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The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics for Emotional Garment According to
the Weaving Loom Characteristics
Seung Jin Kim and Hyun Ah Kim School of Textiles, Yeungnam University, Gyeongsan,
Korea Institute for Knit Industry, Iksan, Korea
1. Introduction
Many efforts for making good quality fabrics for emotional garment have been performed
by SME weavers and finishers. And weaving machinery companies are researching about
loom mechanism applied by low warp and filling tensions and loom mechanism for good
quality fabrics. The fabric defects complained by garment manufacturers are stop marks,
streaky phenomena on the warp direction, thickness variation and color differences between
edges on the right and left sides of the fabrics, which are partly due to the tension variation
of warp and filling directions. Therefore, many researches(Basu, 1987; Islam & Bandara,
1996, 1999) related to the fabric defects and weaving loom mechanism were carried out and
many patents related to the loom were presented by loom makers. Many researches related
to the warp and filling tensions during weaving were performed with relation to the fabric
defects. Fabric physical property is largely affected by various factors such as constituent
yarn physical property and fabric structural parameters. But, the fabric physical property for
emotional garment is also affected by weaving loom characteristics. Among weaving loom
characteristics, warp and weft yarn tensions during weaving are the most important
parameters which affects fabric physical properties and quality. And warp and weft yarn
tensions are different according to loom characteristics i.e. according to air-jet, rapier and
projectile. Even though same rapier loom, these tensions are slightly different according to
the mechanism of rapier loom. Many researches(Islam & Bandara, 1996, 1999) related to the
warp and weft yarn tensions during weaving were carried out with relation to the stop
marks and other fabric quality. On the other hand, air-jet insertion in air-jet loom and its
mechanical mechanism were also performed with variation of the air flow and weft yarn
tension.(Natarajan et al, 1993; Adanur & Mohamed, 1988, 1991, 1992)
Recently, many simulation studies(Belforte et al, 2009; Simon et al, 2005, 2009) related to the
air-jet nozzle on the air-jet loom were investigated. And new concept and recent innovations
in loom were also studied.(Bilisik & Mohamed, 2009; Gokarneshan et al, 2010; Kopias, 2008)
The warp yarn tension and weavability related to the end break during weaving were
studied with relation of yarn physical property and weave limit.(Lappage, 2005; He et al,
2004; Bilisik & Demiryurek, 2011; Seyam, 2003) But, the fabric property related to the yarn
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Woven Fabrics
56
tension on the air-jet loom was investigated using yarn tension meter(DEFAT) by Sabit
Adanur and Jing Qi. Weft yarn tension was measured with yarn physical parameters such
as yarn count, twist multiplier, yarn hairiness and yarn elongation. Fabric physical
properties such as weight and thickness, air permeability, dimensional stability and
abrasion resistance were analysed with average weft yarn tension of air-jet loom. Fabric
stiffness, drape coefficient and wrinkle recovery were also measured and discussed with
average weft yarn tension. Many weavers are using foreign looms made by Japan, and
European countries such as Italy, Germany and Belzium. Especially, polyester fabrics woven
by rapier looms show many defects such as thickness differences and color differences
between edges on the right and left sides of the fabrics. Many weavers are thinking that the
physical properties of fabrics including these defects are also different between fabrics
woven by these various kinds of looms. And they are wondering how is the tension
difference among various looms and how is the difference of the fabric mechanical
properties according to the looms and the fabric positions with relation to the warp and weft
weaving tensions on the various looms, respectively. But, any investigations about fabric
physical properties according to the loom characteristics and about warp and weft tension
variations according to the warp position among looms were not found yet. Therefore, this
topic surveys the fabric physical properties according to the weaving looms, for this
purpose, warp and filling yarn tensions during weaving were measured on the various
looms and the fabric mechanical properties due to warp and weft tension differences were
analysed using KES-FB system. In addition, weavability was also analysed by measuring
warp tension variation according to the looms and the warp position. And the relationship
between shed amount and warp tension on one fixed heald frame was surveyed according
to the various looms and also fabric thickness according to the fabric width was measured
for analysing fabric thickness variation with weaving loom characteristics.
2. The importance of the fabric mechanical properties for emotional garment’s formability
The fabric formability of the worsted and wool/polyester blend fabrics widely used for suit garment for men and women is very important physical property. Formability is defined as ability of the fabric to be re-shaped from a plane fabric to the 3D form of clothing(Pavlinic, 2006). Fabric formability was predicted by many researchers(Lindeberg, 1960; Niwa et al, 1998; Shishoo, 1989; Postle & Dhingra, 1989; Ly et al, 1991). And fabric mechanical properties were used in the predicting fabric formability by Lindberg et al(Lindeberg, 1960), Niwa et al(Niwa, 1998), Yokura et al(Yokura, 1990) and Morooka et al(Morooka & Niwa, 1978). Lindberg formerly proposed formability by fabric bending and compression properties.
But, many equations related to the garment formability were suggested after developing KES-FB and FAST systems which are measuring devices of fabric mechanical properties.
Postle et al and Ly et al proposed formability equations using fabric mechanical properties measured by FAST system. Shishoo et al also suggested formability equation using KES-FB System. But, Niwa et al have published many papers related to the garment formability as a TAV(total appearance value) using fabric mechanical properties measured by KES-FB System.
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The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics
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On the other hand, many researches about mechanical property of the woven fabric
according to the yarn and fabric parameters were carried out using KE-FB and FAST
systems (Oh & Kim,1993). Among them, the PET synthetic fabric mechanical properties
according to weft filament yarn twists, yarn denier and fabric density were analysed and
discussed with these yarn and fabric structural parameters. On the other hand, the
worsted fabric mechanical properties according to the looms such as rapier and air jet
were also analysed and discussed with weaving machine characteristics (Kim & Kang,
2004; Kim & Jung, 2005). Similar studies were also performed using the PET and
PET/Tencel woven fabrics (Kim et al., 2004). The researches related to the fabric
mechanical property according to the dyeing and finishing processes were also carried
out (Kim et al., 1995; Oh et al., 1993). According to the these studies, many factors such as
the fabric structural parameters and processing parameters on the weaving and dyeing
and finishing processes affects on the fabric mechanical properties which are governing
garment’s physical properties. Among these process parameters, weaving process is one
important process which affects the fabric mechanical properties due to warp and weft
tensions during weaving.
On the other hand, the large companies for production of worsted fabric have sequential production line such as spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing processes, but some small companies have only one production line such as weaving, dyeing or finishing. So, large fabric lot processed in large companies is divided and delivered to the small companies by small fabric lot. Therefore, large quantity of fabrics are woven by various looms such as projectile, rapier and air-jet in various small weaving companies, and then, they are finished by various small finishing companies. It is known that these production system makes fabric physical properties such as hand, fabric thickness and shrinkage non-homogeneous. It is investigated that these non-homogeneity of the fabric physical properties may be originated from the difference of loom even though the loom setting is same.
