Tel: 0361-974393. www.ubudsari.comLook out over Mumbul river and treat yourself to a number of beauty and semi-medical treatments, colonics, fasting programmes and retreats. CranioSacral Therapy, Reiki and Deep Tissue Body Work rejuvenates the mind and revitalizes the body. A number of one, three day raw health programmes up to a two week total revitalization retreat completes the detoxifying package whilst the Salon De'elegance keeps the face and body glowing like royalty.

Kirana SpaDesa Kedewatan, Ubud. Telp: 0361-976333. www.kiranaspa.com

Uma Ubud SpaJl. Sanggingan.Telp: 0361-972448.www.umaubud.como.bzMap Ref: B.5This Zen inspired spa already calms the spirit on entering. Add to that the excellence of COMO Shambhala’s exclusive products and unique massage therapies and one has, quite simply, entered heaven.

TteXtiLeS

Macan TidurPuri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10, Ubud.

Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur-textiles.com. Map Ref: L.7Unique and varied collection of woven and hand-dyed textiles, clothes and sarongs from all over the Indonesian Archipelago. Many with story-telling themes such as the Western tapestries, but woven instead of knotted or sewn.

Threads of LifeJl. Kajeng 24, Ubud. Tel: 0361-976581 & 976582. www.threadsoflife.com Maintaining and promoting traditional forms of weaving and cloth making, Threads of Life Gallery works closely

with weavers from the Islands of Savu and the rest of the Indonesian archipelago. handmade traditional textiles from Bali, Flores, Java, Kalimantan, Sulawesi, Sumba and Timor are exhibited at the gallery. In the dry months check out their specialised 'Weaving tours' around the islands of Nusa Tenggara - east of Bali. Open daily from 10am-7pm.

UUDENG Traditional headcloth worn by men; called ‘dastar’ in high Balinese.

VVEDAS Four holy books of the Aryans, dating from about 1,000BC; the Aryans were not Hindu, but they laid some of the most important foundations of Hinduism; the Vedas are considered sacred by Balinese Hindus; the Rig Veda is the best known of the four and is probably the oldest religious text in the world.

WWALKiNG

Just go! There are many wonderful walks in every direction from Ubud, through villages, rice terraces, jungle gorges, and grassy hilltops. Don’t be afraid. Just strike out in any direction. You can walk anywhere you like, without “trespassing”. Don’t be shy, just be courteous. The best of the Ubud area is off the roads, so grab a map, or just go rambling without one. Often the best discoveries are purely coincidental and can’t be found in any guidebook. If you prefer to follow a good leader, day treks are offered by adventure guides under our Adventure listing.

WeDDiNGS

Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.elephantsafariparklodge.comFeatured in international television travel programmes, getting married atop an elephant - with your entourage hanging out in a traditional

Javanese pavilion surrounded by 30ft commemorative wedding flags - is one of those events that will make a lifetime dream come true, you will even have the photos and videos to prove it! (In reality wedding vows take place on the ground).

Maya UbudJl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan.Tel: 0361-977 888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K.18Maya Ubud is a truly stunning property that sits on the bend of a river amid established tropical forest. It oozes Bali chic, so it's no surprise that this is a popular spot for weddings, whether large or small. More than 100 rooms and villas set in equatorial Bali bliss give you the option of a big event that still feels like an exclusive and intimate ceremony. Packages start at $1,558. Maya offers you the full spectrum of wedding services, from spa treatments to photography and entertainment.

Uma UbudJl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud.Tel: 0361-972448.www.uma.como.bzMap ref: A.2With just 29 rooms, Uma Ubud offers the opportunity for an exclusive wedding for up to 60 guests in a lush contemporary property that oozes style and sophistication. Take over the entire property or opt for a more intimate wedding a deux or with a small group of close friends. Uma is part of the worldclass Como brand, so you'll be in good company whichever way you decide to go.

the list

the list

Wanasmara Chapel,Komaneka at BismaJl. Bisma UbudTel: 0361-971933.www.komaneka.comMap Ref: L.4Wanasmara Chapel is built as a place to celebrate love! Wonderfully positioned among the tropical treetops and dense foliage alongside the Campuhan River, the Chapel is made almost entirely of wood and glass, with a unique touch of Toraja thrown in. Capable of seating 48 guests, this is truly a stunning setting in which to tie the knot. Basic wedding packages start at US$2900++. For more details, email wedding@komaneka.com

WiLDLiFe

Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Singapadu, Batubulan. Tel: 0361-299352. www.bali-bird-park.com

Bali Safari & Marine Park Jl. Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra, Gianyar. Tel: 0361-950000. www.balisafarimarinepark.com

Bali Zoo Singapadu, Gianyar. Tel: 0361- 294357www.bali-zoo.com

Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.baliadventuretours.com Part of the respected Bali Adventure Tours company, the Elephant Safari Park at Taro is a world class retreat for pachyderms and their

admirers. This is an extremely well put together attraction guaranteed to be a hit with all the family. An official member of the World Zoo Association, the Park meets International Standards for animal care and is set in more than 3.5 hectares of exotic eco-landscaped botanical gardens, surrounded by national forest. Facilities include a full Reception and Information Centre, a comprehensive Museum, with a large collection of elephant memorabilia and the only Mammoth Skeleton in South East Asia. Elephants can be seen bathing in the park lake, in between riding, painting or other activities. hand-feed them, touch them, take photos with them, then learn more about the elephants ancestry and diversity at the Park’s historical and graphic displays. It’s all about the elephants, however – get up close and personal with these incredible animals in a beautiful tropical park setting. You can also stay in one of 25 luxury lodges set within the grounds, or simply visit for the day.

WORKSHOPS

Sari Api Ceramic StudioCeramic Workshop Jl. Suweta 176 Bentuyung, Tel: 0361-977917. www.rose.ne.jp/~ojara/bali/sariapi

Cultural WorkshopAgung Rai Museum of Art. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud.Tel: 0361-975742. www.armamuseum.com

Nirvana Batik CoursesNirvana, Jl. Gautama 10, Padangtegal Kaja, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975415. www.nirvanaku.com

Pranoto’s Art GalleryPrivate Painting LessonsPranoto’s Art Gallery. Jl. Raya Ubud, Kutuh Kelod, Ubud. Telp: 0361-970827. www.age.jp/~pranoto/

Painting ClassUbud hanging Gardens, Desa Buahan, Desa Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens.com

Silversmithing Courses Studio Perak. Jl. hanoman.Tel: 0361-7801879. www.studioperak.com

Thread’s of Life GalleryJl. Kajeng 24 Ubud. Tel: 0361-972187. www.threadsoflife.com

YYAYASAN/CHARitieS

Yayasan Bumi SehatNyuh Kuning, PO Box 116, Ubud, Bali 80571. Tel: 0361-972969. www.bumisehatbali.org

Yayasan IDEPJl. hanoman No. 42, Ubud. Telp: 0361- 981504. www.idepfoundation.org

YOGA

Intuitive Flow Jl. Penestanan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977824www.intuitiveflow.com

The Yoga BarnJl. Pengoseken, Padang TegalTel: 0361-970992. www.theyogabarn.comMap Ref: O.10Bali’s premier yoga centre located in the heart of Ubud. Offers yoga classes, pilates, dance, meditation, detox & cleansing, teacher trainings, special events, workshops and retreats. An instant connection to holistic Bali.

