Sutura Style Fall 2015

2015

FALL

HOLIDAY GLAMOURFROM CAROLINA HERRERA

Sewing StyleDenim Skirts

MEET THEKINGS OFCOTTON

Fall Fabric Trends

Check out our picks

Quick Couture

Add a Dash of Style

in Minutes

Inside Matters A

Sewer’s Guide to

Interfacing

“IndependenceIt’s in Our Jeans”

Serger StyleChoosing a Five ThreadMachine

Page 4

Featured ArticleMeet The Kings ofCotton

Page 10

Inside this Issue

Story Page 22

TEXTILES

QuiltingLove Without Borders

Page 15

Embroidery CornerUp-style jeans into funskirts.

Page 24

Elegance & GlamourCarolina Herrera’sGorgeous Gowns

Page 15

Quick CoutureEasy Shawls for Fall

Page 36

Cover Photo: Ovidiu Hrubaru / Shutterstock.com

3

COMING November 2015

The U80 Wedding DressFrom a T-Shirt to a Wedding Dress

UNDER $80 UNDER 80 MINUTES ON A SERGER

Look for the new video at www.suturastyle.com, November 2015.

4

SERGE LIKE A PRO

The words are synonymous; Serger and Overlock

Machine. Yet my spell check doesn’t like either

term. I need to teach my PC to sew.

Picking a new serger/overlock machine can be an

intimidating process. These machines start at

around $500 so it’s no small investment in your

sewing room. With that much (and up to $2000)

on the line it is no wonder that so many people

seek out the advice of those who already own one.

Pattern Review.com is a great website

(http://sewing.patternreview.com)•that features

thousands of reviews for sewing machines, serg-

ers and patterns. It was my one-stop place to read

about machines when it came time to make a pur-

chase. But online reviews do not replace experi-

ence so I visited several dealers to try various

brands. The results were pretty surprising.

When making a decision, one needs to bear in

mind that there are several manufacturers to

choose from and they all have at least one ma-

chine that has great reviews. However, there are

names that seem to stand out from the crowd for

consistently delivering a solid machine. These

brands include Singer, Juki, Pfaff and, of course,

BabyLock. Since budget is a primary concern for

most prosumers, the machines are presented in

categories based upon average retail price.

Choosing a Five Thread Serger

Fall Machine Reviews: Sergers and Overlock Machines

5

Five-thread sergers have the ability to create theSafety Stitch most often found in Ready to Wearapparel. These machines really deliver a profes-sional finish. Each machine has a score out of 5for the major features to make comparison easi-er.

Built-in Stitches: Double Chain Stitch, 2-ThreadWrapped Edge Overlock, 2-Thread Overlock, 3-Thread Overlock, 3-Thread Ultra-Stretch MockSafety Stitch, 4-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safe-ty Stitch, 4-Thread Safety Stitch, 5-Thread SafetyStitch (Wide & Narrow), Cover Hem Stitch (Wide& Narrow), Triple Cover Hem Stitch, 3- ThreadRolled Hem. While this machine is really loadedfor the price, I’m docking 1.5 points be- cause it ita bit of work to change from serger mode to coverstitch. Score: 3.5/5

Flexibility: With 6 feet out of the box the SingerPro 5 •14T968DC is all set to do a multitude ofcool tasks. Additionally, the clear view feet fromany Viking dealer fit this machine so the possi-bilities are fantastic. For affordable attachments(the same attachments are over $300 for the Ja-nome 900 and 1000 CX machines) and flexibili-ty, this machine really rocks. Score: 5/5

Threading Method: Manual. This is the biggestcomplaint from other owners of this machine.Actually, it seems relatively easy compared tosome of the older serger models, as the Pro 5 fea-tures automatic lower looper and cover looperthreading. Still, I can’t discount the frustrationreported in several reviews. Score: 3/5

Tension: Automatic tension. I haven’t sewn any-thing that caused me to need to adjust this butother owners have struggled with heavy fabrics. Ibelieve this to be less of a tension problem andmore of a space problem. Score: 4/5

Speed and Power: 1300 s.p.m. and decentpiercing power. Score: 3.5/5

Strength: I made this separate from powerbecause although the machine is very power-ful, the presser foot does not lift up very highso you can’t get the full strength out of themachine. Score: 3/5

Price: This machine comes with 6 feet

and goes for $419 at Amazon .com.

When it comes to price, it can’t be beat.

INTRODUCING THE UNDER $600

SERGERS

Singer Pro 5 14T968DC

6

The Juki MO-655 is visually closest

to an industrial serger, with front

dials and a flat tension face. Here’s

how it added up.

Price: If you want to really get the

best bang for the buck then

Allbrands.com has it for $599 with

all 8 feet, a carry case, 100 organ

needles for the machine, the elec-

tronic workbook and a 10 year war-

rantee from the dealer which is a lot

better than 30 days from Ama- zon

.com. When it comes to price, this

is a great value.