Many researches related to the warp and weft yarn tensions during weaving were
performed with relation to the stop marks on the fabrics. Among them, Helmut
Weinsdörfer investigated that the distribution of the warp end tension over the warp
width and how it is influenced by the weaving machine setting. This analysis carried out
on the poplin fabric using Sulzer projectile loom and a comparative investigations
performed on a downproof fabric using a flexible rapier loom with rod type temples and a
projectile loom with needle temples. In addition, he studied warp yarn tension variation
according to the shed geometry, warp brake setting and loom speed using narrow fabric
loom(Jacob Muller). But these researches are only contributed to the weavability related to
the mechanism of weaving machine, and there were no investigations about fabric
physical properties according to the warp and weft tension differences on the positions of
the fabrics such as center and edges and according to the different looms itself. Many
weavers are using various kinds of looms made by Japan, and European countries such as
Italy, Germany and Belzium. Especially, polyester fabrics woven by rapier looms show
many defects such as thickness differences and color differences between edges on the
right and left sides of the fabrics. Many weavers are thinking that the physical properties
of fabrics including these defects are also different between fabrics woven by various
types of looms.
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3. Experimental
3.1 Worsted fabrics
3.1.1 Weaving of worsted fabrics on the air-jet and rapier looms
Worsted fabrics specimens were woven using Picanol rapier loom(model GTX-4-R) and air-jet loom(model PAT-4-R-A), respectively. Table 1 shows loom characteristics used for making fabric specimens and Table 2 shows fabric design related to the yarn and fabric structural parameters.
Loom characteristics Rapier GTX-4-R Air jet PAT-4-R-A
Harness motion Electronic dobby Electronic dobby
Weft insertion Rapier Main nozzle & relay nozzle
Let off motion Let off continuously with
electronic control Let off continuously with
electronic control
Winding grey fabrics system
Max. diameter : 600mm Range of density : 4.5~340ppi
Max. diameter : 600mm Range of density : 5.8~183ppi
Micro processor Pick finding, let off tension Pick finding, let off tension
Table 1. The Characteristics of loom used for making the specimen.
Fiber composition
Yarn count Yarn twist
(tpm) Fabric
structure
Density (per 10 Cm)
Grey fabric
Finished fabric
Wool 100% Wp Nm
2/72
Wp Z770/S830
5 harness, satin
Wp 338 376.9
Wf Wf Wf 220 224.4
Table 2. Specification of weave design
3.1.2 Finishing process of the worsted fabrics
The grey fabrics woven by rapier and air-jet looms were overlocked for processing in the finishing process simultaneously. Table 3 shows the finishing process and its condition.
Processes Conditions
Gas singeing 100 m/min., gas 9 bar, both side singed
Sewing for making sack 12 mm/stitch
Scouring Soaping for 20 min., rinsing for 30 min., Soaping for 45 min., rinsing for 50 min.
Continuous crabbing 80℃, 90℃, 95℃, 95℃, 95℃, 20℃
Shearing 20 m/min., 2 times for surface, once for back
Continuous decatizing 20 m/min.
Kier decatizing 19 m/min., pressure 30 kg/㎠
Table 3. Finishing processes and conditions
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The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics
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The specimens for measuring fabric mechanical properties were prepared by grey and
finished fabrics woven by rapier and air-jet looms, respectively. Table 4 shows preparation
of specimens and Fig. 1 shows the position on the fabrics related to the specimen number
shown in the Table 4. 5 kinds of specimens were selected as one center position and 4 sides
positions.
Fabric Loom Sample
No.Remark Fabric Loom
Sample No.
Remark
Ingray fabric
(A)
Rapier (a)
1 Center
Finished fabric
(B)
Rapier (a)
1 Center
2 Side 2 Side
3 Side 3 Side
4 Side 4 Side
5 Side 5 Side
Air-jet
(b)
6 Center
Air-jet
(b)
6 Center
7 Side 7 Side
8 Side 8 Side
9 Side 9 Side
10 Side 10 Side
Table 4. Preparation of specimen.
Fig. 1. Sampling position of specimen.
3.1.3 Weaving of the worsted fabrics on the projectile and air-jet looms
For surveying the warp and weft tension differences between projectile and air-jet looms
and analysing the mechanical properties of the worsted fabrics for emotional garment
with relation of these two looms characteristics, worsted fabric specimens were woven
using projectile(Sulzer) and air-jet looms(Picanol PAT and OMNI), respectively. Table 5
shows looms characteristics used in this experiment. Table 6 shows specification of weave
pattern.
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Projectile Air jet
Sulzer-pu Picanol
Pat Omni
R P M 360 630 700
Reed width(mm) 2200 1830
Harness motion Mechanical dobby Electronic dobby
Weft insertion projectile Nozzle & sub nozzle
Let-off motion Electronic let-off Electronic let-off
Range of picking(mm) 9.1 - 230 5.8 - 183
Microprocessor Let off motion Pick find, let off m/o
Table 5. The characteristics of looms used for the test
Fiber Composition
Yarn count & TPM(Nm/tpm)
Fabric structure
Density (per 10cm)
Remark Grey fabric
Finished
WP Wool 93% Nylon 7%
1/40, 770 sirofil 5
harness satin
378 421 WP: 18D×5=90 WF:68
pick/in Width: 70.3″66.0″59.0″
Length: 97.5m 96.5y 91.0y WF
Wool 100%
1/30, 1020 268 283
Table 6. Specification of weave pattern
3.1.4 Finishing process of the worsted fabrics
Grey fabrics woven by Sulzer and two air-jet looms were cut by 3 yards, respectively and these were overlocked for processing in the finishing processes. Table 7 shows the finishing process for making finished fabrics. The specimens for measuring fabric mechanical properties were prepared by grey and finished fabrics woven by Sulzer and two air-jet looms, respectively. Fig. 2 shows the sampling positions on the fabrics for measuring fabric mechanical properties.
Process Conditions
Gas singeingSolvent scouring
Scouring
Dry Fabric dyeing
Dry Shearing
Continuous decatizing Kier decatizing
100 m/min, gas pressure: 9 bar, both side singed 25 m/min, 50°C, Soaping for 20min, rinsing for 30min Soaping for 45min, rinsing for 50min 110°C, Over feeding ratio 5% 100°C, 110°C, Over feeding ratio 5% 20 m/min, 2 times for surface, ones for back 15 m/min, 19 m/min, pressure: 30kg/cm2
Table 7. Finishing process and conditions
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Fig. 2. Preparation of specimens for KES-FB System test.
3.1.5 Weaving of the worsted fabrics on the three kinds of rapier looms
For surveying the warp and weft tension differences among 3 types of rapier looms and
analyzing the mechanical properties of these worsted fabrics for emotional garment with
relation of these 3 kinds of rapier looms characteristics, 5 harness satin weave worsted
fabrics were woven using FAST-R, THEMA-11-E and Picanol-GTX looms, respectively.
Table 8 shows the specification of weave pattern of these worsted fabrics. Table 9 shows
the characteristics of these 3 kinds of looms. Finishing process was same as shown in
Table 7.