Uma UbudJl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-972448.www.umaubud.como.bzMap Ref: B.4Stretch and Savour, every Sunday at Uma Ubud Yoga Studio is a must attend program that will certainly give you a stretching and savoring impression. This is the "Stretch and Savor" Sunday Yoga Breakfast. For Rp. 295,000 ++ per person you will experience a one hour yoga session starting at 8:00 a.m. followed by breakfast showcasing healthful COMO Shambhala Cuisine specially prepared by Chef Amanada Gale. Wear something comfortable, leave all the hustle and bustle, and head to Uma Ubud. Tel: 975 024 www.umaubud.como.bz

PeRFORMANCe SCHeDuLeS

the list

VeNue

Ubud PalacePadang Tegal KajaOka KartiniArma MuseumLotus Pond Open StageBentuyung Village***Batukaru TempleBalerung ManderaBale Banjar Ubud Kelod

VeNue

Ubud PalaceJunjungan Village ***WantilanPura Dalem Ubud Bale Banjar Ubud KelodARMA Museum ***

Pondok Bamboo

VeNue

Ubud Palace Pura Desa KutuhPadang Tegal KelodMonkey ForestBalerung Stage ***Pura Dalem UbudLotus Pond Open Stage

Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

VeNue

Ubud PalaceOka KartiniYamasari Stage ***Padang Tegal Pura Dalem Ubud Pura Dalem Taman KajaARMA Museum ***

Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

MAP ReF.

I.7O.8K.12U.101.7–––

J.7

MAP ReF.

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–U.10

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PM

7.307.008.007.307.307.007.307.307.30

PM

7.307.007.007.307.307.30

8.00

PM

7.307.307.308.007.307.307.30

7.30

PM

7.308.007.307.007.007.307.00

7.30

SuNDAYS

Legong of MahabarataKecak Fire & Trance DanceWayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet)The Peliatan MasterJangerJegog (Bamboo Gamelan)Kecak Fire & Trance DanceDancers & Musician of PeliatanPondok Pekak Gamelan & Dance

MONDAYS

Legong DancesKecak Fire (Monkey Chant Dance)Barong & Keris DanceKecak Ramayana & Fire DanceWomen Gamelan & Dance GroupLegong Telek

Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet)

tueSDAYS

Ramayana BalletSpirit of Bali Kecak Fire & Trance DanceWayang Kulit (Shadow Pupet)Legong DanceLegong Dance Women Gamelan w/Children Dancers

Narita Dewi Gamelan & Dance

WeDNeSDAYS

Legong & Barong DanceWayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Legong Dance Kecak & Fire DanceJegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Topeng Jimat Chandra Wira Buana

PeRFORMANCe SCHeDuLeS

eVeRY 1St. AND 15tH: Gambuh Dance

VeNue: Pura Desa Batuan *** tiMe: 7.00 PM

eVeRY FuLL MOON & NeW MOON: Kecak Rina Dance

VeNue: ARMA Museum *** tiMe: 7.00 PM

*** Free transport from Ubud Tourist Information, ask them for detail (0361) 973285. Entrance fees are between Rp. 50.000,- to Rp. 150.000,-Ticket for these performances can obtained at: Ubud Tourist Information, Jl. Raya Ubud, phone : 973285; ticket sellers on the street or the place of the performances. The price is the same wherever you buy it.

the list

MAP ReF.

I.7–

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tHuRSDAYS

Legong Trance & Paradise DanceKecak (Monkey Chant Dance) Legong DanceThe Barong & Keris Dance Barong & Keris Dance with Children Dancers Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Kecak Fire & Trance DanceWayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet)

Mepantigan Arts

FRiDAYS

Barong DanceLegong & Barong Dance Kecak & Fire DanceWayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Barong & Keris Dance

Women Gamelan

SAtuRDAYS

Legong DanceLegong Dance Kecak Fire & Trance DanceWayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet)Legong DanceFrog DanceBeauty of LegongKecak Fire & Trance Dance

Wayang Wong

VeNue

Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan ***Pura Desa Kutuh ***Pura Dalem UbudUbud Water PalacePura Taman Sari Batukaru TemplePondok Bamboo

ARMA Museum ***

VeNue

Ubud Palace Balerung StagePura Padang KerthaOka Kartini Bentuyung Village ***Pura Dalem UbudARMA Museum ***

Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

VeNue

Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan ***Padang TegalMonkey Forest Ubud Water Palace Pondok Pekak Pura Dalem UbudPura Dalem Taman Kaja

ARMA Museum ***

PM

7.30 7.307.307.307.307.30 7.30 8.00

6.30

PM

7.307.307.008.007.007.306.00

7.30

PM

7.307.307.008.007.307.307.307.30

7.00

HEALTH Bali Spirit Tel: 0361-971236 www.theyogabarn.com IFC Bud Map O.10

FivelementsTel: 0361-469206 www.fivelements.org P.9 Bud Map D.3

Sayan Aesthetic Institute Tel: 0361-972648 www.aestheticbali .com P.36 Bud Map D.3

HOTEL Komaneka Tel: 0361-976090 www.komaneka.com P.11 Bud Map L.4/P.7

Maya Ubud Tel: 0361-977888 www.mayaubud.com P.3 Bud Map K.17

Tepi Sawah Villas Tel: 0361-970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com P.14 Bud Map E.6

The Samaya Ubud Tel: 0361-973606 www.thesamayabali.com P.7 Bud Map F.1

Wanita View VillaTel: 0361-08123883559 mmccoy@cielsanto.com P.2

Warwik Ibah Hotel Tel: 0361-974466 www.warwickibah.com P.2 Bud Map h.4

MEDIA Mango VisionTel: 0361-8446341www.mangovision.tvP.10 MISC.yPod Bali - iTunes APPTel: 0361-8446341 www.theyakmag.com P.65 PROPERTY Exotiq Ubud Tel: 0361-974153 ubudbali@exotiqrealestate.com P.3 Bud Map K.12 Ubud Property Tel: 0361-970888 www.ubudproperty.com P.10 Bud Map K.14 RECREATION Bali Adventure Tours Tel: 0361-721480 www.baliadventuretours.com IBC Bud Map C.3

RESTAURANTAry's Warung Tel: 0361-975053 www.decko.com P.1 Bud Map I.7

Bar Luna Tel: 0361-971832 www.casalunabali.com P.13 Bud Map L.9

Bebek Tepi Sawah Tel: 0361-970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com P.14 Bud Map E.6

Han SnelTel: 0361-8410505www.hansnelrestaurant.com P.36 Bud Map h.7

Ibu Rai Restaurant Tel: 0361-973472 www.iburai.com P.5 Bud Map K.8

Jazz Café Tel: 0361-976594 www.jazzcafebali.com P.15 Bud Map L.12

Laughing Buddha Bar Tel: 0361-970928 info@laughingbuddhabar.net P.15 Bud Map P.7

Mozaic Tel: 0361-975768 www.mozaic-bali.com P.5 Bud Map B.3 SHOPArtisan Tel: 0361-7450791 P. 13www.artisanestate.com

Biasa Fashion Tel: 0361-8878002 www.biasabali.com BC Bud Map A.3

Galaxyan Jewelery Tel: 0361-971430 www.galaxyanjewels.com P.36 Bud Map C.3

Macan Tidur Tel: 0361-977121www.macantidur.com / www.susijohnston.com P.15 Bud Map K.7

Periplus www.periplus.co.id P.36 Bud Map B.4

Victor Mason su_birdwalk@yahoo.com P.9

aDVertiser’s DirectOry

NATIONAL & INTERNATIONALThe Bud is available in selected outlets in Jakarta, Singapore, Malaysia and Brunei, in airport and hotel business lounges, as well as in selected villas, hotels and partner venues in Seminyak and throughout Bali.

NATIONALThe Bud is also on sale in outlets of Circle K stores in Bali, including Seminyak, Kuta, Legian, Tuban, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Denpasar and Sanur, and at selected distribution points in Ubud, including Periplus bookstores at Monkey Forest, Bintang Supermarket and Tino’s, as well as in Ary’s Bookshop, Alila Shop Ubud, Coffee & Silver, Fly Cafe Restaurant, Komaneka Shop, Laughing Buddha, Murni’s Warung and Verona salon.

