Sri Lanka Nov 2012 TR BS CK - Limosa Holidays

Limosa Holidays & Travelling Naturalist Trip Report

Sri Lanka: Jewel of the Indian Ocean Thu 15th – Thu 29th Nov 2012

1 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

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Photos (clockwise, from top left): Crested Hawk-eagle at close range at Blue Magpie Lodge • A family of Indian Elephants at Udewalawe • “Ello, ‘ello”, the endemic Chestnut-backed Owlet at Kithulgala Police Station • Sri Lankan Woodshrike having just eaten a moth at Tissa • The very smart female White-naped Flameback at Tissa • Rain Trees at Tissa tanks – filled with Flying Foxes © Brian Small/Limosa Holidays

report compiled by tour leader: Brian Small

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Trip Report: Sri Lanka 15th – 29th Nov 2012


Photos (clockwise from top left): One of the Brown Wood Owls at the Surrey Tea Estates • Two Sri Lankan Frogmouths at Sinharaja • Little and large... we saw a good number of Stork-billed Kingfishers, including this one Sigiriya • And a diminutive Hill Swallow at ‘World’s End’, Horton Plains © Brian Small/Limosa Holidays



Trip Diary Tour Leaders: Brian Small & Tharanga Herath with Phil Blatcher, Rod & Janet Bull, Sue Cable, Hazel Cunningham, Andrew Herbert, Judith Kertland, John MacLean, Terry Rice and Nuala Simpson Well, what a trip! The weather was largely kind to us, especially in the early part of the tour, and when it did rain it somehow added to the experience that is Sri Lanka. A beautiful island and a safe country to visit, we were always made to feel very welcome at all of the lodges and hotels, with friendly smiles and attentive staff. The spicy Sri Lankan food was terrific, and we all tucked in. Much thanks must go to Tharanga, who was an excellent leader, and thanks to his intimate knowledge of the island and its bird communities we were able to see all or most of Sri Lanka’s special birds. His organisation meant that when we had missed a species at one site, he tried to find a means of seeing it at another. In the highlands we took the chance to see a working tea factory and made an evening visit to the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy during a tumultuous rain and thunderstorm that simply added to the experience. This tour to Sri Lanka focuses on the southern half of the island, starting with the lush forests of the 'Wet Zone', which are important areas for most of the endemic birds, such as Serendib Scops Owl and Sri Lankan Blue Magpie. The ‘Dry Zone’ and montane forests hold a number of more typical southern Indian species, with a few more endemics thrown in, and supported by an exciting array of winter visitors, often in large numbers, and some spectacular national parks that are home to wild Elephants and Leopards. For the second time with this particular itinerary, Limosa returned to the southeast of the island and visited the national parks of Bundala and Yala. These areas had been off limits due to restrictions imposed by the recent civil war, but with stability returning we were once again able to enjoy the wildlife of this region. Having arrived in Colombo from London, via Dubai, we made the relatively short drive on good roads to our home for two night at Kithulgala. We made a single stop at a rice field on the way, picking up a host of new species, including Ashy Woodswallow and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, plus the ubiquitous White-throated Kingfisher and Common Mynas. Arriving in time for a lovely lunch, with spicy Sri Lankan vegetables curries, we settled in ready for the next couple of days. Kithulgala is home to many of Sri Lanka’s endemic Wet Zone birds, and our hotel, which overlooks the Kelani River, became famous as one of the locations for the filming of ‘Bridge on the River Kwai’. Even today, photographs of Alec Guinness, Jack Hawkins, William Holden and their fellow co-stars decorate the walls. From the viewpoint over the river, we were quickly adding new species to the list: Layard’s Parakeets, our first Orange-billed Babblers and Yellow-browed Bulbuls, Sri Lankan Hanging Parrots, numerous Indian Swiftlets scythed overhead and Rod found the endemic Yellow-fronted Barbets at the front of the hotel. Around the flowers we saw both Loten’s and Purple-rumped Sunbirds, Golden-fronted Leafbirds, Oriental White-eyes, whilst in the trees Black-hooded Oriole, White-bellied Drongo, Green Warblers called, and overhead Sri Lankan Swallows zoomed. It is the two endemic owls which are the ‘targets’ at Kithulgala’, but following our river crossings in a dug-out canoe on the two days, and despite Tharanga’s persistence, we did not find Serendib Scops Owl, However, we did manage to see Chestnut-backed Owlet after it had given us the run-around, in the early morning mist of our second day. A short walk here also produced Brown-capped Babblers, Sri Lankan Green and Green Imperial Pigeons, but the real highlight was the flycatching white form Asian Paradise Flycatcher – whose extravagant tail seemed to give it extra spring when hunting rather than the hindrance it might have appeared. Truly stunning and one of the moments of the trip for many. Also in the area we found Black-capped Bulbuls, a flock of Brown-backed Needletails zapped through, and at almost the final roll of the dice two endemic Green-billed Coucals showed themselves and called. So on to Sinharaja, a World Heritage site with some of the last remnants of Sri Lanka’s once extensive rainforest. We arrived at our home for two nights, the Blue Magpie Lodge at lunch – another good one, with local vegetables – then took a late afternoon walk, during which we saw Sri Lanka Crested Drongos and our only Square-tailed Drongo-cuckoo of the trip, before we eventually tried for a very special bird. Found by a local guide that had been searching since 4am that morning, this bird was to prove one of the most difficult and exciting I have ever to get a group to see. Down a slope into the dense forest and not really visible through the ‘scope (too close), the owl had chosen its roosting site under a fallen palm frond. Best visible from about half a metre from the ground, over the



next hour or more, we all had stunningly close views of this amazing species. We walked back to the lodge at dusk, tired, a little dirty, but very pleased at seeing the owl having missed it at Kithulgala. Sinharaja is also the best place to see Sri Lankan Spurfowl, so the next morning having first driven to the gate to collect our permits and Phil finding our second Spot-winged Ground Thrush, our excellent drivers took us to one of Tharanga’s special sites to try and find one of the most elusive of the island’s endemics. Having chosen a quite difficult spot to view, we all eventually had good views of a pair of spurfowl amongst some rocks and trees, then we moved into the National Park itself. The drivers man-handled the jeeps over very rocky terrain, before we parked and spent most of the rest of the day walking to the Research Station and back. Most of our target birds travel in mixed feeding flocks, and before too long we had found a noisy group in which Ashy-headed Laughingthrushes and Orange-billed Babblers predominated, but by carefully working our way through them we enjoyed good looks at White-faced Starlings and a number of Sri Lankan Scimitar-babblers and a Red-faced Malkoha sat high in the canopy. At the research station we were treated to a party of close-range Sri Lankan Blue Magpies, equally good views of Sri Lankan Junglefowl, a male Malabar Trogon, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrikes and Black-headed Cuckooshrikes, but the Scaly Thrush that Tharanga had found in the leaf litter called, but failed to show itself to us. On our way back to the lodge, our two drivers disappeared off into one of their gardens and returned having found two Sri Lankan Frogmouths, which we all traipsed off to see at close range and very exciting too – the great effort by the drivers to find and help us see them was much appreciated. Following a mid afternoon rest, with fly-over Crested Treeswifts, a late walk produced two Crimson-fronted Barbets, Orange Minivets, and parties of square-tailed Black Drongos. The following morning, a brief stroll produced a tantalisingly distant Legge’s Flowerpecker, but just as we were about to depart the lodge a male showed beautifully in a low tree – its deep blue upperparts complementing the underparts. Arriving at Embilipitiya for lunch, we checked into our rooms, had a brief look over the surrounding lake, which was swarming with 1000s of Whiskered and a few Gull-billed Terns, then drove south to the fine wetland reserve at Kalametiya on the south coast. We spent a most pleasant late afternoon birding in the scrub and wetlands of the sanctuary, enjoyable as it was in complete contrast to the rainforest with birds abundant and easily seen. Highlights included numerous herons, egrets, terns, several Indian Stone-curlew and Great Thick-knees, Yellow-wattled Lapwings, our first Sri Lanka Woodshrike, Marsh Sandpipers, Lesser Sandplovers and Brahminy Kites. A huge flock of Black-tailed Godwits, estimated to be in the region of 5,000 birds, waded in the shallows of the lagoon before taking to the air and flying off. As the sun dipped towards the horizon we finally reached the Indian Ocean where many Whiskered and White-winged Black Terns flew lazily over the ocean. Stopping for fuel, we unloaded and had a final look across a rice field, where at least 10,000 Black-tailed Godwits probed the wet soil in a tightly packed flock – interestingly a handful were very much smaller and shorter billed than the majoity of typical nominate birds, raising the possibility (likelihood) of them being eastern birds of the form melanoroides. As we returned to the hotel the heavens opened and at one stage, as the roads flooded, it felt as if we were driving against the flow of a strong river – at one town the road was blocked by a huge fallen tree! Leaving the hotel early gave us the chance to enter Udewalawe National Park at first light. We had a fantastic morning’s safari, and the many large mammals we saw were undoubtedly one of the highlights of the tour. We soon encountered our first Indian Elephants, with many youngsters amongst the females. Birds were plentiful, with raptors providing many of the highlights: many Crested Hawk Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Grey-headed Fish Eagle, Black-winged Kite, several Booted Eagles of both light and dark forms, a fine male Pallid Harrier, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Kestrel, etc.. During our drive in the 4x4s through the grasslands, we watched flocks of Scaly-breasted and Black-headed Munias, Ashy and Plain Prinias, and a couple of Yellow-eyed Babblers, Jerdon’s Bush-lark and a couple of Indian Pittas were glimpsed, but good views would have to wait. Both Jacobin and Grey-bellied Cuckoos were seen. We enjoyed our picnic breakfast on a rocky outcrop overlooking the reservoir with huge numbers of wetland birds, among them Spot-billed Pelicans, Painted Storks, Indian Cormorants, and many herons and egrets. A Yellow Wagtail, possible an Eastern bird, was the first of several on the trip. As we drove along we were able to pick out a small number of parties of Barred Buttonquails, which scurried away into cover, but paused long enough to be seen by most, some giving excellent views. However, it was soon time to leave and having briefly got stuck in the mud, make the short drive to Tissamaharana for lunch at our next hotel – the excellent Safari.