Fiber Composition
Yarn count(Nm, tpm)
Fabric structure
Density (per 10cm)
Remark grey
fabric finished
WP wool 93% nylon 7%
1/40, 770sirofil
5 harness
satin
378 421 WP: 18D×5=90ends WF:
68picks Width: 70.3″66.0″59.0″
Length: 97.5m 96.5y 91.0y WF Wool 100% 1/30, 1020 268 283
Table 8. Specification of weave pattern
Division Loom
FAST-R THEMA-11-E PICANOL-GTX
R P M 520 550 580
Reed width (mm) 2200 2100 1900
Harness motion electronic dobby electronic dobby electronic dobby
Weft insertion rapier rapier rapier
Let-off motion Electronic let-off Electronic let-off Electronic let-off
Range of picking (mm) 4.8 - 282 7.6 - 198 4.5 - 340
Microprocessor pick find
let off m/o pick find
let off m/o pick find
let off m/o
Table 9. The characteristics of loom used for the test
The sampling position on the fabrics for measuring fabric mechanical properties was same as shown in Fig. 2.
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3.2 Polyester filament fabrics
3.2.1 Weaving of PET filament fabrics by 2 kinds of rapier looms (Omega® and
Picanol®)
PET fabrics were woven using 2 kinds of rapier looms (Omega® and Picanol®) for analysing the tension differences and fabric mechanical properties due to warp and weft tension differences. Table 10 shows weave design of woven fabrics. Table 11 shows the characteristics of two rapier looms.
Fiber composition
Yarn count Fabric
structure
Density/inch Remark
Grey Finished
Warp Polyester
100 % 75D / 36F
5 Harness
168 261 42D ×4
=168end/in Pick:
86pick/in Weft Polyester 93.5 %
Polyurethane 6.5 %
100D/192F + 30D
spandex covering
86 98
Table 10. Specification of weave design
LoomDivision
OMEGA (Textec, Korea) PICANOL-GTX (Belgium)
Maximum RPM 520 580
Maximum reed width 2100 (mm) 1900 (mm)
Harness motion Electronic dobby Electronic dobby
Let off motion Electronic let off Electronic let off
Microprocessor Pick find motion
Let off motion Pick find motion
Let off motion
note: running speed : 470rpm
Table 11. The characteristics of loom used in this study
3.2.2 Finishing process of the PET fabrics
These grey fabrics woven by two rapier looms were processed on the finishing process which is shown in Table 12.
Process Condition
Cylinder dryer 130 ℃ × 60 m/min
Scouring Speed : 35 m/min ,
Temperature : 60-95-60℃
Pre-setting 210 ℃ × 27 m/min
Dyeing 130 ℃ × 40 min
Final-setting 210 ℃ × 30 m/min
Table 12. Finishing processes and conditions
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The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics
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3.2.3 Weaving of PET filament fabrics on the 2 kinds of rapier looms (Omega® and
Vamatex®)
For surveying the tension differences between Omega and Vamatex looms and analysing fabric mechanical properties using KES-FB system according to warp and weft tension differences, fabric was designed as 5 harness satin weave using 150d/48f warp and 200d/384f weft polyester filaments, and was woven by Omega®-Panter rapier loom by Textec Co. Ltd and P1001es rapier loom by Vamatex Co. Ltd., respectively.
These grey fabrics were processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes which was shown in Table 12. Weavability was also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame was surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions was also discussed.
Table 13 shows specification of weave pattern. Table 14 and Fig. 3 show the characteristics of rapier looms used in this study.
Fiber Composition Yarn Count Fabric
Structure
Density/inch
Grey Finished
Warp Polyester 100% 150D / 48F 5 Harness satin 102.5 158
Weft
Polyester 93.5%
Polyurethane 6.5%
200D/384F + 40D spandex
72 83
Table 13. Specification of weave pattern
LoomDivision
Omega-Panter Vamatex-P1001es
R.P.M (Max.) 466 (520) 423 (580) Maximum reed width 2100 1900
Harness motion Electronic dobbyLet-off motion Electronic let-off
Microprocessor Pick find motionLet-off motion
Table 14. The characteristics of rapier looms used in this study
Fig. 3. Specification of test looms.
OMEGA (Unit: mm)
VAMATEX (Unit: mm)
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64
4. Measurement and assessment
4.1 Assessment in the weaving process
4.1.1 Warp and weft tensions
Weaving tensions on 7 kinds of weaving machines were measured using Dafat tension meter which is shown in Fig. 4. Measured position was between tension roller and drop wire on the loom. Various yarn tensions on the each heald frame from 1st to 5th were measured at the vicinity of the center of loom.
Yarn tension along full width of each loom was also measured on the 5th heald frame from left side to right on the back of the loom. The weaving efficiency in each loom was measured by number of end breaks both warp and weft per 100,000 picks.
Fig. 4. DEFAT tension meter
Fig. 5. Diagram of shed amount
4.1.2 Measurement of shed amount
At the upper state of the heald frame, the distance from the fixed guide of heald frame to the
upper line of frame is the amount of upper shedding, the lowest state of the heald frame is
the amount of lower shedding.
The warp movement is calculated by the difference between the amount of upper shedding
and lower shedding, which is shown in Fig. 5.
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The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics
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4.1.3 Process shrinkages on the warp and weft directions
Fabric shrinkages of PET on the warp and weft directions in the each step on the dyeing and finishing processes were calculated using warp and weft fabric densities as equation (1) and (2) shown in bellows.
Warp shrinkage (%)
= Weft density before process step — Weft density after process step 100 (1) Weft density before process step
Weft shrinkage (%)
= Fabric width before process step — Fabric width after process step 100 (2)Fabric width before process step
4.2 Measurement of fabric physical properties
4.2.1 Fabric thickness
The positions for measuring fabric thickness to the direction of the fabric width and to the longitudinal direction on the right and left sides of the fabric were selected as shown in Fig. 6 and Fig. 7. The specimens for measuring fabric mechanical properties were prepared as shown in Fig. 8.
edge
10cm
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
● ● ● ● ● ● ●
10cm
edge
Fig. 6. Measured points of thickness to the direction of the fabric width.
edge
10cm
20cm
● 1 1 ●
10cm
20cm
edge
● 2 2 ●
․ ․ ․ ․
․ ․ ․ ․
․ ․ ․ ․
․ ․ ․ ․
● 10 10 ●
Fig. 7. Measured points of thickness on the right & left sides of Fabric
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66
Fig. 8. Preparation of specimens for the test using KES-FB System
4.2.2 Fabric mechanical properties
16 mechanical properties of gray and finished fabrics such as tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface woven from 7 kinds of looms were measured by KES-FB system.
5. Results and discussions
5.1 Loom efficiency of worsted fabrics
5.1.1 Projectile and air-jet loom
Table 15 shows loom efficiency and stop number of each loom. Fig. 9 and 10 show rpm, efficiency and percentage of end break of Table 15.
