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Star Wars Epic Yarns

D-I-Y Needle-Felted Jawa By Jack and Holman Wang

This D-I-Y guide gives you a step-by-step guide to creating an awesome Star Wars figure: a Jawa! It presents a simplified version of some of the techniques used to make the felt figures in the board book series Star Wars Epic Yarns.

Needle-felting involves the use of very sharp, barbed needles, and this activity is not recommended for children under the age of 9. Children trying needle-felting for the first time should do so under the supervision of an adult . And even if you’re 9 or older, be careful! It’s easy to poke yourself!

Good luck, and may the felt be with you!

EPIC YARNS

DIY NEEDLE FELTED JAWA

this diy guide gives you a step-by-step guide to creating an awesome star wars figure: a jawa! you'll learn

some of the techniques used to make the felt figures in the board book series star wars epic yarns.

Needle-felting involves the use of very sharp, barbed needles, and this activity is not recommended for children under the age of 9. Children trying needle-felting for the first time should do so under the supervision of an adult. And even if you’re 9 or older, be careful! It’s easy to poke yourself!

by Jack & Holman Wang

Star Wars Epic Yarns ©& ™ 2015 LUCASFILM LTD. ©Jack and Holman Wangwww.jACkAnDhoLMAn.CoM/STAr-wArS-epIC-yArnS

May the felt be with you!

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Here are the supplies you need: → a piece of foam for felting on → wool roving (e.g. Corriedale) in black & yellow → medium brown wool pre-felt (soft felt sheet) → dark brown craft felt (harder felt sheet made of wool or polyester) → medium and light gauge felting needles → pipe cleaners → white school glue → scissors

You will need three pipe cleaners, each about 6.5” long. Bend one to form the legs and feet as shown. Attach a second pipe cleaner at the center point of the hips, which will form the torso, neck and head. The distance from the feet to the top of the head should be about 5.5”, so clip off any excess pipe cleaner. Finally, join the last pipe cleaner to form the shoulders and arms. It should be joined at about the mid-point between the hips and the top of the head (i.e. the end of the vertical pipe cleaner).

Wool roving usually comes in widths that are larger than we need to create the Jawa. Fortunately, wool roving separates very easily lengthwise, so simply pull apart the black roving to create a length of roving which is not too thick. The roving should be about a foot in length so it is easy to handle.

Wrap the length of roving around the middle portion of the pipe cleaner armature to create the torso. The wrapping does not need to be extremely tight, but it also shouldn’t be so loose that there isn’t any shape.Take a medium gauge felting needle and begin stabbing at the wool repeatedly in order to entangle the fibers (pushing right through the figure). This makes the wool firmer and firmer. Add wool and continue to felt as needed.

Star Wars Epic Yarns ©& ™ 2015 LUCASFILM LTD. ©Jack and Holman Wangwww.jACkAnDhoLMAn.CoM/STAr-wArS-epIC-yArnS

Here are the supplies you need:

a piece of foam for felting on wool roving (e.g. Corriedale) in black & yellow medium brown wool pre-felt (soft felt sheet) dark brown craft felt (harder felt sheet made

of wool or polyester) medium and light gauge felting needles pipe cleaners white school glue scissors

You will need three pipe cleaners, each about 6.5” long. Bend one to form the legs and feet as shown. Attach a second pipe cleaner at the center point of the hips, which will form the torso, neck and head. The distance from the feet to the top of the head should be about 5.5”, so clip off any excess pipe cleaner. Finally, join the last pipe cleaner to form the shoulders and arms. It should be joined at about the mid-point between the hips and the top of the head (i.e. the end of the vertical pipe cleaner).

Wool roving usually comes in widths that are larger than we need to create the Jawa. Fortunately, wool roving separates very easily lengthwise, so simply pull apart the black roving to create a length of roving which is not too thick. The roving should be about a foot in length so it is easy to handle.

Wrap the length of roving around the middle portion of the pipe cleaner armature to create the torso. The wrapping does not need to be extremely tight, but it also shouldn’t be so loose that there isn’t any shape.

Take a medium gauge felting needle and being stabbing at the wool repeatedly in order to entangle the fibers (pushing right through the figure). This makes the wool firmer and firmer. Add wool and continue to felt as needed.

