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Ref: 2506313 BIG JIMS GARDEN CENTRE 20x3 www.taranakidailynews.co.nz Friday, February 19, 2010 TARANAKI DAILY NEWS 13 G ARDENING www.taranakidailynews.co.nz T-budding an apple tree: a step-by-step guide with Abbie and Mark Jury Photos: ROBERT CHARLES 1 All apple trees you buy are grafted or budded on to dwarfing or semi-dwarfing apple stock. This uses the roots of a smaller-growing plant and the top of a good fruiting variety. These apple trees are about 40 years old and only 1.8 metres tall. Home gardeners may wish to bud a preferred variety on to an existing, but underperforming, apple tree or to bud several types of apples on to one plant. 2 Budding should always be done on a fine day and with no rain forecast for the next 24 hours. It involves attaching a single leaf bud on to a stem of the root stock. Use buds from this season’s new growth, selecting a stem about the thickness of a pencil. Remove the leaves and, using a very sharp, clean knife, cut off, in one piece, the bud and the bit of the stem behind the bud that gives a shield for the bud. 3 Make two cuts in the shape of a T on the root stock plant. Budding is more successful on growth that was made last year, so it is firm but not too old and woody. Make the vertical cut about 2cm long. Provided you have your timing right, the bark layer will lift away easily, allowing you to slide the bud into the bark. We are demonstrating budding an additional variety on to a plant in a planter bag, but you can equally bud on to plants already in your garden or orchard. If you have a plant grown from a seed, you may wish to bud on to that to get a reliable cropping variety. It is more likely you will have a seedling or under- performing avocado, peach or plum and you may wish to try the same technique to turn those root stocks into good croppers. You have to keep to the same plant type – an avocado bud on to avocado root stock, peach on peach, apple to apple. 4 Often, three buds are inserted to increase success rates. Gently insert the bud and push down, so that the back of the bud (the shield) is flush with the root-stock stem. Timing for T-budding is critical – now is good for apples, pears, plums, peaches and nectarines. If you cannot lift the bark layer, you will need to chip bud instead and we will show this technique next time. 5 We use plastic tying strips as shown here, but you can cut your own from plastic bags. We prefer plastic to the old-fashioned raffia or to rubber bands. It is better at keeping out moisture and easier to tie firmly but not so tightly that it cuts into the bark and bud. 6 Wrap the stem firmly to hold the bud or buds snugly in place. Start from the bottom and work your way up, covering the whole area except the bud. Secure the end of the tie so it cannot unravel (usually done by looping it back through itself). 7 Leave the plant until winter, by which time it should be clear that the bud has fused to the stem and has not rotted. Remove the tie and cut the plant back to the successful bud. The fresh growth in spring will be your chosen variety that you have budded on to the old plant. Michelia alba Probably the most fragrant tree we know, Michelia alba is in flower now and will be for most of summer. The flowers are definitely not spectacular to look at, being small and rather sparse for the size of the tree, spidery in form and cream. But for a knock-you-down fragrance that permeates the air all round, alba is amazing. In fact, it is apparently the fragrance of Joy perfume. The tree gives us a few worries, because it is growing considerably larger and faster than we anticipated and we wonder if we have it planted in the right place. Glyn Church tells us he had to cut one of his out because it outgrew its position. At least it is upright, rather than spreading, and its foliage is a lush tropical green all year – possibly because it comes from tropical and subtropical areas of Asia. Michelias have now been reclassified as magnolias – a somewhat arbitrary decision we do not agree with, so we continue to use the former names. Alba was given to us by an elderly Chinese gentleman who told us that it was sacred and we could sell one to every Chinese family in New Zealand. We tried – believe me, we tried – but it does not set seed and it rarely strikes from cutting, so it has to be grafted and it is not easy to reproduce that way, either. We have seen it used as a street tree throughout Asia and we think horticulturists there aerial layer it. For the botanically interested, current information is that alba is probably a natural hybrid from the orange-flowered Michelia champaca and all alba plants throughout the world are therefore the one clone. Champaca sets seed freely, but we have yet to hear of anybody who has proven experience with alba showing fertility. The plant appears to be a genetic dead end. – Abbie Jury Chateau de la Roche Jagu, France About 10km inland from Tre ´guier in the Brittany region, on a wooded slope above the Trieux river, stands the 15th-century Cha ˆ teau de la Roche Jagu. While there is a charge to see the building, the gardens are free. The solid medieval castle has grounds to match, even though they were only laid out in 1990. While purists say medieval gardens wouldn’t have known most of the plants (camellias, agapanthus, hemerocallis and penstemons were introduced much later), visitors will like the willow- wicker raised beds and other examples of 15th-century garden design. The whole is surrounded by picket fences and hedges of bay, box and laurustinus. There are also long strips of crops – linen, buckwheat and other useful plants. And the views down to the river are wonderful.

