The Mayfair Magazine October 2012

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8Editors Letter | The mayfair magazine

EditorFrom the

To the residents of Mayfair, October signifies a most artistic month: new exhibitions beckon from the galleries of Cork Street and the surrounding mews, Berkeley Square once again plays host to PAD London art fair and just a stones throw away, in the leafy Regents Park, begins the now world-famous Frieze London, which this year celebrates a decade of bringing contemporary art to London, in a park.

In such a fast-paced industry it can be hard to keep track of the names to know God forbid you confuse your Wirth with your Wyndham so to help, we have asked Mike Peake to construct a cheat sheet Whos Who of the art world neatly summing up everything you need for October dinner conversation (page 15).

Now for some, art means a beautifully framed painting, lit to perfection and hung reverently on a south-facing wall away from the children; to others it means something altogether different, something that resides in your wardrobe until the day you decide to step inside it, lighting up your world with colours and fabrics so beautiful you feel like a work of art yourself. I am firmly in the latter camp. This month, I met fashions answer to Michelangelo Manolo Blahnik as he launches his new dedicated space in Harrods, and found him to be as full of wit, fun and inspiration as you would imagine (page 32).

And aesthetics aside (for the philistines among us), October is also a great month for shooting, the weather is crisp but not yet really cold and days are still long enough to keep a great party going for as long as the conversation and red wine lasts. On the likely assumption that the subject has not crossed your mind for several months since you last locked up your gun and pulled out your sunglasses, Nick Hammond brings you the top tips for the new season ahead, encompassing everything from buying new cartridges to proper shooting etiquette (page 84).

And for those who would rather spend time by the fire with a book and a fabulous bottle of something, make sure you check out Mayfairs newly opened Hedonism Wines for the most prestigious cellar you will ever see (page 118). If anyone needs me

Elle BlakemanActing Editor

Follow us on Twitter @MayfairMagazine

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Mayfair Magazine Runwild FPSeptember.indd 1 16/08/2012 12:35:20

ContentsFeatures015 | Whos who in the art world MikePeakenamessome

ofthemosticonicpeopleintheartindustrytoday

020 | Art phenomenon: four days of Frieze in London

Celebrate10yearsofthefamousFriezeLondonartfair

026 | Off the wall TamsinPickeralexploresthe

surprisingriseofurbanartinwell-heeledMayfaircircles

032 | Head over heels ElleBlakemanmeetstheman

whomadeartoutofshoes,ManoloBlahnik

038 | Paper chase Thelatestartbookstoinspire

yourcreativeside,fromSalvadorDaltoElliottErwitt

082 | The hunt is on NickHammondhelpsus

prepareforanewshootingseasonwithallhistoptipsandetiquetteguide

086 | Outside the lines Doartandcarsmakegood

bedfellows?ApparentlysoaccordingtomotoringexpertRichardYarrow

090 | Marine engineering WetakealookatZaha

HadidslatestprojectthefuturisticZ-boat

regulars 008 | Editors letter012 | Contributors041 | Couture culture043 | My life in Mayfair:

AndrewRenton127 | Suite dreams: BrownsHotel139 | Remembering Mayfair:

HardRockCafe

art045 | Art news046 | Exhibition focus CarolCordreyexploresa

centuryofHollywoodcostumesattheV&A

051 | Prize lots

ColleCtion057 | Watch news058 | From the office to

the open sea RichardBrownspeaksto

AngeloBonati,CEOofPanerai,attheannualPaneraiClassicYachtsChallenge

062 | Not stirred Thismonthouraccessory

drawerisinspiredbyBond065 | Jewellery news067 | Time to shine Red-Carpetglamourfrom

ChopardatCannes

Fashion068 | The bold and the beautiful ItsacolourfulA/W12in

thismonthsfashionshoot074 | Long live McQueen

CommemoratingthecareerofLeeAlexanderMcQueen,StephenDoigrevisitshislifeandlegacy

079 | Style update/Style spy

interiors093 | Interiors news094 | Hix appeal Wemeetcelebritychefand

artcuratorMarkHix098 | Great expectations KariRosenbergmeetsthe

elusivedesignerofTheArtsClub,DaviddAlmada

Beauty105 | Beauty news106 | Brains & beauty ElleBlakemanstepsintothe

glamorousworldofTerrydeGunzburg,todiscusshernewcollectionandlifeafterYSL

111 | Spa review: TheBerkeley

Food and drink115 | Food & drink news116 | A heady brew NeilRidleyraisesaglass

atHedonismWinesaconnoisseursparadiserightintheheartofMayfair

120 | Game on Asthehuntingseasonarrives,

wesearchLondonforthebestgrouseintown.

124 | Restaurant review: Banca

travel131 | Travel news 132 | The art of travel WejourneytoZurichtothe

exquisiteandmasterpiece-filledDolderGrandhotel

136 | City guide: Amsterdam WepayavisittheNetherlands

capitalandfindthatautumnistheidealtimetospendtimeamongthepicturesquecanalsandvibrantartscene

ProPerty142 | Hot property

ParkLane,Mayfair144 | The whole nine yards

9GrosvenorCrescent169 | Property news182 | Voice from the country 184 | Villa Les Rochers

Ourtoppickoftheinternationalmarket

October 2012

079

093

136 032

090

041

12

Contributors | The mayfair magazine

Proudly published by

7 Heron Quay, Canary Wharf, London E14 4JB020 7987 4320www.rwmg.co.uk

EditorKate Harrison

Acting EditorElle Blakeman

Acting Deputy Editor Kari Rosenberg

Art EditorCarol Cordrey

Food & Drink EditorNeil Ridley

Collection EditorAnnabel Harrison

Editorial AssistantKate Racovolis

Head of DesignHiren Chandarana

Senior DesignerLisa Wade

Production ManagerFiona Fenwick

ProductionHugo Wheatley, Alex Powell

Editor-at-LargeLesley Ellwood

Client Relationship Director

Kate Oxbrow

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Associate PublisherSophie Roberts

Managing DirectorEren Ellwood

OCTOBER 2012 s i ssuE 013

Runwild Media Ltd. cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. While

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Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish and edit any letters. All rights reserved.

DISTRIBUTION:The Mayfair Magazine is distributed in Mayfair, St Jamess and Belgravia as well as selected parts of Knightsbridge,

Chelsea and Marylebone.

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BEING BLUNTLondon girL Emily Blunt dreams of returning to the capitaL fuLL-time

From fine wine to watches, cars to gems; why vintage is the new investment buzzwordBETTER WITH AGE

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the cit

y m

agazine

october 2012

60

bond on bondbond on bond

the citym a g a z i n e

Sir roger Moore KBe talks girls, gadgets and style as 007 turns 50 this year

IMAgE: MARILyn MonRoE In Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953), CoURTESy oF HARRy WInSTon/gETTy. hollYWood CostUme sPonsored BY hArrY WInston oPEnS AT THE V&A on 20 oCToBER (WWW.VAM.AC.UK) See page 46

CaROl CORDRey Carol is an art critic and editor. She organises the annual London Ice Sculpting Festival and is permanently on the art scene bringing us the latest happenings.

mIke peakeMike has written extensively the sunday times and daily telegraph. This month, he researches the top names to know in the Mayfair art world.

RIChaRD yaRROwRichard is a freelance motoring journalist and a former associate editor of Auto express. He writes for national newspapers, consumer publications and the automotive business press.

SImON BaRNeSSimon is a property consultant with over 20 years of experience, focusing on the prime residential market in Mayfair and Belgravia. This month, he talks to us about the latest news in Mayfair.

NeIl RIDleyLondon-based food and drink expert neil has written for The evening standard, Whisky magazine and the Chap, and this month, looks all over Mayfair for the perfect grouse.

kaTe RaCOvOlISAn alum of Columbia Universitys Journalism School, Kate has lived in Melbourne and new york writing about fashion and culture. This month, she reports on Zaha Hadids latest project.

The contributors

Also published by

coverOn the

STepheN DOIg Stephen is an award-winning fashion writer having worked for harpers Bazaar and mr Porter. This month, he commemorates the life and legacy of Lee Alexander McQueen.

TamSIN pICkeRalTamsin is a published author, art historian and critic. one of her recent books was voted within the top 50 Art Books of the year by the financial times. This month, she celebrates a decade of Frieze London.

IWC Pilot. Engineered for aviators.

I can see you.