Division Loom RPM Effi.Keeping
looms /person
Pick Loom stop number Stop %
Hour Total Warp Weft Other Warp Weft
Proje- ctile
SULZER-PU 300 85.5 8 100,000 34.1 21.0 4.9 8.2
61.6 14.4 hour 5.3 3.2 0.8 1.3
Air - Jet
PICANOL-OMNI
500 67.0 10 100,000 46.6 9.9 35.8 0.9
21.2 76.8 hour 9.4 2.0 7.2 0.2
PICANOL-PAT
520 65.0 10 100,000 46.2 22.2 21.6 2.4
48.1 46.8 hour 9.4 4.4 4.4 0.5
Table 15. Efficiency and stop number of weaving loom for the test
300
85.5
500
67
520
65
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
RP
M, E
ffic
ien
cy(%
)
SULZER P-OMNI P-PAT
RPM Efficiency(%)
Fig. 9. Diagram between rpm and efficiency of various looms
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The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics
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0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
% o
f e
nd
bre
ak
SULZER P-OMNI P-PAT
other
weft
warp
Fig. 10. Percentage of end break of warp and weft to the three looms
As shown in Fig. 9, Sulzer shows high efficiency, on the one hand, air-jet looms, both P-Omni and P-PAT show low efficiency. As shown in Fig. 10, Sulzer loom has high warp-break but air-jet loom has high weft-break.
5.1.2 Rapier looms
Table 16 shows loom efficiency and stop number of each rapier looms. Fig. 11 and 12 show rpm, efficiency and percentage of end break of Table 16.
Loom RPM Effi.Keeping
loom/person
Pick Loom stop number Stop %
hour total warp weft other warp weft
FAST - R 382 82.1 7 100,000 30.4 20.9 8.2 1.3
68.8 27.0 hour 5.8 4.0 1.5 0.3
THEMA-11-E
399 75.6 8 100,000 45.1 28.4 11.1 5.6
63.0 24.6 hour 8.1 5.1 2.0 1.0
PICANOL-GTX
402 67.8 10 100,000 41.7 31.7 6.2 3.8
76.0 14.9 hour 6.8 5.2 1.0 0.6
Table 16. Efficiency and stop number of weaving loom for the test
382
82.1
399
75.6
402
67.8
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
350
400
450
RP
M, E
ffic
ien
cy (
%)
FAST THEMA P-GTX
Loom
RPM Efficiency(%)
Fig. 11. Diagram between rpm and efficiency of test looms
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Woven Fabrics
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68.8
27
4.2
63
24.6
12.4
76
14.9
9.1
0
20
40
60
80
100
% o
f e
nd
bre
ak
FAST THEMA P-GTX
other
weft
warp
Fig. 12. Percentage of end break of warp & weft to the three looms
As shown in Table 16, warp breaks are much higher than weft breaks. It is shown that the
loom efficiency of FAST is the highest. The reason why seems to be low rpm and low
keeping loom per person of FAST loom. It is also seen in Fig. 11 and 12 that Picanol has high
warp break and FAST has high weft break compared to other looms.
5.2 Warp and weft tensions of the worsted fabrics according to the loom characteristics
5.2.1 Projectile and air-jet looms
Fig. 13 shows warp tension variation according to the warp position on the Sulzer loom. As
shown in Fig. 13, warp yarn tension variation on the vicinity of the center part of the fabric
is higher than those of left and right parts of the fabrics and the tension of the right side of
fabric is a little lower than that of left side of fabric. The warp yarn tension variation
between right and left sides of fabric makes color difference between right and left of fabric,
this phenomena deteriorates garment quality in clothing factory.
Fig. 13. Warp tension according to the warp position (SULZER Loom)
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Fig. 14. shows one cycle warp tension variation which was measured on the 15cm position
to the left of the loom.
Projectile(SULZER) Air-jet(PICANOL)
Fig. 14. The graphs of warp yarn tension of two looms
The warp tension variation during one cycle of the Sulzer loom was ranged between 22gf
and 52gf, but, Picanol loom was ranged from 6gf to 23gf and shows 4 kinds of successive
peaks, on the other hand, Sulzer has one large peak.
Table 17 shows shedding amount and warp tension of the each loom with bar and ring
temple respectively. It was shown that warp tensions were slightly increased with
increasing shedding amount in both Picanol Omni and PAT, But in Sulzer loom, is
preferably decreased with increasing shedding amount.
Loom Heald
position 1 2 3 4 5 Average Percentage
Warp breakage
Percentage
Bar temple
P-OMNI
Shedding amount(mm)
73 82 93 102 118 93.6 108.1 9.9 47.4
Tension(gf) 36 36 39 40 43 38.0 115.2
Ring temple
SUL-PU
Shedding amount(mm)
85 86 86 90 88 89.0 102.8 21.0 100.5
Tension(gf) 66 65 58 59 56 60.8 184.2
P-PAT
Shedding amount(mm)
87 92 104 111 17 102.2 118.0 22.2 106.2
Tension(gf) 40 45 54 50 56 49.0 148.5
Table 17. The shedding amount and warp tension of the test weaving looms
Fig. 15. shows relationship between warp yarn tension and shed amount of each looms.
As shown in Fig. 15, the shed amount of P-Omni loom with bar temple is larger than that of
Sulzer loom with ring temple, but warp tension of P-Omni has lower value by 37%
compared to Sulzer, and also has lower value by 23% compared to P-PAT loom. This
phenomena demsnstrates that air-jet loom with bar temple can contribute to the increase of
weavability.
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0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
1 2 3 4 5
Heald
Sh
ed a
mo
un
t(m
m),
Wa
rp t
ensi
on
(gf)
P-OMNI Shed amountP-OMNI Warp tensionSUL-PU Shed amountSUL-PU Warp tensionP-PAT Shed amountP-PAT Warp tension
Fig. 15. Relation between warp yarn tension and amount of shed
Fig. 16 shows one cycle weft tension variation of Sulzer loom. As shown in Fig. 16, one peak is revealed by an instant tension during flying of projectile. The weft tension variations of ari-jet looms (P-PAT and P-Omni) could not measure because of much movement of nozzle.
Fig. 16. The graph of weft yarn tension of sulzer loom
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
L1 15 60 90 60 15 R 1
Warp position(cm)
Wa
rp t
en
sio
n(g
f)
P-GTX
FAST
THEMA
Fig. 17. Warp tension according to the warp position
Heald position
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5.2.2 Rapier loom
Fig. 17. shows warp tension variations at the full widths of the 3 types of looms (P-GTX,
FAST, THEMA looms).
As shown in Fig.17, warp tension variation of Picanol loom(P-GTX) attached with bar
temple according to the position of loom width direction is smaller than those of FAST
and THEMA looms attached with ring temples. It was shown that the warp tensions on
central part of the looms is much higher than those on left and right sides of the looms
both FAST and THEMA looms used by ring temples. The tension on the right side of the
loom is about 10% lower than that on left side of the loom. Fig.18 shows one-cycle warp
tension variation of the 3 types of rapier looms on the 15cm position from left side of the
loom.
Fig. 18. The graph of warp yarn tension on the three rapier looms.
As shown in Fig.18, tension on FAST loom was distributed ranged between 25gf and 50gf,
and ranged between 35gf and 49gf for THEMA loom, and ranged between 13gf and 28gf for
Picanol. Especially, the tension variation on the Picanol loom revealed 4 types continuous
small peaks and one large peak, of which weave design was 5 harness satin. For comparing
warp tension variation according to the weave pattern, warp tension variation according to
the loom position and loom types was measured on the 7th heald frame with 8 harness satin
weave pattern and 2/60Nm warp yarn count.
