THE EDIBLE CAMINO

A Field Guide to Wild Edibles Along the Camino de Santiago

Tomer KilchevskyCourtney Jean Perry

Photographs and Illustrations by Courtney Jean Perry

Dedicated with love to Gabriela Friedman

Copyright © 2016 Tomer Kilchevsky and Courtney Jean Perry

Photographs and illustrations copyright © 2016 Courtney Jean Perry

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced by

any means or form without written permission from the authors.

Project Manager Tomer KilchevskyGraphic Designer Noam ChenEditors Caity Cunningham, Amy ClarkNutritional Advisor Lindsay KilchevskyCopy Editor Leah Todd Brown

Cover Design Noam ChenCover Photo Courtney Jean Perry

First Printing February 2016

Printed by Wild GuidesISBN-13: 978-0692590621

ISBN-10: 0692590625

The Edible Camino is printed on ecological paper that reflects

our concern for the well-being of forests around the world.

Visit our website ediblecamino.com

-

Contact us at wildguides2016@gmail.com

wildguides

preface 7

acknowledgements 9

introduction 11

part 1 pl ants 25Plant Parts & Definitions

part 2 mushrooms 167Mushroom Parts & Definitions

part 3 recipes 197

glossary: Nutritional & Medicinal Terms 248

index 254

recommended stages: Camino Francés 256

TABLE OF CONTENTS

2322

recommended harvesting days indicated by colored segments;

based on abundance and availability of safe harvesting

sites; numbers refer to 33 stages of the Camino; see note*

common name

scientific nameplant family

commonly used parts of the plant

harvesting season of a particular plant part,

specific to northern Spain, may shift according to

environmental conditions

References recipe(s) in which the featured plant is used

Detailed and accurate sketches show key

plant characteristics

description focuses on essential features for

correct identification

annotations show correlation betweensketch and text and pinpoint key

characteristics to help with identification

on the trail highlights the habitat, usually

specific to the Camino

Common height range

Shows characteristic of plant habit

harvesting notes provide information for plants that require special care while harvesting; included when necessary

Tab indicates blossom color or range of colors; grey indicates mushrooms

Includes examples (not all) of similar species and their distinctive characteristics; further research on behalf of the reader is necessary

introduction: key pageintroduction: key page

culinary notes offer information about common uses of the edible parts

*NOTE: the recommended harvesting days figure is meant to help you focus your search for the featured plants. You are more likely to encounter the plant at hand while you walk the highlighted stage than in other sections. That said, once you learn to identify a plant, we are certain you will begin to see it in other sections as well; don’t let the recommendation deter you from expanding your search. Refer to p. 256 for a complete breakdown of the 33 stages.

When relevant, highlights nutritional values of featured plant; medicinal values occasionally included

5958

Common HawthornSN Crataegus monogyna F Rosaceae

leaves: spring to fall flowers: springfruit: fall

up to 6 mDescription | Habit — Highly-branched, deciduous shrub or small tree. Flower — White, fragrant, 5 petals and sepals, numerous pink

anthers, 1 style, large clusters; blossoms May to June. Leaf — 3-7 lobes, toothed at the tips, glossy. Stem — Numerous emerging from

the base, occasionally with a single trunk; thorny twigs. Bark — Grey to brown, cracked. Fruit — Deep red, one-seeded berries, 8 mm to 10 mm. On the trail — Very common, found in a variety of habitats such as open hillsides, woodland edges, and hedgerows. Culinary notes — Leaves: raw when young, cooked when older. Fruit: mildly sweet, mealy texture; acceptable raw but best in jams, syrups, and sauces. Flowers: used to make syrups

or as a garnish. Medicinal values — Well-studied in conventional and alternative medicine. Known for its antioxidant, antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, and antidiabetic properties as well as for decreasing heart rate. Similar species — English hawthorn (C. laevigata): 2-3 seeded berries. Similar edible properties. Azarole (C. azarole): white downy hairs on young shoots; larger, paler fruit. Edible fruit.