Here are the supplies you need:

a piece of foam for felting on wool roving (e.g. Corriedale) in black & yellow medium brown wool pre-felt (soft felt sheet) dark brown craft felt (harder felt sheet made

of wool or polyester) medium and light gauge felting needles pipe cleaners white school glue scissors

You will need three pipe cleaners, each about 6.5” long. Bend one to form the legs and feet as shown. Attach a second pipe cleaner at the center point of the hips, which will form the torso, neck and head. The distance from the feet to the top of the head should be about 5.5”, so clip off any excess pipe cleaner. Finally, join the last pipe cleaner to form the shoulders and arms. It should be joined at about the mid-point between the hips and the top of the head (i.e. the end of the vertical pipe cleaner).

Wool roving usually comes in widths that are larger than we need to create the Jawa. Fortunately, wool roving separates very easily lengthwise, so simply pull apart the black roving to create a length of roving which is not too thick. The roving should be about a foot in length so it is easy to handle.

Wrap the length of roving around the middle portion of the pipe cleaner armature to create the torso. The wrapping does not need to be extremely tight, but it also shouldn’t be so loose that there isn’t any shape.

Take a medium gauge felting needle and being stabbing at the wool repeatedly in order to entangle the fibers (pushing right through the figure). This makes the wool firmer and firmer. Add wool and continue to felt as needed.

Here are the supplies you need:

a piece of foam for felting on wool roving (e.g. Corriedale) in black & yellow medium brown wool pre-felt (soft felt sheet) dark brown craft felt (harder felt sheet made

of wool or polyester) medium and light gauge felting needles pipe cleaners white school glue scissors

You will need three pipe cleaners, each about 6.5” long. Bend one to form the legs and feet as shown. Attach a second pipe cleaner at the center point of the hips, which will form the torso, neck and head. The distance from the feet to the top of the head should be about 5.5”, so clip off any excess pipe cleaner. Finally, join the last pipe cleaner to form the shoulders and arms. It should be joined at about the mid-point between the hips and the top of the head (i.e. the end of the vertical pipe cleaner).

Wool roving usually comes in widths that are larger than we need to create the Jawa. Fortunately, wool roving separates very easily lengthwise, so simply pull apart the black roving to create a length of roving which is not too thick. The roving should be about a foot in length so it is easy to handle.

Wrap the length of roving around the middle portion of the pipe cleaner armature to create the torso. The wrapping does not need to be extremely tight, but it also shouldn’t be so loose that there isn’t any shape.

Take a medium gauge felting needle and being stabbing at the wool repeatedly in order to entangle the fibers (pushing right through the figure). This makes the wool firmer and firmer. Add wool and continue to felt as needed.

Here are the supplies you need:

a piece of foam for felting on wool roving (e.g. Corriedale) in black & yellow medium brown wool pre-felt (soft felt sheet) dark brown craft felt (harder felt sheet made

of wool or polyester) medium and light gauge felting needles pipe cleaners white school glue scissors

You will need three pipe cleaners, each about 6.5” long. Bend one to form the legs and feet as shown. Attach a second pipe cleaner at the center point of the hips, which will form the torso, neck and head. The distance from the feet to the top of the head should be about 5.5”, so clip off any excess pipe cleaner. Finally, join the last pipe cleaner to form the shoulders and arms. It should be joined at about the mid-point between the hips and the top of the head (i.e. the end of the vertical pipe cleaner).

Wool roving usually comes in widths that are larger than we need to create the Jawa. Fortunately, wool roving separates very easily lengthwise, so simply pull apart the black roving to create a length of roving which is not too thick. The roving should be about a foot in length so it is easy to handle.

Wrap the length of roving around the middle portion of the pipe cleaner armature to create the torso. The wrapping does not need to be extremely tight, but it also shouldn’t be so loose that there isn’t any shape.

Take a medium gauge felting needle and being stabbing at the wool repeatedly in order to entangle the fibers (pushing right through the figure). This makes the wool firmer and firmer. Add wool and continue to felt as needed.

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Stab from all directions. This means turning the figure over to ensure that all sides are needled.Once the torso is beginning to feel fairly firm, wrap black roving around the pipe cleaners forming the arms and legs.

Continue to stab the wool repeatedly (hundreds of times!) in order the harden the wool that forms the arms and legs. Stabbing the wool forming the arms and legs to the wool of the torso will join the separate pieces of wool together.If there are “holes” or “divots” in the wool, simply add wool and fill in the area. If there are areas where wool sticks out, just stab it more to work it down.