Built In Stitches: 2-Thread Chain

Stitch, 5-Thread Safety Stitch, 4-

Thread Overlock, 3-Thread Flat

lock, 3-Thread Narrow Overlock,

3-Thread Overlock, 3-Thread

Rolled Hem, 2-Thread Rolled Hem,

2-Thread Overcast. Score 3.5/5

Flexibility: With 8 feet included,

this machine has all the expansion

capabilities most sewers will use on

a overlock machine. The big nega-

tive here is that is does not do a

cover stitch so many of the stitches

that can be done on other machines

in this category are inaccessible.

Score: 3.5/5

Threading: Manual. The Juki has a

looper release mechanism making it

slightly easier to thread than tra-

ditional sergers. Score: 3.5/5

Speed and Power: 1500 stitches per

minute and great piercing power.

It’s a Juki. It’s a beast. Score: 5/5

Strength: The extra high lift on the

foot gives you full access to all the

machine can do. Score: 5/5

All, in all this is a great machine for

the money except that it doesn’t do

any cover stitches. If you predomi-

nantly sew woven fabrics, or are

willing to invest in a separate cover

hem machine, this might be the best

buy for you.

The other machine in this category

is the BabyLock Diana. The few re-

views I was able to find show this to

be a reliable machine. Pity it’s so

hard to find.

The Juki MO-655 Courtesy of Juki International Inc.

Juki MO-655

7

The Huskylock S21 and the Pfaff 3.0 areessentially the same machine, rebranded.

Five ThreadSergersunder $1000

Singer, Pfaff and Viking are all part of SVP Worldwide

which is now owned by a private equity firm, Kohlberg

& Company. So, presser feet are interchangeable on all

three brands. The HuskyLock and the Pfaff 3.0 go for

around $899-$999. When I went to demo one at the

Viking store I was quoted $1099. Perhaps a little

negotiating can help. The additional space to the right

of the needle is sweet and the extension table adds

stability.

Price: At double the price of the comparitive Singer,

buyers should shop around to get the best price.

Remember that a good warrantee adds enormous

value. Score: 3/5 - 4.5/5 (depending on warrantee)

Built In Stitches: All the same stitches as the Singer

Pro 5. Score 5/5

Flexibility: There are numerous feet and attachments

for these two machines giving owners optimal flexibili-

ty. Pity the extra feet are also an extra purchase.

Score: 4/5

Threading: The same as the Singer but with the ability

to open the left side of the machine bed. Score: 4/5

Speed and Power: 1300 s.p.m. and good piercing pow-

er. Score: 5/5

Strength: The presser foot lift is still lower than other

machines. Score: 2.5/5

If you can negotiate a good warrantee, free classes and

get some cool feet thrown in, then these machines are a

sweet deal.

HuskyLock S21

8

This is Juki’s top of the line 5

thread domestic serger. And it

has gotten some of the best

reviews online – for very good

reasons. Top of the list? It is a

Juki, and thus extremely

powerful. Reviews consistently

recorded the ability to handle

pretty much anything you can

throw at it as a huge plus.

Price: Squeezing in at $999.00

online the MO-755 is the top

priced machine in this category.

Flexibility: The 8 feet for the

MO-655 also fit this machine

and a smart negotiator will

either get them thrown in or try

to get a discount to purchase

them for under $100. The really

cool thing is that some of the

accessories for Juki’s industrial

cover stitch machines fit this

model so you can save big bucks

when it comes time to stock up

on all the little extras. Score:

5/5

Threading: Manual – lay in.

The 7 series Juki also has a

looper release mechanism

making it fairly easy to thread

once you get the hang of it. The

big deal is – again – switching

from cover stitch to serger.

Score: 4/5

Tension: Manual. Score: 3.5/5

Speed and Power: 1500 stitches per

minute and great piercing power.It’s

a Juki. It’s a beast. Juki has packed

some of their renowned industrial

power into this machine. Score: 5/5

Strength: The extra high lift on the

foot gives you full access to all the

machine can do. Score: 5/5

Stitches: 4-thread coverstitch, wide

(5.0 mm), 3-thread coverstitch, (5.0

mm/2.5mm), 2-thread chainstitch,

5-thread safety seam, wide 4-thread

overlock seam, 3-thread overlock

seam, wide/narrow, 3-thread super-

stretch, 3-thread flatlock seam, 3-

thread Blank Stitch, wide/narrow,

3-thread rolled seam, 3-thread rolled

hem, 2-thread overlock seaM,

wide/narrow, 2-thread flatlock seam,

wide/narrow, 2-thread rolled hem.

Score: 5/5

If Juki had thrown in air threading

this would be my pick. As it stands,

you’ll get great value for what you’ve

paid based on the glowing reviews.

9

Over $1000

BabyLock Sets the Pace

Think of BabyLock as the MercedesBenz of sergers. The top of the lineEvolution, with 8-thread capability,features ExtraordinAir, that threadsthe machine for you with a gust ofair. A cool perk if you don’t mindspending the extra cash.

Price: Closing in on $2000 thesemachines are well out of the reachof many sewers but owner’s say thatBabyLock machines are worth it.

