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The Best of Turkey
Just call Turkey the comeback kid. Having been stuck in the doldrums of terrorism,the Gulf War, the August 1999 earthquake, the September 11th terrorist attacks, andthe current war in Iraq, Turkey’s tourism industry is finally reaping much-deservedrewards. But it’s a fine line between rewards and highway robbery. On the one hand,a restructuring of the Turkish economy has translated into a whopping 9% growth inGDP in the past 5 years. Business is booming, the middle class is spending money,and foreigners seem to be descending on Turkey as if it were going out of business. Onthe other hand, the class of entrepreneurs making their living solely off of tourismseems to have come together and decided to make up for the combined past seasons’losses in one fell swoop. The result is that Turkey is no longer the bargain it was a mere2 years ago. Hotels that once quoted prices in U.S. dollars switched to the symbol ofthe € (representing a 21% increase); in Istanbul, Cappadocia and in other popularregions, even this decrease in value has been compounded by further increases. For vis-itors wielding euros, Turkey is still very much an affordable destination. But for Amer-icans paying in the pathetic dollar, Turkey is anything but a good value. So now youask, is it worth it?
Absolutely. But you’ll need to find the right balance. Traveling off-season will giveyou the strongest bargaining power. But you may also have to settle for less than top-of-the-line luxury in your accommodations, avoid the tourist traps, and forego thatsunrise balloon ride over Cappadocia. If you do, I guarantee that you’ll soon see whypeople who know just can’t get enough of Turkey.
The magic of Turkey bubbles over in its history, culture, gastronomy, humanity,exotic nature, and commerce. Turkey bills itself, and rightfully so, as the “Cradle ofCivilization,” boasting more Greek ruins than Greece and more Roman archaeologi-cal sites than all of Italy. Turkey is also a major custodian of sacred sites revered byChristians, Jews, and Muslims alike, and of invaluable remnants of early Greek civi-lization, Byzantine majesty, and Ottoman culture and artistry. But, while most touristbrochures zone in on archaeological ruins and artistic masterpieces, few devote theappropriate space to the magnificence of Turkey’s Mediterranean, its self-indulgentpleasures (imagine basking in a mineral mud bath), or the wide array of choices avail-able for nature lovers and sports enthusiasts. Turkey is a singularly unique country, stillunspoiled and innocent, and pleasantly surprised by the fact that visitors come fromfar and wide to witness its way of life. It’s all rather disarming to travelers who’ve vis-ited other parts of the world, where crowds of rubbernecking, Bermuda shorts–wear-ing, camera-sporting arrivals elicit exclamations of “damned tourists.” Turks welcometheir guests with a genuineness of spirit and boundless generosity that defies superla-tives. This from a population in which 80% of the people can’t afford meat and wherethe native language provides no word for “bitter.” Truly, until you experience Turkishhospitality, you’ve barely broken the surface of what generosity can be.
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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F T U R K E Y6
Turkey is so densely packed with riches of every kind that the most difficult deci-sion will be what not to see. I found it difficult to write this book without making itsound like a press release, because the country is so superlative and the culture so con-trary to what you’d expect. You’ll soon see for yourselves why nobody leaves Turkeywith a lukewarm impression. Face it; there’s no way to see it all. So this book attemptsto sort through the absolute essentials of a first-time visit, providing an introductionto a country and culture you will surely want to revisit.
1 The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences• Taking a Hamam: The Turkish bath,
rising out of the Islamic requirementof cleanliness, is not just practical, it’sa minivacation. A good hamam expe-rience includes the proper traditionalambience and a heavy-handed scrub-bing. For historical value and pomp,you can’t beat the Çemberlita@Hamami (p. 120), or for luxury, theone at Istanbul’s Ritz-Carlton (p. 85), which comes with the heftycharge of 40€ ($50) for privateaccess for non-guests on weekdays;52€ ($63) on weekends (fee includesuse of the fitness center, swimmingpool, sauna, Jacuzzi and hamam).The lounge area of the men’s sectionin the Yeni Kaplica (p. 163) in Bursaand the Talya Hotel (p. 312) inAntalya are fabulously decorated withsome of the most gorgeous wooddetails; you’ll feel like royalty. TheQueen Mother of all luxury hamams,however, is the sky-lit and picture-windowed marble hamam at the AdaHotel (p. 241) in Türkbükü, outsideof Bodrum, by candlelight.