whitepart one: plants

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 11 12 13 14 18 20 25

St. Jean Pamplona Logroño Burgos Sahagún León Ponferrada Sarria Santiago

7776

Description | Flower — White to pale pink; dense, cylindrical spikes; 4 projecting stamens. Calyx: 5-lobed,

veined, hairy. Blossoms July to September. Leaf — Opposite, usually oval, toothed, wrinkled, fuzzy; hairy

Apple MintSN Mentha suaveolens F Lamiaceae

leaves: spring to fall selected recipes — p. 225, 247

30-100 cm

on the topside with white downy hairs on the underside; sessile, sweet scented. Stem — Erect, branched, densely hairy. On the trail — Seen in significant quantities in Navarre and Galicia. Culinary notes — Leaves: raw or cooked. Great in teas, jellies, salad, and cooked dishes. A key ingredient in the Middle Eastern tabouli salad. Throw a sprig in your water bottle for a refreshing drink while walking. Nutritional values — Contains vitamins A and C, iron, and calcium. Medicinal values —

Traditionally and still commonly used to treat digestion problems. Contains menthol and carvone, two chemicals with numerous medicinal merits including antioxidant and anti-inflammatory qualities. Similar species — Many other fantastic mints may be found along the Camino such as: horsemint (M. longifolia), corn mint (M. arvensis), and spearmint (M. spicata). All have similar nutritional, medicinal, and culinary uses.

white to pinkpart one: plants

1 2 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33

St. Jean Pamplona Logroño Burgos Sahagún León Ponferrada Sarria Santiago

9594

[c]

[a][b]

[d]

Crow Garlic SN Allium vineale F Liliaceae

leaves: late winter, spring flowers, bulbils, root: summer selected recipe — p. 219

30-120 cm

Description | Flower — Pink or green to white, 6 small petals, long stalks [a]; blossoms April to August. Often

dense, spherical, stalk-less bulbil clusters exist without flowers. Aerial bulbil — Dark red, lighter when

mature [b]. Leaf — Low on the stem, hollow, flat at the base, rounder towards the tip. Stem — Erect, smooth, unbranched, solid; tougher with age. Root — Small bulb, often with tiny bulbils attached [c]. Distinctive characteristic — Strong garlic odor. On the trail — Pastures, fields, and woodland edges. Culinary notes — Leaves: a bit tough; great for broths or salads when chopped thinly. Flowers: in vinaigrettes or as a garnish. Bulbils: a crunchy, colorful

addition to salads, sauces, and salsas. Root: same uses as cultivated garlic. Nutritional values — Contains sulfur compounds, flavonoids, dietary fiber, and selenium. Medicinal values — Beneficial to the digestive, cardiovascular, immune, and fertility systems. Similar species — Field garlic (A. oleraceum) and sand leek (A. scorodoprasum): Common along the Camino; both bear 2 spathes while crow garlic bears 1 spathe [d]. Both edible.

pinkpart one: plants

4 12 16

St. Jean Pamplona Logroño Burgos Sahagún León Ponferrada Sarria Santiago

113112 blue to violetpart one: plants

Common Dog VioletSN Viola riviniana F Violaceae

leaves: spring to fall flowers: spring selected recipe — p. 213

up to 40 cmDescription | Flower — Blue-violet, 5 overlapping petals with a white center, lower petal with dark-purple veins; 5 pointy sepals; unscented;

solitary on a scarcely-hairy-to-hairless stem. Spur: usually white, curved upwards, and notched [a]. Blossoms April to May. Leaf —

[a]

[b]

Ovate-to-kidney or heart-shaped, generally as long as wide; hairless or nearly so, roundly toothed; long, mostly hairless stalk (up to 12 cm); green to brown stipules with spreading teeth [b]. Basal rosette present. Fruit — 3-valved capsule. On the trail — Shaded areas such as woodlands, forest margins, and rocky slopes. Nutritional values — Good source of vitamins A and C (general to all violets). Culinary notes — Leaves: raw or cooked. Bland to slightly bitter in flavor;

used as spinach. Flowers: raw, in salads or as a garnish. Medicinal values — Contains salicylic acid, an ingredient in aspirin. Similar species — Violets are highly variable and often hybridize, making it difficult to distinguish between species. However, all are known to be edible, for example: heath dog violet (V. canina): no basal rosette present; teesdale violet (V. rupestris): spur usually violet in color, typically found in open areas. Warning — Roots, seedpods, and seeds are poisonous.