VENUE COPIESAlila hotel UbudAdi’s Gallery Ubud Amandari Resort Ubud

Arma Resort Ary’s WarungAston NandiniBali Animal Welfare Association Bali Masari Villas Bali Spirit Bali Bird Park BARC Bar LunaBatan Waru Restaurant Bloomz Flower Bumbu Bali Bumi Sehat Café Des Artistes Casa Luna Restaurant Cinta Restaurant Coffee & Silver Como Shambhala Dirty Duck Elephant Safari ParkEsthetique Clinic Fly Café Four Seasons SayanGalaxyan JewelryGaya Gallery Green School Bali highwayhorizon Glassworks Macan TidurMaya Ubud Resort and SpaMozaic BaliIbu Rai Restaurant

Indochine Restaurant Indus Restaurant Jazz Café Restaurant JFF JewelryKamandalu Kayu Manis Villa Komaneka Kori Resort Kupu-Kupu Barong Lamak RestaurantLaughing Buddha BarMaya hotel UbudMinami Mozaic Restaurant Murni’s Warung Museum Rudana Nacho Mamas Naughty Nuri’s Neka Museum Nomad Restaurant Paul Ropp Pundi - Pundi RestaurantRendezvousdoux Restaurant Rio helmi Royal Pita Maha Resort and Villas Taal Seniwati Gallery Siam SallySkin OrganicSobek Adventure RaftingTama Gallery Taman hati

Tegal SariTerazo Restaurant The Café The Chedi Club The Green house The Mansion hotel The Shop The Viceroy Bali/Cascades Three Monkeys Cafe Tony Raka Ubud TreasuresTutmak Restaurant Ubud hanging Gardens Ubud PropertyUbud Sari Ubud Village ResortUma hotel Ubud Verona Salon Wah GalleryWarwick Ibah hotel UbudWest End Café Wina Gallery

THE BUD is in 33 outlets of Mini Mart stores in Bali.

DistributiON list

FOUR SEASONS

VILLA KIRANA

Sayan Aesthetic

KAYU MANIS THE CHEDI CLUB

THE VICEROY BALI

INDUSPITA MAHA

TEPI SAWAH VILLAS

KUPU KUPU BARONG

AMANDARI

UMA UBUD

Tegalalang

Ubud Klod

Ubud Kaja

Taman Klod

Kusia GalleryWest End Cafe

Rudana Museum Tanah Gajah0 .5km 1km 1.5km

Gaya Gallery

As One

Naughty Nuri’s

MinamiBiasa

MozaicSobek Adventure Rafting

Bali Adventure Rafting

to The Samayato Fivelements

Periplus

The Shop

Paul Ropp

Horizon Glasswork

FNPF

Payangan

SayanMas

to Como Shambhala, Alila, Komaneka & Ubud Hanging Gardens

UBUD

Cascades

WAKA NAMYA

KOMANEKA BISMA

KOMANEKA

UBUD INN

UBUD VILLAGE HOTEL

WARWICK IBAHUBUD SARI

Murni’sWarung

HanSnel

Cafe Des Artistes Macan

Tidur

Taal

JF-FPuri Lukisan

Lotu

s

Art Zoo

JL. K

AJEN

G

JL. S

RI W

EDA

RI

JL. S

AN

DAT

JL. T

IRTA

TAW

AR

JL. J

ERO

GA

ND

UN

G

JL. B

ISM

A

JL. DEWI SITA

JL. G

OO

TAM

A

JL. W

ANAR

A W

ANA

JL. R

AYA

JL. NYUH KUNING

PEN

GO

SEKA

N

JL. H

ANO

MAN

JL. GUNUNG SARI

JL. J

EMBA

WA

N

JL. S

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NG

GA

JL. S

UG

RIW

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JL. S

UKM

A (T

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(MO

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REST

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JL. PENESTANAN JL. S

UW

ETA

Casa LunaAry’s Warung

Rio Helmi

Gusti Lempad’s6:00 - 18:00

Kupu Kupu Foundation Gallery

Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women

To ELephantSafari Park

Neka GalleryExotiq

TerazoBumbu Bali I

Ibu Oka

Rendezvous

RUMAH RIO

THE VICEROY BALI

Nomad

Galaxyan Atelier

Galaxyan AtelierBa

tan

War

uAl

amka

raBa

r Lun

a

Sagu

Skin Organic

Dragonfly

Hanoman Juice Bar

Deli Cat

Tutmak

Ibu Rai

Pondok Pekak Library

Alamkara

Cafe WayanGreenhouse

Coffee & Silver

Coffee & Copper

Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana

Entrance fee: Adults Rp. 15,000 Children Rp. 7,500

Sacred Monkey Forest Santuary

Laka Leke

Warung EnakPundi-Pundi

Cafe Arma

Flava LoungeHanna Art Space

Gajah Gallery

Genta

Pizza BagusGemala Jewelery

Bamboo Foundation

Dirty Duck

Siam Sally

Ateliers

Agung Rai Museum of Art

Rudana

Agung Rai Gallery

Rudana Museum

Tanah Merah

WahTama

Gallery

Milano

Lamak

CintaLaughing Buddha

Bumbu Bali II

Three Monkeys

Verona

Bodyworks

Bali SpiritTegunThe Kafe

Highway

Bali Buddha

GaneshaBookstore

Jazz Cafe

Sukma

Super Market

Ubud Property Pura Gunung Sari

Pura Dalem Puri

TEGALALANG 10kmTARO 16kmKINTAMANI 22km

DENPASAR 26kmvia MAS

To Tony Raka Gallery

Cascades

Siwa Ratih

ARMA RESORT

BEBEK TEPI SAWAH

MAYA UBUD

NATURA RESORT

UBUD VILLAGE RESORT

BlancoRenaissanceMuseum

JL. RAYA UBUD

JL. COK PUTRA S.

JL. C

OK

GD

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L. P

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TAN

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JL. R

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W

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Y

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WE

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

MONKEYFORESTROADPura Dalem Agung Temple

Pura Prajapati Cemetary

ENTRANCE

ENTRANCE

Padang Tegal

Tebesaya

Nyuh Kuning

Pengosekan

Dangin Lebak

Andong

Peliatan

Adi’s Art Studio & Gallery Market

Place

Art gallery

Automatic teller

Bridge

Dance theatre

Deer pen

Information

Money changer

KEY

Monkey forest

Museum

One way street

Place of interest

Police station

Post office

Sports field

Temple

HOTEL/VILLA

Restaurant/Bar

Bar/Nightclub

Shop

Spa/Salon

Misc.

Infinity Gallery

Don Song-Inspired DecorationGlass & 18kt gold

By Jean Francois Fichot (JFF).

Crystal Dorgee Pendant NecklaceColombia emeralds, antique crystal quartz,

silver chain and 22kt gold detailing.By Jean Francois Fichot (JFF).

Acclaimed jewellers gather talents at Treasures in Ubud for a unique selection of precious charms.

seNses

seNses

Ashanti Necklace22kt gold.

Turquoise bead.By Jean Francois Fichot (JFF)

Fossilized Coral Necklace.Multi-coloured, natural fossilized

coral from Indonesia.Fine quality seed pearls and 14 kt gold.

Fossilized Coral RingNatural fossilized coral in six colour

“flower” pattern,18kt gold.

Designer details on inquiry.

seNses

Drops Earrings18kt rose gold.

Pink amethyst, fresh water pearl and pink tourmaline.From Roc Collection.