• Sharing Tea with the Locals: Tea isat the center of Turkish culture; nosignificant negotiation takes placewithout some. But more than com-merce, tea stops the hands of time inTurkey; it renews the bonds of friendsand family. Having tea is inevitable,as is the invitation to share a glasswith a total stranger. Accept the invi-tation: There’s more in the glass thanjust a beverage.
• Soaking in a Thermal Pool: Some-times Turkey seems like one bigopen-air spa; chemically rich watersbubble up from below while frigidspring water rushes down fromabove. The Çe@me Peninsula seemslike one big hot bath, and a wholeslew of brand-new luxury facilities arewilling to accommodate (see “High-lights of the Çe@me Peninsula,” inchapter 6). In the Sacred Pool ofHierapolis at the Pamukkale Ther-mal (p. 227), you swim amid thedetritus of ancient civilizations as sul-fur bubbles tingle your skin. Bursa’sÇelik Palas Hotel (p. 160) has adomed pool hot enough to makeyour knees weak. Down the road atthe Kervansaray Termal Hotel (p. 161), the pools of running waterare enclosed in a 700-year-old origi-nal hamam.
• Discovering the Covered Bazaar:Nobody should pass through Turkeywithout spending a day at the motherof all shopping malls. The atmos-phere crackles with the electricity ofthe hunt—but are you the hunter orthe hunted? The excitement is tangi-ble, even if you’re on the trail of asimple pair of elf shoes or an evil-eyetalisman. It’s the disciplined shopperwho gets out unscathed. See “Shop-ping” in chapter 4.
• Riding the Ferry Across the Dard-anelles: Wars were fought for controlof these straits. And thanks to a longline of steadfast Turks, you and I can
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sit back and enjoy the breezes, thehigh cliffs, and the fortresses thathelped win the battle—and leave ourpassports back at the hotel. See “Gal-lipoli (Gelibolu)” in chapter 5.
• Cruising the Turquoise Coast:Words just don’t do this justice.Aboard a wooden gulet (traditionalbroad-beamed boat), you drift pastmajestic mountains, undiscoveredruins, and impossibly azure waters, asthe sun caresses your skin from sun-rise to sunset. In this environmentthe morning aroma of Nescafe takeson an almost pleasant quality whenenjoyed on deck, anchored just off-shore a pine-enclosed inlet. By 9amyou’re diving off the rail and cursingthe day it all has to end. See “AllAbout the Blue Voyage” on p. 40.
• Paragliding over Ölüdeniz: There’sno better place in the world than thesurging summit of Babadag for this
wildly exhilarating and terrifyingsport. For 15 brief minutes, you’reflying high above the magnificentturquoise waters of Ölüdeniz withthe mountains in the foreground.The safety factor? Not to be underes-timated, but hey, that nice body ofwater should help break your fall. See“Fethiye & Ölüdeniz” in chapter 7.
• Settling into Turkish Style: Asnomads, the Turks communed onhome-woven cushions and kilims intheir tents. The Ottomans continuedthe tradition of @ark (Oriental) seat-ing, and now every tourist destina-tion thinks that’s what we want.They’re right. We want kilims, sad-dles, cushions, and low copper tables.The best ones are cozy and atmos-pheric: the poolside @ark at the Mon-tana Pine Resort (p. 276); theopen-air @ark shaded by trees at Yaka
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F T U R K E Y8
Midnight Express: Fact or Fiction?
The 1978 movie Midnight Express, directed by Alan Parker and scripted byOliver Stone, elicits strong resentment in Turkey for the portrayal of BillyHayes, who, in spite of a well-publicized crackdown on drug smuggling,took a dumb risk and lost. The movie, which won the director an Oscar, is ahideously graphic (and mostly fictional) account of human rights violationsin a Turkish prison. The truth is that the real Billy Hayes acknowledges theinaccuracy of many of the scenes in the movie; he was in a low-securityprison, and no guard was killed in order for him to escape. Actually, theTurkish government released him.
The name of the movie derives from the midnight train service fromIstanbul to Edirne, which, at the time, briefly traveled through Greek terri-tory. During the 1960s and 1970s, the Turkish government reacted to inter-national criticism (particularly from the U.S.) of its harsh sentencingguidelines with a discreet and diplomatic trick. Foreigners convicted ofdrug-related offenses were divested of their passports and released duringappeal. Then they were quietly ushered onto the Midnight Express train,where, once in Greece (and with the complicity of Greek guards on thetrain), they hopped off the train and were jailed until they could obtainnew passports from their consulates. The Turks were thus able to maintaina hard-line stance without jeopardizing diplomatic relations.
