TAPAS - Janet Mendel

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Table of Contentsrawns in Overcoats, ttsictre erCteernirus1Tuna Pasties, Ermundill4 1 1 i 7 1I J

Chapter 1: The Tapas ExperienceAn introduction to Spanish...eking

Spanish Potato Omelette, VortiouMeatballs in Saffron-Almond Settee,A ilnyoannson, wk, de Ai/nem/No Y AAron3Shellfish Cocklail. searnitelessinete4Marinated Fried H511,-ln no AAO1.4Catalan Tomato TeaStS, Poorrorl5Roasted PepperSulad, Cusurtai Pricier:Ss Asides .6Chicken Sizzled with Garlic, Pao al6Country-Style Potato Salad, vacates Coupe rm .6Grilled Prawns with Roinesco Sauce,bans/tee r In 1 ,1 4 . 1 c - Ar rou t in .krSizzling Prawns, OMNI.. ni9Galician Pork Pie, resoluta? Goer....21Peppers Ruffed with Fish,Relkl con PeiorloReacted Vegetables, bA rnrcs,.25Eggs with Mushrooms and-Green Garlic,Mixed Vegetable Casserole, Scums ventures.27lbma to Sauce, safriri I de 7inuole 28Spinach with Raisins and Pine Nuns,Ls...teas Amoy mows_ "28Squid in Black Ink Sauce, Cnwanraso, ao note _ _ _79Octopus, Galician-Style, mama la Golfe,Clams, Fisherman's Style, Mien s a la *Fr irh' .Mussels Vinaigrette , WM...1 to VinagnIx ..... ... .... ... .... ... .. .33Scallop Gratin, Wine eNa iaAwa.34Marinated Fresh Anchovies, ssrre,aua a+ Natural . .35Orange and Cod Salad. Ronson.... .6Hot Potatoes, Pantie. linen,7Baked Eggs, Flamenco Style, r loss. n I.35fried Squid Rings,Cerrataus rrear,. Chapter 2: SoupsCold Andalusian Tomato Soup, carps& ........................43Garnished Broth.4 lirae Armor .,5Cold White Garlic Soup with Crapes, AP , Mutinies, Stens......46Galician Soup, curs. Coltes ,6Chapter 3: Main DishesAsturian Casserole, r elroda Atturinist9Chicken in Almond Sauce, ems et Arritorisr etia with Seafood, AN/ roar 11411-1,01. .3Basigic Style 1-take, satounta w isuot.55Selland Casserole, Ate:anis gsruiss musts, .................57Spanish Boiled Dinner, El corset EseAS59Herb-Marinated Park Lou,, tam al Ark& .Spanish Potato Casserole, Rent,' I, PAT ..61Lush Braised with Sundt rappels, Corll rind Chihndnln......63Chapter 4: Sweets and PuddingsAnise-Scented Holiday Rings, ItI r Nom do a7Catalan Custard with Burnt Sugar Topping,Cri rO n a CrItentaird9Santiago Almond bate, kr. do&wad,1Spanish Sponge Cake,3Tipsy Cakes. Foam3Fruit in Sweet Wine Syrup. A rrvpr5Heavenly Bowel, TON,7Creamy Rice Pudding, Ann: ow Leek ...7Sweet Friters,....................................................... 78Glossary9Index or Recipes. 1


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TAPASAnd More Great DishesFrom SpainAn Introduction to Spanish Cooking

Spain's cooking is quintessentially Mediterraneanthe sunny flavours of olive oil, fresh fruits and vegetables,seafood and wine. But its styles and flavours varyconsiderably by region, for Spain is a large country.

Compared to the et; isi ne s of neighbouring Franceand Italy, Spanish loud seems more exotic, due to theinfluence of the Moors (Muslims born Arabia and NorthAfrica), who occupied Spain for many centuries, right upuntil 1992, when the last Moorish stronghold, theAlhambra el Granada, was defeated by the troops of KingFerdinand and Queen Imbelia,

The Moorish heritage shows up in the use agroundalmonds and spices such as saffron, 6..1011, nutmegand sesame, even in savoury dishes; in the love of sitedishes such as paella, (the Moors introduced rice-growingto Spain); and in the honeyed sweets and pastries. Eventoday, you will find similarities between Spanish foodand the cuisine of nearby Morocco, just arms the Strait ofGibraltar.

But, also many difference.. Fur one, Spanishcooking includes the wide us e of pork, ham and sausage,which. of course, is forbidden in the Muslim diet. Momimportantly, alter Columbus vol Sail irOMSpain anddiscovered a New World, Spain in the 15th and 15thcenturies became a world power, exploring andcolonising three continents. The Spanish cnnquistadoresdidn't just discover goldthey discovered new foods,such as tomatoes, potatoes and Maier, chocolate, beansand squash, peppers, pineapple and avocados, whicheventually enriched Spanish and European diets.

Don't expect Spanish cooking to be like Mexican orlispan it; food. While the Hispanic countries of the

Americas share some of the dishes (rum colonial Spain,

Spain's..en cooking is nothing at all like the indigenousIndian cooking of the Americasno corn tortillas, no hot-hot chili. No "salsa!"

So, what 's Span ish?Rest-known dishes are podia,saffron-rice with chicken and seafood, typical of theeastern regions ed Spain where rice is grown; rmacold soup of raw ingredients from Andalusia in southernSpainjahaffc a hearty bean and sausage eassenele fromAsturias in the north; nounsto, a I abn tons sauce of sweetpepprs and crushed nuts, which the Ca la lans.verve withgrilled fish; cocido, a meal-ina-pot, typical of the capital,Madrid, but, in fact, served in every region of the ntoun try,and letiffie, which in Spain is a fat round potato and eggomelet le Add to that list superb seafood dishes from allthe coastal regionsSpain consumes mare lish andshellfish than any other Europa II ,11.1111tryplus anenticing army of sweets.

Spanish products appreciated abroad include f ineolives, particular the !Seville manvanillas; capers;ora (Igen' avocad os, saffron; dried figs andalmonds and other nuts; cured saws, ham; cannedshellfish.

You can create authentic Spanish food in your ownkitchen, with ingredients easy m find in local shops. Theselection of recipes in this Mink includes of few of Spain'sexotic dishesfor can ple, squid in its own inkpluslots more which are easy to prepare, easy to enjoy. withingredients right at hand. At the back of the book is auseitil list of ingredients and utensils.

Orr urrovethe! Enjoy. Take advantage of Spain's greatculinary heritage.

A note about the recipes: For the convetlialCu of cooks onseveralcont inents, measurements for ingredients am yen in-.16, 116 s rumsu res, nd American standardmeasures. The American measurements appear in parentheses.Where American terminology is different from British, theAmerican wend is in parentlim. For example, aubergineiteggplaan. 7


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9

Chapter 1The Tapas ExperienceJust follow the crowds through this doorway, into

the cool interior of a typical bor lege or wine bar. Multi-coloured tiles line the walls, while day-tiled floors shinewith the patina of years of footsteps. Barrels of wine arestacked behind the bar. From wooden beams hang wholehams and links of sausages, ropes of garlic and peppers.You order a glass of wine and the barman asks if youwould like a tapa. Tapas are small portions of foods, bothhot and cold, served in wine bars and in inures, taverns, toaccompany a awn of fine, dry Spanish Sherry; n ine, wine;any, sparkling wine; e ider , cider, or draught beer. You canenjoy tapas in most bars before the lunch hour fin Spainthis is very latetapas at 1 p.m., lunch at 2 p.m. or after),and again before dinner (7-9 p.m., with dinner later yell.Tapas are a great introduction to Spanish food becauseyou ca n sham a selection of them amongst severalfriends.

Tapas are served in bars in every region of Spainand every region has its variations on the theme. Theword means ''cover". In wine-making regions, such asJerez, home of Sherry, a tiny saucer is customarily placedto cover a glass of wine in order to keep the little fruit fliesfrom swarming in. A titbit of food placed on the dishwould help attract clients to the wine bar, so the cook

malty the owner's wifewould out-do herself to makemore and better ones. In some bars the tapa is served Freewith the wine.Tapa hopping is part of the convivial Spanish wayof life. With a few friends you stop Mat several bars tohave a glass of wine and sample the tapa specialities ofeach. It is customary to stand up at the bar, but sometimesyou sit at a table and order whole rations or plates of foodto share.

Here's a tantalising taste of some of the disheshotand cold you might find in a tapa bar in Spain.

Certainly the superb ham, both crease, which justmeans mountain-cured, and the pricey i be r i r o , produced

from special pigs which grow sweet O M acorns. This salt-cured ham is served raw, very thinly sliced. It makes amarvellous combination with fine Sherry.

Amongst cold dishes on the tapa bar are a variety ofsalads, some wonderfully exotic. For example, sslpicduwith chopped tomatoes, onions and peppers mightinclude prawns and mussels or it might be made withchopped, cooked octopus. Roll 1*Sn is a salad of oranges,codfish, onions and olives. While it might sound strange,it tastes wonderful.

Spain is famous for its fish and shellfish and a tapabar is a great place to sample the array. Fried fish, fromtiny fresh anchovies (lioquensues) and rings of tendersquid lcal ineares) to chunks of fresh hake and batter-dipped prawns are enticing, indeed. Look for cam* anarloiro, fish marinated before frying, and hoquenotes envinare, marinated raw WM.

Then come a variety of hot dishes. Some are cookedto orderprawns jai l ni l , sizzled with garlic and oil; orgarlicky grilled pork loinwhile others are dished out ofa bubbling stew-pot. You can savour meatballs in almondsauce, kidneys in Sherry sauce, sauteed mushrooins,chicken fried al Ono- with lots and lots of garlic, lambstew, broad beans with ham, piquant tripe, spicy snails,and, of course, tortilla, a thick round potato omelette.Fritters and cniquettes, crisp-fried in olive oil, are othergreat tapas of Spain, which produces the world's finestolive oil.

Tapas are always accompanied by good breadinchunks for mopping up sauces, sliced to top with ham Orcheese, or breadsticks.

Tap. make for great parties. A selection of a few ofthese dishes is a lively change from canapes, while alavish spread could serve as a buffet dinner. Most dishescan be prepared in advance, cleaning you have onlysome last-minute preparations and re-heating. Also,many of these laps can substitute for starters, and,e meegsl the main courses are several which can heserved as taFis. You see how versatile?Fiore are a few recipes to get you started.


