THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY AND THE ENVIRONMENT

ALAINA KORNFELD

Cotton & the Environment The Solution: Organic CottonCotton accounts for nearly half of the fibers used in clothing in today’s society. 75% of cotton production comes from China, the United States, India, Pakistan, Uxbekistan, and West Africa. Only 2.4% of the world’s crop land is used by cotton farming, but 24% of the sales of insecticide and 11% of the pesticide sales go towards cotton production. Many of the various pesticides used by cotton farmers are harmful to not only the enironment, but can also be hazardous to the workers. 1

Organic cotton is one of the great alternatives to conventionally grown cotton in terms of eliminating harm to the environment. Since organic cotton does not use toxic chemical pesticides and fertilizers, the soil remains healthy which in turns decreases the amount of water needed in production. 7

While organic cotton products are generally more expensive than conventional cotton, the price is essentially paying for clean water and air as well as fair wages for those who work with organic cotton. 8

A cotton worker in Uzbekistan has a scarf around mouth to avoid inhaling the harmful chemicals. 6 Many baby clothes at Gap use organic cotton which is softer and safer on sensitive skin. 12

– 20,000 liters of water is needed to produce one t-shirt 1

– 12 pounds of chemicals are used per acre of cotton 4

– cotton takes 6-8 months to grow– 60°-90° is the average temperature needed for cotton to grow 5

COUNTRY INFORMATION

INDIA:Cotton uses 5% of the land but, 54% of annual pesticide use 2

UZBEKISTAN:2nd largest exporter of cotton– water from the Aral Sea is re-routed to irrigate cotton fields– now the Aral sea is desolate and dry– toxic dust from the chemical remains in the Aral Sea harm thousands of people each year 3

WHY IT’S BAD

– Cotton requires huge amounts of water from farming to production– Multiple chemicals are used on the plants which can result in a harmed environment 1

– Cotton seeds are genetically modified with chemicals– Soil used for cotton farming becomes dry and void of organic nutrients– Run-off chemicals can contaminate drinking water, other crops, and the air 4

BY THE NUMBERS HOW IT’S BETTER

– Organic cotton seeds are untreated– Farming of organic coton uses crop rotation to ensure the soil remains healthy– Because of healthier soil, less water is needed 10

– Natural fertilizers and composts instead of chemicals– Removing weeds and harvesting is done by hand– Farmers of organic cotton use “trap crops” to lure pests away 7

– Safe peroxide is sued to whited the coton– Natural dyes and pigments are used 10

– Organic cotton often has a softer hand– It is more absorbant than conventionally grown cotton– Organic cotton is hypoalergenic 11

LEADERS IN ORGANIC COTTON

COUNTRIES:TurkeySyriaTanzaniaBrazilIndiaUnited StatesAustralia

RETAILERS:NikeH&MPumaTargetIkea 7

OTHER ALTERNATIVES

BAMBOO - fast growing and doesn’t require irrigation; also has a luxurious hand and drapeFLAX - doesn’t need as much water and as many pesticides as cotton but has the same feel and lookTENCEL - made from eucalyptus tree pulp, tencel does not need as much space as cotton fieldsHEMP - much like bamboo, hemp does not need as much water as cotton, but hemp is illegal to grow in the United States 9

Cashmere & the Environment The Solution: Cashlama & MoreCashmere is one of the most long-lasting and good quality fabrics in the world. Well made cashmere will not pill, is very warm, and can be hand-washed which helps the environment.14 However, cashmere can be very expensive —sometimes six times the price of wool. Despite not using much water, cashmere does have a negative effect on the environment. Cashmere goats, mainly in Mongolia and China, are overpopulated and eating the green land away until all that is left is dirt.15

While there are ways to get cashmere that is not harming the environment, such as in Mongolia and China, it is harder to find, and can be more costly. Cashmere can be produced in other countries, but the cold climate in Mongolia and China are what make the best cashmere – the colder the winter, the more cashmere to keep the goats warm, the more cashmere to sell and make into garments.17

Since finding cashmere that isn’t made in Asia is hard to determine, Maria Hogh Heilmann has created cashlama, an imitation cashmere in terms of warmth, but is made from Bolivian llamas, for her brand, Aiayu.20