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Park (p. 269); or the natural air-con-ditioning of the platform @arks ofHidden Paradise Restaurant at Sak-likent Gorge, where the ice-coldwaters of a mountain spring rushunderneath (see “Fethiye & Ölüd-eniz” in chapter 7).
• Ballooning over Cappadocia:Watch this surreal landscape changecharacter right before your eyes: In amatter of minutes, the sun rises overthe cliffs, valleys, and ravines, andcolors morph from hazy blue toorange, pink, and finally yellow. Thecapper? A post-flight champagne
breakfast. See “Exploring the Region”in chapter 8.
• Spending the Night in a Cave: Theceilings are low, the light is dim, andthere are niches in the wall for youralarm clock—this is the troglodytelife as the Cappadocians lived it forthousands of years. Some of these“cave hotels” are rudimentary, othersextravagant; but all are cool in sum-mer, warm in winter, and as still asthe daybreak. Among the best:Esbelli Evi (p. 328) and YunakEvleri (p. 329), both in Ürgüp, andGamirasu (p. 330) in Ayvali.
T H E B E S T S M A L L TO W N S 9
2 The Best Small Towns• Bergama: The soul of this village is
the marketplace. Donkeys and theirowners are parked next to stalls offresh produce. Carpets hang from theawnings of old village houses aroundthe Red Basilica to create a bit ofshade from the hot sun. And only afew hundred yards away is Perga-mum, one of the finest archaeologicalsites of antiquity. See “Bergama” inchapter 5.
• Alaçati: A hilltop mound of wind-mills and 800-year-old Selçuk barrel-houses guard the entrance to the tinyAegean village of Alaçati. So close tothe sea, and yet so far . . . See “High-lights of the Çe@me Peninsula” inchapter 6.
• !irince: Originally a sanctuary forGreeks in the dying days of Ephesus,this dense hillside of preserved housesenclosed within a landscape of grapeorchards is the perfect antidote to anoverdose of archaeological sites. Abottle of local wine enjoyed amid theatmosphere of a former schoolhousehelps the medicine go down, too. Seep. 204.
• Gümü@lük: The chance to walk onwater—or nearly so—thanks to thesunken city walls of ancient Myndos;
what more could one want? Howabout an undiscovered enclosed bay,a sandy beach, and characteristicwaterfront fish shacks. See “Bodrum”in chapter 6.
• Karmylassos/Kayaköy: Hauntingpanoramas of lives interrupted blan-ket the hillside of this once-thrivingGreek settlement, abandoned duringthe 1924 population exchangebetween Turkey and Greece. Ratherthan reinhabit the houses—nowcrumbling and roofless—local Turk-ish residents have settled in therolling and fertile plains of the sur-rounding valley. See p. 268.
• Kalkan: An influx of expatriates hasput this little merchant village on themap. Now it’s a chic and quirkytourist center—but the popularityhas only resulted in improvement.The more old timber houses that arerestored, the longer the roster of fab-ulous rooftop terraces and sea views.See “Kalkan” in chapter 7.
• Kaleköy: Also known as Simena, thisseaside village clings to the side of therock more efficiently than its sunkenneighbors. With only 300 inhabi-tants living practically on top of oneanother, the town is too small to even
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have a street; a haphazard nonsystemof paths weaves around the villagehouses. There’s no such thing as tres-passing—it’s just blissfully simple.See “Ka@” in chapter 7.
• Güzelyurt: A Cappadocian villagewhere the livestock outnumber theresidents, Güzelyurt provides a per-fectly hospitable, off-the-beaten-trackgetaway. All of the features that drawyou to Cappadocia—undergroundcities, rock-cut houses, andmonastery complexes hidden in thenearby valley—are found within the
confines of the village. See “TheIhlara Valley” in chapter 8.
