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T HE C ORRAN H ERALD • 2005/2006 Contents Page Ballymote Heritage Weekend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 A Postcard from Ballymote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Travel and Transport in Bygone Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Glaisne Ó Cuilleanáin – Last Abbot of St Mary’s Cistercian Abbey, Boyle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Bog Gazing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Some Recorded Old Place-names of Castledargan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Sligo NFA/IFA Golden Jubilee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Making St. Brigid’s Crosses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 The Sacred Heart Altar in the Church of the Immaculate Conception, Ballymote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Heelin Coos: Scotland’s Favourite Beasts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Very Rev. T. Canon Quinn, P.P . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Bellamont House, Collooney, and other 17th Century Fortified Houses in Co. Sligo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Swinford Mercy Order 150th Anniversary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Aghanagh Church of Ireland 150th Anniversary 1855-2005 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Roger Chambers Walker, Sligo Antiquary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Significance of the Brother Walfrid Monument in the 21st Century . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Perth Irish honour Ballymote man . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Planning a Church . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Ballymote Corn Mill (Gorman’s Mill) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Sir John Benson, 1812-1874, Architect and Engineer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Terence O’Rorke, 1819-1907 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Ballymote Public Houses, from 1910 to the Present . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 An Aughris-type Enclosure on Knocklane, Co. Sligo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Napoleonic Towers in Co. Sligo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Extracts from Freeman’s Journal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Henry Morris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Milk Harbour and its vicinity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Mountains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Joe More, The Landlord of Doocastle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 The Irish Folklore Commission Schools Collection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Rural Days Gone By – Pictures from a Vanished Ireland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Had Me Made : A Study of the Grave Memorials of Co. Sligo from c. 1650 to the Present . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Ballymote Sports in 1905 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Sporting History: Bunninadden Emmets 1991 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Ballymote Heritage Group 20th AGM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 The Arigna Mining Experience . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Sri Lanka after the Waves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Patrick McDonagh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Tom Shiels 1908 – 1963 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Sligo v Mayo Boxing 1964 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 My Schooldays in the 1960s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Townlands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 John M Keaney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 The Fair Day in Farnaharpy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Forty Years on in Collooney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Presentation to Eileen Tighe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Sligo winners in the 51st Texaco Children’s Art Competition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Scouts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 1

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ContentsPage

Ballymote Heritage Weekend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2A Postcard from Ballymote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Travel and Transport in Bygone Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Glaisne Ó Cuilleanáin – Last Abbot of St Mary’s Cistercian Abbey, Boyle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Bog Gazing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Some Recorded Old Place-names of Castledargan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Sligo NFA/IFA Golden Jubilee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Making St. Brigid’s Crosses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18The Sacred Heart Altar in the Church of the Immaculate Conception, Ballymote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Heelin Coos: Scotland’s Favourite Beasts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Very Rev. T. Canon Quinn, P.P. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Bellamont House, Collooney, and other 17th Century Fortified Houses in Co. Sligo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Swinford Mercy Order 150th Anniversary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27Aghanagh Church of Ireland 150th Anniversary 1855-2005 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Roger Chambers Walker, Sligo Antiquary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31Significance of the Brother Walfrid Monument in the 21st Century . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33Perth Irish honour Ballymote man . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Planning a Church . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Ballymote Corn Mill (Gorman’s Mill) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35Sir John Benson, 1812-1874, Architect and Engineer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Terence O’Rorke, 1819-1907 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Ballymote Public Houses, from 1910 to the Present . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40An Aughris-type Enclosure on Knocklane, Co. Sligo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41Napoleonic Towers in Co. Sligo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43Extracts from Freeman’s Journal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46Henry Morris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46Milk Harbour and its vicinity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47Mountains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Joe More, The Landlord of Doocastle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51The Irish Folklore Commission Schools Collection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53Rural Days Gone By – Pictures from a Vanished Ireland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54Had Me Made : A Study of the Grave Memorials of Co. Sligo from c. 1650 to the Present . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55Ballymote Sports in 1905 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56Sporting History: Bunninadden Emmets 1991 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57Ballymote Heritage Group 20th AGM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57The Arigna Mining Experience . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Sri Lanka after the Waves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61Patrick McDonagh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63Tom Shiels 1908 – 1963 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64Sligo v Mayo Boxing 1964 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65My Schooldays in the 1960s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Townlands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68John M Keaney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69The Fair Day in Farnaharpy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70Forty Years on in Collooney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72Presentation to Eileen Tighe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Sligo winners in the 51st Texaco Children’s Art Competition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Scouts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

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2

Ballymote Heritage Weekend

LECTURES: €6.00TRANSPORT AVAILABLE FOR OUTINGS

16TH ANNUAL

FRIDAY 29th JULY toMONDAY 1st AUGUST 2005IN PASTORAL CENTRE, BALLYMOTE, CO. SLIGO

FRIDAY 29th JULY8.30 p.m. OFFICIAL OPENING Desmond Fitzgerald, Knight of Glin, Author & Historian

LECTURE: The Architecture of Irish Gardens from the Restoration to theRomantic Age – DESMOND FITZGERALD

MONDAY 1st AUGUST10.00 a.m. OUTING: Tuam - Ecclesiastical Capital of Connacht.

GUIDE: TONY CLAFFEY MA, PHD

8.30 p.m. LECTURE: From Ireland to Antarctica – 100 years of Shackletons visiting Antarctica.Jonathan Shackleton, Lecturer and Family Historian for the Irish Shackletons.

SUNDAY 31st JULY2.00p.m. OUTING: Tulsk Heritage Centre and adjacent sites; Rathcroghan

8.30p.m. LECTURE: Mullaghfarna, Ireland’s Largest Stone Age Village!DR. STEFAN BERGH, LECTURER, DEPT OF ARCHAEOLOGY, NUI GALWAY.

SATURDAY 30th JULY10.30a.m. OUTING: Charlestown and Swinford areas.

To include Michael Davitt Centre, Straide Abbey, Swinford Workhouse and mass rave, and other sites. – GUIDE: MICHAEL MURPHY, HISTORIAN

8.30 p.m. LECTURE: An introduction to Ireland’s Industrial Archaeology.PAUL DUFFY BE, LLB, CENG, FIEI

grave,

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T H E C O R R A N H E R A L D • 2 0 0 5 / 2 0 0 6

A Postcard from BallymoteAidan Mannion

OCTOBER 1st is a very special day in the history ofpostcards, with the first postcards in the world beingproduced in Austria on that date in 1869. Exactly oneyear later, on October 1st 1870, the first postcardswere issued by the UK Post Office for England andIreland. These had stamps pre-printed on them for onehalf penny, half the letter rate. I illustrate this periodwith a card sent from the Hibernian Bank, Ballymote,to Stratford-on-Avon, dated 13/9/1876 (first cardshown). You will note how business was fast to see theuses of the postcard.

A picture was first allowed on cards in 1894. Thisdevelopment can be traced back to the illustratedenvelopes of an Irishman, Mulready, in the 1840s.Initially cards were only allowed to have a name andaddress on one side and the photo on the other (nospace for a message). In 1902 the address side of thecard was divided in two with a space for a message andanother for the address. This format has stayed with usnow for over one hundred years.

The price and speed of the postcard in the firsttwenty years of the 20th century led to this periodbeing called "the golden age of postcard collecting".Albums were sold and into these were put cards fromfamily members travelling around the world. In mycollection I have two large albums created by a Sligomother from two wallpaper sample books. Shemethodically put into these albums the cards sent byher British Army son from all over the world. Theyvaried from cards that were ration tokens during theBoer War to hundreds from field post offices in theFirst World War. These latter cards were pre-printedand because of censorship he could only tick one offour greetings and sign his name.

With the great demand for cards, many materialswere used in their production: wood, turf, leather,metal and embroidered silk. Many types wereproduced: topographical, portrait, mechanical, hold tolight, shaped, panoramic, political, humourous, andadvertising (sixth card, next page), to name a few.

Colour was introduced to postcards by hand-colouring as colour printing had not yet beenperfected. Most of the early cards were printed inGermany, having been commissioned by local shopsor businesses.

Today, your polling card, or an ESB notice that yourpower will be off on a certain day, are forms ofpostcards. Unfortunately the special postal ratefinished on April 4th 1998.

Dedication:I would like to remember Misses Gladys and Mabel West of theStrandhill Road, Sligo, who loved stamp collecting and in factproduced their own first day covers and postcards from Sligo.

• Aidan Mannion is President of Sligo Field Club.

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Showing both sides of a banking postcard with prepaid stamp, theearliest form of postcard in Ireland. It was posted on Sep 13th,1876

Postcard showing Earlsfield House, sent from Ballymote on July7th 1906 to a lady on Ratcliff Street, Sligo, "for her collection"

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An embossed colour card sent from Ballymote to Dublin onJuly 14th 1907

Postcard showing the back of a coloured greeting card. Notethe half penny English stamp, cancelled by a very clear rubberBallymote mark, and "Printed in Germany"

This is a novelty card. The picture of the owl opens forwardand a "concertina" of twelve views of Ballymote appearsbehind

One of two cards I have advertising Flannery’s Hotel inBallymote

Beautiful coloured postcards showing Main Street and LordEdward Street, Ballymote. Published by Acme, there should besix different cards in this series. About 1910. These twoparticular cards were never used

Postcard showing an interior view of the Church of Ireland,Ballymote. Note the oil lighting. This was posted on ChristmasEve morning,1907, to Ballinamallard, Co Fermanagh

A colour card of Ballymote Castle, published by Marcus Wardof Belfast. Posted Sep 17th 1907

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Travel and Transport in BygoneDaysPJ Duffy

IN OLDEN TIMES the majority ofyounger people residing in this part ofthe country went from place to placeon foot, sometimes travelling longdistances. But apart from those whoemigrated or moved out to take upemployment elsewhere, the greaternumber of those who stayed nevertravelled very far outside their ownparticular area.

On reaching old age, many of thesepeople if forced to travel a journeywould do so on the back of a donkey,jennet or mule. As recently as the1940s there was a number of old menstill using this mode of conveyance toget to their respective destinations.Moving a little further back in time,stories have been told of old ladiestravelling this way as well.

Men usually placed an old sack onthe donkey’s back to sit on, but ladiesused a straw mat specially made sothat they could sit sideways whiletravelling.

In the early 1940s there was oneold man in particular who used topass by the school at lunchtime everyFriday riding on a white donkey, enroute to the Post Office to draw hisold-age pension. He would tether hisdonkey by the roadside and thenmove on to collect his weeklyallowance. On the animal’s back wasplaced an old guano bag, probablywell washed and free from anychemical, but with the brandGoulding’s Fertiliser clearly visibleon its surface.

Although he seemed to be gettingon in years, this donkey alwaysappeared to be jittery and nervouswhen passing by where the schoolchildren usually assembled. Anyflicker of a garment, or any piece ofpaper blowing across the road on awindy day, would cause the donkey toswiftly turn around and move in theopposite direction from the oneintended. This would annoy the oldman greatly and he would give out tothe children for their behaviour in

trying to frighten his animal. Hewould go so far as to complain to theteacher about it. Although most of thechildren would obediently submit tothe discipline imposed, there were thefew unruly rascals who thought it allgreat fun and would continue toannoy the old man by throwing piecesof newspaper on the road as he passedby.

Back in the 1700s and early 1800sremote areas of our country were verymuch underdeveloped where publicroads were concerned. In the absenceof proper thoroughfares people wereforced to use old pathways andboreens to get from their homes to thelocal village.

Since most of these oldpassageways were totally unsuited forthe use of a two wheeled vehicle likea cart, people usually conveyed goodsfrom one place to another by meansof donkeys and creels or pordógs. Thelittle donkey was a versatile animalwell suited to travelling along thenarrow tracks that stretched acrossthe countryside.

Meanwhile, as those unfortunatepeople were getting on with theirwretched lives, the gentry and betteroff sections of the community wouldtravel on horseback. Unlike the poorman on the donkey, the horseman waslikely to have the advantage of a goodcomfortable leather saddle to sit on,and a pair of iron stirrups to rest hisfeet on.

Ironically because of reliefschemes initiated during the 1840sfamine period, the condition of theroad network started to improve. As aresult, more and more people usinghorse-drawn transport could get by.And again, this mostly benefited thebetter off who had this type oftransport. The dray-cart became themobile vehicle by which mostagricultural goods were transportedoverland to fairs, markets, mills andother processing plants.

During this period also improved

lighter sprung vehicles were beingdesigned and constructed forconveying people from place toplace. Titles were duly allotted toeach special cab-design.

The sidecar, better known as the"jaunting car", was a vehicle drawnby one horse that became hugelypopular with members of the public.It had a slender, hollow, rectangularbox that stretched from front to backright down the centre of its chassis.This was known as the well.Cushioned seats were arranged eachside of this crest, each seat having aleg compartment fitted with afootboard and an iron step formounting or dismounting from thevehicle.

The tub-trap, also drawn by asingle animal, was oval in shape. Itsbody was somewhat rounded with itsprojection being slightly longer thanbroad. Cushioned seats were arrangedon each side of its inner part. Anarrow hinged door opened out at theback to admit passengers who used aniron step placed just above groundlevel.

The gig was yet another single-animal vehicle. It had two largewheels and its chassis was shorter indesign than the other vehicles. Fouradult passengers usually sat back toback on cushions placed each side ofa single padded back-board whichcould be adjusted to give the vehiclebetter balance. Iron steps were fittedat the front and rear.

It has been said that the gig wasdesigned for giving greater speed,and people who owned them werealways on the lookout for a goodswift steed to give vent to the purposefor which they were intended. Therewas also a gig that seated just twopeople.

While the better off sections of thecommunity continued to makeprogress, the little fellow with thedonkey was also endeavouring toimprove his lot. Despite his meagre

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income, he too was visiting hiscarpenter and harness-maker so thathe might have his animal fitted outwith the equipment necessary fordoing business on the country’shighways. The donkey box-cart andtiny tub trap became extremelypopular with country people andcontinued to remain so well into thetwentieth century.

In the early years of the nineteenthcentury an Italian immigrant to ourcountry founded a transport systemwhich was to operate successfullythroughout the length and breadth ofthe land. His name was CharlesBianconi, a name that becamesynonymous with public transportand remains so even to the presentday.

Bianconi’s stage-coaches travelledfrom Dublin to Sligo town, theirhandlers checking in at several pointsalong the route for a change of horsesand for refreshments for the peopleaboard. A return coach would sometime later set off from Sligo toDublin, travelling towards Boyle andchecking in at Castlebaldwin wherethere was a stage post. The Dublin –Sligo journey was said to have takenaround fifteen hours each way.

People from the Ballymote areaavailing of the service would makecontact with the coach at Drumfin. Tothis day that particular stretch ofroadway is often referred to as "theMail-Coach Road".

Because of an old rhyme that wascirculating in the area at that time, thememory of one coach-driver surviveshere in folk memory:

Shivnan from out KeadueWas a horseman of renown;He drove a stately mail-coachFrom Boyle to Sligo town.

The coach operating along thisroute was a spacious well-designedvehicle carrying around twelvepassengers as well as transporting aconsignment of mail in acompartment located above itsrooftop.

Bianconi also had a number ofsmaller vehicles called post-chaisecabs operating between outlyingtowns and villages. In addition to thisthere were a number of people withvehicles of their own operating a sort

of freelance service across localareas.

Accounts handed down from aprevious generation inform us that anold stage-post once existed atRathmullen, where mail was sortedand despatched to the Gurteen andMullaghroe areas. Passengers settingout on scheduled routes also stoppedby to undergo journeys in thisdirection. Names of carmen whooperated on this route for a time wereGuthrie and Woodland.

Another old post was said to haveexisted at Roadstown on a stretch ofroad about midway betweenBallymote and Tubbercurry. Mail wasalso sorted here and despatched to theBunninadden and Achonry areas.Names of carmen here were Greerand Bowman. This was in the days ofthe old black penny stamp.

In Killavil there were local carmenwho provided a transport service intheir own area. One was MichaelScully who was well known fortaking clergymen about on theirspiritual duties, and at times takingthem further afield to meet withsenior members of the hierarchy. Hislong-time dedication and loyalty tothe "men of the cloth" was to earnhim the nickname "Mick the priest".

There was Jack Brennan ofPhaleesh who was a noted horsemanand jarvey. Not only could he trainand handle horses, but he could curemost of their ailments as well. He wasthe man called out to give assistanceto a mare having difficulty in givingbirth to a foal. He could correctspavins and cure sprains prevalent inhorses’ legs. He became so active inthis field that eventually he came to

be known as "Jack the quack".The coming of the railway in 1862

was to spell the beginning of the endfor Bianconi’s transport system.Instead of waiting long periods forhorses to arrive, mail could now bedelivered swiftly by rail. And peopletravelling between Sligo, Boyle andDublin would go by train.

Although the larger coachesgradually became redundant, smallerpost-chaise vehicles drawn by twohorses continued to operate a servicelinking smaller towns. So too didprivate carmen with one-horsevehicles; a good part of their timenow was taken up driving their clientsto and from the railway station.

As we moved into the twentiethcentury we also arrived at the dawn ofa new era: the age of the motorcar andmotorised transport had begun.Petrol-powered engines took over anddid the jobs that horses had beendoing up till then.

This was also the time when pedalbicycles started to appear on publicroads in increasing numbers.

It was well into the second decadeof the century before motorcars madetheir appearance in any significantnumbers, and, as had happenedbefore, only the better off members ofthe community could afford to buythem.

The coming of the motorcar wasset to dispense with the need formany horse-drawn vehicles,especially in built-up areas. It alsoseriously affected those people whoselivelihood depended mainly on theolder form of transport.

Craftsmen like Murrays whooperated an extensive coach-building

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business at Newtown (now WolfeTone St), Ballymote, harness-makers,blacksmiths, stable boys, horse-trainers – all these now foundthemselves more or less out on alimb. Horse-dealers and breedersbecame sidelined to a great extent asthe larger vehicles ground to a halt.

Famous names from the horse-dealing days still linger on here infolk memory: Calder-Banks, Vickey,Malone, d’Arcy, Spellman. Peoplefrom a previous generation used tosay that these gentlemen were all"great judges of horse-flesh".

From some old records we learnthat the stagecoach system had itsshare of problems. The country’sroads in those days had roughsurfaces that were often pitted withpotholes and had stretches that weredeeply rutted. Horses could turn outto be troublesome. Coaches couldoverturn resulting in serious injury oreven death to the travellers.

Passenger complaints werecommon, as we learn from astatement from one lady traveller.According to her account there werenine passengers travelling on thisparticular occasion. Sitting alongsideher was a housewife with three youngchildren who were suffering fromsevere head colds and werecontinuously sniffling and coughing.On a seat opposite was a stoutmiddle-aged man who seemed to behaving ongoing problems withflatulence. Seated on her left was anamorous well-intoxicated gentlemanwho kept on making unwantedadvances, on one occasion gropingher with his hand “above the garter”.

The air within the carriage becameincreasingly stifling yet the womanwith the three children forbadeanybody to open a window.

According to her complaint, "what

was intended as a pleasure trip turnedinto one of torture".

With the coming of tarmacadamedroads more and more motorcars madetheir appearance. There were ModelT’s, also known as "Tin Lizzies", andMorris and Austen 10s – today’svintage models now viewed withamazement when seen on display atannual heritage venues.

In the late 1920s and early 30smore people started to use motorisedtransport as a means of getting aroundcomfortably and efficiently,especially on longer journeys. It wasinvaluable during times ofbereavement when grieving relativescould tuck themselves in comfortablyat funeral time, especially ininclement weather.

In Ballymote, Tom Scully ofO’Connell Street had just taken overhis father’s horse-drawn transport andundertaking business. He bought anew motorcar for hire but soondiscovered he needed two or three tokeep ahead of customers’ demands.He then purchased a motor hearse forhis undertaking business.

A number of young mentrained and acquired theskills enabling them tobecome motorcar drivers.Many of them later becamechauffeurs replacing thejarvies who by this time werebecoming redundant. Somebecame well known for theircourteous and friendlymanner when dealing withmembers of the public.

Brian Murtagh, who camefrom the Carrigans area andwas employed at Scully’s,endeared himself to manypeople especially duringtimes of bereavement. Hehad a wonderful method forcomforting and consoling thenext of kin when he arrivedat houses to organise andcarry out funeralarrangements, and again ashe drove them to and fromfunerals.

The outbreak of WorldWar II in 1939 brought aboutsevere curtailment in petrolsupplies, resulting inrationing regulations being

put in place. This in turn resulted inpartial stagnation taking place in theentire transport system. Many oldhorse-drawn vehicles were revampedand restored and put back on the roadagain.

When the war ended and suppliesbegan to flow freely again, more andmore taximen were to be seen plyingtheir trade. In Ballymote familiarnames like Perry, Murtagh, Kielty,Hunt, Hannon, Begley, and later onDoddy, established a transportnetwork that by and large continuesto the present day.

In 1954 Paddy Lavin of Killavilbought a new Hillman Minx at a costof £550 and immediately went intothe taxi business, establishing hismain base of activity in Ballymote. Itwas a brave adventure for a youngfellow in his early twenties, but thiswas a time when things werebeginning to pick up after thedepressing war years. The touristtrade was just starting to expand and,besides, most people living in countryareas did not as yet own cars and so

First Cars inBallymote

According to information suppliedby Jim Kielty, O’Connell St,Ballymote, the first three cars inBallymote at the start of the lastcentury belonged to (1) Dr PatO’Harte, (2) Frank McDonagh,O’Connell St, and (3) JamesKielty, O’Connell St (1916). Paddy Lavin standing alongside his second

Hillman taxi, late 1950s.

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were dependant on men like him totake them on essential journeys. Itwas the sort of environment wherethe young taximan found himselfgetting plenty to do with his new cab.

In the years that followed he andhis taxi became a familiar link in thelocal transport system. Almost dailyhe could be seen collecting and takingclients to and from the country’sairports, chief towns and cities.Tourists visiting the country andlooking out for who was reliable andpunctual would be apt to enquire for"taximan Lavin".

Totally cut out for his job, he was abrilliant conversationalist with a vastknowledge of the countryside. At alltime he kept his taxi spotlessly clean.Curious onlookers observing his zestfor cleanliness and good taste wouldoften refer to him as "the shiner".

Paddy Lavin passed away inDecember 1999. Overseas visitorsreturning here in the years thatfollowed received the news of hisdeath with disbelief. Many of themcould not come to terms with thereality that their favourite taximanwas no longer available to take themaround.

Much of the information containedin the opening pages of this articlewas given to me by my late fatherMichael Duffy who died in 1979 atthe age of 93. His grandmotherBridget McDermott, nee Coen,remembered the days of Bianconi’scoaches. She also had vivid memoriesof times when an endless trickle ofbackpackers used to pass by on an oldpassageway called "the boheen" thatwas situated close-by to her home.

This old pathway was one of twothat linked the Killavil road toSpurtown. People travelling alongthis route had to cross the local riverat a shallow ford where stepping-stones were laid down and this placewas called the Clochán.

People using a quiet wee donkey toconvey their goods used to be called"cuddy-backpackers".

While many used wickerworkcreels to carry their goods, othersslung their belongings across the

animal’s back using two old sackstied at their mouths with a piece ofrope. This attachment was called an"ireas"

Many householders carried theirprovisions with haversacks placed ontheir backs.

Journey-salesmen using the routeusually carried their wares inrucksacks. They used to be referred aspedlars and their luggage was a"pedlar’s pack". Tinsmiths toing andfroing along the passageway wouldeach carry around his tin and hisworking instruments in a woodentoolkit on his back. This was called a"tinker’s budget".

This was the usual way of life formany people in remote areas at thattime. Many did not have a properroadway leading to their home.

Mules and jennets were also usedto convey goods. These animals wereoften more difficult to handle thandonkeys and some could be cross andeasily agitated. Today they are indanger: nobody seems to breed themanymore. Even back in those daysthere was a belief among countrypeople that it was unlucky to breedthem. Many young people of todayhave probably never seen one or evenheard of their existence.

Many changes have taken placeduring my own lifetime. In the late1930s I had my first jaunt in an oldBaby Ford owned by our local priest,Fr Carney C.C. Nowadays I look

upon old vintage cars with a gooddeal of nostalgia, knowing that in myyoung days their proud owners weredriving them around on our country’sroads.

In the 1920s a young Killavil mannamed Mark Cunningham becamethe proud owner of a Ford Model T.There were few cars around then, sowhen he passed by on the roadwaypeople by their firesides wouldremark "there goes Markeen and hisTin Lizzie". There was also a rhymein circulation then:

Henry Ford he made a wee carOut of rubber, metal and twine.It had no silencer, none at all,It roared out like a lion.

Just a few years before this time, localpoet Martin Brennan penned theselines after stopping to look back at thevolume of progress that had takenplace in his country during theprevious half-century:

If fifty years has brought suchchange

One cannot imagine howThe world wide will wag at allFifty years from now.

NOTE: A jennet was the offspring ofa male pony and a female donkey. Amule on the other hand was theproduct of a female pony and a maledonkey.

The Very First Model T. –Supplied by PJ Duffy

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Glaisne Ó Cuilleanáin – LastAbbot of St Mary’s CistercianAbbey, BoyleFrank Tivnan

GLAISNE Ó CUILLEANÁIN wasborn in 1554 at Mullach na Sí,Ballyshannon, Co Donegal. The ÓCuilleanáins came originally from theprovince of Munster and CormacMac Cuilleanáin, the bishop-king ofCashel, featured among theirancestors.

Glaisne’s father, Donnchadh ÓCuilleanáin, was a great friend of theO’Donnell chiefs of Donegal.Donnchadh married Iníon Dhubh NíDhuibhir. They had seven children,six sons and one daughter, Glaisnebeing the eldest. Five of his brothersbecame priests, four of themCistercians.

Glaisne received his earlyeducation from perhaps the monks ofthe nearby Assarore CistercianAbbey. Later he studied at the famousuniversity of Leuven in Belgium, andlater still at the Sorbonne, the Parisuniversity founded by Robert deSorbon in 1253. Here he obtained adoctorate.

Soon after he entered theCistercian Order. Owing to hiserudition, virtue and courage he wasappointed Abbot of St Mary’sCistercian Abbey in Boyle, CoRoscommon. At that time RobertCusack of Gerrardstown, Co Meath,had taken possession of themonastery and its lands. However,after a few gentle reprimands givenby the new Abbot, Cusack allowedthe monks to use the Abbey again.

In 1580 Glaisne went on a shortvisit to Dublin. Here he was arrestedby order of the government and,together with Eoin Ó Maolchiaráin,Abbot of the Premonstratensianmonastery of the Holy Trinity in LochCé, imprisoned in the public gaol.

In gaol they were carefullyinterrogated by Dean John Garvey ofChristchurch and his team. They were

promised "the sun, moon and stars" ifthey would abandon their Catholicfaith. Glaisne’s answer was "thebenefices you offer me are veryvaluable in truth, but how long willyou allow me to enjoy them?" "Aslong as you live" they answered, "wecannot determine the end of your lifeor prolong it, nor do we know the dayof your death". "Well then", hereplied, "is it not much wiser for meto obey Him and to keep His law, whocan, if He pleases, prolong my lifeand give me a life of eternalhappiness in the world to come, thanto obey you who cannot lengthen mylife by one instant and who arestriving by your deceitful andperishable gifts to lead me away fromthe laws of heaven?"

The interrogators were furious atthis answer and ordered his fingers,arms and legs to be crushed by blowsof a hammer. When they could notbreak his courage, they ordered himand Eoin Ó Maolchiaráin to behanged. The Abbot asked theexecutioners that Eoin should sufferdeath first, as he showed some fearand wept. The request was granted.Glaisne was then put to death andsuffered fearlessly and courageously.On his way up to the scaffold, aboutfive hundred were converted to theCatholic faith by the sight of hisconstancy.

The execution of these two mentook place on November 21st, 1584,in St Stephen’s Green, Dublin. TheSpanish historiographer of theCistercian Order, Juan Henriquez, inhis Menologium Cisterciense,describes Glaisne as "OrdinisCisterciencis decor, saeculi nostrisplendor, totius Hiberniae Gloria"(the ornament of the Cistercian Order,the light of our century, the glory ofall Ireland).

Glaisne held his rosary beads in hishands during his last moments alive.This beautiful amber rosary beads isnow preserved in the CistercianMonastery of St Joseph, Roscrea, CoTipperary. It came from theDominican Abbey of Our Lady ofAtocha, Madrid.

The work for the beatification ofthe Irish martyrs – Group 2 is nowcomplete. Included among them isGelasius (Glaisne) Ó Cuilleanáin. Allthat now remains is for Pope BenedictXVI to sign the decree of martyrdom.

If you wish, you may pray for hisbeatification: "Almighty God andFather, may your servant Glaisne whosuffered torture and death for yoursake and now reigns with You inglory, obtain for us perseverance isdoing your will. Grant that his namemay be soon enrolled with those ofyour saints in heaven. We ask thisthrough Christ our risen Lord".

I wish to acknowledge with gratitudethe help given me by Dom Ciarán ÓSabhais and Dom Flannan Hogan ofMount St Joseph’s, Roscrea, in thepreparation of this article.

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Change ofLecture

AT THE 2004 Heritage Weekend,the 20th Anniversary Lecture wasnot, as advertised, on thearchaeological excavations atDrumcliffe Monastic Site. Insteadit was entitled "Banada, Skreenand Carrowmore: the Legacies ofIrwin, Diamond and Walker" andwas given by Martin A Timoneyand Mary B Timoney.

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Bog Gazingwith Marie Finlay

The world is too much with us,late and soon

Getting and spending we laywaste our powers

Little we see in nature that is oursWe have given our hearts away, a

sordid boon.(W. Wordsworth)

The poet, Patrick Kavanagh wrote:Beautiful, beautiful God, Breathing His love in a cutaway

bog.Kavanagh was evidently inspired byand sensitively attuned to the bogs.

IN THE PAST bogs were largelyassociated with a lifestyle of hardshipand poverty. In the decades before thefamine, population growth in Irelandgave rise to increased demand forland. Many families were forced bynecessity to eke out an existence onmountains and boglands. Thisenforced way of life led to them beinglabelled 'bogtrotters', a slang andderogatory term. They wereportrayed as comic, burlesque figuresby some observers. The resiliencewhich they displayed in the face ofthe harsh reality of their existenceheld little significance for theirdetractors.

Since the 1900s a gradual changein people's attitude towardswilderness areas is occurring. Now itis becoming fashionable to visit boglands as a leisure activity. As the wagsays … some of us have seen bothdays.

Many factors have contributed tobring about this change; these includea growing disenchantment withovercrowding and rising crime levelsin our towns and cities, moreaffluence and resulting leisure time,availability of books on nature andwildlife films on television.

An appreciation of our naturalheritage by overseas visitors toIreland has a very significant impacton the way we view our landscape.They now know the value of thetreasure they have lost in their

respective home countries. InHolland, for example, bogs have longsince disappeared, and the Dutch arenow turning to Ireland to invest inbog conservation.

In Scotland vast amounts of treesare to be felled in a project to restoretheir peat boglands. Ireland is amongthe last countries in Europe where asizeable amount of peat lands stillexist in their natural state.

An enquiry by a Chilean visitor toIreland:- What is a bog? followed byWhat is peat? is it animal, vegetable,mineral? prompted my quest to seekfuller knowledge on this topic. Thissearch drew me into a fascinating andmost rewarding discovery of theunique habitat we call bog lands.Hours of reading, watching videosand participating in a weekendeducational course run by the IrishPeatland Conservation Councilbrought me to a new appreciation ofour bogland resources.

WHAT IS BOG?An answer to the Chilean query is

a good place to start: a bog is an areaof land that is covered by peat or turf.Peat is a soil made up of the deadremains of plants that have amassedover thousands of years. It is

brownish/black in colour, withapproximately 95% water content.Wet climate and poor drainagesystems promote the growth anddevelopment of bogs.

12,000 years ago Ireland wascovered by ice. Climatic conditionsbecame warmer at the 10,000 yearstage and the ice began to melt. Peatcommenced its formation around thistime.

Peat forms in layers, the pale upperlayers consist of remains of plants,herbs and mosses that died and rottedin the shallow acid water. All werecompressed by the weight of waterand other plants to form peat.Peatlands once covered about 17% ofthe surface of Ireland.

There are two main types of bogsin Ireland:- blanket bogs and raisedbogs.

High rainfall is essential for theformation of each. Raised Bogsrequire 800- 900 mm of rainfall peryear, compared to the blanket bogrequirement of 1200 mm during morethan 250 days per annum.

Blanket Bogs as the name suggestsare spread over large areas of land.These subdivide into mountainblanket bog usually above the 200metre level, and lower lying blanket

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Matchstick Lichen

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bog under the 200 metre contour line.Blanket bogs occur, but notexclusively, in the western countiesof Ireland.

Raised Bogs form in lakes unlikethe blanket bogs which form on land.They occur in midland counties.Sphagnum moss is a crucialingredient in their formation.Sphagnum soaks up water as it growsand holds 16-20 times its own dryweight in water content. There aremore than 350 species of sphagnummoss world wide and up to 40different species recognised inEurope. It is soft and spongy and hasno true roots but draws water throughits stems and leaves. The groundcolours of the moss form a delightfultapestry: yellow, green, brown and arich red depending on the exposureand acidity of the water.

Bogland surfaces consist ofhummocks and hollows and channelswhich require skill and caution innavigating on foot. The advantage ofthis uneven ground is that it slowsdown the walkers and focuses theirattention on the sheer magic of thebogs. Colourful flowers, mosses, wildbirds, mammals and insects allclamour for attention.

BOG PLANTSInsectivorous plants include the

Sundew, Butterwort andBladderwort, all of which trapinsects to get vital nutrients forsurvival. The Sundew (DruchtínMóna) is a very small plant with spoon shaped leaves that are covered

with tiny hairs. Each hair has a dropof sticky liquid. The sun sparkles onthe drop and attracts insects whichland on its leaves and are trapped.