Tissa is central to some wonderful birding and we enjoyed visits to the large tanks at Debarawewa and Tissa, created to provide soil and water for the rice fields (a natural balance encouraged by the Buddhist religion). The wetlands abounded with birds, with highlights such as White-bellied Sea Eagles, Lesser Whistling Ducks, Purple and Grey Herons, a handful of Garganey, three Black Bittern, including a male so close you could almost smell it. One of the undoubted highlight at Tissa was following a young lad through the narrow lanes of Debarawewa on the promise of a Brown Fish Owl that was hunting along a narrow channel. Just before we arrived it had flown to a less accessible spot, but being entrepid birders we waded through the channel to a sand bar in the stream and had frame-filling views as it sat being mobbed by Yellow-billed Babblers. Superb and a great moment to enjoy. At this site we also saw other woodland species, such as a pair of stunning White-naped Flamebacks, a Blue-faced Malkoha, searching of a flock of Wood and Marsh Sandpipers in the rice fields produced a single Long-toed Stint, Stork-billed Kingfishers and huge roosts of Indian Flying Foxes. This is truly a bird-rich habitat and was very much enjoyed by us all. At the hotel we saw four Malabar Pied Hornbills. On one morning we explored Bundala National Park, where we had a fine safari out through the amazing wetlands to a series of pans that held thousands of waders (a couple of Greater Sandplovers were found amongst the many Lessers, at least five Red-necked Phalaropes fed on the brackish water, a single Tereks and many Curlew and Marsh Sandpipers, plus 150+ Pacaific Golden Plover) and terns (especially Little and Whiskered, but with many Gull-billed, White-winged Black, Caspian, four Crested and two Lesser Crested). A party of three Small Pratincoles that ran and skimmed over the pans was a real joy, Little Ringed and Ringed Plovers were picked out from groups of Kentish. Along the reed edges diminutive Yellow Bitterns stealthy hunted; in the reeds we heard and saw a number of Clamorous Reed Warblers of the endemic race meridionalis, while towering Purple and Grey Herons stalked the deeper waters, and the scrubby savanna habitat held good numbers of typical species, including a couple of Indian Silverbills for one jeep. And so to Yala NP, a treat we chose to savour on the very last afternoon. Yala still remains the best place to see Leopard in Sri Lanka, so if this is your ambition, then a visit to Yala is a must. We knew this, but so do all the tourists who now visit the island in ever-increasing numbers - tranquility was extremely difficult to find in the dust churned up by the jeeps that roar around in the hunt for Leopards. In the end we joined the melee and saw a couple of fine adult Leopards sleeping in the grass and a tree, but with the heaving mass of vehicles filled with tourists that actually seemed unable to see or uninterested in seeing the fine animals we left for quieter spots. At a large lagoon we found good numbers of Small Pratincoles, perhaps nesting, three huge Black-necked Storks (including one youngster), Chital and Sambar, Wild Boar and Buffalo. Two Lesser Adjutants were seen, and another Grey-bellied Cuckoo put in a brief appearance. At dusk, just outside the park entrance, a handful of Indian Nightjars showed in the torchlight. En route to Nuwara Eliya, the former hill station situated at 2,000 m on Sri Lanka’s cool highlands, nestling by lakeside waters set amidst tea plantations, we paused at the Rawana waterfalls for a cup of tea and at the Surrey Tea Estate for a pair of Brown Wood Owls found by a local that allowed great views for all; a Common Hawk Cuckoo gave its‘brain-fever’ call, becoming ever more shrill as it reached its climax. Having settled into the hotel and enjoyed another fine lunch (one of the best), we made for the town’s renowned Victoria Park, home to winter visitors and montane endemics. In just a couple of hours we added Yellow-eared Bulbuls and Sri Lankan White-eyes, a superb adult male Kashmir Flycatcher, chesty Forest Wagtails that fed by the stream, a smart male Indian Blue Robin which flaunted himself to all comers and a fine Indian Pitta in the undergrowth. On another visit to the park the next afternoon, a fine Pied Thrush was seen by Tharanga, Phil and John, but sadly flew off low down the stream and did not appear despite us waiting until dusk. Hey ho. No visit to the highlands would be complete without an early start to Horton Plains! This attractive region encompasses a patchwork landscape of wooded hillsides and grassy plains. We reached the entrance just after 05.45am and were rewarded with outstanding views of Indian Blackbirds feeding by the roadside with a small number of young birds pestering their parents – they seem to vanish after sunrise. As dawn broke, we were treated to a gloriously clear and calm day, and as we drove in disturbed a Crested Goshawk that had just caught a Sri Lanka Wood Pigeon! Yellow-eared Bulbuls and Sri Lankan White-eyes were conspicuous, but it was Sri Lanka’s notoriously elusive Whistling Thrush that we hoped to see. We made our way to the Arrenga Pool, traditional home to its namesake, the Arrenga (or Sri Lankan Whistling Thrush), and had stunning views of this notoriously difficult-to-see species, the blue on the bend of the wing glowing in the sunlight. We had brief views of Sri Lanka Bush Warbler, several Green Warblers, a couple of endemic Dull-blue Flycatchers flitted and four Sri Lanka Wood