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Span ish P otatoOmeletteTortilla Espanola

A tortilla is a big golden disk, which can bead intowedges or squares to be served as a tapa. It also makes anice supper dish.6 tablespoons olive oil1 kg /2 lh rallatoes, peeled and thinly 51ited2 tablespoons chopped onion6 eggs1 teaspoon salt

I feat the oil in a no-stick or well-seasoned fryingpan 124-26 cm / 5-10 inchesl. Add the sliced potatoes andturn them in literal!. Let them cook slowly In the oil,without browning, turning frequently. When they arepartially cooked. add the chopped onion. The potatoeswill take 20-311 minutes to cook. Heat the eggs in a bowlwith the salt. l'ut a plate over the potatoes and drain offexcess oil into another bowl, Add the potatoes to thebeaten eggs and combine well. Add a little of the reservedoil to the frying pan and pour in the potato-egg mixture.Cook on a medium heat until set, without letting theomelette get too brown on the bottom, abort 5 minutes.Shake the pan tit keep the tort illa Win sticking. Maryfiat lid ur plate over the pan, hold it tightly, and reversethe tortilla onto the plate. Add a little more oil to the pan,lino:L..3,y and slide the tortilla back in to cook on therevellie side. about 3 minutes more. Slide out onto aserving plate. Serve hot or cold.Cut into squaws, makes. 15-20 appetiser servings. or.sliced, 4 luncheon or supper servings. 1 1


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Meatballs inSaffron-Almond SauceAlbondigas con Salsade Almendrasy Azafran

This saffron-tingid saiwe thickened with crushedalmonds makes a nice change on the meatball theme.Saffron is grown in Spain and you can buy it in Spanishmarkets. If the real spice is not available, substitute ya

t e a s p o o n o f p a p r i k a o r d r o p o f y e l lo w f o n d c o l o u r i

BOO g/ 1inced beef and pork50g/1 vv.12 sliced stale bread, crusts removedI clove garlic, minced3 tablespoons minced onion2 tablespoons dropped parsley1/2 teaspoon saltfreshly grated nutmeg2 eggs, beatenflour6 tablespoons oliveoil40almonds, blanched and skinned25g/ I 02. (1 slicel bread3 tablespoons olive oil10 peppercorns1/2 teaspoon saffron1 dove1/2 teaspoon snit150 ml /1/2 pint (1/2 cup) white wine250 ml / 9 0 oz ( I cup) meat or chicken stocklemon juicechopped parsley

Combine the minced beef and pork in a bowl. Soakthe sliced bread in water or milk lo cover until soft.Squeeze limn and add to the meat with the garlic, onion,parsley, salt, nutmeg and egg. Knead well to make asmooth mixture. Form into small balls (3 cm / I inch/. Rollthem in flour and fry very slowly In hot oil until brownedon all sick, Remove and drain. Tire oil can be strainedanal used for the sauce

liry the almonds, bread and garlic in the oil untilgolden. Remove. Ina mortar, crush the peppedsaffnin, closvand sad Add the toasted almonds, breadand garlic (or put it in a processor/ with the wine to makea smooth paste. Combine this mixture in the pan withremaining oil and the stock. Bring to a boil, hen add thefried meatballs, Simmer the meatballs for 20 minutes inthe sauce, adding a little additional liquid if needed.Immediately before serving. add a squeeze of lemonjuice. Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

Makes about 36 meatballs.

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M arinated Fried Fishhellfish CocktailCazon en Adoboalpicon de Mariscos

Many tape dishes. he prepared well in advance,bul those which are fried, like this sore, should be servedMunediately. While in Spain this is usually made with akind of shark, which benefits from the tangy marinade,any solid-fleshed fish, such as monkfish, works well.

COI g / 1 .1/2 lb bone-f tee fish, such as shark or monkfishtablcuponns olive oil

5 tablespoons wine vinegar1 tablespoon water3 ckwes garlic. chopped

teaspoon paprikaI teaspoon oregano'/s teaspoon ground black pepper

kuspocin saltflourolive oil for frying

Cut the fish into 4--cm/1 1/2-inch cubes, discardingany skin and bone. Put it in in glass or ceramic bowl. Mixtogether the oil, vinegar. water, garlic, paprika, oregano,popper and salt. Pour over the fish and mix well.Marinate for at least 6 hours or overnight. Then drain thefish swag, dredge it in flour and fry the pieces a few at atime in hot oil until golden and crisp. Drain on papertowelling and serve hut.

Makes about 45 pieces.

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This is an attractive dish to serve for a buffet dinner.Try it also as a first course. In Spanish lapa bars, this saladalso is made using chopped cooked octopus instead ofthe shellfish.

kg / I lb mussels, scrubbui and steamed open250g /1/2 lb peeled prawns (shrimp) kg /1 lb tomatoes, choppedPi onion, choppedI green pepper, chopped1/2 cucumber, peeled and chopped (optional)2 hard-cooloxf eggsI clove garlic, crushedh tablespoons extra virgin olive oil5 tablespoons wine vinegar3 tablespoons chopped parsley1 teaspoon saltlettuce to garnish

Discard mussel shells and any mussels which donot open. If you like, save a few on the half-shell togarnish the platter, Cook the peeled prawns in boilingsalted water for 1 minute and drain. Ina bowl combinethe chopped tomatoes, onion, green pepper, cucumberand chopped egg whites. Mash the yolks with thecrushed garlic. Whisk in the olive oil, vinegar, parsleyand salt. Add the prawns and mussels to the tomatomist. e. Stir in the dressing and chill, covered, untilserving time. Serve 011.1 platter garnished with !Atm,

Makes 12 taps servings or 6 starters.


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Catalan Tomato ToastsPan am b ThingHow could anything or simple be indelicious?

Maybe ire not so simpleyou nerd really good countrybread, superb olive nil and the finest rave ,errano ham.And fur sure, vine ripened tomato. hum Spain. Whilethis is a favourite tapa all over Spain, it's also nervedfor breakfast.

day-old bread, thickly slicedgarlic (optional/ripe tomato

extra virgin olive oilthinly stk.l serial. ham

Toast or grill die slices CI bread, Rub one side ofeach slice with a cut dove of garlic, If desired. Then scrubthe nmsted bread will. cut tomato, Some people preferlu skin and seed the tomato then chop it into pulp. Oneway or another, you want to impregnate the toastedbread with tomato pulp. think on lots of olive oil. Topwith the sliced 15


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Roasted Pepper SaladEnsalada de Pimientos Asados

inutti riles you can buy these roasted peppers at aixnrudorli, a bread oven, where they are resisted in theresidual heat after the days bread has baked. Theirsmoky-sweet fragrance wafts through a whole barrio.This salad is guild as it law, as a starter or as a side dishwith grilled meat, chicken or fish. Should you have anyleft, purism it in a blender with a little liquid or cream andserve as a Nam: Volt can make it with all red .psictim(bell) peppers or, for a combination of Ilavinir and Moanred, green and yellow peppers.

tv8 capsicum (bell) peppers, red and/or green anti Y,I1cI clove garlic, minced3 tablespoons olive oil3 tablespoon vinegarsalt and pepper

Roast the peppers over it gas flame, on the harboueor under the grill (broiler), turning them frequoltly Lentilcharm' on all sides_ Remove them to a bowl and coveruntil they are cool enough to handle. Peel off the skinfrom the peppers. Cut out the steins and seeds anddiscard them. Tear or cut the peppers into strips and piton a rving plate. Add the minced garlic, oil,. mitgar,salt an

sed pepper. Toss gently. Can be prepared in advance

and chilled, but serve the salad at roost tem perature.

Chicken Sizzled with GarlicPolio al Ajillo

Aficionadoof this dish insist on LOTS of grate, butdisagree as to whether the garlic should be peeled,diopped and tried, or whether whole doves of garlicshook] cook with the chicken. While the tap bar versionusually consists of chicken hacked into small bits, thisinterpretation of the classic calls for chicken wing joints,which cook quickly. but avoid nasty bone splinters. Ifyou're cooking it as a main course dish, use a jointedchicken. but allow longer cooking time and more liquid.

Incidentally, this dish is also made with rabbit.I dozen chicken wings, jointed, and wing-tips discardedb tablespoons olive oilIll cloves garlicI bay leaf150 ml /1/4 pint 04 cup) Sherry, dry or mediumsalt and pepperchopped parsley

lightly smash the garlic cloves to split the skins. Setwade 3 of them, unpivled. Peel the remaining cloves andslice [hem. I teat the oil Ma deep frying pan. Add thesliced garlic and saute just until golden, then skim it outand reserve. Add the chicken piers to the oil and frythem slowly, adding the n n pee led cloves of garlic. Whenchickenisbrowned, add the bay leaf and Sherry, salt andpepper. Con tinuecooking until liquid is nearly absorbedand the chicken begins to sizzle again. Serve immediatelygarnished with chopped parsley and the reservedsauteed garlic bits.

Makes 24 pieces.

Country-Style Potato SaladEnsalada CamperaAny rape bar worth its salt serves up three, four, five

Ler more kiln:rent salad combinations (which, incidentally,can all be prepared In advance). This one is always afavourite. You'll enjoy it because it's a good variation onold-fashioned potato salami, Lemon juice makes it special.

I kg /2 lb potatoesI teaspoon salt4 spring unions or I small onion, minced2 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped4 tablespoons olive oil4 tablespoons lemon. juice2 tablespoons chopped parsley2 hard-cooked eggs, sliced1 small lin Iona, drained12 pitted green 011ie.lettuce


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Cook the potatoes in their skins In boiling wateruntil just tender. Drain and chill them. Then peel and slicethe potatoes. Combine the salt, minced onion, choppedtomatoes, olive oil, lemon juice and chopped parsley.Combine the potatoes with the dressing. Serve the potatosalad spread on a platter with sliced egg, pieces of tunaand olives. Garnish the platter with lettuce leaves.

Serves 10-12 as a taps or 6 as a skie dish.

Grilled Prawns WithRomesco SauceLangostinos a la Planchacon Salsa de Romesco

Rexus a Catalan sauce which is trulysensational, particularly with grilled fish and shellfish,but it can accompany any grilled meat or poultry or,thinned with a bit 01 water, servers a dressing forvegetables or salads. Tin:sauce is named for a type ofdried sweet red pepper, which gives it a characteristicruddy colour, North Americans have several similarpeppers Mot hot chills). Othenvise, substitute anextra spoonful of paprika.

large, unpeeted prawns (jumbo shrimp)4-5 small dried sweet red peppers

or 2 tablespoons paprikaI chili pepper or to taste3 tomatoesI head of garlicI dorm almonds, blanched and peeled2 dozen hazelnuts, skinned

slice bread, toasted1 tablespoon parsley150 ml / y pint ter, cup). olive...ill1 teaspoon sailI tablespoon vinegarfreshly ground black pepper

If using the dried peppers, remove stems and seedsand either toast and grind them or else soak in boilingwater and scrape the pulp from the skins. Do the somewith the chili. ROAM the tomatoes and garlic in a hot ovenunlit the tomato skins split, about 15 minutes. Remove.Skin the tomatoes, cut them in hall and nzmuve seeds.Skin all the garlic cloves Put the peppem for paprika/ in aprocessor with the tomatoes, garlic, almonds, hazelnuts,bread, parsley and part of the olive oil. Process until youhave a smooth puree. Beat in remaining oil, salt. vinegarand pepper. The sal. should be the consistency of thickcream. IF too thick, thin with a little water ur white wine.TheTomes., sand: can bemade in advance. thing it toroom temperature before serving.

