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Limosa Holidays & Travelling Naturalist Trip Report Sri Lanka: Jewel of the Indian Ocean Thu 2nd-Thu 16th February 2012 1 © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist ______________________________________________________________________________ Photos (clockwise, from top left): Leopard at Yala National Park © Peter Kennerley/Limosa • Close encounter with Serendib Scops Owl © Peter Kennerley/Limosa • The exotic-looking Pheasant-tailed Jacana is a common sight in lowland wetlands © Peter Kennerley/Limosa • Male Sri Lankan Frogmouth on its nest (containing at least one well-grown youngster) at Kitulgala © Peter Kennerley/Limosa Black Bittern in flight at Tissa © tour participant Jeffrey Wheatley • Black-rumped Flameback - endemic subspecies D. b. psarodes shows a red, rather than golden orange, wings and mantle © tour participant Chris Pearce report compiled by tour leader: Peter Kennerley _____________________________________________________________________________

Sri Lanka, Feb 2012 tour report PK CK - Limosa Holidays Lanka, Feb 2012... · Sri Lankan ornithologist, Tharanga Herath, is a remarkable leader, ... Jack Hawkins, William Holden and

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Limosa Holidays & Travelling Naturalist Trip Report

Sri Lanka: Jewel of the Indian Ocean Thu 2nd-Thu 16th February 2012

1 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

______________________________________________________________________________

Photos (clockwise, from top left): Leopard at Yala National Park © Peter Kennerley/Limosa • Close encounter with Serendib Scops Owl © Peter Kennerley/Limosa • The exotic-looking Pheasant-tailed Jacana is a common sight in lowland wetlands © Peter Kennerley/Limosa • Male Sri Lankan Frogmouth on its nest (containing at least one well-grown youngster) at Kitulgala © Peter Kennerley/Limosa • Black Bittern in flight at Tissa © tour participant Jeffrey Wheatley • Black-rumped Flameback - endemic subspecies D. b. psarodes shows a red, rather than golden orange, wings and mantle © tour participant Chris Pearce

