BRAZILIANPARAÍSOTROPICALSexy bikinis and samba aside, Brazil is home to almost5,000 miles of shoreline, the biggest tropical rainforestin the world and a captivating national energy

story and photos by Jamie Elvidge

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42 S E A R A Y L I V I NG • W I N T E R 2 0 0 9

My travels in the largest, most fantasy-laden country in LatinAmerica began more than a decade ago with the predictableholiday in Rio. I mean, c’mon, I’d been hearing about howthe girl from Ipanema goes walking my entire life.

I did end up tan, but otherwise, that two-week vacation wasn’t much like the sultry bossa nova song. I atetoo much meat at the churrascarias, got ripped off buying“jewels” and was more than a little intimidated by all thesexy Brazilian women who strut in their string bikiniswith a kind of “I own it” confidence not borne toAmerican girls.

Thankfully, over the ensuing years I’ve discovered thereis so much more to Brazil than Rio. This country is not asingular paradise, but rather a vast tropical Garden of manyEdens. There is bliss to be found in the cooling mist thatwafts from Iguzzu Falls, as well as the heat that radiatesfrom Carnaval. Heaven can be a swim off a boat nearParati, or a quiet walk through the toucan-dotted jungle.Every time I go to Brazil there is something new and won-drous to discover.

On my most recent trip, a more intimate, profoundside was revealed when I joined the Cardoso family for anafternoon aboard their Sundancer on the Atlanticcoast near Porto Belo, in Brazil’s southern state of SantaCatarina. It’s no easy feat finding Sea Ray owners in acountry with a percent import tax, but for some peo-ple, only the best will do. “It was always my dream to buya Sea Ray,” says Obson Cardoso. “I knew the reputationfor comfort and fine workmanship.” He bought his

Sundancer used just last year, and—rather amazingly—paid , U.S. for it. “There aren’t a lot of Sea Raysin Brazil,” says Anderson Linzmeyer of Fibrafort Boats,the Cardoso’s local yacht broker and sole importer ofSea Ray products in Brazil. “And you can understand why.Because of the expense, it’s a true luxury for people here toown such a fine boat.”

This country is avast tropical Gardenof many Edens.

Brazil drips with vibrant colors and tropical delights. Coconuts and bananas are an easy treat, or in Florianopolis, you can stop at the local dock and have Chico fillet the catch he just brought in while the cats work cleanup.

“It was alwaysmy dream to buy a Sea Ray.”

Aside from the price tag, Obson’s Sundancer, Ocean Blue, feelsjust like our mid-size Sundancers back home: Spacious, comfortable and totally stable, even in open water. Obson’s wife,Vivien, says the Sea Ray is where the family prefers to spend week-ends, and she feels a special kind of peace onboard. “There are nodistractions here,” she says, “even if one of us is in a bad mood, atleast we’re together as a family.” Daughters Veronica () and Sarah() say that, just like typical Sea Ray kids in the States, they meet alot of new friends on their boat trips. The big difference with themarine crowd here in Brazil is that meeting up to enjoy a favoritecove or swimming beach almost always involves a journey. Brazilianpleasure boaters make up a scattered community simply becausethere are very few marinas. In fact, slips are so scarce, most boats aredry docked during the week, then plopped into the water for theday. So, when the Cardosos and their friends do go somewhere todrop anchor, they want to spend the whole day enjoying the sun,water and, of course, a traditional barbecue.

Next to the bitsy bikini, Brazil is famous for barbecue, but notthe saucy kind of stuff we eat in North America. Grilling meat is anart form here, and the backbone of the country’s gastronomic pleasures. Churrascarias—any restaurants turning meats over anopen flame—are on every corner. And in the south of Brazil, thefish and crustaceans are celestial, too. The best thing I’ve eaten inyears turns out to be a pot of Moqueca de camarão, a stew of shrimpand vegetables seasoned with azeite-de-dendê, a local palm oil,which brings rich flavor to everything it touches (as well as a crazybright orange glow). This is served with Brazil’s traditional rice andblack beans and a unique fish sauce thickened with yucca flour.

Florianopolis is a famous island in Santa Catarina State, mostnoted for its World Title Championship-worthy surf. It’s a prime

place to live, far from the traffic, pollution and crime-breeding favelas that inflict cities like São Paulo and Rio. “We like to headdown to the island for overnighters,” says Obson. “We have friendsdown there and many good times. I’m dreaming about buying abigger Sundancer so we can have more room and make the tripmore easily in bad weather.”

Obson is the region’s director of operations for Sascar Systems,which builds a LoJack-like device that’s all too necessary in acountry where bulletproof glass is the option du jour. Sascar alsomakes a similar device for marine use, so owners can keep tabs ontheir prized vessels. The south of Brazil might not be like Riowhen it comes to crime statistics, but you still have to keep youreye on the jewels.

The Cardoso family of Santa Catarina is veryproud of their 360 Sundancer and spends mostweekends onboard taking in the splendors of

southern Brazil. Because of limited marinespace and security issues, most boats are dry

docked during the week.

Like most Brazilians, the Cardosos always look cool and neverabout to be taken. It’s that same confidence factor I so envied adecade ago on Ipanema Beach. Vivien might not be wearing a bikinitoday, but she still carries herself with that easy assurance and grace.Even young Sarah, draped over the cockpit bench like a long, languidcat, looks ready to take on the world.

I think it’s a prerequisite for all Brazilians, this aura of self-certainty. But what I’ve learned over the years about this country, Ialso found true about the Cardosos: Behind the hip half-grin andnonchalant posture, the suave Latin-dude demeanor and the designersunglasses, this Brazilian Sea Ray family is just like yours and mine.They want the safest, most comfortable and reliable boat they canafford and as much time on the water as possible.

Like a samba rhythm, Brazil gets into your chest and forces youfeel its presence, not just see it for its superficial costumery. Beyondthe bikinis, the toucans, the tropical flowers and the coconutdrinks there is a deep underlying energy that supports confidenceand frees people to see what’s beautiful around themselves, and alsoabout themselves.

Brazil is a kind of hammock for the soul…tied between two palmtrees on a beach where the jungle meets the sea. SRL

Brazil is a kind of hammock for the soul…

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