Grill theprawns on a hot griddle which has beenbrushed with oil and sprinkled wilt coarse salt. Theyteed only 2-3 minutes on each side, depending 00 in,.Serve accompanied by the sauceand finger bowls for -after peeling the prawns. To make a meal of it, prepare amixed grill of prawns, fish fillets, clams and m ussek.

Makes 3110 int/ea pint ol sauce, enough to accompany3-4 dozen prawns.


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Sizzling PrawnsGambas al Pil Pil

In Pupa bars, this is usually prepared in individualramekins. Ta ke care you don't horn your tongue! Theseprawns really are sizzling.For I individual serving:3 tablespoons olive oilI clove garlic, sliced1 pieced chili pepper10 peeled raw prawnspinch of paprikabread

Put the oil, garlic and chili in a small flameprooframekin. Put it on In c heat until oil is quite hot. Add theprawns and paprika and cook lust unlit the prawns turnpink and earl slightly Sean immediately, while stillsizzling, accompanied by bread.


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Pep pers StuffedWith FishPimientos de PiquilloRellenos con Pescado

This turns up in the trendiest taps bars in Madridand Ike Basque Coon try, and also as a starter in manyrestaurants. Plitidlo peppers am a special Spanish redpepper, small, sweet and slightly piquant, with pointedlips. In Spain, you can buy them in tins, already skinnedand ready for stu fling. If piquillo peppers are notavailable, use very small red capsinim (bell) peppers,roasted and peeled (for how-to, see the recipe for RoastedPepper Salad pg 16).2 tins piquillo peppers, eadt 185 g /6 '/Soz

(about IS small peppers)200 g / 7 oz salt cod (hacclao), soaked for 24 hours,

or any cooked white fish3 cloves garlic, chopped1 tablespoon onion, mineod2 tablespoons olive oil1 V/ tablespoons flour218) ml /711 orup e I tablespmin) milksalt and pepper to tastegrating of nutmeg150 mlint (3/4 cup) creampinch of cayenne1 teaspoon vinegar

Drain the finned piquillo peppers. Allow 6-10 (orstuffing and reserve the remainder kw the sauce. Shred orflake the soak r1 codfish or cooked white fish, discardingany skin or bone. In a saucepan, saute the chopped garlicand onion in the oil until softened. Add the fish, then theflour and cook for 2 minutes. Then whisk in the milk.Season with salt and pepper and nutmeg. Cook, stirringconstantly, until the fish mixture is thickened. Removefrom heat. Stuff the piquillo peppers with the fish mixtureand place them in an oiled baking dish. Rake in amedium-hot oven for 5 minutes. (Alternatively, thepeppers may be dusted with flour, then dipped in beatenegg and fried in olive oil, fuming them to brown on allsides.)

Meanwhile, pun', the remaining peppers in ablender with the cream, cayenne and vinegar. Spoon thesauce onto 6 dishes and place 1 or 2 of the stuffed pepperson each.Serves 6.

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R oasted V egetablesEscalivadaThis is a delicious Catalan way with vegetables You

can roast them on the barbecue or under the grill(broiler/. Serve as a tapa, starter, salad, or a side dish withgrilled meat or chicken.2 medium aubergines (eggplant/2-3 red and green peppersI on1 head of garlic (optional)1 tomato3 tablespimos olive oil1 tablespoon vinegar1 teaspoon salt1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Prick the aubergines all over. Place them un a rackover coals or under grill (broiler) with the peppers, onion,garlic and tomato (Divide in two ba wins, if nticrssaryARoast the vegetables, turning, until the skins areblackened on all sides. Remove the tomato when the skinsplits. I el all the vegetables sit, covered, until coolenough to handle. Then rub or peel off the ski. Tear theaubergine flesh into strips. Remove stems and seeds hornpeppers and tear into strips. Cut the onion into thinwedges. Sliver some or all of the garlic cloves. Cut thetomato into wedges. Combine all the vegetables. Add theoil, vinegar, salt and parsley. Serve at mom temperature.Serves 6.a side dish or 12 as a tape. 5


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Eggs Scrambled WithMushroomsand Green GarlicHuevos Revueltos Con Setas yAjetes

While this dish might be SCI1Nd of o tapa or starter, itmakes a good light supper dish. Green garlic shouts, whichlook like miniatim spring onions. have an amazingly mildflavour. If they ate not asnilable, substitute koks. very finelychopped. In Span* this dish is made with any on of severaltypes of wild muslmoms. but you could use cultivatedwhite musbnonis instead.150 g /5oz moshrounis (such as chanierelles, oyster

mushroonw or boletus/6.8 glom garlic shoots or as look3 lablespoonsoliveoil1508 oz peeled, raw prawns (shrimp) loplienal)I tablespoon wateregg,will and pepper

wmaresof fried breadCut away any woody pails of the roushroonw, rinse

under running water and pal Ilion thy on a kitchen towel.Slice the mushmoins. Trim off ends ot garlic shoots andchop them. Heat the oil in a frying pan and saute thenuntinalins and gadk until softened. Add the prawns, IIsttsited. when nueihnoms are may. Beat together thewater., ems and salt and pepper. Pour into the mushroomsand cook, stirring, until el,w,s ore sel creamy-soft. Serveimmediately. As a laps, spoon the eggs onto squan., ed trio]bread.

Makes h-h laps or 2-3 supper servings

Mixed Vegetable CasseroleMenestra de Verduras

A Spanish meal rarely consists of meat. potato. andIwo veg. Vegetables make their appearanto in gnarly salads,in firsbcourse dish. and cooked with pulses for heartypotages. This vegetable cassende makes a good starter. Bean

dividtd between individual baking dishes, each toppedwith an eg,g, and baked until Ilk egg is sela fine supperdish. Vsgetariaos can omit the ham from the mixture. Whilethe following ripe is a typical sprang mo lest.. you cotdd1lS greell beans, pumpkin. chant cam as. cauliflower orother veggies, according to the season.

250 gn shelled peas2305 /1/2 lb shelled broad beans (fns. beans)500g /1 lb fresh artichokes, trimmed andyuanand lin hall that weight if usingfrozen artichoke hearts)I carrot, peeled and .sliced3 tablespoons olive oil1 small un ion. chopped2 cloves garlic, choppedI Lahlespoon floursalt and pepper1i teaspoon paprika6 tablespoons tomato sauce (recipe follows)wa ler or Mockparsley or mint to garnish

Partially cook each vegetable individually in boilingwater to cover peas, broad beans. artichokes andcarrots. Drain, reserving some of the conking liquid. In aheatproof earthenware casserole, heat the nil and sauteI lse chopped onion and garlic. Add the rooked anddrained vegetables and saute gently. Sprinkle with theflour, salt and pepper and paprika. Add the tomato sauceand reserved cooking liquid or stock. Cook on a mediumheat until vegetables are very tender, about 20 minu tes.Serve garnished with chopped parsley or mint.Sere. 12 as a tape or 6 as a side dish. 7


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Squ id in Black casserole big enough to hold the.quid in one layer and


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Ink SauceCalam ares en Su T inta

This will be a sensation at your tapas party. It'sexotic, lint delicious, and not at all difficult to prepare.The black ink onto from a tiny sac inside the squidoryou can buy it in a sachet at the frozen-foods stand atmarkets in Spain. This dish is of Basque origin, but squidink also goes into a Catalan dish of black rice.

1 kg/2 lbs small squidI INI g/3 oz ham, chopped:10 g/ 1 ox Ps cup) breadcrunibsI dove garlic, ininoid2 tablespoons olive oil4511 nil/ % pint (2 cops) tomato sauce

(see recipe on page ai I2 tablespoons brandypinch of cayennecooked short-grain white ricechopped parsley

Your fishmonger will probably he willing to cleanthe squid for youbut be sure to A-serve the ink sacs andleave the body pouch whole. Here's how to clean the%gild yourself: pull the hod, which has short tentaclesattached to it, gently away from the body pouch, Thisreleases the innards, tu which is attached the silvery inksac. Cul it away and reserve in a cup. Cut off the tentaclesjust above the eyes. Save the tentacles and discard therest. Reach inside the pouch and free the quill, thetransparent cartibge, and discard it. Wash the bodypouch and pull off the dark.colounki skin wwuring it.This will free the fins.Save them. You're now ready toproceed with the recipe.

Chop the fins and tentacles. Combine them with theham, breadcrumbs and minced garlic. Use this mixture tostuff the body poaches ot the squid_ Clot the tops withtoothpicks. Heat the oil in a trying pan on earthenware

saute the squid gently. They don't need to brown. Addthe tomato sauce, brandy and cayenne, plus salt andpepper to taste. Cook until the squid are very tender,about 25 minutes. Mash the ink sacs which you have setaside in a op and dilute the ink with a little white wineor water. Pour into the:nce and cook another fewminutes. (lira, like the idea of serving the white squidatop black sauce, remove them before adding the ink tothe sauce.) Press the asked rice into a small oiled mouldand unmouki it onto an ind ividual serving desk. Placeon or two squid next to it and pm! the sauce aroundthe

em. Garnish with choppsd parsley. To serve as small

taro portions, the squid can be sliced c tosswise into bite.sizepieces.


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C lams, Fishermen's Style M ussels Vinaigrette


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A lmejas a la M arineraYou will be amazed at the variety of shellfish to be

found in Spanish tap bars! Ten or more sorts-crnstacea ns and molluscs phis some odd On., curls asbarnadeseach prepared in several different manners.Some of the brut are the most simple, such as this waywith clamswhich, by the way, can he used with musselsas well.