By Nagicia.

Singular Roc Ring18kt rose gold.

Rose quartz.From Roc Collection.

By Nagicia.

For more information on Treasures : www.dekco.com

seNses

ObsessiONs

“ThREADS of Life” says it all for communities throughout the archipelago that create intricately woven textiles that speak of a cultural warp and spiritual weft.

It also happens to be the name of an Ubud-based company that, since 1997, has collected fabric and textiles from places near and far for presentation to a discerning buying public.

Threads of Life was founded by Englishman, William Ingram, and his wife, Jean howe, an American, after they had spent some years living in Ubud and guiding tour groups through Bali.

“Over the years (the tour business) expanded from Bali to Eastern Indonesia and when you’re traveling through Eastern Indonesia, (there are) two obvious ways to start talking to the local people about their culture: textiles and architecture – the material culture that you see,”

William says.“We became more and more interested in

the textiles because it becomes a way also to put money into a local community, and gives members of the tour group something to take home.

“It seems to be a win-win situation.”William says indigenous architectural culture

has not lost its allure for himself and Jean but most people on tour don’t really want to buy a house.

Textiles, however, had always been one of Jean’s interests and William said that in the beginning they “sort of went over my head”. That is until he realised what fascinating cultural artifacts they were.

“And then one of our Balinese partners in the tour business became very interested in the

Andrew Hall visits Threads of Life, the Ubud-based indigenous textile company that's working with communities to sustain traditional fabric production.

natural dyes (used in creating textile artwork),” William says.“After that, our other partner developed an interest in the cultural side – the meaning and use of

textiles within a culture.”One of William’s past incarnations involved developing community-based economic systems when

he worked for a London-based NGO. he says that his interest is still primarily in the economic aspects of indigenous textile production while Jean’s is more oriented to the aesthetic and artistic aspects.

“So with our Balinese partners we have four core pillars that we’re still working with,” he says.An interesting quote found on the Threads of Life website states: “In Indonesia the seasons are

stitched together with cotton”. I asked William to expand on that. “We find that within the communities we’re working with there are specific cultural uses of fabrics

and textiles,” he said.“Whenever there’s a particular ceremony going on – and these often involve agricultural cycle rites,

so that specifically becomes seasonal – people will be wearing traditional dress.“Textiles are involved when offerings are made, especially in communities where the people are

animistic, and these ceremonies are usually seasonal. And then you have weddings and funerals, which are often seasonal as well, where textiles are exchanged as gifts.

“The (fabric) production cycle itself is a dry season process and is supplementary to communities’ agricultural cycles.”

In the Threads of Life retail outlet in Ubud there is a significant collection of textiles and other cultural artifacts from Bali, Flores, Java, Sulawesi, Sumba and Timor, to name just a few. But in addition to displaying goods for sale, the place is also an educational centre for those who wish to take home more than just a souvenir of their travels.

In 2002 the Threads of Life crew’s increasing fascination with textiles and the social and cultural processes surrounding their production and use culminated in the creation of Yayasan Pecinta Budaya Bebali (literally: foundation for the love of Balinese culture). And a new focus evolved from the business orientation of previous years.

While the Yayasan’s name implies a Bali-centric focus, its conservation efforts extend into most of the communities that have been integral to the success of the Threads of Life business.

“We were traveling to Lamalera on the island of Lembata (the whaling community) and we were talking to the weavers there about the decline in their textile tradition . . . and that’s when we started thinking about the idea of commissioning,” William said.

“We replicated that idea throughout several other communities over the course of the next few years.

ObsessiONs

“Initially we thought that the problem (why these traditions were fading out) was a time and money one – that weavers couldn’t afford to take the year, or sometimes two years, to make natural-dyed, handspun textiles“.

“And the highest value pieces, culturally, (the pieces used in ceremonies), pieces that required intricate natural dyeing and hand-spinning processes, were the ones that were being lost“.

“So that level of complexity for the culture was being abandoned.”

Over the years, William says, the team realised there was another problem, as big if not bigger than the time and money issues, and it existed in the realm of natural resource depletion.

“A rapidly changing environment (due to) changes in forestry use and a shift in land use practices, generally, is threatening the availability of plants that are essential to the manufacture of textiles,” he says.

“There is a big issue there and it was suddenly something that was beyond the capacity of the business model to deal with. hence the foundation got established – by our partners and members of our Balinese staff.”

The YPBB foundation currently has six full-time field workers (who are supplemented by the Ubud-based staff) working with local communities in an effort to address the complex issues in conserving – and in many cases re-establishing – dye plant resources.

The foundation has also come up against some important social issues within communities in as much as the weaving and dyeing of textiles is almost exclusively the domain of women.

“An accident in choosing to focus on natural dyes is that you have to get the husbands involved in the cultivation and harvesting of the dye plants,” William says.

“So that gives them a sense of ownership and a sense of participation in the process“.

“It’s a basic development strategy to put money into the hands of the women in a family (because she’s more likely to spend it on the family’s welfare). But if you suddenly

change the balance of income . . . money is power and there is risk of changing the power structure of the family. It can create conflict“.

“But getting the guys involved in dye harvesting and cultivation gives them a buy-in . . . it sort of blurs that edge (in community/family politics). So we really haven’t had a problem with that."

The foundation – in association with an ethno-botanist from Australia – has identified about 250 species of plants used in the dyeing and manufacture, many of which are under threat from transformational land use practices.

“There are basically only two colours – blue and red. The blue comes from the indigo plant and the red from the bark of the root of the Morinda tree. All the other plant products are used in the modification and application processes of the two basic colours. And some of them even have a more magical, rather than chemical significance,” William says.

“The more you look into it, the more fascinating it gets“.

“But the change in land usage in West Kalimantan, for instance, has been so dramatic that local weaving communities there can’t re-grow the Morinda tree. So while the foundation is working on that problem, we’re also trying to facilitate trade from growers on Sumba to keep the Kalimantan weaving culture going.”

Trade in textiles has been a part of local economies in Indonesia for centuries. In recent times, however, the demand for textile goods is increasing but the natural resources required to manufacture them are decreasing.

“What we’re trying to do (through the foundation) is to figure out how to make the trade sustainable,” William says.

In addition to environmental and economic practicalities and pragmatics, however, and importantly, the YPBB foundation is also very focused on ensuring that weaving communities throughout the archipelago are able to conserve and sustain their own, highly individual, textile-related cultures and traditions.

ObsessiONs

A work in progress,by Diana Darling.

t r a n s i t

ields

fictiON

GUSTI Agung Saru missed his wife. he had been widowed for nearly twenty years, and he missed his wife with a constant, habitual ache like the incipient rheumatism in his left knee. It was an ache that sometimes became sharp and seized him at unexpected moments ¬ such as when he saw his daughter Ratu Ayu undo and retie her chignon ¬ and always when he felt stymied by problems that fell in the strange area between matters of state and the personal, such as the natural marriage of their children. In regard to the royal twins, Gusti Agung lived in a state of anxious ambiguity. It had never been clearly established that they were reincarnations of Sri Masula-Masuli, the brother-sister rulers of ancient Bali. The trance ritual meant to name the reincarnating ancestors had produced no names at all ¬ only dire prophesy. Moreover, he was aware that the Dutch ¬ that looming power closing in on the island ¬ objected to exceptional love relationships of this sort, in the same way that they showed no understanding of the rite of widow sacrifice. The shadow

of Dutch prudishness could fall as well over his grandson Ratu Manik, weakening his stature as heir and leaving him vulnerable to challenges from other princes.

And now the Dutch were occupying the coastal waters of his kingdom, interfering in the most provocative way with the kingdom's commerce, even forbidding his subjects from fishing. What king ¬ what man? ¬ could endure such an insult? Gusti Agung Saru felt a weightlessness next to him where his wife should be. he summoned his advisors.