Fig.19 shows warp tension variations on the THEMA and P-GTX looms. As shown in Fig.19
warp yarn tension of the 8 harness satin was much higher than those of 5 harness
satin(Fig.13). It was shown that yarn tension change according to the warp position on the
Picanol loom with bar temple was much less than that of the THEMA loom with ring
temple.
(b)(c)
(a)
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Fig. 19. Warp tension variation of warp position according to the loom with temple.
Fig. 20. Relation between warp yarn tension and amount of shed.
Table 18 shows shedding amount and warp tension of the 3 types of rapier looms attached with bar and ring temples. Fig.20 shows these variations according to the heald frame.
As shown in Fig.20, shedding amount was increased from 1st heald frame to 6th one, and
warp tension was also increased from 1st heald frame to 6th one, which means that warp
tension is proportional to shedding amount. Table19 shows weft tension and end break of
weft on the 3 kinds of rapier looms.
じ
ずじ
ぜじ
ぞじ
だじ
すじじ
すずじ
す ず せ ぜ そ
ばろらァれ ゎェらアろ
Pさはぼむ ほゐろれ らアイオィォ
Pさはぼむ みらェゥ ォろィエゑイィ
のAほぼさぺ ほゐろれ らアイオィォ
のAほぼさぺ みらェゥ ォろィエゑイィ
ぼばねMAさね ほゐろれ らアイオィォ
ぼばねMAさね みらェゥ ォろィエゑイィ
Sh
ed a
mou
nt(
mm
), W
arp
ten
sion
(g)
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Loom
Heald number
1 2 3 4 5 6 meanend break of
warp
Bar temple
P-GTX Shedding
amount(mm) 77 84 91 98 102 - 90.4
31.7 warp tension(gf) 31 31 32 34 37 - 33.0
Ring temple
FAST-R Shedding
amount(mm) 81 83 86 90 93 - 86.6
20.9 warp tension(gf) 43 45 50 56 58 - 50.4
THEMA-
E Shedding
amount (mm) 76 79 88 - 100 105 89.6
28.4
warp tension(gf) 47 50 54 - 51 53 51.0
Table 18. The shedding amount and warp tension of the test weaving looms
Loom FAST-R THEMA-E PICANOL-GTX
Weft tension Max. 84 84 99 Min. 0 0 0
RPM 382 399 402 Break number of weft 8.2 11.1 6.2
Table 19. Weft tension and end break of weft on the 3 looms.
Fig.21 shows histogram of these data.
ぺPMみろゎォ ォろィエゑイィ
みろゎォ りェろらんらわろ
のAほぼ
ぼばねMA
Pさはぼむ
ぜじず
ちち
ぞざず
せちち
だぜ
すすざす
せだず
だぜ
だざずじ
そじ
すじじ
すそじ
ずじじ
ずそじ
せじじ
せそじ
ぜじじ
ぜそじ
ぺPM
ご み
ろゎォ ォろィエゑ
イィぐわ
け ご
みろゎォ り
ェろらん
Fig. 21. Diagram between end break and yarn tension of weft to the three test looms.
It was shown that loom rpm and weft tension are less correlated and end break of weft on the Picanol was less than those of FAST and THEMA even though weft yarn tension of Picanol was highest.
Fig.22 shows one cycle weft tension variation on the 3 kinds of rapier looms.
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Fig. 22. The graph of weft yarn tension variation of three rapier looms.
As shown in Fig.22, 2 kinds of high peaks revealed on the rapier looms, weft is gripped on the gripper, at this moment, tension is highly loaded and 1st rapier handed the weft yarn to 2nd rapier, 2nd high yarn tension peak is at this moment highly loaded, so 2 kinds of peaks are shown on this Fig.22.
And it was shown that maximum peak tension was ranged from 65gf to 70gf, but in FAST loom, ranged from 85gf to 90gf and Pocanol shows the lowest tension value.
5.3 The physical properties of the worsted fabrics according to the loom characteristics
5.3.1 Fabric extensibility
For surveying the effects of the looms and finishing process to the fabric extensibility, tensile properties of gray and finished fabrics were measured using KES-FB system. For five kinds of looms, gray fabrics of left, center and right sides on the fabric were used as a specimens and then gray fabrics were processed on the finishing process. The processing method in the finishing was adopted by two ways. One way was continuous processing with five kinds of gray fabrics by sewing(overlocking) as shown in Fig. 1, the other way was discrete processing with five kinds of gray fabrics. Fig.23 shows extensibility of these gray and finished fabrics with various looms.
Fig. 23. Fabric extensibility with various looms. (EM-1 : Warp, EM-2 : Weft)
(a) (b) (c)
1: warp, 2: weft
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Fig. 24. Bending property of gray and finished fabrics woven by various looms.
As shown in Fig.23, for the warp extensibility of gray fabric, projectile(Sulzer) and rapier(THEMA) showed high values, then these looms showed high warp yarn tension and low shed amount for weaving as shown in Fig.15 and 20.
This means that the higher warp yarn tension and the lower shed amount, the more extensible of gray fabric. And the variation of extensibility on the right, center and left sides of gray fabric woven by Sulzer and THEMA weaving looms is also larger than those of other looms.
But, it is shown that these variations of gray fabric among various looms are less than those due to the method of finishing process. As shown in Fig.23, the warp extensibility of
finished fabric for the continuous ( ) and discrete ( ) finishing shows quite difference compared to gray fabric. And comparing between continuous and discrete finishing, the variation of warp extensibility among various looms by continuous finishing
( ) is smaller than that of discrete finishing ( ). That results means that discrete finishing makes fabric extensibility deviating each other.
Especially, the variation on the right, center and left sides of fabric of warp extensibility of
finished fabric ( ) woven by air-jet(Picanol A-P-L,C,R) and rapier(Picanol-GTX R-P-
L,C,R) looms is larger than that of other looms. And comparing with weft extensibility of
finished fabric between continuous and discrete finishing processes, continuous finishing is
more even than that of discrete finishing. Among five looms, the variation of fabric
extensibility of air-jet(Picanol-OMNI, A-P-L,C,R) and projectile(Sulzer, P-S-L,C,R) looms is
the smallest both warp and weft directions, gray and finished fabrics, continuous and
discrete finishing, respectively.
5.3.2 Fabric bending property
Fig.24 shows bending property of gray and finished fabrics woven by various looms.
First, at the state of gray fabric, warp bending rigidity of gray fabric woven by Picanol looms(air-jet and rapier), which showed low warp yarn tension as shown in Fig.15 and 20, shows low values compared with other rapier looms(THEMA, FAST) and
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projectile(Sulzer). After gray fabric were finished, the effects of high tension during weaving were remained for the case of continuous finishing, i.e. the variation of bending rigidity among right, center and left sides on the fabrics woven by Rapier looms(Picanol and THEMA) was not shown on the finished fabrics, which showed lower warp tension variation during weaving as shown in Fig.13 and 17. For the rapier(FAST) and projectile(Sulzer) looms, the bending rigidities on the center of the finished fabrics showed the highest values comparing to the right and left sides on the fabrics, which is originated from high warp tension during weaving. And it is shown that there was no variation of the bending rigidity according to the finishing method for the fabrics subjected under low warp yarn tension during weaving, on the other hand, for the fabrics subjected under the high warp yarn tension during weaving, the variation was high as shown in Fig.24.