1 11 27 28 29 32 33

St. Jean Pamplona Logroño Burgos Sahagún León Ponferrada Sarria Santiago

123122

[a]

[c]

[b]

[d]

Spanish Oyster ThistleSN Scolymus hispanicus F Asteraceae

leaves, midribs, caudex: spring, occasionally summer and fall

20-80 cm

Description | Flower — Ray florets: golden-yellow; 2-4 cm, terminal [a] or lateral [b]. Bracts: 3; leafy,

spiny; circle and extend beyond the flower heads [c]. Blossoms June to September. Leaf — Basal

rosette: radial, long (up to 30 cm); somewhat flat to the ground; lobes extend close to the midrib; less rigid and spiny than stem leaves (can be harvested without gloves). Stem leaves: alternate, stiff, leathery; spiny tips and lobes; blades run down the stem forming discontinued wings [d]. Stem — Erect, slender; branches at the top. Fruit — Achenes with 2-4 stiff bristles. On the trail — Appears in sunny areas, disturbed soil, uncultivated land, and roadsides.

Harvesting note — At the basal rosette stage, cut the root 2-3 cm below the ground, removing caudex and rosette leaves. Run fingers along midribs to remove foliage. Although spiny, possible to harvest without gloves. Best before blossom as leaves become bitter and fibrous. Culinary notes — Midribs and caudex: raw or cooked; excellent in stir-fries, stews, and salads.

yellowpart one: plants

13 14 15 16 17 18 22

St. Jean Pamplona Logroño Burgos Sahagún León Ponferrada Sarria Santiago

181180 gilled

Description | Cap — 1-5 cm in diameter, pale brown, tan, or buff. Bell-shaped when young becoming convex and flat when mature; margins often wavy and grooved, turning upwards when mature. Distinct dark nob at the center of the cap. Gills — White to cream or pale brown, well-spaced (distant), different sizes; usually free from the stem, but sometimes lightly touching. Flesh — White, firm, tough. Stem — 2-8 cm long, same color as the cap or paler; cylindrical, smooth, solid, very tough and flexible, does not break when bent. Ring — Absent. Spore print — White. Habitat — Mainly grows in grassy areas such as pastures, meadows, and lawns. Fruits in “fairy” rings or wavy lines.

Culinary notes — Cooked or dried. Although rather small, it is a choice edible and can be found in large quantities. To fully appreciate the flavor simply sauté in olive oil with a touch of garlic and salt. Many people suggest discarding the stems due to toughness, however we find them quite suitable for consumption. Beloved in Spain, it is referred to as “senderuela” (Cinderella). Similar species — M. collinus: stem is lighter in color; fragile, breaks when bent. Poisonous. Collybia dryophila: hollow stem, crowded gills, grows in woodlands; no central knob. Poisonous. Clitocybe dealbata: grey cap; crowded gills touch and almost run down the stem. Poisonous.

Scotch BonnetSN Marasmius oreades F Marasmiaceae

harvesting season: summer, fallfruit body: gilled habitat: lawns and pastures selected recipe — p. 230

part two: mushrooms

189188 gilled

Poplar MushroomSN Agrocybe aegerita F Strophariaceae

harvesting season: spring to fallfruit body: gilled habitat: live or dead wood selected recipe — p. 229

Description | Cap — 2-10 cm in diameter; hemispherical and brown when young; flatter and whiter when mature; cracked, pale yellow to brown when dry. Gills — Attached, light grey when young, brown when mature. Flesh — White, tough, compact. Stem — Long (up to 15 cm), slender (up to 1 1/2 cm in diameter), fibrous. White to light brown. Ring — White to light brown, present towards the top of the stem. Spore print — Brown. Habitat — Appears in tight clusters, most commonly at the base of dead or live poplar trees (Populus spp.), though may also be found growing high on the trunk or in hollowed-out wood. The most common host species seen on the Camino is the

Lombardy black poplar (Populus nigra ‘Italica’). For correct identification of the mushroom, it is essential to recognize the host tree. Lombardy black poplar — Deciduous, columnar habit, grows up to 40 m. Leaf: alternate, triangular, simple, toothed, hairless. Bark: grey, furrowed.