A herd of cashmere goats in the Gobi Desert in Mongolia.18 Dr. Walid Daoud developed photocatalysts for cashmere to self clean.24

A woman holds a cashmere goat cub at a farm in Mongolia.19

Aiayu “Eba” sweater. 23

– 1 goat makes 3-4 ounces of cashmere per year– 1 sweater takes 12-16 ounces of cahsmere16

(It would take 1 goat 4 years to make 1 sweater!)– Cashmere goats are hungry creatures: they eat 10% of their body weight each day 14

– 70% of cashmere comes from China– Dust storms harm 300,000 people annually in China – the dust can even travel over the Pacific to the United States 15

CHINA AND MONGOLIA

CHINA:Mythic Grasslands: – Was one of the largest prairies – Now it is running out of grassDeserts: – Expand 400 square miles each year 15

MONGOLIA:Goats doubled as demand for cashmere rose – With no grass, dust storms are common – Desertification: huge threat in Mongolia; affects 30% of pasture land, pasture land makes up 80% of Mongolia 16

THE HINDRANCE

– Because of desertification, water supply is going down in dry areas 17

– With no grass, goats are hungry, when hungry, the cashmere produced is more coarse– Cashmere goat birthrates are down, and life span is shorter– Goat hooves can tear up the already dry land, causing more dust to pollute the air– Unlike cotton, cashmere is a limited resource15

STATISTICS

AIAYU

First collection launched in 2006Won “Ethical brand of the Year” Award in 2009, and again in 2012Over 200 stores worldwide as of 2013– Brand’s mission is to create beautiful and durable pieces out of sustainable materials – Aiayu means “soul” in Bolivian tongue– Large variety of products – Average sweater = ~$200 – Average pillow = ~$100 21CASHMERE COATING

Hong Kong UniversityCashmere coating:– With 24 hours of sun exposure, cashmere self cleans– Since washing/dry cleaning can damage the fibers, the coating will help the life span of cashmere products– Made of anatasetitanium dioxide, oxidants are released to break down dust/dirt– Sun creates electric currents that pull the dust/dirt away from the cashmere’s surface– Added bonus: the coating is affordable 22

TIPS FOR BUYING CASHMERE

If you have to have cashmere, remember this:1. Don’t pick the softest knit – Soft means looser knits, causes more pilling2. Choose 2 ply or 4 ply – Strong yarns make the garment last longer3. Wash and dry clean cashmere very little – The process will wear down the fibers 14

Synthetic Dyes & the Environment The Solution: Natural DyesSynthetic dyes were first used in 1856. After having used only natural dyes for thousands of years (such as cochineal, cutch, indigo, weld, and madder),26 synthetic dyes were widely embraced for their bright colors and being inexpensive. However, synthetic dyes, such as anililine (azo dyes), are extremely dangerous, flammable, and harmful to the environment. 25

Natural dyes have been in use for thousands of years, and while they may not be as easily available as synthetic dyes, they do not harm the environment to the same extent of synthetic dyes. Natural dyes can be made from a variety of plants, minerals, bugs, animals and foods.26 In ancient times, Tyrian purple was specially made for royalty from the ink of sea snails. Just because synthetic dyes are easier and cheaper, does not mean that they are better in quality compared to natural dyes. 27

Chinese river turned red from dye pollution in the Zhejiang Province.29

Indigo31 and weld32 plants.Neon t-shirts dyed with synthetic dyes.30

Even though synthetic dyes are bad for the environment, they are still used widely today for the following reasons:– Bright colors that natural dyes can’t make– Can be produced quickly– Are abundant in supply– More reliable in terms of standard color– Greater variety and array of colors like neons27

Synthetic dyes definition: “Organic dye compounds originally derived from coal-tar derivatives; presently produced by synthesis from benzene and its derivatives.” 28

– Acid dyes– Azoic dyes– Chrome dyes– Direct dyes– Acetate dyes– Reactive dyes– Sulphur dyes– Vat dyes27

WHAT HAPPENS?