report compiled by tour leader: Peter Kennerley

_____________________________________________________________________________

Trip Report: Sri Lanka, 2-16 February 2012

2 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Trip Diary Tour Leaders: Peter Kennerley & Tharanga Herath with John Clark & Mary Ward-Jackson, Chris & Helen Pearce, Peter & Georgina Pharaoh, and Jeffrey & Jean Wheatley Sri Lanka is an extremely beautiful island and a safe country to visit. Its friendly, smiling people warmly welcome us wherever we go, and a well-established tourist infrastructure enables birders to visit prime habitats whilst staying in some extremely nice hotels. Sri Lankan food is terrific, never truly hot but delicately flavoured with oriental spices. Limosa’s tours to Sri Lanka focus on the southern half of the island, the lush forests of the 'Wet Zone' being home to most of the endemic birds, while the Dry Zone and montane forests bring in a wealth of characteristically southern Indian species, yet more endemics, and support an exciting array of winter visitors, often in large numbers. Sri Lankan ornithologist, Tharanga Herath, is a remarkable leader, and thanks to his intimate knowledge of the island and its bird communities, we were able to visit a wide variety of great birding locations from coastal wetlands to scrubby grasslands, tropical rainforest to cooler montane forests - and see most of Sri Lanka’s special birds. Culture and leisure activities were not neglected either, with an opportunity to see a working tea factory, and an evening visit to the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy adding a religious slant. With some splendid hotels, great food and an array of outstanding birds and exciting wildlife experiences, Sri Lanka certainly lives up to expectations and makes this one of Asian’s outstanding birding and wildlife watching destinations. For the first time since 2006, Limosa returned to the southeast of the island and visited the national parks of Bundala and Yala. This wonderful area had been off limits due to restrictions imposed by the recent civil war, but with stability returning we were once again able to enjoy the wildlife of this outstanding region. We began our exploration of this region with a safari to Bundala National Park and RAMSAR site, where a recently opened visitors’ centre and viewing platform overlooked a tank brimming with wetland birds. Literally thousands of Whiskered Terns hungrily hawked for insects over the lake and amongst them we were treated to a sprinkling of White-winged Black Terns, and their larger relatives, Caspian and Gull-billed Terns. Along the reed edges diminutive Yellow Bitterns stealthy waited, ready to snatch any passing tiddlers, while towering Purple and Grey Herons stalked the deeper waters, which were dotted with Moorhens, Little Grebes, Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, Purple Swamphens and a handful of Coots – quite a scarce bird here. The lagoons and saltpans are Bundala’s crowning glory, with thousands of wintering shorebirds probing the mud or feeding on brine shrimps, while gulls and terns patrolled overhead and rested in their hundreds on the bunds. Little Stints, Curlew Sandpipers and Lesser Sandplovers took centre stage, but very quickly we were picking out Greater Sandplovers amongst the abundant Lessers, and Terek, Marsh and Broad-billed Sandpipers amongst the teeming throngs. A party of Small Pratincoles running, displaying and skimming over the pans was a real joy, as we don’t see these elsewhere in Sri Lanka. Perhaps the most unexpected bird we encountered here was a Ringed Plover with a group of Kentish. Along the muddy edges of the mangrove-lined creeks we soon found several Striated Herons, and, while doing so, a dark-morph Reef Egret walked into view – this is something of a rarity here but this individual had been around for some time and was a bird we had been hoping to see. Of the terns, we quickly picked out Greater and Lesser Crested Terns amongst the roosting Caspians and Gull-billed, and flick-winged Little Terns numbered into the hundreds. Tissa is central to some wonderful birding and we enjoyed visits to the large tanks at Debarawewa and Tissa which abounded with birds, with highlights such as White-bellied and Grey-headed Fish Eagles floating overhead while on the tanks we watched flotillas of Lesser Whistling Ducks and Cotton Pygmy Geese. A visit to a nearby palm plantation revealed a Jungle Owlet in residence, while a Loten’s Sunbird sitting in its dangling nest give an insight into avian architecture and design to thwart the attentions of predators. The undoubted highlight at Tissa was following a couple of chaps on a moped through the narrow lanes of Debarawewa on the promise of a Brown Fish Owl. Long after we gave up on thoughts that they were serious, they finally came to a halt and we followed them down narrow ginnels and alleys until we came to a small field ... and behold, there really was a Brown Fish Owl, actually standing by a small pool in broad daylight!! Just how lucky was that? Eventually, under the pressure of numbers it flew into an adjacent tree but still continued to give great views.