The high priest, now elderly, said, “Your esteem is grounded in right conduct. The kingdom is strong as long as you hold fast to your principles.”

“Besides,” said the prime minister, now slightly overweight, “the kingdom is still rich in rice fields. The neighboring kingdoms are friendly. The blockade is inconvenient, but it doesn't threaten us as long as the people have enough to eat.”

“It's an outrage,” said the king.

(14)

(15)

“IT'S outrageous,” said Willem, throwing a letter onto his desk. “The Raja is now demanding that we pay damages for the loss of his customs duties. At fl.3,750 per day. Do you realize what kind of sum that is?”

“Maybe it means that they're starting to feel the pain of the blockade,” said Zwart. “Although I doubt it. It's been only six weeks.” (The king's letter was dated 10 February 1905.) “Tarik Tamu is pretty well off.”

Indeed the people of Tarik Tamu were fortunate in having a remarkably advanced notion of wealth: they needed very little to feel rich. Most of the population were rice farmers; and most of the farmers owned enough land to feed their families and have something left over for the gods, the king, and the market. Much else of what they consumed grew freely in their back yards: coconuts, tubers, bananas, vegetables, medicinal roots; they kept livestock. The climate was gentle, blessed with predictable seasons of rain and sunshine. The people needed very little clothing. Timber and bamboo were abundant for shelter and fuel, of which they needed little. Growing rice required periods of hard work, but it left plenty of time in the rice cycle for doing other things, such as composing fiendishly complicated melodies and carving elaborate designs on stone and wood for their temples. Above all, their minds were at ease because the techniques for dealing with life and death had been worked out centuries before by their ancestors; they had only to live accordingly. Naturally, like all human beings, they were sometimes afflicted by disease, plagues, accidents, and grief; but most people faced even these ills with deep resources of humor.

A number of punggawas, however, realized that an upset of the economic balance of the community could threaten its social harmony. As they said to the king when they called on him one day as a group, “Our people are patient in the face of disaster, as you know, your highness; but if they feel unfairly disadvantaged, they can go wild. For the sake of peace in the realm, we would like to raise the money to pay off the Chinaman and end the blockade.”

Gusti Agung Saru replied, “It's out of the question. Do not speak of this again.”

The Chinese, Arab, and Bugis merchants of Kuta, too, were unhappy with the blockade. Deliveries from the north coast over the inland route through the neighboring kingdom of Tabanan were slow. Goods often arrived soggy; crates sometimes arrived half-open and half-empty. Their accounting became a nightmare. They, too, approached the king with an offer to pay the sum claimed by Kwan Dong Tan, so that business could return to normal.

Gusti Agung replied, “If anyone pays this claim, we will treat it as treason.”

Soon afterwards, the king began to arm his militias. On the 27th of February 1905, thousands of men gathered at the Denpasar palace and had their weapons consecrated, assuring victory in war, should it ever come to that.

(16)

ZWART, whose duty it was to know about such things, reported these developments in Tarik Tamu to Willem, whose headaches were becoming chronic. On 13 March 1905, Willem wrote again to Governor General Van hevig, taking care (as procedure required) to include every detail of the matter to date and adding the following points:

1. The Raja of Tarik Tamu was now openly defiant. Not only did he refuse to pay the damages claimed by the owner of the Sri Kumala ¬ insisting that the matter be settled in the native court ¬ he was now demanding fl.3,750 per day in compensation for the loss of customs fees due to the blockade. Moreover, armed troops had been seen gathering in Denpasar.

2. The blockade was turning into a stagnant and expensive failure. Goods were still moving in and out of Tarik Tamu, thanks to the collaboration of the neighboring kingdoms.

3. Alarmingly, the political climate was turning against the colonial government. Sympathy was with the raja of Tarik Tamu, and his defiant attitude was infecting the other regions. Even the lofty but impoverished Dewa Agung, the king of Klungkung who held a position of special esteem among the other rajas, was showing signs of siding with Tarik Tamu, upon whom his kingdom depended for rice. Only the eastern kingdom of Karangasem, which had been under indirect Dutch rule since 1896, expressed any loyalty to holland. If Tarik Tamu remained defiant, it could jeopardize relations with all the other kingdoms.

4. In view of the above, in his capacity as Resident of Bali and Lombok, he recommended that the Governor General consider a more vigorous response ¬ that is, a military expedition against Tarik Tamu.

Willem went on to report some intelligence gathered by Zwart in regard to the likely response in south Bali to an invasion:

5. The Buginese population, among whom Tarik Tamu normally recruited foot soldiers, would not resist Dutch troops.

6. The punggawas of Sanur, Kapal, and Kuta had assured Zwart that in the event of an invasion they would surrender to the Dutch.

7. The punggawas of Marga and Belayu in Tabanan would not send troops in defense of Tarik Tamu; if asked to do so, they would revolt.

8. The rajas of Klungkung and Bangli would remain neutral.The letter concluded with some thoughts about the troop

strength, armaments, and support personnel that would be required; a timely date for the expedition (as soon as possible, “if possible before May, when the seas off the south coast Bali become rough”); and where the troops might land and bivouac (Sanur).

(17)

AN invasion. Nothing short of military conquest. And after Tarik Tamu, the remaining weaker kingdoms ¬ Tabanan, Bangli and

fictiON

Klungkung ¬ would fall in behind, and at last the entire unruly island of Bali would belong to holland. Governor General Van hevig drummed his fingers.

he needed time. For one thing, it would take time to gather the necessary troops, ships, and arms: the colonial forces were still busy crushing the kingdom of Boné in the Celebes. And he must be certain of full political support. To this end, Van hevig forwarded Willem's letter to the Council of the Indies.

(18)

ON 31 March 1905 the Council of the Indies discussed the letter of 13 March from Resident houtman and wrote to the Governor General, essentially saying that:

1. It would best, really, to approach the raja of Tarik Tamu again and try to work out a peaceful settlement of the matter of the Sri Kumala.

2. The Governor General should appoint an experienced high official to go to Bali and meet with both the Dutch Resident and the Raja of Tarik Tamu, study the circumstances, and report back to the Council of the Indies.

Grinding his teeth, Van hevig summoned his secretary and once again conjured a detailed solution to the obstacles placed before him by the colonial conscience.

For the post of envoy, he selected Willem's predecessor, the celebrated scholar and former Resident of Bali and Lombok, F. A. Liefelijk. his pre-eminence as an expert on Balinese political and cultural matters was incontestable; he was himself a member of the Council of the Indies; and as the originator of the ‘village republic' view of Balinese society ¬ in which the Balinese common people were seen as culturally autonomous from the interloping descendants of Javanese conquerors who comprised the aristocracy ¬ he was known to hold a low opinion of Bali's ruling class. Van hevig felt sure that Liefelijk would deliver a suitable review of the situation.

(19)

ThE honorable Mr. Liefelijk arrived in Singaraja on 15 April 1905, considerably disrupting the housekeeping of Emma houtman, who turned her and Willem's bedroom over to the great man and moved herself and her husband into the nursery. Liefelijk was a lively and exacting guest. Slight, erect, with wavy white hair and sharp blue eyes, he exuded an air of crispness that immediately made Willem feel gangly and clumsy, and Emma worry that she smelled of milk. For the next five days, Liefelijk, Willem, and Zwart were absorbed in meetings among themselves and with a number of Balinese high priests from the Kerta court of Singaraja. Emma was kept busy devising and supervising an unbroken series of meals for the men,

sometimes with the sudden addition of twelve people. She had to take on extra helpers, mostly from the families of her own small staff, and once was obliged to steer back to the kitchen a young girl who stood gaping at the Dutchmen, in a state of amazement so deep that the platter she was carrying tilted forward, dripping creamed wild spinach onto the floor.