1. Fabric is dyed using synthetic dyes and tons of water2. Leftover water isn’t treated, the water (which still has 20% of the dye in it) is dumped into sewers and rivers3. The water is filled with the chemical dyes and harms the eco systems, killing species and hurting the land and water4. Some areas are dyed, such as the red river below26

BY THE NUMBERS

Average t-shirt:– 16-20 liters of water– Only 80% of dye is retained in the shirt– 40,000-50,000 tons of dye water is discharged by the Global Textile Industry– There are over 10,000 dyes– Over 90% of dyed items use synthetic dyes29

TYPES OF SYNTHETIC DYES

PERKS OF SYNTHETIC DYES

OTHER OPTIONS

– No dye! Natural fibers are beautiful as they are in shades of tan and off-white– Organic methods to treat the synthetic dye water before releasing into the environment25

– Stricter laws regarding synthetic dye water being dumbed into the rivers/fields26

– DIY or home dyeing garments using natural sources - both eco-friendly and fun!– Printed clothing34

BENEFITS OF NATURAL DYEING

5 MAIN NATURAL DYE SOURCES

– Color does not fade over time like synthetic dye can– Resources do not harm those who do the dyeing, while chemical dyes can be very harmful to the dye workers– When the natural dye water is returned to the environment, it does not harm the land and water supply like synthetic dyes– Natural dyed fabrics are not harsh on skin and will not cause rashes like some synthetic dyes– Natural dye sources are renewable27

– Indigo: produces blue, from a flower– Cutch: produces tan and brown, from a tree– Weld: produces yellow, from a plant– Madder: produces red, from a herb root– Cochineal: produces red, from a bug26

HOWEVER...

Natural dyes aren’t all good:– Natural dyes can be very expensive to produce– Dyeing with natural sources can take a long time, whereas synthetic dyes can take hours– Synthetic dye colors are brighter than natural dyes and have a larger range of shades– They may not be fully organically produced34

Dresses dyed with cabbage, a natural dye.33

Water Usage & the Environment The Solution: Wash Less!Water is used in every step of the apparel and textile production process — from the irrigation of natural fiber crops to the dying of the materials. With less that 1% of the Earth’s fresh water being accessible to humans, water will only rise in demand in the years to come. With the apparel and textile industry using so much water, change needs to start happening.35

Levi’s, in honor of Earth Day 2015, put a quiz up on their website to show people how much or how little water they used in washing their jeans. The questions asked how often a pair of jeans stays in your closet, how often that pair of jeans is worn in one month, how many times it is worn before being washed, if the jeans are washed in cold or warm water, and whether they are dried in a dryer, hung to dry, or if they are ironed.

Levi’s ad to promote less water use.39

A pair of Levi’s WATER<LESS jeans.38

My results from Levi’s “Are you Ready to Come Clean?” quiz.

The life-cycle of a pair of Levi’s jeans:– ~3800 liters of water used to make the jeans– 33.4 kg of carbon dioxide produced in the process– If the jeans are worn 10 times before washing, it would reduce the water usage and climate change by 77%.37

WATER<LESS96% of the water used is eliminatedThe 4% used is recycled — they were the first company to create water recycling standards. Since 2011: – Saved 1 billion liters of water – Recycled 30 million liters of water

Levi’s promotes only washing jeans when you absolutely need to. The average American washes their jeans after two wears.36

BY THE NUMBERS

2.5% of the Earth’s water is fresh water0.3% of the Earth’s fresh water is humanly accessible– That’s only 0.01% of all the water on Earth! Of that 0.01%:8% goes to domestic use – 40% of that water is used in laundering22% is used in industries70% is used in irrigation

17-20% of all water pollution is from the textile industry14.4% of retailers’ water use is just in manufacturing35

LEVI’S

LIFECYCLE OF JEANS

THE QUIZ RESULTS

THE BEST AND WORST

TAKE THE PLEDGE(Fifteen of my friends and family — a mix of men and women, adults and teenagers — took the Levi’s quiz to get these results)

For ONE year:

Those who SAVE, they average:– 173 liters of water saved– 40 hours of energy savedThese results are 48% better than the average person.

Those who USE, they average:– 582 liters of water used– 23 hours of energy usedThese results are 39% more than the average person.

BEST: Meghan O’Meara (saves: 255 liters of water, 14 hours of energy, is 74% better than the average person)

WORST: Michelle Carlini (uses: 1216 liters of water, 40 hours of energy, is 107% worse than the average person)

I am pledging to wash my jeans less in order to save more water. Instead of washing them every 2 wears, I will wash them every 3-4 wears (or whenever they become dirty).