Spitfire Chronograph. Ref. 3878: Back in the days of the dogfights, there was no technology to do the flying for you. A pilot who wanted to get the most out of his Spitfire needed to

have an eye on every detail. The same goes today for an IWC Spitfire Chronograph, incidentally: the big central seconds hand together with the date display and the propeller-inspired hour and minute hands are all within the pilots field of vision. And that could hardly be more appealing. IWC. Engineered for men.

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convex, antireflective coating on both sides | Water-resistant 6 bar | Stainless steel

IWC Schaf fhausen, Switzer land. www.iwc.com

The wor lds f inest t imepieces are exclus ive ly avai lable f rom se lected watch specia l ists. For an i l lustrated cata logue or l ist of nat ionwide concessionaires please contact IWC UK. Te l. 0845 337 1868.

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The mayfair magazine | Feature

15

in theart worldWhos who


From gallery owners to auctioneers, buyers, directors and of course, the artists: these are the names you need to know

word s : m i k e p e a k e

15

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Sheikha Al MayassaBuyerQatar is the worlds biggest buyer of contemporary art, and the woman charged with making sure they get the best is the 28-year-old daughter of the Emir of Qatar. Among the purchases Al Mayassa is thought to have helped orchestrate are Paul Cezannes The Card Players for a record 154m, approximately, and Andy Warhols Men In Her Life, which sold for around 39m. Following rumours of a bid to buy Christies in 2011, Qatar poached its chairman Edward Dolman, who now works alongside Al Mayassa as the executive director of the Qatar Museums Authority.

Julia Peyton-JonesCo-director of the Serpentine GalleryA former artist herself and a walking encyclopaedia of contemporary art, Peyton-Jones is widely credited with helping to bring more than 800,000 people a year into the free-to-enter Serpentine Gallery on the other side of Hyde Park. Pleasingly, she has no plans to move on: Its like making a painting, she said last year. You stand back from it and realise it needs a little more red in the top right corner. I dont have a path carved out. Her fellow co-director, Hans Ulrich Obrist, is another big name on virtually every whos who in art list.

Ai WeiweiArtistNamed Number One on ArtReviews most recent Power 100 list, Chinese artist Weiwei is as well known for his provocative political stance as his contemporary art. Fiercely critical of his countrys government who imprisoned him for 81 days in 2011 it is his take on global events which have inspired some of his most arresting work, such as Remembering, a wall of Chinese text made up of childrens backpacks following the devastating 2008 Sichuan earthquake.

Hockney was named as the most influential British artist of all time

Ai WeiWei, Never Sorry Film Still by ted Alcorn

leFt: PHoto

by Jo

Hn SWAnnell

rigHt: PHoto

by lindA nylind,

courteSy oF lindA nylind/Frieze


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Matthew Slotover and Amanda SharpOrganisers of The Frieze Art FairThese two are the publishing directors of art magazine Frieze, and since 2003 have been bringing contemporary art to Regents Park for what has become a globally significant event. Bewilderingly big, said Guardian writer Miranda Sawyer of last years Frieze Art Fair: this years, which runs from 11-14 October, will feature 174 galleries and Slotover and Sharp will be right in the thick of it.

David HockneyPainterA recent poll of 1,000 British painters and sculptors saw Hockney named the most influential British artist of all time. He embraced the iPad as an artistic tool; he was awarded an Order Of Merit by the Queen earlier this year and he continues to hold sway over the art world. One of his most famous works A Bigger Splash is one of the Tates most prized possessions; its brother The Splash was sold for 2.6m by Sothebys in 2006.

Henry WyndhamAuctioneerThe chairman of Sothebys UK joined the company in 1994 and, by keeping a firm grip on his auctioneers hammer, has made sure that his day job retains a sense of pleasure for him. In 2010, he oversaw the sale of Giacomettis Walking Man (below) which went for a then-record 65m. In June of this year, he led an Impressionist and Modern Art Sale which realised more than 75m in one evening and brought the companys 2012 total in that field to 435m worldwide.

Tim JefferiesGallery ownerOwner of Hamiltons, the UKs leading photography gallery, Tim Jefferies has brought some of the best names in photography to Mayfair from his imposing Carlos Place location, with shows including Helmut Newton, Annie Leibovitz and Richard Avedon. Not content with dominating the London photography scene, Jefferies is on the select committee of Paris Photo, meanwhile back in Mayfair he caused a stir by introducing Hamiltons to the Pavilion of Art & Design and Masterpiece. He has been the Chairman of The Serpentine Gallery Summer Party for the past decade and is the go-to advisor for several high-profile companies and private clients looking to adorn their walls with contemporary masters counting Sir Elton John, Tom Ford and the

Le Bons as clients.

Hockney was named as the most influential British artist of all time

Giacomettis WalkinG man

DaViD HockneY BRiDlinGton stUDio FeBRUaRY 2009 DaViD HockneYPHoto: GReGoRY eVans

HenRY WYnDHam at tHe tURneR aUction sHot in JUlY 2010

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Charles Saumarez SmithChief Executive of the Royal Academy Of Arts Formerly the director of The National Portrait Gallery and also the National Gallery, this vastly knowledgeable art guru currently sits in the big chair at one of the worlds most revered art institutions, right here in Piccadilly. The London Evening Standard described Saumarez Smith as mild mannered but quietly steely and named him one of the most important people on Londons vibrant art scene.

JR ArtistYou could call him the French Banksy due to his enigmatic persona and the fact that JR likes to leave his mark on public spaces, but his forte is giant photographs not stencils pasted onto buildings. These visually-stunning pieces won the much-admired street art maestro a $100,000 TED prize last year. Two of his greatest ever projects involved bringing street art to shanty towns in Kenya and Brazil, where the slums became his canvas.

Two of his greatest ever projects involved bringing

street art to shanty towns in Kenya and Brazil

Larry GagosianGallery ownerIf there is such a thing as a chain store in the art world, Larry Gagosians 11-strong Gagosian Galleries (including a small but perfectly-formed space in Davies Street, Mayfair) are it. One of the industrys most powerful players, Gagosian was described this year by Forbes as leading the rise of the superdealer. The Financial Times simply call him the worlds most successful art dealer, and he certainly enjoys his job: collecting for himself, he says, is a perk.

portrait oF Jr Christopher shay

right: im

age Courtesy oF gagosian gallery

photo

graph

by mariana Cook


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Iwan WirthGallery ownerNamed one of the most powerful players in contemporary art by The New York Times, this Swiss high-flier and co-owner of the Hauser & Wirth art empire has galleries in Zurich, Piccadilly, Manhattan and Savile Row. The Daily Telegraph describe him as charming and say that his relationship with his artists is part of the secret of his success. Hes sold everything from Picasso to Martin Creed winner of the 2001 Turner Prize for a piece called Work No: 227, which was based around a set of lights being turned on and off.

Two of his greatest ever projects involved bringing

Francois PinaultCollectorBillionaire French businessman whose passion for owning major international retail brands is only matched by his love of collecting art. In Venice, he has one of Europes largest private displays of contemporary works. His first painting was by Paul Srusier in 1980; ten years later he had bought a Mondrian for approximately 5.5m and today he has a reputed 2,000-plus pieces in his portfolio including art by Damien Hirst and Jeff Koons.

Jeff KoonsArtistArguably Americas most talked-about living artist whose most striking work has been based around giant balloon creations such as Balloon Flower (Magenta) which sold for more than 15.5m at Christies London in 2008. Other famous pieces include three gold statues of Michael Jackson and his chimpanzee, Bubbles, one of which sold for around 3.5m in 1991. German artist Gerhard Richter is one of the few living artists that regularly rivals his success at the auction house.

The Physical imPossibiliTy of DeaTh in The minD of someone living, damien hirst 1991

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Art Phen omenon: Four days of Frieze in Lon

don

Still life BY GiorGio Morandi, CourtesY of Galleria darte MaGGiore G.a.M


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Art Phen omenon:

As Frieze London celebrates its tenth anniversary, Tamsin Pickeral takes a tour to see why the art fair is one of the industrys hottest calendar dates

Four days of Frieze in London


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October has rolled around again with alarming speed, bringing with it the delights of Frieze London, and a particularly special one this year as

the arts and culture phenomenon celebrates its tenth birthday. For four days, October 11-14, London is home to one of the most prestigious contemporary art events in the world, bringing together 175 leading international art galleries from 35 different countries under one specially designed temporary structure in Regents Park. Architects such as Carmody Groarke, who designed last years extraordinary wooden structure, will again be wowing visitors this year with their work, while galleries from across the world will be showcasing their most interesting artists more than 1,000 of them each with works for sale. The international nature of Frieze London allows visitors a unique opportunity to enjoy an unprecedented range of artistic talent, all beneath one roof and set within the grounds of one of Londons most beautiful parks.