Pigeons, with one perched high in a tree catching the early morning sun. By mid-morning we moved on to the grasslands where dapper Pied Bushchats showed nicely atop the low bushes and grass tussocks, Oriental Honey Buzzards drifted overhead, many Hill Swallows attended their nests, and showed well whilst we had breakfast. Herds of Sambar grazed the grasslands and a couple of feeding Ruddy Mongooses grubbed around. Our next destination was Kandy, but we paused along the way at the Glenloch tea factory for a very interesting tour of the factory and a quick cuppa and cake - it is also a reliable site for Hill Swallow, which again showed to perfection, flittering overhead. We left laden down with tea of all shapes and tastes. The weather closed in, and having lunched at our hotel, the Suisse (an old building used by Lord Mountbatten during the Second World war), as we set off for the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens the heavens opened and threatened to wash us all away. We spent much of the afternoon under umbrellas exploring the extensive grounds. Highlights included Southern Hill Myna, Rose-ringed Parakeets, Brown-headed Barbets, and Orange Minivets, but actually the weather won. Across the city we visited the Temple of the Tooth in a torrential downpour, with loud claps of thunder echoing around the city; it all added to the experience. Our final destination was Sigiriya, a World Seritage site dominated by the granite outcrop, and the ‘village’of bungalows a haven of peace and tranquillity - but full of birds. A quick stop in the afternoon produced numerous species, White-browed Fantail, Indian Robins, Sri Lanka Green Pigeons, Asian Paradise Flycatchers, all came quickly. Sadly, the pattern of late heavy rain had set in and so our late return in the hope of owls produced nothing except for an Orange-headed Ground Thrush. A gentle stroll the following morning around the perimeter of the moats around the archaeological site of produced Sri Lankan Woodshrikes, Jungle Prinias, many Common Ioras, Stork-billed Kingfishers amongst many mnore species. A local drive also produced yet more Brown Shrikes, a male Streaked Weaver, and a fine Coppersmith Barbet that all could see. And so we journeyed back to the coast in preparation for our flights to the UK. We said our goodbyes to Tharanga , the driver and the driver’s mate before checking in to Dubai where John and Hazel went their way off to Glasgow the rest to Heathrow. I hope you all enjoyed the tour as much as I did; between us we had seen or heard all of Sri Lanka’s 33 currently recognised endemic bird species. We had seen some great birds, with Indian Pitta, Kashmir Flycatcher, Orange-headed Thrush, together with masses of shorebirds and terns which added variety, quality and quantity to our experience and by the end, we had recorded a very respectable 246 bird species. Tharanga was superb and settled down to our quirky sense of humour with many gems of his own (“elephants on elephants” springs to mind) and helped me enormously on a number of occasions. I would like to thank you to him and you all for your company and for putting up with me.

Brian Small OUTLINE ITINERARY 15th Nov: Depart London for Colombo, via Dubai 16th Nov: am Arrive Colombo, drive to Kithulgala, pm Kithulgala and forests 17th Nov: All day Kithulgala 18th Nov: Early am Kithulgala, then drive to Sinharaja via Ratnapura 19th Nov: Full day Sinharaja 20th Nov: am drive to Embilimpitiya, pm Kalametiya 21st Nov: am Udewalawe NP, pm drive to Tissa and Tissa tanks until dusk 22nd Nov: am Bundala NP, pm Tissa 23rd Nov: am Tissa and Debarawewa, pm Yala NP 24th Nov: am drive to Nuwara Eliya, pm Victoria Park 25th Nov: am Horton Plains and ‘World’s End’, pm Victoria Park 26th Nov: early am Nuwara Eliya, then drive to Kandy; pm Peradeniya Botanical Gardens 27th Nov: am Udewattakele Forest Reserve, pm drive to Sigiriya, birding to dusk 28th Nov: am Sigiriya, pm drive to Negombo 29th Nov: Return to London via Dubai



ANNOTATED LIST OF BIRDS (A total of 246 species recorded by the group)

The sequence adopted here generally follows Dickinson (2003) The Howard & Moore Complete Checklist of the Birds of the World’, but modified to include some taxonomic revisions proposed by Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) Birds of South Asia - which proposes that a further nine endemic races should be elevated to species status, together with the splitting of many races which breed in Sri Lanka and elsewhere in the Indian subcontinent from species occurring elsewhere. Sri Lankan Spurfowl Galloperdix bicalcarata ENDEMIC

Heard on 16th and 17th across the river from Kithulgala, but two were eventually seen at Sinharaja on 19th – the male being especially smart.

Sri Lanka Junglefowl Gallus lafayetti ENDEMIC Six seen at Sinharaja on 19th were notably tame, though still wild; we saw others on six further dates, the highest number being four at Kalametiya.

Indian Peafowl Pavo cristata Common in dry wooded grasslands at Udewalawe, Kalametiya, Bundala and Yala.

Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica Common on the larger tanks at Tissa and Debarawewa, with with high numbers on many dates.

Cotton Pygmy-goose Nettapus coromandelianus These diminutive geese can sometimes be difficult to find, and we only saw small groups of up to five at various tanks near Tissa.

Pintail Anas acuta Small parties at Kalametiya (15) and Bundala (four) on 20th and 22nd respectively Garganey Anas querquedula

Just three at Debarawewa tank on 21st. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

Also surprisingly scarce. Noted on four dates in small numbers on most tanks we checked. Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala

Small numbers noted at Udewalawe NP and Kalametiya, Bundala NP and Yala NP, with good views at a number of sites.

Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans Fairly widespread in small numbers on most rice fields even well inland; noted on ten dates at several sites; Kithulgala, Kalametiya, throughout the Tissa region including Bundala and Yala NPs, and Sigiriya.

Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus Noted on three dates ay two sites, Udewalawe (four on 21st) and Sigiriya one on 27th and 28th). Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus

Three of these mighty and smart storks were seen, two adults and an immature at Yala on 23rd; especially good in flight

Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus Two at Yala NP on 23rd were the only sightings.

Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephala A widespread and fairly common species, frequently seen feeding in roadside paddy, and noted on six dates. Distribution similar to that of Asian Openbill but generally more numerous, with notable roosts near Tissa.

Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia 30+ at Bundala NP on 22nd and four at Debarawewa tank on 23rd.

Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis Seen on five dates, with our first at Kalametiya on 20th, at least ten at Bundala NP and others at Debarawewa tank. Surprisingly one was on a small pond as we drove back from Horton Plains on 25th.

Black Bittern Dupetor flavicollis A male was in the canal at Debarawewa on 21st – initially flushed then watched at very close range as it hid in the vegetation thinking we could not see it; one was at Bundala and then two at Tissa.

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Noted on five dates, with good numbers often seen in flight at dusk; high numbers from the hotel at Tissa and all dates.

Striated Heron Butorides striata Two or three at Bundala NP on 22nd and two at the hotel at Tissa the next day.



Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii Common, widespread and seen most days, Occurs in any open, damp habitat.

Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus Widespread and abundant, occurring in wetlands and open country throughout and seen daily in good numbers. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) recommend this taxon is treated as a species distinct from Cattle Egret B. ibis of Europe and Africa.

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Small numbers noted at Embilipitiya, Udewalawe, Kalametiya, Bundala, Yala and throughout the Tissa region.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea One feeding in roadside paddy en route from Negombo to Kithulgala on 16th. Otherwise, quite a few were seen on the larger tanks with abundant emergent vegetation, with double figures on two dates.

Great White Egret Ardea alba Distribution similar to that of Purple Heron, but more likely to be seen with other egrets in roadside rice fields.

Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia Quite straightforward when you get your eye in. After a few rather unsatisfactory birds seen from the moving bus it was pleasing to finally obtain good looks at this subtly attractive egret at Udewalawe NP and Kalametiya on 8th. It is indeed intermediate.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta Common and widely recorded.

Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis Widespread and numerous, particularly in the southeast, and probably more readily seen in Sri Lanka than elsewhere. Noted on five dates, most frequently in the tanks at Tissa and Debarawewa.

Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger Common, widely recorded throughout the island even in small streams and seen daily with the exception 19th.

Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis Much less widespread than Little Cormorant and significantly less numerous and noted on just five dates – more likely on larger areas of water – the highest numbers at Udewalawe.

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Two at Kalametiya on 20th were the first, then others at Embilipitiya, Udewalawe and Bundala.

Darter Anhinga melanogaster Small numbers seen at the same sites as Great Comorant: Embilimpitiya, Udewalawe NP, Kalametiya, Bundala, Yala and tanks throughout the Tissa region. A. melanogaster is usually treated as a polytypic species which includes the nominate form that occurs in Asia, together with both African A. (m.) rufa and Australian Darters A. (m.) novaehollandiae.

Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Two at Udewalawe NP, one at Ella and one at Horton Plains – and that’s your lot! Peregrine Falco peregrinus

Two in flight over the valley by the waterfall at Rawana Ella where we stopped for tea on 24th and one above the rock at Sigiriya on 28th. Birds breeding in Sri Lanka and peninsular India are of the resident form, F. p. peregrinator (also known as the Shaheen or Shahin Falcon), which shows a deep chestnut wash to the lower breast, belly and thighs, and extensive dark sides to the head, making the ‘moustache’ less obvious.

[Osprey Pandion haliaetus One leader only at Embilipitiya on 20th.]

Oriental Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus Always unpredictable as it occurs widely but in small numbers. This year noted on eight dates, with the highest numbers seen at Horton Plains, including a number of immatures.

Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus Seen only at Udewalawe NP on 21st, with both adults and young birds seen.

Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus A common and widespread bird throughout the lowlands, particularly near wetlands and the coast. Noted on nine dates and most numerous in coastal regions, especially at Udewalawe and Yala NP.

White-bellied Sea-eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster Not restricted to the coast in Sri Lanka, in fact it seems to be quite scarce in coastal regions, whereas it is fairly widespread and common inland. Noted on seven dates at Embilimpitiya, Udewalawe, Debarawewa and Tissa tanks, Yala NP, Nuwara Eliya, Kandy and Sigiriya.



Grey-headed Fish Eagle Haliaeetus ichthyaetus Seen on only two dates: one at Udewalawe on 21st and four at Bundala on the next day – a big brute with a gruff voice.

Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela Widespread in small numbers, particularly in the Wet Zone. Noted on just six days. Endemic subspecies S. c. spilogaster.

Pallid Harrier Circus macrurous An adult male gave good if distant views as it perched up on a bare tree at Udewalawe NP on 21st.

Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus Fine views of an immature that had just killed a Sri Lankan Wood Pigeon at Horton Plains on 25th – a pale bird with virtually no markings below and of the race A. t. layardi that is endemic to Sri Lanka.

Shikra Accipiter badius This is a widespread species but it can be quite secretive. In total, just 11 birds were seen on eight dates, and it took a while for some to catch up with decent views as most skimmed through the trees ahead of us.

Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis Six en route to Sinharaja on 18th; one on 24th then a brown bird at Sigiriya on 28th. This fine eagle hunts low over the canopy where it preys chiefly on Giant Squirrels.

Booted Eagle Aquila pennata Six birds on three dates is a good total for this infrequent species in SL: a dark and two pale morphs at Udewalawe on 21st, one at Glenloch Tea Estate on 26th and two at Sigiriya on 28th.

Rufous-bellied Hawk-eagle Lophotriorchis kienerii One over the river at Kithulgala on 17th for a favoured few, then a long wait until an educational immature bird at Sigiriya on 28th for most to catch up. To most eyes this bird looked so similar in shape and structure (and in plumage, including the pale inner primaries) to Booted that it is hard to see why they are in different genuses.

Crested Hawk-eagle Nisaetus cirrhatus This attractive eagle was noted on nine dates at Kithulgala, Sinharaja, Udewalawe NP (at least 30 here – thanks to Lucky the ‘eagle-eyed guide’), Yala NP, en route to Nuwara Eliya and en route to Kandy. Sri Lankan and southern Indian birds display a prominent long crest, quite different to those inhabiting the rest of the species’ range, and were formerly treated as a distinct species, Crested Hawk-eagle S. linaetus. This treatment might well be adopted again in the future. Endemic subspecies S. c. ceylonensis. A superb young bird at Blue Magpie Lodge showed so well at such close range that it was one of the highlights of the trip.

Mountain Hawk-eagle Nisaetus nipalensis Three were seen on three dates: at Kithulgala on 16th; an immature en route on 18th and a really smart bird at Ella cliffs on 24th.

White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus Widespread, common and noted on eight dates, with really good views at Kithulgala and Debarawewa.

Watercock Gallicrex cinerea Three young birds were found lurking in the vegetation at Debarawewa on 21st, looking like large Corncrakes around the head.

Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio Common, often in large groups of up to 30, at Bundala NP, Debarawewa and Tissa tanks, and Sigiriya. The various populations of this species are accorded species status by some authorities. The form occurring in Sri Lanka and India is the ‘Grey-headed’ Swamphen P. p. poliocephalus.

Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Four dates, most numerous at Tissa.

Coot Fulica atra Two then four at Debarawewa on 21st and 23rd. A scarce and local bird in Sri Lanka.

Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator At least eight seen during the safari drive at Udewalawe NP on 21st and several at Bundala the next day. Endemic subspecies T. s. leggei. The distinctive ‘song’ resembles the noise made by a small motorbike!

Indian Stone-curlew Burhinus indicus At least ten at Kalametiya on 20th. Note that Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) have concluded that this taxon, which also occurs in India, merits specific status and have split it from the widespread Stone-curlew B. oedicnemus of Europe and Central Asia.

Great Thick-knee Burhinus recurvirostris Several of these noisy beasts were seen in the southeast, with five at Kalametiya our first; also, 15+ at Bundala NP and othersat Yala, where two sat on the road in the dark as we left.



Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Common in freshwater and coastal wetlands in the southeast. Noted at Embilimpitiya, Udewalawe NP, Kalametiya, Bundala and Yala NPs. Most numerous on the salt pans at Bundala.

Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus At least five at Kalametiya, followed by two at Bundala NP and up to ten at Yala NP.

Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus Common and widespread throughout lowland fields and marshes. Endemic subspecies V. i. lankae.

Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva Just one at Kalametiya on 20th, but tyhen 180+ at Bundala NP on 22nd is a very noteworthy total and at least five at Yala NP.

Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola At least four at Kalametiya on, ten at Bundala NP and one at Yala.

Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Three at Bundala NP on 22nd.

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Just two sightings, of two birds at Kalametiya and up to ten at Bundala on 22nd. Birds of the resident race C. d. jerdoni retain ‘breeding’ plumage throughout the year and shows a conspicuous yellow eye-ring and reddish base to the lower mandible, whereas the northern migrant form C. d. curonicus adopts a drab ‘non-breeding’ plumage outside the breeding season. Most birds occurring in Sri Lanka are of the form jerdoni.

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus Seen only at Bundala NP on 22nd with up to 30. The distinctive resident race C. a. seebohmi is endemic to Sri Lanka and southernmost India. These birds are slightly smaller than the northern breeders and show a proportionately smaller, more delicate bill structure. In breeding plumage, the males lack the orange crown typical of the northern forms and show reduced dark breast patches and an extensive white forecrown.

Lesser Sandplover Charadrius mongolus At least ten at Kalametiya were followed by 200+ on the saltpans at Bundala and 20+ at Yala. The race that commonly winters in Sri Lanka is C. m. atrifrons (probably also including races schaeferi and pamirensis), which breeds in the high mountains of Central Asia, from the Pamirs to the Tibetan plateau. Some authorities treat this form as a species distinct from the nominate race which breeds on the tundra of northeast Siberia, but in non-breeding plumage their separation is impossible.

Greater Sandplover Charadrius leschenaultii Two with Lesser Sandplovers at Bundala NP, the second bird showed well in comparison to the nearby Lessers.

Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus Plentiful in low-lying wetlands and tanks, particularly numerous at Debarawewa and Tissa tanks and at Sigiriya.

Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura At least ten were seen feeding at Kalametiya, two at Bundala and one at Yala.

Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago One flew in and fed alongside the Pintails at kalemetiya on 20th. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa

An impressive flock, estimated to be in the region of 6,000 birds, at Kalametiya flew off inland, and maybe the same flock was seen in rice fields at dusk, where they were estimated to be c. 10,000. Almost all were large, long-billed birds and would be of the nominate race, but it was interesting to see that there was significant size with a small number within the flock being smaller and showed shorter bills. It is possible that some may have been of the east Asian race L. l. melanuroides, which is separated as a species by Rasmussen and Anderton (2005).

Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica A flock of c. 100 flew over Kalametiya on 20th.

Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus One at Kamalmetiya and one at Bundala NP.

Redshank Tringa totanus Noted on three dates. Common in coastal wetlands at Kalametiya, at Bundala and at Yala NP.

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Likewise, with good numbers at the rice field at Debarawera also.

Greenshank Tringa nebularia Quite scarce in comparison to the previous two species, with four at Kalametiya, ten at Bundala NP and two at Yala NP.

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola One at Kalametiya, followed by several at Bundala NP and many at Tissa tanks on 23rd.



Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus One at Bundala NP 22nd.

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos All sightings came from the southeast – Kalametiya, Bundala NP and Yala NP on 10th – except for one at Victoria Park, Numara Eliya.

Turnstone Arenaria interpres Three at Kalametiya, six at Bundala and five at Yala.

Little Stint Calidris minuta At least 10 at Kalametiya, a minimum of 200 at Bundala NP and many at Yala NP.