MY RESULTS

I SAVE: – 118 liters of water– 7 hours of energyI am 34% better than the average person.

Retail Bags & the Environment The Solution: Reusable BagsPaper or plastic? The debate as to which is better has been going on for some time now as to which is better for the environment. Based on the resources used, the amount of energy used, how easily they are recyclable, and their usability, both paper and plastic bags have been tested and questioned to see which comes out on top.

After looking at multiple different retailer’s shopping bags and assessing their content of recycled materials, it’s clear to see just how much retailers actually recycle. Since American’s shop so much, instead of using the shopping bags retailers offer, bring your own reusable bag to help save the environment!

PAPER VS PLASTIC

HISTORY

PAPER– Paper bags are made from trees, a readily available and renewable resource– Paper bags hold more items on average (~14 compared to ~5 in a plastic bag)– 20% of paper bags that were used in the US in 2000 were recycled43

– In 2013, 63.5% of paper bags used in the United States were recycled44

– Each paper bag costs about 4 cents– Recycling paper bags is much easier than recycling plastic bags– 40% more energy used to make paper bags than plastic bags– Creates 80% more waste during production than plastic bags – Takes 1 month to decompose43

PLASTIC– Made from petroleum, a non-renewable resource– Plastic bags only hold about 5 items– Only 1% of plastic bags are recycled in the US– A plastic bag costs about one penny43

– Can take 5-10 years to fully decompose– ~1 million animals die annually from ingesting plastic bags– More than 10% of ocean debris on US coasts is plastic bags– 12 million barrels of oil is needed to make 100 billion plastic bags– The oil to make 14 bags can drive a car one mile– 91% less energy is used to recycle plastic bags than paper bags42

– Plastic bags are harder to recycle than paper and the result is a worse quality bag45

PLASTIC:– Plastic bags were introduced in grocery stores in the United States in 1977.– Since their debut, 80% of bags used in grocery and retail stores are plastic.– The average person uses anywhere between 600-1200 plastic bags every year.43

PAPER:– The paper bag machine was made in 1852 by Francis Wolle.46

– Americans consume over 10 million paper bags each year.– Paper bags have long been praised since the production reduces greenhouse gases from being emitted in to the atmosphere. – Paper bags are the perfect compost-able container. 47

THE RESULTS

5 REASONS FOR REUSABLE BAGS

Each number is representative of the percentage of recycled materials are used in each retailer’s shopping bags.GAP: 15%DSW: 100%BANANA REPUBLIC: 40%VICTORIA’S SECRET: 0% J.CREW: 80%J.CREW FACTORY: 100%TOMMY HILFIGER: 15%

1. Reusable bags aren’t throw away as often as disposable plastic and paper bags2. Some retailers offer discounts for bringing your own bags3. Reusable bags are durable and hold many items unlike paper and plastic bags that can break easily4. Carrying a reusable bag with you is easy and there are many cute options5. Less germs on your own bags than the ones in stores49

RETAIL IMPACT

Working at Gap for two years has shown me what the retail world really does in terms of recycling.

– On average, the Gap in Oak park receives 200 boxes of shipment each week– All of these boxes are recycled– Gap’s shopping bags are made of 15% recycled material– Any used bags or plastic is thrown away– Marketing materials such as posters and signage is saved to be reused or recycled– Gap Inc. is working to improve product sustainability, eliminate excessive waste, reduce water usage, and reduce greenhouse gas emissions

Takeaway: Gap is doing it’s part to help the environment in many big ways, but there are still smaller ways to continue helping!50

MY PLAN: I plan to ask my manager about plastic bag recycling in order to even better im-prove our store’s recycling

J.Crew47 and DSW48 shopping bags are 100% recycled material.