Once the needle-felting for the torso, arms and legs is complete, your figure should look something like this picture. Since the Jawa is going to be clothed, you don’t need to worry about the outer surface of the black roving being perfectly smooth. But if you want a challenge, take your fine felting needle and smooth out the surface of the figure by stabbing more parallel to the surface of the wool.

Wind a small amount of black roving tightly to form the neck. Then wrap a larger amount of black roving to form the head.Continue to stab the wool forming the head and neck until the wool becomes fairly firm. Heads are not perfectly round, so you don’t just want to needle a perfect sphere for the head! Add a small ball of wool at the front for a chin, and another ball of wool to create rounding for the back of the head.

Stab from all directions. This means turning the figure over to ensure that all sides are needled.

Once the torso is beginning to feel fairly firm, wrap black roving around the pipe cleaners forming the arms and legs.

Continue to stab the wool repeatedly (hundreds of times!) in order the harden the wool that forms the arms and legs. Stabbing the wool forming the arms and legs to the wool of the torso will join the separate pieces of wool together.

If there are “holes” or “divots” in the wool, simply add wool and fill in the area. If there are areas where wool sticks out, just stab it more to work it down.

Once the needle-felting for the torso, arms and legs is complete, your figure should look something like this picture.

Since the Jawa is going to be clothed, you don’t need to worry about the outer surface of the black roving being perfectly smooth. But if you want a challenge, take your fine felting needle and smooth out the surface of the figure by stabbing more parallel to the surface of the wool.

Wind a small amount of black roving tightly to form the neck. Then wrap a larger amount of black roving to form the head.

Continue to stab the wool forming the head and neck until the wool becomes fairly firm. Heads are not perfectly round, so you don’t just want to needle a perfect sphere for the head! Add a small ball of wool at the front for a chin, and another ball of wool to create rounding for the back of the head.

Stab from all directions. This means turning the figure over to ensure that all sides are needled.

Once the torso is beginning to feel fairly firm, wrap black roving around the pipe cleaners forming the arms and legs.

Continue to stab the wool repeatedly (hundreds of times!) in order the harden the wool that forms the arms and legs. Stabbing the wool forming the arms and legs to the wool of the torso will join the separate pieces of wool together.

If there are “holes” or “divots” in the wool, simply add wool and fill in the area. If there are areas where wool sticks out, just stab it more to work it down.

Once the needle-felting for the torso, arms and legs is complete, your figure should look something like this picture.

Since the Jawa is going to be clothed, you don’t need to worry about the outer surface of the black roving being perfectly smooth. But if you want a challenge, take your fine felting needle and smooth out the surface of the figure by stabbing more parallel to the surface of the wool.

Wind a small amount of black roving tightly to form the neck. Then wrap a larger amount of black roving to form the head.

Continue to stab the wool forming the head and neck until the wool becomes fairly firm. Heads are not perfectly round, so you don’t just want to needle a perfect sphere for the head! Add a small ball of wool at the front for a chin, and another ball of wool to create rounding for the back of the head.

Stab from all directions. This means turning the figure over to ensure that all sides are needled.

Once the torso is beginning to feel fairly firm, wrap black roving around the pipe cleaners forming the arms and legs.

Continue to stab the wool repeatedly (hundreds of times!) in order the harden the wool that forms the arms and legs. Stabbing the wool forming the arms and legs to the wool of the torso will join the separate pieces of wool together.

If there are “holes” or “divots” in the wool, simply add wool and fill in the area. If there are areas where wool sticks out, just stab it more to work it down.

Once the needle-felting for the torso, arms and legs is complete, your figure should look something like this picture.

Since the Jawa is going to be clothed, you don’t need to worry about the outer surface of the black roving being perfectly smooth. But if you want a challenge, take your fine felting needle and smooth out the surface of the figure by stabbing more parallel to the surface of the wool.

Wind a small amount of black roving tightly to form the neck. Then wrap a larger amount of black roving to form the head.

Continue to stab the wool forming the head and neck until the wool becomes fairly firm. Heads are not perfectly round, so you don’t just want to needle a perfect sphere for the head! Add a small ball of wool at the front for a chin, and another ball of wool to create rounding for the back of the head.

Stab from all directions. This means turning the figure over to ensure that all sides are needled.

Once the torso is beginning to feel fairly firm, wrap black roving around the pipe cleaners forming the arms and legs.