The event is much more than an art show however and has continually expanded since its inception a decade ago to become a cultural hub, albeit for a rare few days a year. Running in conjunction with the art show are a number of inspired programmes including a series of keynote lectures held daily by leading art critics, philosophers and intellectuals constituting Frieze

Talk. There is also Frieze Film, which brings together five specifically commissioned artist films to be shown in a specially constructed temporary cinema, Frieze Projects and the coveted Emdash Award. The former consists of a series of site-specific special commissions from five chosen artists, curated by Sarah McCrory. McCrory was appointed curator of the Frieze Projects in 2009 and alongside working with well-known artists has also long been a champion of emerging and underrepresented artists. She brings particular flair to the Frieze Projects, which have this year been undertaken by the artists Thomas Bayrle, Asl avuolu, Joanna Rajkowska, DIS Magazine and the Grizedale Arts / Yangjiang Group. This eclectic group will be presenting an extraordinarily diverse range of artistic experiences to challenge preconceived ideas and stimulate discussion. Two stunning pieces by internationally

acclaimed German artist Thomas Bayrle, regarded as a key figure in the European Pop Art movement, greet visitors at the entrance to the fair and in the public squares. These dazzling works are taken from designs he originally produced in 1967 (derived from a pair of loafers) and the Laughing Cow motif from the French cheese brand. Bayrles work is typically ironic, touched with wry humour and invariably presents deep social commentary. At Frieze London he will bring his long engagement with advertising campaigns and mass iconography to the fore. Looking at the representation of art on television and particularly in crime series, is the nexus for Turkish artist Asl avuolus thought- provoking piece, Murder in Three Acts. avuolu examines how artworks become

Frieze London has continually expanded since its inception ten years ago to become a cultural hub

ABOVE:ImprOVEd rAck BY mIchAEl

JOO, cOurtEsY Of kukJE GAllErYrIGht: Venus

ordering armour for aeneas at

Vulcans forge BY GAEtAnO GAndOlfI,

cOurtEsY Of cOlnAGhI


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integral to the script of crime drama, even to the extent of their use as potential murder weapons. Murder in Three Acts is presented as a real-time performance with actors but also extends to involve visitors to the fair with an emphasis on discussion and debate surrounding the role of artworks in televised crime scenes. Performance of another kind runs at the foundation of Polish artist Joanna Rajkowskas project, Forcing a Miracle. This moving and contemplative piece takes place close to the fair in Regents Park, transforming a small patch of grass into a mystical smoking corner of metaphysical reflections. Rajkowskas smoke represents the emanation of thoughts, those of the artist and the visitors and deep wishes and heartfelt emotions entwined within ancient religious and secular traditions.

Entirely different in nature is the project by DIS Magazine, a fashion, art and commerce publication produced by the dynamic team of Lauren Boyle, Solomon Chase, Marco Roso, Nick Scholl and David Toro with a number of collaborators. DIS explores new ways of documenting art and issues to challenge the way people look at and comprehend different subjects. At Frieze London this year they will do a photo shoot on site using the fair, its architecture, visitors and art as both subject matter and backdrop. The final project is by the Grizedale Arts /

Yangjiang Group and examines the use-value of art in the form of a specially constructed structure that will house a number of artists who work with food, along with performances, talks and dining experiences.An exciting addition to the fair this year is


25

Ccile B Evans, the winner of the Emdash Award for emerging artists living outside the UK. This award, which is run by the Frieze Foundation in collaboration with Gasworks and the Emdash Foundation, has now been going for a number of years and encourages site specific installations in the form of performance, film, video or print work. Evans, the winner of the award, is given a three-month residency at Gasworks studios, 10,000 towards production costs and a fee. The Berlin-based artist has produced an inspired audio guide to

the fair that features non-art experts discussing the pieces in subjective terms and

is accompanied by a holographic guide. Evans use of non-art experts allows the pieces to be discussed in very real and identifiable terms and offers a different perspective from the normal art critique. It also underlines how art is, and should be accessible to everyone.In addition to marking the tenth anniversary,

2012 has also been a year of several firsts for Frieze. In May of this year Frieze New York, a sister fair to London, was launched with great success in Randalls Island Park, Manhattan. Overlooking the East River, it is set to be a new annual must visit diary date, meanwhile Frieze London this year welcomes the inaugural Frieze Masters. Housed in a bespoke temporary building by Annabelle Selldorf in Regents Park near to Frieze London, Frieze Masters, a second art fair, presents key pieces of ancient and modern art alongside each other. The relationship between contemporary and historical art will be addressed through this juxtaposition with a programme of lectures by leading artists, critics and curators. Within Frieze London itself will be several new areas including Focus, a section for galleries established since 2001 and showing up to three artists, and Frame, a section for galleries established less than six years ago and selected on the basis of a proposed solo stand.All in all, both Frieze London and Frieze Masters

look set to be an artistic and cultural treat with something for everyone and perhaps a few unexpected surprises in store.

Frieze Masters, a second art fair, presents key pieces of ancient and modern art alongside each other

from left:EmpirEs BordErs by Chen Chieh-Jen,Courtesy of long marCh spaCe;UntitlEd by franz West, Courtesy of gagosian gallery; bez tytulu by Wilhelm sasnal, Courtesy of the artist and foksal gallery foundation, WarsaW

26

Off the

Ever since Bonhams became the first auction house to hold an Urban Art Sale, street art has entered the consciousness of the elite in a way like never before. As the star of these artists continues to rise within well-heeled Mayfair circles, Tamsin Pickeral takes a look

at the super-cool genre that just keeps selling

26

wallS

treet Art; you can love it or hate it, although the former is now the governing view among ever-widening audiences. Street art has its share of enemies though; it is, after all, undertaken illegally in many cases. But

putting that to one side for a moment, it is also an art form that traditionalists simply do not understand and subsequently vilify as having no substance. The bottom line is that a large number of street artists are extraordinarily talented and bring together some of the most exciting creative and inspired works currently making waves on the art scene, all wrought with technical virtuosity. These artists are fronting what has been described as one of the leading art movements of the century, pioneering with a raw boldness that makes no apologies. They have redefined the word cool and brought a much-needed edginess to the art world. It is unsurprising that works of this genre are among the most collectible of the moment, commanding significant prices even in the current economic climate.Street art is a curious phenomenon at the moment and is a

movement that is evolving rapidly, causing consternation even within its ranks. Ironically perhaps, this is based on the success of the movement itself. Street art has become commercial; artists are now making money from their talent and rightly so and many now work to commissions or gain permission to use the backdrops they do, so it is not always an illegal venture. They are profiting, some very much so, even to the extent of spin-off merchandise and prints. Yet there are artists who perceive this


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right: A piEcE By BlEk lE rAt


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as a massive sell-out; destroying the soul of a movement born from subversive roots. Street art has evolved in other ways too; first from graffiti and now a new and closely related genre is emerging, that of urban art. There is much crossover between street and urban art, but in broadly general terms, urban artists work in a studio and take the creativity of street art as their inspiration, sometimes working with media gathered from the street or reflective of street culture; they are, like street artists, impactful in their delivery, seen for example in the work of Joe Black and his evocative piece Made in China composed of 5,550 plastic toy soldiers. The tradition of graffiti, or more simply,

making ones mark in public, is one that stretches back historically for centuries. The cave paintings and petroglyphs of prehistoric man dating to approximately 40,000 years before the present were in a manner of speaking graffiti, albeit without the edginess. The ancient Egyptians were at it; so too were the Vikings. Mostly though, given the secretive nature of this art form, there is little historic reference to its earliest artists. Some cite the Austrian Joseph Kyselak (1799-1831) as the first graffiti artist he wrote his name throughout the Austrian-Hungarian Empire in the 19th Century on public buildings, though his impetus was born from a bet with his friend. During the Great Depression that took hold of the US in the 1920s and 30s, a whole generation of people took to riding the railroads or the boxcars, as they were known and where they settled in their makeshift communities, they left their mark. These painted signs were a form of symbol-based communication amongst the travelling homeless community. Trains have long been a canvas for graffiti and street artists, with Los Angeles-based artist RISK being one of the first to paint freight trains in the 1980s as well as freeway overpasses. Now he also shows in galleries, works on canvas, designs clothing and has worked on a number of music videos and film sets as well as supporting graffiti artists.Today, there is still tremendous importance attached to the

individual signature of graffiti and street artists, still used as a form of communication, denoting presence or territory, or more blatantly expressive of ideals, views and even humour. Originality is at the core of any true artists work and for graffiti and street artists, their own unique identity is fundamental. This is typified in the work of Invader, whose art can be seen in Wardour Street as well as all across London (and much of the world); the magnificent ROA, who paints almighty animals in black and white usually with permission given their size and complexity, as in Hedgehog on Chance Street, Shoreditch and El Mac and his portraits that cover whole walls and are so real they appear to breathe (most recently in Hewett Street, 2011).