The Butterwort (Bodán Meascáin)with its sticky leaves traps insects inmuch the same way as the Sundewdoes. Its leaves are yellow-green andits flower is purple.

The Bladderwort (Lus anBhotraigh Beag) has leaves whichbear tiny bladders that trap smallwater animals. Its leaves are root-likeand under water. Its flowers are smalland yellow in colour.

Other bogland plants includeCross-leaved Heath (FraochNaoscai) with its pink bell-shapedflowers, Ling Heather (Fraoch

Coiteann), Bilberry (VacciniumMyrtillus) which grows in abundancein boglands, ripening in late July andits gathering being celebrated on thelast Sunday in July (called BilberrySunday), Cranberry (Mónóg), BogCotton (Ceannbhán), with single-headed and many-headed varieties,and Bog Bean (Bachran) - this isfound in bog pools, it looks like anoutsized shamrock, and has pink andwhite feathery flowers which bloomin summer.

Another delightful plant is the BogAsphodel (Sciollam na Móna) whichhas delicate yellow star-shapedflowers. Cladonia Lichen (Leicean)is a very attractive matchstick lichenwhich grows in clusters on the baresoil.

BIRDS, ANIMALS, INSECTSSome interesting birds which feed

in bog lands include the Curlew(Crotach) whose plaintive cry is quitedistinctive, the Snipe (Naoscach)whose long bill enables it to findworms and insects, and the Heron(Corr Éisc), a very tall wading birdwith long legs and long neck, gazing

and waiting to scoop up insects andfrogs in bog pools.

The song of the Skylark iscommonly heard in the bogs duringthe summertime.

Animals likely to be encounteredin the bogs are the Hare (Giora), theFox (Sionnach) and the less visibleOtter (Madra Uisce). The Haregrazes on bog plants. The Fox huntsfor beetles and frogs or whatever hecan lay his paws on. The Otter, morecommonly known as the Water Dog,feeds on eels, frogs and fish.

Bugs and Insects common to bogpools are the Whirligig Beetle(Táilliuir) which devours tiny insectson the surface of the water, the WaterBoatman (Bádóir) - interesting to seeit swim on its back under water, theGreat Diving Beetle (Tumadóir Mór)- one of the largest insect predators inbog pools, the Pond Skater (ScinnireLocháin) - fascinating to observe asthey hastily skim the surface of thebog pools, and the Dragon Fly(Snáthaid mhór) - a delight to watch.

Butterflies and Moths also feedon bog plants. The best way todistinguish the moth from the

Heron

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butterfly is by their antennae.Butterfly antennae are always clubshaped, the moth's never. The moth'santennae may be feathery, andpointed or blunted at the ends butnever club shaped.

BOG PLANTS AS HERBALREMEDIES

Like the insects being sucked in bythe insectivore plants, I too gotcaught up in the medical properties ofsome bog plants.

The Sundew (Droserarotundifolia). This plant can be usedto advantage in the treatment ofbronchitis, persistent coughs,whooping cough and asthma etc. Itsjuice is reputed to take away cornsand warts. In America it has beenfavoured as a cure for old age andused for cases of arteriosclerosis(hardening of the arteries).

The Bog-Bean (Menyanthestrifoliata) is reputed to be valuable asa remedy against the dreaded sailordisease - scurvy. It is considereduseful in treating rheumatism andskin diseases. In powder form itsleaves act as a purgative.

White Waterlilly (Nymphae Alba):its dried roots are used in heart tonicsand can stimulate liver and spleenfunctions.

Meadowsweet can be effective asan infusion to treat colds, influenzaand headache.

The Great Reed Mace Cat’s Tail(Typha Latifolia): its young roots(ideally collected in early spring)boiled in salted water and quicklyfried in olive oil are very tasty indeed.(N.B. It is inadvisable to use folkremedies without expertsupervision!!!!!!!!)

Spliognum Moss (SphagnumCymbifolium) forms in bogs inclumps, vivid green in colour. Withits property of being highlyabsorbent, it was used as a surgicaldressing of wounds during wars. Itwas used in Germany for thirty years.A Gaelic record of 1014 states thatthe wounded in the battle of Clontarf‘stuffed their wounds with moss’.Stricken deer are known to drag theirwounded bodies to beds of SphagnumMoss. A two ounce dressing ofprepared sterilized moss absorbs upto two pounds of moisture, more thantwice as much as cotton wool.

It is written that in Laplandmatrons are well acquainted with thismoss. They dry it and lay it in theirchildren's cradles to supply the placeof mattress, bolster and everycovering, and being changed nightand morning, it keeps the infantremarkably clean, dry and warm.

Sphagnum Moss was also usedduring the war in conjunction withGarlic (an antiseptic of high repute)thus saving thousands of lives. Somepeople hold the view that peatcontains biostimulators that couldcure diseases that currently seemincurable.

Many other aspects of bog landsinclude structures of archaeologicalinterest discovered under the peat andartefacts including objects of goldand bronze, jewellery, weapons andhuman remains in a good state ofpreservation. Poets, painters, writers,sculptors and many others continue tobe inspired by bog landscape.

As a lady remarked to me after atrip to the bog "there's more to thebog than cutting the turf". What alovely succinct understatement!

A harvest of turf

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Some Recorded Old Place-namesof CastledarganPat O’Brien

CASTLEDARGAN is the centraltownland of three that form thenorthern boundary of the old civilparish of Kilross in the barony ofTirerrill, Co. Sligo and is situated tothe northeast of Ballygawleycrossroads. It contains 978.1 acres,the largest townland in that parish,claiming 25% of the old civil parishlands. It stretches southwards 2.8 kmfrom the crest of Sliabh Daeane tojust south of the Collooney toDromahaire road and isapproximately 1km in width at itswidest. At the final sale of Ormsbylands in 1883, it was described ashaving 669.4 acres of mountaingiving ‘very fair grazing in thesummer months’ and 227 acres of theremainder being ‘good arable’ ondrumlin hills. Lough Dargan, close toits southeast end, feeds a streamflowing westwards through its lowestlands. Having been tilled and grazedfor generations, 165 acres of thatarable land is now being developed asa golf and country club.

In common with many other partsof the country, the place-nameinventory of Castledargan has beenpractically emptied. Of its manyplace-names, two survive officiallyon O.S. maps; the townland nameitself and Cloghbrack. Some place-names survive in conversation withever-diminishing frequency and someolder recorded names have beenunearthed, which this essay will try toplace geographically (see map) andexplain their derivation.

Possibly, in a bid to impose hisinfluence on his MacDonoghnephews, Conor MacDonogh ofCollooney built a tower house andbawn at Cashelloghdergan in 1422,destroyed their crops and banishedthem. The Four Masters tell us, thathaving sought the help of O’Neillsand O’Donnells, the nephews andtheir allies laid waste to Carbury,Corran and Tirerrill and rested atCashelloghdergan, the allies

returning north through Breifne. Acentury later in 1516, O’Donnelldestroyed Sligo castle, laid waste toTirerrill and took Caiseal LochaDeargain among others, placinggarrisons, taking prisoners.

Cashelloghdergan has beenvariously spelt, but most variationshave the three element of caiseal,loch and Deargán, giving us theCashel of (the) Lake of Deargán. It isclaimed that a cashel, or stone-builtringfort, existed on the site prior tothe castle’s construction.

As part of the process of surrenderand re-grant in 1585, theCompossicion Book of Conoughtrecords that one of the divisions ofthe MacDonoghs of Tirerrill was thatof Domhnall Cam of Tullamoyle

(Tullybeg) and Cashelloghdergan.Four Elizabethan pardons between1587 and 1590 were for inhabitants ofCastle(Cashel)loghdargan. InFebruary 1607, Margareta nyDonoghe alias Heallye ofCarrowekyll, Co. Sligo, and herbrothers granted to William Taaffe,knight, ‘all the castle, town and landsof Castleloghdargane’. The namecontinued in use into the 1630s whenthe Strafford Survey of Sligo recordedthat the neighboring townland ofArnasbrack ‘claims the ould castlecalled Castleloghdargan’. In severalpost-Cromwellian grants the namewould seem to have been associatedwith the castle rather than thetownland, while the lands were calledby alternative names. In the Down

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Survey of 1659, Thomas Crofton isrecorded as the titulado of Kilrossparish, residing at Castlelochderganand according to the Patent Rolls ofCharles II, the castle ofCastleloughdargan had been latelysold by William, Earl of Strafford andThomas Radcliffe to Richard Coote,Baron of Collooney. Among thoseattainted by the Parliament of JamesII in 1689 was Stephen Ormsby ‘ofCastleloughdargan’. Its latest use wasthat of the 1770s when CharlesO’Hara of Nymphsfield(Annaghmore) listed the townland of‘Castleloghdurgan’ in his Survey ofthe economic development of CountySligo.

The earliest record found of theform, Castledargan, is that of thewill of Stephen Ormsby ofCastledargan in 1702. Subsequently adeed of 20 June 1713 records thatSarah Ormsby of Castledargan,widow, took out a lease on the landsof Doonally from Benjamin Burton ofDublin. The name is clearly originallyCaisleán Locha Deargáin, the castleof the lake of Deargán, latershortened to Caisleán Deargáin.

Of the alternative place-names orsub-denominations of Castledargan,that of Drumnascullagh is theearliest found to-date. In the grant ofland by Margareta ny Donoghe toWilliam Taaffe in 1607, Dromaskellyis given as a sub-division ofCastleloghdergane. It is described inthe Strafford Survey as having ‘veryfine sheep ground and good for corn… good meddowe … very goodbleak land’, a description notdissimilar to that of the south end ofthe townland. Following theCromwellian Wars, the Book ofSurvey and Distribution records that‘one cartron of ye Quarter ofDunneskelly’ had been transferredfrom Carnan McDonnogh to RichardCoote, Lord Collooney and that the‘Quarter of Dromnesgoell’ remainedwith John Crofton. Drumneskelly islater recorded in deeds of 1716 and1724. In the following century, themarriage settlement of Amy Jones toNicholson Ormsby of Castledargan in1843 and the Landed Estates Courtsale notices of Castledargan in 1875mention Drumnascullagh.

Drumnascullagh, in its earliest

form of Dromaskelly, would suggestDroim na Scoile, the ridge of theschool; in 16-17th century sources‘oi’ is commonly rendered ‘e’, as inKell for Coill. There may well havebeen some type of school – eitherbardic or a more humble one – on thesite in the 16th century for which norecord has survived.

Cloghbrack is now a place-nameonly in the west of Castledargan.When first recorded as ‘Cloragh’ inthe Strafford Survey, if indeed it is thesame name, it had ‘some good arrableland & very good land for sheepe, …some litle shrubs for shelter, goodturffe, great scope of mounteyne, …parts of the aforesaid Logh’ (LoughDargan). The survey also tells us thatwithin Cloghbrack there were twosub-denominations, Tourehowen andTowerany (see below). Thedescriptions of all three imply that thegreater Cloghbrack encompassed,more than likely, all the land adjacentto and north of the stream that drainsLough Dargan and rising northwardsonto the slopes of Slieve Daeane. Thecurrent townland of Killeenduff,which cuts westward from the lakeinto Castledargan, is not listed in theStrafford Survey.

Cloghbrack is not listed again untilDr. Synge’s 1749 Census of thediocese of Elphin, when sixhouseholders were listed, fivefarmers and a weaver. In the 1770sCharles O’Hara’s survey of Co. Sligorefers to Clogragh. And, in theLanded Estates Court sales notices of1875 one of the five sub-denominations is calledCloughabracka; some fields on the

north side of the Mountainfoot Roadwere locally known as ‘theCloghabrackas’.

The name suggests Cloch Bhreacor Clocha Breaca, the speckledstone(s). In the singular, ClochBhreac could also denote a speckledstone structure, especially a castle.The name calls to mind the cursingstones, clocha breaca, of Inishmurrayor those of nearby Ballysumaghan.Did a similar power reside in thisplace of the clocha breaca?Cloghbrack, as described in theStrafford Survey, incorporatedKilleenduff, Cillín Dubh, the blacklittle church, about which we have noknown church history and is also notmuch more than 0.5km from the earlyChristian site of Killerin inBallydawley with its Cloch anEaspaig (the bishop’s stone) and the‘healing stone’ that rests upon itoccasionally. More simply still, thename might just refer to a notablepresence of speckled gneiss bouldersin those parts of Sliabh Daeane.

Apart from Drumnascullia andCloghbrack, the earliest alternativeplace-name was that ofTowrehownein, a ‘parcel of theestate of Melaughlin Roe McDonagh,slain in battle’ which, according to thePatent Rolls of James I, was grantedto John Baxter c1614 for servicesrendered. Tourehowen, was describedin the Strafford Survey as – of theQuarter of Cloragh (Cloghbrack),with ‘arrable lande and grassingground together with mountaineproportionable’, a description thatsuggests a location on the northernsector of the Castledargan lands.

Castledargan and Sliabh Daeane from Drumnascullagh

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According to the Hearth MoneyRolls of 1662 Daniel Carvill ofTowlehowne had a taxable hearth inhis house. In a draft of a letter ofMarch 1663 to the Lord Lieutenant,Charles II directed that he passseveral of the lands of BryanMacDonagh of Collooney to RichardLord Coote of Collooney, amongthem the combined half quarter ofDrumneskella and Tonelehowen.Following the Cromwellianconfiscations, John Crofton wasconfirmed as the owner ofTonerahowen according to the Bookof Survey and Distribution of the1680s. Finally in June 1749 JamesCrofton farm-let, among others, thehalf-quarter of Tourehowen toWilliam Ormsby of Castledargan forthree lives. No later records havebeen found for this place-name, nor isit known locally. A Lugnahowna, onthe mountainside of Castledargan,has been pointed out by PádraicCollery of Killeenduff.

The variants of the name mightsuggest that the name is derived fromtuar na h-aibhnín or tuar na h-abhann, the field of the (little) river.However, considering its descriptionin the Strafford Survey and a possiblelocation close to the stream/riverwhich drains Lough Dargan, thename Tóin re hAbhainn, meaning apiece of low ground facing, orbacking on to, a river, seems the moreplausible. The Strafford Survey recorded that a

further quarter-part of the Quarter ofCloghbrack was that of Towerany, theinheritance of John GranaMacDonnogh. It was described ashaving ‘a small Irish mill uppon it …small shrubs for shelter, good turffe,one days mowing of good meddow,little arable land, … a good scope ofmountain’ which suggests that itstretched from the stream that drainedLough Dargan into the mountains. Itsname, Tuar Eanaigh, cattlefield/pasture of (the) marsh/wetland,would also support a partial locationin some wetland parts ofCastledargan, possibly the landstretching from west of the lake andnorthwards into Sliabh Daeane.

Drumnamackin was a place-namethat has appeared twice only inrecords seen to-date. In the Book of

Survey and Distribution, JohnCrofton’s ownership confirmed, theland having belonged to him in 1641.Its second and last mention was inJune 1749 when James Crofton ofLongford House farm-let to Williamthe cartron of Drumnamakin ‘calledcommonly ye name of Castledargan’.Having tentatively placedDrumnascullia, Cloghbrack,Tourehowen and Toweraney andeliminating the ridge on whichCastleloghdargan is built (seeDrumnacushlane below), everythingsuggests that Drumnamackin is theridge on which Castle Dargan Houseitself is built.

Drumnamackin may be derivedfrom Droim na Meacan, the ridge ofthe tap-roots; meacan being acommon element of the Irish form ofthe words for carrot, parsnip, turnip,radish, comfrey and many wild plantthat have tap roots.

In the sale of the Ormsby lands byThe Landed Estates Court in 1875,one of the sub-denominations ofCastledargan was that ofDrumnacushlane and previously,when John Crofton was confirmed inhis lands almost 200 years earlier, hehad ownership of Dromcashell, landsthen associated with Drumnamackinand Tourehowen. Its name, Droim anChaisleáin or Droim (an) Chaisil, theridge of the castle or cashel, suggeststhat it was the ridge close to thesoutheast corner of Castledargan onwhich the castle had been built. It islikely that it was named Droim (an)Chaisil because of the existence of anearlier cashel or stone fort and

subsequently Droim an Chaisleáinwhen the late medieval castle wasbuilt. Local knowledge, however,places it on the ridge between CastleDargan House and the castle.

Two additional place-names appearon the 1875 Landed Estates Courtsales documents - Priestown andCulleenroach. No other records havebeen found for them and they werenever subsequently used.

Priestown is recorded in no othersource and is unknown today. It maybe an anglicized form of Baile antSagairt, which might have denotedan association with or the ownershipof some land by a priest at any timefrom a late medieval period onwards.Records of penal times do not suggestany priests living openly in thetownland, though two priestsadministered to the parish of Kilrossin 1668 and 1683 and in 1712 a BryanHiggin was reported to have saidMass at a house in Doonamurray, thetownland immediately to the south ofCastledargan.

The location of Culleenroach,speculatively Coillín an Róistigh,Roche’s little wood, is unknown. Noris there a known record of theNorman surname Roche in the parish,though Norman incursions into Sligofrom Mayo were not unknown. In1249 Mac Feorais (Bermingham)came into Lower Connacht as far asSligo Castle, was ambushed byFeidhlim O Conor and several youngNorman knights killed, their bodiesbeing buried in Ballysadare. In 1304the sons of Domhnall O Conor ofCarbery, who were under threat from

Cashellodargan "Gate" Tower, Bawn Wall and Tower House

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several quarters, together with theirallies, the MacDonnchada, werefollowed by the Galls (Anglo-Normans) of Leyney and Tireraghonto the slopes of Sliabh Daeane. TheO Conors and MacDonnchadha,turning on them, routed and pursuedthem to Ballysadare, killed ThomasMacWalter (Burke), his brother andmany unnamed followers. Therecould have been Róistigh amongthem or among other such Normanraiders. According to Owen Jim Kellyof Cloghbrack, there is a area to theeast of the new Ballygawley GroupWater Scheme pump-house andCartystown (see below), known as‘The Rootshuck’ (the author’sspelling), which sounds very similarto Roitsi or Roidseach, Irish versionsof Roche used in the Annals ofConnacht and of the Four Masters.Was a Roitseach killed and buried onthe slopes of Sliabh Daeane and isthis Rootshuck the last vestige ofCoillín an Róitsi? Then again, afterall that, ‘Rootshuck’ may be simplyRuaiteach, the red place, so namedfor the red mineral colouring of thesoil or the water, as happens in someplaces.

Legnenerunagh is recorded in onesource only and is being tenuouslyassociated with Castledargan becauseof its recorded sequence followingthe population records forCastledargan and Cloghbrack in the1749 Census of Elphin. A review ofits household family names does notconnect with any other later cluster offamily names which might provide itspossible location. Assuming Log anOirchinnigh, the hollow of theerenach, it might be possible to placeit close to either of two church sites.The retrieval of quern-stones inKilross graveyard suggests theexistence of an earlier monasticsettlement there. Did it have anunrecorded erenach family? Or, werethere unrecorded erenachs at the earlyChristian site of Killerin, just 0.5kmto the west of Castledargan? No localknowledge of Legnenerunagh exists.As previously adverted to, aLugnahowna is known, situated inCastledargan townland which mightbe an extreme corruption of theformer name.

There is also an area of deep bog

between Slieve Dargan and SlieveDaeane on which turf was saved untilrelatively recent times and known asLuggayairig (the author’s phoneticspelling). Considering theinhospitable nature of the location,the name is unlikely to be a corruptedversion of the inhabitedLegnenerunagh.

No written record of Cartystownhas been found to-date, though itsused locally in conversation. It isidentified with a cluster of ruinedhouses located east of the earlierBallygawley Group Water Schemereservoir and obviously named afterCarty families with deep roots. In1662 Rory O Carhey of Killeenduffwas recorded as having to pay HearthMoney Tax; in 1749 William andHugh Carthy had households inCastledargan; and in the 1850sGriffith Valuation, Catherine andWilliam Carty farmed a notinconsiderable twenty acres in what isknown as Cartystown. From them aredescended several of the modern dayCarty families of the parish.

There are many other local namesassociated with the mountain whichwill have to await another occasion;Luggayairig, Pollnadrenshy, Sliabhna mBan, Boley Hill, Cruck Hill,Luggathomish, Ben Lár, Ben Hool,Ben Garbh and possibly more.

No doubt there are many dis-usedor about-to-be-lost place-names in theparishes and townlands of Sligo.They should be recorded or, if rarelyused and in danger of being lost,incorporated in appropriate house orhousing development names.Unfortunately, with the fashion forDowns, Dales, Manors, Lawns andall that goes with them, the newhouse, SUV and all, inDrumnascullagh does not scan well.Like our vernacular ruralarchitecture, such names are not thefashion of the day. To their credit, theresidents of a new housingdevelopment in Riverstown haveincorporated the now officiallydefunct townland name of Urlar intotheir estate name of Lisurlar.

NOTE: Following its purchase ofCastledargan in 1883, the Hosiefamily continued to use several ofthese place-names, in addition toothers of their own devising, to define

fields for planning purposes and stockrecords. Thus, Old Castle field, OldCastle Rock, Fahey’s Garden, OldHaggard field, South Railway field,North Railway field, Drumnasculla,Drumnacushlown, Calf Park, HallDoor field (including Carty’s corner),Cloughabrock, Pound field andCarrigeenboy (inside the demesnewalls), which is in fact a separatetownland. Another list has thefollowing variations; Quin’s Ground,Isolation field, Cloghbrack Haggardand Bell field. Unfortunately, thesemay now be lost as a result of re-development and the landscaping ofmany of the distinguishing features ofthe remaining demesne. –––––––– My thanks to Nollaig Ó Muraíle, NUIGalway, for his advice on thederivation of several Gaelic place-names, to Pádraic Collery and OwenJim Kelly for being generous withtheir knowledge and Mrs KathleenHosie, late of Castle Dargan House.

BibliographyBeirne, Francis (ed.), The Diocese of Elphin,People, Places and Pilgrimage (Dublin,2000)Book of Survey and Distribution, VolumeXIV, Folios 76-168Burke, W.P., The Irish priests in the PenalTimes, 1660 – 1760 (Waterford 1914)Census of the Diocese of Elphin, NAI, M2466(SCL)Freeman, A. Martin (ed.), The Annals ofConnacht, (Dublin, 1970) Freeman, A. Martin (ed.), CompossicionBooke of Conought, (Dublin, 1936) Gray, Edward Stewart, Pedigrees of Co. SligoFamilies – No. IMcLysaght, E., Seventeenth century HearthMoney Rolls with full transcript for CountySligoNicholls, Kenneth (ed.), The Irish Fiants ofthe Tudor Sovereigns (Dublin, 1994), 4volumesNicholls, K.W. Lynch Blosse Papers, inAnalecta Hibernica, Vol. 29, 161O’Donovan, John (ed.), Annals of theKingdom of Ireland by the Four Masters,(Dublin, 1851)O’Hara, Charles, Survey of the economicdevelopment of County Sligo in the eighteenthcentury, PRONI T.2812/19/1Pender, Seamus (ed.), A Census of Irelandc.1659 (Dublin,1939)Pentland Mahaffy, Robert (ed), Calendar ofState Papers of Ireland 1663-1665, (London,1907)Registry of Deeds, Henrietta Place, Dublin Strafford Survey of County Sligo, transcript,NLI Ms. 2166 The Sligo Champion, 16 January 1883The Sligo Independent, 15 September, 1883Vicars, Sir Arthur (ed), Index of thePrerogative Wills of Ireland, 1536-1810,(Dublin, 1893)Wood-Martin W.G., History of Sligo, Countyand Town (Dublin, 1882), 3 volumes

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Sligo NFA/IFA Golden JubileeDeclan Lavin

THE SLIGO EXECUTIVE of theIrish Farmers Association celebratesits golden jubilee this year, 2005.

In January a banquet was held inthe Southern Hotel, Sligo, at which abook remembering fifty years of IFAin Sligo was launched by MichaelMorley, secretary of Connacht GoldCo-operative Society. After thesuccess of the January banquet andbook launch, Chairperson TheresaGilligan is looking forward to othermajor events in Sligo in the Autumn.

Sligo Executive of the IFA haseighteen branches throughout theCounty. These branches nominate andelect members to attend the countyexecutive monthly meetings andrepresent the members of the branch.The branch also elects the nationalpresident and deputy president andvice presidents. Connacht has its ownvice president, elected by theConnacht counties including Sligo.Members also elect fellow farmers to

commodity committees. Mostcommodity committees hold theirmeetings in the Farm centre in Dublinexcept the Western DevelopmentCommittee which holds its meetingsin Athlone.

The Commodity committees drawup policies for each of their briefs.These are then presented to nationalcouncil, the governing body, wherethey are accepted, amended orrejected. National council decisionbecomes IFA policy and must besupported by all members.

In the early years the organisationwas known as the National FarmersAssociation (NFA). On entry to theEEC, the NFA changed its name tothe Irish Farmers Association (IFA)and represented the farmers of Irelandon the European and internationalstages. The organisation also openedan office in Brussels and became avery effective lobby for its farmermembers.

In those early years of the NFA,farming was a hard life. Farmersdepended on the British market,which fluctuated greatly, making itvery hard for farmers to plan for thefuture. This uncertainty caused a lotof anger and frustration and led to therenowned march of farmers to DailEireann in 1966. Joe Dunphy ofEaskey led the Sligo march. Joe wasalso one of the nine farmers who satoutside the Dail in protest at therefusal of the Minister for Agricultureto meet the marchers. This march andprotest was in hindsight looked uponas the coming of age of theAssociation. The great example set bythe leaders of that era has beencarried on by numerous stalwarts tothis day.

After joining the EEC, farmingunder the Common AgriculturalPolicy became prosperous. Greatstrides were made in increasingagricultural production. Every farmerin Sligo was reclaiming land withEEC grants and expanding output tomeet consumer demand. The abilityof farmers to react to the challengeand opportunity that EEC entrybrought was historic. So successfulwas it that "food mountains" becamethe new catch phrase.

Food mountains led to a newapproach by the EU Commission,with the implementation of a quotaregime which curtailed output. Alsoworld trade demands to cut importtariffs and export aid have brought amajor decline in farming profit in thelast few years. A new policy of directpayment to farmers or, as it’s oftencalled, 'a cheque in the post', is beingimplemented in this the goldenjubilee of the IFA.

The organisation will probablyhave as difficult a challenge in thefuture as the farmers of 1966 had. It isimperative for rural Ireland and CoSligo that young farmers of todaydevote time and energy to theorganisation, thereby helping toguarantee as much as possible anoptimistic future in farming.

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L/r: Theresa Gilligan, Michael Berkery, Frances Guckian, Billy Sommerville, JoeCoulter, Mary O’Mahony

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Making St. Brigid’s CrossesBridget King

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MOST PEOPLE, when asked todescribe a St Brigid’s cross, will thinkof a rush cross with four legs comingout from the corners of a centralsquare. But this was not always so. Inthe past, crosses were made in a widevariety of shapes and patterns andwhile they were usually made ofrushes or straw, other materials wereprobably used depending upon whatwas freely and readily available inany locality. A number of museumsand folk parks around the countryhave displays showing the variouskinds. In Connacht, both the NationalMuseum of Country Life at Turlough,Castlebar, and the Folk Museum atKnock have large collections.

THE DESIGNSThe designs of the crosses fall intofour main groups based on themethod used to construct them:folded, coiled, woven, plaited.

Folded: These crosses are formedby looping or folding rushes or strawsover each other in sequence. Thisforms a solid centre with the openends of the rushes being tied togetherat the ends to produce "legs". Thereare a number of variations. The mostfamiliar one is in the form of a centralsquare with a leg at each corner,known technically as a tetraskele (seeFigure 1). Although nowadaysregarded as the standard design, itwas by no means traditionally madeeverywhere throughout Ireland. Inanother design, rushes were folded toproduce a triangular centre with threelegs protruding. This design, knownas a triskele, was often made in Ulsterspecifically for the byre whilst inother areas it was made for thedwelling house. Another morecomplex variation known as "theMother and Child" has a smalldiamond with four legs enclosed in alarger four legged square.

Coiled: In this design, the cross ismade usually of wood, and, startingfrom the centre, lengths of rush orstraw are coiled or wound around in acircular fashion to produce a diamondor lozenge known as the "Eye of

God." This may be a single diamondor a series arranged along the verticaland horizontal arms of the cross (seeFigure 2). It was widely madethroughout Ireland in manyvariations, some extremely elaborate,and indeed is found in many parts ofthe world.

Woven: This method involvesweaving in and out in a way similar tothe warp and weft of textile weaving,darning in needlework or stake andstrand basketry. The rushes or straware usually used in groups of threeand are either woven to produce anopen, lattice design tied in such a wayas to produce a bow shaped cross (seeFigure 3), or closely spacedproducing a narrower, straightercross. It was a favourite design inparts of North Connacht and adjacentareas of Ulster

Plaited: Plaited or twisted lengthsof rush or more commonly straw aremade into a symmetrical crosssurrounded by a circle (see Figure 4).Known also the "the Wheel" it waspopular in parts of Munster.

Elaborate Crosses using morethan one technique are known to havebeen made, for example, veryelaborate "Eye of God" designsincorporating plaited wheels andshamrocks as well as a large numberof coiled diamonds of various sizes.

TRADITIONAL MATERIALSField Rushes were and still are a

favourite material. They are widelyavailable, easily gathered and arefairly strong and flexible yet capableof holding their own shape. They canbe used for all types of crosses thoughthey do produce a rather floppy plait.Traditionally they are harvested on StBrigid’s Eve (January 31) from thelong acre or a neighbour’s land - touse your own implies you have anabundance of rushes which istantamount to an admission of poorhusbandry. They quickly dry out andbecome brittle and so, once cut, needto be kept cool and damp and usedwithin a day or two. (I have read andbeen told that rushes should always

be pulled, never cut; other peoplemaintain rushes were always cut. Inpractice it is very difficult to pull anyquantity of clean, long, undamagedrushes).

Bulrushes grow along slowmoving rivers and in shallow lakemargins. They are much sturdier thanfield rushes and so are the preferredmaterial for the folded crosses forsale in gift shops etc. However,forward planning is required since therushes must be harvested in highsummer and the drying, storing andsubsequent preparation takes care andattention.

Straw was once one of the mostwidely used materials for all types ofcrosses and, until around the middleof the twentieth century, was readilyavailable in many parts of thecountry. Today’s baled straw is short,crushed, chopped and bent to thepoint were it is totally unsuitable formaking crosses. If you want to use it,you will need to find a specialistsupplier of long, clean, undamagedstraw or grow a small square of yourown - pick the cereal grains out froma packet of wild bird food and usethem as seed.

Willow beds or sally gardens wereonce a common sight in rural Irelandfrom where strong, supple year-oldrods were harvested during the winterfor basket making and so on. Thesehave now all but disappeared but thewild or hedgerow willow remainsabundant. Although willow shrinks asit dries, this is not a problem whenusing it to make St Brigid’s crosseswhere it was used to make the strutsof the cross in the "Eye of God"design. Although I have not yet seenan old example, willow is easy toweave into the woven, open latticecross and comes in a wide range ofattractive colours including purple,green, chestnut, greyish green andorange red. It can be a gamble onwhether you can cut the hedgerowwillow before the flailer does, but itroots easily from slips taken in thelate winter or early spring. Thesecuttings should be around 50cm (18 i

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nches) long with approximatelyhalf the length inserted into theground. By custom and goodpractice, they should be planted whenthe moon is waning.

OTHER NATURAL MATERIALSWhilst I have not seen any old

crosses made with them, there are anumber of other natural materialswhich might have been used in thepast and certainly can be used today.The following list is by no meanscomplete but gives a sample of what Ihave found to be successful.

Hazel and Ash were used formany things in the past and can beused as struts for the "Eye of God."The wood is less flexible than willowbut thin, supple rods (that is, ones thatyou can bend easily around yourwrist) can be woven into the latticecrosses.

Dogwood, introduced relativelyrecently as an ornamental shrub,produces straight, supple one-yearold rods which weave nearly as wellas willow. It is now available inbright green, yellow and orange aswell as the more familiar burgundy. Itgrows fast and can be propagatedeasily in the same way as willow.

Blackberry bramble or briar iscommon and in the past was widelyused in basket making both as aweaver and for lacing or binding. It isflexible enough to be used in wovencrosses and split lengths can bewound around to make the "Eye ofGod"diamonds. The main problem isthat it needs de-thorning withoutdamaging its bark or your skin. Wildor garden roses can be used in thesame way.

Purple Moor Grass is found inbogs and other wet areas and in thepast was used to make ropes. I havebeen told, though cannot verify it,that it was used in South Sligo tomake the narrow woven cross and,like field rushes, was gathered on StBrigid’s Eve.

Yellow Flag or Wild Irisflourishes in damp land in the West ofIreland. When dried, the leaves arereminiscent of raffia and can be usedfor plaiting and tying. The leavesshould be gathered in autumn whenthey are beginning to brown and hungin a cool shed or outhouse to dry.

Either soak the leaves or leave themout in the rain for a few hours beforeusing them. Similarly, orangeCrocosmia (formerly known asmontbretia), although anintroduction, is often found growingalong roadsides and in abandonedgardens and can be used in the sameway. Of the more recently introducedgarden varieties, the tall red flowered"Lucifer" produces very long, strongleaves.

Periwinkles produce the first oftheir clear blue flowers on or aroundSt Brigid’s Day each year. In someparts of the country, including SouthSligo, it used to be customary on StBrigid’s Day to put periwinkleflowers in various parts of the houseas added protection. Although thereseems to be no record of the longtrailing stems being used, they areexcellent for coiling or winding intothe "Eye of God." Strip off the leavesand leave the stems to air in a warmplace for about two days. Thisproduces stems which are still supplebut far less likely to snap than freshfreshly picked ones.