Use any small steamer clam or wedge-shot clam.The big Venus-shell dams, with their beautiful polishedshells, aren't suitable for this dish, as they toughen withcooking. They are more appropriately served raw on thehalf-shell

This is a tape frequently served from a communalplatter. Co right ahead, dip your chunk of bread into thedelicious, garlicky juice!

kg / I lb smell clamstablespoon chopped onion

2 ekives chopped garlic3 tablespoons olive oil6 tablespoons white wine6 tablespoons waterpiece ofchili pepper (optional)I bay bed2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Wash the clams in running water. Discard anywhich are opened or cracked, Ina deep hying pan, fry thechopped onion and garlic in the oil fora few minutesuntil onion is softened, Add the clams. On a high heat,add the wine, water, chili and bay leaf. Cover and shakethe pen vigorously until the clam shells open. This takesabout 3-4 minutes. Renuwe from heat when most of shellshave pilled. Pour into a serving dish and top withchopped parsley. Serve with chunks of bread to dunk intothe clam juices.

Serves tl as a shared lap, or 2 or 3 as a first course dish.

Mejillones a la VinagretaIf you must buy the mussels before the day you

intend to serve them, steam them open and refrigerate,covenui with their juices. Once ,aoked, they keep forseveral days. Lemon juice is an excellent substitute for thevinegar in this recipe.2 dozen + musselsshredded lettuce2 tablespoons minced onions2 tablespoons minced green pepper2 tablespoons minced red pepper1 tablespoon chopped paisley4 tabli,pooris olive oil2 tablespoons vinegar

Scrub the mussels, chip off any Immacles, removethe bcurds the sea-weedy tuft with which they attachthemselves to rocks), and rinse in running water. Putthem in a deep pan with just a little water Cover and putover a hot fire. Shake the pan until the mussel shells open,two or three minutes, removing them from heat as soonas they open. Discard any which do not open. When themussels have cool d, discard empty half-shell. Chill themussels. Arrange them on a serving dish atop s bed ofshredded lettuce. Combine the minced onions, greenpepper, red pepper, parsley, nit and vinegar. Spoon themixture auto the mussels in their shells.Makes 24 Lapis.


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Scallop G ratinVieiras GratinadasScallops are emblematic of Galicia. because the

shells were an ancient symbol for those who made thepilgrimage to the shrine at Santiago de In Cornpostela.Fresh scallops indude thecollop of white muscle, plusthe coral foot. Use frozen scallops if fresh ones are notavailable.

1 Vi dozen scallops in their shells for equivalentfrozen scallops)

3 tablespoons olive oilI small onion, mincedI clove garlic, minced30g/1 oz ham or bacon, diced2 tablespoons white wine2 teaspoons paprikasalt and pepper30g/1 no Ps cup) fine breadcrumbs341 tablespoon olive oil

liming fresh scallops, open the shells by inserting aknife between the shells and prising them open. Discardthe empty flat shell. Loosen scallops firm their shells. Cutout and discard the mantle and black sac. Rinse thescallops in running water. Clean the shells. Place one ortwo scallops in each shell and set them on a grill (broiler)pan. I lent theoil in a frying pan and saute the mincedonion, garlic and diced ham until onion is softened. AddIle wine, paprika, salt and pepper. Spoon this mixtureover the scallops in the shells. Combine the breadcnimbswith the oil and just a little water to make a paste. Spoonit on top of the scallops. Place the pan under the gill(broiler) until the tops are browned and scallops arebubbling, about 8 minutes.

Makes 6 starters or 18 individual tapas.


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MarinatedFresh AnchoviesB oquerones al N aturalSo different is this dish from salty, tinned anchovies,

that there should be another name entirely for this littlefish. The tiny, fresh anchovies are filleted and marinatedin vinegar to produce this la pa dish, which is foundeverywhere in Spain. If you can't gc4 fresh anchovies,substitute thin strips of sardine, honing or mackerel.Vi kg / I lb fresh anchovies125 ml /4 fl oz 11/2 cup) wine vinegar1/2 teaspoon saltshredded lettuce, if desired2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

.Saar2 tablespoons parsley, hopped2 tablespoons olive oillemon juice

Cut off the heads and gut the fish. With a knife tip,grasp the lop of the spine and pull it down across thebelly to fillet the fish. Cut it off at the tad, leaving the twofillets attached by the tail. Rinse the fillets in cold water,then drain and place thorn in a single layer in a glass,ceramic or plastic dish. Add salt and enough vinegar tocompletely caner them. Cover and ruminate for 24 hoursor longer. The flesh will turn solid and white, cooked bythe vinegar. Before serving, rinse the fish in ice-water anddrain well. Arrange them on a plate, on a bed of shreddedlettuce, skin side down, in spoke-fashion. Sprinkle withchopped garlic and parsley and drizzle with oil and just atouch of lemon juice. To serve the anchovies as canapesplace them on strips of bread.Makes 12 tapa serving. 5


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O range and C od SaladRemojon

The codfish used in this salad is iumilne, dry salt cod,which is immensely popular in Spain. II not available,you could substitute tinned tuna or well rinsed tinnedanchovies, chopped.100g / 3 thoz dry salt cod4-6-oranges, peeled and sliced1 onion. thinly sliced (red onion if possible)1 clove garlic, crushed4 tablespoons olive oil36

I tablespoon wine vinegara few red pepper flakes (optional)20 green or black olives

Toast the salt cod over a flame or under the grilluntil it is lightly browned and softened. Pot it in a bowl ofwater while preparing the remaining ingredients.Arrange the orange and onion slices on a plate. Whisk thegarlic with the ail, vinegar and red pepper flakes. Drainthe cod and remove all skin and bones. Shred it and addto the ealad.Sprinkle the dressing over the salad andgarnish with the olives.Makes 1214 taps servings

H ot Potatoes


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J/

Patatas BravasThese potatoes are ho t as in chili peppers, which gointo the sauce.

For the brava sauce:175 m l/6 fl oz ( 2/3 cup) tomato sauce(see recipe, page 28)1 tablespoon olive oil1 clove garlic, crushed1 tablespoon vinegar1 teaspoon p aprikaI/2 teaspoon ground cumincayenne or red pepper flakes to make the sauce hotsalt

Com bine the tomato sauce, oil, garlic, vinegar,paprika, cumin, cayenne and salt.For the potatoes:500 g / 1 lb potatoes, peeled and cu t in

3 cm/1 1/4 inch cubesolive oil for fryingsaltFry the cube d potatoes in deep hot oil until they aregolden-brown and tender ( test them by piercing with askewer). Drain them on paper towelling and sprinklewith salt. Heap the potatoes on a platter and po ur the

sauce over them.Makes 8 tapa servings.


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Baked E ggs,Flam enco StyleHuevos a lo Flamencooliveoil325 ml/11 fl ox (1 V. cups) tomato sauce

(see recipe on page 28)100 g/3 ox ham, chopped8 eggs2 tablespoons choked peasstrips of tinned red pimientoslices of chorizo sausage8 asparagus tipssalt and pepperchopped parsley

Oil four (or eight) individual oven-proof ramekinsand divide the tomato sauce between them. Sprinkle alittle chopped ham into each. Break one or two eggs intoeach ramekin. Sprinkle on a few cooked peas, criss-crossthe top with strips of pimiento, and set a choriz.o slicenext to the eggs. Top with asparagus tips. Sprinkle withsalt and pepper and chopped parsley. Rake in a medium-hot oven (200. C/ 40/0. F) until whites are set but yolksstill liquid, about 8 minutes.Makes 4 supper servings ur 8 upas. 9


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Fried Squid RingsCa lamares FritosClean the squid (see instruct Ions in the recipe for

Squid in Ink Saucel.discarding the innards and ink sac-Cut the body pouch crosswise into rings. The tentaclescan be left in one piece or, if large, cut in hail. Pat dry on aclean kitchen towel. Place the pieces in a bowl of plain

flour and toss them to coat. Heat olive oil in a deep-fryeror deep frying pan. The oil should be aboutcored 35F F. Scoop thesquid intoa colander orfla ' , bottomed sieve and shake to eliminate excess fourFry the squid in the oil. Remove when golden. Drainon paper towelling, sprinkle with salt. Serve withlemon wedges.3 or 4 rings make I tape serving.

Praw ns in O vercoats


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Gambas en GabardinasSOO g/1 lb raw jumbo prawns (shr imp),peeled, leaving the tails intact1 egg, beaten4 tablespoons water(i teaspoon saltv. teaspoon bicarbonate of soda (baking soda)1011 g/3 1 /2 cup 1 tablespoon) plain flourolive oil for deep-frying

Com bine theegg, water , salt , bicarbonate and flourto make a ba tter which is thick enough to coal theprawns. If necessary, thin with water, a few drops at atime. Heat the nil to 180C / 351' F. Dip the prawns bytheir tails into the batter then fry in the hot oil. The battershould puff sl ightly. Remove the prawns when golden.These are good served with a spicy tomato sauce (see therecipe for the sa uc e with 1 lot Potatoes page 3 71.Makes about 10 tape servings (allowing for 3 prawnsper person).Tun a Past iesEmpanadillas de AtimFor the dough:270 g/v v, no (2 ta cops) plain flourteaspoon saltI DO g/3 o z P4 cup +1 tablespoon) butter or lard1010 m1/3 V I floe FA cup) white wine, chilled

Place the flour and salt in a bowl and cut in thebutter tir lard with a pastry cutter until crumbly. A dd thecold wine. Press the dough together to form a ball. Wrapin cling film and refrigerate karat least two hours. (Youcan buy prepared rounds of em panadilla dough in therefrigerated section at big su permarkets in S pain.)

For the filling and frying:200 g/7oz tinned tuna, well d ra Med3 tablespoons tomato sauceI hard-boiled egg, chopped1 tablespoon minced onion1 tablespoon chopped parsley1 tinned Ad pim iento, chopped1 dozen pitted gnam olivesa few fennel or cumin seedssalt and pepperpinch of cayenne or dash of hot pepp er sauceolive oil for frying

Flake the tuna and combine in a bowl w ith thetomato sauce, chopped egg, onion, parsley, pimiento andolives. Season with fennel, salt and pepper and hotpoppet sauce,Roll out the chilled dough on a lightly floured board

and cut i t into rounds of approximately 10cm /4 inches indiameter. Place a sm all spoonful of filling on each roundand fold over the doug h to m ake half-circles. Seal theedges w ith a kirk. Heat the nil in a deep-fryer or deepfrying pan to 180^ C/ 3 50 F. Fry the pasties a few at atime until they are golden brown. Drain on papertowelling and serve hot. These pasties can be prepared inadvance and then frozen. Freeze them in a single layer,then pack them in layers in a covered freezer container.Do not thaw, but remo ve from deep-1 reeze about 20minutes before frying. Fry them without defrosting, butallow a longer time In the hot oil.Makes 2 dozen pasties.