5.3.3 Fabric shear property
Fig.25 shows shear rigidities of gray and finished fabrics with various looms.
Shear modulus of gray fabrics like bending rigidity showed the variation according to the
weaving looms as shown in Fig.25, i.e. High weaving tension makes shear modulus of gray
fabric high, i. e. shear modulus of gray fabrics ( ) woven by Picanol (air-jet and rapier),
which showed low warp tension during weaving, were lower than those of gray fabrics
woven by other rapier looms (Thema, FAST) and projectile (Sulzer) as shown in Fig.25. But
these variations disappeared after finishing, then shear modulus of finished fabric between
continuous ( ) and discrete ( ) finishing showed large difference. These phenomena
demonstrate the importance of finishing process to the fabric shear property, which can be
compared to the importance of weaving process to the fabric bending property.
Fig. 25. Shear rigidities of gray and finished fabrics with various looms.
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Fig. 26. Coefficient of friction of gray and finished fabrics with various looms.
5.3.4 Fabric surface property
Fig.26 shows coefficient of friction of gray and finished fabrics woven by various looms.
As shown in Fig.26, the variation of coefficient of friction (MIU) of gray fabrics ( )
according to the various looms was less than that between right and left sides on the fabric,
and the variation of the MIU of finished fabrics by continuous method ( ) according to
the various looms was also much less than that between right and left sides on the fabrics.
But the variation of finished fabric by discrete finishing method ( ) showed big
differences according to various looms and right, center and left sides on the fabric. This
result means that discrete finishing makes fabric surface property deviating.
These phenomena also demonstrate the importance of finishing process to the fabric surface
property.
5.3.5 Fabric thickness
Fig.27 shows fabric thickness of gray and finished fabrics with various looms.
As shown in Fig.27, the variation of the fabric thickness after continuous finishing ( )
did not show anymore among various looms and right, center and left sides on the same
fabric. But for the discrete finishing ( ), these variation was shown among looms and
according to the position on the fabric. This shows that finishing process is still important
like weaving tension for the control of even fabric thickness.
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Fig. 27. The fabric thickness according to the various looms.
5.4 Loom efficiency and warp and weft tension variations of PET fabrics
5.4.1 Omega and Picanol rapier looms
Table 20 shows the efficiency and stop number of 2 rapier weaving looms (Omega and Picanol) during weaving PET fabric. Fig.28 shows warp tension according to the warp position on the 2 kinds of rapier looms.
Division Loom
RPM EFF (%)
Stop number of loom Stop (%) Remark
Warp Weft Other Total Warp Weft
OMEGA
470 95.62 2.8 2.8 2.8 8.4 33.3 33.3
WP: 75D
465 73.74 39 4 27 70 55.7 5.7
461 98.57 0 0 2 2 0 0
465 97.18 3 0 3 6 50.0 0
461 85.26 0 24 14 38 0 63.2
Average 464.4 92.07 8.8 6 9.6 24.4 36.1 24.6
PICANOL-GTX
472 96.85 9.7 2.8 - 12.5 77.6 22.4
WP: 75D
466 95.85 3 6 1 10 30.0 60.0
470 94.62 3 2 1 6 50.0 33.3
469 89.44 2 22 2 26 7.7 84.6
461 83.64 2 33 1 36 5.6 91.7
Average 467.6 92.08 3.4 13 1 17.4 19.5 74.7
Table 20. Efficiency and stop number of weaving loom during the test
As seen in Table 20, efficiency showed same value as 92% both Picanol and Omega looms, respectively. It is shown that warp breakage of Omega loom was much higher than that of Picanol loom. On the other hand, weft breakage of Omega was less than that of Picanol. The reason why is due to high warp tension of Omega loom and high weft tension of Picanol loom as shown in Fig.28 and 31. As shown in Fig.28, the warp tension according to the full width of Omega loom was much higher than that of Picanol. And the warp tensions of
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79
center parts of the loom were higher than those of both edges of fabric. It is explained that the filling yarn in the middle was held firm and tightly stretched by both sides, as it has to be beaten into the warp ends, in the edge zones, the filling can relax a little from the selvedge, the extent of relax is dependent on the filling insertion system, temples and the selvedge clap, as a result, the filling is woven in a little less firmly in the middle than at the selvedges, this means that they must bind more firmly in the center than at the edges, however the length of all the warp ends coming from the warp beam are practically the same length, those in the middle must elongated more. And it is shown that the average warp tension on center area of the Omega loom is 40~45gf and 35~40gf for Picanol loom, on edge part of the Omega loom is 30~35gf, 25~30gf for Picanol loom, so Omega loom shows 15~20gf higher tension than that of Picanol loom. In addition, high tension variation on edge part of Omega loom is shown, on the other hand tension variation on center part of Picanol loom is also shown. Fig. 29 shows real warp tension variations of Omega and Picanol looms, respectively. It is shown that Omega’s warp yarn tension is much higher than that of Picanol. And 4 successive peaks and one high peak are shown both Omega and Picanol looms.
拠 許
挙 拒
挙 許
渠 拒
渠 許
虚 拒
虚 許
許 拒
強拠
拠拒
挙拒
渠拒
虚拒
許拒
距拒
鋸拒
漁拒
禦拒
漁拒
鋸拒
距拒
許拒
虚拒
渠拒
挙拒
拠拒
教拠
矯 仰 欣錦 錦 巾 欽玉琴玉巾 均 級尭 勤 糾
矯仰欣錦 琴業均欽玉巾均級曲局糾
恭 喬共 A 怯 恐 強
恐 彊 協 卿 A
Fig. 28. Warp tension according to the warp position.
(a) Omega (b) Picanol
Fig. 29. The graph of warp yarn tension of OMEGA and Picanol rapier looms.
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Fig. 30 shows the shed amount and warp tension of each 10 heald frames at the center part
of the loom both Picanol and Omega looms, respectively. As shown in Fig.30, shed amounts
both Picanol and Omega looms were increased from front heald to back one even though
warp tension of each heald is almost same, but very slowly increased. That means that there
is some relationship between shed movement and warp yarn tension on the each heald
frame, and it is needed for clean shedding. Fig. 31 shows weft yarn tension variation of
Omega and Picanol, respectively. As shown in Fig. 31, weft yarn tension of Picanol was
higher than that of Omega. And it was shown that Picanol has distinct 2 peaks but Omega
has unstable and subtle 4 or 5 peaks.
Fig. 30. Relation between warp yarn tension and amount of shed.
(a) Omega (b) Picanol
Fig. 31. The graph of weft yarn tension of Omega and Picanol rapier looms.
5.4.2 Omega and Vamatex rapier looms
Table 21 shows the efficiency and stop number of two rapier looms (Omega and Vamatex).
Fig. 32 shows warp tension according to the warp position on the Omega and Vamatex
looms.