Continue to stab the wool repeatedly (hundreds of times!) in order the harden the wool that forms the arms and legs. Stabbing the wool forming the arms and legs to the wool of the torso will join the separate pieces of wool together.

If there are “holes” or “divots” in the wool, simply add wool and fill in the area. If there are areas where wool sticks out, just stab it more to work it down.

Once the needle-felting for the torso, arms and legs is complete, your figure should look something like this picture.

Since the Jawa is going to be clothed, you don’t need to worry about the outer surface of the black roving being perfectly smooth. But if you want a challenge, take your fine felting needle and smooth out the surface of the figure by stabbing more parallel to the surface of the wool.

Wind a small amount of black roving tightly to form the neck. Then wrap a larger amount of black roving to form the head.

Continue to stab the wool forming the head and neck until the wool becomes fairly firm. Heads are not perfectly round, so you don’t just want to needle a perfect sphere for the head! Add a small ball of wool at the front for a chin, and another ball of wool to create rounding for the back of the head.

Star Wars Epic Yarns ©& ™ 2015 LUCASFILM LTD. ©Jack and Holman Wangwww.jACkAnDhoLMAn.CoM/STAr-wArS-epIC-yArnS

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Once the head had been properly needled, it should be smaller than when it started and look something like this. Notice the chin? Make sure you add that. Also notice that the general head shape is taller than it is wide.

Add the eyes by needling yellow roving onto the head. Take a small length of yellow roving and secure one end by needling it into the head at the correct spot. Then wind the roving around the needle, and finally push the yellow roving down into the face. This helps to create the circular shape of the eyes. Continue to needle as necessary to secure the eyes.

Now we’re ready to dress the Jawa!The first piece of pre-felt for the robe should reach from the neck to just above the feet, and should be long enough to safely wrap around the entire figure. Remember, you must use soft wool pre-felt that can be needled, not craft felt.1” from one end of the pre-felt, cut a small hole into the pre-felt so that the left arm of the figure can slip through the hole.

Wrap the short end of the pre-felt around to the back of the figure, and needle the end of the pre-felt into the back of the figure to secure the robe.Trim the pre-felt if you have too much at the back and it begins to wrap to the front again.

Once the head had been properly needled, it should be smaller than when it started and look something like this.

Notice the chin? Make sure you add that. Also notice that the general head shape is taller than it is wide.

Add the eyes by needling yellow roving onto the head. Take a small length of yellow roving and secure one end by needling it into the head at the correct spot. Then wind the roving around the needle, and finally push the yellow roving down into the face. This helps to create the circular shape of the eyes. Continue to needle as necessary to secure the eyes.

Now we’re ready to dress the Jawa!

The first piece of pre-felt for the robe should reach from the neck to just above the feet, and should be long enough to safely wrap around the entire figure. Remember, you must use soft wool pre-felt that can be needled, not craft felt.

1” from one end of the pre-felt, cut a small hole into the pre-felt so that the left arm of the figure can slip through the hole.

Wrap the short end of the pre-felt around to the back of the figure, and needle the end of the pre-felt into the back of the figure to secure the robe.

Trim the pre-felt if you have too much at the back and it begins to wrap to the front again.

Once the head had been properly needled, it should be smaller than when it started and look something like this.

Notice the chin? Make sure you add that. Also notice that the general head shape is taller than it is wide.

Add the eyes by needling yellow roving onto the head. Take a small length of yellow roving and secure one end by needling it into the head at the correct spot. Then wind the roving around the needle, and finally push the yellow roving down into the face. This helps to create the circular shape of the eyes. Continue to needle as necessary to secure the eyes.

Now we’re ready to dress the Jawa!

The first piece of pre-felt for the robe should reach from the neck to just above the feet, and should be long enough to safely wrap around the entire figure. Remember, you must use soft wool pre-felt that can be needled, not craft felt.

1” from one end of the pre-felt, cut a small hole into the pre-felt so that the left arm of the figure can slip through the hole.

Wrap the short end of the pre-felt around to the back of the figure, and needle the end of the pre-felt into the back of the figure to secure the robe.

Trim the pre-felt if you have too much at the back and it begins to wrap to the front again.

Once the head had been properly needled, it should be smaller than when it started and look something like this.

Notice the chin? Make sure you add that. Also notice that the general head shape is taller than it is wide.