They have redefined the word cool and brought a much needed edginess to the art world

below: made in china by joe black

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Banksy, one of the biggest names in the graffiti art industry, can be seen around London, including Bruton Lane and the iconic Blek Le Rat, whose most recent image is in New Burlington Street. As well as his artwork, Banksy has also built up a mystery persona which has helped bolster his edgy anti publicity stance, which is well documented in Seven Years With Banksy by Robert Clarke (Michael OMara Books) who knew the infamous artist before his work started selling for six-figure sums.As art forms, graffiti and street art have long been

aligned as an expression of an angry culture and have often visually voiced political dissent, seen particularly in the stencilled images of Mussolini that appeared all over Italy in an underground show of propaganda during WWII these same images would decades later influence the man now considered the Godfather of modern street art, Blek Le Rat. Despite a long history, the street art movement truly took hold in New York from the late 1970s before spreading through Europe and remains entirely international with todays street artists travelling between international cities leaving their mark. This is an art movement that was born largely in anger and frustration many decades ago, but has undergone a fundamental change in recent times. Street art was created by the artist for the people; undercover, anonymous, often illegally and without monetary impetus many street artists still operate this way. But, for others street art and urban art have become a profession, with artists such as Mr Brainwash, Joe Black and Rich Simmons to name just a few. There is less angst on display and more irony; humour runs deep through many current artists work, a tongue in cheek humour that pokes fun at everyone, including the art itself. Which is not to say that the message is necessarily lost. A particularly subtle artist is Stik Person, whose characteristic stick people, despite a sparing use of line, conjure enormous empathy and in particular address homelessness, a situation in which the artist lived himself for some time.Whilst Mayfair might seem an unlikely home

for street art and urban art, there are some notable pieces dotted about, but more pertinently, at the heart of Mayfair is a great supporter of this ber fashionable movement in the form of the Opera Gallery under the keen eye of expert Jean-David Malat. Next month the gallery will be hosting an exciting new exhibition that brings together a number of street and urban artists, some well-known and some recently discovered talents. Due to the nature of street art images mentioned in the article may have been removed by the time of publishing

top: A piEcE By El MAc; right: Line man By BAnkSy in pollArd StrEEt SAM cornwEll / ShUttErStock.coM

tThe street art movement truly took hold in New York in the late 1970s

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With almost four decades in fashion, working with everyone from Ossie Clark to David Bailey, Manolo Blahnik is a living legend. As he launches his new dedicated space in Londons Harrods and a shop-in-shop at Paris Printemps de la mode, we meet the worlds most celebrated shoe designer

WORD S : E L L E B L A K EMAN

There are a handful of people in this world who have no need for last names. Madonna, Bono, Prince (before he was The artist formerly

known as Prince); Manolo is in this category. He is also one of the very few brand names that have become a synonym for the product Hoover, Kleenex, Band-Aid, Post-it, Manolo, says Alice Rawsthorn, the International Herald Tribunes design critic. Hes also adorable, she added.His creations, like the man himself, are

legendary; both are instantly recognisable, with the power to transform the mundane to the fabulous in the time it takes to tie a jewel-coloured strap.Bold, elegant and always seductive, Manolos

are the exclamation point to a womans outfit; indeed they were mentioned so often in the Sex and the City series that he is or they are considered to be the shows fifth star (tied with New York City itself). As fellow first-name-only legend Madonna once said, Manolo Blahniks shoes are as good as sex and they last longer. And if anyone should know... So what is it about his footwear that is so damn sexy?Shoes are paramount to the way you

LEft: tHE OSSiE HEEL SKEtCH By MANOLO BLAHNiK, WHiCH iS

BEiNg RE-RELEASEDExCLuSivELy

fOR PRiNtEMPS HAuSSMANN iN PARiS. RigHt: HEEL SKEtCH By

MANOLO BLAHNiK

Head

heelsover

34

and show her his drawings for theatre sets. I was beyond terrified. I was almost fainting. I

was young, like 17 or something and mentally even younger because thats how we were back then. For two days, I couldnt sleep, he says. What Vreeland told him has gone down in

fashion history, destined to be quoted and misquoted for as long as magazines exist. How amusing, she exclamed. You can do accessories very well. Why dont you do that? Young man, concentrate and do shoes!. She advised me very well, he says, with

impressive understatement. And so he returned to London and in 1972 Ossie Clark asked him to design the shoes for his next collection. They were extraordinary, but perilous. I forgot to put in heels that would support the shoe, when it got hot the heels started to wobble it was like walking on quicksand, he says. It lead British Vogue to declare If youre buying (his) shoes, employ a sense of humour, and put Blahnik firmly on the style map. By then, Blahnik had a list of editors and

young starlets of the moment beating down his door. Grace Coddington, Marisa Berenson, Jane Birkin, Charlotte Rampling, Lauren Bacall all popped into Zapata, the Old Church Street boutique based in Chelsea. In 1973 he brought the boutique and started

his own shop and by 1974 he became the first man to appear on the cover of British Vogue photographed by David Bailey, locked in a passionate embrace with Anjelica Huston.Although he wasnt planning to go into

shoe design, he was inspired from an early age by his very elegant mother. I always used to read her magazines like

Harpers Bazaar and Vogue which were shipped to us from Argentina to the Canary Islands and always arrived many months later. She was always immaculately dressed and

passed on the importance of dressing well to me and my sister. At the time there was a real lack

look, says Blahnik. They add something special and often fun.One of the best compliments I ever heard

was from one of my customers, who said that when she is bored at a party all she needs to do is look down at her shoes and she is entertained, he says. Despite being top of every fashion editors

must-wear list, Blahnik received no formal training, and was originally planning to go into set design. Born in the Canary Islands, to a Czech father and a Spanish mother and raised on a banana plantation, he studied literature at the University of Geneva, leaving with a degree and plan to study art in Paris. He studied in the French capital for two years,

but the city of lights failed to capture his attention like other places would and Blahnik left to come to London, which he tells me is his favourite place in the world.

London is a very creative place, he says. When I came to London in the Seventies, I met such wonderful creative people who I am still friends with today. They really influenced

me and my life.After moving to London, he became friends with Paloma Picasso and

[photographer] Eric Boman, who encouraged the young Blahnik

to go to New York and meet the legendary fashion editor Diana Vreeland

Shoes are paramount to the way you look. They add something special and often fun Manolo Blahnik

RigHt: HANgiSi HEEL, 640, MANOLO BLAHNiK. OPPOSitE: MANOLO BLAHNiK

(PHOtOgRAPHy COuRtESy Of

BAtH iN fASHiON)


3535


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Feature | The mayfair magazine

of beautiful shoes and my mother bought materials and fabrics and customised her own shoes and even learned from the local cobbler how to make them. I think this must have affected me when I was a child and later demonstrated itself in my life, but I never consciously thought about it, he says.Finding inspiration in absolutely everything

my senses experience, Blahniks whimsical sketches are full of intrigue and fun. What I see, what I smell and what I feel;

books I read, art I see, people I pass by on a street and everything around me inspires me. Having spent such a lot of time with famous artists makes me wonder if Blahnik considers his own work as wearable art as the rest of the fashion world does?At most I consider my shoes applied art,

he says modestly downplaying pieces that are undoubtably more coveted than many of the worlds most famous artworks. Shoes are to be worn and they are meant to have

a life, a life of the person who wears them. I do love art though and often think of Matisse or Zurbaran, he says.Another art that may

influence the designer is that of vintage movies, a passion of his that can be traced back to his first years in London when he reportedly spent most of his afternoons in Leicester Square devouring film after film on the big screen. Absolutely, there is no doubt about it I am

hugely inspired by films. I especially love Visconti and Vittorio de Sica. Every night I watch at least one film from my collection.Indeed his passion was so great that it lead him to

pen a column for Harpers Bazaar UK on the subject, inspiring readers with a desire to see classic pictures such as The Red Shoes and The Big Sleep because of his infectious enthusiasm for them.This love of old movies is fitting for a man who

believes that the Fifties was the most stylish era of all time. I really loved the Fifties when I was a child. Everything was so beautiful and properly made; wonderful fabrics and dresses made by hand there is nothing that can replace this sort of artisanry, he says.Looking at his flawless, sapphire Hangisi heel, I

think its the first time Ive ever disagreed with Manolo.