MODERN MATERIALSDo not ignore the abundance of man-made materials unavailable toprevious generations but now foundeverywhere. In the past, people usedwhat was freely and readily to handand we can do likewise. Certaintraditionalists, whatever the craft,will maintain that there is a right wayand a wrong way of doing things. Iagree that it is right, indeed essential,to understand and be familiar with theskills and techniques of the past. Idisagree that we should only stickrigidly to what was done in the past;mere repetition leads in the end toboredom and declining interest. Whois to say that you cannot cut up yourold J-cloths and plait them into aMunster Wheel? You may not like my"Eye of God" made from blue balertwine incorporating a couple ofrounds of gold tinsel but that issimply a matter of taste. If it worksfor you and it looks right, then it isright. After all, St Brigid herself usedher imagination to experiment withwhat was around her to fashion herfirst cross. What better example couldwe have?

Figure 1: Folded Cross

Figure 2: Coiled Cross

Figure 3: Woven Cross

Figure 4: Plaited Cross

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The Sacred Heart Altar in theChurch of the ImmaculateConception, BallymoteJohn Coleman

THE MOST beautiful feature in theChurch in Ballymote is the altardevoted to the Sacred Heart.

The altar itself is executed in whitemarble with the Sacred Heartemitting flames from the top in whichis the cross forming the centre pointbound with the crown of thorns, withrays emitting from the whole. Thecrown of thorns symbolises thesuffering which that heart of Jesushad endured in recompense for oursins; the burning flame symbolisesthe enduring love which he has for allmankind and the rays symbolise theoutpouring of that love. There aregothic niches on either sidecontaining vases of votive flowers.

The altarpiece is executed in plasterframed by a beautiful gothic stylesetting, much lighter and moredelicate than the heavier Gothicarchitecture of the Church, capped offat the corners by spires or finials.i

The scene depicted is one of thevisions or apparitions of the SacredHeart to Saint Margaret MaryAlacoque (1647-1690) at the Conventof the Visitation at Paray-le-Monialwhich occurred between 1673 and1675. Margaret Mary was born atL’Hautcour in the French area ofBurgundy in 1647. After a childhoodtempered with ill health and othertrials she entered the Convent at theage of 24.ii

In the vision depicted we see Sr.Margaret Mary kneeling in prayerbefore a gothic altar in front of whicha full size figure of Christ hasappeared in a cloud and points to hisSacred Heart.

Some artistic licence is exercised bythe maker of the deep plaster relief inthat there are again vases to the leftand right, that on the left displayingthe passion flower, with its symbolsof the passion and death of Christ,

that on the right containing whitelilies, the traditional symbol of purity.

In her visions Our Lord urgeddevotion to His Sacred Heart assymbolising his love of mankind. Inthe second of her apparitions St.Margaret Mary saw the Heart withthe wound inflicted by the spear,surrounded by a crown of thorns andsurmounted by a cross, as depicted inthe altar in the church.iii

Her fellow sisters were sceptical ofher visions, but she was supported bya Jesuit, Claude la Colombiere, whowas canonised byPope John Paul II in1992.iv She wascanonised by PopeBenedict XV in1920 who declaredthat "the widespreaddevotion is due tothe revelationgranted to St.Margaret Mary".

High up above thealtar is a set of fourstained glasswindows. The topcentre windowdepicts the SacredHeart. To the right isSt. Margaret Mary inadoration and belowshe is depictedholding the SacredHeart. To the left isthe figure of a maleperson holding abook and a pen. ThisI think mustrepresent St JohnEudes (1601-1680).v He was agreat preacher offervour andeloquence andcomposed an Office

in honour of the Sacred Heart of Jesusin 1672. He promoted devotion to theSacred Heart, including in his bookThe Life and Royalty of Jesus in theChristian Soul (1637). Pope Leo XIIIdeclared him the author of liturgicaldevotion to the Sacred Heart andPope Pius X said that he was regardedas the father of worship of the SacredHeart. He was canonised by PopePius XI in 1925.

The inscription "Behold this Heart"was added by Canon Robert Flynnand is an extract from the words

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conveyed to St. Margaret Mary in oneof the apparitions.

Devotion to the Sacred Heart ofJesus had its roots in the Gospel of StJohn (7:37-9 and 19:33-7). TheMiddle Ages saw the Sacred Heart asrepresentative of the Passion and themerciful and unbounded love which itpromoted.

Devotion to the Sacred Heart inIreland is of very long standing andan image of the Sacred Heart has forlong been a prominent feature of Irishcatholic homes, often, since theadvent of electricity, with a perpetualburning red bulb in which is theimage of a crucifix. One of thepromises revealed to St. MargaretMary was that the Sacred Heartwould bless the homes in which theimage of His Heart is enthroned andhonoured. Ireland was consecrated tothe Sacred Heart in 1873.vi Therecently discovered masterpiece ofthe Irish painter Aloysius O’Kelly(1853-c.1941) Mass in a ConnemaraCabin, painted in 1883, shows animage of the Sacred Heart hanging onthe wall in the centre of thebackground of the cottage.vii Thislarge and magnificent painting of astation mass is on loan to the NationalGallery and on display there.

We all know the Sacred HeartMessenger to which many familiessubscribe. The Messenger wasfounded in Dublin in 1888 by theIrish Jesuit Fr Paul Cullen (he wasgiven use of a small room and a £1note). By the end of the first yearcirculation had risen to 9,000 and by1904 to 73,000. It was sold at 1 pennya copy and distributed by volunteers,which it still is. The June 1889 issueof the Messenger declared "Tens ofthousands of our Catholics wear thebadge as an emblem of their loyaltyand devotion to the Heart itrepresents, and there is scarcely ahome, even the poorest, which doesnot possess some picture or image ofit." The first Friday devotions, withtheir gift of final repentance, springdirectly from the revelations to St.Margaret Mary.

It is also quite usual to find a sidealtar of our churches dedicated to theSacred Heart. The Feast of the SacredHeart was made General in 1856 by

Pope Pius XII and this was just a fewyears before the dedication of theChurch in Ballymote.viii However, itis not clear when the altar wasinstalled in the church in Ballymote.The Church was dedicated on Sunday4 September 1864.ix A full page inThe Sligo Champion of 10 September1864 was devoted to a description ofthe Church and the opening ceremonyat which the sermon was preached byArchbishop McHale of Tuam (fulltext of sermon given) and a MozartMass was sung.x It is noted that thespire remained unfinished. Howeverno mention is made of an altardedicated to the Sacred Heart being inplace. It is noted that "the church wasso far completed in all its beautifulproportions as to admit of itsdedication". The account notes thefact that due to the failing of harvestsin 1861,62 and 63 there was realdifficulty in raising funds locally andvaliant efforts were made by CanonTighe to raise funds from the Irishcommunity abroad. In suchcircumstances, and considering theunfinished state of the spire, part ofthe very fabric of the church, it is veryunlikely that the altar dedicated to theSacred Heart was already in place atthis time.

Another question, which for thepresent remains unanswered, is whowas responsible for the design andmanufacture of the altar. It may havebeen the firm of Earleys of CamdenStreet in Dublin. Earleys were theleading firm of Church decoratorsfrom the 1850s until early in the 20thCentury. They were responsible for asimilarly complex altar dedicated tothe Sacred Heart in the AugustinianChurch, John’s Lane, Dublin(Thomas Street).xi William Earley, amember of this family remembersfamily stories of their dealings withCanon Quinn of Ballymote. Therewere of course two Canon Quinns,the brothers Canon Batty (d. 1920)and Canon Tom (d. 1947). Supportfor the suggestion that the altar mighthave been installed by Canon TomQuinn is that both St. Margaret Maryand St. John Eudes are depicted withhalos representative of their beingrecognised by the Church as Saintsand they were canonised in 1920 and1925 respectively.

John Coleman BA MLitt FRSAI was inspired in writing this articleby much discussion with my goodfriend Philip Morrissey. I am gratefulto Peter Costello, Hon. Librarian andTeresa Whittington, Librarian at theCatholic Central Library for theirassistance.

References:i See Michael McCarthy, The Origins of

the Gothic Revival, New Haven &London, 1987.

ii For an account of the life of St. MargaretMary Alacoque see New CatholicEncyclopedia, 1966.

iii Rev M.D. Forrest, Heart Afire devotion tothe Sacred Heart, Dublin and London,1953

iv He was sent to London as CatholicChaplain to the Duchess of York (wife ofthe future King James II) but arrested ona charge of treason and died of TB in theTower of London in 1782.

v For an account of the life of St John Eudessee New Catholic Encyclopaedia, 1966.

vi Liam Swords, A Dominant Church, TheDiocese of Achonry 1818-1960, Dublin,2004, p. 402.

vii See Niamh O’Sullivan's note on no. 32 (awatercolour colour study of this picture),p 22-23 of the Gorry Gallery, Dublincatalogue of their exhibition of 2nd –12thMarch 2005. I am also grateful to NiamhO’Sullivan for giving me a copy of moreextensive piece she has written on thepainting.

viii Ballymote Church was by the architectGeorge Goldie (1798-1868) of theLondon firm of Hatfield and Goldie, whoalso was responsible for the cathedral inBallaghaderreen, the Church inCharlestown and other religious buildingsin Sligo town (Jeremy Williams, ACompanion Guide to Architecture inIreland, Dublin, 1994, p. 334.). I havenoticed a very beautiful depiction of theApparition to St. Margaret Mary in theChurch in Edgworthstown, Co. Longfordin one of the recently beautifully restoredstained glass panels over the altar.

ix Liam Swords, A Dominant Church, TheDiocese of Achonry 1818-1960, Dublin,2004, p. 357

x A microfilm copy of The Sligo Championis available in The National Library ofIreland. The September/October 1988edition of the Corran Herald contains anarticle on the Church without mention ofthe altar and likewise the May 1986edition with an extract from theFreeman’s Journal of the time.

xi The altar in the Augustinian Church has astained glass window at the top showingthe apparition and the figure of the SacredHeart in mosaic over the altar. There is afurther stained glass window in the samechurch representing the apparition,probably by the Irish artist Michael Healy.The Early archives are in the NationalCollege of Art and design but the locationfor many drawings remains unknown andfurther searches there may reveal plansfor the work they did in BallymoteChurch.

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Heelin Coos: Scotland’sFavourite BeastsNiamh Conlon

HIGHLAND CATTLE are one ofScotland’s most famous animals.With their long shaggy hair andmassive horns they look like somesort of pre-historic beast roaming thehills and glens. They are consideredto be among the most intelligentspecies of bovines and are one of themost adaptive. Unlike other cattlethey do not stress easily and cansurvive harsh cold and altitude astheir presence high in the Peruvianmountains has proven. It is claimedthat they can survive temperatures aslow as –20ºC with regulartemperatures of –2ºC not upsettingthem. In Sweden they are the onlybreed allowed by law to be winteredoutdoors. Instead of laying down fatto keep themselves warm they havetwo layers of hair, a coarse outer coatcovering an inner layer of thick shorthair. For pedigree cattle this hair isregularly brushed and often piles ofmoulted hair can be seen in fieldsbefore the birds steal it for their nests.Because they retain heat with hair andnot fat their lean meat is prized andvarious attempts have been made tocross breed them with larger cattle.

However, their meat is not the onlyreason they are becoming a popularbreed: their ability to survive onmarginal land has obvious benefits.They feed less in winter even whenprovided with more food as theirbodies naturally slow down inpreparation for the lean months, thusmaking them very self reliant. Insome remote areas they are used as anenvironmental tool. In Switzerlandand parts of Scotland they are used tomaintain high mountain pastures thatwould otherwise not be grazed andtherefore be lost along with theecological diversity they contain.Many conservation charities are nowlooking at the benefits of keepingcattle on their upland properties andin Scotland Highland Cows are themost obvious and economical choice.They are prone to good health and

can produce young when over 18years old, with cows having up to 15calves, of which they are veryprotective. But this longevity isoffset by a slow maturation rate withcattle taking 4-5 years to reachmaturity. Even the animal’s coat cantake 3 years to settle into its adultcolour.

The first herd book for HighlandCattle was established in 1884,making them the oldest registeredbreed of cattle in the world andensuring that today’s cattle can tracetheir ancestors back manygenerations. Much of the earlydevelopment of the species isunknown but many authors havespeculated about their origins. It is

thought that all domestic cattle inScotland today are derived from theAurochs or European Wild Ox. TheWild Ox came from Central Asia orIndia, being found in Japan, China,North Africa and the Himalayasseven million years ago. By twomillion yeas ago the species haddiversified into Aurochs, Yaks,European Bison, Indian Bison andIndian Buffalo. As the ice retreatedfrom the northern latitudes theymigrated to Scotland around 12-10,000BC, coming north fromEngland and West from Denmarkacross the then dry, forested NorthSea Basin. As the sea levels rose theywere cut off in their new island home.

Imposing animals, they rose to

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Highland cow

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almost 6ft in height with a shoulderspan of 4ft judging by remains foundin the north of Scotland in Iron Agebroch settlements. While the boneshave been found in domestic settingthere is no evidence to suggestdomestication but rather they wereprobably hunted. It is thought thatthey were driven north by man untilthey became extinct in the 9th or 10thcentury. In Poland the species faredbetter surviving until 1627.

The first domestic breed of cattle inScotland were the Celtic Shorthorn;these were brought over by Neolithicpeoples almost 8000 yeas ago and notby the later Celtic people as the namesuggests. These animals were adomesticated version of the EuropeanWild Ox. Their remains are foundnear human settlement but analysis oflimb remains suggest that they rangedover a wide area and were usuallykilled when young. This implies thatthey were either semi-wild cattlehunted when young or they were keptfor their milk, young males beingkilled for meat.

Contemporary with this two otherspecies of cattle were introduced tosouthern Britain, with many authorssuggesting three. It is quite possiblethat these new breeds, the CelticShorthorn and the Wild Ox wereinterbreeding for a time. Later theRomans, Angles and Norsemenbrought their own cattle, adding tothe gene pool of later beasts. Fromthese potential matings emerged theHighland cattle of today, a breed thatevolved in the Highlands of Scotlandand are only 52 generations removedfrom the Wild Ox whose bones arefound in the northern bogs.

But the red-dun coloured cattle oftoday’s postcards only became themost popular breed in the last fewcenturies, as before that the majorityof Highland cattle were smaller blackanimals called Kyloes. A sub speciesof these were the Norlanders found inthe extreme north of Scotland andconsidered inferior to Kyloes. TheKyloes were found mainly in theWestern Isles and Western Scotland.Some authors suggest that the namederives from the Gaelic "coille" orwood as cattle were found in woodedareas in their wild state. Others feel itderives from the word "caol" which

means kyle, the modern name givento the narrow stretches of seadividing island from mainland andtherefore something the animals hadto cross to reach the mainland.

These black cattle were a traditionalform of wealth and had a history ofmovement from transhumance to theshielings or summer grazings to theftby rival clans. As the Highlands weredrawn into the economy of the south,cattle became a source of wealth.The industrial south needed meat andScotland had a scarcity of money, sodroving became an answer to bothproblems. As early as 1663 thenumber of Scottish cattle passingthrough Carlisle in the north west ofEngland was 18,547. With the unionof the crowns in 1707 this tradeincreased until its peak in the 1820swhen in 1827 the Falkirk tryst(market) in Scotland’s central beltcovered 200 acres, was held threetimes a year with in excess of100,000 cattle changing hands ateach, two of them reaching 130,000. With these markets and droves came

increasing trade for smiths who shodthe cattle and banks were foundedsome of which survive today. Hotelswere built on drove roads such as theKings House in Glencoe and tollswere charged to use roads andstances. The economy of theHighlands changed but in the 1860sthe advents of better refrigerationtechniques, transport and agriculturalpractices meant that cattle could befattened in the north and the meatshipped south with no loss ofcondition. This and competition fromother meat producing countries sawthe end of the little black cattle drovesand very soon the black cattlethemselves were interbred with theirlarger red cousins and while blackcattle can still be seen it is thoughtthat the original breed is gone andonly a colour remains.

ReferencesCochrane, U, A Keen Eye: Fact and Fictionon Scottish Highland Cattle, Edinburgh,1996.Haldane, ARB, The Drove Roads of Scotland,Edinburgh, 1996Sands, H, A Dream of a Breed, Country SmallHolding March 2003 Author Unknown, The Genetics of HighlandCattle, Highland Breeders Journal June 2004Information from The Highland CattleBreeding Society, Thornhill, Scotland.http://www.cruachan.com.au

Very Rev. T.Canon Quinn,

P.P.THE death has occurred at theParochial House, Ballymote, ofVery Rev. T.H. Canon Quinn, P.P.Aged 70, deceased was a nativeof Ballinabole, Collooney, Co.Sligo.

Educated at SummerhillCollege, Sligo, and St. Nathy’sCollege, Ballaghaderreen, heentered Maynooth where he reada distinguished course.Immediately on his ordination hewas appointed professor at St.Nathy’s College, and also held theoffice of Administrator atCoolaney. He was sent on aspecial mission to Glasgow in aidof St. Nathy’s Cathedral,Ballaghaderreen and for sometime was Administrator ofTourlestrane. He later went onanother mission to America incontinuation of his efforts onbehalf of the Cathedral funds. Hewas appointed parish priest ofBunninadden and in 1921 he wastranslated as Canon of Ballymote,where he succeeded his brother,Very Rev. B. Canon Quinn.

The late Canon Quinn was anoted theologian and he held theoffice of theologian of Achonrydiocese. He took a deep interest ineducation and was a member ofCo. Sligo Vocational Committee.He was greatly interested inhistorical records of the locality.In November last, he took aprominent part in the fifthcentenary of the coming of theFranciscan Fathers to Ballymote.He was an extensive farmer andagriculturist and was a member ofthe Shorthorn Society of GreatBritain and Ireland, and also ofthe Royal Dublin Society.

Canon T. Quinn died in 1943.Above piece supplied by Jim Kielty.

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Bellamont House, Collooney,and other 17th CenturyFortified Houses in Co. SligoMartin A. Timoney

A POSSIBLE CASTLE INCOLLOONEY

In October 1999 I researched apossible castle site in Collooney forMiss Moira Fallon1 of Collooney. Ofall the archaeological problems thathave come my way over the years thisone was unique! Moira Fallonaccepted a local and family traditionthat she has a castle in her garden,Richard Coote’s castle or fortifiedhouse of 1655, but having made aninitial visit to the site I was totallysceptical. Though none of it seemedobvious, the location turned out to bethe site where Bellamont, aliasBelmont, House now stands adjacentto the Catholic Church of theAssumption, both designed by SirJohn Benson. These notes arederived from that research for MissMoira Fallon whose help isacknowledged.

THE CASTLELittle of the castle or fortified

house remains. Two much repairedwalls, measuring 12.1m by 12.7m,rise in part to 2m and in part to about4.3m from the Castle Gardens2. Atstreet level there is a garage, 7.5m by4m, with incorporated pre-garage butnon-diagnostic masonry. The

openings in the walls are featurelessand so do not help with the dating.Through the gaps at ground level onecan see for at most a metre and thereis a suggestion that a dividing wallstill exists beneath the tarmacadam.Without at least some access to theinterior it is not possible to tell whatis more than a century old. However,curiously there are no apparentfeatures of 17th century date.

LOCATIONThe castle seems to have

miraculously escaped being markedon any large-scale map; I can find noold map of Collooney town to assist.The structure is not on the 1838 orsubsequent OS maps and it is not inthe Recorded Monuments and PlacesRegister3.

The castle is on the south side ofthe E/W road leading from upperCollooney, past the Catholic Churchof the Assumption, to what used to bethe main Sligo to Dublin road.O’Rorke (1878, 54) says that thelocation of Coote’s Castle wasadjoining where Mr. George Allen’scottage stands and this seems to bethe earliest clear indication of whereCoote's castle specifically was.O’Rorke (I, 1889, 183) sees this

actual location, opposite a bridge, asbeing part of a pattern of choosingpoints of vantage opposite fords orbridges near chief roads or passes.Modern housing masks this today butthe adjacent Catholic Church locatesCoote’s castle and the bridge, evenfrom a distance, in the landscape.

However, local knowledge is quitecertain that the castle was the onebuilt by Sir Richard Coote4 (1620-1683) in 1655. The late and mostlamented Mr. Jim McGarry, Ll. B.,former solicitor, genuine localhistorian and a wonderful institutionin himself, was also quite adamantthat this is Coote’s castle (1980, 5-6,and personal comments). JohnO'Hara, then historian with the SligoFamily Research Society andoctogenarian Cecil Haire, both ofwhom have strong connections withCollooney, also believe this to be acastle. The tradition is that Cooteused stones from the old McDonaghcastle of 1408 near the confluence ofthe Owenmore and Unsion, akilometre to the northeast.

In The Griffith Valuation of 1857for the Union of Sligo, p. 194, it is

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1 Bellamont House, I think that is the historically correctspelling, is small Gothic house designed by Sir JohnBenson as a retirement home for himself (McGarry 1980,54) but he died in 1874 in London and never got to livein it.

2 To the south of the Castle Gardens the RecordedMonuments Map has Sl.26:170 which is listed as"Barrack - Infantry possible". The three high-walledgardens are known as The Castle Gardens. This gardenmeasures 58.5m by 22m. The castle structure takes up acorner measuring 12.1m by 12.7m at the road frontage,i.e., in the NW corner. High walls, more likely of 18thor 19th century date than of Coote’s time, surround theCastle Gardens. To the south again is another walledgarden; so far nobody has offered any suggestion as to itsorigin. I am not sure if this is the third Castle Garden.For some reason this has been classified as a "Barrack -Infantry possible" in the Recorded Monuments Register.Clearly this is a Walled Garden or a Kitchen Garden andnot a barrack of any sort. Its location, overlooked by highground from several sides, argues against it having anymilitary connotation. Furthermore none of the Collooneyor the Co. Sligo local historians who would know haveany record or tradition of a barrack here.

3 Following on my library research the adjacent garden wastest excavated by Malachy Conway (Conway 2000), theclassification heading on which, ‘Infantry barrack,possible’, taken from the entry in the RecordedMonuments and Places list, provoked a follow-up note bythis writer (Timoney 2001). The test excavation by threetrenches of the sunken garden beside the potential castle"did not reveal any soils, features or finds ofarchaeological significance" (Conway 2000, 274).The 17th century house at Ballincar on the Rosses Point road –Photo Martin A. Timoney.

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recorded that Rev. Terence O'Rorkelived two houses to the west of theChurch of the Assumption whileGeorge Allen lived two houses to theeast, i.e., on the property now knownas Belmont, recte Bellamont, House5.O'Rorke was living just a hundredyards away from Richard Coote'sCastle. O'Rorke, who wrote thehistory of Collooney in hisBallisodare and Kilvarnet (1878) andalso wrote a two volume History ofSligo (1889), ministered in his nativeCollooney from 1854 to 1907.O'Rorke (1878), then, is as far back aswe can get with a locational referenceto Coote's Collooney castle but, as hewas born in Collooney in 1819, he ispossibly recording tradition of hisyouth in the 1820s.

SIZE OF THE CASTLEAre we looking at the almost

featureless walls of a corner tower?If so, in what direction were the wallsand other parts of the castle? Withoutarchitectural or map evidence we arestuck with the problem of notknowing just how big the castle was,which way the castle turns, or whereit extended to. A number of pieces ofhistorical information point to asizeable castle.

The castle is recorded in the HearthMoney Rolls for 1662 as having had10 hearths (MacLysaght 1967, 30;O’Dowd 1991, 141). In Appendix II,extracted from MacLysaght (1967) Igive a list of the 19 houses that arerecorded as having had more than onehearth. There are 15 with 2 hearths, 2

with 3 hearths and one with 4 hearths;after that Coote’s castle is the next,and only bigger one, in the list.Either Coote was willing to pour outmoney in taxes as a display of wealthor he had the biggest seventeenthcentury castle in Co. Sligo! Houseswere taxed as per the number ofhearths they had.

O’Rorke (1878, 145) records in theCensus of 1659, that of the 76 peoplein Collooney 37 belonged toCollooney castle, the residence ofRichard Coote. O’Dowd (1991, 139)records that Richard Coote kept partof his troop at Collooney.

Where was the rest of the castle?Does any more still exist, to the northunder the street, or to the west underBellamont House, or as far as underthe Catholic Church or its carpark?Or should we be looking east, thoughthe landscape does not fit as a castlelocation. Are the Castle Gardens thebawn area of the castle?

The historical information outlinedabove implies a sizeable structure andonly a little of it survives standingtoday. It may be a fair assumptionthen that stone from Coote’s castlewent into the now demolished 1798chapel. The foundations ofBellamont House and the groundunder the carpark and the 1837present Catholic Church of theAssumption may be other repositoriesfor this stone!

The next two largest castles wouldbe Moygara, 60m by 55m, andArdtermon, which with its bawntakes up an area of 35m by 40m.

OLD PHOTOGRAPHSSome photos of this part of

Collooney provided by AidanMannion give some informationdespite being postcard size and takento record the village or the church, notthe castle. Under magnification it ispossible to see a three-story structurewith 3 windows and 2 ?doors to theeast and with 2 windows and 2 ?doorsto the south. Apparently it had agable to the north, though the ivycover could be deceptive. Theearliest photograph shows a high ivy-covered gable to the road front.Apparently the ivy covers two storeyswhere the single story garage is nowwith a single story in thetarmacadamed area to the rear.

TITLE DEEDSTitle deeds to the property begin

with Bryan Ricco Cooper of Markreein possession at the beginning of the20th century. One details that theSligo, Leitrim and Northern CountiesRailway bought "that plot of groundwith the dwelling house and out-offices thereon known as BelmontHouse situate at Collooney" in 1941.

COMMENTOur past can be frustrating, in the

way that tantalising references to amajor castle, in fact the biggest in thecounty if we are to judge by theHearth Money Rolls of 1665, existbut still the archaeological orarchitectural evidence is scant, andconfusion is added by a curiousreference to a possible InfantryBarracks, an attribution that stillneeds clarification.

Assuming that this was RichardCoote’s Castle of 1655, i.e., a mid-17th century fortified house then itwas one of a series of fortified houses 4 The name Belmont, or, as seems more correct, Bellamont

may derive from the fact that Richard Coote, son of SirCharles Coote, was made Baron of Collooney in 1666 byCharles II, then Earl of Bellamont in 1689 by William IIIand later again Governor of New York in 1695 byWilliam III. Coote got Collooney in 1643. In 1655Richard Coote built a castle in Collooney. In 1727Richard Coote sold Collooney to Cooper of Markree for£16,945, 5s, 6d. This may imply a period of use of nomore than 72 years use for the castle as Cooper hadalready a substantial dwelling less than two miles to theeast, but this abandonment seems unlikely in the light ofthe evidence for its size assembled below. The removalof the Coote family from Collooney could havesomething to do with a child falling out the window ofthe castle, thereafter regarded as being unlucky. TheCoote title became extinct in 1800. Bellamont Forest,Cootehill, Co. Cavan, was a later Coote property (Bence-Jones 1978, 37). Ballyfin, Co. Offaly, is another Cootehouse. There is a bawn at Cootehall, Co. Roscommon,and Jamestown, Co. Leitrim, owes its genesis to theCoote family.

5 There was a house across where the access to the churchcarpark is now.Bellamont House. –Photo: Martin A. Timoney

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of that period in the county. Some,Castlebaldwin, Ballincar, Ardtermon,for example, are in excellentcondition, as far as such structures go.Others have been obliterated orwrapped up in the fabric of laterenlargements or enhancements or ourbig houses. We visited one, Nolan’sCastle in Inishcrone, on theBallymote Heritage Group outing in2004; some years ago we visitedGlinsk, Co. Galway, a roofless butotherwise almost complete fortifiedhouse. The superbly reconstructed17th century Parke’s, or Newtown,Castle on the Sligo to Dromahaire isjust inside the Leitrim border.Houses of this period have distinctivediagonally positioned chimneys as tobe seen at Villier’s castle inDromahaire. Alterations to parts ofthe Cistercian Abbey in Boyle are ofthis period.

17TH CENTURY FORTIFIEDHOUSES AND CASTLES IN

SLIGOArising from Dudley Waterman’s

basic but most useful 1961 study ofthe 17th century fortified houses andcastles in Sligo the writer has acertain interest in these buildings,particularly those in Sligo, but alsothose in Leitrim, Mayo andRoscommon. The work of MauriceCraig (1976; 1982) added to ourknowledge of buildings of thisperiod. Downing’s description of Co.Sligo towards the end of the 17thcentury was recently edited by ÓMuraíle (2002) and O’Dowd (1991)gives an authoritative analysis of theperiod based on her PhD thesis.

Two appendices, a list of 17thcentury buildings in Sligo and a list ofthe occupied bigger buildings of thatperiod as suggested by the 1662Hearth Money Roll, may encouragefurther research6.

AcknowledgementsI acknowledge the help of Moira Fallon,James McGarry Ll. B., Aodhán O'Higgins,Aidan Mannion, Mary B. Timoney, JohnO'Hara, Jude Gilligan, Cecil Haire, JohnMcTernan, Donald Murphy and Dr. Kieran D.O'Connor in trying to establish just where wasCoote's castle of 1655 and just what is thestructure at Bellamont House. Paul Kerriganlent me his copy of Salter’s Castles ofConnacht at the GSIHS conference in Sligo inMay 2005.

ReferencesConway, Malachy, 2000: "Collooney",Excavations Bulletin 1999, 274, 99E0652.Craig, Maurice, 1976: Classic Irish Houses ofthe Middle Size.Craig, Maurice, 1982: The Architecture ofIreland from Earliest Times to 1880.Kerrigan, Paul M., 1995: Castles andFortifications in Ireland 1485 to 1945,London, The Collins Press.McGarry, James P., 1980: Collooney,Collooney, McGarry. MacLysaght, Edward, 1967: "SeventeenthCentury Hearth Money Rolls with fulltranscript relating to County Sligo",Annelecta Hibernica, No. 24.MacLysaght, Edward, 1969: Irish Life in theSeventeenth Century, Shannon, IUP reprint.McTernan, John C., 1994: Worthies of Sligo,Profiles of Eminent Sligonians of Other Days,Sligo, Avena.O’Brien, Patrick E., and Timoney, Martin A.,2002: Sligo’s de Burgo Castle of 1310: AnAddendum", in Timoney, ed., 195-198.O’Conor, Kieran Denis, 2002: "Sligo Castle",in Timoney, ed., 2002, 183-192. O'Dowd, Mary, 1991: Power, Politics andLand: Early Modern Sligo, 1568-1688,Belfast, Institute of Irish Studies.Ó Muraíle, Nollaig, 2002: "Downing’sDescription of County Sligo, c. 1684", inTimoney, ed., 2002, 231-242.O’Rorke, Terrence, 1878: Ballisodare andKilvarnet, Dublin, Duffy.O’Rorke, Terrence, 1889: History of Sligo,Town and County, Dublin, Duffy, Two Vols.Salter, Mike, 2004: The Castles of Connacht,Malvern, Folly.Timoney, Martin A., 2001: "Collooney, Co.Sligo", Excavations Bulletin 2000, Bray,Wordwell, 369, Appendix 1.Timoney, Martin A., ed., 2002: A Celebrationof Sligo, First Essays for Sligo Field Club,Sligo, Sligo Field Club. (= ACOS).Waterman, Dudley, 1961: "Some IrishSeventeenth-century Houses and theirArchitectural Ancestry", In Jope, E.M., ed.,Essays in Building History, London.Wood-Martin, W.G., 1889: The History ofSligo, County and Town, from the Accession ofJames I to the Revolution of 1688, Dublin,Reprint, Sligo, 1990, Dodd's AntiquarianBooks.

Appendix IA provisional list of 17th century fortifiedhouses or castlesAnnaghmore, A short distance NW of thepresent house (Egan et al. 2005, 481). Ardtermon, excavations 1982 by JoyceEnright, (Waterman 1961, 268-270, Pl. XXX;Craig 1982, 125-126, plan and view; Salter2004, 3, 95)Ballinafad, a small military castle of 1590 or1610 (Waterman 1961, 270-272; ACOS 2002,236; Salter 2004, 95); testing followed bymonitoring did not establish any archaeologyon the site for the National Field StudiesCentre, nor of the ‘great fortifications’referred to by Downing Ó Muraíle 2002, 242,#43).Ballincar (= Cregg) (Waterman 1961, 273-274: Craig 1986, 133; Salter 2004, 96-97).Carrownanty, alterations to parts of Ballymotecastle, (Egan et al. 2005, 463-464). Castlebaldwin (Waterman 1961, 272-274;Reconstruction drawing by Leask inMacLysaght 1969, 96; Craig 1976, 56 (plan);ACOS 2002, 272; Salter 2004, 98; Egan et al.2005, 481-482)Castletown O’Dowd, Cottlestown (Salter2004, 98)Collooney, Bellamont House, (Timoney, thisarticle; Egan et al., 482)Derroon (Egan et al. 2005, 483).Inishcrone (Waterman 1961, 272; Salter 2004,100-101), See aerial photo.Kilglass, NE of Inishcrone.Kingsborough (= Ballindoon) (Egan et al.2005, 483).Moygara, perhaps, (Egan et al. 2005, 477-479; Salter 2004, 3, 100).Markree, incorporated in the main building(Egan et al. 2005, 483).Sligo town, Thomas Phillip’s Prospect ofSligo, 1685, shows some buildings with 17thcentury chimneys (O’Conor, 2002, 187, 188,figs. 1 & 2; O’Brien and Timoney 2002, 196,fig. 1).Streamstown, Achonry (Egan et al. 2005, 483-484).Tanrego, near the shore of Ballisodare Bay(Salter 2004, 102).Tanseyfort (= Cooperhill); recent excavationsby Charles Orser (Egan et al. 2005, 482-483).Templehouse, part of the complex at the lake,(Egan et al. 2005, 465-466, 484; Salter 2004,102)

Appendix IIHouses in The Hearth Money Rolls of Co. Sligo for 1662 for which there were more than

one hearth.Hearth Money Roll For Co. Sligo for 1662 NLI MS. 2165

––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––Surname Christian No. Parish Townland Spelling Notes

Name–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Brown Robert, clerk 2 Easky Lissaghan ? LissaghanCollis Charles 2 Drumcliff Cloonderry ? CloodelrareDodwell George 2 Drumard Tanrego TonregoDrumond William of 2 Kilglass t.n.g. ------

SkreenErwing John 2 Drumard Tanrego Tonrego "? = ErwinHarloe Thomas 2 Drumrat t.n.g. ------Hart Thomas 2 Kilshalvy t.n.g. ------Howse Timothy 2 Cloonoghil Bunnanadan BunadaneHughed Henry 2 Aghanagh Ballinafad BallanafaddaKing Francis 2 Emlaghfad Rathdooneybeg Kerdonnibegge ?Nicholson John 2 Castleconnor ------ Stewanisky Sleanisky in S&DOrmsby William 2 Easky Rathlee RathleeSoden Thomas 2 Ahamlish Grange GraingeWatts Capt. 2 Killaspugbrone Scarden ScardaneWilkinson John 2 Kilmacowen Carrowkeel CarrowkillCooper Edward 3 Ballysadare Rathgran RathgranyGore Francis, Sir 3 Drumcliff Finned Curt & FuidPark Robert, Capt. 4 Sligo town SLIGO ------ Check PhillipsCollooney Richard, Lord 10 Ballysadare Rathgran Rathgrany

Baron of––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

6 Stewanisky or Sleanisky in the Books of Survey andDistribution is probably Gleneaskey, a valley SW ofDromore West.

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Swinford Mercy Order 150thAnniversarySr Phil Clancy

WHEN the Sisters of Mercy arrivedin Swinford on June 5th 1855, sixyears had elapsed since the greatsocial catastrophe of the nineteenthcentury had hit the country. This wasthe 1847 – 1849 great famine. Theparish priest of Swinford, Fr BernardDurkin, was authorised by BishopDurkin of Achonry to erect a conventin his parish. This was a district inwhich distress was always severe.