That week, as Emma brought out pots of coffee and carried away plates of cake crumbs, she heard only snatches of talk among the men.

“… not likely to support Tarik Tamu.”“There's no point in counting on Tabanan.”“… what we know of the kings of Bali …”“… bamboo spears, for God's sake …”“So if he pays that awful Chinaman …”“We don't want him to pay the Chinaman, Mr. houtman.”“But the Council of the Indies …”“… military expedition is the only logical solution …”“What if…”“It's got to be a military expedition.”“What if…”“There's no other solution.”“But what if he pays?”“he won't.”“So how … the Council of Indies …”“It's only a matter of procedure, Mr. houtman.”

(20) Emma confesses something

I could not say so to my husband, but those were very difficult times for me, Mrs. Peal. My role as a wife was to support my husband in his life's work; yet my private feelings revolted at the prospect of our immense military power being used against a people who had no way of defending themselves.

Not long after our trip to Batavia, my second baby was born, a beautiful little boy, on March 11th 1904, before all this business with the shipwreck. Willem insisted that he be christened Alexander, perhaps in some spirit of homage to the grandeur of the empire. Cecilia was enchanted with her baby brother. Everyone was enchanted with Sander. Simply being born male was enough to make him a god among the Balinese in our household; but Sander was blessed with extra charm of his own: he was strong and handsome and precociously comical. At six months he had a hearty chuckle that was so jolly and jovial that anyone who heard it burst out laughing with him. Before he was a year old, he showed a gift for knowing people's names, and although they were distorted in his baby speech, this only added to his glamour.

Sander was a celebrity everywhere he went, and Willem seemed to draw life from the radiant charm of his son. My husband

is a shy man who keeps his strongest emotions to himself; but whenever he held Sander in his lap and engaged in that unique conversational play that exists between babies and the adults they trust, Willem's face would light up with his own original beauty, and in those moments I recognized the gentle, principled man I fell in love with during that Christmas in 1898. Sometimes in those moments I remembered to thank our blessed Lord for giving me so much happiness.

And then ¬ I'll tell this quickly ¬ on the 15th of March 1905, just after his first birthday, our beautiful, charismatic Sander died suddenly and inexplicably in his crib. It was if the world had gone mad. I think that I myself was dead for several days. For some time after that, I was not myself at all. Perhaps that is why, a few weeks later, I did something that is not at all in my character. It came about this way.

In April we had a Government guest ¬ Mr. Liefelijk from the Council of the Indies in Batavia ¬ who had come to address the matter of the Sri Kumala. The object of his trip was to meet with the raja of Tarik Tamu and find a peaceful resolution to the dispute over the ship owner's claim. On the way he would meet with several other rajas of the southern kingdoms to try to get their support. While he stayed with us, I was so busy that I was able to put my grief aside somewhat. So when Willem said that I needn't come with him to Tarik Tamu this time, I insisted. The sea voyage would do me good. I would stay onboard while the men made their diplomatic visits. I wanted to get away from the house and all its memories.

We sailed to Tarik Tamu on the Reiger, a large and comfortable ship that had been made available to Willem since the beginning of the blockade. Besides Willem and me, Mr. Liefelijk, Zwart, and a few colonial staff, were a number of Balinese priests from the native court in Singaraja, most of whom were very unhappy to be at sea. The weather was windy at that time of year, but I am a good sailor and I enjoyed the freshness of the air and the vigor of the sea. We sailed east and then south, and once again I had the pleasure of seeing Bali's lordly volcano Gunung Agung to starboard and the massive Gunung Rinjani of Lombok to port, although clouds shredded around them. As we turned west and sailed along the southeastern coast, past Klungkung and into the waters of Tarik Tamu, Gunung Agung was entirely hidden behind a grey sky.

The bay of Tarik Tamu was eerily empty except for our few warships. Whereas everywhere in the Indies the waters are lively with all manner of boats large and small, this emptiness was freakish. Then we rounded the southern Bukit peninsula and sailed northwest to Tabanan, where we stood off the harbor at Yeh Gangga for three days while the men met with the Tabanan princes. Apparently it did not go very well. On the 26th we sailed to the harbor in Kuta for a meeting with the raja of Tarik Tamu the following day.

That evening we gave a dinner onboard for the officers of the blockading ships. We squeezed around the table on the bridge, dining on the ample provisions ordered specially by Zwart: north Balinese ducks and a piglet. As the dinner progressed, the conversation grew noisy. Of course the men talked of nothing but the blockade.

“Tell me, Captain Koolhoven,” I asked one of the older officers, “how do your men spend the days with so little to do?”

“Drills, ma'am. Equipment maintenance. Target practice.” “We had some good target practice the other day,” said one

of the younger officers. his cheeks and ears were already bright red from our good Dutch gin. “We got a little outrigger. Blew it right out of the water. Fish and fishermen all over the place.”

“Mr. Eck, if you please,” said Captain Koolhaven, cocking his head in my direction.

But Eck's face was ablaze with glee. “And then the sharks! The sea was humping with sharks. I told my gunner, too bad there's an embargo on ¬ that Chinaman would pay a fortune for those sharks. They eat them raw, you know.”

I retired as soon as I could, but I could not sleep. have you ever experienced insomnia, Mrs. Peal? Perhaps you are too young. It is a very disagreeable state. It's as if the mind has been kidnapped. One is seized by an idea ¬ a worry or a memory, especially a memory, or some mad scheme ¬ and then it clamps you in its teeth and shakes you until you forget who you are.

That night, as we stood at anchor off the coast of Tarik Tamu, a kind of dread crept over me. It was wordless at first; then slowly came the nudging of a thought that I did everything to shut out. But it persisted, growing denser and sharper until finally it appeared fully formed: this blockade is unjust, it is wrong, it is causing harm. And with that thought, I was suddenly lost.

I was lying in the lower berth, Willem snoring lightly in the berth above, and for some time I muffled my weeping in my pillow. Perhaps he even heard me; he would have been accustomed to hearing me crying in those days. I wept for my child, as I did so often, but also for the fishermen blown up by our soldiers, for their wives, and for all the bewildered people who lived on the shores of Tarik Tamu and were not allowed to enter the sea. I imagined them standing on the shore looking at our ships, fearing us. I imagined the raja of Tarik Tamu, that strangely composed man, hating us.

Some time before dawn, I got up and went to the galley where I found some sailors who were able to get me some writing materials. I wrote a short letter in my rough Malay and then took off a little ring that once belonged to my grandmother, wrapped it in the letter, and placed it in a little silken pouch in which I normally carried small incidentals.

Later that morning, as the men were preparing to go ashore after breakfast, I caught Zwart and pulled him aside.

“Zwart, this will sound irregular, but I want to give you

fictiON

something to give to the king, in privacy.” he looked at me as if I were mad. “What privacy? I can't see

the raja in private, ma'am. And I certainly can't do anything without the knowledge of the Resident.”

“But there must be a way to deliver it, perhaps through one of your contacts.”

“Deliver what, ma'am?” “It will sound stupid.” “Then you'd better tell me, ma'am.” “It's something to help the raja pay off the Chinaman. A ring. I

think the diamonds might be valuable.” “Good Christ.” I pressed the pouch into his hand and walked away quickly

before he could say anything else. Willem was calling to him, the landing boats were being lowered, and soon they all set out for shore.

(21)

What Sudri saw

SUDRI watched the Dutch company approach the palace. The main courtyard was swarming with palace servants, villagers, townspeople, and traders, among them haji Nyoman Abdul.