Shoes are to be worn and they are meant to have a life, a life of the person who wears them Manolo Blahnik

iMAgES: HEEL SKEtCHES, ALL By MANOLO BLAHNiK

to celebrate Manolo Blahniks upcoming shop-in-shop at Printemps de la mode in france, the store is hosting a unique exhibition, Manolo Blahnik, 40 years of glamour, until 20 October. Blahnik is also re-releasing one of its most iconic models: the Ossie exclusively for Printemps Haussmann, signed Manolo Blahnik for Printemps. (departmentstoreparis.printemps.com)

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From Elliott Erwitts iconic photography to a new book chartering the career and influence of Salvador Dal, we bring you the latest art books for your coffee-table collection

worD S : k at E r a covo l i S

#1 Salvador Dal, The Making of an ArtistFew would argue the influence of Salvador Dal on 20th century art. This new book traces the manifold factors that made Dal the artist he was, drawing on the literature, photography, film and sculpture that influenced him, as well as the master pieces he created throughout his career. His most recognisable paintings, such as The Persistence of Memory and icons of the surrealist movement including the Mae West Lips Sofa and the Lobster Telephone all have their rightful place in the anthology. The book also nods to his influence on contemporary artists from Andy Warhol to Jeff Koons; a testament to the enduring longevity and relevance of his work. 50, Published by Flammarion (01903 828503)

PaPer chase

lEFt: SalvaDor Dal, EStatE oF GEorGE Platt lynES; BElow: richarD

EStES, allan StonE GallEry, nEw york

Far riGht: #4: Gustav klimt, taSchEn / Socit

comPaGniE immoBilirE SaS Et conSortS StoclEt

#5: Elliott Erwitt XXl, Photo: 2012 Elliott

Erwitt/maGnum PhotoS


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#2 The Art Book Phaidons iconic title, The Art Book, is the art-equivalent of the dictionary, documenting all the works of art that you should know. You dont need to be an art fanatic or even particularly well-read on your art literature; all thats required is an appreciation for creativity in order to enjoy this collection of the most iconic works of art both of today and eras bygone. Updated to include an extra 100 works, The Art Book is brought well and truly into the present with paintings, photographs, sculptures, video, installations and performance art. New Edition, 39.95, Phaidon 2012 (www.phaidon.com)

#3 Architecture Now! Eat Shop DrinkThe latest compilation of the best in design, Architecture Now! Eat Shop Drink draws together the work of the heavyweights of architecture today, including David Chipperfield, Peter Marino, Jean Nouvel and Bjarke Ingels, all in one. The biggest names in the game are also

recognised alongside the new and emerging talents of today including Gary Card, designer of Londons concept store, the Late Night Chameleon Caf and David Lynch who designed the chic and deviant Parisian nightclub, Silencio. The book gives an inside look at how architects embark on their creative process, focusing on design hotspots of the past as well as those tipped for future success; from Kobe to Turku through to So Paulo. 24.99 (www.taschen.com)

#4 Gustav Klimt: The Complete Paintings Gustav Klimt is perhaps best known for his use of gold leaf in intricate paintings. His lifes work is still celebrated today for the beauty, sense of sorrow and passion that he was able to capture in a single portrait. It has been 150 years since Klimts birth and the launch of his complete works reveals his ideas and creative genius in one impressive volume. His contemporaries comment in a series of essays on his portrayal of women and adopting landscapes into his paintings, which became more prevalent towards the second half of his life. And although he is thought of as a man of few words, there are actually more than 200 letters, cards and pieces of his writing are included in this collectable monograph. 135 (www.taschen.com)

#5 Elliott Erwitt XXL Elliott Erwitts photographs are some of the most widely recognised in the world. He captured Marilyn Monroes white dress at just the right moment, immortalising the iconic image in popular culture. The photography master also belonged to Magnum, the artists group founded by some of the most iconic forerunners to his career, Henri Cartier-Bresson and Robert Capa among other legendary names. This limited-edition book collects many of his most memorable pieces, with each representing a different slice of modern life; how we live today as a treasure to pass on to the future generations. Limited edition, 1,500 (www.teneues.com)

PaPer chase21

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C&J Rex.indd 1 14/9/11 16:49:53

The mayfair magazine | Regulars

41

Celebrate British flair this month with fashion photography at Somerset House, a vast new accessories hall at Selfridges and the return of 007

WORD S : K AT E R A COVO L I S

Couture culture


Tim Walkers Storyteller exhibition at Somerset House this month is probably the only place you will see Lanvins Alber Elbaz wearing a pair of rabbit ears all in the name of art, of course. Walkers inspirational collection of images, collages and snapshots from his personal archives at the exhibit have also been turned into a book, published to coincide with the exhibition, which will make a beautifully quirky addition to your coffee-table collection (45, Thames & Hudson). For your October retail therapy fix, Selfridges unveils its new look accessories department featuring a stunning edit of handbags. And since style is on our agenda, the two fashion icons who authored Parisian Chic: A Style Guide by Ines de La Fressange and Sophie Gachet, have joined forces again, writing a planner for 2013 with style tips for each week, accompanied by the playful fashion illustrations by Ines de la Fressange (12.95, Flammarion). Continue to feed your creative curiosity at Digital Crystal: Swarovski at the Design Museum, the rather glamorous exhibition which explores the future of memory in our fast-developing digital age, using Swarovski crystal as its medium. And after a year of celebrating everything British, we can finally mix our vodka martinis (with a twist of orange at the ready) and watch as Daniel Craig brings James Bond back to the silver screen in Skyfall. In a tribute to the original 007, pre-Hollywood, pick up a copy of the beautiful cloth-bound Ian Fleming: The Bibliography, a comprehensive guide to Flemings works by John Gilbert (175, Queen Anne Press). If youre inspired by another parade of Bond girls, as glamorous and elegant as their predecessors, the new long-lasting red lip colour from Sensai by Kanebo (40, Sensai by Kanebo, available at Harrods) is a must-have. Rich in pigment and full of seductive allure, it was used on the femme fatale stars of SkyFall a decadent tribute to 007.

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SELFRIDgES); Ian FleMIng: The bIblIOgraPhY, quEEn AnnE PRESS; PARISIAn CHIC WEEKLy PLAnnER 2013, 12.95, FLAMMARIOn; FILM STILL FROM SkYFall; LEFT:

karlIe klOSS In gOld FeaTherS ShOredITch, lOndOn, 2010 TIM WALKER

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My life in

Andrew Renton is very excited. The director of Albemarle Streets Marlborough Fine Art Gallery has every reason to be, as this month, he will oversee the launch of a brand new space and a whole new program and direction for

the 65-year-old Mayfair gallery. On 11 October, during Frieze week, Renton will open the doors to Marlborough Contemporary, a sister gallery to his Fine Art location, where Mayfair collectors will be able to peruse more cutting-edge artists that have, to date, been slightly off Marlboroughs radar.Its going to be dramatically different from the original gallery,

says Renton. We are going to work with very different types of artists, drawing them from different parts of the world, which makes the space more conceptually driven, with different kinds of identities.As the Fine Art gallery is known for its modern masters, the new

space will side-step into something altogether different. Its fascinating, particularly because were talking about Mayfair, which has always been the home of modern art in Britain. The market exposure to contemporary art has opened up and galleries are responding to that. Mayfair is now the one-stop shop for contemporary art. Theres an atmosphere here thats incredibly

exciting, he says, explaining why the gallery was built in Albemarle Street, despite the great expense in doing so: We considered going somewhere else for all of a minute before dismissing it! Theres a conversation thats going on between the collectors

and the galleries here. You just bump in to people all the time, for me it feels almost like a village a very sophisticated one.Rentons ties to the streets of Mayfair go back to childhood, when

his father lived on Park Lane. Its funny because I now end up using the same places as my father did. I see what he did and do the same. The only place my brother and I were allowed to walk was to

Richoux; I still have an affectionate feeling towards it now. Mayfair can also be credited with gifting Renton his love of art, or at least encouraging it. I remember one day seeing two guys carrying a Francis Bacon painting. I loved that I knew how big Bacon was and Ive never in my whole life seen a major painting being carried around before. It was an incredibly formative moment.And how has Mayfair changed over his years here? Mayfair is about

both the new and old. Theres been a transformation of Mount Street and South Audley street, which has been really thrilling to see, because its been done really well. But its also been controlled by the building blocks that are immovable you dont mess with the Connaught so the important things last. I used to have breakfast there with my dad once a week and it was very special. For me, porridge at the Connaught thats the definition of Mayfair living.