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Chapter 2


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SoupsEvery region of Spain b oasts super soups. Some are light and refreshing, like sum mertime gazpacho,m ade with raw ingredients. Others are heart-warm ing potages chock-full of pulses, vegetables, meatand sausage. Then there are dozens of fish and shellfish soups as w ellCold AndalusianTomato SoupGazpacho Andaluz

Gazpacho is simple pxsasant food, the sort ofmidday dish made in the fields, which requires only rawvegetables, bread, garlic and olive oil. Its gexxlnrnndepends on big, juicy, vine-ripened tomatoes. In taps barsgaspacho is often served in tall glasses, without thegarnishes, to sipped. On a hot summer's day, it reallyhits the spot.

75 g/2F. rca 13 slices) stale bread. Use Spanish, French orItalian loaf, not packaged sandwich bread

I kg/2 lbs 14 Large) ripe tomatoes3 clovesgarlic2 teaspoons salt6 tablespoons olive oil5 tablespoons vinegarApproximately 3511 m1/14 pint (I 1 4 cops) water

For the garnishes:1011g/3 ui 00green pepper (1 small pepper) finelychopped200 g/7 ea Lysumber OA cucumber),

peeled and finely choppedI small onion, finely choppedI small lornato, finely chopped50 g/ I S os 12 Alois) bread. diced andfried crisp in a little olive oil

Put the bread to soak in enough water Ia ower for10 minutes. Squeese out excess water and discard crusts.Puree the tomatoes in a blendhr or processor, then sievethe pulp to remove all skin and seeds. Put the garlic in ablender or processor and whiz to chop finely. Add thebread, then the lomnto pulp. (If necessary, process in twobatches) With the motor running, add the salt, theta theoil in a slow stream, then the vinegar. The mixture willthicken and change colour as the oil emulsifies. Add islittle of Ike water and transfer to a serving bowl orpitcher. Add add ilkMil I water to desired consistency-gaapacho is usually as thick as pouring cream. Chill untilserving time.

Arrange the garnishes in separatebowlsand servewith the gaiparho. Farb person adds theaccompaniments to taste.

Serves 6.

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Castillian Souparnished BrothSopa Castellanaopa de Picadillo

Spain has garlic soup the way France has onionsoup. Almost a cult. Served in every region of the country.Wonderfully restorative. This one is typical of Madrid. ftis frequently served in individual earthenware bowls,each with an egg patched in the hot soup. While usuallyserved as a first course, with the egg added, It could be asimple supper dish.6 tablespoons olive oil6 cloves peeled and chopped300g/101/2 oz (10-12 slices) stale bread, cut in stripsI tablespoon paprikapinch of cayenne (optional)I 14 litres/3 pints (7 14 cups) water or stock2 teaspoons salt6 eggschopped parsley

Ina soup pot heat the oll and fry the chopped garlicand ships of bread until lightly golden. Stir in the paprikaland cayenne), then immediately add the water or stockand salt. Bring the soup to a boil, then simmer until thebread is mostly dissolved, about 15 minutes. ladle theboiling soup into individual ovenproof amp bowls andbreak an egg into each. Place them in a preheated hotoven until the whites are set but yolks still liquid.Sprinkle each with a little chopped parsley.Serves 6.

The broth which rennin.. after serving cocido, anelaborate boiled dinner (see the recipe on page 59), wouldbe garnished with chopped ham and croutons to make alight evening meal. Cocido broth is very rich, withchicken, beef and ham boiled in it. The fresh mint sets offthearomas beautifully. If you haven't got rail ovoidbroth, use any good chicken stock boiled with a piece ofham or unsmuked bacon.

Tiny cups of the cocido broth are served in tapebars. And it's considered it hangover cum for themorning-after.2 litres/4 pints (It nips) chicken and ham broth3 tablespoons olive oilIf g /3 1/2 oz 13-4 slices/ bread, cut in dice100 g/3 1/2 ire venison ham, chopped2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped4 tablespoons dry Sherrycooked chick peas (garbanzos), optionalsprigs of mint

Heat the broth. flt may, if desired, be skimmed offat.) In is frying pan heat the oil and fry the diced breaduntil golden. Remove and reserve. Immediately beforeserving add the harm chopped egg, Sherry and friedbread. Ladle the broth into soup plates and garnish endswith a sprig of mint.Serves 6.

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C old W hite GarlicSoup W ith G rapesAjo Blanco con Uvas

This verde. of gagpacho, typical of Malaga, is madewith finely ground almonds instead of tomatoes. Thesweet muscatel grapes make a marvellous counterpointto the tangy, garlicky soup. Unusual and verysophisticated.

200 g/7 oz (6-8 shoes} stale bread, crusts removed200 g/7 oca almonds CI cups), blanched and skinned3 cloves garlic1501n1/1/4 pint (VI int p) eat ra virgin olive oil5 tablespoons wine vinegar2 teaspoons saltwater, a pprox 1 litre/2 pints 14 cops) to dilute1 bunch muscatel grapes, seeded if desired

Soak the bread in water until softened. Grind theskinned almonds in a processor with the garlic. Squeezeout the bread and add to the processor with just enoughwater to make a smooth paste_ With the motor running,add the oil, then the vinegar and salt. Add a little of thewater, then pour the mixture into a tureen 0/pitcher andadd enough additional water to make the soup theconsistency of cream. The crimp should he quite tangy, soadd additional vinegar if needed. Chill the soup. Stirbefore serving into bowls each garnished with three orfour grapes.

G alician Sou pCaldo Gallego

This potage includes a kind of greens typical ofGaliciaqirlos, which are the stems and leaves of a sort ofturnip. You could substitute turnip greens., chard,collards, spinach or cabbage.

25 0 g/Ii6 lb large while beans, soaked overnightmeaty ham bone, or salt-cured pork ribs

or o piece of fresh porkmeaty beef marrow honepieced( salt pork fat3 medium potatoesI kg/2 lbs greens, washed and choppedI teaspoon paprikasalt

Drain the soaked beans and put them to cook in alarge pot in about 5 litres/b v1 pints 13 quarts) of waterwith the ham bone or pork, the beef bone and salt porkfat. When the bean,. 011.` partially cooked, add thepotatoes, peeled and cut in small chunks. In a separatepot of boiling water, blanch the greens for 3 minutes. Thisremoves excess bitterness. Add them In the beans andpotatoes and taste for salt. Dissolve paprika in El Mile 01the soup and stir it in. Cook another 30 minutes untilpotatoes and greens are tender To serve, cut meat offbones and discard bones.

Serves 8.

Serves 6. 7


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C hapter 3


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M ain Dish esYou can serve almost any dish as a taps. For example, a whole cooked fish would be presented at alaps bar, to he scooped up by spoonfuls in taps-size servings. However, most of the following are bestserved as main dishes.

Asturian C asserole ofBeans and Sau sagesFabada Asturiana

Asturias is in the north of Spain on the Bay ofBiscay, where winters can be very chill, Beans bubbling ina clay poi ant just the Wing to ward off the cold and stickto the ribs. The Asturian/al/sane like plump Inns orbutter beans.

500 g/ I lb dried while beans, soaked overnight in water150 g/5 V A on streaky bacon, in one piece250gpi: lb salt-cured pork hock or ham (if using dry,cured barn. soak it overnight/250g/34 lb red charize sausage (preferably

smoked Asturian)250 g/ V, lb black notecilht sausage

(preferably smoked Asturian)2 bay leaves

tossrxelsaffion, crumbledsalt and pepper to taste

Drain the trans and put them in an earthenwarecasserole. Blanch the bacon in boiling water fora minutesand drain. Tuck the bacon intn the beans and cover themwith water Bring tn a boil and skim. Add the ham hock,choriw, morcilla and bay leaves. Bring to a boil and skimagain. Add saffron, dissolved in a little liquid. Then coverand cook very slowly, about 1.2 hours,. or until beans arevery tender. Add cold water during cooking so beans arealways just barely covered with liquid. Taste for salt andpepper. Don't stir the beans, which breaks them up, hotshake the casserole from time to time. Let the fabada restfor 15 minutes before serving.Serves b.

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Chicken inAlmond SaucePolio en Pepitoria

Almond trees blossom pale pink in late winter. Thenuts, which are harvested M the early fall, are widelyused in Spanish cooking. Almonds are the mainingredient in herein, nougat candy, and marzipan, bothpopular at Christmas time. They also go into manysavoury dishes such as this chicken fricassee.I large chicken or boiling fowl

(2-3 kg / 4 lbs), jointedsalt and pepperflour5 tablespoons olive oil40 g/1 v. on PA cop) almonds, blanched and skinnedti cloves garlic, peeled511 g/ I is oz (2 slices) bread, crusts removedI onion, choppedI dove10 peppercornsti teaspoon saffronI teaspoon saltI tablespoon chopped parsley140 ml/ Vi pint 1 4 4 cup/ dry Sherry or white wine250 m1/9 fl or I I alr)dliCkCll brothI bay leaf2 hard-naked egg yolksI tablespoon slivered almonds,fried in a little ell until gold.

Rub the chicken pieces with salt and pepper, thendredge them with flour. tient the oil in a frying pan andfry the almonds, 4 cloves of garlic and the bread slicesuntil they are golden and skim out. In the same oil,brown the chicken pieces very slowly on both sides,adding the chopped onion. Remove the chicken to aflameproof casserole.

Ina mortar, grind the clove, peppercorm andsaffron with the salt. Add the fried garlic, the remaining 2cloves of raw garlic, almonds and bread (this can be donein a blender or processor), then the parsley. Dilute thismixture with some of the wine and stir it into the chickenpieces. Add the remaining wine and broth. Bring lea boil.then simmer, careered, very gently until the chicken istender 11-2 hours, depending on size of the chicken/.Mash the egg yolks with a little of the liquid and stir itinto the cakirole Sr thicken the sauce. Serve the chickengarnished with the toasted slivered almonds andtriangles of fried bread.Servesh.

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Paella W ith SeafoodPaella Con Mariscos


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Paella appears at tapa bars, to be scooped up byscroll servings of a spoonful.

There are many versions of paella, some of whichcontain no seafood at all. This version, with shellfish andchicken, is wry popular. The typical paelLi pan, which isoften used on a wood fire out of slows, is wide and flatquite unwieldy on the kitchen hob. You might try using adeeper pana flat-bottomed wok works well or yourlargest frying pan.

Spanish rim is a medium-short grain variety, not along-grained pilaff style rice. It soaks up the flavours withwhich it cooks, but tends to be sticky if overcooked. IfSpanish rice isn't on your supermarket shelf, look forItalian arborio rice, the sort used for risotto.

Saffron is an expensive spice. If you can, buy it inSpoilt, where it's grown. ((you don't have real saffron,use a spoonful of paprika for flavour plus a few drops ofyellow food colouring to get that wonderful sunnyyellow colour. (No, don't use that other yellow spice,turmeric, bemuse it has a strong, sharp flavour of its mint,which doesn't jibe with Spanish flavours.)