It was not until June 1855 that FrDurkin got a group of sisters tooccupy the new convent. On June 5thof that year, Sr Aloysius Martyn andSr de Sales Coppinger came from theConvent of Mercy in Tuam to set up afoundation in Swinford.

They set about helping the poorand set up primary and post-primaryschools. Later they were involved inhealth services. They worked in theold Workhouse and later in theDistrict and Fever hospitals.

Many foundations were startedfrom Swinford. The foundress SrAloysius Martyn, Sr de Sales Dooleyand Sr Liguori O’Hara founded thefirst convent in Bendigo, Diocese ofSandhurst, Australia, in 1875. Fromthere they set up another foundationin Benalla, Australia, and yet anotherin Latrobe, Tasmania, in 1892. Theywere accompanied to Australia by thecurate in Swinford Fr Owen Davey,who was a native of Ballymote.

COMING TO BALLYMOTEThe next foundation after the

Australian ones was in Ballymote, CoSligo. In 1902 Rev Canon Loftus,parish priest of Ballymote, asked RevMother Evangelist McCarthy if shewould send sisters from Swinford toBallymote. Four sisters were chosenfor this new foundation: Srs MargaretMary Daly, Vincent Ahearne, PatriciaMoylan and Calasanctius Cassidy.

Sr Margaret Mary was sister ofMarcella Daly who was then incharge of the Infant School inBallymote (later she became Mrs

Clarence of Ballisodare). SrCalasanctius Cassidy was on loanfrom the Convent of Mercy in Traleeand returned there.

The sisters first took up residencein Castle Lodge, which was on part ofthe site now occupied by the Sistersof St John of God. Within a week theybegan their works of mercy.

PRIMARY EDUCATION The Girls’ Primary School at that

time was operated by Mrs Kelly,assisted by Mrs O’Dowd. Both it andMarcella Daly’s Infant School wereconducted in two buildings where theLoftus Hall now stands.

In the beginning the sistersconducted a private school in CastleLodge. Srs Margaret Mary andPatricia taught the literary subjects,Sr Vincent taught instrumental andvocal music, and Sr Calasanctius heldArt classes. On Sundays the sistersgave religious instruction in theparish church where the classes weresuitably graded. In the afternoon theyattended to the sick poor in theneighbourhood.

In 1904 the Primary School wastaken over by the sisters fromMarcella Daly.

While Mother Eden Casey wasthere Canon Loftus died and wasreplaced by Canon Connington.Shortly after his arrival, EarlsfieldHouse, property of the Gethinsfamily, was put up for sale. It waspurchased by the new parish priest asa parochial residence. Later heoffered it to the Sisters of Mercy as aconvent. The sisters bought it for£2000 and gave their residence inCastle Lodge to the parish priest.

Canon B. Quinn succeeded CanonConnington and he was responsiblefor the erection of the primary schoolon Pearse Road. It was reconstructedand extended by Monsignor P.J.Roughneen in 1951. Sr AgnesO’Grady was principal of the SeniorSchool there, and Sr Gabriel Kelly

was principal of the Junior School. In the early 1990s the Boys’

National School was amalgamatedwith this school and on September21st 1992 Sr Regina Lydon becameprincipal of the new school. She wasthe last sister to serve in primaryeducation in Ballymote. When sheretired in June 2003 she wassucceeded by Dolores Taheny.

SECONDARY EDUCATIONIn 1942 a new secondary school

was opened by Sr de Sales Gould,following consultation with MissRose Gonley who up to then had aschool on the Keash Road. The firstpupils were enrolled on September14th 1942. The staff were Sr FrancesKeating, Sr Ursula Flannery, andRose Gonly. Miss Sadie King joinedthe staff in 1944.

In 1955, in response to the need forsecondary education for boys, theschool became the first co-educational school in Connacht. NoGovernment grants were availablethen, so the Sisters of Mercy out oftheir own resources built a newschool containing five classrooms, adomestic science kitchen, andcloakrooms. The new school,"Coláiste Muire", was blessed andofficially opened by Bishop JamesFergus on September 12th 1957. Theprincipal was Sr Patrick Cawley. Thestaff were Sr Assumpta Brehony, SrRegina Lydon, Sr Albeus O’Halloran,and Mrs Nora McNulty.

Sr Veronica Cassidy succeeded SrPatrick Cawley in 1965 and shesupervised the building of a large andfully equipped science laboratory in1967. This was the only grant-aidedbuilding up to that time. During SrAngela O’Grady’s time as principalWoodwork and Technical Drawingwere introduced.

Sr Colette Kilcoyne becameprincipal in 1980. With Sr AttractaShiels, Mother General of thediocese, she opened negotiations with

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the Department of Education forfunding for a further extension. Afterfive years permission was obtainedfor a quarter-million pound building.It was seen through to a successfulconclusion by the untiring efforts ofSr Veronica Cassidy, then MotherGeneral, and of Sr Margaret Killoranwho succeeded Sr Colette Kilcoyneas principal in 1986.

The turning of the sod for the newbuilding was performed by the thenTaoiseach Charles J. Haughey onJune 10th 1988. Local fundraisingwas undertaken by the friends ofColáiste Muire who raised £65 000.Including the gymnasium, the cost tothe Sisters of Mercy was close to£300 000, a lot of money at that time.The new extension was opened onMarch 4th 1991 by the then Ministerfor Education, Mrs Mary O’Rourke.

SISTERS FROM BALLYMOTEThe Sisters of Mercy invested a lot

of resources in Ballymote, but werewell repaid. Ballymote gave manyfine women to the Mercy Order: SrsAttracta Kilcawley, Rosarii Cryan,Assumpta Brehony, VeronicaCassidy, Emmanuel Coen, Vianney

Mullen, Kathleen, Josephine andAttracta Shiels, Ben Chambers,Colette Kilcoyne, Margaret Killoran,Sheila Molloy, Christina Scanlon RIP,Bridie Reynolds RIP, BerchmansScully RIP, Margaret Mary Daly RIPand Rose O’Dowd RIP. Last but byno means last Sr Loreto Hogge who isat present the only sister on the staffof Coláiste Muire.

BALLYMOTE LAUNDRYIn the early 1930s the laundry in

Ballymote came into operation. SrCatherine Kennedy, a Kerry woman,started it and ran it with the assistanceof two local girls. This was a publiclaundry which served the people ofBallymote and of the locality.Laundry was also done for the parishchurch, the Passionist Fathers inCloonamahon, and the Sisters ofMercy in Collooney and Ballisodare.All modern machinery was used.

Sr Catherine was succeeded by SrBrendan Sunney, a native ofAnnabeg, Collooney. She carried on avery efficient business there with herco-worker Joaney Brennan and otherhelpers.

The means of transport was a

donkey and cart – there were few carsin those days, and the driver was JohnMcGettrick who lived then in theconvent gate lodge.

Sr Brendan retired in the 1960s andwith this came the end of an era. Nosister was available to replace her sothe Ballymote laundry was forced toclose. It had given great service forover thirty years and we pay tribute toall who worked there.

ANNIVERSARYCELEBRATIONS

All the Mercy Sisters from thediocese of Achonry enjoyed a greatweek-end of celebration to mark the150th anniversary of their arrival inSwinford. The Band of the GárdaSiochána entertained all on Fridaynight June 10th.

A Mass of Thanksgiving wascelebrated by Canon Michael Joyce,parish priest of Swinford, onSaturday the 11th. The celebrationscontinued in the Gateway Hotel,Swinford, and in Julien’s in Midfield.Great credit is due to the people ofSwinford for making this such amemorable occasion for the MercySisters.

Mercy Sisters in Swinford at their 150th Anniversary Celebration. Front Row (L-R) Srs Veronica Cassidy, Bernadette O’Grady,Maureen Lally, Kathleen Durkin, Agnes O’Grady, Phyl Clancy, Agatha Durkin. Middle Row: Srs Ethna O’Grady, EvelynMcDonell, Phyllis Kilcoyne, Mary Leavy, Frances McNicholas, Marie Celine O’Halloran, Pascale McMorland. Back Row: SrsMargaret McGinnity, Vianney Mullen, Mairéad Murray.

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Aghanagh Church of Ireland150th Anniversary 1855-2005Kathleen Fairbanks

THIS YEAR is the 150th Anniversaryof Aghanagh Church of Ireland,Ballinafad, Co Sligo, in the diocese ofElphin, Barony of Tirrerrill, Provinceof Connaught, situated near theshores of Lough Arrow just off theN4 motorway.

In the year 1845 when the greatfamine took over this island of ours itwas the case that the old church onthe shores of Lough Arrow wasalmost in ruins and unfit for churchservices. And it was inconvenientlysituated.

From Vestry meeting notes: AVestry meeting was called for theParish of Aghanagh, within theUnion of Boyle. It took place in theschoolhouse in Hollybrook estateon the 11th August 1845 by kindpermission of the Ffolliott family.The chairman was Rev JohnMaguire, Vicar of Boyle Union.Result: That the site of the churchof this parish be transferred to thetown land of Culsheegary-more toa field now in the possession ofEdward Fairbanks commonlycalled the Well field, bounded onthe north by the townland ofKnockroe, on the south by the fieldcommonly called the Garden field,

on the east by the High roadbetween Boyle and Sligo and onthe West by the field commonlycalled the Cave field. All situatedin the Parish of Aghanagh, Countyof Sligo and Diocese of Elphin.Signed: John Maguire - Chairman,John Ffolliott and K. D. Lloyd -Churchwardens.Parishioners Present: EdwardFairbanks, John White, John Knott,Richard Lillie, Richard Tonacliffe,John Walsh, John Ferguson,William Fairbanks, Thomas Belland William Craig.

The funding for this project camefrom the Ffolliott family of nearbyHollybrook Estate (there is no recordof any fundraising for same). ChurchServices took place in theschoolhouse on the Estate during thebuilding progress, which could betermed a "Famine Project". The vicarcame from Boyle by pony and trapand later by bicycle until the motorcar arrived. The parishioners walkedor some had sidecars, pony and trap.There were large congregations in1855-1900: staff and workmen fromthe estate and their families attendedand families were large then. (Quotefrom ECCLES JOURNAL April

1844: "School house in Hollybrooklicensed for Public Worship").

It was when the potato crop failedin the above-mentioned field that anarea was taken and walled off inpreparation for building. The churchwas to be a limestone Gothic designby James Welland, Architect. Thedrawings are in the R.C.B. Librarydated December 1850. It is said thestone and lime used came from thelocal quarries. The masons carried outall work on the site, working duringdaylight using horses for transportand labour would have been localgiving employment. Water wasobtained from wells and the lakenearby. Some highly skilled labourwas obtained, usually specialists fromEurope.

The new church was consecratedon September 28th 1855 by the LordBishop of Kilmore, the Right RevMarcus Beresford, afterwardsArchbishop of Armagh. There was alarge attendance and the Rev F Hundof Boyle preached a very impressivesermon.

There was a single aisle with thepulpit on the right hand side. The fontwas just outside the communion rails,the communion table was in thesanctuary and the vestry was off to

29Ruins of original Aghanagh Church

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the right with a back entrance door.There was a central furnace for

heating using coal, with stone steps toit. The sexton attended to the fire.Electricity came in 1965.

The main entrance porch has itsoriginal door with 50 studs. Also theoriginal windows are there, withleaded diamond glass and stoneframes Victorian style. The late MrsFfolliott requested no stained glasswindows - "let the light shine in".

Floors were flagstone, latercarpeted.

The pews are the original oak ones,stained and varnished, as also are thepulpit, reading desk and communionrails and chairs.

The church silver is dated 1855.The brass lectern is in memory of

Rev Francis Clarke MD, LLD,Archdeacon of Elphin, dedicated byhis friends and parishioners ofAghanagh 1883-1910. The brassbook stand on the communion table isin memory of Emma and WilliamWhite 1947.

The organ was also donated by theFfolliott family. It was used up to1974 when recordings took over. MsElsie Fairbanks was the last organist.

The 1965 new communion tablewas designed and made by Col.Sinclair.

A stone seat outside the church is amemorial to Miss Agnes Ffolliot,born 7/9/1859 died 1911. She was agoverness to the royal house ofRomania and was also a painter.

The bell is still used on Sundays to"call for worship". According to localtradition, when this bell was erectedin the belfry it became apparent therewas a mix-up: the Roman CatholicChurch had also ordered a bell andeach church got the other’s bell bymistake.

The bible was a copy of the sacredscriptures presented to Major JohnFfolliott, Hollybrook, and dated May1870. It was a gift from theparishioners of Aughanagh churchwho were mostly part time tenantfarmers. The bible was returned to thechurch in 1949.

The graveyard surrounding thechurch has been in use since thechurch was built.

The original double gates at themain entrance still stand.

Services: Every Sunday at 12 noon.

Commemorative TabletsCommemorative dedications on tablets on thechurch walls inside include the following:To the beloved and honoured memory of JohnFfolliot only son of John Ffolliot and his wifeMaria Lucie Stepney born Nov 21 1824, diedDec 27 1894. And to his dearly loved wifeGrace Charlotte Philips who died 1909, andtheir daughters Anna died 1889, Agnes died1911. All of Hollybrook.Here we have no continuing city but we seekone to come. Precious in the sight of the Lordis the death of his saints. In memory of theRev. Christopher Adamson formerly curate ofBoyle, and labouring more especially in theAghanagh district, where he enjoyed the highprivilege of ministering the gospel andsacraments of Christ. And was an example ofthe believers in word, in conversation, incharity, in spirit, in faith, in purity. Having

fought a good fight, and finished his course,and kept the faith, he died July 31 1856, it ishumbly and confidently believed in the graceof our Lord Jesus Christ and the love of Godand the communion of the Holy Ghost. Aged35 years. "To me to live is Christ, and to die isgain". "Oh death where is thy sting? Oh gravewhere is thy victory? Thanks be to God,which giveth us the victory through our LordJesus Christ."To the memory of Arthur Bagnall Henry ofthis parish. Sergt, Royal Irish Rifles who gavehis life for his country near Ypres in France17th August 1917. This tablet is erected by hisneighbours and friends in token of theirgratitude and respect. St. John XV.13The handrail is in memory of William F Craig,died 1999.

Aghanagh Parish Church today

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Roger Chambers Walker, SligoAntiquaryMartin A. Timoney

ROGER CHAMBERS WALKER,MRIA, QC, 1806-1854, ofRathcarrick, Knocknarea, parish ofKilaspugbrone, Co. Sligo, was alandholder, farmer and landlord,barrister and the Sligo antiquary ofthe early 19th century. The only sonof James Walker of Rathcarrick, d.1853, Solicitor, and Letitia Johnstoneof Co. Fermanagh, d. 1835, who hadmarried in May 1793, he was born on29 October 1806. Two sisters whowere born before 1811, were Jane,who married Meredith ofCloonamahan in 1819, and Letitia,who married Chambers of Cloverhill.James, his father, was the son ofMichael Walker of Sligo town andAnn Gilmore; he was Agent to thePalmerston North Sligo, OrmsbyCummeen and de Butt Oakfieldestates. The coat-of-arms with motto,Passant Cressant En Honeur, isillustrated in McTernan (1990, 56).

Roger married Amy Eliza HesterCramer-Roberts, daughter of the Rev.John Cramer-Roberts of Sallymount,Newbridge, Co. Kildare, in June1838; she was five years his elder.They honeymooned in Wicklow inJune and, after the Circuit, inBelgium, Germany and Holland. Shehad property connections with thebarony of Barretts, Co. Cork. Theirsurviving children were RogerCramer, John Francis and Henrietta.

He was educated by Mr Jenkinsand entered TCD 5 July 1821,obtaining his B.A. in 1826 and M.A.in 1832. He entered King's Inns,Dublin, in 1825 as a barrister andfinished his studies at King's Inns,Dublin, 1829, and Gray's Inn,London, 1827. He was admitted toConnaught Bar 1 in July 1830.

He practised as a barrister from1834 until 1849, living at 2, GranbyRow, Dublin, from 1834 until 1851and at 3, Gardiner's Row from 1853until 1854; his widow lived there fora while. He became a Queen'sCounsel on 7 February 1849, and

worked the Western Circuit from1848 until 1854.

In 1837 he had a duel at Bomorewith Ramsay who had appeared onthe opposite side in a court case. Hewas election agent for theConservatives, a Trustee of the localPrimrose Grange Erasmus Smithschool and worked towardsestablishing a railway from Sligo toEnniskillen.

The Walker family boughtRathcarrick in 1795, building a housebefore 1814 and later ornamentingthe demesne with walks, gardens andfolly monuments (passage tomb,tower, gothic doorway; the ringfort inthe garden is genuine though alteredfor a tennis court). A larger two-storey east front was added in 1873by James Rawson Carroll; the house,illustrated in McTernan (1990, 66),was restored by 1996. The familyheld property in Kilaspugbroneparish, Church Island in Lough Gill,Tullyvellia in Leyny barony and inSligo and Dublin.

Walker lived in an area of manymonuments including Knocknarea,Carrowmore and Cloverhill. Manythings could have inspired his interestin antiquities, his father was not anantiquary. He was aware of the diaryof Gabriel Beranger’s tour throughConnaught in 1779; the Sligo part ofthat tour was arranged by Lewis Irwinof Tanrego, a fellow Sligo landlord.He was a contemporary of Sir SamuelFergusson at TCD. By summer 1828a life-long family friendship withGeorge Petrie, the Father of IrishArchaeology, had begun; this was theyear that Petrie became a Member ofthe Royal Irish Academy. They wereon Knocknarea before December1828 and together they had alreadyseen a considerable number of Sligoantiquities; nine of Walker’s letters toPetrie are in the National Library ofIreland. Petrie's sketch of Benbulbenfrom Rathcarrick dates to about 1836.In 1837 Walker paid £5 for a portrait

of Petrie which hung at Rathcarrickuntil at least c. 1898 but perhaps untilApril 1938 when it was auctioned atRathcarrick for £8.2.6.

Petrie’s letter of 12 August 1837from Rathcarrick to Thomas Larcomat the Ordnance Survey details theCarrowmore passage tomb cemeteryand records the results of Walker’sdigging into several tombs inprevious years; Wood-Martin usedthis in the 1880s when publishingCarrowmore. Walker’s diggingmethods were not the best andstopped under Petrie’s influence. Hehad designs on opening MisgaúnMaédbh on Knocknarea. In 1842 heprovided details of Kilaspugbroneand Aghanagh churches for Petrieand, despite his linguisticbackground, he dabbled in Irishplace-names and collected some oldIrish tunes; Petrie collected TheSilken Article from Biddy Monaghanwho had been reared at Rathcarrick.

Walker was elected MRIA on 24June 1833. He never publishedthough he did keep a diary, fromwhich Wood-Martin publishedextracts in 1895. He had the

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The Crest and Coat of Arms of RogerChambers Walker, from a rent receiptbook.

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Carrowmore passage tomb cemeterymapped and did fieldwork for Petrieas early as 1828. His manuscriptAccount Book is very detailed onspendings on family, health, house,travel, antiquities, books, etc., from1836 to 1845.

He was a passionate collector ofIrish antiquities, spendingconsiderable sums on metal, stoneand cloth antiquities from all over thecountry. The objects were poorlydocumented and never exhibited inpublic but were displayed atRathcarrick. Walker financiallysupported the RIA museum. TheWalker family insisted on returningbones to the Kilaspugbrone courttomb in 1842, but not on returning thecross that he stole from Drumcliff.Some antiquities were given toWalker in the expectation that it wasfor national and patriotic purposes.In 1851 Walker, at the age of forty-five, sold his substantial varied andvaluable private collection for £300through Edward Clibborn, curator ofthe RIA museum, and Albert Way, toAlgernon the 4th Duke ofNorthumberland at Alnwick Castle;Walker was unsure of the destination.Algernon donated some material backto the RIA in 1852 and in 1990 ourNational Museum purchased the goldobjects at auction from Alnwick.

Some antiquities, either theremains of Walker's collection oritems which later reached

Rathcarrick, were there in 1898.Items from Rathcarrick were or are inAlnwick, NMI, New YorkMetropolitan museum, LimerickHunt Museum and the BritishMuseum.

Walker, the leading Sligo antiquaryof the early 19th century, died on 7September 1854, and was buried lessthan a mile from Rathcarrick at St.Anne's, Strandhill, where there is abaptismal font in his memory. Hemay have been in ill health for a yearor so but it is locally known that hedied soon after a heart attack after aconfrontation with a wandering friarwhile being with workers erecting aboundary to his land, which has neverbeen finished, and establishing a newavenue. He had not made a will; hiswidow, Amy, became his executorand his assets were £3,000 includingover one thousand five hundred acres;in 1858 the house was valued attwenty-eight pounds. Amy diedsuddenly, aged seventy-four, in theKensington area of London, in May1875; she was buried at St. Anne’s.The last male Walker, John Walter,the fourth generation of Walkers tolive at Rathcarrick, died in 1950,having auctioned off most of thecontents of Rathcarrick in 1938 for atotal of £142.0.6. The last femaledescendants in the Walker line,daughters of Marian McManus whowas a daughter of John Francis, wereliving in Glasgow in the 1980s.

ReferencesOrdnance survey letters (1836-1837); RogerChambers Walker, Account book, 1836-1845,Ms., Sligo Library Local Studies Archive;W.G. Wood-Martin, The rude stonemonuments of Ireland: Sligo and the island ofAchill (1888); W.G. Wood-Martin, PaganIreland (1895); Owen Tweedy, The DublinTweedys (1956); Finlay Tower Kitchin, ‘TheCarrowmore megalithic cemetery, Co. Sligo’,Proceedings Prehistoric Society, 49, (1983),151-175; John C. McTernan, At the foot ofKnocknarea: a chronicle of Coolera inbygone days (1993); Stefan Bergh,:Landscape of the monuments (1995); MartinA. Timoney ‘Recently discovered high crossat Drumcliff, Co. Sligo’, Corran Herald, 32,(1999-2000), 41-43; Aideen M. Ireland,‘Roger Chambers Walker: A Sligoantiquarian’, J. Irish Archaeology, 11, (2002),147-187; Martin A. Timoney and PatrickHeraughty, ‘Sligo Antiquarian Society, 1945-1946, and Sligo Field Club, 1946-1947 and1954-2002’, in Martin A. Timoney, ed., Acelebration of Sligo, first essays in honour ofSligo Field Club (2002), 275. Personal information: Self, AodhánO’Higgins, Derry O’Connell.

This is the text presented on the life of RogerChambers Walker to The Dictionary of IrishBiography being prepared by The Royal IrishAcademy to be published in six volumes in2006. It will detail the careers of 9,000prominent men and women born in Irelandand the noteworthy Irish careers of those bornoutside of Ireland, all of whom are dead.Some entries are being written by ‘in house’Dictionary staff while others are by over 500external contributors. Dr. James Quinn is theExecutive Editor and Mr. James McGuire isthe Managing Editor. A number of Sligopeople, among them Benson, O’Rorke,Walker and Wood-Martin, are included.

At the unveiling of the memorial plaque to Tom McGettrick beside Ballymote Castle, on Saturday September 18th 2004. InEnglish the inscription reads: In memory of Tom McGettrick 1912 – 2003, teacher – historian – antiquary – sportsman,thespian – neighbour and friend to all, a true son of Ballymote. –Photo courtesy Eileen Tighe

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Significance of the Brother WalfridMonument in the 21st CenturyJohn Perry TD

IT IS NOT necessary for me tooutline the life of Brother Walfrid.It is very well documentedAnd it is a life that echoes, resounds,and lives on here today... through thisstatue and through his legacy.

But it is necessary for me to tell youthisBrother Walfrid was a Marist Brotherfrom Ballymote, County Sligo, andeven though he may have emigratedto Scotland as a young manToday he is rightfully back with us inthe land of his birth.

Through the Celtic Football Club hemade an outstanding and life longcontribution to the lives of youngpeople,Young people who existed in theworst of circumstances.It was, and is, the kind of contributionthat finds its heartbeat in all that isbest, and good, in the lives and thedevelopment of the young. .

THE CONTRIBUTIONOF HOPE

He leaves a legacy of that hope inbeing one of the Founders of theCeltic Football Club, a Club thatbecame the driving force of lifesustenance forThe PoorThe MarginalizedThe immigrantThe joblessThe hungryThose without hopeThose without adequate educationThose without useThose without relevanceThose without powerAnd most important ... the young.

What he created for the young is hismost important legacyAnd indeed the real reason we arehere to dayWe are a world that loves to give out

prizesAnd build monuments - Bafta awardsEurovision awardsMusic awardsOscar awards TV awardsCelebrity awardsProperty awardsFinance awardsComputer awards -

Given and gone in the time allotted,Awards of very little significance inchanging the lives of those who getthem, or indeed of those who justlook on in awe and wonder.

We are also very committed to thebuilding ofUgly monumentsSteel Spires in the middle of the cityIron circles outside BanksBrass circles outside InsuranceCompaniesPewter circles outside TV stationsGiant forms outside Airports

Monuments all signifying nothingMonuments to profit and materialsuccessMonuments understood by no oneMonuments reminding us of nothingMonuments inspiring to do nothing,or go nowhere.

But this statue of Brother Walfrid hasa very different ConsciousnessIt has a very different reason for itsexistence.Rooted into our soil here in SligoWe are privileged to be part of hisachievementWe are privileged to be able to sharein his achievementAnd we are privileged to be able toreflect off his achievement andWe are privileged to be able to learnfrom it.

This statue is a living force of whatcan be achieved

What can be sharedWhat can be developedWhat can be done by one person’senergy and commitmentBy one person’s belief in a better way,and a more lasting result.This statue is for every young person,parent, worker, carer, helper,volunteer and player here today

It is for you all, because it representsPossibilitiesThe possibilities of what can be done,of what can be achieved,Because it represents HopeThe possibilities and hope that gobeyond politics money and materialThe hope that concentrates on thehuman being and howYoung people can best be servedAnd how they can have and holdbetter and healthier lives

ALL OF THE OTHER PRIZES ANDOSCARS HAVE THEIR EYE ONTHE MONEY, ON THE MAINCHANCE,

Brother Walfrid’s eye was onknowing that through the FootballClub lives could be changed for thebetter and foreverAnd that they can continue to changeas the Club and Football remainsevident and alive today AND HE DIDIT ALL VOLUNTARILY

I SUPPOSE BECAUSE HEUNDERSTOOD THAT IT IS ONLYWHEN WE GIVE THAT WE GET.That is his real life storyThat is the real statueThat is why it will, although a statue,always breathe.

• John Perry TD is Chairman ofBallymote Enterprise Company. He isalso Fine Gael Spokesperson for theMarine. The Brother Walfridmemorial is in the Town Park,Ballymote.

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Perth Irish honourBallymote manA BALLYMOTE man who haschalked up more than three decadesof hard work on behalf of Perth’sIrish community is the latest worthyrecipient of the prestigious BrendanAward. Tom Kearns from Emlaghfad,Ballymote, was presented with theaward at a special function in Perth’sIrish Club on Monday April 19, 2004.

The Brendan Award is awardedannually by the Australian-IrishHeritage Association (AIHA) to anindividual who has made “anoutstanding contribution to the causeof Australia’s Irish heritage”.

With a history of activism in theGAA, Ceoltas, St Vincent de Paul andthe Claddadh Association, TomKearns admitted he’s kept very busy.“I’m retired now but I often wonderhow I ever found the time to work,”he joked.

“I’m delighted with the award, it’sa great honour and a great surprise.”

The Keams family came toAustralia 34 years ago on the £10scheme intending to give it two years.However, like many Irish before andsince, they never left.

“We settled in Fremantle and fell inlove with the place,” Tom explained.“Of course, we go back to Ireland forregular visits but we love theAustralian way of life.

“My wife Kathleen and I have

always enjoyed getting involved inlocal groups and organisations.

“It is very important to us to feelpart of a community and to contributeto that community,” he added.

A talented singer, Tom is presidentof Ceoltas in Perth and attends theweekly Monday night meetings.

“We have great crowds comingalong every Monday,” he enthused.“As well as the music, we have setdancing and Irish language classes.

“There is a great deal of interest init and it is growing all the time.”

The GAA is also one of Tom’s firstloves. He served as president of theGAA in Western Australia and wasthe first president of the GAA for thewhole of Australia in 1974.

Tom and wife Kathleen are alsoinvolved in welfare work. They areboth volunteers with the St Vincentde Paul group and Tom is a foundingmember of Claddagh, the welfareassociation for the local Irishcommunity.

And with six children and ninegrandchildren, even spare time isaction-packed.

“I don’t mind at all,” Tom laughed.“Keeping busy keeps you young.”

The AIHA’s new president, JoeCrozier, said Tom Kearns was a veryworthy recipient of the award andthanked him for all his efforts onbehalf of the Irish community.

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Tom Kearns from Fremantle was presented with the 2004 Brendan Award for hiswork in Perth’s Irish community. He is pictured with his wife, Kathleen.

Planninga

ChurchFrom a 10/02/1854 letter writtenby the Bishop of Achonry, MostRev Dr Durcan, to the parishpriest of Ballymote.

Dear Mr Tighe,I am very happy to learn that

you and your worthy parishionershave resolved to commence ingood earnest to rebuild yourchapel. It is highly creditable tothe religious and generous peopleof Ballymote to express suchwillingness to co-operate with youin so laudable an undertaking.

Indeed it was a matter ofabsolute necessity that you shoulddo something during the presentyear to improve the state of thechapel, for the roof is evidently sobad and so unsafe that you couldnot without imminent danger tothe lives of the people let it remainfor another winter in its presentstate.

I have therefore very greatpleasure in giving my approbationand encouragement to the goodwork in which you are engaged,and I will also give mysubscription towards it althoughbeing engaged myself in a similarundertaking – that of erecting acathedral church in Ballaghaderrin- I will not be able to contribute soliberally as I would otherwise bedisposed to do.

Wishing you every success andhoping I will have the gratificationof seeing a new church in (restillegible)

Supplied by Padraig Doddy

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Ballymote Corn Mill (Gorman’sMill)Jim Kielty

IN 1795 a corn mill was built byRobert Gorman at Keenaghan,Ballymote. It was powered by waterbrought from Ballinascarrow lake.

Almost sixty years later inDecember 1854 the mill wasaccidentally burned and completelydestroyed. It was later rebuilt on thesame ground by the Gormans andequipped with the most up to datemachinery of the time.

In the early 1920s it was poweredin dry seasons by a crude dieselengine which also generated 110 voltelectricity for the mill.

With the advent of the railway,three men with horses and carts wereemployed to bring the produce of themill to the station and carry Indiancorn on the return journey. In 1927-28a cable car system on pylons wasconstructed to connect the mill with aspecially built siding and store besidethe station.

After being operated continuouslyby several generations of Gormans,the mill was once again destroyed byan accidental fire in October 1941.This was the end of milling inBallymote.

MEN EMPLOYED 1925-1940Three Cawley brothers: Michael,Tom, JakesThree Gallagher brothers: Hugh,Tom, PatTwo Meehans: Jim and son MichaelTwo Carrs: Pat, JohnOne Cunnane: FrankTwo Flannagans: John and SonJim Reynolds,M MorrisonPaddy Killoran

In the 1920s an engineer namedAbernathy was employed and the lastengineer to work there was JohnElders. Richard Russell (Dickie) wasan office clerk.

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Ballymote Cornmill in early 1900s

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Sir John Benson, 1812-1874,Architect and EngineerMartin A. Timoney

JOHN BENSON, who was born in aone storey thatched cottage inCollooney in 1812, designed theExhibition Hall for the 1853 DublinGreat Exhibition, for which he wasKnighted. He designed Bellamont orBelmont House and also the CatholicChurch of the Assumption beside it inCollooney. He also did many otherdomestic, civil and ecclesiasticalworks of distinction, mainly in Cork,where he was successively CountySurveyor and City Engineer.O’Rorke (1878, 125-126; 1889, II,530-532) and McTernan (1994, 16-19) give details of Benson’sachievements in a life of 62 years thatwas turned when Edward JoshuaCooper of Markree recognised hisability and sent him off to school inDublin. There was a life-size portraitof him by the Cork artist Harding inthe Athenaeum in Cork. Sir John wasa first cousin of Dr. Charles Benson,first President of the College ofSurgeons.