Built-in Stitches: 87 stitch functionsincluding the wave stitch. Machinesin the lower price ranges havespecialty feet that deliver a wavystitch for dance costumes but lackthe BabyLock thread deliverysystem which reportedly deliversperfect stitches everytime. With 87stitches BabyLock wins thiscategory hands down. Score 5/5

Flexibility: It can cover stitch andoverlock at the same time. Need Isay more? The accessories can bereally pricey - just like the parts for aperformance vehicle. That said, it iswell worth it if you have made theinvestment in your machine. Manyreviews share the joy of using one ofthe 24 attachments available.

You can also chain stitch off thefabric and it has auto tensionrelease for the threads. Score: 5/5

Threading: ExtraordinAir. Ownersrave about it. I don’t blame them.Juki now has a similar feature ontheir four thread MO-1000, butBabyLock had it first and if thereviews are anything to go by, theystill do it best. Score: 5/5

Tension: Automatic tension. Ihaven’t sewn anything that causedme to need to adjust this but otherowners have struggled with heavyfabrics. Score: 4/5

Speed and Power: 1500 stitches perminute and great piercing power.Score: 5/5

Strength: No problems reported byowners in reviews that I read.Score: 5/5

In the end, I was surprised todiscover that I wanted to buy theSinger Pro 5, although I had setaside a budget to purchase the Pfaff3.0 or 4.0. In lieu of buying 1machine that can do it all, I chose topurchase 2. My sewing room is

now home to a new 4 thread sergerfrom Juki and the Singer Pro 5. TheSinger is used strictly for cover hemwork and 5-thread safety stitching,while the Juki is reserved forworking with knits as a 4 thread.

Despite my personal choice, Iwould caution readers that buyingfrom Amazon instead of a localdealer has it’s own pitfalls. Asmentioned previously, it is hard toplace value on peace of mind and agood warrantee. Working with alocal dealership can ensure thatthere is support available long afteryour purchase. Additionally, thereare usually new owner lessonsoffered with the purchase of a newmachine. Whether you prefershopping online or local, shoppingfor a new serger is a little likeshopping for a car. There aredifferent brands available at avariety of price points. So, if you arein the market for a new five thread,the best advice is to take your time.Shop around and try as manymachines as you can. Five threadoverlock machines are finicky andneed to be a good fit with theirowners. Bonding with them cantake time so try to be patient onceyou get yours home.

The BabyLock Evolution can use upto 8 threads and boasts 87 stitch-es. If you are in the Indianapolisarea and want to try a BabyLock,Jim and Karen Bennett at SelectSewing Service are happy to help.The store is located at 2415 E 65thSt. Indianapolis. 317-255-6332

10

A Visit to the

Quilting Capital of the WorldThe anticipation had beenbuilding for months. A roadtrip to Paducah was in theworks and I was as excitedas a kid waiting forChristmas.

July 10, 2015

The six hour drive from Whites-

town, Indiana flew by as I caught

up with my parents. They visit the

U.S. at least once per year and a

trip to Paducah , KY is a new tradi-

tion for us. With the folks now in

their seventies, it is a tradition that

I will cherish for as long as we can

keep it up. After checking into our

hotel, we head over to Hancock’s of

Paducah, the largest fabric store in

the area. Indeed, at 36,000 square

feet under roof, it is also the largest

retail outlet for cotton goods in the

US. And it is breathtaking to be-

hold. If I were to try to describe the

feeling I get when I walk in, it

would sound something like, “su-

per-awesome-gigantic-enormous-

cotton-wonderland”. We each grab

a buggy and Mum warns me to,

“stick to your budget!”. Budget?

What is that? I am in Wonderland.

COTTONMEET THE KINGS OF

11

Did Alice have a budget? How

much? Giggling, I stroll away and

begin indulging my tactile instincts

by touching every piece of fabric

that catches my eye.

Despite my giggles, experience has

taught me that when visiting the

Kings of Cotton, I need to have

projects in mind, else my bank

account will be weeping. The first of

these, is a request from my

husband, Steve. He wants me to

make covers for the

handles of our

appliances; the sight

of fingerprints drives

him nuts. Project two

is a triple duty wall

hanging. I have long

had it in my mind to

create a wall quilt

that can look great

on one side and

function as my

design board on the other, all while

covering my bookcases. Finally, I

am still collecting fabrics for two

bed quilts. No timeline on the

quilts, but look for tutorials on

projects one and two at

www.suturaclub.com.

Cotton is by far, America’s favorite

natural fiber. Most of us wear it

everyday (think knickers here) and

all sewers know that it is one thing

to view fabrics online and quite

another to see them in person. The

feel of the cotton is a major

“I feel like Alice in deciding factor for

Wonderland whenme. All the fabric

here is first quality,

high thread-count

cotton, ideal for

quilts. It is also

perfect for home

decor, and garments.

Though I am keeping

my projects in mind,

as I explore the vast

array, I see

pretty spring dresses and cool,

comfortable skirts. Lounge wear,

and beach wear, men’s apparel and

stuff for the kids. It’s all here, at a

place that is often relegated

exclusively to quilters. My creativity

takes flight and my mental sketch

pad gets a real workout. Yeah, I am

going to stick to the budget, but who

says that I can’t come back this Fall?

Trip to Paducah anyone?

