Strategy for Perfect Jewellery Designing

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    Neeru Jain :

    Asstt. Professor of Jewellery designing

    Sub:Jewellery Designing:

    Title : Strategy for perfect Jewellery Designing

    While designing a piece of jewellery for an individual, so many things should be kept

    in mind. Firstly the person from whom you are designing, secondly shapes, styles, and

    colors for that particular type of design, including all requirements and limitations that

    are necessary to make the piece comfortable and functional. If these aspects are kept

    in mind, your client will have a piece of jewellery that will fit an individuals

    personality, way of life, and be most becoming to her his appearance. In this way

    client will accrue jewellery that can become an integral part of their wardrobe and

    remain cherished possession for many years and perhaps many generations.

    The first and foremost thing to be remembered is :

    Preferences of design : First important point is that the person for whom we aredesigning is a male or female. Knowing this would make the work easier and a

    designer can design the piece accordingly.

    We must also concern on age factor i.e., kid, youth and aged while designing. Other

    then this we should focus on the variety of jewellery to be constructed i.e. ring,

    earring, pendant, brooch, necklace etc? This is the most important point which

    needs to be remembered during designing any jewellery because lacking here might

    cause a complete mess in further designing.

    If we have decided this then numerous variations are there to be taken care of, i.e. itshould be a real or costume jewellery.

    Theme & Occasion: after deciding the type of jewellery a designer shouldidentify costumers interest in design. Some time costumer orders all designs on a

    particular theme for example love, music, ocean etc.

    So we must design on those themes by keeping the latest trend in concern.

    Along with this the occasion on which costumer is going to wear it matters allot ,it

    may be Engagement, Wedding , Birthday, Anniversary, valentine day, Deepawali,

    Ied, Christmas, official gathering etc

    Size of Jewellery Piece : Some jewellery pieces needed a certain size to wear i.e.Ring, Bangles, Bracelets, Necklaces, etc. Ring Size may be 5 us to 13 us (15.7 to

    22.2 m.m.). Use a ring that fits you to determine your ring size. Place your ring over

    the nearest size circle. The inner edge of the ring should align with the outer edge ofthe circle then if your ring appears to fit between two sizes, buy the larger size.

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    Women's Standard Necklace Sizes can be 16" Choker length , 17-18" Will reach the

    collarbone and bead string - 30" Below the chest and for male's Standard Chain Sizes

    can be 18" Base of the neck -for smaller neck sizes , 20" to collarbone -The most

    common length for the average size man, 22"to 24" A few inches below the

    collarbone . Similar to ring and necklace bracelet must design according a particular

    size. The Standard Bracelet Sizes is 7" Average woman's wrist , 8" Averageman's wrist or woman with larger wrist & 9" For man with larger wrist . So keep in

    mind size factor too. The design would very accordingly.

    Metal: It is important to sketch out the design before it is converted in real Jewellerypiece so designer must show metal rendering in their design. What is appropriated

    metal i.e. gold ,silver, platinum, alloy, brass or other substance.

    Jewellery is made out of almost every material known While high-quality and

    aesthetic pieces are made with precious metals, less and costly costume jewellery is

    made from less-valuable materials l and is manufactured.

    If customer wants to buy gold jewellery , the first thing to keep in mind about is the

    word karat. The karat is the unit used to represent the proportion of gold in the piece

    of jewelry. Pure gold is set at 24 karats but there is no 24-karat gold jewelry because

    pure gold is too pliable to be fashioned into any form of jewelry. The diamond

    Jewellery is popular in 18-k (75% gold), 16-k (66.67% gold), 14-k (about 58% gold),

    and 12-k (50% gold).