To the east of the Catholic Churchof the Assumption is Belmont House,a house designed by Benson as aretirement home for himself(McGarry 1980, 54) but as he died on17 October 1874 in London and wasburied in Brompton cemetery in thatcity he never got to live in it.Belmont House is the name that wasin current use some years ago. I amnot sure of the origins of the name,the earliest mention of which I canfind is in a legal document for 1960,but Miss Moira Fallon, the formeroccupant to whom I am indebted forpermission to publish a reducedversion of research done on herbehalf, is of the opinion that the nameis much older. It may have been thatBenson used Bellamont House whichmay be more historically correct.

Benson died in London on 17October 1874, never having thesatisfaction of retiring to the house hedesigned for himself in Collooney.

There will be an entry on Sir John

Benson by Helen Andrews in TheRoyal Irish Academy’s Dictionary ofIrish Biography to be published in2006.

It is hoped that this note and initialdraft list of his works andachievements, from various sources,mainly O’Rorke (1878, 125-126),O’Rorke (1889, II, 530-532), WoodMartin (1892, 130, 153), McGarry(1980), McTernan (1994, 16-19) andWilliams (1994, passim), may be ofinterest to readers of The CorranHerald, particularly those in theCollooney area; that it will provoke agreater awareness of Benson’sachievements in his native county,and provoke someone into properlyresearching and publishing his life

and also Sligo people intorecognising him by commemorativeplaques on Bellamont House andother works of his.

Works that Sir John Benson wasinvolved in

IN SLIGOBellamont, alias Belmont, House,CollooneyCamphill linen office, Collooney Collooney St. Paul's ProtestantChurch: transepts, groined ceilingand new roof of 1837Collooney Church of theAssumption, 1843Collooney Market Ho., PorticoCol. Barrett's picturesque cottage

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Benson House, Collooney. –Photo: Martin A. Timoney

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Dominican Holy Cross, Sligo,1845George Allen's tasteful littlecottage in CollooneyMarkree Castle, Concrete vaultingof the bedrooms, c. 1830-1832, hisfirst Simm's Flour & Corn Mills inCollooneySt. Anne's, Strandhill, 1843Victoria Bridge, now Hyde Bridge,1848-1852Lisheen, alias Seafield, 1840,Italianate style

IN MAYOBallina Cathedral tower, 1858

IN DUBLINThe Great Exhibition Hall of 1852.A composite iron, timber and glassbuilding. This temporary buildingis early in the world series of suchbuildings.

IN CORKAthenaeum, where the OperaHouse was afterwardsBenson Bridge across the RiverLeeButter Market, beside Shandonchurch, 1849 or 1852.Catholic Pro-Cathedral of Cork,extension of 1862-1867, massivetower, unused designsCentral Markets, Prince’s St., 1840Chapels in St. Finbar'sCork waterworks, 1858,Lombardic styleFormer North Gate BridgeLee Navigation 1871Magistrates Court, Cornmarket St.

Princes St. ‘English’ market of1862, of the galleria family.Railway tunnel near Cork Station,two miles longKent Railway Station on GlanmireRd. Lr., Tuscan portico designSt. Luke's Ch.St. Patrick's BridgeSt. Patrick’s Catholic Ch.,Glanmire Rd., 1873, extensionSt. Patrick’s Cemetery Glasheen,1867-1869, twin mini-churchesSt. Vincent's Ch., Sunday's Well,1851. This collapsed in a storm in1853Summerhill C. of I. churchTower of St. Mary's CathedralVictoria Quay Deep Water BerthRoadsThirty bridges in totalPost with Board of WorksSurveyor of West Riding of Co.Cork, appointed March 1846Engineer to Cork HarbourCommissioners in January 1851Surveyor of Co. Cork in 1851

ReferencesMcGarry, James P., 1980: Collooney,Collooney, McGarry. McTernan, John C., 1994: Worthies of Sligo,Profiles of Eminent Sligonians of Other Days,Sligo, Avena.O’Rorke, Terrence, 1878: Ballisodare andKilvarnet, Dublin, Duffy.O’Rorke, Terrence, 1889: History of Sligo,Town and County, Duffy, Two Vols., Dublin,Duffy.Williams, Jeremy, 1994: Architecture inIreland, 1837-1921, Blackrock, IrishAcademic Press.Wood-Martin, W.G., 1892: The History ofSligo, County and Town, from the Close of theRevolution of 1688 to the Present Time,Dublin, Hodges Figgis; Reprint, Sligo, 1990,Dodd's Antiquarian Books.

Bellamont by Benson. –Photo: Martin A. Timoney Supplied by John Doddy

Jim McGarry

AFTER 93 years of stimulating,challenging and fulfilled life,James P (Jim) McGarry died onApril 26th 2005. By profession alawyer who spent most of hisworking years in Ballymote, hewas also a lover of the arts(especially literature), a localhistory and folklore enthusiast, aman of strongly held and oftencogently articulated opinions, agreat humanitarian and aninstitution in his own right. Jimwill be sadly missed by hisrelatives, to whom we offersincere sympathy, and his manyfriends. A frequent contributor toThe Corran Herald, he will bemissed by its readers too. May herest in eternal peace.

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Terence O’Rorke, 1819-1907Martin A. Timoney

TERENCE O’RORKE, 1819-1907,PP, DD, VG, Archdeacon, MRIA,FRSAI, Archdeacon of Achonry,Professor of Theology in the IrishCollege in Paris, was born inCollooney on May 20th, 1819, theFeast of the Ascension. He was theson of John O'Rorke, 1791-1874, andhis wife, Winefride McSharry, 1797-1876; they had a bakery on theopposite side of the road to CollooneyChurch of the Assumption. He, Terry,had at least two brothers, John, 1828-1901, and ?James and at least twosisters, all of whom seem to have pre-deceased him.

He learned Greek and Latin at asmall Classical School inToberscanavan, south of Collooney,and went on to the DiocesanSeminary in Ballaghaderreen. Heentered Maynooth College inSeptember 1840, and was ordained17 June 1847. He was a gifted Frenchscholar and a man of classic diction

but he lacked Irish.Immediately he was sent to the

Irish College in Paris where he spentfive years, 1847-1853, rising to theposition of Professor of DogmaticTheology. The intellectual life inParis appealed to him and he to theleading ecclesiastics and politicians.During his last three years he was aregular Paris correspondent for theBaltimore Catholic Mirror. He mayhave suffered ill health at the end ofhis time there.

In 1854 O'Rorke was recalled byPatrick Durcan, his predecessor inCollooney and now Bishop ofAchonry, to be Parish Priest of theunited parishes of Ballisodare (orBallysadare) and Kilvarnet for fifty-four years until his death in 1907,living all the time in the western halfof the house of his brother John nextto Collooney church. He wasimmediately appointed Master of theConference of Achonry Diocese. In1864 he achieved a DD and wasappointed Examiner for TheologicalDegrees in the Catholic University.He was appointed a Canon of theCathedral Chapter in 1874 and wasraised to the dignity of Archdeaconby 1868.

He was responsible for Clarence ofBallisodare completing in 1879 thebuilding of the spire of Sir JohnBenson’s 1843 Church of theAssumption in Collooney.

Shortly after his appointment toCollooney he began compiling thehistory of his native parishes ofBallisodare and Kilvarnet. He visitedhistorical monuments, collected oraltraditions and had access to thepapers of the O’Haras ofAnnaghmore, the Coopers ofMarkree and the Percevals ofTemplehouse. Ballysadare and

Kilvarnet was published in 1878,over six hundred copies being soldwithin a few weeks, it beingdemanded that every house in theparish have one. He was elected aMember of the Royal Irish Academyin 1879; Bishop Reeves was one ofthe nominators.

In July 1870 O'Rorke topped a pollwith nine votes for coadjutor bishopof Achonry to his predecessor PatrickDurcan. He was a man fitted for themitre, eminent in theology, eloquenceand intelligence, was a very warm-hearted character, and while his lackof Irish could be rectified a scurrilouscharacter assassination referred to bySwords (2004, 34-35), which is notaccepted locally, stopped theappointment.

His two-volume History of Sligo,Town and County, was published inJuly 1889, reprinted 1986, and soldfor fifteen shillings a set. It had manydrawings by William F. Wakeman,who had made Drawings of theAntiquities of County Sligo forColonel Edward Cooper, of MarkreeCastle, Collooney.

The sources for this parish byparish work on the antiquities,history, social history and mythology,folklore and the religious history ofmany generations of Sligo, with alittle on nature, were State Papers andother official documents in Dublinand in London. He also usedinformation from fellow clergymen,but mainly from manuscripts and,critically, the work of JohnO'Donovan, George Petrie andCharles O'Conor, very little of itbeing taken from printed sources.His attempts at distinguishing pre-history from history were not alwayssuccessful, thousands of years notbeing allowed for in the overall time s

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Terence O’Rorke

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pan and his references werealmost non existent.

O’Rorke believed that the firstvolume of Wood-Martin’s History ofSligo failed to justify its title andwrote his own volumes as a balanceto it, but no ungenerous expression isused towards either Protestants orlandlords as such though someindividuals received just comment fortheir public misbehaviour. At thededication of Killasser new churchO'Rorke launched "a tirade on the‘pampered clergy’ of the EstablishedChurch" which was "toppling fast andsoon to be numbered with all itsbaneful and cursed memories amongthe very worst things of the past".

His third publication, a 200-pagevolume of eleven sermons preachedlocally was published in July 1899.Regrettably for the historian, thesermons contain little of historicalrecord, even when dealing with St.Attracta, Patron Saint of Achonry, orat the laying the first stone of theChurch of the ImmaculateConception in Ballymote in 1857

which is beside the 15th centuryFranciscan Third Order priory.

He died in his family home on 18November 1907, in the 61st year ofhis ministry which had spanned muchof the 19th and the early 20thcenturies. In his will of 4 May 1904he bequeathed his soul to God, almost£700 in money, including that for hisfuneral expenses, for masses bypriests in Achonry and in the IrishCollege in Paris, for prayers in nineconvents, money for the poor and theeducation of Protestant and Catholicin his parishes, for an English essayprize in his former Diocesan college,for investing for Collooney Camphillschool, and money for relations. Hislibrary of 5,000 books wasbequeathed to Bishop John Lysterwith a request that it be alphabeticallycatalogued; this was at least partlydone in 1926. He gave his house andpiece of land to his nephew JamesO’Rorke. His wealth includedinvestments in the Great NorthernRailway of Ireland and a LifeAssociation of Scotland policy. A

marble memorial, reflective of lateHiberno-Gothic art, was erected in1911 over his burial place on theEpistle side in the Church of theAssumption, Collooney. The text byBishop Clancy sets out his life andthe monument has a chalice, an angeland two winged cherubs, and agnusdei and the motto Beati Mortui Qui inDomino Moriuntur, Apoc. XIV, 13.

Terence O’Rorke, History, antiquities, andpresent state of the parishes of Ballysadareand Kilvarnet, in the county of Sligo, withnotices of the O’Haras, the Coopers, thePercevals, and other local families (1878);Terrence O’Rorke, The history of Sligo: townand county, (1889, reprint 1986); TerenceO’Rorke, Occasional sermons on varioussubjects, (1899); Dr. Shaw, in The DublinEvening Mail, quoted at end of Sermons; J.G., "Miniature Memories", The DublinJournal, June 16, 1887, 143; Irish Monthly, 17(1889), 445-447; Letters of Terence O’Rorkeof 10 July [?1895] and 27 July [?1895], IrishMonthly, 36 (1908), 649-651; The will ofTerence O’Rorke dated May 1904; ObituarySligo Champion, 23 Nov. 1907; TadhgKilgannon, Sligo and its surroundings (1926),photo opposite p. 1; John McTernan, Here’s totheir memory, profiles of distinguishedSligonians of bygone days (1977); JimMcGarry, Collooney (1980); Robert Flynn,"Terence O’Rorke (1819-1907) and hisHistory of Sligo", The Corran Herald, 35,(2002-2003), 35-37; Martin A. Timoney andPatrick Heraughty, "Sligo AntiquarianSociety, 1945-1946, and Sligo Field Club,1946-1947 and 1954-2002", in Martin A.Timoney, ed., A celebration of Sligo, firstessays in honour of Sligo Field Club, (2002),276; Liam Swords, A dominant church, thediocese of Achonry, 1818-1960 (2004).Personal information: Jim McGarry,Monsignor Joseph Spelman, Canon JohnDoherty, Una Tempany, Dr. PatrickHeraughty, Mary B. Timoney, FamilyMemorial in St. Fechin’s Ballisodare.

This is the text presented on the life ofTerence O’Rorke to The Dictionary of IrishBiography being prepared by The Royal IrishAcademy to be published in six volumes in2006. It will detail the careers of 9,000prominent men and women born in Irelandand the noteworthy Irish careers of those bornoutside of Ireland, all of whom were deadbefore 2002. Some entries are being writtenby ‘in house’ Dictionary staff while others areby over 500 external contributors. Dr. JamesQuinn is the Executive Editor and Mr. JamesMcGuire is the Managing Editor. A numberof Sligo people, among them Benson,O’Rorke, Walker and Wood-Martin, areincluded.

Illustration: Terence O’Rorke, 1819-1907,after Kilgannon, Sligo and its Surroundings,1926 [XXIV].Collooney Catholic Church. –Photo: Martin A. Timoney

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Ballymote Public Houses, from1910 to the PresentFOLLOWING is a list of Ballymotepubs between 1910 and the present,compiled by Jim Kielty, O’ConnellSt. The various establishments arenumbered separately, and thesuccessive owners listed after thenumber.

O’Connell Street1. J O’Hara, Tom Scully, Des Kielty2. Thomas Edward O’Brien, Batty

Cawley3. J Hannan4. Tom Killoran, Tommy Walsh,

Cunningham’s5. Peter Henry, J Markey, Frank

McDonagh, John Rogers, JohnDoddy

6. John Berreen (part of J Doddy’snow)

7. John McDonagh (where JJ Kieltylives now)

8. James A Flannagan, JJ Coleman,D Brady, White, Glancy,Scanlon, Ross

9. Mark McGann, Mark Henry10. Nora Rogers11. Bernard Kelly (retired 1922,

where Masie McGovern livesnow)

12. James Kielty (1910 – 1960,where Jim Kielty lives now)

13. Batty Coughlan, JamesGilmartin, Martin T Tighe, PatEgan, John J Kielty, Ted Quigley,Temple, P Stephens

14. Carley, Tom Quigley, Kerins("Hide Out")

15. John Farry

Market Street (LordEdward Street)1. Pat Barlow, Jim McGettrick

(Donlons reside there now)2. Delia Dawson, Tommie Rogers3. Miss Phillips, L Hart, Tommie

Keenan, Gannon, Quigley, Davey,McCarthy

4. Morrison’s Hotel, Hannan’s,Flannery’s, Des Johnson

5. James Hannan, Luke Hayden,Michael Perry

6. Matthew Gallagher (property laterowned by Richard Molloy andnow by John Lavin)

7. Davey’s (where Mrs Mulhern nowlives)

Teeling Street1. P Coghlan, J Healy, Thomas

Tighe, Dennis Tighe2. Callaghan’s, Henry Gorman, Tom

Hunt, Mattimoe’s3. Joe Mullarkey’s, Brian Dwyer’s 4. Begley’s, Kilkenny’s, Scully’s5. W Lipsett, Mrs Droughton

Emmett StreetOne pub only, the "Stand Alone",owned by Andy Walsh.

40

Ballinacarrow N.S. 1931 – Front row l/r: J. McLoughlin, M. McGowan, G. Jordan, F. O’Dowd, C. Molloy. Second row: C.Keane, A. Hannan, L. McBrien, B. Brehony, A. Redican, M. Brehony, S. Goulden, E. Williamson. Third row: M. Coleman, M.Goulden, M. Taheny, D. Redican, K. Lang, M. Ryan, M. O’Hara, S. Devaney (head teacher). Fourth row: E. Quigley, S.Gilmartin (teachers), I. Forde, A. Derrig, S. Coleman (S), S. Coleman (J), M. Derrig, B. Henry. –Photo courtesy May Reynolds

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An Aughris-type Enclosure onKnocklane, Co. Sligo Martin A Timoney, Leo Leydon and Eamon Cody

WHEN looking for an item in our'filing system' we often findsunexpected treasures. So alsooccasionally with fieldwork In mid-2004 Leo Leydon brought the othertwo authors to several of hisdiscoveries on the Maugherowpeninsula, just to get confirmationfrom 'The Experts'. For a moment ofdiversion he brought us to Knocklanepromontory fort1, (see Timoney(2002, 12) for a published photo asseen from the east). While examiningthis magnificent fort, standing 50 ft.above the rocky shore2, Eamon Codynoticed a shallow ditch forming asmall rectangular enclosure and drewour attention to it. Immediately one ofus (Martin A. Timoney) proclaimed itto be of the same sort of feature as atsites on the opposite side of the Bay.On Aughris Head there are hundredsof them and at Portavaud there are atleast nine. See Kitchin (2002) andTimoney (2002) for descriptions,illustrations and discussion, but nodefinite interpretation, of theseenigmatic monuments3.

THE KNOCKLANEENCLOSURE

This small Knocklane enclosuremeasures at most 6 m by 3 m overall

with the slightly domed interiormeasuring 3.50 m by 90 cm. Theslightly dished fosse is 55 cm widealong the longer sides and 60 cmwide at the northern end; the southernend is now only 30 cm wide due to apass developed by sheep coming inthrough the entrance in the innerrampart. It is hard to establish theheight or width of the very faint outerbank. The ditch bottom is hardlymore than 15 cm below thesurrounding ground and the interior isjust perceptibly higher than thesurrounding ground. The ditch andthe interior have rounded corners. Itis on ground sloping gently to thesouth-west and is 13 m from the innerbank of the fort and 19 m from the seacliff and its alignment is N-S. Themost comparable illustrated site isthat at Portavaud (Kitchin 2002, 39,fig. 4). The site excavated byFitzPatrick gives little indication ofthe surrounding bank (see Timoney2002, 46, fig. 10 for photo).

COMMENTThere have been arguments that

these enclosures had something to dowith drying kelp and seaweed. Just asat Aughris and Kilcummin thisKnocklane site is situated in a

location that is very inaccessible fromwhere seaweed could be collected.There is no access to rocks below;seaweed would be near the neck ofthe headland half a mile away.

We admit that we have nodefinitive explanation for theseenigmatic enclosures. Timoney wentthrough almost twenty suggestions,and dismissed most or all of them(Timoney 2002,51-53). It is possiblethat these enclosures are not allbroadly contemporary, some mayhave been re-used long after theywere first constructed and some maynot have been completed.

Looking in another direction theKnocklane location is across the bayfrom Aughris and Portavaud and doesthis say anything?

Aughris, Portavaud, Knocklaneand in a sense though at a greaterdistance, Kilcummin, are opposite themonastic island of Inishmurray.Could they have something to with aritual in connection with that mosthigh status early ecclesiasticalmonastery?

41

1 The westernmost tip is called "Cooladoon or DooneraghPoint" on the 6 in map.

2 The 50 ft. contour runs along the edge of the headlandand there is a trigonometrical station at 70 ft. on thewestern bank of the fort.

3 We also noticed a possible faint mound, 6.30 m by 1.60m by 10 cm high, along the north side of the interior. Thisresembles the interior platform of some of the Aughrissites.

Enclosure at Aughris, Co Sligo. –Photo Martin A Timoney

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At Cloonagh, on the next headlandnorth of Knocklane, there are circularenclosures (Timoney 2002, 59) whichwere used for drying seaweed withinthem and these are near paths for easyaccess to the shore; these are not inany way similar to the Knocklane andAughris ones. The Cloonagh oneshave high banks to prevent grazinganimals from tossing the stacks.There are oval mounds for kelpburning al Lisslarry, further northagain than Cloonagh, where some areto be seen near paths to the shore. Theresultant cakes of burnt material wereexported through Mullaghmore toScotland. There is no tradition ofseaweed at Knocklane and no logic inexplaining this site by attributing aconnection with seaweed to them.Kelp was burned up to the recentpast, rods are still dried on stonewalls, so why are the Aughris-typeenclosures not being used anymore?There are still strong generations oftraditions of harvesting from the seaalong this Sligo coast but there isnothing to link Knocklane withseaweed harvesting.

Timoney (2002), following on thework of Kitchin (2002) in the 1970sestimated there are about 250 but Dr.Liz FitzPatrick suggests the count iscloser to 500 at Aughris (pers.

comm., Sligo, May 2005). The sheernumber of these on Aughris arguesagainst repeated use of any individualenclosure. If they were for pilingseaweed, why make anotherenclosure when there were manythereabouts already? The solutionmay be by the testimony of the spade,but that should be by a number ofindividual archaeologists carefullyselecting from an inventory of thesesites. The shallowness of the soilstratification is such that perhaps,even with all the techniques that wehave today, excavation would reallynot give the answers. This may be yetanother argument for the long-termpreservation of these sites.

ReferencesFitzPatrick, Elizabeth, 2001: "The GatheringPlace of Tír Fiachrach? Archaeological andFolkloric Investigations at Aughris, Co.Sligo", Proc. Royal Irish Academy, 101C3,67-105.FitzPatrick, Elizabeth, 2002: "Aughris",Excavations Bulletin, 2001, 357-358, No.1128.Kitchin, Finlay Tower, 2002: "Note on Hut-Sites at Aughris, Co. Sligo", in Timoney, ed.,2002, 37-39.Timoney, Martin A., 2002: "Aughris,Portavaud, Lackan and Kilcummin", inTimoney, ed., 2002, 41-64.Timoney, Martin A., ed., 2002: A Celebrationof Sligo, First Essays for Sligo Field Club,Sligo, Sligo Fie1d C1ub.

Knocklane Head, showing two series of banks and ditches of the promontory fort.This enclosure is in the left part. The remnants of Knocklane Castle or Gethinsgazebo is in the right part of the promontory fort. There is another bank of thepromontory fort further back along the headland. –Photo Martin A. Timoney

Poet’s Corner

A PrayerStan Casey

Softly and sweetly the cool windblows,

O’er the untamed meadow thatforever grows.

Strange silence prevails ’midstthe ruins where they sleep,

While the fir and the elm sing adirge as we weep.

Just a short prayer for those thatare gone

As they did in their lifetime,while passing along.

–––––––––––––

Woodlandand EchoStan Casey

O untouched woodland Of my childhood dreams,How dear do I love Thy paths and streams,

Where Mother NatureIn her cloistered cellRe-echoes her soft strainsO’er valley and dell.

Ah blessed spotFull of charms to lease,Be thou my guideIn a world of peace.

And thus as I walkThrough thine ever-fresh flowersMy heart becomes lightLike all Nature’s bowers.

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Napoleonic Towers in Co. SligoMartin Wilson

THE BALLYMOTE Heritageweekend outing on Saturday 31st ofJuly, 2004, through Tireragh, theBarony that is west Sligo, included astop at the Rathlee Napoleonic signaltower. At Dromore West we passedclose to the other one atCarrowmably. Built on top of ahillfort, this tower is one of the bestpreserved of the original eighty-oneof these towers strung out along thecoastline from Pigeon House inDublin to Malin Head in Donegal.

THREATENED INVASIONSAs a result of several attempts to

invade Ireland between 1796 and1798, the British Governmentordered the construction of a coastaldefence warning system consisting ofMartello towers and signal stationsstretching from Dublin to Bantry toMalin Head. There are two of thesesignal towers still standing in theSligo area, one at Rathlee and theother at Carrowmably, DromoreWest.

There were several proposals forinvasion of Ireland with French navaland military forces, to be combined insome of these plans with those ofSpain and Holland, to assist theUnited Irishmen, founded in 1791 byWolfe Tone, to achieve anIndependent Ireland.

On 21st December 1796 the firstinvasion fleet of forty ships and14,000 soldiers arrived in Bantry Bay.Storms and gale force windsprevented a landing and after ten dayswaiting they returned to France. TheFrench expedition had avoidedcontact with the Channel Fleet of theRoyal Navy both on its voyage toIreland and on the return to France,emphasising the risk involved inrelying on naval protection to defendIreland.

After some delays and setbacks thenext expedition was under GeneralHumbert. Three frigates and 1,000men, including Tone’s brother,Matthew, Bartholomew Teeling andother Irish officers on Humbert’sstaff, arrived at Killala on August

22nd 1798. This small force joinedwith Irish insurgents and marchedthrough Ballina and defeated asuperior British force at Castlebar.They had further success atCollooney but finally surrendered atBallinamuck, Co. Longford, havingmarched one hundred miles in sevendays.

A small expedition under JamesNapper Tandy arrived off the Donegalcoast on September 16th and landedon Rutland Island. They had re-enforcements and equipment forHumbert’s army, but on hearing of hisdefeat at Ballinamuck they re-embarked. On 11th October anothersquadron of eight frigates underGeneral Hardy, with Wolfe Tone onboard, was defeated off the Donegalcoast and taken to Lough Swilly.

Robert Emmet’s rising in July 1803must have renewed fears of anotherinvasion as orders were issued forincreased defences.

THE SIGNAL TOWERSThe towers were generally of two

storeys, square in plan or with the rear

wall opposite the entrance doorwayincreased slightly in thickness in thecentre to accommodate the chimneyon this side. The towers at Rathleeand Carrowmably are fifteen feetsquare internally and the walls areabout two feet thick. The entrance isat the first floor level, approached bystep ladder. Directly over thedoorway was a machicolation, aprojection through which undesirableitems could be thrown on unwantedintruders, with two more on thelandward corners of the towers.There was a flat roof with a parapetincorporating the machicolations.The height is some thirty feet.

During 1804 the sum of £40,000was spent on the construction ofsignal stations. Costs varied between£600 and £900 each. The remotelocations of many had resulted intheir cost being larger than estimated.

THE SIGNALLING SYSTEMBetween 1804 and 1806 there were

81 signal stations constructed to actas a line of communication fromDublin to Bantry Bay and from

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Malin Head Napoleonic Tower

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Bantry around the West coast toMalin Head, with the messages goingin either direction. A line of signalstations was already in place, since1803, between Galway and Dublinvia Athlone. It was possible, in clearweather, to send a message fromDublin to Galway in eight minutes.Communication was by means of aball-and-flag system. A rectangularflag, a blue pendant (narrowtriangular flag) and four black ballsmade of hoops covered with canvaswere hoisted in various arrangementsto convey certain signals. The signalpost consisted of an old top mast offifty feet with a cap, cross-trees andfid (a conical wooden pin) to securethe thirty foot flag staff and a thirtyfoot gaff or spar set at an angle fromthe mast to which canvas coveredballs were hoisted.

The signal mast was positionedsome distance from the doorway onthe seaward side from where therewas a view along the coast in eachdirection to the next signal station.

SIGNALLING ALONG THESLIGO COAST

Here on the Sligo coast the signalfrom Creevagh, Co. Mayo, threemiles north-west of Kilcummin,where the French under the commandof General Humbert had landed in1798, was observed at Rathlee whichis nine miles further east. From hereit was sent to Carrowmably, somefour miles east of Easky. FromCarrowmably it was communicatedto Knocklane Hill, ten miles to thenorth-east, across Sligo Bay; only thelower courses of the tower stand onthe high point of Knocklane Hill, notin the promontory fort. The signalcontinued from Knocklane toStreedagh, from here to Mullaghmoreand from station to station until itreached Malin Head.

LESS THREAT OF INVASIONThe defeat of the French and

Spanish fleets at Trafalgar in October1805 removed some of the threat ofinvasion. By June of 1808 there weredifficulties in keeping signal stationsin repair. By 1809 the governmentdecided to abandon them.

Here on this section of Sligocoastline we have two fine examples

of those signal stations that wereconstructed two hundred years ago,yet only used for a spell of five years.

MARTELLO TOWERS ANDOTHER DEFENCES

The invasions also causedimprovements in the defences atBantry Bay, Cork Harbour, the RiverShannon at Shannonbridge andAthlone, the River Erne atEnniskillen, Belleek andBallyshannon, and at Lough Swilly(as a barrier to a French invasion on

Dublin following a landing on theWest Coast). Fortifications withoutthe assistance of large numbers ofregular troops forming a line ofdefence would not prevent a landingbut any delay to the invading forcewas of value in enabling thedefending troops to take up positionsto resist the enemy moving inland.

The Signal Towers should not beconfused with Martello Towersdating from 1804 and after, of whichthere are about fifty, mainly eitherside of Dublin, Wexford, on Cork

Aerial photo of Rathlee showing the Napoleonic tower with the Second World WarLDF post and an Ordnance Survey trigonometrical station of the 1970s. –Photo: Martin A. Timoney.

The Carrowmably Signal Tower. –Photo Paul Burns

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Harbour, Bantry Bay, at Meelick andBanagher on the Shannon and atGreencastle on Lough Foyle, etc., forwhich see the booklet by Victor J.Enoch (n.d.). Martello towers arevery robust defensive militarystructures capable of having heavyartillery on their roofs and these werenot part of the chain of signallingstations.

WORLD WAR II LOOK OUTAt Rathlee, on the seaward side of

the tower, we have a Second WorldWar (1939-1945) look out. Thesesmall buildings, built of concrete witha flat roof, were manned on eighthour shifts by three men per shiftfrom the Local Defence Force(L.D.F.). Their job was to report anyactivity at sea during this troubledperiod in our history. They keptrecord of anything washed ashore,which at times included bodies fromthe many ships which were lost in theAtlantic. They had a telephone linkto the local PO. Another of these

lookout towers survives on AughrisHead.

CARROWMABLYAt Carrowmably the signal tower

sits on top of a very fine example of alarge hillfort that dates from theMiddle or Later Bronze Age period(c. 1,400-700 BC). Once again, thissite was chosen because of thecommanding views it offered of thesurrounding area. Later still, in 1983,the same natural vantage area waschosen as a site for the water tower onthe Lough Easky water scheme,which provides a water supply bygravity for all of west Sligo.

MONUMENTS OF OURMORE RECENT PAST

County Sligo has a wealth ofnatural and man-made attractions. Itslandscape is an ancient one, one thatis well preserved and offers us awonderful variety of links with thepast. There are c. 5000 sites andmonuments pre-1700 AD and 2000post-AD to be found spread throughout the 700 square miles that is Co.Sligo.

The buildings mentioned above arejust part of our built heritage: go outand see for yourself that Co. Sligo issurprising!

AcknowledgementsThe information in this article is based on thevery informative book, Castles andFortifications in Ireland 1485 to 1945, byPaul M. Kerrigan, to whom dueacknowledgement is made. I acknowledgethe help of Martin A. Timoney with this articleand his aerial photos of Carrowmably andRathlee and the photo of Carrowmably byPaul Burns.

Further Reading:Craig, Maurice, 1982: The Architecture ofIreland from Earliest Times to 1880.Enoch, Victor J., (n.d.): The Martello Towersof Ireland, Dublin, Eason.Kerrigan, Paul M., 1980: "The Defences ofthe Shannon: Portumna to Athlone, 1793-1815", in Murtagh, ed., 1980, 168-192. Kerrigan, Paul M., 1995: Castles andFortifications in Ireland 1485 to 1945,London, The Collins Press.Murtagh, Harman, ed., 1980: Irish MidlandStudies, Essays in Commemoration of N.W.English, Athlone, Old Athlone Society.

At a Coursing Club Social in the then Hotel Dennette, Ballymote, 1969 or 1970. Back Row l/r: Martin Brehony, Johnny Lyons,Joe O’Hara, Tommy Henry, James McGoldrick, -- Gannon, Batty Cawley, Paddy Clarke, Frank Gannon, Bernie Quigley, MattScanlon, Al Ward, Tommy Lavin, Frank Meehan, Willie Porter. Middle: Dr Frank O’Harte, Tom Bagnalle, Joe Gannon, MrsQuigley, John P Kivlehan, Mrs Williams, Michael Joe Quinn. Front Row: James Perry, John O’Connell, Mick Gannon, TommyQuinn, Paddy Gannon. –Photo courtesy John Doddy

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Henry MorrisClare Walsh

I READ an article in "A Celebrationof Sligo" (1) on Henry Morris writtenby his son Ernan. I am saddened tofind how few people remember himin Sligo today.

In the 1920s he was a householdname. Living near Sligo, he was aNational Schools inspector but hisimpact on the public was through hisinterest in the history and folklore ofthe area, and in promoting the Irishlanguage.

He wrote regularly for the "SligoChampion", "Roscommon Herald",and where appropriate the "WesternPeople". Everyone looked out forthese articles and discussed them atthe fireside.

Classes in Irish were given by himin the evenings in the NationalSchools to senior pupils during, Ithink, the winter months. I know thathe came to Clohogue old school andto Drumcormack, travelling bybicycle.

He taught the Irish through rhyme,with its grammar. I picked up some ofit from listening to my brothers. Abook should be written about hiswork and contribution to the Countybefore it is too late.

His son states that his bookcollection was given to ColeraineUniversity and his papers toUniversity College Dublin.

One of the poems he used is givenhere:

An ndeachaigh tú ar chúirt inniu?Ní dheachaigh mé mar bhí sé fuarChuaigh mé arú innéSin é an uair a chuaigh méAr thug tú an gluaisteán leat?Níor thug mé, ní bhfuair mé ceadThug mé liom sean rothar tromSin é an rud a thug mé liom.

(1) Martin A. Timoney, ed., A celebration ofSligo, first essays in honour of Sligo FieldClub, (2002), 251-254. The article is entitled"A Northern Scholar in Co Sligo".