I dozen mussels, scrubbed and steamed open515) g/ I lb large, uncooked prawns (jumbo shrimp)6 tablespoons olive oilI kg/2 lin chicken or rabbit, out in small pieces300 g/10 no squid, cleaned and cut in rings2 small green peppers, cut in squares2 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped2 cloves garlic, minced100 g/3 yr oz shelled peasor broad beans,

green beans or quartered artichokes(par-boil beans or artichokes)

1 1/2 litres/2 1/2 pints (6 1/2 cups) water or stock559g/I lb (2 1/2 cups) Spanish short-grain rice,h teaspoon saffron lair more, for a bright yellow colour)a few peppercorns, crushed, or

freshly ground black pepper2 teaspoons salt1 tinned red pimiento, cut in stripslemon for garnish

Discani the empty half-shells of the mussels. Strainthe liquid and reserve it. Cook 6-8 unpooled prawns inboiling water for 1 minute. Set them aside and add theliquid to the mussel liquid. Shell the remaining prawns.

Heal the oil in a paella pan or large frying pan(approx. 40cm/16 inches). Fry the chicken pieces in theoil, then add the squid. Continue frying, adding next thegreen peppers, then the tomato, garlic and peas, beans orartichokes. Combine the reserved liquid and stock orwater to make I Vu litres / 2 Ii pints (6 1/2 cups). Add allbut I cupful of the liquid to the paelLi. Crush the saffronin a mortar or in a teacup using the butt-end of a knife.Dissolve it in a little water or white wine and stir into thepaella with the pepper and salt. Add the peeled prawns.When the liquid comes to a boil, add the rice andcontinue to rusk oil a high heat for 6-8 minutes. Thenreduce the heat and continue mess* until rice is justbarely tender, adding the additional liquid as needed,about 8-10 minutes more. Don't stir the rice, but shake thepan. Cornish the lop with the reserved mussels. cookedprawn and strips of pimiento. Let the paella rest for 5minutes before serving with lemon wedges.

Serves 6.53


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Basque Style Hak eM erluza a la V ascaFlake is a delicious fish, which belongs to the cod

family This liasque,style preparation is sometimescalled -hake in green sauce-Omen with lots ofchopped parsley.I V: kg/3 lhs whole fresh hake, cut into crosswise steakssalt2 tablespoons flour1.30m1/3 ss fl lie a /3 cup) olive oil6 cloves garlic, sliced crosswise150 mliss pint S y s cup) white wineF. teaspoon salt30 gi/2 oz peas150 g/5 uz. clamsa low peelski prawns (shrimp), if desired2 tablespoons chopped parsleyfit:ticked nr tinned asparagus spears

Salt the fresh fish steaks and let Mein not for 15minutes. Then pat dry and dust them with the flour. Heatthe oil in a flameproof earthenware casserole or fryingpan. Add the sliced garlic and the pit,s of hake. Letthen, cook, without browning, in the oil ter 2 minutes oneach side- Then add the wine, salt, peas, clams and, ifdesired, a few prawns. Cook the tish, shaking androcking the casserole, until the fish is WM flaky cod clamshells opened, Mc sauce should be somewhat thickened.Add the chopped parsley and asparagus.

Serves 6.5


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Seafood CasseroleZarzuela de


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Pescados y Mariscos

Like the opera for which it is named, this seafoodmasterpiece deserves a dedicated audience. Only a fullgala production number will do, so plan to buy three orfour different fish, as nvny shellfish. Black lieoptional.4 servings each of 3 or 4 different kinds of fish, for

example: monkfish, grouper, tockfish, rascasse,bream, hake, sea bass, conger; cut fish intocross-cut steaks or fillets

4 large prawns (jumbo shrimp), peeled, leavingthe tails intact

4 Dublin Bay prawns (sea crayfish), whole,or a small lobster, quartered

2USSelS, scrubbed and beards removed;steamed open (reserve liquid)

ISO ml/v, pint (Yr cupll olive oil1 medium squid, cleaned and tut in ringsI onion, chopped4 tomatoes, peeled and chopped3 tablespoons dry Sherry3 tablespoons brandy1 bay leafla teaspoon saffron, crushed2 cloves garlic10 almonds, blanched, skinned and toasted2 plain biscuits (cookies such as graham crackers)

(malt's Mari.)I .5D WI, pint (la cup) while winesalt and pepperdash of cayennechopped parsley

You will need a large frying pan in which to saaldthe fish plus a heat-proof earthenware casserole tocontain the seafood Moue layer.

Salt the fresh fish lightly and set it aside_ In a fryingpan, heat half the oil and add to it the prepared squid andthe dropped onion. Saute until onion is softened, thenadd the prepared tomatoes and fry on a high heat for 5minutes. Add the Sherry and brandy, plus Mat a littlewater. Cook en a medium heat until tomatoesare reduced, about 10 minutes. Put the sworn intothe casserole.

Wipe out the Irving pan and add some of theremaining oil. In it saute the pieces of fish. turning themto seal both sides. They needn't blown. Remove them asfried and place onto the sauce in the owserole. Add oil tothe frying pan as needed. Next saute the prawns. DublinBay prawn. or lobster and add to the casserole. Discardempty mussel shells and add the mussels to the casserole.

Ina mortar or blender, grind together the bay leaf,crushed saffron, garlic, almonds and biscuits. Combinethe wine with any reserved liquid from mussels anddilute the crushed spice mixture in some of the liquid.Add salt and pepper and cayenne. Add it and remainingliquid to the cassende. Place the casserole en top of thestove and cook until fish is just flaky, about 15 minute,.Shake the casserole, but don't stir. Servegarnished withchopped parsley.Serves 47


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Spanish Boiled DinnerE l Cocido Espariol

Spaht's national dish, the tackle, is a whole meal inthree acts with a sumptuous cast of ingredients. For feastdays, it would be further enriched with a big mealdumpling. I,ef hover cocido broth can be used for piodillosoup (see recipe page 45).

250 g/t, lb chick peas. soaked overnight400 g/14 ozboiling beef1(01 g/3 1/2 oz salt pork or streaky baconmeaty ham bone4/ boiling fowl or large chicken3-4 carrots, peeledI turnip, peeled and halved2 leeks, trimmed1 stalk celery1 onion stuck with 2 cloves2 teaspoons salt6 medium potatoes1 small cabbage150 g/5 oz red churl., .usage150 g/5 oz black ;wreak sausage150 g/5 oz line soup noodlessprigs of parsleytomato sauce, if desired, as an accompaninrwnt

Drain the chick peas and place them Ma largecooking pot. Add the boiling beef, salt pork, ham bone,and boiling fowl, Add 4 litres/4 ...limns of water and bringtea boil. Skim off the froth, then lower the heat and addthe carrots, turnip, celery, leeks and onion. Simmer verygently, covered, for 1 hour. Then add the salt and cookanother 30 minutes. Separate about 1 t, litres/1 VI pints 16cups) of the broth into another saucepan. In it cook thecabbage, cut into wedges, with the two sausages for 30minutes. Add the potatoes to the main p.t and continuecooking it for another 30 minutes, When meat and chickpeas are very tender. strain out the broth into another pot.Bring tea boil and 000k the noodles in it.

Serve the noodle soup as a first course, garnishedwith sprigs of parsley. Skim out cabbage onto a platterwith the other vegetables and chickpeas. Serve meat,sausages and chicken on a third platter. If desired, serve atomato sauce with the cocido.

Serves 6.

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Herb-MarinatedPork L oinLomo en Adobo

You'll find this misty pork loin served as a taps,when it is thinly sliced and quickly fried, then servedatop a piece of bread, called mnnfnditn er 140,thio. Inthis version, the whole loin is oven-roasted, then sliced. Itmakes a nice dish (era buffet supper, especially whenaccompanied by the billowing potato casserole and theSpinach with Pine Nuts and Raisins Sax-Moon page 211).1 tO kg/31bs boned perk loin4 cloves garlic, crasbed1 teaspoon paprika2 teaspoons oregano60 pinch of thyme

pinch of rosemary10 peppercornsI teaspoon sn itI tablespoon olive oil200 m1/7 n oe ,,,p) wine vinegar

tprekrably Sherry vinegar)Rub the pork loin with the crushed garlic, paprika.

oregano, thyme and rosemary. Place it in a nen.reaclivecontainer. Sprinkle with the peppercorns, salt, and id.Pour over the vinegar. Cover the container and marinatethe pork, rtif rigera Led for two days. Turn the perk in themarinade twice a day. Drain the meat and pat itdry,andplace - in a roasting pan. Put it in a hot ovenCAWC/ 410 FI fur 10 minutes to brown. Theo reduce theheat to medium (180C/ 350F) and roast the perk untildone. 'Pest it after one hourcut into the centre of thepiece nP meat. Meat should be juicy, only slightly pink inthe Lambe If still red, roast another 15-30 minute, Allowthe meal to rust for 10 minutes below slicing,Makes 8 dinner servings or 2 dozen eyes


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Span ish PotatoCasserolePatatas a lo P obre

The Spanish name, a fo polar, ira..ans poor-man'sstylea main dish of just potatoes. Nowadays, thiscasserole makes a great side dish with meat or fish.2 kg/4 lbs potatoes202 small green peppers1 tomato, sliced130 m1/1/4 pintup) olive oil3 cloves garlic, chopped3 tablespoons chopped parsley2 hay leavesv, teaspoon thyme teaspoon paprika (or saffron/100 m1/3 V/ floe (1/3 cup) white wine11)0 m1/3 V2 fl oz (1 /3 cup) watersalt and pepper

Peel the potatoes and slice them fairly thinly. Peeland slice the anions. Cut peppers in strips. Pour a little ofthe oil Into the bottom of a flame-proof earthenwarecasserole or oven-sate pan. Arrange alternating layers ofpotatoes, onions, green peppers and tomato slices,sprinkling each layer with some of the chopped garlicand parsley. Break the bay leaves into pieces and tuckthem among the potatoes with the thyme. Sprinkle withthe paprika and pour over the remaining oil. Place thecasserole on a medium heat just until potatoes start tosizzle. Add the wine and water_ Season with salt andpepper. When the liquid comes to a boil, cover thecasserole and put in a medium oven (180'C/350 F) untilpotatoes are tender, about 40 minutes. Let the casserolerest 10 minute before serving_Serves 10 as a side dish.