By getting a recycling bin for plastic bags at the Gap in Oak Park we can eliminate a lot of plastic waste.51

A chart for paper, plastic, and reusable bags.48

Old v. New Clothes & the Environment The Solution: Recycled FashionAmericans are becoming more and more engrossed with the material lifestyle which results in garbage and over filled landfills. More and more clothing items and textiles are being thrown out, leading them to landfills as well. Not only does textile and clothing recycling help the environment through less greenhouse gases being released into the atmosphere and dyes from clothes not harming the soil near landfills, but it can help other people, and even reduce our taxes.52

Not only have eco-friendly fabrics and fashion been a huge trend in the past few years, but recycling, rewearing, and remaking clothing has been popular. From my own experience with a recycled fashion show, to popular “recycled” fashion trends, being environmentally friendly has never looked so good!

The Affordable Fahsion Challenge 2009 – my freshman year of high school. (I am in the center in the navy gown. My other design is to the left.)60– Multiple local governments are implementing

textile recycling curb pickup

– In New York City, 250 apartment buildings have put textile/clothing recycling bins in the lobbies53

– San Francisco has a goal of ZERO WASTE by 2020 and promotes textile recycling with bins all around the city52

Recycled textiles are either

– Resold, it they are in good condition or

– Repurposed for rags, insulation, or building materials

Cotton can be composted

Zippers, buttons, and hardware is taken off of the old clothing and can be reused

90% of the textiles and clothing that is recycled can be reused or repurposed54

THE FACTS

THE AVERAGE AMERICAN:

– Throws out 65-70 pounds of clothing each year

– That’s equal to 190 t-shirts

– Americans throw out 14.3 million tons of textile waste each year

– 6% of all municipal waste

– 126 million cubic yards of landfill space52

– 90% of thrown out textiles can be recycled54

– $100/ton fee on landfill dumping

– Taxpayers would save $1.1 billion each year from reducing textile waste53

TEXTILE RECYCLING

WHAT HAPPENS

UPCYCLING BRANDS

– Kallio (kids clothing brand from Brooklyn creating dresses and outerwear from old men’s dress shirts)– Sword + Plough– Reformation– TRMTAB– Looptworks– Seamly.co– Reclaimed59

AFFORDABLE FASHION CHALLENGE

Illinois Sustainable Living and Wellness Living Expo 2009– Expo with sustainability challenges and ideas, featuring a fashion show with recycled fashions

FASHION SHOW:

– Create a garment from recycled textiles, clothing, and accessories through sewing and embellishment– The made garment has to have cost less than $10– Thrifting and reusing are encouraged57

MY GARMENTS:

– A navy prom dress made from an old bridesmaids dress found at Goodwill for $2 featuring gathering, a strapless neckline (previously a halter neckline), and embellished with rhinestones. Won the top prize of $100.

– A strapless polka dot dress made from a $5 size 14 dress found at Goodwill, altered to a size 0, hemmed, and converted to a strapless dress. A yellow painted vinyl belt was added as an accessory for the dress.

UPCYCLING

Upcycling is taking an old item and making it into something even better than before!

– Uses pre-consumer and post-consumer waste– Reusing materials that would have ended up in the landfills– A new trend as consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the harms of fast fashion58

