The Master Ice Cream Recipe - NYTimes

7/3/2014 The Master Ice Cream Recipe - NYTimes.com

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DINING & WINE | THE ICE CREAM ISSUE | NYT

NOW

The Master Ice Cream

RecipeMelissa Clark created this rich, silky ice cream

base to accommodate nearly any flavor youcan imagine. Consider the ideas below, and

directions for incorporating them into the baserecipe, a jumping-off point for your owninnovations. WATCH THE VIDEO » JULY 1, 2014

ICE CREAM BASE

Time: 20 minutes plus several hours’

cooling, chilling and freezing

cups heavy cream2

cup whole milk1

cup sugar⅔

teaspoon fine sea salt⅛

large egg yolks6

Your choice of flavoring

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1. In a small pot, simmer cream, milk,

sugar and salt until sugar completely

dissolves, about 5 minutes. Remove

pot from heat. In a separate bowl,

whisk yolks. Whisking constantly,

slowly whisk about a third of the hot

cream into the yolks, then whisk the

yolk mixture back into the pot with

the cream. Return pot to medium-low

heat and gently cook until mixture is

thick enough to coat the back of a

spoon (about 170 degrees on an

instant-read thermometer).

2. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve

into a bowl. Cool mixture to room

temperature. Cover and chill at least 4

hours or overnight.

3. Churn in an ice cream machine

according to manufacturer’s

instructions. Serve directly from the

machine for soft serve, or store in

freezer until needed.

Yield: About 1 1/2 pints

Video: How to Make the Recipe

(see grid below, or invent

your own)

AROMATICS

VANILLA,

COFFEE OR

GREEN TEA

If making vanilla

ice cream, slice 2

MINT OR BASIL

In a food

processor, pulse

together 1 cup

clean and dry mint

CINNAMON

Break a 4-inch-

long cinnamon

stick (preferably a

fragrant variety

LEMON OR

LIME

In a food

processor, pulse

together zest of 3

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vanilla beans in

half lengthwise

and scrape down

the sides. Add

seeds and pods; or

1/2 cup whole

coffee beans

ground coarsely in

a coffee grinder or

food processor; or

1/4 cup green tea

leaves to the cold

milk and cream

mixture. Let

custard steep off

the heat for 30

minutes before

straining. Chill.

or basil leaves

with 2/3 cup

granulated sugar

until pulverized

and bright green.

Use herb sugar

instead of plain

sugar to make the

base. Let custard

steep off the heat

for 30 minutes

before straining.

Chill.

like Ceylon or

canela) into a food

processor. Add

2/3 cup granulated

sugar and pulse

until finely

ground. Use

cinnamon sugar

instead of plain

sugar to make the

base. Let custard

steep off the heat

for 30 minutes

before straining.

Chill.

lemons or limes

with 2/3 cup

granulated sugar

until smooth and

brightly colored.

Use citrus sugar

instead of plain

sugar to make the

base. Let custard

steep off the heat

for 30 minutes

before straining.

Stir in the juice

and zest of 1

lemon or lime.

Chill.

FRUIT

STRAWBERRY

OR RASPBERRY

Make the base

without milk. In a

blender, purée 1

pound berries, 3

tablespoons sugar,

1/2 teaspoon

lemon juice or

balsamic vinegar

and a pinch of salt.

Taste; add more

sugar and/or

lemon or vinegar

if necessary. Purée

should be on the

sweet side, with

some underlying

PEACH OR

APRICOT

Pit and dice 3

pounds peaches or

apricots (no need

to peel them). In a

saucepan over

medium heat,

gently simmer

fruit with 1/2 cup

sugar until fruit is

tender, about 10

minutes. Purée in

a food processor

or blender. Make

the base without

milk. Stir 1/2 cup

buttermilk and the

CHERRY

In a saucepan over

medium heat,

simmer 6 cups

pitted cherries

(from 2 pounds)

with 1/3 cup sugar

until cherries are

very soft, about 10

minutes. Purée in

a food processor

or blender. Make

the base without

milk. Stir 1/2 cup

buttermilk and the

cherry purée into

warm, strained

base. Add a few

BANANA

In a blender, purée

4 very ripe

medium bananas,

2 tablespoons

sugar, 1 teaspoon

lemon juice and a

pinch of salt until

smooth. Make the

base without milk.

Stir 1/2 cup

buttermilk and the

fruit purée into

warm, strained

base. Add a few

drops of vanilla

extract if desired.

Chill.



tartness. Stir into

base before

chilling. Strain

before churning if

using raspberries.

fruit purée into

warm, strained

base. Add a few

drops of almond

extract if desired.

Chill.

drops of kirsch if

desired. Chill.