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Lam b B raised W ithSweet PeppersCordero al Chilindron

This dish is from Aragon which grows wonderfullysweet peppers. The usuntinterpreto Lion is loin b cut inchunks as for iteier.ln this version, lend, lilt le la MI,shops are used1 kg/2 lbs Iamb chops, trimmed nr curs.. tosalt and pepper4 sweet red capsicum (bell) peppers3 tablespoons olive oil3 cloves garlic, chopped150 g/5 oz sermon ham, cut in strips1 small onion, chopp,13 large tomatoes, peeled and clapped

Rub the chops with salt red pepper Roost thepeppers under the grill (broiler/ or mvrr o pas flame,turning them until blistered and charred. Remove and letMeru rest, covered. Then peel them and cutthe flesh inhiwide strips. Heal the oil in a flamer -11.A' casserole andbrown the lamb chops on both sides. Add the choppedgarlic, gripe ofhorn, chopped onion and strips of pepper.Add the chopped tomatoes and conk briskly for 5minutes. Then reduce heal and simmer until Iamb istender, about 20 minutes,Serves 4.3


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Bull's Tail(Braised Oxtail)Rabo de Toro

The bullfighter whose art is most highly rated in theplaza de tares is awarded trophies for his performanceone ear, two ears, then the tail too for the most profoundforna.You won't have to brave any fighting bulls to enjoythis dish, for butcher's oxtail works just fine. This slow-simmered dish produces a deep, rich gravygood withpotatoes or rice on the side.1 whole oxtail, cut into crosswise pieces3 tablespoons olive oil1 onion, chopped1 leek, chopped1 carrots, diced2 cloves garlic, chopped50 g/2 no serrano ham, chopped5 tablespoons brandy120 ml/4 floo dry Sherry or red wineI tomato, peeled and chopped1 bay leafsprig of parsleysprig of thymesalt and freshly-ground black pepperpinch of ground cloveschopped parsley

Blanch the pieces of oxtail in boiling water for 5minutes and dram-T.1n a large pan or casserole, heat the oiland add the onion. leek, carrots, garlic and ham and sautuntil onion is softenal. Add the pieces of entail modbrown them on a high heat. Add the brandy, net it alight,and stir until the flames die down. Then add the Sherryor red wine, chopped tomato, herbs, salt and pepper,cloves. Simmer until theme* is very tender, about 2hours, adding additional liquid as needed. 'The sauceshould be fairly thick. If necessary, thicken with a littleflour whisked into the gravy. If desired, this dish con beprepared in advance, chilled, and excess fat skimmed off.This also allows flavours to mellow. Serve garnished withchopped parsley.

Serves 4.

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Chapter 4Sweets and Puddings


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M any tapa bars double as cafes, where you can take coffee and sweet rolls in the mo rnings,before the hour for tapas arrives. And n ow adays, man y bars have restaurants where you can sit at atable and order a full meal including a pudding. Here, then, is a sampling of Sp anish sweets.

Anise-ScentedHoliday RingsRoscos de Navidad

Spain's version of the doughnut, scented with aniseand cinnamon, is tined the favourite sweets at Christmastime. Typically, in regions which produce huge quantitiesof olive oil, they would be fried in this oiL You eonsubstitute other vegetable oil.

200 nil /7 fl oz (SS cup I. I tablespoon) olive oil3 table:Toms aniseedzest of a small lemon, removed in I piece1110 g/fil /3 oz. II cup) sugar2113 rnt/7 fl .114 cup z I tablespoon) while wine2 teaspoons cinnamon1 kg/2 lbs 3 oz (71/2 cups) plain flour2 eggs, separated3 teaspoons bicarbonate of soda (baking soda)ail for deep frying1411g/5 crept sugar

Put the 202 m1/7 fl Oz of oil in a frying pan and heatit with the piece of lemon peel. Add the aniseed and cooka few minutes just until the spice is fragrant. Reinovc andcool the nil. Skim out the lemon peel. In a bowl, combinethe g/6 li on of sugar with the wino, cinnamon andoil, Add 2 cuix, of the flout then beat in the egg yolks andbicarbonate of sods. Beat the egg whites until Miff, thenfold them into the batter. Gradually add the remainingflour, using the hands to work it in. The dough wilt bevery sticky.C.tinue adding flow until it forms a softdough which doesn't stick to the lingers. Take a small ballof the dough and roil it into a cord about IC cm/4 incheslong, Pinch the ends together to form a circle.. Continueforming the rings. Heat oil in a deep fryer until hot butnot smoking and lry the rings, a few at a time, untilgolden on both sides. Remove them with a skimmer.drain briefly, and, while still hot, dredge them in theremaining sugar,Makes() 7 dozensmall rings.7


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with Bu rnt SugarToppingCrem a Catalana6 egg yolks150g/5 iS o.(14 cup) sugar750 1111/1 pint 6 fl oz (3 Vt cups) milkzest of 1 lemon6 cm/2 inches cinnamon stickPIO ml/3 //./ fl oz {v cop + tablespoon/. milk3 iElblespoo. cornflour (cornstarch)50 g/1 /4 oz OA cup) sugar

Ina bowl beat the egg yolks with the MI g/5 w or.sugar. Put the 750 m1/1 pint 6 Fl oz m ilk in a pan with thelemon oust and cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil. thatremov e From he at. Strain it and whisk into the beatenyolks. Stir the remaining milk and cornflour together in asn.11 bowl until smoo th. Stir it into the custard mixture.Cook the custard on a low heat, stirring eon t a ally, untili t just begins m hobble. Remov e From the heat and div idebetween 6 shallow pudding dishes. Cool the custard.

Shortly before serving. sprinkle the lops Of thecustards with the remaining sawn Use a salamander.heated on a gas Flame, to carnieline the top of eachcustard. Or, set the sugar-topped custards unde r a grill tobrown the sugar.Serves 6.9


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1-rw1 1 . 1 1 1 1 . 1 . 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 9 1 0wwwwwwb,4 6 1Tiappet.,


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Spanish Sponge Cake Tipsy CakesBizcochoorrachos8 eggs, separated30n g/1 152. (23S cups) sugar1 teaspoon grated lemon zest29008 -VI ea (2cups + 2 tablespoons) plain flour, sifted

Prepare a cake tin (23 cm / 11 inches). Oil thebottom and sides and line the bottom with an oiled pieceof parchment (baking) par,

Pi..., the egg whites M a bawl and with an electricmixer, beat them until stiff. Ina separate bowl, beat theyolks until light, than beat in the sugar and continuebeating until yolks are pale and creamy Add the lemonzest. Seal the yolk mixture into the whites. By hand, foldthe flour lightly into the sponge. Pour the bailer into theprepared cake ((cond bake in a preheated medium(18M.0 351ti F) oven until a skewer intoned in the centrecomes out clean, about 43 minutes. Loosen the sides witha knife and invert the cake onto a rack to cool.

The cake can be split and filled with fruit preserves,pastry cream or whipped cream. Or, use it Inc-ipsy cakes".

This is a good way to use stale sponge cake.

1 sponge cake (recipe precedes), baked in a square orrectangular pan

2004/7 oaLia cop/ sugar200 m1/7 fl no OA cup + 1 tablespoon) waterzest af I orange200 ml/7 fl told cup + I lab/to/sprain) medium or

amontillado Sherry3 habit/spoons brandyalmond flakes, candied cherrieswhipped cream, if desired

Cul the sponge into squares/ Maw/ them on a trayand prick the sponge all over with a skewer. In asaucepan combine the sugar. water and orange zest.Bring to a boil nod work for 5 minutes. Remove from heatand add the Sherry and brandy. Spoon the syrup river thecake squares. Let the syrup soak in, then add anyremaining syrup. Squares oldie cake can beset intoflirted paper cups and decorated with almond flakes andcandied cherries. Or, un a dessert plate. serve them with adollop of whipped cream and a few fresh berries.

Serves 1012.akes 2 dozen servings.3


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Fruit in SweetW ine SyrupArrope

Traditionally, this was a way to preserve summer'sfruits and vegetables in a heavy syrup. Delicious willsany combination of late-summer fruits such as melon.figs, pears, apples, and vegetables too. Unusual though itsounds, chunks of pumpkin and aubergine go very wellin the spicy syrup.I kg/2 lb firm pears (Fel CO300 g/70 on pumpkin or other vegetablesa few dried figsa handful of raisinszest of 1 lemon, oil into slivers100 g /3 1/2 oz 1 T . nip + 1 tablespoon) sugar3 on / 1 inch cinnamon stick4 cloves1.4 teaspoon allspice500. pint 12 1. cups) Malaga muscatel wine or

grape juiceslivered almonds

Peel the pears, quarter them and remove cores. Peelthe pumpkin and cut it into ch u n ks Combine them in asaucepan with the figs and raisins, slivered lemon zest,sugar, cinnamon, cloves, allspice and wine or grape juice.Bring to a boil, then simmer until fruits are lender, about30 minutes. Serve hot or cold, sprinkled with sliveredalmonds.

Servos 12.5


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"Heavenly Bacon"Tocino de Cielo

A slab of this dense, sweet custard, with its dark

Creamy Rice PuddingWith CinnamonArroz Con Leche


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caramel top, looks remarkably like a slab of baconHeavenly.For the caramel:200g/7 ox (1 cup + 1 tablespoon) sugar150mlfti pint 15 fl mvl water

For the custard:12 egg yolks2506/9 00 u (6 cups) sugar4(10 m1/14 II oz 11 ;Scups) waterI piece of vanilla pool (beaal

First prepare the caramel. Have ready an oven-proofmould measuring approximately 16 x lb cm/ 7 x 7 inches.Is a heavy saucepan, boil the sugar and water unfitgolden. Watching it very carefully, cook a little longer toecaramel colour. Immediately pour the caramel into themould:Tip the mould to amt it evenly. Set aside whilepreparing the custard mixture.

Beat the yolks together until light and pass themthrough a line sieve. Ina heavy saucepan, heal the sugarwith the water and yentas! pod. Cover fur a few minutes,then uncover and boil the syrup to the thread stage, 15-15minutes. A drop of the syrup, cooled, will spin a threadoff the tip of a spoon. Remove the vanilla pod and whiskthe hot syrup into the beaten egg yolks. Pour the mixtureinto the caramel-coaled mould Cover with foil and placethe mould in an oven-proof pan. Partially fill the panwith boiling water. Set in a medium-low (155W C / 301:PF)oven until then-instant is ceoked, about 25 minutes orwhen a thin skewer comes out elmit. Cool the custard,then chill it. Turn the custard out oI the mould and cut itinto small squares or rectangles.

Rather better than the nursery pudding youremember. It's a layman(' dessert amongst Spain'syuppies and politicos. lIerha ps for the comfort value.