A Kallio dress for little girls. 61

San Francisco’s textile recycling bins.56

Recycling clothing, instead of throwing it out, helps the environment.55

WORKS CITED

1 “Cotton Farming.” WWF. Web. 08 Feb. 2015. <http://wwf.panda.org/about_our_earth/about_freshwater/fresh-water_problems/thirsty_crops/cotton/>.2 “The Cost of Cotton: Dirty Cotton.” People and Planet. Web. 08 Feb. 2015. <http://peopleandplanet.org/redress-fashion/briefing/dirty>.3 Cotton - Environmental Disaster & Lethal Pesticides. Environmental Justice Foundation, Online.4 LePicier, Samantha, and Corinna Cincotta. “Choosing Health: Organic Cotton versus Conventional Cotton - Living Green Magazine.” Living Green Magazine. 16 Apr. 2013. Web. 08 Feb. 2015. <http://livinggreenmag.com/2013/04/16/lifestyle-choices/choosing-health-organic-cotton-versus-conventional-cotton/>.5 Rietz, Benjamin. “Dethroning King Cotton: Environmental Impacts Of Producing Cotton Versus Hemp.” Web. 8 Feb. 2015. <http://www.csbsju.edu/Documents/Environmental%20Studies/curriculum/395/rietz.pdf>.6 Much of Uzbekistan’s Cotton Is Picked by Hand. BBC. Web. 8 Feb. 2015. <http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-29855341>.7 Wallander, Mattias. “Organic Cotton: Threading Its Way Into Our Closets.” The Huffington Post. 14 Feb. 2014. Web. 08 Feb. 2015. <http://www.huffingtonpost.com/mattias-wallander/organic-cotton-threading-_b_4784430.html>.8 Everman, Victoria. “How Eco Is Organic Cotton? The Facts on 7 Questions.” Gaiam Life. Web. 08 Feb. 2015. <http://life.gaiam.com/article/how-eco-organic-cotton-facts-7-questions>.9 Carpenter, Susan. “Beyond Cotton: Which Alternative Fabrics Are Eco-friendly?” Los Angeles Times. 19 June 2011. Web. 08 Feb. 2015. <http://articles.latimes.com/2011/jun/19/image/la-ig-alternative-natural-tex-tiles-20110619>.10 “Why Harmony Art Organic Cotton?” Harmony Art Organic Design. Web. 08 Feb. 2015. <http://www.har-monyart.com/organic-textiles/OrganicVSConventional.html>.11 “Why Organic Cotton vs. Non-Organic?” Ecofriend Online. Web. 08 Feb. 2015. <http://www.ecofriendonline.com/Article_Links/Cotton_ConventionalVersusOrganic.php>.12 Organic Plant Bodysuit. Gap. Web. 8 Feb. 2015. <http://www.gap.com/browse/product.do?vid=1&pid=415227012>.13 Organic Statement Footed One-piece. Gap. Web. 8 Feb. 2015. <http://www.gap.com/browse/product.do?vid=1&pid=415193002>.14 Lepisto, Christine. “Cashmere: Sustainable Fiber or Environmental Disaster?” TreeHugger. 23 Dec. 2006. Web. 28 Feb. 2015. <http://www.treehugger.com/sustainable-fashion/cashmere-sustainable-fiber-or-environmental-di-saster.html>.15 Osnos, Evan. “Your Cheap Sweater’s Real Cost.” Chicago Tribune. 16 Dec. 2006. Web. 28 Feb. 2015. <http://www.chicagotribune.com/chi-china-cashmere-htmlstory-htmlstory.html>.16 Hurd, Jack. “Is Cashmere Sustainable?” Conservancy Talk. The Nature Conservancy, 30 Apr. 2013. Web. 28 Feb. 2015. <http://blog.nature.org/conservancy/2013/04/30/is-cashmere-sustainable/>.17 “Globalization of the Cashmere Industry in Mongolia.” American.edu. TED Case Studies.Web. 04 Mar. 2015. <http://www1.american.edu/TED/mongolia.htm>.18 Browning, Jonathan. Mongolia Main_176.jpg. Digital image. Jonathan Browning Photojounalist. Web. 28 Feb. 2015. <http://jon-browning.photoshelter.com/image/I0000BvP6hxm558A>.19 Brown, Frederic J. Meng Lounu holds a cashmere goat cub at a farm in Ordos on April 20 , 2011, in Inner Mongolia, northwest China. Digital image. Global Post. Web. 28 Feb. 2015. <http://www.globalpost.com/dis-patch/news/science/wildlife-news/130916/goat-week>.