Andrew rentondirector of Marlborough fine art gallery

MAYFAIR

froM toP: andreW renton Portrait by charlie caMPbell; the hole at cullinan diaMond Mine, gauteng, South africa Where in 1905 f. WellS unearthed What iS knoWn aS the cullinan diaMond, or the Star of africa, Photo credit: Petra diaMondS ltd; the connaught; broWnS hotel

Mayfair, has always been the home of modern art in this country Andrew Renton

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The mayfair magazine | Art

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A PAD bursting with global art and designFor generations, Berkeley Square has been synonymous with quality and style. This has been accentuated over the past six years by its annual art fair, PAD London, that takes up temporary residence in October. This time, the fair boasts 18 additional, distinguished dealers who specialise in the finest modern art, design and decorative arts from around the world. Amongst them will be 20th-century art specialists Gana Art Gallery from Seoul, Castelli Gallery from New York and Galerie Gmurzynska from Zurich. PAD London runs from 10 - 14 October at Berkeley Square, London, W1 (www.pad-fairs.com)

Maybe its because Im a LondonerNick Botting has enjoyed being in London for most of his life and the pleasure he derives from it is crystal clear in his uplifting, light-filled, figurative paintings of daily life in the capital. Angst-ridden social critiques do not feature in his oeuvre; instead Botting presents us with appealing scenes of adults and children enjoying urban activities. His paintings span the simple and the sophisticated aspects of life; relaxing in parks, shopping and enjoying sport. All are well observed and deftly painted with a softness that seems to instantly absorb his viewers into each unfolding scene. London life has always provided Botting with a wealth of inspiration but this summer has presented him with a particularly rich source. The result is a massive body of work comprising 80 paintings.An English Summer by Nick Botting runs from 11 October 2 November at The Portland Gallery, 8 Bennet Street, SW1A (www.portlandgallery.com)

Q&A with Victoria Siddal, director of the newly launched Frieze Masters

Q: What exactly is Frieze Masters and which forms of art will it encompass?

A: Frieze Masters will show art throughout the ages, made before the year 2000, with medieval sculpture sitting side by side with early Warhol drawings. We want to show as broad as possible a spectrum of art history before the contemporary period. Q: In its 10 year life, Frieze has been identified with the avant-garde, so what is the rationale for introducing more traditional art?A: We know that there is an active dialogue between the past and present, and we hope that by bringing a contemporary approach to historical material we can make it a more active conversation. Although Frieze has been associated with the new, contemporary art is always informed by what has gone before. We aim to put artists at the centre of what we do, and in our conversations we have found that many artists engage with these ideas when they go into a studio. As we spoke to galleries and collectors about Frieze Masters we found that there was a real appetite for exploring the connections between past and present. Q: What will be the image of this new facet of Frieze and will it be within the main marquee?A: Frieze Masters is a separate fair from Frieze London with a unique identity but the two will run at the same time. New York based architect Annabelle Selldorf is designing an elegant, light, minimal space for Frieze Masters on Gloucester Green, Regents Park. Frieze Masters will be a short walk from the contemporary fair, allowing an easy crossover between audiences wanting the old and the new.

Mayfair is the place to be this October; Nick Botting is inspired by the capitals streets while PAD London will be coming to town

wOrD s : c A rO L cO rD r e y

Art news

tOP Le

ft: Breakfast at th

e W

olseley By Nick BOtt

iNg; Left: tWo seated figures, 1944. By

HeNry

MOOre, c

Ourte

sy O

f HAzLitt HOLLAND HiBBert; ABOve: t

He NOMiNAL tH

ree

(tO w

iLLiAM O

f OckHAM) 1963 By DAN fLA

viN

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Exhibition Focus:

Most of us have Dorothys crisp, blue and white gingham dress from the Wizard of Oz (1939) and Scarlett OHaras gorgeous green dress from Gone with the Wind (1939) etched in our memories. Holly Golightlys elegant little black dress designed by Givenchy for Breakfast at Tiffanys (1961) redefined the cocktail dress for that era and subsequent ones, while the costumes for the recent Avatar (2010) were crucial to the success of the entire film. Hollywood Costume sponsored by Harry Winston will bring all these and numerous other costumes together, filling three galleries at the V&A. However, sourcing, negotiating and securing them from public and private collections around the world has required strenuous effort and tenacity spanning five years a story in itself that is almost worthy of a film. Hollywood Costume will not just put the clothes in our sights; it

will give us a fascinating, once-in-a-lifetime insight into the creative process and collaboration between director, designer and actor that brings the script to the screen and enables the imagined to become a convincing reality. The group of costumes worn by Meryl Streep for her award-winning role as The Iron Lady was fundamental to changing our perception of her from famous American star to our own Margaret Thatcher a transformation which was as crucial to the actress as it was to the viewers, On

This spectacular exhibition, sponsored by Harry Winston, brings Hollywood to London

presenting more than 100 famous costumes from the past centurys most iconic films

Word s : C A ro L Co rd r E Y

LEfT: breakfast at tiffanys; rigHT: elizabeth: the golden age


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Property | The mayfair magazine

every film, the clothes are half the battle in creating the character, claims Streep. Her views on the subject are so strong that she admits to giving designers, a great deal of opinion about how my people are presented.Throughout the past century or so, costume

designing processes have changed from artists committing hours, days and often weeks to sitting in libraries and producing hand-sketched designs, to the current use of new technology, which provides inspiration from global archives at the click of a mouse. It also provides equally speedy facilities for submitting designs to film-makers anywhere in the world. The story of costume design from the Charlie

Chaplin silent-picture era through to the present day will be told in suitably dramatic fashion with Act One: Deconstruction, explaining the role of costume designers in cinema and how they link clothing with characters once the scripts arrive on their desks. For anybody interested in working in this field, this part of the exhibition will prove particularly fascinating as it will shine the spotlight on how realistic and fantastical costumes are researched, created, fitted, related to scripts and produced within budgets. It will illustrate all of this with an array of fabulous outfits from films such as Empire of the Sun, Addams Family Values and Indiana Jones: Raiders of the Lost Ark, concluding with Elizabeth: The Golden Age.

Act Two: Dialogue will employ archival film footage and specially commissioned interviews to focus on four landmark director/designer pairings: Alfred Hitchcock and Edith Head (The Birds); Tim Burton and Colleen Atwood (Edward Scissorhands); Martin Scorsese and Sandy Powell (Gangs of New York); and Mike Nichols and Ann Roth(Closer). The importance of historical and social context will also be discussed through the varying interpretations of Cleopatra, whilst different genres will be explored through the prime examples of Ben Hur, True Grit, Star Wars and A Room with a View. This section will end with case studies and interviews with Robert de Niro and Meryl Streep on the importance of costume in developing their most famous characters. The closing section of this superb exhibition

will be Act Three: Finale, in which Hollywood heroes and femme fatales are brought into sharp focus. Amongst the iconic costumes and designs will be Errol Flynns doublet from The Adventures of Don Juan, Marilyn Monroes white cocktail dress from Some Like it Hot, the high-tech Batman suit from The Dark Knight Rises, Gryffindors school house uniform from Harry Potter and Keira Knightlys sensuous silk gown from Atonement. These pieces and more will reveal how

costumes dont just create characters, but make iconic pieces of cinematic history, while Londoners will be treated to a sprinkling of true Hollywood stardust. Hollywood Costume sponsored by Harry Winston runs from 20 October at the V&A musuem (www.vam.ac.uk)

Hollywood heroes and femme fatales are brought into sharp focus

above from left: The Bride Wore red

1937. mGm, tHe Kobal ColleCtIoN, GeorGe

HUrrell; Some Like iT hoT, 1959. UNIted artIStS. tHe Kobal ColleCtIoN; angeL

Art| The mayfair magazine

arrive and revive

The Alm we hiked to today was an insider tip from our host. The view from here of sun-kissed mountain peaks reaching for the sky is simply spellbinding. We feel totally free, nearly giddy with joy. We might even spend the night up here. Just like the dairy maid. For information about holidays in Austria, visit www.austria.info/treasures or call 0845 101 1818