    And purity of Silver jewellery is 92.5

    One particular metal which has gained in popularity quite greatly in the past ten years

    or so is that of platinum. Platinum is used to make all different types of jewelry items

    Learn about how and why this process occurs and how different metals create

    different shades of color.

    c Gold jewellery

    Metal decoration : Metal decorations enhance the beauty of jewellery. So afterdecide metal designer should workout on metal decoration i.e. enameling, Filigree or

    textures or finish of metal. Whether it can be Matt finish, Florentine or satin finish so

    many type of finishes are there can be used. Hammering textures are in recent trend.

    Polishing and plating of jewellery is important to decide before manufacturing.

    Whether jewellery piece would look elegant in rhodium or antique look.

    If vacuum electroplating is conducted on nickel or brass metal-like color on the

    surface thereof, such as golden yellow color to appear like gold, or light gray toappear like platinum, etc..

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    By way of the above steps, the declaration can have the effect as a metal inlayed with

    jewelry, and the quality and value of the production are greatly enhanced.

    Filigree Enameling

    Choice of Gem stones :Jewelry is a wonderful accessory which can be designed in a wide range of metals &

    gemstones. These gem stones can be used with different sizes, colors, and varieties.

    Diamond is the most beautiful Gem materials that compose your jewellery design .

    Diamonds;

    When using diamond & other color gem Stones in jewellery , there are four aspects

    that must be considered. These are the cut, the color, the carat, and the clarity of the

    diamond. Of these four aspects, the most important is the carat of the diamond. As

    the weight and size increased the price become very higher. The facets of the gem

    stone should be balanced and this is called symmetry. And finally, the cuts should be

    made through specific lines to avoid chipping off the surface. Gemstones should be

    clear . No inclusion over it. Otherwise it will less their price. Jewellery last for longyears so try to use good quality of Gem stones whether it can be precious or semi-

    precious.

    However, looks can be deceiving, but if you are not wise enough to choose a good

    quality of gem stones, you might end up with poor quality of gem stones.

    Gem stones either depend on customer choice or the look of jewellery. Some time

    they choose it or like to wear it according their planetary position.

    colour stones

    Setting of Gem stones :

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    It is very important after choosing gemstones to workout that what type of settings

    would use.

    Sons are secured into their settings by first cutting a seat in which the stone rests and

    then covering the stone from above with some additional metal. This traps the stone

    so that it cannot move down or up. There are several options on how to secure a stone

    into a mounting. The most common settings are Prong Setting, Grain Set other stylesare Rub Over, Pave, Channel, Illusion, Star Setting, Invisible Setting, Suspension

    Setting and Countersunk.

    The Prong setting is the most frequently seen method of setting gems and Diamonds,

    there are a variety of other methods also used to set gems in precious metals. So Stone

    setting is an important feature of jewellery designing and making.

    Prong Setting Bezel Setting

    Link, clip & clasp:When design comes to jewelry making, it will be easy to manufacture if we show

    proper links, clips and clasp in our design. Designer should use them as an integral

    part of the jewelry making? Many designers have done just that to great effect. Check

    out jewelry designs whether links, clips or clasps have been used or not. As clips or

    clasps are essential jewelry components so it should properly placed. If a designer

    design chain to make it faxable therefore, draw the correct no. of joints or loops within certain distance. A jewelry piece such as a bracelet, necklace, earrings, or other

    ornamental item required a proper locking system . These locks may contain some

    designs over it. If you want to fix a brooch to a dress the best way is to fasten it with a

    pin-needle that can be fixed or pinned on a clasp. There are different kinds of

    variants to this version to keep the broochsneedle from coming out . If you want to

    fix an earring to the lobe of an ear, A threaded hinge is used as a stop. U type clip

    is the most simple way to wear an earring with the ears pierced and it is best use both

    for aesthetics reasons and for a good balance. Some most comely used closing is

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    Jewelry is unlike clothing or appliances. The value of jewelry does not depreciate and

    therefore, So that your jewellery piece should durable and it remain same for a

    long ..longer time.. a Proper planning before designing and making any jewellery

    piece will make your work easy and it will save your time and cost too.