20 Sims, Josh. “Eco-friendly Fabrics.” Financial Times. 16 Apr. 2010. Web. 28 Feb. 2015. <http://www.ft.com/intl/cms/s/2/17d3158e-48de-11df-8af4-00144feab49a.html#axzz3TNWYD4jP>.21 “About Us.” Aiayu. Web. 28 Feb. 2015. <http://www.aiayu.com/about-us/#philosophy>.22 Zimmer, Lori. “Self-Cleaning Cashmere Uses Sunlight to Save Money, Environment.” Ecouterre. 14 Aug. 2014. Web. 28 Feb. 2015. <http://www.ecouterre.com/self-cleaning-cashmere-uses-sunlight-to-save-money-environ-ment/>.23 Elba. Digital image. Aiayu. Web. 28 Feb. 2015. <http://www.aiayu.com/product/621/62121503>.24 Walid Daoud from City University of Hong Kong’s School of Energy and Environment. Digital image. Fast Company. Web. 28 Feb. 2015. <http://www.fastcoexist.com/3034745/this-self-cleaning-cashmere-never-needs-to-go-to-the-dry-cleaner>.25 Brit. “Synthetic Dyes: A Look at Environmental & Human Risks.” Green Cotton. 18 June 2008. Web. 30 Mar. 2015. <https://greencotton.wordpress.com/2008/06/18/synthetic-dyes-a-look-at-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly/>.26 “Dyes.” Ethical Fashion Forum. Web. 30 Mar. 2015. <http://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/the-issues/dyes>.27 “Synthetic Dyes.” Dyes-pigments. Web. 30 Mar. 2015. <http://www.dyes-pigments.com/synthetic-dyes.html>.28 “Synthetic Dyes Definition.” Drugs.com. Web. 30 Mar. 2015. <http://www.drugs.com/dict/synthetic-dyes.html>.29 Residents look out at a river that turned red overnight in Cangnan county in east China’s Zhejiang province on July 24. Digital image. The Washington Post. 29 July 2014. Web. 30 Mar. 2015. <http://www.washingtonpost.com/news/morning-mix/wp/2014/07/29/why-did-this-river-in-china-turn-red/>.30 Neon t-shirts. Digital image. Thermo Scientific. 28 June 2013. Web. 30 Mar. 2015. <http://chromblog.thermosci-entific.com/blog/bid/98179/GC-MS-Analysis-of-Azo-Dyes-in-Leather-and-Textiles>.31 Still, Steven. Baptisia Australis. Digital image. Greenhouse Canada. 4 Mar. 2010. Web. 30 Mar. 2015. <http://www.greenhousecanada.com/crops/flowers/perennial-plant-of-the-year-blue-false-indigo-2078>.32 Dyeing with Weld. Digital image. Antique Rugs of the Future Project. Web. 30 Mar. 2015. <http://www.azerbai-janrugs.com/arfp-natural_dyes_weld_reseda_luteola.htm>.33 Park, Hee W. Cabbage dyed dresses. Digital image. Global Possibilities. 27 June 2012. Web. 30 Mar. 2015. <http://www.globalpossibilities.org/dahea-suns-cabbage-dyed-dresses-change-color-to-indicate-rains-ph/>.34 “Dyes - Synthetic and “natural” Part 2.” O ECOTEXTILES. 9 Aug. 2009. Web. 30 Mar. 2015. <https://oecotex-tiles.wordpress.com/tag/natural-dyes/>.35 Raviso, Pamela. “How Can We Stop Water from Becoming a Fashion Victim?” The Guardian. 7 Mar. 2012. Web. 29 Apr. 2015. <http%3A%2F%2Fwww.theguardian.com%2Fsustainable-business%2Fwater-scarcity-fash-ion-industry>.36 “Made of Progress.” Levi’s. Web. 29 Apr. 2015. <http://us.levi.com/shop/index.jsp?categoryId=20996696#envi-roment>.37 “Lifecycle Assessment.” Levi Strauss. Web. 29 Apr. 2015. <http://www.levistrauss.com/sustainability/planet/lifecycle-assessment/>.38 Super Skinny Jeans. Levi’s. Web. 29 Apr. 2015. <http://us.levi.com/product/index.jsp?productId=53248916&&cp=3146849.34142756.60832686>.39 Saving Water Is Easy. Levi’s. Web. 29 Apr. 2015. <http://us.levi.com/shop/index.jsp?categoryId=20996696#envi-roment>.