Add the eyes by needling yellow roving onto the head. Take a small length of yellow roving and secure one end by needling it into the head at the correct spot. Then wind the roving around the needle, and finally push the yellow roving down into the face. This helps to create the circular shape of the eyes. Continue to needle as necessary to secure the eyes.

Now we’re ready to dress the Jawa!

The first piece of pre-felt for the robe should reach from the neck to just above the feet, and should be long enough to safely wrap around the entire figure. Remember, you must use soft wool pre-felt that can be needled, not craft felt.

1” from one end of the pre-felt, cut a small hole into the pre-felt so that the left arm of the figure can slip through the hole.

Wrap the short end of the pre-felt around to the back of the figure, and needle the end of the pre-felt into the back of the figure to secure the robe.

Trim the pre-felt if you have too much at the back and it begins to wrap to the front again.

Once the head had been properly needled, it should be smaller than when it started and look something like this.

Notice the chin? Make sure you add that. Also notice that the general head shape is taller than it is wide.

Add the eyes by needling yellow roving onto the head. Take a small length of yellow roving and secure one end by needling it into the head at the correct spot. Then wind the roving around the needle, and finally push the yellow roving down into the face. This helps to create the circular shape of the eyes. Continue to needle as necessary to secure the eyes.

Now we’re ready to dress the Jawa!

The first piece of pre-felt for the robe should reach from the neck to just above the feet, and should be long enough to safely wrap around the entire figure. Remember, you must use soft wool pre-felt that can be needled, not craft felt.

1” from one end of the pre-felt, cut a small hole into the pre-felt so that the left arm of the figure can slip through the hole.

Wrap the short end of the pre-felt around to the back of the figure, and needle the end of the pre-felt into the back of the figure to secure the robe.

Trim the pre-felt if you have too much at the back and it begins to wrap to the front again.

Star Wars Epic Yarns ©& ™ 2015 LUCASFILM LTD. ©Jack and Holman Wangwww.jACkAnDhoLMAn.CoM/STAr-wArS-epIC-yArnS

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Turn the figure so the front is facing you. Needle the pre-felt around the front neckline to secure it.Pre-felt does not drape easily on its own, but you can create creases and pleats by needling vertical lines down the front of the figure. Work from the figure’s left to the figure’s right. Once one vertical line is nee-dled, you can push and bunch the felt slightly before needling the next line to create deeper pleats.

Once the pre-felt around the neckline is needled down, cut a small portion (about ½”) of the remaining felt from the top of the pre-felt piece so that the pre-felt can wrap under the right arm of the figure and around to the back.

Trim any excess felt and then needle the loose end of the pre-felt to the back of the figure.

For the arms of the robe, cut rectangular pieces of pre-felt which run from the top of the shoulder to just above the end of the arm. The piece should be long enough to wrap around the arm.

Turn the figure so the front is facing you. Needle the pre-felt around the front neckline to secure it.

Pre-felt does not drape easily on its own, but you can create creases and pleats by needling vertical lines down the front of the figure. Work from the figure’s left to the figure’s right. Once one vertical line is needled, you can push and bunch the felt slightly before needling the next line to create deeper pleats.

Once the pre-felt around the neckline is needled down, cut a small portion (about ½”) of the remaining felt from the top of the pre-felt piece so that the pre-felt can wrap under the right arm of the figure and around to the back.

Trim any access felt and then needle the loose end of the pre-felt to the back of the figure.

For the arms of the robe, cut rectangular pieces of pre-felt which run from the top of the shoulder to just above the end of the arm. The piece should be long enough to wrap around the arm.

Turn the figure so the front is facing you. Needle the pre-felt around the front neckline to secure it.

Pre-felt does not drape easily on its own, but you can create creases and pleats by needling vertical lines down the front of the figure. Work from the figure’s left to the figure’s right. Once one vertical line is needled, you can push and bunch the felt slightly before needling the next line to create deeper pleats.

Once the pre-felt around the neckline is needled down, cut a small portion (about ½”) of the remaining felt from the top of the pre-felt piece so that the pre-felt can wrap under the right arm of the figure and around to the back.

Trim any access felt and then needle the loose end of the pre-felt to the back of the figure.

For the arms of the robe, cut rectangular pieces of pre-felt which run from the top of the shoulder to just above the end of the arm. The piece should be long enough to wrap around the arm.

Turn the figure so the front is facing you. Needle the pre-felt around the front neckline to secure it.