Finished with my own shopping, I

try to help Mumsie complete her

mission to find yellow fabric with

tiny dots (for the center of flowers -

she’s making a Baltimore Album

Quilt) and orange cotton that would

do well for petals. As I stroll the

aisles, I wonder about the history of

the company. Mr. Hancock

(referred to fondly as Mr. H by staff)

is in store as his son, Justin. A few

questions and a little digging reveal

a incredible story of hard work,

courage and determination. This

family truly epitomizes the

American Dream.

I visit Hancock’sof Paducah. It’slike a trip toMecca, anexperience everysewer shouldhave at least oncein a lifetime”

Despite my best efforts, I was unable capture the whole sales floor in one photo. This about 30% of the store.

12

Today, Hancock’s of Paducahships to customers in 72

countries worldwide. Thestore boasts 36,000 square

feet under roof.

Source: Hancock’s of Paducah website: http://www.hancocks-paducah.com/About-Us

Hancock’s of Paducah is located at 3841 Hinkleville Road, Paducah, KY US Customers: 1.800.845.8723

1952 Dorothy Hancock, a war-bride from the UK, & husband William open Hancock Fab-ric Center at Batesville, Mississippi.

1955 William’s brother, L.D. Hancock, begins selling fabric to dry goods stores under thename Hancock Textiles. His company blossomed into the fabric store chain Hancock Fabrics

1962 Tragedy strikes the family and William Hancock passes away. Dorothy courageous-ly continues to run the shop as a wholesale customer of Hancock Fabrics and raises sons

Rowland and Rodney in the textile business.1969 Rowland Hancock moves to Paducah Kentucky on the advice of his uncle, L.D. and

opens Hancock Fabrics with retail area of 15,000 square feet.

1986 Rowland Hancock moves his business to a new facility with 30,000 square feet,making it the world’s largest retail selection of fabrics. The store changes names to Han-cock’s of Paducah to avoid confusion with Hancock Fabrics and the American Quilt Society

held it’s first show at Paducah.

1990 The AQS Show has grown and as a result Rowland offers a mail order service forattendees who were unable to purchase all that they wanted at the show.

1992 Justin Hancock joined the family business after completing his MBA. Ten years later,Blann Hancock followed suit. Together with their father, Justin and Blann have adaptedHancock's of Paducah into a modern multi-channel business.

Hancock ’s of Paducah Timel ine

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SHOP ‘TIL YOU DROPOnce you’ve explored the sales floor, don’t leave out the warehouse, at the back. Here shoppers will findcardboard boxes that hide a treasure trove of yummy pre-packaged goods; Jelly Rolls and Layer Cakes,

Bali Crackers and more. On the way there, the hand of experience is vividly displayed as one strollsthrough the home decor aisles, Somebody has ensured that all the fabric coordinates well with the

quilting cotton. And one of those Somebodies is on hand to help with your choices.

In 1992, Justin Hancock joined the family

business upon completing a Masters in

Business Administration at the Owen School

at Vanderbilt University. He has played an

instrumental role in helping the company

transition from a retail store to a multi-

channel, internationally known operation.

Like his father, Justin can be found on the

sales floor of Hancock’s of Paducah most

days.

Meet Justin Hancock

14

FALL FLARE

Cotton transitions beautifullyinto Fall, especially when it islayered. Add a cozy long-sleeve top and summer maxidresses can give deliver extrafashion mileage.

Batiks and prints have beenavailable in super wide widths forquite a while, yet are oftenrelegated to the back of a quilt.Garment sewers will find that thisoft overlooked 108” wide fabriccan be transformed into beautifulstyles for the wardrobe. Cottonscan look dressy or casual,depending on how the outfit isaccented with accessories andshoes. So, if you are thinking ofvisiting Paducah, I wouldencourage you to think outsidethe block, these cottons are forevery sewer, not just quilters.

Featured Pattern: Vogue 8808 sewn upof Choice Mottled Vine Ruby Red 108”cotton from Hancock’s of Paducah.

Refugees flee from situations thatmost Americans can’t even begin toimagine, yet no other country doesmore for those in desperate need.So, when a group of newcomers

arrived in Indianapolis, it was all themore touching to bea ble to offer

gifts of handmade quilts fromCanada for new arrivals to USA.

This particular story begins with a Pastorbeing shot for the sake of the Gospel in theCongo, reaches deep into the hearts ofpeople around the world and ends here inIndianapolis with families arriving in cold

weather - barefoot. Thanks to the hardwork and compassion of the ExodusRefugee program, the love of wonderfulpeople from various churches, and thekindness of our cousins to the North,these families now have new homes, newlives and soon, some brand new quilts.

It only took a short phone call to Mom,who quickly alerted her quilting grouplocated in Kelowna, British Columbia,

Canada. The group, known for theirkindness to fellow Canadians amidsttimes of trial, was swift to respond withthe beautiful quilt tops showcased on thefollowing page. This lovely piecework isnow in the hands of volunteers here in theUS who will quilt the tops and get theminto the hands of new families. A trulyinternational effort for a very good cause.

LoveWithoutBorders

18

16

NADINE TULEJA

Sew LIke a ProCourse 1

Nadine was awarded aCertificate of Completionand a straight stitch footfor staying straight oncourse.