WORKS CITED

40 Erdos, Joseph. “Why You Should Use A Reusable Grocery Bag.” The Huffington Post. TheHuffingtonPost.com, 9 Apr. 2012. Web. 29 Apr. 2015. <http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/04/06/reusable-grocery-bags_n_1409065.html>.41 “Paper or Plastic? Just the Facts.” ABC News. ABC News Network, 07 Jan. 2006. Web. 29 Apr. 2015. <http://abcnews.go.com/Technology/story?id=97476>.42 “Paper Bag Facts.” Renewable Bag Council. Web. 29 Apr. 2015. <http://www.renewablebag.org/paper-bag-facts>.43 Dunn, Collin. “Paper Or Plastic? A Look At The Facts, Myths And Numbers Of Shopping Bags.” The Huffing-ton Post. TheHuffingtonPost.com, 16 July 2008. Web. 29 Apr. 2015. <http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2008/07/08/paper-or-plastic-a-look-a_n_111547.html>.44 “Paper Bag History - Invention of the Paper Bag.” The Great Idea Finder. Web. 29 Apr. 2015. <http://www.ide-afinder.com/history/inventions/paperbag.htm>.45 “Facts about Paper.” Inteplast Group. Web. 29 Apr. 2015. <http://www.inteplast.us/ibs/InteGreen/facts.html>.46 Changing Impacts. C&EN. Web. 29 Apr. 2015. <http://cen.acs.org/articles/92/i37/Breaking-Plastic-Bag-Habit.html>.47 100% Recycled Shopping Bags. J.Crew. Web. 02 May 2015. <https://www.jcrew.com/flatpages/social_res_april3_3.jsp>.48 DSW Shopping Bag. Best Handbags Mini. Web. 02 May 2015. <http://besthandbagsmini.atspace.eu/dsw-bags.html>.49 Taylor, Kerry K. “50 Reasons to Go Green with Reusable Shopping Bags.” Squawkfox. Web. 02 May 2015. <http://www.squawkfox.com/2008/07/16/50-reasons-to-go-green-with-reusable-shopping-bags/>.50 “Operating Context and Strategy.” Gap Inc. Web. 02 May 2015. <http://www.gapinc.com/content/csr/html/en-vironment/operating-context-and-strategy.html>.51 The GAP Store on West 57th Street Had a Plastic Bag Recycling Bin on Display, as Is Required by State Law. DNA Info. Web. 02 May 2015. <http://www.dnainfo.com/new-york/20100422/manhattan/happy-earth-day-busi-nesses-ignore-plastic-bag-recycling-law>.52 Brones, Anna. “How Many Clothes Do You Throw Away Every Year?” Care2. 29 June 2014. Web. 02 May 2015. <http://www.care2.com/causes/how-many-clothes-do-you-throw-away-every-year.html>.53 Straut, Catherine. “Spring Cleaning Alert: We Know Where Old Clothes Go to Die-and the Numbers Will Shock You.” ELLE. 6 June 2013. Web. 02 May 2015. <http://www.elle.com/fashion/shopping/news/a14882/spring-cleaning-old-clothes-recycle/>.54 “What Happens to Those Old Clothes You Throw Away?” EcoGoodz. 22 Aug. 2014. Web. 02 May 2015. <http://ecogoodz.com/blog/what-happens-to-those-old-clothes-you-throw-away/>.55 Textile Bin. SF Environment. Web. 02 May 2015. <http://www.sfenvironment.org/textiles>.56 Clothes Recycling. ELLE. Web. 02 May 2015. <http://www.elle.com/fashion/shopping/news/a14882/spring-cleaning-old-clothes-recycle/>.57 Steinbacher, Michele. “ISU Student Organizes Affordable Fashion Show.” Pantagraph.com. 18 Apr. 2009. Web. 02 May 2015. <http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pantagraph.com%2Fnews%2Fisu-student-organizes-affordable-fash-ion-show%2Farticle_1c34b450-a9ab-563f-9f56-be71089aa5ab.html>.58 “Upcycling: The New Wave of Sustainable Fashion.” Triple Pundit. 08 May 2014. Web. 02 May 2015. <http://www.triplepundit.com/special/sustainable-fashion-2014/upcycling-new-wave-sustainable-fashion/>.59 Vermeer, Danielle. “7 Upcycling Companies That Are Transforming the Fashion Industry.” Danielle L Ver-

meer. 08 Sept. 2014. Web. 02 May 2015. <http://daniellelvermeer.com/blog/upcycled-fashion-companies>.60 Renewable Fashion Challenge 2009. Renewable Fashion Challenge Facebook. Web. 02 May 2015. <https://www.facebook.com/RenewableFashionChallenge/photos/pb.184222891673737.-2207520000.1430813135./184223758340317/?type=3&theater>.61 Dress - Long Sleeved Shirt Dress. Kallio. Web. 02 May 2015. <http://kallionyc.com/products/dress-long-sleeve-collared-tunic>.