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Loom RPM Efficiency
(%)
Stop number of loom Stop (%)
Warp Weft Other Total Warp Weft
Omega 466 97.45 13 3 0 16 81.2 18.8
Vamatex 423 99.57 3 0 0 3 100 0
Table 21. Efficiency and stop number of weaving loom for the test
拠拒
挙拒
渠拒
虚拒
許拒
距拒
鋸拒
漁拒
禦拒
強拠
強許
強拠拒
強拠許
強挙拒
強挙許
強渠拒
強渠許
強虚拒
強虚許
強許拒
強許許
強距拒
強鋸拒
強漁拒
強禦拒
教漁拒
教鋸拒
教距拒
教許許
教許拒
教虚許
教虚拒
教渠許
教渠拒
教挙許
教挙拒
教拠許
教拠拒
教許
教拠
矯 仰欣錦 錦巾欽玉琴玉巾均 級尭勤 糾
矯仰欣錦 琴業均欽玉巾均 級曲局糾
恐 勤 業曲仰
狭仰勤 仰琴業緊
Fig. 32. Warp tension according to warp position
As shown in Table 21 and Fig. 32, efficiency shows 97.45% and 99.57%, respectively. The
warp tensions according to the full width of Omega loom were higher than those of
Vamatex. And it was shown that the warp tension of center part of the loom was higher
than those of both edges parts of the loom. Fig. 33 shows one cycle warp yarn tension
variation of 2 types of rapier looms. As shown in Fig. 33, warp yarn tension distribution in
Omega was ranged from 50gf to 60gf, but ranged from 40gf to 60gf for the Vamatex. And
four or five successive peaks and one high peak were shown in the Fig. 33.
(a) Omega (b) Vamatex
Fig. 33. The variation of warp yarn tension of rapier looms.
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Table 22 and Fig.34 show the shed amount and warp tension of each 10 heald frames at the center of the loom both Omega and Vamatex.
HealdLoom
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
OMEGA -Panter
shed amount (mm) 70 74 78 82 84 87 93 98 97 98
warp tension (gf) 72 71 76 79 80 71 71 78 80 85
VAMATEX Shed amount (mm) 63 68 74 79 83 88 93 98 103 108
Warp tension (gf) 48 51 49 57 57 65 61 66 64 69
Table 22. The shedding amount and warp tension of the test weaving looms
禦漁禦鋸禦漁
禦渠
漁鋸漁虚
漁挙鋸漁
鋸虚
鋸拒
拠拒漁
拠拒渠
禦漁
禦渠漁漁
漁渠鋸禦
鋸虚
距漁
距渠
7271
76
7980
71 71
7880
85
69
6665
5757
4951
48
61
64
拒
挙拒
虚拒
距拒
漁拒
拠拒拒
拠挙拒
拠虚拒
拠距拒
拠 挙 渠 虚 許 距 鋸 漁 禦 拠拒
叫 業仰僅暁 局欣仰勤 業
橋極業暁 仰
勤巾禁均琴 級尭
勤糾
拒
挙拒
虚拒
距拒
漁拒
拠拒拒
矯仰欣錦
琴業均欽玉巾均 級曲糾
恐 彊 協卿 A 橋極業暁 仰勤 巾禁均琴
狭A彊 A況協胸 橋極業暁 仰勤 巾禁均琴
恐 彊 協卿 A 矯 仰欣錦 琴業均欽玉巾均
狭A彊 A況協胸 矯 仰欣錦 琴業均欽玉巾均
Fig. 34. Relation between warp yarn tension and shed amount.
It is shown that shed amount was increased from 1st heald to 10th one, and warp yarn tension was proportional to the shed amount.
Table 23 shows weft yarn tension and end break of weft yarn on the 2 kinds of looms.
Fig. 35 shows one cycle weft yarn tension variation of the Omega and Vamatex looms.
Loom RPM Max. weft tension Number of end break
Omega-Panter 466 81.0 3
Vamatex 423 81.3 0
Table 23. Weft tension and end break of weft on the two looms.
As shown in Table 23, maximum weft yarn tension was 81gf in Omega and 81.3gf in
Vamatex, but end break of Omega was 3 and zero for Vamatex. The reason why seems to be
due to high weft yarn tension fluctuation in Omega loom which is shown in Fig. 35. As
shown in Fig.35, weft yarn tension variation of Vamatex was much more stable and lower
compared to Omega loom.
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(a) Omega (b) Vamatex
Fig. 35. The variation of weft yarn tension of 2 rapier looms.
5.5 Fabric physical properties according to the rapier looms
5.5.1 Comparison between Picanol and Omega
Fig. 36 shows the diagram of relative fabric mechanical properties between Picanol and Omega looms. It is shown that the tensile properties in the warp direction of the fabrics woven by Omega loom were higher than those of woven by Picanol loom, the same phenomena in bending properties were shown, which seems to be due to the higher warp tension of the Omega than Picanol loom. But that tendency was not shown in the weft direction. That phenomena shows that warp yarn tension during weaving on Omega loom affects fabric tensile and bending properties, on the other hand, weft yarn tension on Picanol loom does not affect so much. Contrary to the tensile and bending properties, the shear properties of the fabrics in the warp direction woven by Picanol loom was higher than that of woven by Omega loom, but, in the weft direction, the fabric shear properties woven by Omega loom was much higher than that of Picanol loom. And there was no difference of the compression properties between fabrics woven by Picanol and Omega looms. This result demonstrates that shear deformation of fabrics was combined with deformation of warp and weft yarns, high warp yarn tension during weaving on the Omega loom makes low shear rigidity and shear friction of the fabrics in the warp direction, and high weft yarn tension during weaving on the Picanol loom makes low shear rigidity and shear friction of the fabrics in the weft direction.
(a) warp direction (b) weft direction
Fig. 36. The diagram of relative fabric mechanical properties between Picanol and Omera looms.( Picanol: shadow(100%), — : Omega)
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Fig. 37 shows the diagram of the fabric mechanical properties between Picanol and Omega according to the fabric positions.
(a) warp direction (Omega) (b) weft direction (Omega)
(c) warp direction (Picanol) (d) weft direction (Picanol)
Fig. 37. The diagram of relative fabric mechanical properties between Picanol and Omega according to the fabric positions.(center : shadow(100%), — : left, … : right)
As shown in Fig. 37, concerning the tensile properties according to the fabric position such as right, center and left sides, the fabric woven by Omega loom doesn’t show big difference of mechanical properties according to the fabric position, but Picanol shows big difference according to the fabric position compared with Omega. In addition, comparing Fig. 37 (a) and (c) in warp direction and Fig. 37 (b) and (d) in weft direction, the differences of the fabric mechanical properties according to the position of the fabrics woven by Picanol were higher than those of the fabrics woven by Omega loom.
It seems to be originated from high fluctuation of warp and weft yarn tensions of Picanol loom during weaving as shown in Fig. 28 and 29. Especially, the shear properties variation according to the position of the fabric woven by Picanol was larger than that of
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Omega, which makes homogeneity of the fabric hand and tailorability of garment deteriorating.