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BONHaMS | PRIZE LOTIrma Sterns Mangbetu woman carrying fruit

PaRTIcuLaRs:ExpEctEd ValuE (itEm):300,000 - 500,000

ExpEctEd ValuE (auction):5,000,000

EstimatEd RangE:3,000 5,000 to 350,000 550,000

no. of lots:130

placE:Bonhams, New Bond Street

datE:17 October 2012

South African painter, Irma Sterns 1942 visit to the Congo, (the first of three visits to the country), proved to be immensely satisfying in the rich array

of sensory experience it provided for her. Mangbetu woman carrying fruit exemplifies the bright colours as well as the more sensuous figures that characterised her work from the period. A sketch in Sterns Congo diary, published

in 1943, provides an evocative promissory note for the current lot: fluid lines denote the curvature of neck, cheeks and a single arm which reaches up to steady the arrangement of bananas balanced effortlessly on the sitters head (belying the verbal description of the bananas being carried in such enormous clusters that they had to be secured with a band around the forehead). This fluidity and languor of movement is translated into oils in Mangbetu woman carrying fruit, an image that captures Sterns romantic vision of a society in harmony with nature. Most notably, the downcast eyes of the sitter in the sketch now rise, in the painting, to meet the viewer.Mangbetu woman carrying fruit reflects

Stern at the height of her powers, demonstrating her mastery of vivid colour and lively brushwork. Stern has boldly contrasted the green and blue hues of the bananas with red flowers and yellow costume, all set against a pale background which lushly complements the dark skin of the sitter. The sitter in the present work bears similarities to Mangbetu girl and Mangbetu Chiefs daughter, painted by Stern in the same year. The exquisite painting is signed and

dated Irma Stern / 1942 at the upper right of the oil on canvas piece, measuring 69 by 69cm.

Image: COurteSy Of BONhamS

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Art | The mayfair magazine

PaRTIcuLaRs:ExpEctEd ValuE (itEm):100,000-150,000

ExpEctEd ValuE (auction):tBC

EstimatEd RangE:800-150,000

no. of lots:10

placE:Christies, South Kensington Old Brompton road

datE:5 October, 8.30pm (by invitation only)

CHrIStIeS | PRIZE LOTThe 2008 Aston Martin from Quantum of Solace

Fans of James Bond should get in to gear. Not only will we get the next thrilling dose of

Bond action in cinemas this month, but well also get a taste of some of the high-tech seductive gadgets synonymous with the spys seductive style. To celebrate the 50th anniversary of James Bond on film, Christies announce 50 Years of James Bond, where there will be an opportunity to acquire a piece of Bond memorabilia directly from the archives of EON Productions, as well as donations from the Bond cast members. The auction is led by a 2008

Aston Martin Six Litre V12 DBS two door Coupe which was used by Daniel Craig as James Bond in Quantum of Solace. The Aston Martin DBS plays a dramatic role in the opening sequence of the film

Image: ChrIStIeS ImageS Ltd

in which Bond skilfully navigates winding roads in a high speed car chase. All proceeds from the

sale of this car are to benefit childrens charity, Barnardos. Aston Martin has long been a favourite

with Bond, first appearing in Goldfinger in 1964 and over the years featuring in a total of nine Bond films. James Bond drives an Aston Martin DBS, the successor of the Vanquish, in Casino Royale and Quantum of Solace. The original DBS was first produced from 1967-1972 and featured in the film On Her Majestys Secret Service in 1969.Marking the exact date of

the 50th anniversary of the 1962 Bond film, Dr. No, the auction will take place on the evening of Friday, 5 October, with all proceeds from the 50 Years of James Bond auction to benefit UNICEF and other selected charities.

Art | The mayfair magazine

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Bang & Olufsen of Chelsea - BeoLab 12 Advert - Place at 100% (297 x 210mm + 3mm Bleed)Production questions:

Lindsay Bradshaw 07847 716311, [email protected]

bang-olufsen.com

Visit our showroom to experience the spectacular sound of BeoLab12

Bang & Olufsen of Chelsea147 Kings Road, London SW3 5TXTel: 020 7376 5222Email: [email protected]/chelsea

ENJOY YOUR VERY OWNWALL OF SOUNDThe new BeoLab 12 is a fully digital on-wall loudspeaker thatproduces sensational surround sound in a graceful, minimalistfashion. It is the perfect compliment to any flat-screen or home stereo system.

This revolutionary loudspeaker co-operates with the wall it is placed on, transmitting treble and bass sounds with outstanding precision and depth.

BeoLab 12 features a sculptural design that forms a reassuring wave pattern that beholds powerful capabilities, maximizing every inch of the slim space. Call it the worlds most high-performing opticalillusion, because when viewed from the side, this commandingloudspeaker appears even slimmer.

Our boutique is located 20 Motcomb Street London SWIX 8LB

tel. 020 7823 2176

www.annickgoutal.com

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PaRTIcuLaRs:ExpEctEd ValuE (itEm):

300,000-500,000

ExpEctEd ValuE (auction):5.5m 8.2m

EstimatEd RangE:300 - 500 to

300,000 - 500,000

no. of lots:268

placE:Sothebys

New Bond Street

datE:3 October 2012

SOtHeBYS | PRIZE LOTA Fatimid white-ground lustre pottery jar

from Egypt, 10th/11th century

This superb jar, as part of the Art of the Islamic World auction, belongs to a small group of surviving Fatimid lustre jars, of which the few that

exist are presently published in the Al-Sabah Collection, Kuwait, the Benaki Museum, Athens, the Aga Khan Collection, Toronto, and the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, inter alia. The majority of the extant Fatimid lustre pottery is fragmentary, and intact pieces such as this are exceptionally rare. The jar takes an ovoidal shape on a flat

base, with a raised band at the shoulder. The short inward-sloping neck with everted rim sits on the body of the jar, which is painted in a golden lustre over an opaque white glaze. With a band of foliated Kufic script around the neck, and in vertical bands on the body alternating with foliate decoration, the jars design is beautifully preserved. The interior is also glazed. This lustre jar, along with the previously

published works around the world, needs to be seen in the context of the earlier phase of lustre production under the Abbasids and the new phase which flowed from the expansion and enrichment of the Fatimid dynasty. Presented as regional challengers to the Abbasid empire, the Fatimids conquest of Egypt and subsequent creation of Cairo, or al-Qahira, the triumphant, as their new capital in 973 AD, brought this new imperial power into direct competition with the Abbasid court at Baghdad. The period of prosperity which followed saw the rise of Cairo as a centre for trade, attracting craftsmen from around the region, and, notably, lustre potters from Iraq. A lustre jar now in the David Collection, Copenhagen (inv.no.28/1971) dated to Iraq in the tenth century, displays a number of similarities with Fatimid lustreware from Egypt which further reveals the connection and competition between both courts. Image: SOtheByS

No fewer than four exceptional mechanisms enhance the precision of the RICHARD LANGE TOURBILLON Pour le Mrite: the tiny fuse-and-chain transmission, the delicate tourbillon, the ultra-thin Lange balance spring, and not least the patented stop-seconds device for the tourbillon which makes it possible to

set the watch with one-second accuracy in the first place. Never before has an A. Lange & Shne watch been endowed with so many complications that simultaneously enhance its rate accuracy, settability, and readability. And so, this remarkable timepiece truly deserves the honorary attribute Pour le Mrite.

We prefer not to be measured by dimensions.Unless its a new dimension of accuracy.

Arije 165, Sloane Street London George Pragnell 5 and 6, Wood Street, Stratford-upon-AvonHamilton & Inches 87, George Street, Edinburgh Harrods 87135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London

Watches of Switzerland 16, New Bond Street, London Wempe 43-44, New Bond Street, London

Lange Uhren GmbH Tel. +34 91 454 89 82 www.lange-soehne.com

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The mayfair magazine | Collection

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Image: P

hOtO

By BrIjeSh

Pate

L th

e KaLO

ry ageNCy

Its ComplICatedIt has been providing its clients with the most affordable, expensive watches in the world since 2005 but nothing Christopher Ward has produced before offers quite as much value for money as its new C900 Single Pusher Chronograph. an extremely rare example of a luxury watch being put together by just one man (in this case, either legendary watch maker johannes jahnke or his assistant frank Stelzer), each C900 Single Pusher costs 2,450, despite being one of only 250 made. the automatic chronograph can be started, stopped and reset with a single pusher, or button. (www.christopherward.co.uk)

Watch news

Like all Patek timepieces, the 5396/1R-001 has a timeless appeal and elegance that will never fade. The watch features a mechanical automatic movement, brown sunburst dial and annual calendar complication with day, date and month indications

5396/1R-001, 51,680 (RRP), Patek Philippe Available at Harrods and Selfridges

each month we select our timepiece of the moment from the watch worlds latest releases

ONE TO WATCH

SalonQP ReturnsFollowing record numbers of visitors and exhibitors at last years event, SalonQP will be returning to the Saatchi Gallery between 8 and 10 November of 2012. Now in its fourth year, the UKs only fine watch exhibition will present an impressive array of horological delights, including presentations, debates and static exhibitions from the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. With a list of exhibitors stretching from Arnold & Son to Zenith via the likes of Chopard, Jaeger-LeCoultre, TAG Heuer and Vacheron Constantin, among many others the event will showcase the watch industrys finest craftsmanship. SalonQP opens with a VIP reception on Thursday 8 November, with the exhibition open to ticket holders on 9 and 10 November, including a cocktail reception on the Friday evening. For tickets, visit www.salonqp.com.

for treasured timepieces, horological heirlooms and modern masterpieces, watch this space...