• Ayvali: The smell of apricots perme-ates the village as the harvest blanketsthe roofs of the flat-topped, semi-troglodyte houses. Down in the valleyis an almost eerie grouping of cavefacades that retain the curvy lines ofthe smooth cave surfaces. At sunset,the sound of drums in the distanceand the image of village women bak-ing the evening meal’s bread inancient rock ovens create an unforget-table vision of rural life. See p. 326.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F T U R K E Y10
3 The Best Ruins & Archaeological Sites• Pergamum: Pergamum was once one
of the most influential societies in theancient world. Only traces of itsgreatness remain—but high atop thehillside, the acropolis still sings thesongs of the wind through its brokenpillars. The theater is the mostextraordinary remnant of this forgot-ten society, clinging stubbornly to theside of a hill that overlooks a fruitfuland expansive plain. See “Bergama”in chapter 5.
• St. John’s Basilica (Selçuk): Most ofthe marble or cut-stone ruins you’llsee in Turkey are ankle-high, a shad-owy evocation of what once was.That’s why the preserved redbrickwalls of St. John’s Basilica create sucha pleasantly unexpected surprise. Thisholy site retains the soul of its originalpurpose; pilgrims gather around thepresumed saint’s tomb in anunabashed atmosphere of goodwill.See p. 204.
• Ephesus: Ephesus is among the best-preserved ancient sites in theMediterranean, rivaled only by Pom-peii. Frankly, it’s humbling to see howefficiently life functioned before theadvent of mechanized whatnots. Inancient times an important port city,the now-landlocked Ephesus (the
shore is presently 5km/3 miles away)was an advanced society with a clear-cut hierarchy and an economic base,and the extensive archaeologicalremains are here to prove it. The par-tially reconstructed Library of Celsus,the newly excavated portions of theterraced housing, and the strangelyevocative Public Latrine are just a fewof the highlights of this sprawling,marble-strewn site. See “Ephesus” inchapter 6.
• Ancient Theatre (Hierapolis): Theacoustics are as great down in the pitas they were 3,000 years ago. Theextreme upper tiers overlook the greatexpanse of ancient Hierapolis—andnow, thanks to UNESCO, unob-structed views of Pamukkale’swhitening terraces. See “Pamukkale& Hierapolis” in chapter 6.
• Temple of Apollo (Didyma): It’ll belove at first sight at the monumentalgate of the enormous, heroic, andunexpectedly intact Temple ofApollo. Mosey on across the street toget a glimpse of the sacred settle-ment—including the Sacred Wayconnecting the site with Miletus—currently under excavation. See“Ku@adasi” in chapter 6.
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• Lycian Tombs: How did they getthere? And why? Expertly carved intoinaccessible vertical cliffs to resemblea classical temple, the Lycian sar-cophagi are mysterious and dramatic,with their Gothic headdresses perchedabove the ghosts of royalty. The bestspots to see them? Dalyan, Kaunos,Myra, and while boating the pristinewaters of Kekova. See chapter 7.
• Yazilikaya: The stony lineup ofcone-headed deities at this sacredHittite shrine is undeniably moreimpressive in person than in pictures.The true mystery is, who was the firstto discover Chamber B, a room ofenigmatic carved reliefs inconspicu-ously hidden inside a jagged chasm inthe rock? See p. 378.
T H E B E S T M U S E U M S, M O S Q U E S & C H U R C H E S 11
4 The Best Museums, Mosques & Churches• Blue Mosque (Istanbul): This land-
mark mosque assumes a stance ofauthority over Sultanahmet Park. Justunder the dome, hundreds ofstained-glass windows sparkle likejewels until you are convinced thatyou’re in the presence of a celestialbeing. The blue of the mosque actu-ally changes to yellow, orange, andred, depending on the time of dayand the entrance you choose to use.See p. 103.
• Ayasofya (Istanbul): When facedwith the dome of this masterpiece, it’stempting to mimic the actions ofMehmet the Conqueror almost 600years ago and drop to your knees in agesture of utter humility. The sensa-tion is increased by the low level offiltered light that finds its way in,temporarily blinding you to every-thing except the source of illumina-tion. See p. 99.
• Topkapi Palace (Istanbul): Perspec-tive check—this was once somebody’shouse. Actually, it was the home of awhole lot of people—up to 5,000 at atime, all in the service of one man.The sultan surrounded himself withthe most beautiful women in theworld. He collected the most pre-cious treasures of the East. He assem-bled the most sacred relics of theMuslim faith under this roof. Sixhundred years of Ottoman history,
and it’s all behind these grand orna-mental gates. See p. 109.