Culinary notes — Best when young, though maintains great flavor when mature. A well-known mushroom amongst Spaniards, it is referred to as the “seta de chopo,” (“mushroom of the poplar”). Relatively prolific; fed us well during our spring, summer, and fall walks. Harvesting note — Cut individual mushrooms at the base of the stem. Mature specimens tend to get wormy.

Lombardy black poplar, Populus nigra 'Italica'

part two: mushrooms

209208

Adapted from the recipe of a gifted Austrian cook living in the foothills of the Italian Alps, this salad offers a lighter, vegan alternative to many traditional potato salad recipes. Balanced by tangy vinegar and starchy potatoes, the flavor of the oxeye daisy is pleasantly subtle. Makes a great trail lunch.

METHOD 1 Boil whole potatoes with skin until soft, 20-30 minutes. 2 When cool enough to handle, peel and cut into slices. 3 Place all ingredients in a bowl and mix carefully so as to not break the potato slices. 4 Serve cold or at room temperature.

INGREDIENTS 4 large potatoes

1/2 small red onion,

thinly chopped

1/2 cup oxeye daisy

leaves (p. 36)

3 tbsp white vinegar

3 tbsp olive oil

1 1/2 tsp salt

Pinch of black pepper

Oxeye Daisy Potato Saladvegan preparation time 45 minutes makes 4 servings

The addition of wild greens, along with a splash of colorful petals, adds significant nutritional value and aesthetic appeal to an otherwise routine salad. The bitter flavor of dandelion is softened when combined with lettuce and this sweet, savory vinaigrette. It’s downright dandy!

METHOD 1 Thoroughly whisk together all vinaigrette ingredients. Add salt and black pepper to taste. 2 In a bowl, lightly toss lettuce, dandelion, and vinaigrette. 3 Place on a plate and sprinkle wild flower petals on top.

Downright Dandy Saladvegan preparation time 20 minutes makes 2-4 servings

INGREDIENTS Salad 1 lettuce head, coarsely

chopped

1 cup dandelion leaves

(p. 126), thinly chopped

1/4 cup wild flower

petals such as

dandelion, blue

cornflower (p. 100),

pot marigold (p. 116)

Vinaigrette 1/4 cup olive oil

1 tbsp vinegar

1 tsp mustard

1 tsp honey or sugar

1/2 lemon, juiced

Pinch of salt and black

pepper

Wild thyme (p. 110) or

oregano (p. 88)

part three: recipes saladspart three: recipes salads

223222 part three: recipes appetizers & side dishes

This fabulous fritter recipe was shared by the hosts at El Serbal y la Luna in Pieros during a recovery rest day; blossoms were picked, prepared, and happily consumed in under an hour. The fried umbels become delectably crunchy yet still retain their subtle sweetness. A fun kitchen project, this dish makes an excellent appetizer for sharing.

METHOD 1 In a bowl, mix spices with corn flour. 2 Pour milk of choice into a separate bowl. To ease the preparation, create an assembly line of blossoms, milk, and spiced flour. 3 One by one, dip blossoms first in milk, then in the flour mixture. Place on a plate to await frying. 4 In a deep pan, heat oil. 5 Break off a small cluster from a blossom to test the oil temperature—the cluster should sizzle immediately but not burn. Adjust heat if necessary. 6 Place blossoms stem-up in the pan and fry until golden brown. 7 Remove from oil and place on a plate lined with a paper towel. 8 Repeat procedure until all blossoms are cooked. Serve immediately.

