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12 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

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Lookout Qatar18 This and That Chanel watches and fine jewelry arrive

in Doha; the Louis Vuitton Foundation illustrates the link between modern artists of the 20th century and contemporary artists of today; the art of the kimono; Jaeger-LeCoultre takes to the desert.

26 New Direction Always delivering the unexpected,

Dover Street Market reveals its Middle Eastern connection.

28 On the Verge Malaz Elgemiabbys thesis at Virgina

Commonwealth University in Qatar is all about raising awareness about a particular issue in Sudan.

32 In Fashion Couture designers Charles and Patricia

Lester celebrate a remarkable 50 years in business.

Arena Qatar52 By Design With the current boom in design, investing in furniture thats passed on from

one generation to another is growing in popularity.

56 Arts and Letters Kate Lord Brown, a Doha-based author,

talks about her new book and her eternal thirst for untold stories of the past.

TALENT FOCUSPrada's menswear at Dover Street Market.

Page 27

22 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

Since opening in October last year, the Louis Vuitton Foundation has been defining its role through a series of introductory exhibitions, including Keys to a

Passion. Illustrating the link between modern artists in the 20th century and contemporary artists today, the exhibition presents major works that stand out

as important historical reference points. I wanted the foundation to express this historical and founding scope through works that we deem to be keys to the creations of the 20th century, works that elicit true passion, says the president of Louis Vuitton Mot Hennessy (LVMH

Group), Bernard Arnault. These works, including Claude Monets Water Lilies and Piet Mondrians Dunes, share the element of being ahead of their

time and have acquired iconic status as pieces that are widely studied and debated. Curated by Suzanne Pag and Beatrice Parent, with Isabelle Monod-

Fontaine as scientific adviser, the project was a monumental task of loaning key exhibits that belong to different museums all around the world. Many of

these works are difficult to see firsthand. They have been brought together here to offer visitors the irreplaceable experience that comes from an

emotional and personal encounter with a unique work of art, Pag explains. The exhibition runs until July 6 at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, Avenue du

Mahatma Gandhi, Paris. DEBRINA ALIYAH

Keys to a Passion

The kimono collection owned by the kimono master Suemi Nishiwaki, coupled with a number of abaya designs by Asma Sckali, saw two diverse cultures and distinct female garments take center stage. The abaya collection was heavily influenced by Japanese traditions.

The event was held to mark the Cherry Blossom Festival celebrated in Japan. It included a Chakai tea ceremony as well as a performance by student drummers of the Japanese School of Doha.

The fashion event was organized after six months of collaboration between the team in Qatar, the Japanese Embassy in Doha and Hiroko Kitazume in Tokyo. Kitazume, the wife of a former Japanese ambassador to Doha, collaborated on this initiative and invited Nishiwaki to showcase her collection of over 1,000 kimonos. Nishiwaki is regarded as one of the most prolific kimono collectors in Japan. She is also an assistant professor of Intercultural Studies at the Yamaguchi Prefectural University. The Doha

audience was exposed to the culture of kimono draping, and the various styles of the clothing that are worn during the different stages of a womans life. Owing to the detailed handwork that goes into making a kimono, one garment can cost up to $100,000 (QR363, 968). Some of the kimonos on display in Doha took three years to complete. Bridal pieces are, of course, much more expensive.

Owning a kimono is not a luxury for all Japanese women. Brides-to-be often need to rent one for their wedding. The rental price for a few hours can go up to a few million Yen, Kitazume says.

Many local Qatari women have asked if they can buy one of these unique kimonos, said Nishiwaki, who brought along a few pieces that were on sale. ABIGAIL MATHIAS

Rites of Passage

Lookout Qatar This and That

The Louis Vuitton Foundation champions contemporary art within the cultural landscape of

Paris, in the colossal and cutting-edge FrankGehry-designed building.

A kimono fashion fusion show brought together Qatar and Japan in a display of culture and

style.

NEW AND OLDxxxxxxx

FASHION FROM THE EASTInset: The kimono master Suemi Nishiwaki; Kimonos dispalyed during the fusion fashion show at St. Regis, Doha.

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Since opening in October last year, the Louis Vuitton Foundation has been defining its role through a series of introductory exhibitions, including Keys to a

Passion. Illustrating the link between modern artists in the 20th century and contemporary artists today, the exhibition presents major works that stand out

as important historical reference points. I wanted the foundation to express this historical and founding scope through works that we deem to be keys to the creations of the 20th century, works that elicit true passion, says the president of Louis Vuitton Mot Hennessy (LVMH

Group), Bernard Arnault. These works, including Claude Monets Water Lilies and Piet Mondrians Dunes, share the element of being ahead of their

time and have acquired iconic status as pieces that are widely studied and debated. Curated by Suzanne Pag and Beatrice Parent, with Isabelle Monod-

Fontaine as scientific adviser, the project was a monumental task of loaning key exhibits that belong to different museums all around the world. Many of

these works are difficult to see firsthand. They have been brought together here to offer visitors the irreplaceable experience that comes from an

emotional and personal encounter with a unique work of art, Pag explains. The exhibition runs until July 6 at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, Avenue du

Mahatma Gandhi, Paris. DEBRINA ALIYAH

Keys to a Passion

Lookout Qatar This and That

The Louis Vuitton Foundation champions contemporary art within the cultural landscape of

Paris, in the colossal and cutting-edge FrankGehry-designed building.