• Ephesus Museum (Selçuk): Not allof the treasures of Ephesus weresmuggled out of the country to endup in Western museums. There’s cer-tainly enough here to keep you busyfor a while; the explanations are suc-cinct and the labeling clear. Nowyou’ll finally know the story behindthose omnipresent souvenir statues ofthe little guy with the huge erection.See p. 202.
• Bodrum Underwater ArchaeologyMuseum: The only one of its kind,the Underwater Archaeology Museumdisplays the vast findings from the dis-covery of a pre-14th-century ship-wreck. All the more amazing, becausewhen divers stumbled on it, all theywere looking for were a few sponges.See p. 235.
• Underground Cities of Derinkuyu& Kaymakli: In Cappadocia, noteveryone got a room with a view—atleast not if your life was at stake.These multilevel cave cities, thoughtto date back to the 2nd century B.C.,have supported up to 20,000 peopleat once in times of danger and reli-gious persecution (though some spec-ulation puts the number closer to60,000). Clamber through the sur-prisingly intricate warren of passage-ways and living quarters where entire
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villages thrived in safety and darknessfor months at a time. But claustropho-bics beware—it’s very dark and some-times very snug. See p. 343.
• Open-Air Museums of Zelve &Göreme: When you live amid a land-scape composed primarily of porousvolcanic tufa, it doesn’t take longbefore you realize, “Hey, I couldmake a great house out of this stuff.”In Göreme you’ll see cave churchesdecorated with stunning medievalfrescoes; the ingenious structures atZelve are more a window into daily
living, troglodyte-style. See p. 327and 333.
• Museum of Anatolian Civilizations(Ankara): It’s rare that a museum hasthe material to catalog a culture’s back-bone from beginning to end—buthere, it happens. Looking for prehis-toric cave paintings of Cappadocia’svolcanoes? Got it. How about detailedarchives of commerce from 2000 B.C.?Got that, too. Hittite wedding cere-monies? A Phrygian chariot tram-pling? Fertility statuettes? Yup, yup,yup. See p. 370.
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5 The Best BeachesMost of Turkey’s best beaches have beensnatched up by big hotel chains—leavingless than stellar public alternatives for thenonpaying riffraff. Hotels sometimescharge a day fee for use of the beach, ormaybe just the use of a lounge chair—aslittle as 2€ ($2.50) a day. The bonus:Hotels have snack bars, watersports, andclean toilets; and for the most part, thebeaches have been left in their naturalstates.
• Alaçati Bay (Çe@me Peninsula): Theactual stretch of beach is small, butthe beach opens up to an enormousbay blessed with lofty winds—para-dise for windsurfers. The high windsare attributed to the sizable stretch ofwater and the absence of anythingobstructing it. The beach is backedby hills, hills, and more hills, alltopped by dry, barren brush. See“Highlights of the Çe@me Peninsula”in chapter 6.
• Pirlanta Beach (Çe@me Peninsula):Pirlanta, which means “diamond” inTurkish, describes the creamy white-ness of this sandy stretch of the penin-sula. The beach is long and wide andfaces the open Aegean. It’s also easilyaccessible by dolmu@ (minivan-typepublic transportation) from Çe@me’s
town center. See “Highlights of theÇe@me Peninsula,” in chapter 6.
• Altinkum Beach (Çe@me Peninsula):The golden-colored sand from whichthe beach takes its name is located ina relatively hard-to-find spot at thesouthernmost tip of the peninsula.Luckily, this only serves to keep thispublic park blissfully empty andundervisited. Because this beach facesthe open sea, the water is a refreshingfew degrees cooler than elsewhere onthe peninsula. See “Highlights of theÇe@me Peninsula” in chapter 6.
• Ayayorgi Beach (Çe@me Peninsula):Not a beach per se, but a few narrowconcrete piers jutting out over thewater. Nevertheless, Ayayorgi is acharming spot, hidden in an over-growth of orange and olive grovesand open to a small and intimatecove. See “Highlights of the Çe@mePeninsula” in chapter 6.
• Ölüdeniz Beach (Ölüdeniz): Theposters just don’t do it justice. Onone end is the great expanse of Bel-cekiz Beach, enclosed by the brittlesilhouette of Babadag and the land-ing pad for paragliders sporting jet-propulsion packs. And on the beachis the jaw-dropper, the Blue Lagoon
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made real: still waters in no less thanthree shades of turquoise. See“Fethiye & Ölüdeniz” in chapter 7.