T-budding an apple tree: a step-by-step guide with Abbie and Mark Jury

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All apple trees you buy are grafted or budded on to dwarfing or semi-dwarfing apple stock. This uses the roots of a smaller-growing plant and the top of a good fruiting variety. These apple trees are about 40 years old and only 1.8 metres tall. Home gardeners may wish to bud a preferred variety on to an exis

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Page 1: T-budding an apple tree: a step-by-step guide with Abbie and Mark Jury

Ref: 2506313

BIG JIMS GARDEN CENTRE

20x3

www.taranakidailynews.co.nz Friday, February 19, 2010 TARANAKI DAILY NEWS 13

GARDENING www.taranakidailynews.co.nz

T-budding an apple tree: a step-by-step guidewith Abbie and Mark Jury

Photos: ROBERT CHARLES

1All apple trees you buy are grafted or budded on to dwarfing or semi-dwarfingapple stock. This uses the roots of a smaller-growing plant and the top of agood fruiting variety. These apple trees are about 40 years old and only 1.8

metres tall. Home gardeners may wish to bud a preferred variety on to an existing,but underperforming, apple tree or to bud several types of apples on to one plant.

2Budding should alwaysbe done on a fine dayand with no rain forecast

for the next 24 hours. Itinvolves attaching a single leafbud on to a stem of the rootstock. Use buds from thisseason’s new growth, selecting astem about the thickness of apencil. Remove the leaves and,using a very sharp, clean knife, cut off, in one piece, the bud and the bit of the stembehind the bud that gives a shield for the bud.

3Make two cuts in the shapeof a T on the root stockplant. Budding is more

successful on growth that wasmade last year, so it is firmbut not too old and woody.Make the vertical cut about2cm long. Provided youhave your timing right, thebark layer will lift awayeasily, allowing you toslide the bud into the bark.We are demonstratingbudding an additionalvariety on to a plant in aplanter bag, but you canequally bud on to plantsalready in your gardenor orchard. If you have aplant grown from a seed,you may wish to bud onto that to get a reliablecropping variety. It is morelikely you will have aseedling or under-performing avocado, peachor plum and you may wish totry the same technique toturn those root stocks intogood croppers. You have tokeep to the same plant type –an avocado bud on to avocadoroot stock, peach on peach,apple to apple.4Often, three buds are

inserted to increasesuccess rates. Gently insert

the bud and push down, so thatthe back of the bud (the shield)is flush with the root-stockstem. Timing for T-budding iscritical – now is good forapples, pears, plums, peachesand nectarines. If you cannotlift the bark layer, you willneed to chip bud instead andwe will show this techniquenext time.

5We use plastic tying strips as shown here, but you can cut your own fromplastic bags. We prefer plastic to the old-fashioned raffia or to rubber bands.It is better at keeping out moisture and easier to tie firmly but not so tightly

that it cuts into the bark and bud.

6Wrap the stem firmly to hold the bud or buds snugly in place. Start from thebottom and work your way up, covering the whole area except the bud.Secure the end of the tie so it cannot unravel (usually done by looping it back

through itself).

7Leave the plant untilwinter, by which timeit should be clear that

the bud has fused to thestem and has not rotted.Remove the tie and cut theplant back to the successfulbud. The fresh growth inspring will be your chosenvariety that you have buddedon to the old plant.

Michelia albaProbably the most fragrant tree weknow, Michelia alba is in flowernow and will be for most ofsummer. The flowers are definitelynot spectacular to look at, beingsmall and rather sparse for the sizeof the tree, spidery in form andcream. But for a knock-you-downfragrance that permeates the air allround, alba is amazing. In fact, it isapparently the fragrance of Joyperfume. The tree gives us a fewworries, because it is growingconsiderably larger and faster thanwe anticipated and we wonder ifwe have it planted in the rightplace. Glyn Church tells us he hadto cut one of his out because itoutgrew its position. At least it isupright, rather than spreading, and

its foliage is a lush tropical greenall year – possibly because it comesfrom tropical and subtropical areasof Asia.

Michelias have now beenreclassified as magnolias – asomewhat arbitrary decision we donot agree with, so we continue touse the former names. Alba wasgiven to us by an elderly Chinesegentleman who told us that it wassacred and we could sell one toevery Chinese family in NewZealand. We tried – believe me, wetried – but it does not set seed andit rarely strikes from cutting, so ithas to be grafted and it is not easyto reproduce that way, either. Wehave seen it used as a street treethroughout Asia and we thinkhorticulturists there aerial layer it.

For the botanically interested,current information is that alba isprobably a natural hybrid from theorange-flowered Micheliachampaca and all alba plantsthroughout the world are thereforethe one clone. Champaca sets seedfreely, but we have yet to hear ofanybody who has provenexperience with alba showingfertility. The plant appears to be agenetic dead end.

– Abbie Jury

Chateau de laRoche Jagu, FranceAbout 10km inland from Treguierin the Brittany region, on a woodedslope above the Trieux river,stands the 15th-century Chateau dela Roche Jagu. While there is acharge to see the building, thegardens are free.

The solid medieval castle hasgrounds to match, even thoughthey were only laid out in 1990.While purists say medievalgardens wouldn’t have known mostof the plants (camellias,

agapanthus, hemerocallis andpenstemons were introduced muchlater), visitors will like the willow-wicker raised beds and otherexamples of 15th-century gardendesign.

The whole is surrounded bypicket fences and hedges of bay,box and laurustinus. There are alsolong strips of crops – linen,buckwheat and other useful plants.And the views down to the riverare wonderful.