拒
拒居挙
拒居虚
拒居距
拒居漁
拠
拠居挙
拠居虚
拒 拠 挙 渠 虚 許 距 鋸 漁 禦 拠拒 拠拠
匡仰凝欣玉尭 錦巾欽玉琴玉巾均欽 巾均 琴極業 筋 仰欣錦 暁玉欣業尭琴玉巾均
況極玉尭粁均業欽欽
級勤勤糾
恐 彊 協 卿 A 級僅業局琴糾
恐 彊 協 卿 A 級欣玉曲極琴糾
恭喬共 A 怯 恐 強 級僅業局琴糾
恭喬共 A 怯 恐 強 級欣玉曲極琴糾
Fig. 38. The thickness variation on the right and left and sides of the finished fabrics.
(a) warp direction (b) weft direction (c) warp direction (Omega)
(d) weft direction (Omega) (e) warp direction (Picanol) (d) weft direction (Picanol)
Fig. 39. Fabric surface properties according to the looms and fabric positions.
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Fig. 38 shows the thickness variation on the right and left sides of the finished fabrics on the 10 positions of the fabric warp direction. As shown in Fig.38, one or two positions along fabric warp direction on the right and left sides of the fabric showed a little thick positions comparing to the other positions of the fabrics woven by both Picanol and Omega looms.
Fig. 39 shows fabric surface properties between Picanol and Omega looms and according to the fabric positions such as right, left and center. As shown in Fig. 39, MIU(coefficient of friction) and MMD(deviation of MIU) of the fabrics woven by Omega was lower than those by Picanol loom but, SMD(surface roughness) showed higher value than Picanol. But especially the differences of these values according to the fabric positions were much higher than those of looms.
5.5.2 Comparison between Vamatex and Omega
Fig. 40 shows diagram of process shrinkage of the warp and weft directions according to loom on the each dyeing and finishing processes.
As shown in Fig. 40, any differences of each process shrinkages between Vamatex and Omega could not find, which means that two grey fabrics woven by Vamatex and Omega were proceeded at the same process conditions on the dyeing and finishing processes. It can be seen that 20% of weave contraction was occurred and 30% thermal shrinkage after scouring and drying was occurred, and 12% relaxing expansion on the pre-set, dyeing and final set was occurred.
拒
拠拒
挙拒
渠拒
虚拒
許拒
距拒
矯 仰欣錦玉均曲 卿 欣業芹 共 芹僅玉均暁業欣 暁欣芹業欣 橋尭巾禁欣玉均曲 恭欣業去欽業琴 凶 芹業玉均曲 匡玉均仰僅去欽業琴
橋極欣玉均粁仰曲業級%
糾 居
恐 勤 業曲仰去矯 錦 恐 勤 業曲仰去矯 局 狭仰勤 仰琴業緊去矯 錦 狭仰勤 仰琴業緊去矯 局
Fig. 40. Shrinkage of the fabrics according to the weaving machine.
Fig. 41 shows comparison diagram of fabric mechanical properties between Vamatex and
Omega, which shows relative values of fabric woven by Omega to the mechanical properties
of the fabric woven by Vamatex.
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The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics for Emotional Garment According to the Weaving Loom Characteristics
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(a) warp direction (b) weft direction
Fig. 41. The diagram of relative fabric mechanical properties between Vamatex and Omega looms.
As shown in Fig. 41 (a), tensile energy (WT), and extensibility (EM) of the fabric woven by
Omega were much higher than those by Vamatex on the warp direction, which seems to be
due to high warp tension of the Omega loom which was shown in Fig. 33. But, this
phenomena was not shown on the weft direction as shown in Fig. 41 (b), which seems to be
due to the same on the weft tension between Vamatex and Omega looms which was shown
in Fig. 35. The tensile resilience of Vamatex was a little higher than that of Omega, which
means that elastic recovery of fabric woven by Vamatex is better than that by Omega. It was
shown that the bending rigidity of fabric woven by Omega was a little higher than that by
Vamatex, which is also due to high weaving tension of Omega loom which was shown in
Fig. 33, Any difference of fabric shear property between Omega and Vamatex was not
shown and also was not shown in fabric compressional property. These results demonstrate
that fabric tensile and bending properties are affected by warp yarn tension of loom, fabric
shear and compressional properties are not affected by only warp tension, which properties
are affected by both warp and weft tensions.
6. Conclusion
Linear relationship between warp yarn tension and shed amount of loom for the worsted fabric was shown. Warp yarn tension variation for the worsted fabric between edge sides of fabric and center of fabric was above about 20gf, the highest at center part and the lowest at the right side as viewed in front of loom. These shed amount and warp yarn tension affect extensibility and bending rigidity of finished fabrics, i.e. the higher warp yarn tension and the lower shed amount, the more extensible gray fabric. The warp extensibility of finished fabric for the continuous and discrete finishing showed big difference, the variation of warp extensibility among various looms by continuous finishing was smaller than that of discrete finishing. Warp bending rigidity of gray fabric woven under low warp yarn tension showed
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low values, after finished, the effects of high warp yarn tension during weaving were remained for the case of continuous finishing. The bending rigidity on the center of the finished fabrics showed the highest values comparing to the right and left sides on the fabrics, which is originated from high yarn tension for weaving. Shear modulus of gray fabrics showed the variation according to the weaving looms, i.e. high weaving tension makes shear modulus of gray fabric high. But, these variation of shear modulus of gray fabric disappeared after finishing, this phenomena demonstrates the importance of finishing process to the fabric shear property. Fabric surface property was almost same as the fabric shear property. And finishing process is much more important than weaving tension for the control of even fabric thickness. The warp and weft tensions, shed amount among various looms for PET fabrics showed different characteristics. The tensile and bending properties in the warp direction of the fabrics woven by low tension loom showed higher values than those of high tension loom owing to the high warp yarn tension, on the other hand, shear property showed lower value. On the weft direction, contrary phenomena was shown. Concerning the variation of the mechanical properties according to the fabric positions, the fabric woven by high tension loom showed more fluctuation than that of low tension loom. It seems that these results make fabric hand and garment tailorability deteriorating. The shed amount and warp tension for PET fabrics were also increased from front heald to back one like worsted fabrics. Warp tension variation according to the warp position showed same phenomena as the worsted fabrics.
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Woven FabricsEdited by Prof. Han-Yong Jeon
ISBN 978-953-51-0607-4Hard cover, 296 pagesPublisher InTechPublished online 16, May, 2012Published in print edition May, 2012
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"Woven Fabrics" is a unique book which covers topics from traditional to advanced fabrics widely used in IT,NT, BT, ET, ST industry fields. In general, woven fabrics are known as the traditional textile fabrics for apparelmanufacturing and are used widely in various fabric compositions as intermediate goods that affect humanactivities. The relative importance of woven fabrics as traditional textile materials is extremely large andcurrently application fields of woven fabrics as technical textiles are rapidly expanded by utilizing its geometricfeatures and advantages. For example, the book covers analytical approaches to fabric design, micro andnano technology needed to make woven fabrics, as well as the concept for industrial application.
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Seung Jin Kim and Hyun Ah Kim (2012). The Physical Properties of Woven Fabrics for Emotional GarmentAccording to the Weaving Loom Characteristics, Woven Fabrics, Prof. Han-Yong Jeon (Ed.), ISBN: 978-953-51-0607-4, InTech, Available from: http://www.intechopen.com/books/woven-fabrics/the-physical-properties-of-woven-fabrics-for-emotional-garment-according-to-the-weaving-loom-charact