• Butterfly Valley (Fethiye): Afterreaching the Blue Lagoon—the holygrail of Turkish beaches—it seemsodd to want to go elsewhere. But theFethiye area abounds with stunningscenery. If you can tear yourself awayfrom the main event, take the 30-minute boat ride to Butterfly Valley, asandy paradise hewn out of a soaringgorge. See “Fethiye & Ölüdeniz” inchapter 7.
• Marti Resort Deluxe Hotel(Içmeler): Nestled between twopeaceful pine hills and boxed in by aseries of curvaceous islands, the beachat the Marti creates the sensation ofbeing lost at sea. The cove is knownby a few savvy gulet captains who layanchor offshore, though close enoughto cast an admiring gaze along thebroad-beamed hull. See “Marmaris &the Datça Peninsula” in chapter 7.
• Iztuzu Beach (Dalyan): Strict rulesof conduct here; Iztuzu Beach is anational preserve and breedingground for the Caretta Caretta, orloggerhead turtle. But at night, afterthe crowds have gone home, you cansit in complete darkness and watchthe lights move out to sea, or listen tothe sounds of home life glide over theriver from a nearby fishing village.Just don’t wander too close to the
waterline, and on behalf of the tur-tles, stay away from the off-limitsareas. See “Dalyan & Kaunos” inchapter 7.
• Kaputa@ Beach (near Kalkan): Hun-dreds of years ago a huge chasmopened up the side of the mountainface and spilled its contents out tosea. The gorge has dried up, butwhat’s left is Kaputa@ Beach, a small,sandy patch 400 steps down from thehighway that feels like the middle ofnowhere. From here, it’s just a shortswim to some nearby phosphorescentcaves. See “Kalkan” in chapter 7.
• Patara Beach (near Kalkan): Eigh-teen kilometers (11 miles) of beachbacked by dunes and marshlands—need I say more? The Mediterraneanrises to the challenge in the summer,when it turns a deep shade of blue.Watch out for the winds, though,which probably managed to sub-merge an entire ancient city in sandin no time at all. See “Kalkan” inchapter 7.
• Konyaalti (Antalya): The newlydeveloped waterfront in center-cityAntalya breathes new life into a sea-side resort that risked second-rate sta-tus. Miles of pebble beaches,waterfront promenades, meanderinglawns, cafes, and activities make thisone of Turkey’s most coveted destina-tions. Bodrum, look out! See“Antalya” in chapter 7.
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6 The Best Splurge Hotels• Çiragan Palace (Istanbul; & 800/
426-3135 in the U.S., 800/363-0366 in Canada, 0800/868-588 inthe U.K., 800/623-578 in Australia,0800/446-368 in New Zealand, or0212/258-3377 in Istanbul): Morethan just Istanbul’s poshest hotel, theÇiragan Palace is a destination in itsown right. The grandeur of thelobby—tinted by light coming
through the stained glass and imbuedwith the fragrance of fresh roses—hardly prepares you for what’s tocome. Expect regal gardens, a deli-cious Bosphorus-side pool, big fluffybeds, flawless service, and an auto-mated phone system that putsAT&T’s to shame. Make sure yousplurge for that sea view, or all betsare off. See p. 87.
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• Four Seasons Hotel (Istanbul; & 800/332-3442 in the U.S., or0212/638-8200): Nothing driveshome the magnitude of this hotel’shistory than to watch a former polit-ical prisoner once incarcerated herebreak down and cry in the hallway.Some original tile and marble detailswere preserved and reused in the ren-ovation, and you might encounterthe rough etchings of an inmate’sname in one of the columns. Butthese days the unqualified opulenceand comfort of this grand hotelcouldn’t be further from its bread-and-water past. Keep your eyespeeled for the much-delayed inaugu-ration of the Bosphorus branch ofthis wonderful hotel, now scheduledfor 2007. See p. 76.
• Kismet Hotel (Ku@adasi; & 0256/618-1290): To get the full effect ofthe Kismet, go for the gusto andbook a suite, preferably with abalustraded balcony. The next morn-ing, watch the waters of the Aegeanchange color with the rising sunthrough your sliding glass door, with-out ever lifting your head off the pil-low. See p. 221.