When the Dutch entered the courtyard, she saw Zwart break away and approach haji Nyoman. They went off a few paces and stood talking privately. Zwart gave haji Nyoman something: it looked like a little pouch of pink satin. haji Nyoman nodded and put into his purse.

Later that afternoon, when the Dutch had left, she saw Gusti Agung Saru come into the family quarters and go sit on a broad pavilion with Ratu Mas and Ratu Ayu. he called for Ratu Manik, and Sudri brought him over. Sudri saw Gusti Agung lean against a gilded post and remove the pink satin pouch from his waist band. Ratu Mas, Ratu Ayu, Ratu Manik, and Sudri all stared.

The king opened the pouch and removed a piece of folded paper. Opening the letter, he found a small diamond ring. he held it between his fingers and looked over the letter in puzzled silence. “haji Nyoman says it's from the Dutch Resident's wife,” he said, then burst out laughing. he read the letter aloud, assuming a heavy Dutch accent for the amusement of his children:

To his highness the Raja of Tarik Tamu. Respected Sir. Please accept this gift to use ifyou please to pay the claim of the owner of the Sri Kumala ship and avoid danger to your kingdom. Please to not speak of this to anyone. From a Dutch friend who wishes you well.

Gusti Agung Saru tossed the letter to Ratu Mas and the ring to Ratu Manik. Sudri grabbed it before the child put it in his mouth.

The ring was exquisite: in the center was a medium-sized diamond, flanked on both sides by two more diamonds of descending size. Ratu Ayu took the ring and examined it. On the inner surface was a date that was mostly worn away. “Ooch,” she said with disgust. “Second hand.” She tossed the ring back to Sudri, who strung it on Ratu Manik's gold chain and then fastened it around her own neck.

(22)

ThE colonial company returned to Singaraja in the afternoon of the 2nd of May. Liefelijk went directly to his room and began composing his report to the Council of Indies. he wrote swiftly in a fine hand and fluent language, with a felicitous command of the idioms of the Dutch colonial bureaucracy, perfected over decades of service. The gist of his report was that his mission was a failure:

he had met with the raja of Tabanan, who could promise nothing more than to speak to the raja of Tarik Tamu and urge a peaceful solution.

he had met with the raja of Tarik Tamu, who refused to admit that any theft had taken place or to take any responsibility for the compensation claimed by the owner of the Sri Kumala; he denied any breach of the treaty of 1849; and he had the impertinence to demand recompense for the kingdom's loss of income arising from the blockade.

In his own diplomatic capacity, Liefelijk had proposed a compromise: if the raja would pay the sum demanded by the owner of the Sri Kumala, the Government of the Netherlands Indies would deduct the expenses of the blockade from that amount. The Raja had rejected the idea without further discussion.

(23)

I'D bet that he didn't even do the arithmetic, thought Governor General Van hevig with a smile; but there is still much to be done before we can strike.

(24)

“ZWART, could you see to this right away, please” said Willem. “It must be translated into Balinese as quickly as possible and distributed to all the rajas.”

Willem handed Zwart a document, dated 21 May 1905, from the office of the Governor General entitled Ordonnantie No. 309, to become effective on 24 May 1905, accusing the kingdom of Tarik Tamu of breaching the treaty of 13 July 1849, and forbidding the import and export of all goods in Tarik Tamu by land or sea, including the prohibition against all fishing.

“Is there some problem, Zwart?”

“No, sir. I'm just thinking that ¬ well, if I may speak frankly, sir ¬ I wonder if it isn't provocative to cite the 1849 treaty.”

“Are you proposing a critique to a Government order, Zwart?” “Of course not, sir. But looking at this from the point of view

of the rajas, sir, they will surely object that the 1849 treaty provides that our government does not interfere in the internal affairs of the kingdoms.”

“No doubt they will, Zwart. Do you imagine that the Governor General is not aware of the implications of his orders?” Willem rubbed his forefinger against his right temple, now a habitual gesture.

Zwart was a more complicated man than he appeared to be. Fat and slovenly by nature and low-born by destiny, he had no hope of rising higher in the colonial bureaucracy than his present rank as Assistant Resident. But his gift for languages and his genius for insinuating himself into the company of the native peoples of the Netherlands Indies had made him valuable to the government. he was a brilliant spy. But because governments are naturally wary of brilliance within their ranks, he was sharply watched. Zwart himself was torn by an urge to excel in his career and a renegade streak that pulled him to the company of strangers. he understood that his government was on course to a military attack against Bali. he was not sure how he felt about it. The little silk pouch that Emma houtman had shoved into his hands had weighed on him like molten lead.

(25)June 1905

AS the season grew cooler and brighter, the mood of the kings of Tarik Tamu and Tabanan grew darker. Each received the Resident's notice of Law 309, and each returned it with a letter. Gusti Agung Saru's letter rejected the law outright and protested the blockade. Raja Tabanan also rejected the law and refused to close its border with Tarik Tamu, which in his view had done nothing to deserve blockade.

Indeed the two kings grew closer and performed solemn oaths of loyalty in each other's state temples attended by thousands of people.

(26)July 1905

“Oh for Christ's sake!” said the governor general slamming the letter down on his desk. The Council of the Indies, after reading F.A. Liefelijk's report, was recommending that the government of the Netherlands Indies pay the sum claimed by the owner of the Sri Kumala.

Governor General Van hevig called for his secretary and began to draft a letter to Minister of Defense in The hague exploring the idea of military action in south Bali.

(27)

IN north Bali, the dry season stretched into November, stifling everything with dust. Willem grew impatient. “The Governor General wants to tighten the blockade, but it's pointless unless we close the border between Tarik Tamu and Tabanan.”

“But there is no border, sir” said Zwart. “We would have to occupy both kingdoms.”

“Exactly.”

(28)

AND so the upper levels of the colonial government began to prepare in earnest for military conquest. In December, Commander of the Netherlands Indies army Major General Van der Wijk stationed a staff officer in Singaraja to gather intelligence around the island. By now Willem had an office not far from the residence, and the young attaché spent a great deal of time there with Zwart when he was in Singaraja.

Smuggling across the borders of Tarik Tamu was continuous, although greatly slowed by the onset of the rainy season. Mountain trails turned into slippery streams. Steep fogs in the forests beguiled travelers and sometimes swallowed them forever. Sometimes a bamboo bridge spanning a river gorge gave way, with loss of life and cargo, and causing detours of many miles. There were tigers.

In the Denpasar palace of Tarik Tamu, the blockade made itself felt in the scarcity of things such as sewing needles and gold leaf. Kerosene, which facilitated the starting of wood fires, the cleaning of tools and the treatment of certain wounds, had become precious. Because it was forbidden to enter the sea even to harvest coral, construction suffered for lack of this building material and the slaked lime mortar it provided when burned. And because slaked lime was an essential ingredient of the betel quid, this once ubiquitous paste was now hoarded.

Gusti Agung Saru was serene in the face of these inconveniences, but Ratu Mas and Ratu Ayu sensed that beneath his quiet manner the king was deeply angry. As with most Balinese families, there was little opportunity to speak privately except in the long lulls during rituals. One day in April 1906 they found themselves sitting together on the beach at Sanur, a bit apart from the quiet crowd of relatives, palace attendants and local villagers, waiting for the high priest to conclude the rites for confiding the ashes of an elderly lady to the sea. Apart from the size of the crowd, the ceremony was austere, so as not to attract the attention of the Dutch warships just beyond the reef. Exceptionally, there was no music, no bronze gongs; only the ringing of the priest's hand bell.