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Extracts from Freeman’s JournalResearched and contributed by Padraic McDermott, formerly of Roadstown, Bunninadden, now resident in Dublin.Supplied to Corran Herald by PJ Duffy.

Meeting of the freeholders of CoSligo Nov 15, 1771Gentlemen of property then in thecounty attended in person or senttheir sentiments by proxy.Present: Aurthur Cooper, WmO’Beirne, Harloe Phibbs, Wm Phibbsjnr, Roger Parke, Lewis FrancisIrwin, Henry Irwin, Aurthur Irwin,Lewis Jones, Charles Nesbitt, RobertPhibbs, Matthew Phibbs, JamesLeach, Michael Finton, ThomasBurrows.By Proxy: William Phibbs snr,Thomas Jones, Robert Browne,Henry Ffolliot, Charles Hawkes,James Knott, John Trumble, JonesIrwin esq. Lewis Francis Irwin in thechair.

Tuesday August 10th, 1784Stolen off the lands at Diroon nearBallimoat in the County of Sligo onFriday night 23rd of July last, theproperty of Mr William Brett ofDiroon aforesaid, a black horse about141⁄2 hands high, 7 years old, carriesboth ends well, walks remarkably

fast. Branded in the off-quarters withthe letters W.B. Had the strangles lastMay, thye marks of which are stillvisible on his jaw.

Whoever will give intelligence ofsaid horse (so that he may be found)to Mr Brett aforesaid or to Mr JamesHughes, Ballyderene, Co Mayo, willbe paid 3 guineas reward for horseand thief, and 6 guineas on convictionwithin 12 months. W.B.

Sligo August 8th, 1778We hear from Rathdooney in thisCounty that as the daughter of ashopkeeper was being forciblycarried off on Sunday night last by aset of young men, her fatherendeavouring to rescue her fired atand wounded three of them, one sodesperately with slugs in the arms andbody that it was thought he could notlive many hours. The other two werebut slightly wounded and werecarried away with the girl uponhorses by the rest of the party.

1775 Philip Percival, Templehouse,was appointed High Sheriff of Sligo.

MarriedMarch 15th, 1770. Thomas Holmes,

merchant, Ballimoat, to Miss AnnePhibbs.

May 21st, 1771. William Nicholsonesq., Castlebaldwin, to MissPhibbs, Boyle, Co. Roscommon.

Jan 12th, 1779 Rev William Phibbs,Abbeyville, Co Sligo, to MissAbigail Lloyd, Co. Roscommon.

Thursday Dec 3rd, 1812. DanielJones, Rathdooney, son of ThomasJones, Banada, was sworn attorney atHis Majesty’s Court of CommonPleas and a member of theHonourable Society of King’s Inn.

DiedSep 24th, 1774. James Knott,

Battlefield, Co Sligo.Nov 3rd, 1774. John Taffe,

Ballinaglogh, Co Sligo.Aug 23rd, 1770. In the prime of life at

Ballimoat, Mr William Holmes sonof Richard Balgarth, King’sCounty, a young gentleman whoseagreeable disposition renders hisloss universally lamented by hisfriends and acquaintances.

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Milk Harbour and its vicinityDr. Patrick Heraughty

MILK HARBOUR is a small tidalharbour in north Sligo. The name is atranslation which traces back to earlyCeltic times when it became knownas Port na Baine. The people weknow as Formorians generally livedon offshore islands and havingsubjugated the nearby mainland,imposed the tax, known as the threethirds, on its inhabitants. The tax wasthat, each year, the conquered peoplegave them one third of its crops, onethird of its milk and one third of itschildren. A time could be arranged todeliver the children and the crops butthe milk had to be delivered daily. Itwas left at what is now called MilkHarbour and was collected by theFormorians who lived on DernishIsland opposite. Dernish is Dair Inisand the ‘island’ is a tautological errorin the anglicisation (cf. Rue Point forRubha in Inismurray). Writers havestated that the Formorians fought atthe battle of Northern Moytura on theside of the Bronze Age people againstthe invading iron armed Celts. Acurious skeletal burial was found onthe island in 1990 and there is adescription and commentary on it by

Buckley, Buckley and McCormick inthe Sligo Field Club book, ACelebration of Sligo. Eight circularstones were around the skull in a ‘ringof glory pattern’. The suggested datefor the burial is early in the firstmillennium AD, and probably pre-Christian.

Milk Harbour is sheltered from theAtlantic by two small islandsDernish, area 115 acres, andO’Connor’s island, area 191 acres.The normal approach to it is by a longchannel between the north of theisland and Carrig Fhada, a longrocky peninsula on the opposite side.About 300 yards from Milk Harboura bar of sand and stone ran across thischannel and a boat could not crossthis until more than half tide.However in the 1960s strong stormsdemolished this bar and the channel isnow free at all tides. This channel isabout one and a half miles long whilethe entrance between Dernish andO’Connor’s Islands is direct but thetide must be almost full to permit aboat to cross. This is because there isa reef which joins the two islands andit comes very near the surface.

The McCann family live on themainland just across from MilkHarbour. They are still professionalboat builders and general carpenters.W.J. Evans Wentz in his book, TheFairy Faith in Celtic Countries,quotes long interviews with theMcCanns about 1911. Up to about1924 John McCann was postman toInishmurray. The delivery was oncein two weeks and the fee per trip was£1-0-0. John with his brother and twoother crewmen also took visitors toInishmurray. On one occasion, on thereturn journey, he took it that he coulduse the crossing between the twoislands. It was very calm and heknew that, even if he was a few‘inches’ too late, the boat could bepushed across the reef. One of hiscrew was John Frank, a well knownand locally well loved character. Hehad partaken too liberally of theInishmurray liquid production andwas sleeping soundly. McCann askedthat the crew to get out and push theboat. John Frank awoke andautomatically jumped over the side,but, on finding that he had jumpedinto the water, demanded to know

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View of Dernish Island from the Sligo-Bundoran Road –Photo Martin A. Timoney.

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who had thrown him into the broadAtlantic. The cold water abolished historpor and the boat crossed safely.

This passage between the twoislands raises the question as to whathappened the three ships of theSpanish Armada in September 1588.The ships got as far as Broadhaven onthe North Mayo coast but, mainlybecause of the previous damage totheir rigging, were driven back bystorm across Donegal Bay to theStreedagh area. The names of ports,including Portis Lactis – MilkHarbour, were marked on maps of thetime.

The Armada maps were very faultyas regards the west coast of Ireland.The west coast was depicted almostas a straight line from Donegal toKerry, such as the John Goghe map ofIreland, annotated by William CecilBurghley and dated c. 1567. FelipeFernandez-Armesto, in his TheSpanish Armada, The Experience ofWar in 1588, Oxford, OUP, 1988,266, has a map of NW Europeshowing Donegal projecting well outinto the Atlantic and indicating thathaving passed across the top ofDonegal it was almost straight southen route to Spain. In reality the Mayocoast projects well out into theAtlantic, preventing sailing directlysouth from Donegal.

There is a rock near the mouth ofthe long channel known as Carrig naSpán (? recte Spainigh) and locally itwas held that the Spanish shipsfoundered there. It is now known thatthe three ships foundered atStreedagh, south-west of O’Connor’sIsland, and are still there. It is quitepossible that those ships tried to enterthe normal channel to Milk Harbourand failed because of the bar or triedto cross between the islands withoutthere being sufficient water. The areaaround Milk Harbour is known asMoneygold (muine-dubhalta, a twoway crossing at Ahamlish marsh).Palmerston took an interest in thearea and had a school – Templemount– built there. Temple is thePalmerston family name. Perhaps the‘mount’ part refers to the long steephill up the road just north of theschool. Local tradition has it thatPalmerston contemplated building his

shooting lodge on Dernish but,because, short as it was, the crossingmight present difficulty, he built it atClaseybawn at Mullaghmore instead.

Milk Harbour is on the estuary ofthe Grange River which is tidal up toGrange village. In the early 1920s Ispent holidays with the O’Connors ofStreedagh and I have seen boats sailup the estuary, around high tide, toGrange. Those boats were fromDernish and O’Connor Islands andthe surrounding areas. People therefound it more convenient to do theirshopping by boat than to travel thetwo or so miles by road. Motor carsand lorries were in short supply inthose days. The Eccles family livedon the bank of the river quite close toO’Connor’s Island. They were thedescendants of Philip Soden, aCromwellian officer, who wasallotted a considerable holding in thearea. During the Fenian activity inthe 1880s it was decided to cut theEccles yacht adrift. This was done atnight by a group of four men, using arowboat. When the yacht was takeninto the flowing tide one man wasstill on board and was swept with theyacht, out to sea. Neither the yachtnor his body was ever found.Whether the yacht was moving so fastthat the rowboat could not catch upwith it or whether the man waspurposely ‘disposed of’ is stillargued. It was said that someoneheard him call from the yacht ‘that’sloyalty’. The man was fromCliffoney.

In later years the Eccles familybecame quite friendly with the localpeople and were good employers.They did assist with the importation,through Sligo, of arms for the UlsterUnionists but that was to be expectedfrom families in their position. Thereare two amusing stories of the family.One is that the Major Eccles of theearly 20th century one day when thestacks of corn were being broughtinto the haggard, amused himself by‘pinking’ with a .33 revolver, at therats which ran out of the partlydismembered stacks. The helperswere quite frightened but afraid toprotest. Eventually a rat ran up insidehis trouser leg. He had the presenceof mind to grasp the trousers abovethe rat and shoot it through the cloth.

Now one of the workers said "SorryMajor, if that does not stop we will".It stopped. His son, the last of theEccles to live at Moneygold fought inthe Second World War and attainedthe rank of Major. In the early 1970sthe word Major was chiselled off hisfather’s tomb. Suspicion settled onthe resurgent Republican party. Therelevant authorities made exhaustiveenquiries but got nowhere. Arepresentative called on the Majorand said how sorry they were thatthey could not find who did the act.The reply was ‘I did. He did notattain the title Major. He acquired it.’

Apart from Carig na Spáin and Túrthe beaches around Milk Harbour aresandy. That opposite Connor’s islandwas rich in cockles and good pickingwas available there. That oppositeDernish was a ‘tramming’ region.Tramming was an illegal method offishing. It consisted of theparticipants walking into the shallowsandy bottomed water holding anarrow-meshed net by upright stakes.The first stake was held at the water’sedge and the others were taken outalong the length of the net. Then theholder of the outside stake turnedtowards the shore, the intermediatesfollowing. This resulted in bringingthe net in a semi-circular sweep backto the shore. It would have collectedall that lay at the area covered by thenet. The catch was mainly whitebait, plaice, trout, sole and a few seatrout or salmon were also welcomed.If the law was reported in the vicinity,the team crossed over to Dernish –they knew the proper crossings – andhad plenty of time to conceal theirequipment and catch, if any had beentaken.

The sandy shore that ran alongCairig Fháda was a point at whichmuch wrack came ashore. Thiswrack, and sea rods, was collectedand having been allowed to dry wereburned into kelp. To burn into kelpstone fireplaces had to beconstructed. The stones had to becollected from quite a distance.These stone walls for kelp burning donot resemble the hundreds ofrectangular earthworks on Aughris.Despite being to Aughris many timesover the decades I never heard of anysuggested function for those sites,

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their history is lost in the mists oftime. Several of those sites wereshamefully destroyed with the help ofa Government grant.

Separate, in what was known as theWee Borough, there was an ancientmonument – Gairdín a Fathach, TheGarden of the Giant, almost certainlya passage grave or a wedge tombwithin a circle like that on the cliffabove Streedagh Strand. Severalstones which would appear to be thecircular outer wall are still there. Atradition tells that a kelp burner tookstones from the ‘fort’ and when otherssaw that no ill befell him, they didlikewise until the interior of thestructure had been removed.

My mother – born 1878 – saw thishappen in the early 1890s. A localstory that the boundary stones are thegravestones of members of theArmada is a figment of someone’simagination. It is of interest that thearea I have mentioned wasinclusively known as Carns. Thename Carns may derive from a

monument or structure off the Sligo-Bundoran road on the left as one goesto Sligo and on the Sligo side pastMoneygold, where there is amegalithic tomb, probably a passagegrave. In the mid-1970s somepersons did some digging here,including pulling up some of thekerbstones, in the hope of findingburied Spaniards. The local name,Gairdín a Fathach, indicates amonument of much greater antiquitythan the late 16th century.

Up to the second half of the 20thcentury six families lived on Dernish.Three were Mulligans and three wereGillens. I think that all those familieshave left the island. When I workedas a Doctor in Sligo there was a ladymember of one of the Mulliganfamilies, who worked as a nursethere; she had the most delightfuldisposition and consummate skill.One family owns all of O’Connor’sisland. The late Mrs. O’Connor whilea pupil at the Ursuline Convent inSligo heard the late Dr. Thomas

Costello – whom I knew – give a talkon Archaeology. She became quiteinterested and maintained her interestall her life. She found manyarchaeological artefacts, many ofwhich are in the National Museum ofIreland and a few are in Sligo CountyMuseum. She maintained that agood North West storm was her bestexcavator. Such a storm blew awaymuch sand and when she went outafter one she just picked up thespecimens. Her son Frank and hisfamily now live nearby on the mainSligo-Bundoran road. He wasDistrict Inspector of the Office ofPublic Works, working for twentyyears with OPW. He was President ofthe Sligo Field Club in 1990 and 1991and is a keen archaeologist.

When Garda activity made thelanding of poteen from Inishmurraymore difficult on the Maugherow andStreedagh coasts, Dernish became astaging post for its delivery. It couldremain there until a proper time for itsdelivery to the retailer.

Dr. Patrick Heraughty

The author of "Milk Harbour and its Vicinity", Dr PatrickHeraughty, sadly passed away early in July 2005. Born inCliffoney in July 1912 and for his first twelve years a residentof Inishmurray, he became a medical doctor and practised inSligo all his life. With a great interest in all heritage matters, he was with Sligo

Field Club during all its years and was its President for twenty-two years, from 1961 to 1983. He was Vice President of theRoyal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland from 1978 to 1981. In1982 his book "Inishmurray, Ancient Monastic Island" waspublished. He has contributed several articles to The CorranHerald. We offer sincere sympathy to his children, grandchildren and

great-grandchildren. May he rest in peace.

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MountainsMolly Howard

ALL my life I have lived within sightof mountains, mainly ground-downones, but still mountains. In Canadathey had been worn down by bothwater and ice. In England, and herein Ireland, glaciers had reduced theirsizes. Near my house, there are someclassic drumlins, the shapes thatglaciers produce. Nevertheless, theyare all made of rock. Some rangeshere, that I see on my way to Sligo,are obviously down to bedrock, asthere is still very little fertile soil onthem for the growth of greenery, evenafter a few thousand years.

I should also add the mountainsthat I have seen in Sri Lanka. Beingsouth of the glacial affected area,these mountains were still tall andragged - gigantic rocks thrust up intothe air as a result of earth movements.But they were also made of rock.

As a result, without realising it, Ihave taken it for granted all my life,that all mountains are made of rock.That is, until lately, when I visitedNew Zealand. The flight in over theSouth Island did nothing to disturbmy views on the subject. From theplane, the island seemed to consist ofa vast number of new pointed-topmountains. Even the little islandsdotted along the coast gave theappearance of upside-down V’s,mountains poking their heads out ofthe water.

Driving from Wellington toPalmerston North with the friends Ihad come to visit, my views andbeliefs with regard to mountainsbegan to readjust.

Much of the country was flat,really flat. Many of the rivers I sawwere wide and shallow, with anywater in them running through anarrow channel. I learned later that afew years ago there had been a greatdeal of rain followed by severeflooding. That I could well imagine.I didn’t think it would take a greatdeal of water before these wideshallow rivers were over-filled andwere flooding the surrounding flatcountryside.

The high hills I saw on the way

seemed to be scattered about,cluttering the countryside. They werenot the mountain ranges I was used toseeing, ranges that were basically alinked string of hills. These hillsseemed to be independently sited, inclusters rather than chains. Most ofthem were steep sided, ending in aflat top, as if someone or somethinghad cut the tops off. The more Ilooked at them, the more theyreminded me of something I had seenbefore. At last the penny dropped.

They were enormous sand dunes,solidified sand dunes.

While I was there, my friend tookme up to see a bank of windmachines, (which I also foundfascinating, being far less noisy than Ihad expected.) On the way up, hestopped a couple of times that I mighttake pictures as well as take a closerlook at what these enormous sand-dune-like hills were made of. I coulddo the latter as the roads were cut outof the side of the hill, in order to windaround them to reach the top.

Near the top, the make-up of the hill was agreyish, dusty white.Sometimes it changedgradually to a darker,pinky colour. Sometimesthe change would be sharpand well-defined. If Irubbed my hands on it, adusty-feeling materialwould brush off. I wishedheartily that I had found acollege course years agothat could have taught mehow to identify varioustypes of soil and rock –granite, basalt, limestone,sandstone, etc. The onlygeology course I everattended only talked aboutthings like ‘theCarboniferous era’ whenwhat I wanted to know was‘What kind of stone is thisthat I am holding in myhand?’ If I had I mighthave been able to say whatthese hills are made of. All

I can say is that it was none of therocks with which I am familiar andbehaved like compressed, hardened,fine-grained, powdered rock or sand.

The only way that I can think ofthat these hills were formed is only aguess, considering my lack ofknowledge in these spheres. To methey looked as if they were formed onthe floor of a shallow sea, a floorcomposed of sand, as so many of ourbeaches are. As the sea graduallyreceded, it left these enormous sanddunes, standing around lakelets ofsalt water, (the flat areas), whicheventually dried up.

Whether this is what actuallyhappened I don’t know but I wouldlove to learn. If anyone who readsthis is knowledgeable in theformation of lands, mountains andearth types millions of years ago,would they please get in touch withme, either to confirm my guesses orto tell me where I went wrong. Iwould be most grateful.

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Tubbercurry Square 1930: An old motor car isheading out of town in the Ballymote direction.Facing the vehicle is McDonnell’s pub, now theAllied Irish Bank. On the left is Roddy’s hotel, nowCawley’s.–Picture from Sligo Champion. Supplied by PJ Duffy.

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Joe More, The Landlord ofDoocastleThis account is taken from the "Annals of Doocastle and Bunninadden" by Martin Kellegher of Doocastle

IN ATTEMPTING to give you thelife of Joe More, better known inliterary circles as Joseph MilesMcDonnell, all I have to tell you is allI got from my parents andgrandparents and the old people whoknew him and even people who wentbefore him.

Joe More took over DoocastleEstate around 1800. He built a houseand married a lady named Lynchfrom Galway. The story of hismarriage is very romantic. He and hissister were travelling to Athlone byhorse and carriage through a part ofGalway. Seeing a crowd assemble,Joe at once sensed a duel was on andthe fighting blood of the McDonnellsstirred in him. He halted and went tosee how the duel would go. Therewas only one man, the other fellowhad not turned up. "Where is thecoward now"? he said. Joe said "takeyour time, he may have gottendelayed". He asked Joe "are you ahench man of his, would you take hisplace". "If need be" said Joe. "Thenchoose your weapon".

Joe chose his weapon and with anunfriendly crowd and none to act assecond but his sister, he fought andwounded his opponent. He was notwanted in the field so he hurried withall haste to Athlone, only to meet ahorseman coming at frantic speed.Suspecting he was the other duelist hepulled his carriage across the road."Get out of my way, I am going tofight a duel" said the horseman."There is no need," said Joe, "unlessyou want to fight a dead man". Hisname was Lynch, a landlord’s sonfrom Galway. He brought Joe and hissister to his home and they werefeasted for several days. Before theyleft the landlord agreed that Joewould marry his daughter, andtradition has it that she got the weightof herself in gold. Going on thescales to weigh herself, her father puthis big heavy coat around her. Butthe Lynches were not all sunshine -

consumption was a family failure.Joe More and his wife had 17children and he buried all of them.

Joe More was a colorful characterin Sligo-Mayo in the mid-nineteenthcentury. He had the life of a lord atthe time and the famine at its worst.Overspending, gambling, hunting,duelling, and meddling in the politicsof the day, he lived in a great housesurrounded by servants.

One of the first acts Joe More didwhen he became Landlord ofDoocastle was to clear a lot of tenantsout of what was known as the Barrackfield. I am told by old people thatmany had their rent paid, but theirfences were broken down and Joe’scattle were allowed to wander inthrough their crops. He sent thetenants to Carracastle to a districtcalled Shragh. Another family,McGoverns, went to Mount Irwin.

Joe More was mentioned as beingone along with Dan O’Connell ofRoadstown and Tim McDermott ofKilterragh and his four sons, whocarried the remains of Fr. Rush to hisresting place in Kilterragh Cemeteryin 1817. He was the first parish priestof Bunninadden formed by theparishes of Kilterragh, Cloonohill andKilshalvey. Fr. Rush, ordained inSalamanca, Spain, was a native ofBallinalack, near Killavil. The familywere evicted and settled in Gowlan.Fr. Rush was in Bunninadden for over40 years I often heard my father say,quoting his father before him. Hethanked the congregation for theChristmas collection which was takenup in his hat inside the door. Hethanked them with all his heart, asnow he could buy a pig that he couldeat with his potatoes for Christmas.

Joe More’s uncle was Bishop ofAchonry around that time. While weare talking about the clergy, I wouldlike to mention what I know aboutJoe More and the rebel priest calledFr. John Doddy.

Fr. Doddy was born in Roadstown

beside the present bridge at the river(Benson’s). Some say he was born inArdconnell, Ballymote Parish, but Imaintain he was born in Roadstown,because he and my great-grandfathergrew up under the same roof.

He showed brilliance at an earlyage. Educated in Maynooth, he wasordained in 1813. Early in hisministry he was sent to Collooney toreplace a Fr. Henry and while there, itwas brought to his notice that a childnot of the Perceval family but of a"scion" of the Perceval family wholived in Somerton, was very ill anddefied all medical efforts to cure himand seemed to be en route to thegrave. Fr. Doddy was asked if hecould stay the hand of nature and hewas credited with saving the child’slife. In appreciation for this, thePercevals gave him the site of aChurch in his native Bunninadden,where the Sacred Heart Church nowstands. This was before the days ofCatholic Emancipation. When Fr.Kane died, Fr. Doddy took over theparish of Bunninadden in the oldchurch beside where Fr. Doddy wasborn.

When he was appointed ParishPriest, he refused to take an oath ofsupremacy to the British Crown aswas the law at the time. After a fewyears, the Bishop of Achonry, thenBishop McNicholas, resented this andappointed a new priest to the parishand came down himself to drive therebel priest out of the Church. Butthe people of Bunninadden ralliedaround Fr. Doddy and the Bishop hadto flee the village. Later he sent downa Fr. Durkin to serve an edict on Fr.Doddy or in fact to ex-communicatehim. Three leading Catholic landowners, McDermott, O’Connor andJoe More took Fr. Doddy forcibly offthe altar. Very few of the peoplestayed in the Church to hear hissuccessor say Mass. Fr. Doddy leftthe grounds and went to where thepresent Church now stands and there

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he uttered three terrible maledictionsagainst the men who removed himfrom the altar. He said that Joe Morewould see the birds fly through hisblackened rafters and that he woulddie without one person to shed a tearfor him. These prophecies werefulfilled many years later.

In 1847/1848, Joe More hadbecome a member of Parliament. Hewas reading by his fireside an Englishperiodical, in which it was stated byan English critic that the honorablemember of Parliament from CountyMayo would have been betterengaged in keeping the cattle fromeating the straw from the roof of hishouse than making law for theEnglish people in the Mother ofParliaments.

Joe was incensed and threw thepaper into the blazing fire. Thestrong draft in the chimney brought itupwards and it settled on the thatchroof of Joe’s mansion and reduced itto ruins in a very short time.

Joe More and another BallymoteLandlord, Mad Jack Taaffe wereenemies. Mad Jack’s familyoccupied a place called Kingsforthoutside Ballymote from which he wasevicted. He then retired to Drimranewhere the Reynolds now live. Healso owned some property at LoughTalt called Taaffe’s Mountain.Although he was not a Catholic, heprovided funds to build the CatholicChurch at Lough Talt.

Joe More dispatched a messengerto Drimrane to challenge Mad Jack toa duel. Jack took the messenger outto the wood and he had with him hisrevolver and an auger. He made ahole in the tree and stepped back therequired distance for a duel and shot abullet into the hole he had made withthe auger. He said to the messenger"Now, you must go back and tell JoeMoore I am not at home".

Ballymote was a purely Orangetown. There were 12th Julycelebrations, the Union Jack wouldbe erected on Carrownanty hill tomark the occasion, but fenianism wasbeginning to creep in among thepeople and despite how it washounded down with bell, book andcandle, it resented the Orange menwalking through Ballymote. After afew unsuccessful marches, the

Orange parade was abandoned, neverto take place again.

During the 1840’s, the issuing ofwrits for an election was the nearestthing to the declaration of a civil war.On this particular occasion,Ballymote, a stronghold of theascendancy class, was up in arms.The Catholics were in the townholding a meeting and the OrangeMen wished to disperse them. JoeMore was either in Ballymote, or wassent for. He rode between theopposing parties on his grey mare andhe is said to have restored more peacethan one hundred soldiers could havedone.

In Joe’s time many famous visitorscame to Doocastle including DanielO’Connell and Fr. Matthew – theTemperance advocate. At a laterperiod, in his grandson’s time (MartinDarcy), Major John McBride andMaude Gonne visited, because if Joewas an imperialist, his grandsonMartin was not.

Joe’s father was buried inKilcolman, Ballaghadereen. Joe withideas in his mind and wishing to setup a dynasty of the McDonnells inDoocastle on the lines of RoyalHouses in Europe, got his father’sremains carried away in the dead ofnight to Doocastle. My grandfatherwas one of the men who exhumed the

body. The grave was pointed out tothem in day light and they were toldthey would have to come at night,because Joe More had sought noexhumation order. He did not tellthem the serious consequences thatwould befall them by exhuming abody without authority. Whether theboys were confused or got too muchwhiskey, they had to open the thirdgrave before they found the leadcoffin of Joe’s father. It was broughtdown to the big house and wakedthere at night and my grandfather cuttobacco at the wake of a man whodied 20 years before he was born.

Sport and gambling finally provedto be Joe More’s downfall. He triedto compete with landlords who werein a better position to spend moneythan he was himself. Two electionscost him an enormous amount ofmoney, and he was not re-elected.Decree after decree was taken outagainst him and he had to hand oversome of his property to debtors. Hehanded over most of his property inDoocastle to his son-in-law DominicDarcy.

Joe went to live in Dublin with aDr. Hughes where he died. He is nowburied in an unmarked grave inGlasnevin Cemetery.

–Supplied by Padraig Doddy

Pic 31 Jim Duffy, late of Newtown, Ballymote, is seen here sowing corn with aharrow and a pair of horses. His assistant walks ahead scattering seed from abucket hanging on his arm. The picture was taken at Ballinascarrow during the1920s on lands where the golf course is today. –Picture courtesy PJ Duffy

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The Irish Folklore CommissionSchools CollectionBridget King

IN THE 1930s there was a growingrealization that Ireland had a richheritage of customs and traditionswhich had perhaps been undervaluedin the past and which was in dangerof being lost forever if steps were nottaken to preserve it. This was the taskgiven to the Irish FolkloreCommission when it was set up in1935. The challenge for theCommission was how to use its verylimited resources in the mosteffective manner to achieve this. Itssolution was to put its faith in thenation's school children to collect andrecord information on particularaspects of the folklore and history oftheir own community. The resultswould be held by the Commissionand would be made available to all.

The project, in conjunction withthe Department of Education, tookplace in the school year of 1937/38.Although classed as voluntary, thescheme was part of that year'snational schools' curriculum andhence it was clear that every schoolthroughout the 26 counties (with theexception of those in the largest urbancentres) was expected to participate.

Each school principal was given abooklet explaining the purpose andscope of the project, a list of topicsand how the work was to beundertaken. Each week, seniorstudents, aged between 11 and 14,were given one of these topics ashomework. Using the guidelinesgiven in the booklet, the childrenwere to talk to their family, friendsand neighbours, especially the oldergeneration, and then write an essayon that week's subject.

The booklet listed 55 topics tochoose from, covering a range ofsubjects including local history andgeography, social and economic life,sports and pastimes, stories andriddles, myths and legends, festivalsand religious observances. The fulllist is given in the Appendix. Theemphasis throughout was on the

unique local history or 'living past' ofthe family and community.

Special copy books, with frontcovers illustrated with intricate celticdesigns were used for the essays andeach week the most interesting orinformative of these were copied intoan imposing bound volume. At theend of the project, both the boundbooks and all the copy books werereturned to the Folklore Commission(now called the Department of IrishFolklore) in Dublin where theyremain to this day.

The collection runs to 1128 boundvolumes and 1124 boxes containingnearly 5000 notebooks. This hugefigure illustrates the commitment ofthe children and their teachers andindeed whole communities to theproject. As is only to be expected, thequality and quantity of the materialvaries from school to school, nodoubt in part reflecting theenthusiasm and dedication ofindividual teachers. The samevariation exists within a schooldepending on the topic in question.Naturally, most people had far moreto say about spectacular events thatcaught theirimagination such assevere weather, greatsporting triumphs, ortales of giants andfairies than aboutwhat was to them anunremarkable part oftheir everyday life.

The bound volumesand the copy booksare stored at theDepartment of IrishFolklore at UniversityCollege, Dublin.County libraries holdmicrofilm copies ofthe manuscripts fromthe schools within thecounty. All areaccessible to thegeneral public, though

advance booking is essential at theDepartment of Irish Folklore, whoalso hold the copyright, and isadvisable at county libraries.

Many schools, heritage societies,community groups and individualscontinue to avail of this opportunityto research and publish the materialcollected in their local schools tobring the past alive to a wideraudience; others are researching inmore detail subjects only brieflytouched on in the essays; others areasking those who wrote the originalessays for their memories of theproject; and others are recreating theexercise in their own locality, albeiton a reduced scale. Thus, as was theoriginal intention, this projectcontinues to be an invaluabledocument for everyone with aninterest in social and economichistory at the local level. A huge debtof gratitude is surely owed to thosewith the vision and courage to initiatethe scheme and the children andteachers throughout the land for thefascinating record they produced.There has been nothing like it inIreland before or since.

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Appendix: List of Essay TopicsA Collection of Riddles A Collection of Prayers A SongA Funny StoryAn Old StoryBird LoreBreadBuying and SellingCare of Our Farm Animals Care of the FeetChurningClothes Made Locally Emblems and Objects of Value Fairy FortsFamine TimesFestival CustomsFood in Olden TimesGames I PlayHerbsHidden TreasureHistorical traditionHome Made ToysHurling and Football Matches In the Penal TimesLocal PoetsLocal HeroesLocal Roads

Local Marriage CustomsLocal Monuments Local HappeningsLocal CuresLocal RuinsLocal Place NamesLocal FairsMy Home DistrictOld GraveyardsOld CraftsOld Irish TalesOld SchoolsOld HousesOur Holy WellsProverbsReligious StoriesSevere WeatherStories of the Holy Family Stories of Giants and Warriors Strange AnimalsThe LandlordThe Local ForgeThe Potato CropThe Leipreachan or Mermaid The Lore of Certain Days The Local Patron Saint Travelling FolkWeather Lore

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Rural Days Gone By – Picturesfrom a Vanished Ireland

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Had Me Made :A Study of the Grave Memorials of Co. Sligo

from c. 1650 to the PresentMary B. Timoney

Full Descriptions of Eighty MemorialsWith Comparative Entries for over Five Hundred Memorials

Which Commemorate Past Loved Ones, Some the Short and Only Annals of Many a Departed Soul,

Others Monuments of National Importance, Together with Notices, Details and Location of the Graveyards.

The Styles of Artwork, The First Written Description of the Masons of Sligo

Who So Lovingly Carved These Monuments, Notices of the Families Commemorated, Their Lives and Properties Illustrated by Two Hundred and Twenty

Photographs Selected from her archive of Five Thousand Photographs,

Rubbings, Drawings and a Map.Backed up by 53 Special Sections,

A Bibliography of over 375 References, Over 250 footnotes and an Index,

With an Introduction and Analysis of the Artwork Distilled from Two Decades of Research,

Provided to Assist the Reader in Appreciating Those Memorials And the Many Other Memorials to the Dead of Co. Sligo

Of the Last Four Centuries.

With acknowledgement to the unnamed author of The Mysteries of Ireland, published in London in 1883.

The AuthorSINCE May 1984 Mary B. Timoney has opened up a new field of interest for the people of Co Sligo in the memorialsof the dead of the last four centuries, particularly their artwork. Besides encouraging us all to appreciate the art-workof generations of family memorials her desire is to get the people of Sligo to properly maintain the graveyards by moregraveyard-friendly means.

She received an M.A. in 2001 for her study of the decorated box tombs of the Skreen School of Stone Masons, theDiamonds, Flannellys and McGowans, whose works are to be seen from Drumcliffe to Emlaghfad, Co. Sligo, andacross to Co. Mayo. She has published many articles on memorials and graveyards, including some in The CorranHerald, and she was one of the editors of the Keash and Culfadda parish history. She has lectured at the BallymoteHeritage Weekend and guided a number of its outings. She served Sligo Field Club as Hon. Treasurer and as Hon.Secretary from 1984 to 1987. She is a member of the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland.

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Scholarly work due out November 2OO5

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Ballymote Sports in 1905David Casey

IN JANUARY 1905 a footballtournament for the championship ofCo Sligo was announced. The gaelicfootball championship was shelvedand did not begin until early 1906.

In the Sligo Champion January14th 1905, it was reported underBallymote Coursing club, "The abovewill hold their second meeting onTuesday January 24th, when 2 stakeswill comprise the programme- anopen stake for 16 all ages at £3 eachand an open stake for puppies at£1.lOs each - members 25s. To thisstake is added the Gore-Booth cuppresented by Sir Jocelyn Gore-Booth,Bart."