Long-toed Stint Calidris subminuta One, an adult, was found creeping amongst Wood and Marsh Sandpipers at Debarawera on 23rd

Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Similar distribution to that of Little Stint but numbers slightly smaller, e.g. 20+ at Bundala.

Ruff Philomachus pugnax Small flocks flying out to feed at Kalametiya. Oriental Pratincole Pratincola malvidarum

A loose flock flew over in the early morning at Yala on 21st. Small Pratincole Glareola lactea Three at Bundala NP and c. 30 at Yala – with some birds seeming to be nesting Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus

Five at Bundala fed nicely at close range. Little Tern Sternula albifrons

At least 30 at Kalametiya, but 100s at Bundala – the dark grey rumps of many would suggest the form sinensis or maybe just the chance of one or two Saunders’s Tern.

Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Noted on six dates, the first at the lake by the hotel at Embilimpitiya, then eight at Kalametiya, Bundala and Tissa.

Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia At least 50 at Bundala NP. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida

The most numerous and widespread tern, regularly recorded in small numbers at many freshwater wetlands and rice paddy throughout the lowlands of the Dry Zone. Several hundred noted at Kalametiya, Bundala, Udewalawe NP and at wetlands near Tissa and Sigiriya.

White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus Four at Kalametiya and others at Bundala and Tissa.

Crested Tern Sterna bergii Just four birds seen roosting at Bundala – two adults and two young. These birds showed a dark grey mantle and wings, much darker than Lesser Cresteds.

Lesser Crested Tern Sterna bengalensis Two on bunds at Bundala NP with other terns – remember their orange bills?

Feral Rock Dove Columba livia Widely noted in towns and villages throughout but absent from forested areas.

Sri Lankan Wood Pigeon Columba torringtoniae ENDEMIC This can be one of the trickier of the endemics to track down, so we were lucky to see four. The first at Horton Plains we could not count as it had just been killed by a Crested Goshawk; then one was found in a tree top on a hillside; two flew over; and finally one at the village of Ambewela on our way back to Nuwara Eliya.

Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis Common, widespread and seen daily. Endemic subspecies S. c. ceylonensis.

Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica Just six on four dates at Kithulgala, Blue Magpie Lodge and Sigiriya. Endemic subspecies C. i. robinsoni.

Orange-breasted Green Pigeon Treron bicincta Restricted to the Dry Zone where it was noted on four dates, at Udewalawe NP, Kalametiya, Bundala NP, Debarawewa and Tissa, and Yala NP on subsequent days. Endemic subspecies T. b. leggei.

Sri Lanka Green Pigeon Treron pompadora ENDEMIC Fairly common and regularly encountered in the Wet Zone at Kithulgala and Sinharaja. Elsewhere, at Udewalawe NP but easily the highest numbers were at Sigiriya. Formerly, this race was the nominate race of Pompadour Green Pigeon, restricted to Sri Lanka. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) recommended that Pompadour Green



Pigeon should be a four-way split, with the nominate endemic Sri Lanka race being treated as a full species, distinct from other races occurring of mainland India and southeast Asia.

Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea Widely recorded in wooded areas in the Wet Zone, being most numerous at Kithulgala and Sinharaja. In the Dry Zone of the southeast, much less common with ones and twos seen daily.

Sri Lankan Hanging Parrot Loriculus beryllinus ENDEMIC Quite common in wooded areas and parks of the Wet Zone, including Kithulgala and Sinharaja, but very few seen after that. The distinctive almost Grey Wagtail-like flight call often gave warning of an approaching bird.

Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria In the Wet Zone, daily at Kithulgala. Then one or two at Tissa and Peradeniya Botanical Gardens in Kandy; three at Sigiriya were enjoyed by all.

Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri Common and widespread throughout the Dry Zone.

Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala Two males at Udewalawe NP. Now separated from the Blossom-headed Parakeet P. roseata of northeast India and southeast Asia.

Layard's Parakeet Psittacula calthropae ENDEMIC Restricted to the Wet Zone, where it was regularly heard and seen at Kitulgula and Sinharaja, and also seen and heard at Udewattekele Forest Reserve and Sigiriya.

Jacobin Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus Two at Kalametiya. Jacobin Cuckoo is the name in widespread use for this species in Africa. In Asia, however, it

is more commonly (and appropriately) known as the Pied Cuckoo. Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus

One calling at Sigiriya was attracted by imitations of its call. Common Hawk-cuckoo Hierococcyx varius

One calling bird at the Surrey Tea Estate. Endemic subspecies H. c. ciceliae. Grey-bellied Cuckoo Cacomantis passerinus

Just two two, at Udewalawe and Yala NPs on 8th. Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris

An immature bird seen at Sinharaja. Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea

CommoAs this species calls less in November than February, we only saw it on four dates in the dry zone. Blue-faced Malkoha Rhopodytes viridirostris

One at Tissa on 23rd. Sirkeer Malkoha Taccocua leschenaultii

Two at Udewalawe showed well at close range. Red-faced Malkoha Phaenicophaeus pyrrhocephalus ENDEMIC

This can be a difficult bird to see well as they often move rapidly through the canopy with mixed feeding parties and are often gone before you appreciate they are there, offering just the briefest of glimpses. So we were particularly pleased to see one well at Sinharaja.

Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis Widespread and particularly numerous, being seen or heard on nine dates. Voice and immature plumage of southern birds differ parroti from northern.

Green-billed Coucal Centropus chlororhynchus ENDEMIC We were pleased to see two at Kithulgala having spent some time searching for them.

Serendib Scops Owl Otus thilohoffmanni ENDEMIC Having missed this species at our first site, we were very pleased to see one later, though it was amazingly tough to see. Following its discovery in 1997, it was described as a species new to science as recently as July 2004.

Indian Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena A roosting bird showed well in the hotel grounds at Embilimpitiya.

Brown Wood Owl Strix leptogrammica A pair of these large owls at their daytime roost showed well at the Surrey Tea Estate. This the fourth time that we have recorded this species on a tour to Sri Lanka.

Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis After being approached by a couple of lads, we followed them to a spot where we were treated to outstanding daytime views of a bird fishing in a small pool at Debarawewa. We found another at Uttawatakele.



Chestnut-backed Owlet Glaucidium castanonotum ENDEMIC We saw this endemic owl through the ‘scope at dawn in Kithulgala, having worked hard to find it. In the past, this species has been treated as a race of Asian Barred Owlet G. cuculoides, although this treatment is no longer recognised.

Sri Lankan Frogmouth Batrachostomus moniliger Two, an adult and young, were found roosting at Sinharaja by the droivers in one of their gardens. Despite its name, this species also occurs in the mountains of southwestern India and is not endemic to Sri Lanka.

Indian Nightjar Caprimulgus asiaticus At least four showed well in the torch beam just after dusk at Yala NP. A species restricted to dry scrub of the south.

Indian Swiftlet Collocalia unicolor Recorded daily in good numbers. An extremely complex genus, this species has previously been treated as a race of Edible-nest Swiftlet C. fuciphaga.

Brown-backed Needletail Hirundapus giganteus Good numbers seen in the wet zone, with groups at Kithulgala zooming by, but most had good views at Sinharaja

Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis Noted daily in fair numbers throughout.

Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba First seen upon arrival at Nuwara Eliya, buit up to 20 at Horton Plain the next day showed really well.

Little Swift Apus affinis Noted on eight dates, the best views at Bundala and Tissa. Most authorities now separate birds from northeast India and southeast Asia as House Swift A. nipalensis. Sri Lankan birds belong to the endemic subspecies singalensis, which is considered to be closest to the African and Indian races of A. affinis but, in truth, it shows features associated with A. nipalensis, in having blacker plumage and a slightly more developed tail notch.

Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata Superb views of many birds overhead at Blue Magpie Lodge spoilt us and we only saw a handful at Sigiriya.

Malabar Trogon Harpactes fasciatus This species usually moves silently within mixed bird parties, keeping to the mid storey, and usually reveals its presence only when it flies, often landing nearby and almost invariably back on to the observers. Seen at Kithulgala and at Sinharaja, a male and female at the Research Station. Endemic subspecies H. f. fasciatus.

Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis Few seen at Udewalawe NP and Sigiriya.

Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis The huge kingfisher was noted on six dates, calling at Kithulgala, Tissa tank, Sigiriya and en route on 28th.

White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis Widespread throughout the country and recorded daily.

Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx erithaca As we were walking on the trail at Udewattekele Forest Reserve we heard the call of one of these diminutive kingfishers, but sadly were unable to locate it despite a lot of seacrhing.

Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Ones and twos noted on seven dates.

Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis One at Kalametiya, followed by five at Bundala NP and at Tissa tank. The race C. r. travancoreensis is restricted to southwest India and Sri Lanka.

Little Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis Regularly encountered throughout the dry lowland regions of Sri Lanka, where it was common at Udewalawe NP, Kalametiya, Bundala and Yala NPs, and throughout the Sigiriya area. The race M. o. ceylonicus is endemic to Sri Lanka.

Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus A common and widespread winter visitor, which was seen on twelve dates at most locations we visited. Formerly included with Blue-cheeked M. persicus and Olive Bee-eaters under M. superciliosus.

Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill Ocyceros gingalensis ENDEMIC Five at Kithulgala and four at Sinharaja early in the tour, then just one more at Sigiriya on 28th. Now split from Malabar Grey Hornbill O. griseus.

Malabar Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros coronatus The first four were at the hotel at Tissa then four more the same day at Yala NP; two others en route. Stunning!



Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica Widely recorded throughout and noted on ten dates. Formerly treated as a race of Lineated Barbet M. lineata of southeast Asia and the Himalayas. Endemic subspecies M. z. zeylanica.

Yellow-fronted Barbet Megalaima flavifrons ENDEMIC Recorded on six dates, the first found by Rod at Kithulgala at the hotel.

Crimson-fronted Barbet Megalaima rubricapillus ENDEMIC Two seen together on a palm at Sinharaja and then just one at Ella en route on 24th. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) proposed that this should be split from other populations on mainland India, although the justification for this decision has not yet been published.

Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala Restricted to the Dry Zone, wherejuat two were seen, at Yala and then best of all at Sigiriya on 28th. Very smart.

Indian Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopus nanus One perched out nicely at Sinharaja, but not all saw it; another two at Bundala were found and seen by all on 22nd.

Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopus mahrattensis Just one at Bundala. The nominate race occurs in Sri Lanka and is also widespread throughout Peninsular India.

Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus One with a mixed bird party at Sinharaja. Endemic subspecies P. c. wellsi.

Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense A numerous and widespread woodpecker and seen on seven dates with good views of a number, including young birds. The endemic subspecies D. b. psarodes we encountered shows red, rather than golden orange, wings and mantle, but does intergrade with the golden mantled form D. b. jaffnense, which is endemic to northern Sri Lanka.

Crimson-backed Flameback Chrysocolaptes stricklandi ENDEMIC Alerted by the loud call of this species, we had fly-over views at Kithulgala, but it wasn’t until 25th at Horton Plains that we had sensational views of a territorial pair that appeared to be nesting by the road. This bird differs from Greater Flameback in showing red, rather than golden-orange wings and mantle. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) propose to split the endemic Sri Lanka form from other populations of Greater Flameback inhabiting mainland India and elsewhere in southeast Asia.

White-naped Flameback Chrysocolaptes festivus Following quite a bit of effort to find the pair at one of Tharanga's 'special' sites near Tissa on 21st, we had wonderful views at the same spot the next day - the bird picked away at the bark and positively glowed in the late afternoon light.

Indian Pitta Pitta brachyura Occurs from sea level up to Nuwara Eliya, and given the density at which they occur, the total wintering population could run into hundreds of thousands, possibly even millions. Upon arrival, birds establish a feeding territory which it defends throughout its stay. Both sexes call and sing throughout the period they remain on the island. We recorded the species on six dates, but apart from hearing them and brief glimpses we struggled until Victora Park, Nuwara Eliya, where one showed fantastically to all on 24th – another perched in a tree at Sigiriya also allowed for ‘scope views.

Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus We had super views of a number of feeding parties from Sinharaja, Bundala and Sigiriya. Endemic subspecies H. p. leggei.

Sri Lanka Woodshrike Tephrodornis affinis ENDEMIC Recorded on just four dates, with the first two at Kalametiya especially well received, though the birds at Tissa feeding on moths were even better. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) proposed the split of the endemic Sri Lanka race from other populations of Common Woodshrike on mainland India.

Ashy Woodswallow Artamus fuscus Noted on four days of travel, with our best views of two (out of a total of 11 birds) on our first day.

Common Iora Aegithina tiphia Recorded on six dates. The males are especially smart and a little variable with some showing all balck or even yellowish backs – leading to some confusion….

Black-headed Cuckoo-shrike Coracina melanoptera Noted on five dates, the first looking across the river from Kithulgala on 18th. Only one adult male seen, at Yala.

Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus Having struggled early in the tour, we suddenly found a few on six dates, the first six at Tissa on 22nd, then several other views of feeding parties were enjoyed.



Orange Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus Noted on eight dates and very much enjoyed as they fed in trees at Kithulgala. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) treat the birds inhabiting Sri Lanka and western India as a species distinct from the more wide-ranging Scarlet Minivet P. speciosus of northern India and southeast Asia.

Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus Recorded on nine dates, the first at Blume Magpie Lodge on 18th. There appeared to be a 50/50 split between birds showing characters of the more richly plumaged nominate cristatus and the greyer and paler lucionensis, which breeds in southern and eastern China and mostly winters in the Philippines.

Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus Very much appreciated by all. Fairly common and widely recorded in wooded areas in both the Wet and Dry Zones throughout the country. Endemic subspecies O. x. ceylonensis.

White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens Seen regularly and in good numbers in the Wet Zone - not recorded from the Dry Zone.

Sri Lanka Crested Drongo Dicrurus lophorinus ENDEMIC A group of ten in a mixed flock at Sinharaja on 18th and then one the next day. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) propose to split the endemic Sri Lanka race from other populations of Greater Racket-tailed Drongo on mainland India and elsewhere.

White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola This attractive species was noted on just two dates at Sigiriya, but they were much admired.

Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea Noted on just three days, the first at Kithulgala and then at Udewattakele. Endemic subspecies H. a. ceylonensis.

Asian Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi We saw three white males and really enjopyed their spectacular flycatching flights – the first two at Kithulgala and Sinharaja were amazing and very much one of the highlights of the tour. Other rufous birds were seen at various sites, especially well at Sigiriya.

Sri Lankan Blue Magpie Urocissa ornata ENDEMIC Seven were recorded at Sinharaja and were notably tame, coming extremely close and are part of a long-term study of this species and have become habituated to humans, from which they solicit food.

House Crow Corvus splendens Widespread and extremely common, but generally absent away from towns and villages, particularly at higher elevations.

Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos Widespread, common and seen daily

Great Tit Parus major Seen really well at Nuwara Eliya, but also at various places on three dates. These grey and white birds are occasionally separated as Cinereous or Asian Grey Tit P. cinereus. The race occurring in Sri Lanka is P. m. mahrattarum.

Sand Martin Riparia riparia One perched on overhead power cables with Barn Swallows at Bundala NP.

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Widely recorded throughout the country and noted on 12 dates. Most were of the east Asian race H. r. gutturalis in which the red throat patch bleeds into the black breast band, but at Bundala NP, at least one bird showed warm chestnut underparts, approaching that of Sri Lankan Swallow, and was presumably of the race H. r. tytleri which breeds in the Lake Baikal region of Siberia but its winter range remains largely unknown.

Hill Swallow Hirundo domicola One at Victoria Park, but then seen really well at Horton Plains and the Glenloch Tea Estate. Formerly included in Pacific Swallow H. tahitica. This species is restricted to Sri Lanka and the Western Ghats region of southern India.

Sri Lankan Swallow Cecropis hyperythra ENDEMIC A very smart and richly coloured swallow and much admired on numerous occasions (seen on nine dates), especially at Kithulgala and Kalametiya. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) propose to split this endemic Sri Lanka race from other populations in mainland India and elsewhere, although the justification for this decision has not yet been published.

Jerdon's Bushlark Mirafra affinis Noted on four days, the first at Kalametiya – whioch called its thin contact call - at least ten at Udewalawe NP on the next day. A recent change in the taxonomy of Mirafra bushlarks resulted in this taxon being split from the Rufous-winged or Bengal Bushlark M. assamica.



Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix grisea At least ten at Bundala NP and then several at Yala NP the next day. A number were singing at Bundala.

Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula Just two squabbling birds seen at close range at Bundala.

Black-capped Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus ENDEMIC A few groups seen well at Kithulgala and Sinharaja. This Sri Lankan endemic taxon is now split by Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) from other populations of Black-headed Yellow or Black-crested Bulbul P. flaviventris occurring on mainland Asia.

Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer Common and widespread throughout, and recorded daily.

Yellow-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus penicillatus ENDEMIC We were looking forward this species and were not disappointed as we had great views of a number of groups, the first at Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya. Fairly common at Horton Plains. Undoubtedly the most attractive of the Sri Lankan bulbuls.

White-browed Bulbul Pycnonotus luteolus This bulbul is largely confined to the Dry Zone, though we saw our first at Sinharaja on 19th; better and more prolonged views at Sigiriya. Endemic subspecies P. l. insulae.

Yellow-browed Bulbul Iole indica Relatively common in the wet areas and we groups of them on five dates. Endemic subspecies I. i. guglielmi.

Square-tailed (Black) Bulbul Hypsipetes ganeesa Noted on just four dates in forests of the Wet Zone often in noisy pairs or small flocks of up to 20 birds. Seen Kithulgala and Sinharaja from 3rd to 7th. The southern Indian and Sri Lankan birds have recently been split from Black Bulbul by Rasmussen & Anderton (2005). Endemic subspecies H. g. humei.

Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Recorded on five dates, from Kalametiya and Bundala to Tissa and Sigiriya. The endemic subspecies C. j. omalurus sounds, as do other eastern forms, distinctly different to those birds breeding in southern Europe.

Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii One or two at Kalametiya then no more until Sigiriya alte in the tour. Endemic subspecies P. h. pectoralis. Jungle Prinia Prinia sylvatica

Heard by Tharanga at Kalametiya, but then only seen well at Sigiriya on 28th, enabling us to appreciate its subtle character and song. Endemic subspecies P. s. valida.

Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis This attractive prinia was seen well at Udewalawe NP, especially at breakfast, and then at Nuwara Eliya near the hotel. Endemic subspecies P. s. brevicauda.

Plain Prinia Prinia inornata Seen on four dates and most common in the Tissa area. One at Sigiriya on 28th. Previously included within Tawny-flanked Prinia P. subflava of Africa, which it not only looks like, but at times calls like. Endemic subspecies P. i. insularis.

Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius Widespread and recorded daily. Endemic subspecies O. s. sutorius occurs in the lowlands and O. s. fernandornis in the hills.

Sri Lankan Bush Warbler Elaphrornis palliseri ENDEMIC An elusive bird for us this year, with just two seen at dawn at Horton Plains. Formerly placed in the genus Bradypterus.

Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus Several in song and a number showing well in Typhus at Bundala NP on 9th. Endemic subspecies A. s. meridionalis.

Blyth’s Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum Noted on five dates, but most often heard than seen. We saw a number well though with perseverance at Udewalawe, and Nuwara Eliya.

Green Warbler Phylloscopus nitidus We were treated to large numbers of calling and occasionally singing birds at a large number of sites and recorded daily, with good views of quite a few – if you wanted to. We made a special note of its Pied Wagtail-like trisyllabic call and heard one bird at Udewattakele that called so much like a Greenish warbler which winters throughout India, that it was hard to believe it was not one (and may have been). Formerly treated as a race of Greenish Warbler P. trochiloides.



Large-billed Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus magnirostris Noted on five dates, but seen well on few occasions, notabley at Kithulgala and Udewattakele. Once known, the call and song of this species, which are regularly given, are quite distinctive.

Brown-capped Babbler Pellorneum fuscocapillum ENDEMIC Singles seen on two dates at the beginning and end of the tour: three at Kithulgala when we were kindly invited into a garden to see them; two at Udewattakele on 27th.

Sri Lankan Scimitar-babbler Pomatorhinus melanurus ENDEMIC Seen on just three dates, notable well on all, at Sinharaja and Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) propose splitting the endemic Sri Lanka races P. m. melanurus of the wet lowlands, and P. m. holdsworthi of the dry lowlands and hills, from populations of Indian Scimitar-babbler P. horsfieldii on mainland India.

Tawny-bellied Babbler Dumetia hyperythra Just three birds, singles at Udewlawe, yala and Sigiriya. Endemic subspecies D. h. phillipsi.

Dark-fronted Babbler Rhopocichla atriceps A very cute and often tame species that responded well to ‘pishing’. Noted at Kithulgala, Sinharaja and Udewattakele. The bill appears pinker than illustrations show. Endemic subspecies R. a. nigrifrons occurs in the Wet Zone and R. a. siccatus in the Dry Zone and hills.

Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense Two at Kalametiya and several at Udewalawe NP. The race C. s. nasalis is endemic to Sri Lanka.

Orange-billed Babbler Turdoides rufescens ENDEMIC It was nice to see several noisy groups in Wet Zone forests at Kithulgala and Sinharaja.

Yellow-billed Babbler Turdoides affinis Noted throughout the tour almost daily. Endemic subspecies T. a. taprobanus is restricted to Sri Lanka where it occurs from sea level to the highest mountains. Formerly considered a race of Jungle Babbler T. striatus of India.

Ashy-headed Laughingthrush Garrulax cinereifrons ENDEMIC Eight seen in a mixed flock at Sinharaja on 19th, including one bird that looked like a youngster with a browner head.

Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosa Noted on nine dates and often in small feeing parties – first at Kithulgala.. Endemic subspecies Z. p. egregia.

Sri Lankan White-eye Zosterops ceylonensis ENDEMIC Relatively common and widespread in the hills, at Huwara Eliya hotel, Victoria Park and Horton Plains, 24th- 26th. Quite different from Oriental.

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis Just one at Sinharaja at the Research Station. The nominate race occurs in Sri Lanka.

Sri Lankan Hill Myna Gracula ptilogenys ENDEMIC Four in flight at Sinharaja on 18th, then three the next day at lunch. This is a species which we often see near the Blue Magpie.

Southern Hill Myna Gracula indica Only seen at the Botanical Gardens, Kandy on 26th, when seven flew around and perched in the heavy rain, braving the lightning.

Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Widespread and abundant. Endemic subspecies A. t. melanosturnus.

White-faced Starling Sturnornis albofrontalis ENDEMIC Two showed in a mixed feeding flock at Sinharaja on 19th, and were a little elusive, but very much appreciated. Sinharaja is the only site on the planet for this elusive starling!!

Rose-coloured Starling Pastor roseus Seen on three dates, with several at Kalametiya, c. 10 at Udewalawe NP and one at Yala.

Brahminy Starling Temenuchus pagodarum Two at Kalametiya on 20th and then four at close range at Yala – very nice so far south in Sri Lanka.

Sri Lankan Whistling Thrush Myophonus blighi ENDEMIC A very elusive species and we had one silhouette in the rain at dusk at Nuwara Eliya on 24th, but then quite simply amazing views at Horton Plains, when one perched in the early morning sun by the pool for us all to admire!

Pied (Ground) Thrush Zoothera wardii This stunning thrush is always one of the highlights of this tour, but sadly the one seen in Victoria Park at Nuwara Eliya, showed itself to a select few. Victoria Park is probably the best site on the planet to see this species.



Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina On two dates, the same superb male showed extremely well in shady undergrowth in the forest at Sigiriya. The race concerned is Z. c. citrina and is different to those seen in the tiger resrves of central and northern India in that they lack the dark line down the face.

Spot-winged Thrush Zoothera spiloptera ENDEMIC Singles at Kithulgala and at at the park entrance, Sinharaja.

Sri Lankan Scaly Thrush Zoothera imbricata This species maintains its status as Sri Lanka’s most elusive endemic. Having spent a considerable time looking, Tharanga found one at Sinharaja, but sadly apart from hearing it the rest of the group could not see it. Close but no cigar… We searched other sites at length and had good views of leaf litter!

Indian Blackbird Turdus simillimus A good number were seen by the entrance gate at Horton Plains on 12th, including a pair with two well-grown young. These birds differ greatly from Eurasian Blackbird T. merula, with bright orange-red legs and bill, and a blue-grey plumage shared by both sexes, though the female is a little duller. Together with the birds inhabiting southern India, now recognised a distinct species T. simillimus. Birds in Sri Lanka are of the endemic subspecies T. s. kinnisii.