Ratu Ayu stretched her legs and dug her heels into the sand. Ratu Mas lay near her, pouring slow handfuls of sand over her shins. A short distance away, Sudri was playing with Ratu Manik dangerously close to the edge of the sea. Ratu Ayu stared at the

fictiON

Dutch ships and then leaned against the king. “Father, how will this end?”

“It doesn't matter how it ends,” he said. “All that matters is that we remember that we are princes.” Gusti Agung picked up his daughter's wrist and laid her hand in his. “It's very simple. We must be exemplary. We must remain strong and generous, and uphold the order of the world.”

“But the Dutch,“ said Ratu Mas. “What do they want?”“They want to enslave us,” said the king.“Will they succeed?” said Ratu Ayu. “They've already

strangled our shores.”“No, my dear, they will never enslave us. I promise.”

(29)

IN June 1906, Governor General Van hevig and Major General Van der Wijk met for three days to discuss preparations for a military invasion of Tarik Tamu and Tabanan. A month later, the Governor General received a list from the heads of the army and navy of the forces recommended for the expedition. It would be the largest ever mounted in the history of the Netherlands Indies.

All that remained was to send a final ultimatum to the raja.

(30)

ThE language of the ultimatum (dated 17 July 1906 and signed by Governor General Van hevig) was calculated to offend.

“… to remind you of your obligations toward the Government of Netherlands Indies…”

“ … your neglect of the welfare of your subjects …”“ … the losses and suffering of your subjects, which you

disregard …”“ … your intransigence which now causes the suffering of two

kingdoms …”“ … the Government has long treated you with patience and

generosity …”And so on. The gist of the ultimatum was that the king of Tarik

Tamu must pay the sum of 12,932 florins ¬ which sum included the original fl. 7,500 plus the costs of the blockade, although out of concern for the raja's ability to pay such a large amount, the Government had generously reduced the charges of those costs by a significant discount ¬ and that the Government should receive this sum before the 1st of September 1906 or Tarik Tamu and Tabanan would face severe military action.

(31)

ON the 21st of August 1906, Gusti Agung Saru returned the ultimatum to the Governor General with a letter rejecting it out

of hand and listing in detail each step in this now dangerous affair, with the dates according to both the Gregorian and Balinese calendars, including all measures that his kingdom had taken to determine the true events surrounding the wreck of the Sri Kumala, and listing all incidents of violence against his subjects in the course of the blockade, detailing loss of property and injury to persons, with a demand for recompense of the damages to the kingdom in the amount of 3,750 florins per day since the imposition of the blockade.

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“So there will be war,” said Emma to Willem. “Is it unavoidable?” They were alone on their veranda watching the fireflies bouncing over the garden in the warm evening air.

“Absolutely unavoidable, my dear. But it's melodramatic to call it war. It will be a show of force large enough to make the rajas capitulate without even engaging us, and it will probably take only a few days.”

“Is there really no way to make peace with the rajas?” “My dear Emma, we have been trying for half a century

to make peace with the rajas. You know that this pocket of intransigence is intolerable to the Government. It stands in the way of a full and lasting peace in the Indies.”

“The Governor General's Pax Neerlandica.” “Yes, the Pax Neerlandica. Don't you think that is worth

fighting for?” “It's peace by force. Is this how we carry out the colonial

mission?” said Emma. “We must establish peace ¬ by force if necessary ¬ if we are

to carry out the colonial mission of improving people's lives.” “But the southern kingdoms are peaceful, aren't they?

They're all allied with each other, aren't they?” “The picture changes all the time. Ask Zwart. The southern

kingdoms have been at war with each other for the past twenty years. The Balinese rajas have been at war with each other for the past four hundred years, perhaps forever. The entire island is a political rat's nest. It is impossible to do anything for the people without some coordinated stability of government. And if the rajas can't provide it, then we must impose it.”

[to be continued]

ubud 2.0ThERE'S been a lot of talk lately about relocating the capital of Indonesia to some place where it won’t sink (although not much about what to do with Jakarta once it’s been abandoned by the national government). This idea has led some people to wonder if it might be a good idea to relocate Ubud to some place where it can handle all the tourist traffic. I overheard a conversation about it at Nuri’s just the other day.

“I can’t believe the roads,” someone said. “I should have walked here.”

“I walk everywhere,” said a woman in tights.

Someone else, a large handsome man, said, “Why don’t they just put up a sign at the southern border of Sukawati that says ‘Welcome to Ubud’. It’s already got a big market and a palace. The tourists could stand in front of the sign, have their picture taken, do a little shopping and go back to the beach. Who would know the difference?”

It was an elegant idea, I thought. (I was sitting at another table pretending to write.) Also, Sukawati’s being on a major road makes it closer to the airport, major hospitals, the immigration office, the central police station, shopping malls, mosques, thumping nightlife, drycleaners, zoos, and other services (like the beach) that tourists can’t find in Ubud.

“I think they should just start again from scratch. Like with Jakarta,” said a tattooed man, waggling his empty beer glass at a waitress.

“Where would you put it?”“how about on the Bukit peninsula?” “Oh God.”“No, really. It’s got the GWK

entertainment park, so it’s already culturally rich.”

“There’s still traffic issues.”“I heard the Bukit was already sold

out.”The woman in tights said, “Ubud is all

about rice fields. It has to be up-country. Rural. In nature.”

“Yeah, you need jungle to hide things like villas and the Green School,” said the tattooed man.

“And you have to be able to see volcanoes from the Ubud.”

“how about putting it on top of the old royal seat of Bangli?”

“That could work,” said the woman in tights, pensively.

This was also an interesting idea. There’s lots of unspoiled real estate over there and, like the original Ubud, Bangli has a tradition of healing: its mental hospital could be expanded with an International Wing and would do a roaring business.

The big handsome man said, “Wherever it is, the real question is how to build it so you don’t have the same problems all over again.”

“No tourism!”“how would anyone make a living?”A woman with a white crewcut said,

“I think you could have some tourism. You just need something for the tourists to see besides more tourism.”

“What do you mean?”“I mean something that people do in

real life, not just for tourists.”The woman in tights said, “But the

ritual is real life.”“I meant to make a living. Something

practical.”“What about farming?” said someone,

and the whole table erupted in shouting and hooting.

“There’s not enough land. That’s why they brought in tourism in the first place. Farmers can’t make a living farming.”

“They could if the government subsidized them like in Japan.”

“Or if they grew poppies like in Afghanistan.”

The woman with the white crewcut said, “You know how Paris has more going

on than tourist attractions? It should be like that for Ubud. There should be something else happening here besides catering to tourists. Like a university.”

I thought that was cool. So did some of the others. “Yeah, a real university. That would be useful.”

“With proper faculties of humanities, arts, law, medicine —”

“And a teaching hospital.”“And a film school.”“And engineering, for heaven’s sake.”“And environmental studies.”“God, yes. And urban planning.”“And an arts institute, of course. With

a really good design school.”“And agricultural sciences.”“Biotechnology!”“Rocket science!”“And really good primary and

secondary schools to help the kids get into the university.”

“A university would attract a lot of interesting people to teach and to study.”

“Right. And there would be a lot of supporting businesses to accommodate them, which wouldn’t depend on the fickle tourist market.”

The large handsome man said, “You’d still have to think about things like zoning and infrastructure.”

“It would never work.” This was a new voice. It came from a slender man with dark glasses and an accent I couldn’t place.

“Why not?”“If the people of Ubud wanted

efficient infrastructure and an alternative economy, they’d have it. Do you think they’re stupid? They’re not. Ubud is just the way they like it. You’re trying to make Ubud into a little Paris with a bit of decorative Balinese culture in the background.”

I thought that sounded like a formula for success, but I kept my mouth shut. You never know who’s eavesdropping.

Overheard, overpaid and over here. By Diana Darling.