Practice makes perfect

Nadine used the samepattern for three tops andfinished the neckline andarmhole using threedifferent methods learnedduring Course 1. The blacktop features a bias turnedneckline and armhole, theblue has a facing and thegreen has a stitch and turnedneckline.Well done Nadineand congratulations!

Student Spotlight

17

LEARN TO SEW FOR THE HOMESpruce up your home with easy projects in time for the Holidays. Get together with fel-low sewers as you learn how to make simple yet elegant styles for the home. In class wewill cover how to make cushions, pillow slips, panel curtains, duvet covers and even learnNatalie Reiners method for making Designer Quillows! Visit us online for details.

© Michael Higginson | Dreamstime.com

19

CarolinaHerrera

Holiday Style

20

There are two ways to becoming a greatdesigner. Start great, and stay great.

Season after season

veteran designer

Carolina Herrera

delivers collections that

are both fresh and

timeless. The Autumn

collection for 2015 is as

stunning in its simple

lines as it is breathtaking

in its beauty. The

influence of water, snow

and ice, even geophysical

elements such as

mountains can be seen.

The silhouettes are gently

curved with simple

necklines drawing the

focus to the face of the

wearer - as it should be.

21

Photographs: Ovidiu Hrubaru / Shutterstock.com

Sequins are back in styleand are swirling likeflowing water on thissimple dress

Rippling fabric isreminiscent of a flowingriver (left), whilesuspended silver discsbring snowflakes to mind.

ELEGANT.TIMELESS.

STYLE.

22

23

It’s in ourIndependence

JeansDenim jeans are quintessentially American. The style westill recognize today was patented by Jacob Davis and LeviStrauss on May 20, 1873.

That most beloved of fabrics was originally developed inNimes, France. The french phase for “from Nimes” is“de Nimes” hence our word, denim. However, it was notuntil the 1950’s that blue jeans became popular as aclothing style and the world market has been growingever since.

According to Cotton Inc., more than 9 out of 10 con-sumers in the USA have purchased denim jeans andindividuals own an average of seven pairs. That is a lotof denim! Conscious of the amount of fabric being used,Cotton Inc launched a recycling program in 2011, “fromBlue to Green”, which allows people to send in theirworn denim, which will then be given a “new life” bybeing converted into environmentally-friendly Ul-traTouchTM Denim Insulation, and contributed tocommunities in need.

In the Spirit of Independence, I was taught “use it up,wear it out, make it do, or do without”. So, before get-ting rid of a pair of jeans, here are some ideas for re-styling them.1) Jean shorts - remember Daisy Duke? Not your style?How about just cutting them off at a longer length andturn up the hem.2) Downsize. Make adult jeans into trousers for littlepeople.3) Try making a skirt using the tutorial found on thefollowing pages.

Photo Credits: 1)© Hughstoneian | Dreamstime.com© Chiyacat | Dreamstime.com

24

© Anatoliy Samara | Dreamstime.com

Upstyle Denim SkirtsGet the k ids involved in th is fun project . F ind o ld pairs of jeans and turn

them into denim skirts for Back to School Style that i s easy on the budget .

25

Skirt

Skirt Conversion

Dress up your wardrobe andrecycle an old pair of jeans byturning them into a trendy skirt!

Customize this skirt to yourliking by adding your favoriteembroidery designs paired withcoordinating colors and fabric.

Read below for these freeproject instructions.

Supplies Needed:

**Fabric for inset - 1/2 yard for amid-thigh or knee length skirt,or 1 yard for an ankle lengthskirt (we used brocade fabric)

**Medium weight cutawaystabilizer

**Temporary spray adhesive

file:///F|/Source/ELProjects/html/PR1514.html (1 of 10)6/9/2009

1

This tutorial i sfrom

emblibrary.comand is used with

permiss ion.

26

Skirt

**Air-erase pen (or othermarking tool)

**Seam ripper

**Tape measure

**Heavy sewing thread (matchcolors to jean seams)

Designs used:

A Pretty in Paisley Design Pack - Sm

These designs are also available in a large design pack:A Pretty in Paisley Design Pack - Lg

To begin, decide what length youwould like the skirt to be. Wemade the length on our skirtjust below the knee (measuredown about 24 to 26 inchesfrom the bottom of the waistband). Take that measurement,add 1 1/2 inches (for seamallowance) and measure andmark down the outer seam oneach leg starting at the bottomof the waist band.


27

Skirt

Draw a horizontal line acrosseach pant leg using the marksyou just made. Then, cut alongthe lines.

Using a seam ripper, open theinner seams on each pant legup to the crotch. Then, open theseams further about 2 inches upfrom the crotch on the front andabout 2 1/2 inches on the back.


28

Skirt

Trim away about 1/2 inch fromthe raw edges on the back sideof the pant legs.

Create paper templates of thedesigns by printing them at fullsize using embroiderysoftware. If you don't haveembroidery software, you cancut a piece of paper the shapeand dimensions of the design tohelp with placement andcentering.

Place the templates on the fabricwhere you would like them.Using an air-erase pen (or othermarking tool) poke a hole in thecenter and mark the fabric. Then,mark the horizontal and verticalaxis points as well.


29

Skirt

Remove the templates and drawlines to connect the axispoints. These lines will be usedfor hooping.