• Ada Hotel (Türkbükü, BodrumPeninsula; & 0252/377-5915): Ifyou’re looking for the quintessentialTurkish elegance, the Ada Hotel’s gotit, and more. Characteristic, stylish,romantic and utterly memorable, allrolled into a boutique experience onthe hillside above the trendy yet sereneoutpost of Türkbükü. See p. 241.
• The Marmara Oteli (Bodrum; & 0252/313-8130): Deluxe, sleek,and breathtakingly situated—theMarmara sometimes feels more likean art gallery than a hotel, thoughinfinitely more inviting. From yourperch above Bodrum on a grassylawn, you can mull over whatPhilippe Starck would think of thehotel. In your spare time, slink anhour in the hotel spa’s saltwater flota-tion tank. See p. 240.
• Hillside Su (Antalya; & 0242/249-0700): The over-the-top design con-cept may lead to snow blindness, butwhat a way to go. It’s sleek, stark,savvy, and razor sharp in its wit. Andit comes with all of the necessary hol-iday trimmings, to architectural spec-ifications, of course. See p. 311.
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7 The Best One-of-a-Kind Places to Stay• Sultanahmet Palace Hotel (Istan-
bul; & 0212/458-0460): A tradi-tional hamam takes the place of amodern bathroom in every room ofthis hotel, with a supply of bathroomaccouterments the Canyon Ranchwould be proud of. Reserve one ofthe suites so that when the lightsfade, you can open the drapes andwatch sea gulls circle above the lightsof the Blue Mosque. See p. 78.
• Club Caravanserail (Ku@adasi; & 0256/614-4115): Staying in anold Selçuk or Ottoman inn doesn’tmean you have to settle for badlywhitewashed walls or monastery-level
accommodations. At this elegant inn,the parquet floors shine and the stonesteps leading to the upper floor aresteep and cumbersome enough to betotally original. See p. 220.
• Villa Mahal (Kalkan; & 0242/844-3268): They call it the Pool Room,but it’s closer to a honeymoon suite.This free-standing circular room isremoved from the main buildings—which provides a modicum of pri-vacy, if you don’t count the wallsmade entirely of glass. The room hasits very own hilltop terrace and pri-vate pool. Makes me almost want toget married. See p. 287.
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• Aboard a Gulet (the TurquoiseCoast): The blazing August sun givesway to a mild summer night, and youwake up at dawn on the rear deck ofthe gulet with the rest of your ship-mates, covered in fresh morning dew.The next night you’ll know to bring ablanket and slather on some mosquitorepellent; but there’s nothing likesleeping under the stars, in a covealong the shores of the Mediterranean.
See “All About the Blue Voyage” on p. 40.
• Gamirasu Hotel (Ayvali; & 0384/341-5825): The sound of drums atsunset and the fragrance of freshlybaked bread wafting from the com-munal cave ovens are your only com-panions at this secluded village hotel.Truly a diamond in the rough of thevalley, the Gamirasu is a welcome les-son in the simpler things in life. Seep. 330.
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8 The Best Stuff to Bring Home• Carpets & Kilims: No matter how
lame your bargaining skills, it’s stillcheaper than Bloomingdale’s—andboy, do they look good unrolledunder (or on) your coffee table.Turkey’s tribal carpets and kilims rep-resent a cultural tradition that goesback for centuries. The symmetricaldesigns we’re most accustomed to arefound in rugs from Kayseri (see“Kayseri” in chapter 8) and Hereke—the latter traditionally boasts the mostexquisite silk-on-silk showpieces.
• Ottoman Books & Rare Prints: TheOttomans were masters of calligra-phy, embellishing the page with dustfrom sapphires, lapis lazuli, gold, andother gems. Miniatures generally rep-resent scenes from the life of a sultanand his family, with colorful shades togive the page life. One of the mostvaluable of originals or reproductionsis the tugra, the sultan’s elaboratelyornate and personal seal. TheSahaflar Çar@isi in Istanbul is thebest place to find these treasures, asare the streets near Tünel in Beyoglu.See “Shopping” in chapter 4.
• Turkish Delight: This gummy,marshmallowy treat made of driednuts, fruits, syrup, and cornstarch is anational favorite. I personally hatethe stuff, but to each his own. It’sknown as lokum in Turkish—a word
also used to refer to a voluptuouswoman. The best lokum is available atHaci Bekir in Istanbul (see “Shop-ping” in chapter 4), but you can findit at the Egyptian Bazaar or in practi-cally every pastane or souvenir shop.