WOrd S : r I C h a rd B rOWN

preCIsIon style after the news that Burberry will be making a move into the world of fine watches next month a story the company insists we cant print with pictures until then ermenegildo Zegna has announced it is

doing the same thing. taking the high

Performance concept it pioneered with fabrics as inspiration, the brand has unveiled two high Performance Chronographs (4,000) and a high Performance Sea diver (2,200). the former is black ceramic with ergonomic rubber-coated push pieces and the steel-cased Sea diver, with an operating depth of 300m, features a blackened aluminium insert. (www.zegna.com)

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From the officeto theopen sea

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From the office

Theyre the archetypal City boy watches. Bold-faced and portly-proportioned, Panerais Luminor and Radiomir timepieces have ridden the oversized

wristwatch wave to become the number one choice for any banker looking to make a statement. Its one reason, among others, that Panerais products provoke the Marmite effect. You hate it or you love it, admits CEO Angelo Bonati. There is nothing in between. My opinion doesnt really make any difference.We are talking at the Cowes leg of the Panerai

Classic Yachts Challenge an annual series of ten races that commence in Antigua and conclude in the waters of Cannes. Despite the difference in opinion that Panerai elicits, Mr Bonati is adamant the company wont be changing its design direction any time soon.

Panerai is a very particular brand with very particular clients. We have a different soul to others, different passions and a very different history.

That they do. Founded in Florence in 1860, Officine Panerais rise to the top of the timepiece industry owes much to the Italian Navy. Having been supplied with precision instruments by the company from before the 20th century, in 1936 the Command of the First Submarine Group turned to Panerai for a watch that would be able to withstand the extreme conditions to which the sea would subject it. The result was the Radiomir, a watch featuring a cushion-shaped case, 47mm diameter and a hand-wound mechanical movement supplied by Rolex. 13 years later after a World War in which Panerai provided the frogmen of the Decima Flottiglia MAS with timing instruments came the Luminor. Like the Radiomir, the Luminor took its name from the luminescent material Panerai developed to make its watches legible in the dark and underwater.For the next four decades the brand

continued making watches exclusively for the


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In less than two decades, Panerai has gone from purveyor of military wristwatches to producer of some of the industrys most popular

timepieces. Richard Brown sets sail with the brands CEO Angelo

Bonati at the annual Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge

You hate it or you love it. There is nothing in between Angelo Bonati, CEO, Panerai

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Italian Navy; not until 1993 did Panerai produce a series of models aimed at the civilian market. Despite the change in clientele, little about the companys creations changed. The characteristic large dial remained, as did the iconic crown-protecting lever-clamp device.The history and character of our watches has

stayed very strong, says Bonati. We are an Italian brand born out of Florence, the city of art, culture and beauty. Our authenticity is one of the things that keep our clients satisfied.With its longstanding links to the sea, it is

perhaps no surprise that the company is keen to keep its image associated with sailing, and with classic yachts in particular. For the last eight years the Classic Yachts Challenge has run under Panerais sponsorship, an event the brand has used to champion the sport, and its own heritage-led persona, across the globe. The region of the brand is the waters, the sea, confirms Bonati. Panerai needs to be always linked to its origin otherwise it runs the risk of losing its path, or losing its clients because they dont understand you anymore. We consider the classic yacht, not the modern ones, very linked to our place within the watch industry. More than simply paying to have the event

prefixed by its own name, Panerais commitment to the Classic Yachts Challenge extends to them fielding their own Bermudan ketch in this years series. Discovered languishing in an advanced state of disrepair in Antigua, Eilean was purchased and brought to Italy in 2006. Following exhaustive restoration, the boat made her UK regatta debut in Cowes this year, one of more than 70 vintage boats that made their way to the turbulent tides of the

Solent. When we found the boat it was sinking, explains Bonati. But as soon as I saw it, I fell in love. We spent four years of our time restoring her and now she is an ambassador for the brand and its future. There is something very special about Eilean: the first Panerai wristwatch was made in 1936; Eileen was made in 1936.Despite being one of the worst summers on

record, 2012s Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge attracted enough boats to make it the largest and most historically significant collection of vintage vessels to gather in UK waters for more than a decade. Off the back of such events awareness of the Panerai brand is growing year by year, their products appearing in increasing frequency in bars and boardrooms across the country. Bonati has already discussed the flourishing success of his brand within the UK, but what about elsewhere? The watch industry is growing around the

world. The biggest markets for us depend on if you are talking about regions or countries. If you consider regions, then Europe; if you consider countries, then sales in Italy and Hong Kong are more or less the same. China is of course a big potential market. But for now we are selling more to the Chinese in Europe than to the Chinese in China.Back in Britain, theres no denying that

City-types make up an important contingent of Panerais fan-base. How, then, did Panerai suffer when the recession started pinching at the pockets of those in the Square Mile? According to Bonati, it didnt. The recession was easy. I think if you have a good business model, a good product and good communication, you can fly over a recession.

If you have a good business model, a good product and good communication, you can fly over a recession

aBOVe, frOm Left: Pam00438

LumINOr 1950 3 dayS gmt autOmatIC

CeramICa 44mm; Pam00424 radIOmIr CaLIfOrNIa 3 dayS

47mm; Pam00388 radIOmIr BLaCK

SeaL 3 dayS autOmatIC 45mm


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Maybe you grow less fast than before, maybe you have to work a little harder, but you can continue. Thats what happened for Panerai. Over last few years, we have grown very well.Indeed, within Panerais 150-year history the

period between 2006 and 2010 represents one of the brands most successful spells. In 2007 Panerai announced the launch of three calibres completely designed, engineered and produced in-house while 2008 saw the opening of numerous boutiques across Asia, Europe and the United States. Recession? What recession? And of the future? Bonati is excited. We are

having a revolution. But one that will see us keep the same soul, the same design and the same positive element that brings Panerai to life. Sometimes I mention Mercedes. If you compare the latest Mercedes with one made ten years ago you see a huge difference but you continue to feel the same car.Thats what has to happen with Panerai; a continual evolution where the history of the brand is never forgotten.Its a formula thats served the

company well over the last decade and one that will no doubt see it sails smoothly into the future. www.panerai.com

If you have a good business model, a good product and good communication, you can fly over a recession

Panerai needs to be always linked to its origin otherwise it runs the risk of losing its path Angelo Bonati, CEO, Panerai

rIght: Pam00422 LumINOr marINa 1950 3 dayS 47mm; aLL ImageS frOm PaNeraIS BrItISh CLaSSIC WeeK PaNeraI By guIdO CaNtINI

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Collection | The mayfair magazine

#1 Silk polka-dot square, 50, Drakes London #2 Round optical cufflinks, 59, Thomas Pink #3 Silver-plated bulldog handle umbrella, 185, Archer Adams #4 Pocket square and bow-tie set, 115, Drakes London, #5 Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M SKYFALL Limited Edition watch,

4,420, Omega #6 18-carat white gold circular cufflinks with onyx inlay, 2,050, William and Son #7 Ligne 2 Lighter Windsor, 665, S.T. Dupont (available at www.harrods.com) #8 1/18 DB5 scale model, 125, Aston Martin #9 Silverstone Tourbillion Full Black watch,

from a selection, Graham (available at www.harrods.com) #10 Cross-grain leather briefcase, 1,050, Smythson

Aiming to achieve the debonair gentleman look? Take inspiration from

James Bonds accessory drawer

Documents

The Mayfair Magazine October 2012