Spray a piece of cutawaystabilizer with adhesive andsmooth the fabric on top. Hoopthe fabric and stabilizer togetherby aligning the marks on thehoop with the lines on the fabric.Attach the hoop to the machineand load the design. Move thehoop so that the needle isdirectly over the center point onthe fabric. Embroider the design.


30

Skirt

When the design has finished,trim away the excess stabilizeron the back of the embroidery.

Repeat the steps above to addany additional designs you'dlike.

Lay the jeans flat with the frontfacing up. Overlap the rightseam over the left seam at thecrotch and pin in place. Usingheavy sewing thread, sew inplace by following the originalseam paths.


31

Skirt

Now, flip the jeans over and laythem flat. On the left side at thecrotch, fold the raw edge of thefabric in 1/2 inch to the wrongside. Then, overlap the left seamover the right seam and pin inplace. Sew in place along theoriginal seam paths.

Lay the jeans flat with the frontside facing up. Cut a piece offabric large enough to cover thetriangular area in between theside seams of the pant legs withat least 2 inches excess/overlap. Insert the fabric underthe side seams and pin in place.


32


Skirt

Sew in place by following theoriginal seam paths on the sideseams.

Turn the jeans inside out. Foldthe raw edges of the back pantlegs in 1/2 inch to the wrong sideand press with an iron.

33

Skirt

Then, turn the jeans right sideout and cut another piece offabric large enough to cover thetriangular area in between thefolded edges of the back pantlegs with at least 2 inches ofexcess/overlap. Insert the fabricunder the folded edges of thepant legs and pin in place. Sewa 1/4 inch seam along the inneredges of the folded jean fabric.Turn the skirt inside out and trimaway the excess inset fabric,leaving about 1/2 inch excess.

To create the bottom hem, foldthe entire bottom edge of theskirt 1/2 inch to the wrong sideand press.


34

Skirt

Fold the bottom edge in another1/2 inch to the wrong side andpress. Pin in place, turn the skirtright side out, and sew a 1/4inch seam along the entirebottom edge of the skirt.

The skirt is now complete!


Would you like to learn how tomake your own custom fit jeans

and denim skirts?Take the Just Jeans Workshop!October 2, 2015 5:30-8:30 pm.

For more details visit thewebsite at

www.suturastyle.com

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Sutura Home StyleDecorating your home is fun, easyand very rewarding. Learn how to

make:

● Cushions and Pillow Slips● Duvet Covers● Panel Curtains● Designer Quillows● Decorated Towels● Simple Organizers

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AUTUMN COLORSThis season look for rich tones sharply contrasted against pale gray, white and black.

Textured stripes and metalics. And sequins are back. Hello ‘80s. Nice to see you again.

When You’re In the MoodChallenging yourself can be agreat motivator, especiallywhen the reward is a custommade outfit.

Mood Fabrics, of ProjectRunway fame, has been asource for designer fabrics fordecades. When the productionseason is over (now) fabricremnants are sold off atreasonable prices. This is a greatopportunity for fashionistas tomake a custom

sewn garment, from the samefabric that prét-â-porterhouses use. I had the chance tosnap up some DKNY knit for aremarkable $10/yard and amthrilled with my new dress.

When shopping for upscalefabrics online, always request aswatch if you are unsure of thecolor or texture. At upwards of$25/yard for designer goods,mistakes can be costly.

37

QuickCoutureA simple shawl can addstyle and warmth oncool Autumn nights.

The loopers of your serger can hold a

variety of fun threads. Try Crown Pearl

Rayon by YLI, or metallic threads as in

the sample above. On heavier fabric,

try a super-light wool in the upper

looper to give your shawl a hand

finished look.

Finish the edges with a rolled hem

You will need:

● 2 yards of 60” wide fabric

● Dressmaker’s Shears

● Matching thread

● Measuring Tape

● Tailors Chalk or a Dressmaker’s Pencil

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise. Draw acutting line from the lower edge of the fabricto the halfway point as shown. Unfold thefabric. Now, fold it in half along the crossgrain.Pin mark the fold. Open the fabric. You willhave a series of pins (dotted line) where thecross fold was and a line where the first foldwas, as shown. Measure your neck at the baseand add 1”. Draw an oval, as shown, the sizeof your measurement. Use a long narrowzigzag stitch, blanket or an overedge stitch tofinish all the raw edges. Trim any threads,press and enjoy!

Fold

Cutting Line

38

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A SEWER’S GUIDE TOINTERFACING

Fashion Fuse (above, left) is a woven interfacing thatworks well for many garment applications. Weft Insertion

Fuse (above, right) is ideal for knits.

Inside MattersF r o m n o n - w o v e n i n t e r f a c i n g t o h a i r c a n v a s , t h e i n n e r c o n s t r u c t i o n o f a ga r m e n t i s w h a t c r e a t e s t h e f i n a l s h a p e . I n t e r f a c i n g i s t o a s e w e r w h a t c l a

y i s t o a p o t t e r . B e a u t i f u l g a r m e n t s s t a r t i n t h e i n s i d e .

Tip:Buy interfacing

in bulk when it ison sale and keep

it on a boltboard.