Ballymote St. Mary's FootballClub wished to receive challengesfrom any junior team in Sligo orelsewhere. The secretary of St.Mary's was M Clarke.

They played Sligo Friary United insoccer in Ballymote before a smallcrowd in arctic conditions, inFebruary. The teams were:

Sligo Friary United: Goal, MCoan; Backs, L Dykes, P Mulrooney;Halves, B Mc Gee, PJ O'Rourke, PKeighron; Forwards, Tom Scanlon(Captain), T Mc Lynn, T Gethins, PMc Gowan, and T Feeney.

Ballymote St Mary's: Goal, JCrehan; Backs, J Berreen, T Scully;Halves, M Sheeran, T Walsh, MClarke; Forwards, M Gilmartin(captain), M Conlon, M Wymsey, PFarry, T Candon.

Mr M E Gilgan acted as referee.The half-time score was 6-0 toBallymote and the final score was 7-1in favour of Ballymote.

The report concluded "thesligonians were entertained at MrJames 0' Brien’s by the home team."

A return game was played at Sligoin March. This time Sligo FriaryUnited beat Ballymote St Mary's by 3goals to 0 in a good game playedbefore a large crowd.

The Ballymote team: J Chambers;M Hever, J Berreen; T Hever, MSheeran, J Mulligan; M Conlan, MGilmartin, F Cunnane, M Clarke, andS Berreen.

They were entertained at P May's,Pound Street, Sligo after the game.

HURLINGIn a hurling challenge Ballymote

Emmets played Emlanaughton BrianBorus at Emlanaughton in March.Transport was provided by Mr BrianWimsey. Mr M Cryan was referee.Mr John Mc Govern entertained bothteams at Royview house.

Ballymote Emmets: JamesGunning, (captain), B Healy, J Fox, BFox, M Burke, J Mc Guinness, TBride, P Keenan, J Mc Glynn, T JHenry, T Mc Cluskey, J Davey, JFlanagan, E Mc Donagh, J Begley, TClynes, Tim Healy (Goal).

Emlanaughton Brian Borus: BHenry (captain), J Kielty, J Cosgrove,T Parker, C Henry, P Mooney, TKilroy, M Phillips, J Mc Dermott, OWimsey, W Snee, W Cryan, MFlanagan, M Creegan, M Lynch, LHannon, J Layden (Goal)

At full-time Ballymote Emmetswere winners by 4 goals to 2.

Ballymote Hurling club held ameeting in June. The agenda includedselection of a name for the club,election of officers, enrolment ofmembers, and any other business inconnection with the club. The nameof the club was "BallymoteShamrocks club". Practice matches tobe held every Sunday at 1.30 on thefair field which was purchased for thepurpose, it was reported.

SPORTS"A meeting was held under the

presidency of the Rev Father DillonCC, for the purpose of decidingwhether the annual sports would beheld. It was decided to hold them onJuly 19th." There does not appear tobe a report of these Ballymote sports.

Sligo Wanderers sports were heldin July. There were a large number ofentries.

T F Kiely, the world all roundchampion whose exhibitions inathletic events at the Wandererssports of 1904 caused such asensation in Sligo, was a visitor once

again. He broke the Irish record fromstand (without run or follow) forthrowing the 56lbs weight. Thedistance thrown was 27 ft and 1 inch.

In the 16lb hammer (unlimited runand follow), T F Kiely, Carrick-on -Suir, had a walk-over with a distanceof 138ft and 2in. In the 120 yardshurdles open handicap, T F Kielywon by a few yards.

HANDBALLIn Handball a tournament was

played in Lackagh in July andAugust. Six teams entered. In the firstseries of games Ballinacarrow, Boyle,Lackagh, Tobercurry, Collooney andMoygara entered the doublescompetition.

The final series of games playedbetween Collooney, Lackagh andBallinacarrow saw Collooney,represented by A J Durcan and MHowley, win the Gold medals whilethe brothers Peter and John Mulliganwon the Silver for Lackagh. MrHenry, N.T., Ballymote was Judgeand Mr J M Cryan, J.P. acted asmarker.

At Moygara, a handball gamebetween Moygara and Ballymote wasplayed in good conditions before agood crowd of spectators. Mr BBrennan, N.T. and Mr Barnes,Templevanny, represented Ballymotewhile the Moygara representativeswere Mr P Connolly and Mr PMulligan. Moygara won by 2 aces inthe third game.

FOOTBALL AND HURLINGThe Gaelic football and hurling

championships for 1905 were playedbetween January and May, 1906.

In hurling Ballymote Shamrocksbeat Coolbock Faugh-a-Ballaghs by1-2 to 0-3. The county hurling finalbetween Ballymote Shamrocks andSligo Wanderers was played in Sligo.The Sligo team were winners by 11points to 1 point after a more evenfirst half.

Ballymote Shamrocks: P J Henry,B Henry, T Parkes, J Keilty, JGunning, J Donovan, T Scully, P

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Scanlon, J E Tighe, B Healy, J Fox, BHealy, J Kelly, J Mc Manus, BCostello, J Mc Guinness, M Gilmore.I Scanlon, J E Tighe, B Healy, J Fox,B Healy, J Kelly, J Mc Manus, BCostello, J Mc Guinness, M Gilmore.

In Gaelic football BallymoteRound Towers beat BunninaddenEmmets after a replay by 6 points to3. They beat Sligo by 1-6 to 1-1 atBallymote in their next game.

The Ballymote team: J Chambers,B Henry, J Butler, T J Henry, WGallagher, B Healy, J McGovern(capt), T Scully, M Wimsey, P Farry,

J A Dockery, P Brennan, P Davey, MHever, J Snee, - Fox, J E Tighe.

In the county semi-final Ballymotebeat Dromard by 3 points to nil.

The county final betweenBallymote Round Towers andGurteen resulted in a 2-5 to 0 -3 winfor Ballymote. The Ballymote teamthus became the county championsfor 1905.

Ballymote: T J Henry (capt), BHenry, Mc Govern, Wimsey, Farry,Dockery, Hever, Gilmartin, Tighe,Brennan, Davey, Healy, Scully,Gallagher, Butler, Chambers.

Gurteen: Martin (capt), Healy,Doherty, McDonagh, Healy,McDonagh, McDonagh, Toolan,McDonagh, Nicholson, Kennedy,Goldrick, Davey, Brennan, Drury,Scanlon, Hunt.

Mr P Kilfeather refereed.

Compiled by David CaseySourcesSligo Champion, 1905 and 1906.SourcesSligo Champion, 1905 and 1906.

Sporting History:Bunninadden Emmets 1991From Sligo Champion May 23rd 1891. Supplied by Padraig Doddy

BUNNINADDEN defeatedStrandhill at Collooney on SundayMay 3rd 1891 to win the CountyChampionship by 5 points to 3.

The Emmets defeated Keash,Achonry and Tubbercurry beforetheir easy victory over the championsof north Sligo to reach the final.

The county secretary, JamesFlannagan was the referee on the day.Medals were presented to theBunninadden team following theclose of the annual mission, whichwas hosted by the Oblate Fathers.

Speeches were given by John 0'Dowd M.P. and James Flannagan.

Supporters were asked to go homequietly owing to the mission. Theexact words that were used were asfollows "There is to be nomanifestations of enthusiasmindulged in".

Bunninadden G.A.A. Countychampions medal winners:Andrew Marren (Captain), Pat Coen,Andrew Doyle,

James Gildea,Pat Leonard,Jim Davis (Goal keeper), Ed Healy,Pat 0' Hara,John O'Dowd, Tom Killoran, Mattie Marren, James Wynn,Thomas Leonard, Mike Preston,Mick Davey, Mick Marren (fly).

Ballymote Heritage Group 20th AGMWITH THE 2004 Annual GeneralMeeting, Ballymote Heritage Groupwas able to record twenty full yearsof existence. It was a greatencouragement to all members thatafter so many years the Group was asvigorous as ever.

In their reports, the officers wereable again to highlight howsuccessful the Heritage Weekend hadbeen. The Corran Herald, theGroup’s annual publication, had soldout in record time.

The outgoing Chairperson, EileenTighe, stated that since she had

occupied the Chair since 1991, shefelt it was time for someone else totake it over. Des Black was proposed,seconded and duly elected. He paidtribute to Eileen for her unstinting,dedicated and highly successful workover the years.

The membership of the Group, andits officers were then as follows:President: Gerry CassidyVice-President: Matilda CaseyChairperson: Des Black Vice Chairperson: Carmel RogersSecretary: Betty Conlon

Treasurers: Mary Martin & MaisieMcGovernPRO and Editor of Corran Herald:James Flanagan;Eileen Tighe, Yvonne Perceval,Maureen Egan,Anne Harrison, JackMartin, Esther Cassidy, AnneFlanagan, Paddy Horan, NualaRogers,Noreen Friel, David Casey,John Conlon, John & Marie PerryMary Black, Brenda Friel, MollyHoward, Michael Rogers, NellieJordan, John Coleman, CathleenColeman.

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The Arigna Mining ExperienceSupplied by Brenda Howley

THE Arigna Mining Experience is aunique community inspired initiativewhich records the history andexperiences of the people of theArigna area over 400 years, and theindustry which provided muchneeded employment, so necessary inan area of poor agricultural land.Regular employment was unique in arural area of Connaught in thenineteenth and early twentiethcenturies, and it was often said"There was money in Arigna whenthere was money nowhere".

This industry sustained thecommunity of Arigna down throughthe centuries and helped to protectthem from the horrors of the famineyears.

The possibility of developing aMining Museum in Arigna, Co.Roscommon first emerged when thelast coalmines closed in 1990. Thisproject is a culmination of manyyears of work by the localcommunity. As part of itsdevelopment plan for the area, thefirst Coal Mining Museum in Irelandwas established, where some of thefirst and last coalmines operated inIreland.

Since it opened the Arigna MiningExperience in 2003, it has welcomedover 32,000 visitors, an incrediblenumber of visitors to an area whichwould not otherwise be visited. All ofthe visitors enjoy the truly uniqueexperience and, with our greatestform of advertisement being word ofmouth, we have enough proof thatpeople are greatly impressed by theirexperience and are encouraging theirfriends/relatives etc to visit.

THE VISITOR EXPERIENCEBefore even reaching the

impressive building which isdesigned to mirror the slag heapremaining from coal miningoperations, the surrounding scenery isthe first wonder which leaves visitorsstuck for works. The panoramic viewacross Lough Allen to Sliabh anIarainn and the surroundingmountains is incredible, and regularly

visitors will spend some timedrinking in this wonderful scenery, atotally unexpected jewel in theirtravels.

On entering the building, thevisitors are invited to explore theexhibition area which traces 400years of mining history in Arigna. Anex-miner acts as tour guide and takesthe visitor into the mine. The journeyunderground is literally a journeythrough a life and way of existencewhich has been so authenticallyreborn through this amazing project,that one cannot but leave with a senseof having had a totally uniqueexperience. The tour is a fascinatingjourney through history whichappeals to all the senses and leavesthe visitors with an overwhelmingsense of the skill and dedication ofgenerations of miners in conditionswhich were extremely difficult.

The passion of the presentation bythe ex-miners and their descriptionsof a working life of unimaginableseverity can make a huge impact onthe visitor of today. The undergroundtour appeals to all of the senses, thecrunch of the ground beneath the feet,the dripping of water overhead, theintensity of the darkness in areaswithout lighting, the sheer sense ofthe incredible endurance of those menwho toiled here year upon year,totally dependent on each other tostay out of danger or even to stayalive. The sight of the cramped areasin which the miners lay on their sidesin pools of water leaves the visitorsamazed that such working conditionsexisted in comparatively recent times.The underground tour takes about 40minutes and the feedback to date hasbeen extremely positive.

THE BACKGROUNDArigna, located in the parish of

Kilronan, nestles in the hill country ofNorth Roscommon. Lough Allen, themost picturesque and beautiful of thethree great lakes on the RiverShannon, and the mountain, Sliabh anIarann (Iron Mountain) lie to the East.Kilronan Mountain rises to the West

and Corrie Mountain to the North.The mountains are covered in blanketbog while the land adjoining theArigna River is mostly rough pastureand low in fertility. To counteractthese disadvantages, down throughthe years a succession of industrieswas built based upon local naturalresources. These industries were vitalto the local economy withemployment in the mines reaching alevel of almost 400 during the periodof the Second World War.

HISTORY OF MININGThe Arigna area has a long

tradition of mining which dates backto the 1600s. Substantial deposits ofhigh grade iron ore in the area werecommonly found in "nodes" orrounded lumps varying from the sizeof a pebble to that of a rugby ball.This led to the establishment of ironsmelters by the Elizabethan planter,Charles Coote at Crevelea andArigna, fired with locally producedcharcoal using timber from thesurrounding forests. These"ironstones" were plentiful in thefields, ditches and riverbanks over awidespread area. They were dug outof the ground by men, women andchildren, transported over themountain in bardogs (creels), on thebacks of garrons (workhorses) andoften on the backs of the many whocould not afford a donkey or horse.They were paid two pennies for everyhundredweight delivered to the

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Arigna Mining Experience Logo

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works. Both iron works weredestroyed during the 1641 rebellion,and later rebuilt, but were closed in1690 when the forests were used up.

A search for alternative fuel led tothe discovery of the coal deposits.Iron smelting was then resumed bythe O’Reilly Brothers in 1788, whenfor the first time in Ireland, coal wasused in the smelting process.

While the iron works closedpermanently in 1833, coal miningcontinued intermittently during theGreat Famine and the Land Wars ofthe late 19th century.

Over the next 150 years coal fromArigna was used to heat barracks,workhouses, schools, hospitals,dwellings and to power steamengines. Local institutions firedArigna coal by hand or withunderfeed stokers, with many laterchanging to chain grate stokers forbetter boiler house performance.

MINING METHODSAt Arigna, the underground "drift

mining" method predominated. A"main straight" 8 feet high and 10-12feet wide was driven, laid with twinsets of tracks, from which a series ofparallel secondary tunnels or "slopes"5 feet 6 ins high by 5 feet wide weredriven, on each side of the mainstraight, with a single set of tracks."Branches" 4 feet 6 ins high and 4feet 6 ins wide again with a single setof tracks were then driven. Thesebranches could be up to 100 feet long.The roofs of the main straight, slopesand branches were supported bysubstantial timber props. The seam ofcoal on each side of these brancheswas dug out. A two man team of acollier or "face man" and "drawer"were "piece workers", paid accordingto production. The face man dug outthe coal, lying on his side in the seamwhich would be no more than about

20 inches high, using a short handledpick and shovel, with the drawerloading the coal on to a "hutch", orsmall wagon and pushing the hutchfrom the branch through the slope onto the main straight, where it waspulled by winch out of the mine andto the weighing point. The drawerwould leave an identifying item onthe hutch to credit the team for theirproduction. The face man was alsoresponsible for placing wooden propsto support the roof over the seam, ashe saw fit, keeping in mind that themore props the more difficult theshovelling. After the day shift, the"brushers" advanced the brance, theslope and the main straight to keepahead of production, using explosivesas required. New sets of rails inlengths of 3 feet, 6 feet and 9 feetwere added as the tunnels wereextended. Waste rock from thisdevelopment was also used aswedging to support the roof over theexcavated seams.

When the coal seam between thebranches was completely removed,the mountain gradually moved downto fill the space created, crushing thetimber props and grinding thesandstone wedging to powder. Thiswas a constant process with theconstant creaking and grinding noisereminding the workers of the constantthreat of the millions of tons of rockover them. A short few weeks afterwork finished in any area, themountain had reclaimed its space.With the introduction of the coalcutters in the early 1940s, they wereserviced by a "driver", a "haulageman" who helped to move the cutterbetween cuts, and a "pillar man" whowas responsible for roof support.

Despite the back breaking work,many young aspiring miners leftschool at 14 years of age, to start theirmining career at the simplest andlowest paid level and working up tothe difficult but best paid position atthe coal face. The work was ofcourse very hazardous, but accidentswere rarely fatal. Rockfalls bysections of rock called "bullets"posed the biggest danger and were thecause of many broken arms and legs.The wages of the workers dependedon their output of coal, but with theassistance of the coal cutters the level

of earnings required acorrespondingly increased dailyoutput per team.

In later years, and particularly inareas with too much water for manualworking, opencast mining methodswere used. Overlying sandstone rockwas broken by blasting, usingmedium diameter horizontal holesdrilled up to 40 feet into the rock, andremoved by mechanical means. Theunderlying coal was then excavated.

MINE OWNERSHIP: GENTRYAND LOCAL FAMILIES

Who owned and worked the Arignairon and coal works was always ofpolitical as well as economicsignificance. Back in the 18thcentury native families such as theO’Connors (Mount Allen), theMcDermotts (Ballyfarnon) and theO’Reillys had the support of WolfeTone in their industrial project inArigna. During the 19th century,planter stock such as the Tennisons,Lloyds and LaTouche were incontrol. It was not until the 20thcentury that they were finallyreplaced by local Arigna families. Asa result of a series of Land Acts anumber of families operated mines inthe townland of Rover, when thenames of Layden, Flynn and Leheny,Wynne, Bruen, Lynch, Lynn, Nooneand McTiernan became synonymouswith Arigna mines.

In these later years the mines weremainly owned by three families, theLayden family whose involvementcontinues today in the ArignaSmokeless Fuel factory, the Flynnfamily who remain in the quarrybusiness in Glenview Stone inArigna, and the Wynne family, whoare no longer involved in the industry.

THE INDUSTRY AND THECOMMUNITY

The positive impact of the industryon the Arigna area depended on theexistence, unique in Connaught, ofthe natural coal resource, theenterprise of the various mineoperators in managing and adaptingtheir methods to produce the coalunder very difficult miningconditions, and to the greatest extent,the legendary work ethic of the localpeople, who valued their jobs, leading Miner working on his side, as described

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to the widely held belief that "aregular job is as good as winning theSweep"!

To better understand the difficultyof the miners’ work and theiracceptance of their lot in life, it mayhelp to quote the author BrianLeyden, who in his excellent book,"The Home Place" gave a graphicdescription of life in the mine whichincludes the following:

"The coal-mines were tiny by thestandard of most industrialisedcountries. The men often had to lieon their backs in water, using ahandpick or short-handled shovel toget at a thin seam of coal under aledge of rock. It could be a three-milewalk to the coalface followed by aday of back breaking toil. You neversaw a ‘styme’ of daylight from thetime you went underground thatmorning until you surfaced again thatevening. They spoke an undergroundlanguage of ‘sumps’ and ‘gobs’,‘hutches’ and ‘clips’, ‘bings’ of slateand ‘bullets’ of rock, ‘caps’ fordetonating ‘spats’ of dynamite. Theyworked in teams: the miners, workingat the face, cut coal alongsideshovellers and drawers who took itout, and brushers who replaced therock and slate to keep up the roofafter the coal was removed. Theywere overseen by the firesmen whogave the orders. Monday was theirday off. Tuesdays were rough. Thepitmen were under no illusions abouttheir choice of career. As one coal-miner said: "The work was hard andthe pay was small, and no matter howlittle you did, you earned it all". Atthe pit entrance a red light burned ata picture of the Sacred Heart. Thecoal-miners blessed themselves atthis spot before they wentunderground. Strangers who visitedthe mines out of curiosity often foundthe experience of the mineshaft sofrightening they never got ‘past thepicture’.

The coal in Arigna produced noexplosive gas compared to English orContinental coal. But a job in themines had its dangers. Falls of rockwere a constant threat, and most ofthe time you worked alongside coal-cutting machinery in confined spacesin poor light. Every branch of everymine had its own noises and

subterranean character. The sheet-rock shifted and the pillars proppingup the weight overhead groaned andresettled. Water dripped. Voicesechoed. The compressed air passedyour face like a disembodied whisper.And beyond the glow of the lamps thedarkness was complete. It tooksteady nerves not to keep lookingover your shoulder, working aloneand immured in these black vaultsunder the mountain.

In spite of the dangers, fatalaccidents were few and far between.But if you worked too close todynamite and got caught by the blast,the fragments of blue-black debrisstayed in your skin a lifetime. After adeep cut the slate and coal duststayed in the scar, like route marks ona map of your days underground.

There were feuds and disputes overthe years and one prolonged andbitter strike that left the collieryworkers without a wage overChristmas. But the real problem wasthe quality of the coal, which in realterms wasn’t worth what it cost tomine. The Arigna coal bought tosupply the local power station atLough Allen had to be heavilysubsidised to compete with Welsh,English, Polish and Americanimports. The coal reserves began todwindle. The power-generatingstation at Lough Allen was at the endof its operating life. And the fate ofthe coal-mines was sealed"

IN CONCLUSIONSince the dawn of history

humankind has faced the challenge ofhow to meet its energy needs. Thisquest has always been aboutadaptation of innovation in the face ofchanging circumstances. At differenttimes, wood, charcoal, peat and coalhave been used for domestic heatingand in manufacturing industries.Developments in the Arigna valleyembody in microcosm this greatindustrial story.

There, as elsewhere, the search tomeet energy needs did not stop withthe closure of the coal mines in 1990.A plant making smokeless fuel wasopened and now exports to variousparts of Britain. The search for"clean" energy and for alternatives tofossil fuels has led to the appearance

of wind farms on the surroundingmountain tops.

These developments set a patternfor the future, yet they echo age oldconcerns and are driven by the samespirit of innovation and drive that hasbeen the hallmark of Arigna’s storysince the 16th Century.

• Supplied by Brenda Howley, ArignaMining Experience.(For the experience of one visitor,see Mary Kelly-White, "Eighty FeetUnderground in Arigna CoalMines", The Corran Herald, 37, 63)

The CorranHerald

Compiled and published byBallymote Heritage Group

Editor: James FlanaganDesign, typesetting and printing:

The Sligo ChampionCover design and artwork:

Brenda FrielWith this edition The CorranHerald has reached its twentiethyear. It can look back with prideon its growth into a serious andrespected publication whoseissues hold invaluable informationon all aspects of life aroundBallymote and further afield.

This writing is of course thework of many people who havecontributed, often over and overagain, to its pages. To all of themwe say a most sincere thank you–future generations will be gratefulfor your work.

Omission ofNames

THE following names of membersof Ballymote Heritage Groupwere inadvertently omitted fromthe 2005 Heritage Weekendbrochure: Yvonne Perceval,Michael Rogers, Nellie Jordan,John Coleman, CathleenColeman.

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Sri Lanka after the WavesFiona O’Connor

ON the morning of December 26th2004 people in South-East Asia werestarting their day like any other -going to the markets for food,opening up their businesses, touristslooking forward to another gloriousday of sunshine by the beautifullyserene Indian Ocean at Christmastime. Beneath the glistening oceanhowever, a different story wasunfolding, one which would result ina tragedy of epic proportions.

An earthquake measuring 9.0 onthe Richter scale led to an estimated30m shift in the tectonic plates in aregion north of the Simeulue Islandoff the Western coast of NorthernSumatra, Indonesia. Hours later, theocean destroyed homes, businesses,landscapes and literally washed awaylife itself in a number of differentcountries that were pounded by theresulting tsunami waves.

It is still not known exactly howmany people lost their lives in thatshort space of time. In Sri Lanka thereare over 38,000 confirmed dead;approximately 16,000 were leftinjured and a mind-boggling 600,000remain displaced. In other countriessuch as Indonesia, Thailand, Indiaand as far away as Somalia, peopleare struggling to come to terms withthis attack by Mother Nature.

I spent three weeks in and aroundGalle in the South of Sri Lankaduring March and April, 2005.Although I had seen the footage onthe television, read the heartbreakingarticles in the newspapers and seenendless images of the structural andemotional devastation, nothing couldhave prepared me for what I was toexperience during my trip. Drivingdown from Colombo to Galle threemonths after the tsunami, reality hitas we experienced the sticky heat andinhaled the strange smells of thiscountry which was so far removedfrom our homes. All of the volunteerssat silently in the van trying to take inthe horrific sights that were openingup in front of us. Fresh graves lined

the beaches and coastal areas. Tentswere erected on the foundations ofwhat used to be people’s homes.Bricks and slabs of concrete layscattered at the roadsides and in therelief camps where people weretrying to regain some sense ofnormality. Parts of boats lay onroadsides not having been movedfrom where they came to rest as themonstrous waves receded.

Initially I was extremelyapprehensive about getting involvedin the relief work. Selfishly, Iwondered how I would cope with thepsychological effects of such adisaster. After spending about tenminutes with the Sri Lankan people,however, such feelings becomeirrelevant. You become irrelevant. Iwas introduced to people who losttheir sons, daughters, wives,husbands, mothers, fathers, friendsand neighbours, all within a matter ofhours. I expected, even three monthson, that the survivors would bedepressed and struggling to functionon a normal level. I couldn't have gotit more wrong.

We were met with wide smiles andhands were thrust into ours ingratitude. People who have nothinginvited us into their homes and pliedus with hot sweet Sri Lankan tea andbiscuits. One family on the Dadallaconstruction site had five of usaround for dinner one night. Theremust have been at least twentymembers of their family eating withus, all staring and smiling as theygobbled the feast of food that laybefore us. The woman of the househad managed to cook the meal fortwenty-five people using just two gasburners in a make-shift oven out theback. They kindly provided us withbottled water, leaving the lid sealedso we would know that it was not tapwater that we would be drinking. Wewere also given spoons, an item notfeatured regularly at dinner tables inSri Lanka - the locals eat with theirfingers. A song and dance session not

unlike an Irish family get-togetherresumed after the meal. Simon, one ofthe volunteers from England,rendered a version of Bob Marley's"No Woman No Cry" and the localmen joined in clapping and singing.

Panic and fear is still visible on thefaces of the survivors. When Itravelled to Colombo I sat beside awoman called Shanthi Pinnaduwage,an English teacher. It was her firsttime to travel by train since thetsunami and she refused point blankto look towards the ocean, but insteadturned to face inland. She had takenher fourteen-year old son with her asshe was too afraid to travel alone.One young girl on the Dadalla sitetook me to one side and asked me if"... the waves will come again?" I feltso sad for her when I saw the sheerterror in her eyes. I said that theywouldn't come, and explained thatthey would be warned if such eventswere ever to happen again. Two dayslater on March 28th anotherearthquake rocked the ocean floor.The relief camps, homes and hotelsalong the coast learned the news of an"impending disaster" quickly and thePresident of Sri Lanka ordered anevacuation to higher ground.Thankfully, there was no tsunamicaused by this earthquake but theupheaval didn't do anything to helpthe already fragile locals. There'sonly so much a person can take.

One of the orphanages that I visitedregularly while in Sri Lanka was theSambodi Orphanage for thephysically and mentally disabled.There used to be 102 residents in thisestablishment. Forty were killed onDecember 26th, young children andelderly alike. Ironically, the tsunamiwas a blessing in disguise as it putthem on the map. This orphanagewould not have been used to manyvisitors or donations of aid. CliffSutherland, from Canada, workedthere for a couple of months andmanaged to give the place a face liftby emptying buildings that were full

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of rubble and rubbish and adding alick of paint to rooms that could nowbe used for recreational purposes.Volunteers also regularly bring badlyneeded fresh vegetables and otherfoodstuffs.

The residents were overjoyed tohave some human contact from theoutside world. We were smotheredwith hugs and the children fought tohold our hands. It would break yourheart to see them. Some have fairlyminor impairments. One man onlyhas a clubbed foot and has been aresident for many years. Anotherwoman sat in a wheelchair makingflowers from nylon tights and wireand appeared to be of sound mind. Anelderly woman sat quietly on her bedaway from the crowds. A newresident in the orphanage, she refusesto talk about anything but the "bigwaves". It is not known if her familyis alive or dead but no one has cometo take her home.

After the tsunami the governmentwarned that no funding would beprovided to rebuild homes that werewithin l00m of the sea. Since thesecond scare however, thegovernment have placed a restrictionon rebuilding altogether within thisperimeter. Many fishermen andothers who had lost their livelihoodsnear the coast have started to rebuildthemselves despite the futility of itall. Currently they are being forced tolive in relief camps in tents, manywithout ground sheets or mattresses,that provide little comfort. Thegovernment has been providing thepeople with 375 Rupees (about€2.80) per week for rations but thismay be stopped at any time.

In some camps, organisations areworking to implement a drainagesystem as the monsoon season isupon them and the heavy rainsthreaten to flood the camps makingconditions unliveable. Even before Ileft in early April, light rain hadmanaged to destroy some less sturdytents in various camps leavingfamilies without shelter for thesecond time in four months. There arealso various projects ongoing in SriLanka with the objective of buildingtemporary houses for the people in

the relief camps. These homes wouldtypically be corrugated metal wallsand sheet metal ceilings. Betweenshowers of rain these structures heatup like ovens and fans do little toreduce the temperature.

Tuk- Tuks, small motorcycles witha wagon on the back that carry threepeople, are the main mode oftransport in Sri Lanka. My advice toanyone who is a nervous passengergetting into one of these contraptionsis to hold on tight and shut your eyes!There are no traffic lights in Galletown and surrounding areas, andtraffic, both pedestrians and vehicles,weave in all directions at junctions. Infact I think the only rule is - don'thesitate! There must be a method totheir madness though, because Ididn't see any accidents in the threeweeks that I spent there. Tuk- Tukdrivers can earn quite a good wageand since the tsunami manyfishermen have taken up thisprofession as an alternative toreturning to the sea.

It will be a long time before thepeople of Sri Lanka are settled again.Tourists are already starting to returnto this and other popular holiday

resort areas that were affected by thetsunami but the numbers are apittance compared to previous years’figures. The stories about tsunami-affected areas are disappearing fastfrom the news and the shockingevents and images of December 26are fading as time goes by. It's hardfor me to let go of these imageshaving experienced them first hand.The faces of the people whowelcomed us into their homesoffering us what little they had willremain etched on my mind forever.One young girl wrote of herexperience and I keep the letter closeto hand for whenever I'm having abad day to put things in perspective.She writes "My father told us with allthe pains that although we have losteverything, we have not fallen. Wewill stand again".

Fiona O’Connor is granddaughterof Máire Nic Domhnaill Garbhaí, aregular contributor to The CorranHerald. She is pictured below withher grandmother at the launch ofMáire’s most recent book "Under theShadow of the Summerhills".

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Patrick McDonaghAndy Joe McDonagh

PATRICK A. McDonagh, known asPaddy the Carter, worked for fiftyyears for Gurteen Agricultural &Dairy Society from the 1920s to thelate1960s.

He started work as a helper withhis cousin Sonny McDonagh in theearly 1920s. Sonny was tragicallykilled when his horse shied at Carnbridge. After the death of Sonny,Patrick took over the whole contractof transporting goods for thecreamery.

The contract was the delivery ofthe 56lbs. and the 28lbs. of timberboxes of butter to the BallymoteRailway Station to be sent by railwayfor cold storage in Sligo.

From mid December until earlyFebruary, on the return journey fromBallymote station to the creamery heconveyed a load of two cwt bags of

fertiliser. These bags were loaded andunloaded by hand and had to bestacked to the roof of the shed of thecreamery.

The contract increased with thedelivery of 11 packs of butter to theshops. These pounds of butter wouldordered by the shopkeepers inBallymote and Boyle and laterBallaghaderreen.

When Gurteen creamery startedchurning the cream forBallaghaderreen creamery in the late1940s this meant that the butter had tobe returned to Ballaghaderreen andthe orders delivered to the shops inthe area.

This meant an increase in work andmore help had to be found. FrankMcDonagh of Gurtigara took on thisextra work and continued it into thelate 1950s.

In busy times up to five cartswould be employed. The work paidwell with earnings up to£60 a month in peak times. This workwould require 2 journeys to theRailway Station and back. The workrequired good horses and sound carts.

During the Second World War thevillage of Gurteen depended on thecreamery carters, who would bereturning from Ballymote empty, forprovisions from the Railway Station -particularly barrels of Guinness.

These workers were valued by theCreamery for their time keeping. Thelength of time it took to do thejourney depended on the horses. Thestrength of the horses was mostimportant. There was one occasionwhen the time record was not kept. Itwas during the war and the train ofcourse was dependent on fuel. Somemishap occurred and the town ofBallymote had no drink for a week.The drink eventually did arrive at theStation. In the excitement ofunloading, a barrel started to leak.The Station Master was called and hesaved the Guinness. A short time laterthe Station Master handed the mugsof porter around to everyone. Therewas no second load that day!

There were early mornings;carbide lamps were used for lightingon the carts. Bran mashes, oats,oilskin covers and frost nails in thewinter time were all essentialrequirements.

The social life was good with thewit of the Railway Station staff andthe Creamery too had its share ofcharacters. The Christmas boxes from the shopkeepers were always good.

Note:Andy Joe McDonagh was a member of NCFGurteen Advisory Committee in 1987, overseventy years since his father started cartingbutter for Gurteen Agricultural and DairySociety.

The above article, by courtesy of Andy JoeMcDonagh, is taken from a Gurteen CreameryCentenary Booklet, published in 1997.Article and photo supplied by PJ Duffy.

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Patrick McDonagh with horse and cart loaded with butter for Ballymote Railway Station.Also in the picture, Kathleen and Aggie Duffy, dairymaids

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Tom Shiels 1908 – 1963Camilla Morrison

WHILST he earned his living as a Farmer/Cattle Dealer, Tom Shiels’ firstlove was music. A highly respected and outstanding violin player andmusic teacher, he was a pupil of the late Mr. Henry Franklin, Sligo.

He played in dancehalls, at weddings, country house dances and KeashFeis every Garland Sunday. He also played at the opening of the Cinemain Ballymote.

He gave music lessons in the Ballymote, Riverstown, Tubbercurry,Killavil and Gurteen areas.

Tom's first broadcast on Radio Éireann was in 1940 when it was basedat Henry Street, Dublin (at the back of the G.P.O).