Pre-felt does not drape easily on its own, but you can create creases and pleats by needling vertical lines down the front of the figure. Work from the figure’s left to the figure’s right. Once one vertical line is needled, you can push and bunch the felt slightly before needling the next line to create deeper pleats.

Once the pre-felt around the neckline is needled down, cut a small portion (about ½”) of the remaining felt from the top of the pre-felt piece so that the pre-felt can wrap under the right arm of the figure and around to the back.

Trim any access felt and then needle the loose end of the pre-felt to the back of the figure.

For the arms of the robe, cut rectangular pieces of pre-felt which run from the top of the shoulder to just above the end of the arm. The piece should be long enough to wrap around the arm.

Turn the figure so the front is facing you. Needle the pre-felt around the front neckline to secure it.

Pre-felt does not drape easily on its own, but you can create creases and pleats by needling vertical lines down the front of the figure. Work from the figure’s left to the figure’s right. Once one vertical line is needled, you can push and bunch the felt slightly before needling the next line to create deeper pleats.

Once the pre-felt around the neckline is needled down, cut a small portion (about ½”) of the remaining felt from the top of the pre-felt piece so that the pre-felt can wrap under the right arm of the figure and around to the back.

Trim any access felt and then needle the loose end of the pre-felt to the back of the figure.

For the arms of the robe, cut rectangular pieces of pre-felt which run from the top of the shoulder to just above the end of the arm. The piece should be long enough to wrap around the arm.

Star Wars Epic Yarns ©& ™ 2015 LUCASFILM LTD. ©Jack and Holman Wangwww.jACkAnDhoLMAn.CoM/STAr-wArS-epIC-yArnS

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Needle one end of the pre-felt to the arm, wrap the pre-felt around the arm, and then secure the second end, trimming the pre-felt as necessary. Secure the pre-felt even more by needling around the shoulder seam.

Repeat with the other arm. Once the arms of the robe are done, your figure should look something like this.

For the hood, cut a piece of pre-felt which is about 2.5” – 3” high, and about 6” - 7” wide.

Wrap the pre-felt so it creates a cone shape. Then place the pre-felt down on the foam pad and needle through the overlapping portions of pre-felt so that the cone shape will hold.

Needle one end of the pre-felt to the arm, wrap the pre-felt around the arm, and then secure the second end, trimming the pre-felt as necessary. Secure the pre-felt even more by needling around the shoulder seam.

Repeat with the other arm. Once the arms of the robe are done, your figure should look something like this.

For the hood, cut a piece of pre-felt which is about 2.5” – 3” high, and about 6” - 7” wide.

Wrap the pre-felt so it creates a cone shape. Then place the pre-felt down on the foam pad and needle through the overlapping portions of pre-felt so that the cone shape will hold.

Needle one end of the pre-felt to the arm, wrap the pre-felt around the arm, and then secure the second end, trimming the pre-felt as necessary. Secure the pre-felt even more by needling around the shoulder seam.

Repeat with the other arm. Once the arms of the robe are done, your figure should look something like this.

For the hood, cut a piece of pre-felt which is about 2.5” – 3” high, and about 6” - 7” wide.

Wrap the pre-felt so it creates a cone shape. Then place the pre-felt down on the foam pad and needle through the overlapping portions of pre-felt so that the cone shape will hold.

Needle one end of the pre-felt to the arm, wrap the pre-felt around the arm, and then secure the second end, trimming the pre-felt as necessary. Secure the pre-felt even more by needling around the shoulder seam.

Repeat with the other arm. Once the arms of the robe are done, your figure should look something like this.

For the hood, cut a piece of pre-felt which is about 2.5” – 3” high, and about 6” - 7” wide.

Wrap the pre-felt so it creates a cone shape. Then place the pre-felt down on the foam pad and needle through the overlapping portions of pre-felt so that the cone shape will hold.

Needle one end of the pre-felt to the arm, wrap the pre-felt around the arm, and then secure the second end, trimming the pre-felt as necessary. Secure the pre-felt even more by needling around the shoulder seam.

Repeat with the other arm. Once the arms of the robe are done, your figure should look something like this.

For the hood, cut a piece of pre-felt which is about 2.5” – 3” high, and about 6” - 7” wide.

Wrap the pre-felt so it creates a cone shape. Then place the pre-felt down on the foam pad and needle through the overlapping portions of pre-felt so that the cone shape will hold.