CHOCOLATES AND CARAMELS

CHOCOLATE

In a saucepan,

bring 3/4 cup

cream and 3

tablespoons

Dutch-processed

cocoa powder to a

simmer. Put 1 cup

chopped chocolate

in a mixing bowl.

Pour hot cocoa

cream over

chocolate and stir

until melted and

smooth. Make

base using 1 1/2

cups milk, 3/4 cup

sugar and no

cream. Stir

chocolate mixture,

3/4 cup crème

fraîche or sour

cream and 1

teaspoon vanilla

extract into base.

Strain and chill.

CHOCOLATE

HAZELNUT

Make the base

with 2 cups milk, 1

cup cream and 1/4

cup sugar. Whisk 1

cup chocolate

hazelnut spread

(such as Nutella)

and 1 teaspoon

vanilla extract into

warm, strained

base. Chill.

SALTED

CARAMEL

In a medium pot

over medium

heat, melt 3/4 cup

sugar with 3

tablespoons water,

swirling pan

frequently, until

sugar turns

mahogany brown

in color (almost

but not quite

black). Continue

making base in

the same pot,

using 1/2 cup

sugar. Make sure

caramel melts and

cream mixture is

completely

smooth before

adding egg yolks.

Sprinkle 1/4

teaspoon flaky sea

salt (such as

Maldon) into base

during the last 2

minutes of

churning.

BUTTERSCOTCH

BOURBON

Make the salted

caramel variation

using 1/2 cup

sugar for the

caramel and not

letting it get too

dark in color (it

should be reddish

brown rather than

dark mahogany

brown). Stir 1

tablespoon

bourbon into base

before chilling.

Omit the flaky sea

salt.



NUTS

ALMOND

In a medium

saucepan over

medium heat,

cook 1/2 cup

sliced almonds

with 2 tablespoons

sugar and a pinch

of salt until deeply

golden and

caramelized, about

10 minutes.

Transfer to a plate;

reserve. In the

same pot, toast 1

cup sliced

almonds until

deeply golden, 5

minutes. Proceed

with base recipe in

the same pot,

using 1 1/2 cups

cream and 1 1/2

cups milk. Let

custard steep off

the heat for 1 hour

before straining

(press down hard

on solids). Add

1/4 teaspoon

almond extract to

base before

chilling. Break

reserved nuts into

pieces and add to

base during last 2

minutes of

PISTACHIO

Make the base

using 2 cups milk

and 1 cup cream.

Whisk 1 cup

unsweetened

pistachio paste

and 1/4 teaspoon

almond extract

into warm,

strained base.

Chill.

PEANUT

BUTTER

Make the base

using 2 cups milk

and 1 cup cream.

Whisk 1 cup

natural smooth

peanut butter and

1/2 teaspoon

vanilla extract into

warm, strained

base. Chill.

COCONUT

In a medium

saucepan, toast 1/2

cup sweetened

shredded coconut

until deeply

golden, about 5

minutes. Transfer

to a plate; reserve.

In the same pot,

toast 1 cup

shredded

unsweetened

coconut until

deeply golden, 5

minutes. Proceed

with base recipe in

the same pot,

using 1 cup cream,

1 cup milk and 1

cup coconut milk.

Let custard steep

off the heat for 1

hour before

straining (press

down hard on the

solids). Add

reserved coconut

to base during the

last 2 minutes of

churning.



The Only IceCream RecipeYou'll EverNeed

By MELISSA CLARK

A custard base

you can flavor any

way you like (and

16 ideas to get you

started).

Ever True toYou, LocalParlor

By KIM SEVERSON

Old-school

regional ice

creams don’t have

to sell the latest

flavors to please

their local fans.

ChocolateGanache, anEasygoingFrench Treat

By JULIA MOSKIN

Elegant and

simple to make,

ganache is the

most impressive

thing you can

serve over ice

cream.

You Say Soft, ISay Serve

By JENNIFERSTEINHAUER

Somewhere

between frozen

yogurt and

artisanal ice

creams, there is

soft serve, a staple

that is due our

love.

You Say Soft, ISay Serve

By JENNIFERSTEINHAUER

Somewhere

between frozen

yogurt and

artisanal ice

creams, there is

soft serve, a staple

that is due our

love.

CITY KITCHEN

A Crush ofSummerFlavors

By DAVID TANIS

Make your own

sweet or savory

sorbet, or a fresh

take on shaved ice.

HUNGRY CITY

A JourneyBegins With aSingle Scoop

By LIGAYA MISHAN

Parlors tucked

away in ethnic

enclaves offer

exotic flavors that

are occasions for

nostalgia.

THE ICE CREAM ISSUE

churning.

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http://www.nytimes.com/2014/07/02/dining/hungry-city-old-world-ice-cream-parlors.html?nav



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The Master Ice Cream Recipe - NYTimes