Indian Blue Robin Luscinia brunnea An adult male seen at Sinharaja showed to only three observers; but luckily a fine male was also found at Victoria Park on two dates, with two on our second visit. This species is a winter visitor to Sri Lanka from the forests of the Himalayas and western China.

Oriental Magpie-robin Copsychus saularis Widespread throughout and recorded almost every day.

White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus A number of males showed well at Udewattakele, though the tails looked a little ragged – remember the nice song. Endemic subspecies C. m. leggei.

Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata One at Kalametiya, five at least at Udewalawe the following day and several at Yala NP. Also seen well on the rocks at Sigiriya. Endemic subspecies S. f. leucoptera.

Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata At least two pairs were noted around the hotel at Nuwara Eliya, then at least ten at Horton Plains. Endemic subspecies S. c. atrata in which the female is a lot darker than in other forms.

Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica Seen on six dates, but in small numbers – two at Tissa and the Botanical Gardens, Kandy, being the highest day totals. A winter visitor from northern Asia.

Brown-breasted Flycatcher Muscicapa muttui Noted on five dates and in similar numbers. A smart flycatcher with rich plumage (but not especially brown breast), pale legs and feet. In contrast to the previous species, which frequents the mid to upper storey, this subtly plumaged winter visitor usually perches close to the ground.

Kashmir Flycatcher Ficedula subrubra The adult male in Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya was seen on two dates and it was exciting to watch this species at close range as it called and fed close to the ground – simply stunning and a highlight fro many. It breeds in the northwestern Himalayas, centred on Kashmir, and winters exclusively in the highlands of Sri Lanka. Victoria Park is one of the best (if not THE best) sites anywhere to see this charismatic flycatcher.

Dull-blue Flycatcher Eumyias sordida ENDEMIC The two at Horton Plains were seen well and it is easy to see where it gets its name – but still subtly smart.

Tickell's Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae Regularly heard but only occasionally glimpsed at Kithulgala and Sinharaja, so it was good to finally get really good views at Udewattakele and Sigiriya. Endemic subspecies C. t. jerdoni.

Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis Up to ten in a mixed flock at Tissa fed at close range and were our first, then others showed well at Sigiriya. Confusingly, the Sri Lankan and Peninsular Indian races of Blue-winged Leafbird lack blue wings, and are sometimes treated as a distinct species, Jerdon’s Leafbird. Endemic subspecies C. c. jerdoni.

Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons Seen really well in the flowering tree by the reaturant at Kithulgala and on six subsequent dates.

Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile Elusive and seen only on two occasions – at Bundala and Yala.



Legge's Flowerpecker Dicaeum vincens ENDEMIC This species was much sought at Sinharaja and we were a little disappointed with slightly distant tree-top views on 19th, however all was forgotten when a fine male fed at very close range at Blue Magpie Lodge the next day.

Pale-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrorhynchos Widely recorded throughout Sri Lanka and seen or heard most days. The race D. e. ceylonensis is endemic to Sri Lanka.

Purple-rumped Sunbird Leptocoma zeylonica Seen daily throughout the tour, with a fine male preening at Kithulgala much admired. Endemic subspecies L. z. zeylonica.

Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus Seen infrequently in drier areas, our first at Kalametiya – seen on seven dates.

Loten's Sunbird Cinnyris lotenia It was great to see this so well at Kithulgala on our first day and on eight subsequent days, though we did not see abreeding male until the Dry Zone. Endemic subspecies C. l. lotenia.

House Sparrow Passer [domesticus] indicus Seen on just seven dates, best at Nuwara Eliya. Those in India and elsewhere in Asia are treated by some authorities as a distinct species, Indian Sparrow Passer indicus.

Streaked Weaver Ploceus manyar A splendid male perched briefly in atree top at Sinharaja on 28th and the female/immature weavers we saw flying around at the same site were almost certainly this species.

Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus Several male and females attending nests at Tissa tank and a few seen at Yala NP later the same day. These birds were beginning to attain their bright breeding plumage and we liked their finely woven nests.

Indian Silverbill Euodice malabarica Just two at Bundala and Yala on 22nd and 23rd.

White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata Seen on nine dates, commonly in cultivation and rice fields from Kithulgala to Sigiriya.

Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata Widely recorded in small numbers.

Black-throated Munia Lonchura kelaarti Elusive and we were grateful for two to fly into a tree at Udewattakele, just when we thought we had missed them.

Black-headed Munia Lonchura malacca Seen on six dates, this handsome munia showed well especially at Tissa.

Forest Wagtail Dendronanthus indicus Always a delight to see, it was lovely to get good views of at least three at Victoria Park in Nuwara Eliya.

Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava We saw birds on four dates, with one at Kalametiya the first. A very grey-and-white bird at Udewalawe had a buzzy call like eastern birds tschutschensis but may have simply been of the race beema. Others at Tissa and Yala.

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Noted on seven dates at five locations ranging from the river at Kithulgala to the stream in Victoria Park at Nuwara Eliya.

Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus Seen on six dates in small numbers, the best views probably at Kalametiya, Udewalawe and Nuwara Eliya. Birds were a little variable with some paler anmd sandy, but in the hills more richly coloured above and below – some seeing quite unifrom and grey above like Long-billed Pipit. The form occurring in Sri Lanka is A. r. malayanus..

Blyth’s Pipit Anthus godlewskii Seen on two dates and only three or birds seen: at Udewalawe NP and Bundala.

LIST OF MAMMALS

A simple list following Duff, A, and Lawson, A. (2004) Mammals of the World: A checklist. A&C Black, London. Black-naped Hare Lepus nigricollis Sri Lankan Giant Squirrel Rafula macroura Layard’s Palm Squirrel Funambulus layardi



Indian Palm Squirrel Funambulus palmarum Dusky Striped Squirrel Funambulus sublineatus (=Dusky Palm Squirrel) Short-tailed Mongoose Herpestes brachyurus Indian Grey Mongoose Herpestes edwardsii Ruddy Mongoose Herpestes smithii Golden Jackal Canis aureus Leopard Panthera pardus Indian Flying Fox Pteropus giganteus Tufted Grey Langur Presbytis entellus (= Common Langur) Purple-faced Leaf Monkey Presbytis vetulus vetulus Bear Monkey Presbytis vetulus senex Toque Macaque Macaca sinica Wild Boar Sus scrofa Sambar Cervus unicolor Spotted Deer Axis axis (Axis or Chital) Water Buffalo Bubakus bubalis Indian Elephant Elephas maximus

REPTILES AND AMPHIBIANS The following species were identified (mostly by Tharanga!) during the tour. Mugger Crocodylus palustris Southern House Gecko Hemidactylus frenatus Green Garden (Forest) Lizard Calotes calotes Common Garden Lizard Calotes versicolor Black-lipped Lizard Calotes nigrilabris Sri Lanka Kangaroo Lizard Otocryptis wiegmanni Rhino-horned Lizard Ceratophora stoddartii Common Indian Monitor Varanus bengalensis Water Monitor Varanus salvator Rat Snake Ptyas mucosus Hump-nosed Pit Viper Hypnale hypnale Hard-shelled terrapin sp. Soft-shelled terrapin sp. BUTTERFLIES Thanks go to Tharanga for the identification of so many of Sri Lanka’s beautiful butterflies, and to everyone else who helped locate and identify these stunning insects with their wonderfully outlandish names. Danaidae Plain Tiger Danaus chrysippus Common Tiger Danaus genutia Blue Glassy Tiger Danaus similis Common Indian Crow Euploea core Sri Lanka Tree Nymph Idea iasonia Satyridae Nigger Orsotriaena medus Nymphalidae Common Sailor Neptis hylas Peacock Pansy Precis almana Cruiser Vindula erota Clipper Parthenos sylvia



Pieridae Common Grass Yellow Eurema hecabe Common Jezebel Delias eucharis Lemon Emigrant Catopsilia Pomona Small Salmon Arab Colotis amata Psyche Leptosia nina nina Papillionidae Blue Mormon Papilio polymnestor Common Birdwing Troides darsius Common Rose Pachliopta aristolochiae Crimson Rose Pachliopta hector Common Jezebel Delias eucharis

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Sri Lanka Nov 2012 TR BS CK - Limosa Holidays