You’ve bought beautiful fabrics and a lovely

pattern. You’re all set to sew, right?

Maybe not. Expert sewers know that the inside

of the garment counts as much as the outside,

sometimes more. Do you have the right

interfacing? The best way to know is to try a

variety of products with different fabrics and

see what feels best to you.

Here are 22 different types of interfacing that

are used for garment construction. If you would

like a set of samples, they can be ordered from

wawak.com. The photos are taken at 8 X zoom

to make it easier to see the details.

1. Fusible Tricot Black 2. Fusible Sheer Tricot3. Hair Canvas (sew-in) 4. Med. Fusible Gray5. Firm-Up (sew-in) 6. Hair Canvas (fusible)

7. Fashion Fuse 8. Heavy Flannel (sew-in)

9. Light Fusible 10. Sew-In Heavy11. Med. Fusible 12. Tailor Pro Fuse13. Heavy Fuse Black 14. Med. Fuse Black15. Dura-fuse 16. Shirt Fuse

WOVEN & KNIT INTERFACING

Sew In Batting

Silk Organza(Not shown)

SPECIALIZED NON-WOVEN INTERFACING

NON-WOVEN INTERFACING

1 2

3 4

5 6

7 8

9 10

11 12

13 14

15 16

Fusible BattingTear Away StabilizerFusible Web

While the only rule for interfacing is use what works best, a general guide is to use woven and knitinterfacing for woven and knit fabrics. Non-woven interfacing is usually best for crafts and accessories.

The

RightThreads

A BasicGuide toThreads

The number one cause of machinefailure according to veteran

machine tech, Jack Watts, is abuild up of lint in the machine -left there by both the fabric and

the thread.

Choosing the right threadfor your sewing project canbe difficult with so manychoices. When selectingthread for sewing clothing,100% polyester, all-purposethread is the best choice tostart with. As your sewingrepertoire increases,knowledge of other threadfibers and types will becomenecessary. Here is anintroduction to the four

major thread fibers.

Generally, when selectingthreads, match the threadfiber content to that of yourfabric. For example, whensewing natural fibers such assilk, rayon and cotton, usecotton thread.

C��Cotton thread is available in a series of weights,finishes and plies. It is ideally suited to general-purpose sewing on cotton, silk or rayon fabric,quilting, and decorative top stitching. The mainadvantages of using cotton thread are that it willshrink with your garment, and is soft enough not totear natural fibers.

P��Use 100% polyester thread for sewing clothing, light-use home décor projects, and with an OverlockMachine. The strong, smooth fibers will last throughmany years of use and cleaning without shrinking.Lustrous machine embroidery thread is also madeout of polyester and is often preferred for its hightensile strength over Rayon.

R��Rayon thread is best known for the depths of colorand the lustrous sheen that can be

achieved. This thread is best used for decorativeprojects, satin stitching and machine

embroidery. It can also be used for fancy buttonholesor basting in place of silk.

N��The most versatile of all man made thread fibers,nylon can be either transparent and thin or heavyand textured. When made as a single ply thread, itcan be so thin as to appear

invisible. Use transparent nylon for creating invisiblehems. Bulky or “wooly” nylon is a

textured thread that is used with a coverhem stitchmade with a Cover Stitch Machine.

General Sewing Threads

T�� W�� & P��The thread weight system uses metric as a means of measurement. Generally, in the UnitedStates, thread weight is denoted in one or more ways as shown:

1) 50 wt. 2) 50/3 3) Size 50 4) Tex 50

The example above uses 50-weight cotton quilting thread to illustrate how the weight

information may appear on the thread label. Lower numbers indicate heavier thread. Theweight of the thread is determined by the number of meters needed to obtain one gram ofthread. So, the 50 weight thread example means that 50 meters of thread equals 1 gram.

A ply refers to a single strand of fiber, such as cotton, that is spun to create thread.

Threads used for home sewing consist of 1-3 plies. Since it is not mandatory to declare

the thread weight, or the number of plies on the label, shopping for thread can be

confusing. Below is a basic chart to help you with your thread selections.

Project Thread Weight Thread Plies Tex

General Sewing 40 wt 3 30

Heirloom Sewing 50 wt 3 15-23

Serger/Overlock 40 wt 2 27 Polyester/24-30 Nylon

Machine Embroidery 40 wt 2 24

Quilting 50 wt 3 30

Home Décor 20-30 wt 3 30-60

Bobbins 60 wt 2 10

Serger & Overlock Threads

I first discovered the glories of using an Overlock Machine (Serger today) years ago, when I attended HighSchool. I was blessed to attend a school where a Fashion Arts Program was available for Sophomores andSeniors and it was there that I was able to try a serger. I wanted one so badly that I went to every shop that wasselling them to see if I could get one for a good price but had no luck. I waited 5 long years to finally make mypurchase and was so thrilled to finally be able to do the kind of seam finishes that were on good quality Ready-To-Wear apparel.

Serger thread is designed to function well at high speeds and is usually polyester or polyesterwrapped with either a cotton or polyester core. Good quality serger thread is thin, generallyTex 27, smooth and strong. It comes in hundreds of colors. Although the prices are quite reasonable,selecting the first few cones can be quite a daunting prospect.