230 g/7 oz (1 cup) short-grain (pudding) rice250 m1/9 ft se ll cup) waterI piece cinnamon stickstrip of lemon M91ICC g/3 0:4 i1/2 alp) sugarpinch of saltI litres/2 pinfs (5 is cups) minkadditional sugarground cinnamon

Put the rice and water hi cook in a saucepan. Bringto a hell, cover and simmer just until the water isabsorbed, about 6 minutes. Add the cinnamon slick,lemon zest, sugar, salt and milk. Bring, to a Nal, then turnthe heat to very low and cook, covermi, unfit the rice istender, another 20 minutes. Remove thee-mum -non stickand lemon peel. While the pudding is still hot, spoon itinto a serving bowl on individual pudding dishes.Sprinkle with additional sugar and dust thickly withcinnamon. Cool. The pudding shnuld still be creamy, notset fix) firm,

Makes 60 servings.

Makes 0-10 small pieces.7


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Sweet FrittersBuriuelos

Thew pulled fritters have to he enjoyed freshlymade. They are quite delicious accompanied by fruit jam,for breakfast or For dessert.

240 m(/ftI cup) milker water70 g/2 ./.1 oz 01/4cup/butter

0/1 os tablespounsi sugarpinch of salt125 g/4 M oz (1 cup) plain flour4 eggs, room tempera tureaItive oil for deep frying the fritterssugar

Place the milk or water, butter, sugar and ran in asaucepan and bring to a buil. Add the flour all at once,beating it hard with a wooden spoon. As you continuebeating, it will form a smooth ball of dough. Removefrom the heat and beat in the eggs, one at a time, untileach is incorporated. Continue beating the batter untiltool. (Batter can be prepared in advanced ISeat the oil in edeep-fryer or heavy trying pan. Dmp the batter into theher oil by spoonfuls. The batter will puff ae it fries. Turnthe fritters to brown both sides. Remove, drain andsprinkle the Fritters with sugar

78 Makes 2 dozen fritters.

GlossaryAbout Spanish Ingredients and Utensils


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Anchovies lisiptivenesraerltorts). Fresh anchovies are smallsilvery fish very different from salty tinned oneswhich can be prepared in many ways. If not available inmarkets abroad, strips of fresh sardines, herring ormackerel might be substituted_

Casserole feszstrial. Earthenware casseroles with unglazedbottoms can be used for cooking on a gas hob or in theoven. If not available, use any flameproof casserole orfrying pan. Earthenware holds the heat after it has beenremoved from heat, so food conlimies to cook.

Chorine. Spain's most distinctive sausage. It is colouredred with paprika and flavoured with garlic. There are twotypes of &or IZOa hard curdsausage. which is slicedand served as cold cutsand a soft sausage, usually tied inlinks, which cart lie fried or add.' to miragesCod, shy salt codfish i blerdno).A ravountr ingredienteverywhere in Spain. The salt-cod must he soaked for 36hint rs in several chailges of water before being pura(An. exception Is the recipe in this hook for salad withoranges, where the cod is merely Imsted.)

Haiti (rennin). In Spain ham usually means sermon ham.This is a salt-cured ham (not smoked), which is served raw,very thinly sliced. as a (rya or aperitif. It is also used incooked dishes. l'rericautto or Parma ham is the ckasestsubstitute, though unsmoked gammon or back baconcould be used in cooked dishes Serrano ham, if made fromthe small, brown Iberian pig which fattens on acorns, isLabeled &rica, and is sometimes also called pats two,which means black hoot. It is enormously popular, thusvery expensive. Ordinary cooked ham, Owned you mightuse for a ham sandwich, is jammil l 79

MordIla. A black sausage made from pigs blood andseasoned with cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, fennel.gornetimes pine nuts or onions. It is stewed with pulsesand vegetables in typcial potages.

peeled and canned; tiny green Padden peppers foe frying;dried sweet red peppers, such as nor. and Thorley.,which are used to flavour chorizo sausage. Several sortsof chili peppers can be found too, most fairly mild. Chili


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Olive oil lacede de ohm). Olive oil is good for you.Spanish olive oil is superbthe essential flavour in manydishes. There arc three types of olive oil. The first andfinest is extra virgin, the oil extracted from recentlypicked olives which have been crushed and cold-pressed.Because it is expensive, choose it foe flavourin saladdressings and marinades, in place of butter for dressingvegetable:, drizzled over grilled BM. Next is virgin oliveoil. It has a higher level of oleic acid and is usuallysomewhat stronger in flavour than the extra virgin. It ispeeled for deep-fryingpotatoes, fish, fritters. The thirdtype is simply labeled olive oil. This is oil which has beenrefined (as all other oils are refined), then mixed withsome virgin oil to restore th e olive oil flavour. II is theleast expensive and can be used as you would use anyother vegetable oil.Paella, paella pan (paella). This rice dish is named for thepan in which it cooks, a wide, flat pan which allows allthe ingredients to cook in a single layer over a fast-burning fire or, nowadays, on a large gas ring. A paellapan large enough to serve 8 people (411 cm/1.5-16 inches)is hard to manage on a hob, though yen can try placing itover two burners. Easier, make two paellas or else use adeeper pan. The pans are sold In hardware stores andsupermarkets all over Spain. They am usually made ofrolled steel, which rusts. After use, moue the pan and dryvery thoroughly before storing. If you wish to keep left-over paella, store it refrigerated in a covered containerand reheat Ina microwave.Peppers, capsicums; paprika (pimientos; pinsentOn).Spanish markets proffer a number of different sorts ofcapsicum peppershuge bell peppers in green, red andyellow; crinkly, skinny green ones with a crisp taste; small80 piquant-sweet red pie/nino peppers, which are usually

is not widely used in Spanish cooking. Paprika, a spicemade by grinding red peppers, ca n be sweet or piquant.The finest Spanish paprika is made by drying peppers inwoad smoke.

Rice (arred. Use medium-short grain rice, not pilaff rice,for Spanish rice dishes, It does not need washing beforecooking. Spanish rice needs carder monitoring while itcooks, as overcooked, it turns mushy. Remove from heatsource when It is still slightly at dente and allow to restfive minutes to finish cooking from residual heat. Actualcooking time varies considerably, depending on whattyped pan and quantities of liquid used. So, for example,rice in a paella pan cooks more quickly than in anearthenware cazueta.

Saffron tazaferfa). This costly spice is grown in severalregions of Spain. The spice. wispy threads of a deeporange colour, should be crushed (with a mortar andpestle, or in a teacup with the butt-end of a knife), thendissolved in a !Mk liquid before adding to the food to becooked. If real saffron is not available, use instead aspoonful of paprika and/or a few drops of yellow foodcolouring.Vinegar (vinagre). Wine vinegar is used in Spanishcooking. There are 501111, special onesred wine vinegartram Rioja, Sherry vinegar from Jerez, and cam vinegarfrom Catalonia.

Wine Pee). Wines used in cooking include red Pis.,white (hlanto), rose (woods,), sparkling (caw), dry Sherry(vino fillet deRITZ),medium Shelly (sine 010,050 ors 1171,111illIndo de lerez) and sweet Malaga wine Milo muscatelde Malaga).

Index of Recipes


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/VD Blanca Con Urns , 46Ailstndigas Con Salsa de Ahnendras y A zairdn,13Almefas a la Marines , 33Almond Torte, 71Anchovies, Marinated Fresh, 35Anise-Scented Holiday Rings, 67Arroye, 75Arroz Con Leche, 77Eizcocho, 73Boquerones al N atural, 35Borrachos, 73Broth, Garnished, 45Bull's Tail (Braised Ox-Tail), 65Builuelos, 78Cakes, Tipsy, 73Calamams en on Tinta , 29Calamares Fri tos , 4 0Casserole, Asturian of Beans and Sausages, 49Casserole, Seafood, 57Catalan Cu stard, 69Catalan Tom ato Toast, 15Cazdn en Adobe, 1 4Cazuela de Patatas a fa Pobre, 6 1Chicken in Almon d Sauce, 51Ch icken Sizzled with Garlic, 16Clam s Fishermen's Style, 33C o r d s E s p a n o l, 59

Corder al C hi l indron, 6 3Country-Style Potato Salad, 16Creamy R ice Pudding With Cinnamon, 77C r e m a C a t a l ia , 69Cu stard, Catalan, 69Eggs Scrambled With Mushrooms and GreenGarlic, 27Eggs, Flamenco Style, 39Empanada G allego, 2 1E mpanart i llas de Ain ' t, 4 1En salada Cam pera ,16Ensalada de Pimientos Asados, 16Escalivada, 25Espinacas eon Pawls y Pin ones , 28Fabada Asinriana ,4 9Fish, Marinated Fried, 14Fritters, Sweet, 78Fruit in Sweet W ine Syrup, 75Galician Pork Pie, 21Ga ntbas al Pi t Pd, 19Gambas en Gabard ines, 4 1Garlic Soup, Cold W hite, W ith Grapes, 47Gazpacho Andaluz , 4 3Hake, Basque Style, 55

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Heavenly Bacon, 77Hrierios a to Flamen co, 39Hnevos R evneitos Con Setas y Afetes , 27Lamb Braised W ith Sw eet Peppers, 63Langostinos a in Plmichn c a n Salsa de Ronwsco, 17Lomo en Adam, 60Meatballs in Saffron-Almond Sauce, 13Ailef dimes a in Vinagreta, 33Menestrn t ie Verdnras, 27Merl uza a in Vases, 55M ussels Vinaigrette, 3 3Octopus Galician Style, 31Om elette, Spanish Potato, 1 1Orange and Cod Salad, 36Paella Con Mariscos, 53Paella W ith Seafood, 53P an AnzbThInnt,15Palates Bran ts , 37Pepper, Roasted Salad, 16Peppers Stuffed With Fish, 23Pimientos de Piqudlo Rellenos eon Pescado, 23Polio at Alain , 16Polio en Pepitoria , 5 1Pork Loin, Herb-Marinated, 611

Pork Pie, Galician, 21Potato, Spanish Casserole, 61Potato Om elette, 11Potato, Country-Style Salad, 16Potatoes, Hot, 3 7Prawns in Overcoats, 41Prawns, Grilled, With Romesco Sauce, 17Prawn s, Sizzling, 19Pulpit n la Gallops, 3 1Ratio de Tom, 65R e 1 1 1 0 .011, 3 6Rice Pudding, Creamy, With Cinnam on, 77Rice, Paella, 53P e s o s d e Na v i d a d , 67Salad, Country-Style Potato, 16Salad, Orange and C od, 36Salad, Roasted Pepper, 1 6Seafood Casserole, 55

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TAPAS - Janet Mendel