Star Wars Epic Yarns ©& ™ 2015 LUCASFILM LTD. ©Jack and Holman Wangwww.jACkAnDhoLMAn.CoM/STAr-wArS-epIC-yArnS

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Take the scissors and cut a hole in the coned pre-felt to create the hood. The hole should be large enough to reveal the Jawa’s eyes, but smaller than the height and width of the Jawa’s head.

Place the hood over top of the Jawa’s head and turn the figure over. Cut off excess pre-felt at the back of the hood. Then secure the hood to the Jawa by needling all along the back edge of the hood.

Needle the bottom edge of the hood on all sides. You can create a crease at the front of the hood under the chin by needling a horizontal line.

Finally, to add bandoliers, cut two long strips of dark brown craft felt, about 3/8” wide and about 6” long. Wrap one around each shoulder and under the oppo-site arm, and needle the ends to the back of the figure. Finally cut small squares from the craft felt and glue them on to the front bandolier for extra detail.And there you have it! Your very own needle felted Jawa!

Take the scissors and cut a hole in the coned pre-felt to create the hood. The hole should be large enough to reveal the Jawa’s eyes, but smaller than the height and width of the Jawa’s head.

Place the hood over top of the Jawa’s head and turn the figure over. Cut off excess pre-felt at the back of the hood. Then secure the hood to the Jawa by needling all along the back edge of the hood.

Needle the bottom edge of the hood on all sides.

You can create a crease at the front of the hood under the chin by needling a horizontal line.

Finally, to add bandoliers, cut two long strips of dark brown craft felt, about 3/8” wide and about 6” long. Wrap one around each shoulder and under the opposite arm, and needle the ends to the back of the figure. Finally cut small squares from the craft felt and glue them on to the front bandolier for extra detail.

And there you have it! Your very own needle-felted Jawa!

Take the scissors and cut a hole in the coned pre-felt to create the hood. The hole should be large enough to reveal the Jawa’s eyes, but smaller than the height and width of the Jawa’s head.

Place the hood over top of the Jawa’s head and turn the figure over. Cut off excess pre-felt at the back of the hood. Then secure the hood to the Jawa by needling all along the back edge of the hood.

Needle the bottom edge of the hood on all sides.

You can create a crease at the front of the hood under the chin by needling a horizontal line.

Finally, to add bandoliers, cut two long strips of dark brown craft felt, about 3/8” wide and about 6” long. Wrap one around each shoulder and under the opposite arm, and needle the ends to the back of the figure. Finally cut small squares from the craft felt and glue them on to the front bandolier for extra detail.

And there you have it! Your very own needle-felted Jawa!

Take the scissors and cut a hole in the coned pre-felt to create the hood. The hole should be large enough to reveal the Jawa’s eyes, but smaller than the height and width of the Jawa’s head.

Place the hood over top of the Jawa’s head and turn the figure over. Cut off excess pre-felt at the back of the hood. Then secure the hood to the Jawa by needling all along the back edge of the hood.

Needle the bottom edge of the hood on all sides.

You can create a crease at the front of the hood under the chin by needling a horizontal line.

Finally, to add bandoliers, cut two long strips of dark brown craft felt, about 3/8” wide and about 6” long. Wrap one around each shoulder and under the opposite arm, and needle the ends to the back of the figure. Finally cut small squares from the craft felt and glue them on to the front bandolier for extra detail.

And there you have it! Your very own needle-felted Jawa!

Take the scissors and cut a hole in the coned pre-felt to create the hood. The hole should be large enough to reveal the Jawa’s eyes, but smaller than the height and width of the Jawa’s head.

Place the hood over top of the Jawa’s head and turn the figure over. Cut off excess pre-felt at the back of the hood. Then secure the hood to the Jawa by needling all along the back edge of the hood.

Needle the bottom edge of the hood on all sides.

You can create a crease at the front of the hood under the chin by needling a horizontal line.

Finally, to add bandoliers, cut two long strips of dark brown craft felt, about 3/8” wide and about 6” long. Wrap one around each shoulder and under the opposite arm, and needle the ends to the back of the figure. Finally cut small squares from the craft felt and glue them on to the front bandolier for extra detail.

And there you have it! Your very own needle-felted Jawa!

Star Wars Epic Yarns ©& ™ 2015 LUCASFILM LTD. ©Jack and Holman Wangwww.jACkAnDhoLMAn.CoM/STAr-wArS-epIC-yArnS