1
8/8/2019 A laissez-faire approach to summer care for apple trees: a step-by-step guide with Abbie and Mark Jury http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/a-laissez-faire-approach-to-summer-care-for-apple-trees-a-step-by-step-guide 1/1  YES!! We have a Garden Centre stocked with a wonderful F  R E  S  H ,   H   E  A    L    T    H     Y    P      L     A     N      T     S GET GET PLANTING PLANTING NOW! NOW! selection of Trees, Shrubs, Our knowledgeable, experienced staff are ready to help you choose the correct choice for your garden. Relaxed shopping in a natural outdoor setting where healthy plants are top priority. Fruit Trees, Perennials, Herbs and Bedding Plants all ready for planting this weekend    G   o   o  d g   r   o   w   t   h i  s g  a  in  e  d fr  o  m grea  t knowleCall us today on (06) 758 8831 Open 7 days 8.30am–5.00pm Cnr Mangorei & Junction Road, New Plymouth       3       3       9       8       1       1       0       A       A 3398110AA  in  e LOOK!  Tupare guided walk (8am) Farmers Market (9.30am)  Tomorrow Sat 8th Friday, January 7, 2011 T  ARANAKI D AILY NEWS 11 G  ARDENING www.taranakidailynews.co.nz A laissez-faire approach to summer care for apple trees: a step-by-step guide with Abbie and Mark Jury. Photos:ABBIE JURY 1 Apple trees can survive and continue to crop despite total neglect, but you will get much better results if you give them some attention. This huge old Granny Smith apple tree has not been touched for many, many years and shows why it is better to start with grafted apples on dwarf root stock. This tree is destined to be cut out in favour of our smaller trees, which are easier to care for. 2 Apple trees are currently sporting their new growth, which shows as long leafy whips. It is this growth that will give replacement fruiting spurs next summer. Ideally, you should be replacing all fruiting spurs on a two- to four- year cycle – cutting out old clusters and allowing fresh ones to take their place. 3 Trim the long whips back to about half their length to encourage the fruiting spurs to develop. Surplus whips can be cut right back to a bunch of fruit. You want to keep the tree open and uncluttered to allow the fruit to ripen well. 4 If your apples are looking too bunched up, it is best to thin out the fruit so those that remain will be better quality. The tree will drop some surplus fruit before it is ripe, but thinning ensures you keep the best specimens and s the weight of the fruit from breaking branches. Cut off very small or rmed fruit, reducing bunches to between two and four fruit. Some people mmend taking out the centre apple from a bunch to give those around it m to develop fully. 5 Codling moth is the single biggest problem and the caterpillars can take out an entire crop if infestation is left unchecked. They burrow into the apple, leaving nasty black tunnels. It is too late this season to try organic controls (pheromone traps and collars on the trunk of the tree). You need to start in early spring. We are resorting to insecticide spray this year to try to break the cycle. December to February is the time for spraying. It is recommended that it be done fortnightly, but we will only spray once or twice. 6 We do not carry out a rigorous spray programme, so our trees show black spot, mildew, leaf curl and various other afflictions, but we still get crops of apples. Traditional practice is to spray with both insecticide and fungicide every 10 to 14 days after the blossom petals have dropped until harvest – ask at your local garden centre for appropriate sprays. Spraying will give heavier crops of more attractive fruit, but we are willing to trade that off by having additional trees and not spraying much at all. The leaf curl shown here is caused by a tiny orange midge and is easily dealt with by cutting off the tips of the branches and burning the leaves. ma wallichiisubspecies nhae (probably) on a bit of a search for the accurate name of this tree in flower, trying out whether it was Schima wallichii ma noronhae. The naming of plants fluid affair and reclassification s often, but schimas are more like and than fluid. They are described most recent authoritative tome on New Trees) as simply a mess. What now is schima are a somewhat tree family from subtropical and Asia and this particular specimen r large. We live in a two-storey with reasonably tall gables and this lose to a third storey level. ittle white five-petalled flowers are nough en masse this week, but it is w growth at the end of October I like he fresh young leaves are bright een and it is like a large beacon in ance. Soon after the new leaves it drops all its old leaves in a h. It is an evergreen – it is never totally bare – but most evergreen trees gently shed old leaves all the time, not in one hit. We have a number of schimas here (S. khasiana is even larger) but as far as we can make out, this one is S. noronhae. They belong to the theaceae family and are distant relatives of both camellias and gordonias. Schimas are commonly raised from seed; there don’t appear to be named clones yet, though in time, no doubt, there will be selections made to be grown by people with plenty of space and very mild conditions. – Abbie Jury

A laissez-faire approach to summer care for apple trees: a step-by-step guide with Abbie and Mark Jury

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8/8/2019 A laissez-faire approach to summer care for apple trees: a step-by-step guide with Abbie and Mark Jury

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/a-laissez-faire-approach-to-summer-care-for-apple-trees-a-step-by-step-guide 1/1

 YES!!We have a Garden Centrestocked with a wonderful

F R E S H,

  H  E A   L

   T   H    Y

   P     L    A    N     T

    SGETGET

PLANTINGPLANTING

NOW!NOW!

selection of Trees, Shrubs,

Our knowledgeable, experienced staff areready to help you choose the correct choice for

your garden.