Amongst his pupils in the Ballymote area were Maureen Fallon, EileenRogers/ Tighe, Gerry Cawley, Fr. Berney O'Connor, MauraHealy/Devaney R.I.P., Mautie Butler R.I.P., Peter James McGettrick,Eamon Kearns and Nonie Gray/Sherlock. The majority of Tom's pupilsgot First Prize in various competitions including Feis Sligigh and SligoFeis Ceoil.

Some of Tom's favourite tunes were: Céad Mile Fáilte, Eileen a Rúin,The Blackbird, The Swallows Tail, Boys Of The Lough, Lark In TheMorning, Blackthorn Stick, Boys Of Blue Hill and Harvest Home.

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At a 1983 meeting of Ballymote Drama Club a cheque for £500 was presented by the President of the Club, Tom McGettrick,to Sr Roch, Vice-Chairperson of Community Care. This represented the proceeds of the Club’s recent production of "A Matterof Practice". Included in the photo are members of the cast and production team. Front Row (L-R): Nance Tighe, TomMcGettrick, Sr Roch, Mary Banks. Centre (L-R): Mary Rodahan, Mary Kilcoyne, Mary McGettrick, Alfie Banks. Back Row(L-R): Gerard Kielty, Pat McGrath, John Martin, Keenan Johnson, Victor Martin. –Picture courtesy Nance Tighe.

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Sligo v Mayo Boxing 1964Courtesy of John Doddy

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Céilí House Killavil, 1958: Back Row (L-R): Johnny Henry, Fred Finn, Dick Brennan, James (Sonny) Davey, P Coen. Frontrow: Boy Richard Brennan, Rev James E O’Hara CC, County Board Chairman Comhaltas Ceoilteoirí Éireann.–Photo courtesy Kathleen Gardiner, Boston USA, supplied by PJ Duffy.

What can be done … the old and the new. Ballymote Golf clubhouse. –Photos courtesy Mary Black

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My Schooldays in the 1960sColette Gildea-Noone

WHAT first impressed me startingschool at the age of five was the sizeof the two school classrooms with thebig windows as like most otherchildren in those times we came fromhouses with not such big rooms andmuch smaller windows.

We always waited with baitedbreath each morning especially on thecold winter mornings to see MissNangle's car coming across Annaghbridge and if for any reason shewould be late in coming we were onlytoo eager to head off home again.

At the start there were no flushtoilets or running water but in 1965the school got a complete facelift. Astransport was a problem in thosedays, some children having to walk along distance across fields and roadsto come to school, walking up toBallyrush hall for school would notbe an option, so Des McDonaghkindly gave his lounge for aschoolroom for a few months as thiswas in close proximity to our schoolin Annagh. This was a complete newlease of life to us as we had a toiletand rather than playing tig and hideand seek, we had plenty of crates ofempty bottles to play shop with.When we returned to the school afterrenovations were complete it was anovelty to have inside flush toilets,running water and cloakrooms.

I never forgot the day that yearwhen while out playing at Des's I sawan ESB van come to our house and Iknew then we would have an electriclight to switch on that night. Thenights in those times were passedplaying cards or reading comics orbooks and it would make such achange from reading with the smallsacred heart lamp and trying to sparethe lamp oil.

I also had a spell in hospital duringmy first year at school and so landed

the "parcel from America" withclothes to keep me warm and dry.When the postman would arrive withthe parcel on the back of his bike, theexcitement would be so that we mightend up not going to school that day asmy late father, Jack Gildea, RIP,being the neat tidy man he was,would insist on loosening all theknots of the twine on the parcel androlling it up to keep it safe andunwrapping all the brown paper andfolding it for safe keeping. The rest ofus just wanted to rip it all apart to seewhat each of us had got. My vividmemory is of me getting a pair ofyellow wellingtons to keep my feetdry and warm, with daisy flowers onthem and a matching coat and rainhat, can’t you imagine how mad I wasto wear all that to school!!! But inthose days you did not say a wordonly take what you were given withappreciation. In another parcel onesummer came a pair of those famousblack and white American shoes, butthe parcels from America were aregular arrival at the houses of thoseof us who were lucky enough to havea great aunt in America, never mindthe dollars that came at Christmas andEaster in the envelope which were aGod send to many houses, not justours, in those days.

School days were not all bad days,even though the cane got plenty ofuse.

We always looked forward to thevisit of the late Fr. Larry Lavin whowould come and tell us stories of hiswork on the missions and also not tomention the big box of sweets hewould bring which was a huge treatback then.

I vividly remember the preparationfor the School Inspector and theChristian Doctrine examination andboy didn't we need to have everything

off by heart for those days. The Maydevotions was also something we allwent to every evening in the month ofMay in Ballyrush Church. We allplayed along the roadside going up tothe Chapel, we climbed on top of theditches and generally made devilmentto pass the long Summer eveningwith maybe an odd disagreementthrown in.

My memory of my first confessionwas being taken off in the back of Fr.Killian’s Volkswagon car up toBallyrush Church for the big event.The highlight of the FirstCommunion then was the tea in thePriest’s house afterwards from achina cup and shaking with fear thatyou might break it. I especiallyremember the china cup as everybodydrank tea then, but I did not like teaand so I sat there and stared at this bigcup of tea as I was too scared to sayto Nellie Connor, the housekeeper,that I did not drink tea, I only drankmilk. I suppose I was very fortunatein those days to have aunts who camehome from England and Americawith a camera, so I have pictures withmy Granny and parents of all thoseoccasions from Communion toConfirmation which are wonderfulmemories to have as well as the oddschool photo which was a luxury thatcould be not afforded every year inthose times.

Finally Annagh school sadlyclosed the year I left in 1969 and sothe buses came on the road to take allthe children up to school inCloghogue N.S. at Castlebaldwin.However a few years ago the schoolwas purchased by Gloria & Danny0’Sullivan who now have itbeautifully restored and who alwayshave a welcome for any past pupilwho wishes to pay a visit and recallthe old school days.

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TownlandsClare Walsh

WE are told that the early settlersdivided the island of Ireland into fiveareas or cúige. Meath was the centralone but later was added to Leinster.We still have the word cúige used fora province. Over time and as thepopulation increased further divisionswere necessary. The ruling clans tookover certain territories where theirpeople resided. Tireoin, Tirconnell,Tirerrill, etc, began this way.

Within these areas smallerdivisions were made: tuath, treius,gneeve, tate, ceathrú. All these nameshave been obsolete for centuriesexcept where included in placenames, and wonderful to relate westill have them there.

With the Anglo-Norman invasionand later on with the Elizabethan andCromwellian plantations, differentdivisions were established, most ofwhich we have today. These areprovince, county, barony, cartron,diocese, deanery, parish andtownland. The local names weremaintained for convenience but withEnglish spelling "to make it moreacceptable to the English tongue".

The townland became the smallestor basic administrative unit. Theordnance survey started in 1842recorded 62 205 townlands.

"Town" translated from the Irish"baile" or "bally" meaning an area.Within the townland there could bemany other place names with theirassociated history and folklore.

The townland name could bedescriptive, like Drumderry, Oakhill,or historical or recording somehistorical event, like Lugacaha – theHollow of the Battle. The name couldreflect a measurement, like Train –Threen, Threenmore, Carrowkeel,Lecarrow, Quarter, Halfquarter. Itcould be called after a local clan, likeBallyhealey or Ballymullaney, orafter a later English landowner, likeFrenchpark. It could make use of anoutstanding feature, as in Carraig,Lug, Gleann, Annagh, Curragh.

Places of habitation feature too:Lis, Rath, Caisleán, Teach or Tig (forexample Lisdoogan, Rathmullen).

From the start of the Christian erawe find Domhnach (as inDrumdoney), Cill or Kill (as inKillronan), and Tarmon (a place ofrefuge at a church).

Each townland has its own history,some comparatively recent and othersgoing back into mythology. Placenames in the Highwood area referringto the battle of Moytura are still in usetoday: Lough na Súl, Seelugh,Ballinarry and Annaghgowan.

The late Bat Keaney of Threenfound in his researches into thelegend of Mananan Mac Lir that hehad seven daughters, all watergoddesses, and after whom somelakes of Sligo were named: LoughGill, Lough na Léibe, Lough Arrow(Arbha), Lough Key (Cé).

Today we are in danger of losingthis treasury of our nation’s past. Weare in the age of speed and moderntechnology demands conciselanguage, preferably letters andnumbers.

Rural Ireland has lost the small

schools, Gárda Stations, creameriesand Post Offices. These were therepositories of our place names atlocal level.

Northern Ireland has the Britishpostal system with its area codes ofletters and numbers. The Ulster PlaceName Society warned twenty yearsago of the loss of identity with thissystem.

Some places in the Republic arealready on the alert and have erectedplaques bearing townland names inprominent places by the roadsides.(Photos) This should be undertaken inall areas. The history and folklore ofeach townland should be collectedand stored in some local communitycentre where it will be easilyavailable to future generations. A lotof it is stored in Dublin but the effortof finding it discourages people fromdeveloping further interest in thesubject.

• Thanks to Marie Finlay, MaryBrehony, Frank Tivnan and TommyKelly for help and photos.

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John M KeaneyBased on material supplied by May Reynolds

JOHN M KEANEY was born in NewYork City on June 25th 1918. Hemoved to Ireland where he attendedschool. Returning to New York hejoined the regular Navy on July 23rd1940, and after training at Newport,Rhode Island, he was assigned to theUSS Boise.Following is an extract from"Guadalcanal – 50th Anniversary –History Book 1942 – 1992":

On December 15, 1941 put theU.S.S. President Hayes (APA-20)in commission at the BrooklynNavy Yard.On January 6, 1942 she sailed forSan Diego, Ca. via Panama Canal.On July 1, 1942 along with sisterships Adams and Jackson, theHayes sailed from San Diego, Ca.in convoy with marines aboard forthe South Pacific.On August 7, 1942 made the initiallandings on Guadalcanal.Took part in the occupation ofRendova on June 30, 1943. He wasassigned to Navy Base # 250 atMunda.He returned to the States in January1944 for school and newconstruction. Put the U.S.S.Bougainville (CVE-100) incommission on June 18, 1944. July1944 the Bougainville departedfrom San Diego, Ca. for thePacific.Participated in Iwo Jima andOkinawa operations.The U.S.S. President Hayes wasawarded the Navy UnitCommendation and seven BattleStars for WWII service; the D.S.S.Bougainville received two BattleStars.On July 27, 1946 he wasdischarged as Chief machinistmate.

The terse language of the summarygives little sense of the operations inwhich the President Hayes wasinvolved. In fact the ship wasawarded the Navy UnitCommendation "for exceptionally

meritorious services in action againstenemy Japanese aircraft, shorebatteries, submarines and mines inthe South Pacific Campaign duringthe following operations:

The Guadalcanal-Tulagi landings –August 7 to 9, 1942The Consolidation of the SouthernSolomons – February 8 to June 20,1943The Night Torpedo Action offMalaita – February 17, 1943The Battle of Rendova – June 30,1943The Battle of Bougainville,November 1 and 8, 1943The Landing at Guam – July 21 to26, 1944The Landing at Leyte – October20, 1944"

–quoted from the official Departmentof the Navy communication to JohnMatthew Keaney, 19 April 1949. It

goes on: "By virtue of your service inthe USS PRESIDENT HAYESduring one or more of the periodscited, you are hereby authorized towear as a part of your uniform, theappropriate Navy UnitCommendation insignia".

Enclosed with the abovecommunication was a Navy UnitCommendation Ribbon Bar.

John Keaney married Julie Quayleon February 11th 1947 at HuntingtonPark, California, in St MatthiasCatholic Church. Julie passed awayon October 11th 1967. John retiredfrom employment with the FederalGovernment in San Francisco in1981. He died on May 20th 1998.

• John Keaney was brother of the lateMae (Mary Theresa) Reynolds, anduncle of James Reynolds and MayReynolds.

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The Fair Day in FarnaharpyRecalled by Joe Coulter (From the Co Sligo NFA/IFA Golden Jubilee book, by kind permission)

THE 27th of each month, exceptMarch, when it was on the 30th, wasthe fair day in Farnaharpy in Skreen.We got up early in the morning,usually while still dark. Myself, myfather and Stuart would round up thecattle chosen for the fair. We broughtthem into the yard and gave them afeed. It was important their sides didnot cave in during the drive and thelong standing at the fair.

It was time to hit the road at 6am,as a good position at the fair wasimportant. The amount of manure onthe road was a good barometer of thesize the fair would be. The cattle setoff at a lively trot, the man in fronthaving a busy time slowing themdown and watching for open gatesand gaps.

After a while the fresh cattlecaught up with the droves ahead ofthem. From then on control becameeasier as the different farmers helpedeach other.

A lot of farmers had a dread ofmeeting a woman first when theystarted the drive and if a red headedwoman met you first you could gohome. My father liked to go half wayup the fair with a telegraph pole as amark. As we neared the chosen spotthe lead driver edged the cattle up onthe footpath against the wall andwhen they settled down they were

brushed up to make them look theirbest.

After this it was a matter of waitingand were the dealers good at thatgame! First came what we called thestick men. Those men offered wellbelow the market price but werespotting the cattle for the dealers. Ifyou had good cattle the dealers wouldcome and then the bidding wouldstart. This involved a lot of slappingof hands with neighbours splitting thedifference. The dealer would writethe price on a ticket and try to stuff itinto your pocket even though a pricewas not agreed. Another trick of thetrade was offering to buy all but oneof your cattle, saying the one left wasa plain old sort. As no farmer wantedto walk one animal home, thebargaining became hard and tough.When a price was agreed, a mark wasplaced on the cattle e.g. raddle or aclip of a scissors. The cattle were soldwhen the mark was made.

If the fair was bad, i.e. noworthwhile prices, we had to walk thecattle home again, feed them for afortnight and head off to Collooneyfair on the 11th of the next month.

A better price was often to be hadat Collooney as the railway stationwas there. Drovers or stick men werenot needed to bring the cattle to thetrain. The train transported the cattle

to Dublin for shipping or selling onthe Dublin market. One advantage ofthose days was you could go to thefair whenever the mood took you.There were no blue cards, no testing,horns were no problem, -noDepartment officials and no red tape.

It was hard work driving the cattleto the fair and standing all day withthem. Only the number of drovers onthe road made it possible to controlthe cattle. Standing all day was hardenough but if it was teeming rain, thebig heavy coats of the time soaked thewater and felt like a tonne weight byevening.

We went to the eating house for afeed and later a canteen used to arriveat the fair. A mug of tea and a hamsandwich were very welcome. Whenwe sold, if my father wanted to treatsomeone, he went to the pub and hada bottle of Guinness or two and paidfor the same for his friend. Thebarman gave him the caps of thebottles. These were passed on to hisfriend, who then left my fatherminding the cattle and presented thebottle caps to the barman and wasserved immediately.

I can recall those days likeyesterday. The pub had a shop to thefront of the premises and soundfriendships were made. Times wereso much simpler.

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Templehouse Bridge c.1923

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Forty Years on in CollooneyMary Kelly-White

I CAME to live in Collooney as a blushing bride inJanuary 1963. My cool and collected husband Mick was acarpenter employed at the local G.W.I. joinery, whichdecided the location. We lived in a tiny little storey-and-a-half house, one door, one front window, perched proudlyon the Sligo - Dublin road one mile from Collooney.

Like Romeo and Juliet we pottered about our cosy littlehouse preparing for the arrival of our first baby. The babyboy was born at Halloween 1963 but he had a congenitalheart condition and by 05 November 03 he had winged hisway back to Heaven leaving us with a saint and a soul butno baby to take home from the hospital. He was lay-baptised in the nursery and we named him MichaelChristy. The plot we bought in St. Nathy's cemetery,Collooney, cost £2. A similar plot would cost 500 Eurotoday.

From the small gate leading into my house I could seeSt. Nathy's cemetery. I even thought I could see our plot,which was in the centre half way up the hill. With nothingelse to do but grieve I took my bicycle and rode the mileor so down the N4 towards the graveyard to find outwhether my house was visible from the tiny plot. It was asunny morning. To my horror when I looked towards myhouse I saw what I thought was a column of smoke. Icame to my senses immediately, grabbed the bike thinkinghow foolish I was to be weeping miserably over the graveof my baby who was already happy in Heaven while hereon earth everything belonging to his parents was going upin smoke.

It was an optical illusion. I had forgotten that Kerins'two-storey house came between my house and thecemetery. What I thought was a column of smoke was infact the gable of that house. By the time I visited thegraveyard again I couldn't find our unmarked plot. Nowforty years later I'm doubling my tracks. There are threeinfant souls in our plot, born Angels, Ambassadors inHeaven, pleading with the Good Lord on our behalf.

Standing in the cemetery looking towards Tubberbridewhere our little house still stands (photo enclosed), I canonly see the developing Collooney Business Park wherefifteen enormous Industrial Units are under construction,the only one of which is up and running as I write (March2005) is Ocean FM, the new local Radio Station.

The forty years have taken their toll on me. I'm not theblushing bride any more. I still have a bike but needing theexercise I walked the mile from my town house to revisitTubberbride, and I took my camera. In the song Lamentfor an Irish Emigrant, the graveyard came between thewidower sitting on the style, and the Church Yard wherehe had laid his wife with their baby on her breast. For meand my camera, as the photo shows, it is the ultra modernDual Carriageway, and the Galway/Sligo/DublinRoundabout, which blocks my view.

But the sun did shine and I spotted a little plot oftombstones, too tiny for publication.

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The house at Tubberbride

View from Tubberbride

View from St. Nathy’s Cemetery

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Carrowmore MegalithicCemeteryLynda Hart

MEGALITHIC SITESNestling at the foot of Knocknarea,

Co. Sligo, lies Carrowmoremegalithic cemetery. The area is thelargest of the four main megalithicsites in Ireland. The other three areLoughcrew in Co. Meath, Bru naBoinne in Co. Meath, home toKnowth and Newgrange, andCarrowkeel in Co. Sligo.

From the geographical centre ofCarrowmore, the view is stunning.Benbulben in the north, theBallygawley Mountains, the Curlewsand the Bricklieves are all visible.The Ox Mountains to the west are theorigin of the boulders that were usedto build the tombs. They weredeposited around the countryside asglacial erratics during the last Ice Age(10,000 BC).

THE TOMBSThe tombs at Carrowmore are

numbered. In 1837, George Petriecarried out a survey for the OrdnanceSurvey, and numbers were assignedto each tomb.

It was generally thought for manyyears that Carrowmore was theyoungest of the four sites. It was atfirst believed that the builders of thetombs came from Europe and settledon the east coast, buildingNewgrange and then movingwestward to Loughcrew, Carrowkeeland finally to Carrowmore. Thehistorians believed that the societydegenerated as it moved west,accounting for the fact thatNewgrange was a magnificentstructure, whereas the tombs atCarrowmore are very simple in theirconstruction. Newgrange wasexcavated in the early 1960s anddates taken from radiocarbon datingsuggest dates of around 3200 BC,placing it the Neolithic or New StoneAge.

But excavations carried out by theSwedish archaeologist Goran

Burenhult in the late 1970s and againin the late 1990s were to reverse thisviewpoint. Dates taken by him atCarrowmore suggested very muchearlier dates, some going back to theMesolithic or Middle Stone Age, andat tomb 4, a radiocarbon date of 5400BC was recorded. With these datesthe archaeologists were able tochange the face of history, and it isnow generally believed that the tombbuilders didn't land on the east coast,but on the north west coast and thatCarrowmore was the first site, andthat the peoples then moved eastwardand as they built more tombs, thesebecame ever more elaborate ending inthe spectacular site at Newgrange.

THE AREAThe site at Carrowmore is set in the

Cuil Irra peninsula, between SligoHarbour to the north and BallysadareBay to the south. To the west isKnocknarea mountain with thestunning Miosgan Meadhbha orMaeve's Cairn. This is anunexcavated tomb, which probablydates to around 3200 BC.

Carrowmore itself has about 30tombs at the present time. There weremany more at one time, up to 100 andperhaps even more. Many of thesetombs were lost in the 1800s toantiquarians who literally plunderedthe tombs in the hope of findingobjects to add to their personalcollections. Many more of the tombswere lost to quarrying and to roadbuilding; these practises went on intothe 1960s when there was stillquarrying from the surrounding area.The site is now a national monumentowned by the OPW, and guided toursof the site can be taken in the summermonths.

TYPE & CONSTUCTIONThere are four main types of tombs

in Ireland: passage, wedge, court andportal.

The tombs at Carrowmore are

passage tombs at their simplest,usually with five upright stones(orthostats) and a capstone. At someof the tombs a line of parallel stonesleads to the entrance, hence apassage.

The artefacts found within thetombs are all very similar. Smallstone beads in varying quantities,arrowheads, and stone scrapers,quartz crystal and antler pins withmushroom-shaped heads. Also thetombs contained cremated humanremains, again in varying quantities.In some of the tombs excavated theamount of remains suggests up tothirty people may have been interred.So perhaps a family or a small clan ofpeople built a tomb and used it formany years.

LISTOGHIL

The central and largest tomb iscalled Listoghil (tomb 51). A largecairn of stones once covered thistomb. These were taken from thecairn in the mid 1700s to create stonewalls around the landowner'sproperty (1750 Land Enclosures Act).During the second period ofexcavations at Carrowmore it wasdecided to try to re-create the cairn tolook as it did in the 1700s. Work onthe cairn is ongoing and visitors canget a visual idea of what the cairnlooked like, yet they can still see theinner tomb.

Listoghil has carbon dates ofaround 3200 BC, making it one of theyoungest tombs. Evidence suggeststhat there were fire pits there longbefore the tomb was built, so ritualsmay have been carried out in this areawhich may have included cremations.

THE TOMB BUILDERS

The tomb builders were hunter-gatherers, and they lived off the land.The temperature around the time ofthe Mesolithic people was about 2degrees higher than it is now and so

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there may have been many morediverse fruits and berries. Also theywould have hunted wild boar, deerand other small animals. Those wholived near the coast or by riverswould have also had fish and shellfishin their diet. On the coast atCullenamore the archaeologistsfound huge shell middens, areas ofdebris from where the hunter-gatherers caught and ate shellfish.

There were no crops or cattle atthis time as it was before the dawn ofagriculture. Agriculture did not arriveuntil the Neolithic. There is evidenceat Listoghil that by the time this tomb

was constructed agriculture hadarrived. Under one of the largekerbstones that surround the tomb,the remains of an early cow werefound. So by about 3200 BC it isthought that the people werebecoming more settled and that theyhad begun to grow crops and raisecattle.

Some of the tombs have hadsecondary use, mainly in the IronAge, and at tomb 26 on the easternside of the cemetery, the bones of ayoung female and a small child werediscovered. These bones were datedto 90A.D (Bronze Age).

A VISITSligo County is rich in

archaeology. Carrowmore is just oneof many beautiful and special areas,and people who visit the site sharethis feeling. So if your interest isarchaeology, history or the beauty ofthe landscape, a visit will notdisappoint.

Carrowmore is open from Easter tothe end of September (also 17thMarch), l0.00 am - 6.00 pm (lastadmission 5.00 pm)

Guided Tours are available.

Cost of the Last Journey Home –Courtesy John Doddy

Van Gogh’sBedroom

Mairéad CollisBed made neatly,Light stirring through the

window,Candles lit,Pillows laid out nicely,Shirts hung on the end of bed,Tray on locker, water in glass,Cushion on chair,Nightgown hanging on door,No one in bed it’s a pity.

––––––––In the Maria Edgeworth LiteraryCompetition, this poem byMairéad Collis, aged 11 years, ofArdnaglass, Ballymote, won firstprize in Primary School Poetry.

SponsorsBALLYMOTE Heritage Groupwishes to acknowledge withgratitude the support of thefollowing who kindly andgenerously sponsor the HeritageWeekend:Tente LtdUlster BankBank of IrelandAllied Irish BankKeenan JohnsonFBD InsuranceMatilda CaseyJohn and Marie PerryMichael and Carmel RogersJack Martin

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Presentation to Eileen TigheAT THE annual dinner of BallymoteHeritage Group in the StoneparkRestaurant, Ballymote, on SaturdayNovember 27th 2004, it was the verypleasant duty of Gerry Cassidy, the

group’s President, to make apresentation of a piece of Innisfreecrystal to Eileen Tighe to mark theoccasion of her retirement from theposition of Chairperson of the Group,

and to thank her for all she hadaccomplished as an Officer of theGroup.

The thirteen years during whichshe had occupied the Chair sawEileen steer the Heritage Group fromsuccess to success. The annualHeritage Weekend has grown to alevel of excellence where it is ofnational importance and attractslecturers of national and internationalrepute. The Corran Herald hasdeveloped from a small 12-pagenewsletter type of production to asubstantial magazine that can run toover 80 pages; over the years itsissues have grown into a majorrepository of knowledge of theBallymote area, much of Co Sligo,and further afield.

Most of the credit for all this goodwork goes to Eileen for her planning,her foresight, her attention to and carefor the smallest details, and herenergetic and uncompromising loveof all matters of Heritage.

It is the good fortune of BallymoteHeritage Group that she remains acommitted member. They lookforward to her advice and inspirationin the years ahead.

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The President of Ballymote Heritage Group, Gerry Cassidy, making a presentationto the retired Chairperson, Eileen Tighe, at the Group’s annual dinner in theStonepark Restaurant, Ballymote. –Photo courtesy Jack Martin

This play, ‘Spring Meeting’, was directed by the late Jim McGarry, a frequent contributor to the pages of The Corran Herald–Supplied by Maisie McGovern

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Sligo winners in the 51st TexacoChildren's Art CompetitionThere were nine award winners from Co. Sligo in the 51stTexaco Children's Art Competition this year. They wereDarren Coleman from Gurteen, Tara Conlon from Sligo,Aoife Connolly from Dromore West, Elizabeth Corcoranfrom Sligo, Kieran Duffy from Rathlee, Roselle Mannionfrom Sligo, Ciara Schmidt from Strandhill, and sistersBridget and Catherine Timoney from Keash.

The awards were presented in the Burlington Hotel,Dublin, on 18th May 2005 by Paul Martin, Country

Chairman, Texaco (Ireland) Ltd. There were about 35,000entrants in all with 4,000 entrants in each of the youngerage groups and about 7,000 in each of the older ones.

The photos show Bridget Timoney with herwatercolour of a flower, Summer Rose, and her sisterCatherine with her painting done with watercolour andpencil of a cat Muckelty. Both girls attend art classes withSharon Huban in Colaiste Muire, Ballymote, and EilishO'Donnell in Strandhill.

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Paddy McDonagh late of Killavil, Ballymote, pictured holding his dairy Shorthorn heifer which won the ConnachtChampionship at Tubbercurry Show in 1954. As well as breeding pedigree cattle, Paddy in his heyday was also a well-knownathlete who gained honours at County and Provincial level. –Picture, from Irish Independent of 24/09/1954, supplied by PJ Duffy.

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Scouts Turlough Brennan

HELLO, I am going to use this smallcorner of this magazine to proclaim(let's just say) the good news ofscouting. I belong to a scout groupfrom Walkinstown in Dublin.Scouting started years ago (the early1900s to be exact) and is still goingstrong with the majority of countriesin the world having scoutingassociations. In fact, there are onlyabout six or seven countries in theworld that do not have a scoutassociation.

"So, what is scouting?" I hear youask. Well, scouts are a type of youthgroup that offers a range of programideas that appeal to the eleven tofifteen age bracket. I belong to the"Scouting Ireland" association and itis a member of WOSM - the worldorganisation of scouting movements.

My scout group meets everyTuesday for two hours, in which welearn skills that we would findpractical in the real world. Ropework, map work and using axes andsaws properly are some of the manyskills that we learn.

Our scout group has four patrols of

eight scouts, which include a PL(patrol leader) and an APL (assistantpatrol leader). These patrols areencouraged to work together inchallenges that they are set and theyare also encouraged to do meritbadges and awards. There are up toone hundred merit badges and thereare five main awards, which getharder to get as you go through them.The merit badges range fromanything like cooking to camping,from first aid to fishing and the listgoes on.

The five awards are the trackeraward, the explorer award, the starscout award, the national scout awardand the biggie, the chief scout award(the last two awards are great thingsto put onto a CV). I got the nationalscout award a few months ago and Iam currently hard at work on thechief scout award. A lot of effort hasto be put into the awards and whenyou receive them, it really pays off.

Now I must finish with the mostimportant thing that scouting is aboutand that is fun. If it was not fun thenthere would be no point going. So,

here, is an example of this fun. A yearor two ago we went to a hostel inArklow, Wicklow, for a weekend. Wesaw that there was a fountain in thecentre of the town so we pondered asto what we should do (as an act ofcomedic proportions). We made upour minds and we went to the localshop and bought four litres ofwashing -up liquid. Can you see whathappened next? Well the whole fourlitres were poured into the fountainand it started to bubble up like crazy.The next day the foam was blowingacross the street and was messing thewhole town up. The locals didn'tmind, however, this happened almostevery weekend anyway! So if that iswhat you’re looking for then there isa small amount of it in scouts. Andwater fights also! Basically a greatload of fun.

If anyone is interested, then joinyour local scout group. If there is nolocal scout group then set one up!

• Turlough is grandson of Jack andMary Martin, Carrownanty,Ballymote.

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94th Walkinstown Scout Troop. Shield Competition 2003. Turlough in the centre

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Ballinacarrow N.S. 1925 – Front row l/r: A Hannan, B. Brehony, S. Coleman (J), E. King, B. Redican, M. Redican, B. Henry,C. Keane, S. O’Hara, S. Goulden. Second row: J. Keaney, B. Melvin, S. Coleman (S), W.J. Melvin, A. Haraghy, J. Phillips, J.Reynolds, J. Lynch, A. Goulden, C. Phillips, F. Henry, J. Goulden, G. Jordan. Third row: M.F. McGrath, K. Davey (studentteacher), A. McBrien, M. Redican, M. Henry, M. Reynolds, P. O’Hara, J. Murrin, M. McGowan, M. Clarke, M. Derig, M.Gilmartin, M. Quinn (student teacher). –Photo courtesy May Reynolds

RIC Tynagh, Loughrea, 1913. Standing (L-R): Constables Moore, Hunt, Cryan, Callanan, Flanagan, Mawn. Seated: SergtBolger and family. –Picture courtesy Nance Tighe

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Ballymote First Holy Communion 2005 º Front Row l/r: Joe Cobbe, Paul McKenna, James Mulligan, Aoife Conlon, AlishiaGlavin, Gemma Gurrie, Jennifer Judge, Tommy Sheerin, Ciarán Anderson, Conor Healy. Middle Row (L-R): Daniel Murtagh,Clementine Drew, Nicole Martin, Alejandro Rierra, Denise McGrath, Gareth Healy, Angela Nally, Daniel Ford, Seán Golden.Back row: Ms Dolores Taheny (Principal, Scoil Mhuire gan Smál), Dylan Johnson, Aoibhinn Finn, Stefan Beirne-Hill, V RevFr G Hannan (PP Ballymote), Stephen McMorrow, Seána Davey, Padraig O’Dowd. Teacher: Ms Caroline Wynne. –Picture courtesy Dolores Taheny

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Ballymote National School 1924 – Front row l/r: Canon Tom Quinn P.P., Michael Joe Regan, Berty Mattimoe, Anthony Kelly,Brudy Timon, Alex Healy, Colly Healy, Anthony Healy, Andy Dennedy, Jimmy Mulhern, Jimmy Donoghue, Eddie McGettrick,John Barnes N.T. Second row: Dr. Frank O’Heart, Jimmy Taheny, Charlie Hogge, Paddy Duffy, Jimmy Meehan, Jim Heart,Paddy Brennan, Michael Joe Hannon, Luke Hannon, Jack Kelly, Gerry McLaughlin. Third row: John Connelly, JohnGardiner, Paddy Dockery, John T. Regan, Batty J. Brennan, Chris Healy, Anthony Healy, Larry McGlynn, Raymond Kelly,Tommy Healy, Noel McAndrew, Jerry Cryan, Charlie Eagan, James M. Gilmartin, Gerry Regan. Front row: EugeneMcDonagh, Jody Dockry, Michael Cawley, Jack Egan, Jim Hogge, Tommy Harnan, Paddy Harnan, Mick Hayden, PaddyRogers, Tommy McLoughlin, Ned McGettrick.

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KILLAVIL MUSICIANS: Musicians pictured at the Céilí House, Killavil, 1958. Top Picture Back row l/r: Johnny Henry, FredFinn, Dick Brennan, James (Sonny) Davey, P Coen. Front: Richard Brennan (boy) and Fr James E O’Hara CC. Lowerpicture: Patk Spellman, Peter Horan, Johnny Henry. –Both pictures courtesy Kathleen Gardiner, Boston.. Supplied by PJ Duffy.

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The front section of the Marian procession, held on August 15th 1954. It was on this day that the new crown for Our Lady’sstatue was put in place (see Alfie Banks, "Our Lady’s Crown", The Corran Herald 37, 58). The altar-boy carrying the cross atthe head of the procession is Michael Shiels, Corhubber. The usher at the front was TJ McCarrick, Principal, BallymoteVocational School, and the lady usher further back was May O’Dowd, assistant teacher Rathmullen NS. –Picture courtesy Gabrielle Shiels

Marian Procession 1954 : FCA Guard of Honour (Ballymote and Keash). Included in the photo are Packie Duffy, FrankieBegley, Keenan Johnson, Stan Casey, Andy Rogers, Harry Horan, Tom McGettrick, Dr T Taheny, Gerry Cassidy, Rt RevMonsignor PJ Roughneen (PP Ballymote), Dermot Collins, Mick McAndrew, Colm Barnes, Rt Rev Monsignor Blaine(Swinford), Joe Nolan, Noel McCloskey, Padraig Dockry, Eamonn Barnes, Vincent Jordan, Lt Willie Dwyer, Mercy Sisters, StJohn of God Sisters. –Picture courtesy Maggie Flannery