Elderflower Frittersvegan preparation time 45 minutes makes 15 fritters

INGREDIENTS 15 elderflower clusters

(p. 46)

1 cup nut, rice,

or soy milk

1 cup corn flour

1 cup vegetable oil

1 tsp oregano (p. 88)

1 tsp curry powder

1/2 tsp garlic powder

1 tsp salt

part three: recipes appetizers & side dishes

In traditional Italian cuisine, carpaccio is made from thinly sliced beef, seasoned and served raw. Nowadays, many people replace the meat with just about anything you can shave into a skinny strip—zucchini is a popular choice. In this recipe, the absorbent vegetable soaks up the zingy marinade, but remains mild enough so we can appreciate the flavor of salad burnet. Feel free to get creative and play with other seasonal ingredients.

METHOD 1 Spread zucchini shavings flat in one layer on a plate. 2 Evenly sprinkle salt and drizzle with lemon juice. 3 Let marinade for 5 to 10 minutes. 4 Disperse salad burnet leaves, hot pepper slices, and pistachios atop zucchini. 5 Drizzle with olive oil and serve.

Zucchini Carpaccio with Salad Burnetvegan preparation time 25 minutes makes 2-4 servings

INGREDIENTS 1 zucchini, shaved or

very thinly sliced

1/2 lemon, juiced

1/2 cup salad burnet

leaves (p. 98)

1 small red chili, thinly

sliced

20 pistachios, crushed

2 tbsp olive oil

Pinch of salt

233232 part three: recipes mains

When it comes to food on the Camino, the Spanish “tortilla de patatas” is a go-to grub option for pilgrims. Spaniards typically eat it during almuerzo, the small meal between breakfast and lunch, but some pilgrims eat it three times a day. With many styles of preparation, we decided to augment the classic tortilla with the addition of juicy milk thistle.

METHOD 1 Layer about 1 cm of oil in a medium-sized pan. Heat until sizzling. 2 Add potatoes, onion, and milk thistle. Cover and cook until tender, stirring occasionally (about 15 minutes). 3 Meanwhile, whisk eggs in a bowl with salt. 4 Add cooked vegetables to the eggs, leaving the oil in the pan. Mix vegetables and eggs thoroughly. 5 Reduce heat to medium. Add more oil if needed, enough to coat the surface. 6 Pour egg mixture into the pan. Use a spatula to continuously press around the edges of the tortilla, forming a curve both on the top and undersurface. Cook for 4 minutes. 7 Place a large plate on top of the pan and flip the tortilla so it sits raw-side down on the plate. Slide the tortilla back to the pan raw-side down and cook for another 4 minutes. 8 Slice and serve. Makes great leftovers!

Milk Thistle Spanish Tortillavegetarian preparation time 35 minutes makes 2-4 servings

INGREDIENTS 3 small-to-medium

potatoes, peeled and

sliced to half-moons

1 cm thick

1 onion, thinly sliced

1 cup milk thistle stems

(p. 104), chopped to

rings

5 eggs

1 tsp salt

Olive oil for frying

part three: recipes mains

Crispy on the outside, warm on the inside, these balls are comparable to the classic Middle Eastern

falafel. The mellow flavor of couscous allows for a true celebration of the pungent oregano. A fun recipe to make with friends. Can be served alone, within a lettuce wrap, or accompanied by a tomato sauce or hummus dip.

METHOD 1 Bring 1 1/4 cups water to a boil. Pour over couscous in a medium-sized bowl, cover with a plate and set aside. 2 Once couscous is cool enough to handle, add oregano, garlic, almonds, salt, black pepper, honey, and olive oil. Knead well with hands until a sticky dough forms. 3 Roll into small balls about 3 cm in diameter. 4 Pour vegetable oil into a pan (about 2 cm deep) and preheat on medium-to-high heat. Drop a bit of couscous into the oil to test the temperature; it should sizzle immediately but not burn. 5 Submerge balls into hot oil, gently turning until all sides are golden brown. 6 Best when hot, so serve immediately!

Oregano Couscous Ballsvegan preparation time 35 minutes makes about 15 balls

INGREDIENTS 1 1/4 cups water

1 cup couscous

2 tbsp oregano (p. 88),

finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

20 almonds (p. 78),

thinly chopped

1 tsp salt

1/2 tsp black pepper

1 tsp honey

1 tbsp olive oil

Vegetable oil for frying