Relaxed shopping in anatural outdoor settingwhere healthy plants

are top priority.

Fruit Trees, Perennials, Herbs andBedding Plants all ready for planting

this weekend

   G  o  o d

g  r  o  w  t

  h i s g a i n e d

f r o m grea t knowled g e 

Call us today on (06) 758 8831

Open 7 days 8.30am–5.00pmCnr Mangorei & Junction Road,

New Plymouth

      3      3      9      8      1      1      0      A      A

3398110AA

 i n e

LOOK! Tupare guided walk (8am)

Farmers Market (9.30am)

 Tomorrow Sat 8th

Friday, January 7, 2011 T ARANAKI D AILY  NEWS 11

G ARDENING www.taranakidailynews.co.nz

A laissez-faire approach to summer care for apple trees:a step-by-step guide with Abbie andMark Jury.

Photos:ABBIE JURY

1Apple trees cansurvive andcontinue to crop

despite total neglect,but you will getmuch better resultsif you give themsome attention.This huge oldGranny Smithapple tree has notbeen touched formany, manyyears andshows why it isbetter to startwith graftedapples ondwarf rootstock. Thistree is

destined tobe cut out in

favour of oursmaller trees,

which areeasier to care

for.

2Apple trees are currently sporting their new growth, which shows as longleafy whips. It is this growth that will give replacement fruiting spurs nextsummer. Ideally, you should be replacing all fruiting spurs on a two- to four-

year cycle – cutting out old clusters and allowing fresh ones to take their place.3

Trim the long whips back to about half their length to encourage the fruitingspurs to develop. Surplus whips can be cut right back to a bunch of fruit.You want to keep the tree open and uncluttered to allow the fruit to ripen

well.

4If your apples are looking too bunched up, it is best to thin out the fruit sothose that remain will be better quality. The tree will drop some surplus fruitbefore it is ripe, but thinning ensures you keep the best specimens and

s the weight of the fruit from breaking branches. Cut off very small orrmed fruit, reducing bunches to between two and four fruit. Some peoplemmend taking out the centre apple from a bunch to give those around it

m to develop fully.

5Codling moth is the single biggest problem and the caterpillars can take outan entire crop if infestation is left unchecked. They burrow into the apple,leaving nasty black tunnels. It is too late this season to try organic controls

(pheromone traps and collars on the trunk of the tree). You need to start in earlyspring. We are resorting to insecticide spray this year to try to break the cycle.December to February is the time for spraying. It is recommended that it be done

fortnightly, but we will only spray once or twice.

6We do not carry out a rigorous spray programme, so our trees show black spot, mildew, leaf curl and various other afflictions, but we still get cropsof apples. Traditional practice is to spray with both insecticide and

fungicide every 10 to 14 days after the blossom petals have dropped untilharvest – ask at your local garden centre for appropriate sprays. Spraying willgive heavier crops of more attractive fruit, but we are willing to trade that off byhaving additional trees and not spraying much at all. The leaf curl shown hereis caused by a tiny orange midge and is easily dealt with by cutting off the tips

of the branches and burning the leaves.

ma wallichii subspecies

nhae(probably)

on a bit of a search for the accuratename of this tree in flower, trying

out whether it was Schima wallichiima noronhae. The naming of plants

fluid affair and reclassifications often, but schimas are more likeand than fluid. They are describedmost recent authoritative tome onNew Trees) as simply a mess. What

now is schima are a somewhattree family from subtropical and

Asia and this particular specimenr large. We live in a two-storey

with reasonably tall gables and thislose to a third storey level.

ittle white five-petalled flowers arenough en masse this week, but it is

w growth at the end of October I likehe fresh young leaves are bright

een and it is like a large beacon inance. Soon after the new leavesit drops all its old leaves in a

h. It is an evergreen – it is never

totally bare – but most evergreen treesgently shed old leaves all the time, not inone hit.

We have a number of schimas here (S.khasiana is even larger) but as far as we

can make out, this one is S. noronhae.They belong to the theaceae family and aredistant relatives of both camellias andgordonias. Schimas are commonly raisedfrom seed; there don’t appear to be named

clones yet, though in time, no doubt, therewill be selections made to be grown bypeople with plenty of space and very mildconditions.

– Abbie Jury