NEW AND OLD"Three Women" by Fernand Lger, on loan from the Museum of Modern Art, New York

30 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

New Direction

The Elite ClubThat Dover Street Market is a fashion beacon is not a mystery, but that Middle Eastern designers there rub shoulders with the likes of Comme des Garons and

Sacai is a revelation.

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

Lookout Qatar

IN THE MID-2000s, shopping at Dover Street Market was comparable to the secret handshake of the cool kids. An eclectic following of the artsy types, the fashion insiders and the non-mainstream dressers gladly traversed to Londons Dover Street, a place that was very much under the radar. Comme des Garons Rei Kawakubo led the multi-brand concept an assortment of giant brands with fresh names, resulting in a unique aesthetic quite like Kawakubos own.

A decade later, the concept has established roots in Tokyo, Beijing and, most recently, New York. The visionary yet encompassing merchandizing of the stores has amassed not only discerning shoppers but enthusiastic designers, who look forward to being featured seasonally. Dover Street Markets practice of shutting the stores biannually to reveal entirely new concepts each season was conceived by Kawakubo, who still today designs key spaces within each outpost. Designers and brands are given the freedom to curate and stylize their own space a philosophy of creation championed by Dover Street Market. Adrian Joffe, Kawakubo's husband and the president of Comme des Garons, says, We like to share our space with anyone who has a vision and sense of the importance of creation. It can be anything strong, creative and original, Joffe says. The DNA of Comme des Garons as a brand that is forward, exciting and constantly evolving has been imprinted into the philosophy of the duos work in DSM, a retail space that is unexpected and always keeps both fans and designers on their toes.

Well-traveled Arab shoppers are no strangers to the merry playground of Dover Street Market, especially its London store. It is a relationship that was cultivated some three decades ago when Comme des Garons was first introduced to the region through the famed Al Ostoura boutique in Kuwait. The success of the collections and the understanding of the philosophy of Comme des Garons made it easy for Arab clients to relate to the colorful concept of Dover Street Market.

Some of our most loyal clients are from the Middle East. Their tastes are extremely sophisticated and refined, and they buy very strong signature pieces from Dover Street Market, Joffe says.

Dover Street Markets position of being able to house brands that are worlds apart under one roof is unique, creating an unexpected synergy. On one hand, theres the overarching luxury offering of exclusive capsule creations from Prada and Nicolas Ghesquires

CREATIVE VISIONKawakubo remains the quiet creative strength behind both Commes des Garon and Dover Street Market.

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31May - June 2015

specially-designed Louis Vuitton space. On the other, the gritty urban interpretation of Hood by Air goes with obscure sneaker brands that only the most devoted will know. The main narrative in all the stores, naturally, is anchored by the multi-faceted Comme des Garons collections, from runway to special projects. And in the midst of it all, art installations serendipitously fill the space. Kawakubos vision to focus on talent and the limitless possibilities of being different has made Dover Street Market an invaluable launching platform for emerging designers of all backgrounds. Sacai, Jonathan Anderson, Simone Rocha and Delfina Delettrez are among those who have achieved success after starting with us. We are proud of that, Joffe says. It is also a proposition that is especially relevant in an age where the lines in fashion are blurred beyond genres, genders and market positioning.

Designers from the Middle East are very much part of the equation, too. The widely celebrated Lebanese designer Rabih Kayrouz leads the pack which now includes jewelers Noor Fares,

Suzanne Kalan, Dina Kamal and Dalila Barkache, whose works are available at Dover Street Market. Kayrouz moved from couture to focus on ready-to-wear in 2012 and has found support and friendship in the Dover Street Market team.

We share the same visions and values, and in promoting our brand to their clients, they become ambassadors to the brand, Kayrouz says. Both Fares and Kalan specialize in fine jewelry, and while having built niche clientele in the world of luxury, Dover Street Market has expanded its exposure to a new audience.

It opens peoples eyes to amazing creations in an inspirational avant-garde store. This has given me a scope to develop as a designer, Fares says.

Theres a lot of optimism regarding the rise of talent in the Arab world. Though some designers have been eschewed by industry players in the West for their difference in aesthetics, Dover Street Market is fiercely open-minded to diverse points of view.

There is no one kind we look for, Joffe asserts. There is so much talent from the region, without a doubt. We can support them by offering spaces, working on installations and events, and of course, buying their collections. From an emerging designers perspective, this approach is a spring board that is unrivaled by other stockists, as not only does the personalized visual merchandising helps them tell their stories, but the integrated marketing also serves as an all-in-one engagement with the right people in the industry.

They know the needs of their customers and the capability of their designers very well, Kalan says. And of course, it is a badge of honor being selected by Dover Street Market is like earning Kawakubos stamp of approval on the designers work, and this is indeed noteworthy in fashion circles. Its quite a compliment to have a presence at Dover Street Market, Kalan adds.

CURATED SPACES Clockwise from left: Prada's menswear at Dover Street Market New York; Kayrouz was among the first Arab designers spotted by Dover Street Market; Commes des Garons' space at Dover Street Market London; JW Anderson's collection at Dover Street Market Ginza in Japan. Below: Joffe has been the engine driving Kawakubo's vision.