Fortunately, the Singer Sewing Reference Library (now out of print) has some advice that is as valuable todayas it was then.

"Blending thread colors allows stitches to blend easily with fabric. It is not always necessary to use a threadcolor that matches the fabric, and you may even blend several shades in the same seam. A supply of sergerthreads should include colors that blend easily, such as ivory, gray or rose. Threads in the primary colors ofred, yellow and blue do not blend with many colors of fabric. If you have only one spool of matching thread,use it in the needle at the seam line, and use colors that blend for the other threads." (loopers)

Over the years I have found that, in addition to rose, lilac and blue are wonderful colors to have on hand. Bothshades blend nicely with a variety of hues. Using the Thread Blending Principle as a guide, my collection ofoverlock threads has grown very slowly indeed, there are still only 16 colors in my studio. The guiding principlebehind thread blending is to use the pastel shade of the three primary colors (magenta, cyan and yellow) withthe neutrals, (black and white) and the neutral pastel, gray.

To blend threads, use a good quality sewing thread in the needle. Remember, this is the seam so it needs to bestitched with the same care and thread quality as sewing on a regular sewing machine. On the loopers, chooseone or more colors that blend in (but obviously won't match) with your fabric. If you have a print, pick thedominant colors in the pattern and then select thread that appears the least obvious against the fabric(blending).

Below is a reference chart of the threads I use most commonly when teaching and in the studio. I have addedred and deep beige as they blend well with colors that I sew with very often.

Color Chart Number Blends well with: Fibers ContentWhite 651 Very light colors/white Nylon & PolyesterBlack 653 Dark colors Nylon & PolyesterGray 680 Blue, purple, green Nylon & PolyesterIvory 678 Beige, taupe, yellow Nylon & PolyesterRose 603 Pink, lilac, coral, peach Nylon & PolyesterBlue 659 Gray, blues, lavender Nylon & Polyester

Deep Beige 684 Khaki, Dk taupe, Lt, Brown PolyesterRed 612 Red, wine, fuchsia, Polyester

Novelty Threads

1) Hand wind embroidery floss onto a empty thread

spool. Use it to thread the upper looper of your serger.

Increase the stitch length to the maximum your

machine will allow and decrease the tension. Using a

three thread overlock stitch, create a beautiful edging

stitch for garments and home décor items.

2) Try Bobbin Work. Wind or hand wind heavy rayon

or metallic onto the bobbin of your sewing machine.

Reduce the bobbin tension and select a light, open

decorative stitch or use a straight stitch. Sew with the

right side down. The decorative stitching is formed

with the bobbin thread.

3) Create perfect rolled hems to edge necklines,

armholes and the bottom edges of athletic wear by

using elastic. Although not technically a thread, it is a

great notion to have on hand for cretaing a fine,

professional finish. Use the rolled hem setting on a

serger or a narrow satin stitch on a sewing machine to

create this effect. Simply place the elastic cording along

the edge of the garment. As you sew, ensure that the

stitching encases the elastic, stretching it stlightly as

you stitch. Tops, bralettes and more will sit smoothly on

the body and move with you!

Playing with thread can be inspiring and a lot of fun! Thread painting, bobbin work, decorativestitches and beautiful seam edging are all possible with novelty threads. Here are a few ideas:

Properly!

Natalie Dawn Reiners is a sewing

instructor , pattern designer and au-

thor of the fifteen volume Sutura

Style series, “Sew Like a Pro”

The balmy days of summer

are over and it is hard to

stay inside and sew when

Mother Nature is calling. The

trees are putting on a

spectacular display and I am

giving Thanks early this year

for so many blessings.

“Strength and dignity are

her clothing, And she smiles

at the future.”

Proverbs 31:25 NAS

Quick tips for getting the job done right.

Copyright © 2014 Dawn Abbey Inc.

8401 Moller RoadIndianapolis, IN, 46268www.dawnabbey.com

All rights reserved.

Take a deep breath. It is going to be okay. Here are a fewsteps to take to get your project back on track.

1) Remove all threads and thoroughly clean and oil yourmachine. The number one cause of machine failure is dustand dirt trapped in small hard to reach areas.

2) Re-thread your machine completely with 4 differentcolours of thread. This will allow you to make tensionadjustments even if you are frustrated. Match your threadcolours to the dial colours on your machine.

3) Use new needles and a fresh blade.

4) Adjust 1 tension dial at at time. Start at about “3” on thetension and increase or decrease from there in small, quarterturn increments.

5) Finally, if all else fails, bring your machine in to a qualifiedtechnician. The timing mechanism may be off or it may neednew parts.

When I came toAmerica I wasteased about how Iused & pronouncedthe word “Properly”

The Silk RoadA Journey of Fashion and Fabric

Dawn Abbey Inc8401 Moller Road

Box 681183Indianapolis, IN

46268Tel: (317) 559-4271

[email protected]

Sew Your Style

Take a journey along the world’s most legendary trade route through

the luxurious fabrics that were made and traded for centuries.

Discover traditional and modern sewing methods for creating

beautiful garments in today’s marketplace.

Documents

Sutura Style Fall 2015