• Pottery & Ceramics: These artsthrived under the Ottomans, whoseskilled craftsmen perfected the coralred and cobalt blue of the Iznik tile.No one has ever been able to repro-duce the intensity of these colors,until now. The only authentic repro-ductions come out of the Iznik Foun-dation’s workshop and showroom inIznik (see “Bursa” in chapter 5),which has a branch in Istanbul (see“Shopping” in chapter 4). Ordinarybut equally stunning porcelaindesigns on white clay come fromKuthaya (the painting is done at pri-vate workshops), and are soldthroughout Turkey. Just make sureyou don’t get skinned.
• Turkish Textiles: Check the manu-facturer’s label on your fine linens,terrycloth supplies, and cotton T-shirts. I bet you didn’t realize it, butTurkey exports a huge amount of tex-tiles, supplying the raw materials forwell-known retailers such as OP,Calvin Klein, Walt Disney, andXOXO. Bursa and Pamukkale areboth famous for the quality of their
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goods; many Istanbul residents headto one of these towns to stock up onplush towels and terrycloth robes.(Good-quality pieces can be had forunder 7YTL/$5.) Bursa is alsofamous for its silks. See “Bursa” inchapter 5, and “Pamukkale & Hier-apolis” in chapter 6.
• Copper: Turks use copper for every-thing, probably because it looks sogood (particularly the white copper).Tea servers with triangular handlespass you by countless times a day; thewide copper platters that double astables represent typical Turkish style.Those shiny white bowls you see in ahamam are copper, too. For the bestprices and widest selection, head toÇadircilar Caddesi, near the GrandBazaar (see “Shopping” in chapter4), or Bakircilar Çar@isi, near thecitadel in Ankara (see “Shopping” inchapter 9).
• Gold & Silver: The price by weightis the same, but with labor so cheapyou’re bound to get a deal. Shopping
thoroughfares glitter with the stuff—some of it attractive, some of ithideous. The Istanbul HandicraftsCenter (see “Shopping” in chapter 4)has an atelier where an artisan craftshis own work. In Ürgüp (see“Ürgüp” in chapter 8), many of thepieces have local precious stones.Museum gift shops are also greatsources of unique jewelry.
• Leather: The quality and workman-ship of Turkish leather is so superiorit even fools the Italian experts. Istan-bul is the capital of Turkish leather,with shops concentrated in theGrand Bazaar and in select shops ofSultanahmet. See “Shopping” inchapter 4.
• Foodstuffs: The exoticism of the Eastis in full bloom at Istanbul’s Egypt-ian Spice Bazaar, where you can findover five different types of saffron atprices that will ensure you take homea sample of each. Specialty stores and@arcüteris (small groceries selling deli-style meats and cheeses) in the Fish
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The Best Turkey Websites
The World Wide Web makes it simple to do additional research before youleave home. These sites provide a range of information, from destinationoverviews to up-to-date listings on everything from restaurants, hotels, andlocal events, as well as valuable links to other sites:
• www.kultur.gov.tr is the official site of the Turkish Ministry of Culture,and an excellent source for information and links to the country’s majorarts events.
• www.tourismturkey.org is the website of the Ministry of Tourism.• www.turkishdailynews.com and www.turkishpress.com, the sites for
Turkey’s two English-language dailies, allow you to plug into real-timeissues.
• www.mymerhaba.com is for ex-patriots by ex-patriots, but we like toeavesdrop on them, too.
• www.thegate.com is the local magazine you’re most likely to pick up inthe airport (it’s free). The online version mirrors the print edition withcurrent info on Istanbul, plus a “Turkey from A to Z” link.
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Market in Beyoglu marinate a varietyof delectable little morsels in sealedjars ready-made to take home.Although this isn’t Tuscany, you won’tknow it by the quality of the olive oil;head over to the local supermarket,Migros, and stock up on a few bot-tles. The smoothest and most deli-cious is bottled by Komili. See“Shopping” in chapter 4.
• Meerschaum Pipes: Carved fromthe magnesium silicate found prima-rily in Eski@ehir, these ivory-coloredpipes are hollowed out and polishedto mimic playful or grotesque images.The pipes are sold in most souvenirshops and make fun, frolicsomeshowpieces.
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