Trip Report: Sri Lanka, 2-16 February 2012

3 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

And so to Yala NP, a treat best savoured on the very last afternoon. The days of the old peaceful, tranquil Yala in the wake of the tsunami are now long gone, to be replaced by something akin to the RAC rally. But Yala still remains the best place to see Leopard in Sri Lanka, so if this is your ambition, then a visit to Yala is a must. We knew this, but so do all the tourists who now visit the island in ever-increasing numbers. Tranquillity has been replaced by the internal combustion engine, and roadside birding has become extremely difficult. But, hey-ho, if you want to see Leopard this is what it takes, so off we went. Our first halt was for a Marshall’s Iora which Tharanga expertly heard whilst we were driving. Very quickly we were at the head of a traffic jam, with us blocking the road and the rest waiting impatiently to roar past. Still, the views of this newly discovered breeding resident were good and it was a new bird for all. Then it was pedal to the metal as we joined the Leopard bonanza. And we thought we had it bad – we had no idea how lucky we were - you should have seen the jamboree the late comers joined! Despite the melee, we enjoyed great and prolonged views of two drowsing Leopards, just yards apart. After this we rounded the day off with several Hoopoes, a couple of Muggers and, at dusk, a handful of Indian Nightjars. But before we even reached this region we had already been treated to some fantastic birds which will long linger as fond memories. We spent two days at Kitulgula, home to many of Sri Lanka’s endemic Wet Zone birds, which allowed ample time to track down a good cross section of typical forest specialities. Our delightful hotel, which overlooks the Kelani River, became famous as the location for the filming of ‘Bridge on the River Kwai’. Even today, photographs of Alec Guinness, Jack Hawkins, William Holden and their fellow co-stars decorate the walls. Shortly after arriving at the hotel we enjoyed our first birding with flocks of the endemic Layard’s Parakeets and our first Orange-billed Babblers and Yellow-browed Bulbuls. From the viewpoint we encountered Sri Lankan Green Pigeons, Sri Lankan Hanging Parrots, several gorgeous Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters coming into their evening roost, numerous Indian Swiftlets scythed overhead and a Crested Treeswift that showed well in a bare tree. Endemic Yellow-fronted and Crimson-fronted Barbets called, and Black-hooded Oriole, White-bellied Drongo, White-browed Fantail, Common Tailorbird, noisy parties of Yellow-billed Babblers and a showy Oriental Magpie Robin performed well, too. But it is the two endemic owls which are the jewel in Kitulgula’s crown, and once again we weren’t disappointed - although in both cases we were getting slightly twitchy! For the tenth successive tour we have successfully found Serendib Scops Owl and shown it to the entire group. This year it was down to Tharanga’s persistence. After a river crossing in a dug-out canoe followed by a short walk through the forest, we were all enjoying wonderful scope views of this diminutive fulvous-toned owl, sitting motionless in its daytime roost. What an exquisite bird!! And well worth the effort involved to reach it. Unusually, Chestnut-backed Owlet also gave us the run-around, probably because the birds were nesting. We knew where the nest hole was; problem was that the bird was inside the hole. Patience prevailed, then, with the morning mist, dissipated and we bid farewell to the tree and our chances. Just after we left, thankfully, we received a phone call telling us the bird had reappeared so we dashed back... and there it was, peering down at us from the fronds of a palm. Usually this is such an easy bird to see, but this time we could so easily have missed out. In a tea plantation we were kindly shown a male Sri Lankan Frogmouth (males are grey, females rusty-brown) sitting on its nest, which housed a single large chick. But our most unexpected bird at Kitulgula was also new to Sri Lanka – Ashy Minivet, a bird which breeds in northeast China and winters in southeast Asia. But here was one with a flock of Orange Minivets, and seen well by several of our group for a couple of minutes. There was no mistaking it: we even saw the grey rump, thus eliminating the potentially confusing brown-rumped Swinhoe’s Minivet. Next came Sinharaja, a World Heritage site with last remnants of Sri Lanka’s once extensive rainforest, and home to most of the endemic birds as well as many of the commoner birds typical of Sri Lanka’s Wet Zone forest. Most of our target birds travel in mixed feeding flocks, which means is that for long periods there are very few birds to see. But when a flock arrives, then birds can be everywhere. Very quickly we were treated to another Sri Lankan Frogmouth, this time a female, giving a second bite of the cherry for those who missed the Kitulgula male. During our visit to the reserve we found flocks in which noisy Ashy-headed Laughingthrushes and Orange-billed Babblers predominated, but by carefully working our way through them we enjoyed good looks at several Sri Lankan Crested Drongos and Malabar Trogons, as well as approachable Sri Lankan Blue Magpies, and Red-faced Malkohas which played peek-a boo with us as they peered down from the canopy. While in the bare trees by the Research Station, White-faced Starlings and a pair of Crested Goshawks showed to perfection. But two birds really stood out from the rest. The first was Green-billed Coucal, a bird which eluded us at Kitulgula, but here we enjoyed good views of a pair lurking in thick cover. Sinharaja is also the best place to see Sri Lankan Spurfowl, one of the most elusive of the island’s endemics. In recent years we’ve enjoyed good looks at birds at a regular “stake-out” so we were hopeful

Trip Report: Sri Lanka, 2-16 February 2012

4 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

of success. And successful we were. Our first party went in mid-afternoon, rarely the best time to start to search for this elusive lurker, but very quickly we found a pair which gave prolonged and extraordinarily close views. Buoyed by this success, the afternoon doubters went in the following morning and were equally lucky, with everyone seeing at least one bird. We could not have asked for more from Sinharaja. Our safari drive through Udewalawe National Park is always a great way to spend the morning, and with its many large mammals this is undoubtedly one of the highlights of this tour. We soon encountered our first Indian Elephants – it is always impressive to see these huge mammals at such close quarters. Birds abounded here, with raptors providing many of the highlights: Crested Hawk Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Grey-headed Fish Eagle, Black-winged Kite, Pallid Harrier, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Kestrel etc. During our drive in the 4x4s through the grasslands, we watched flocks of Scaly-breasted and Black-headed Munias, Indian Silverbills, Grey-breasted, Ashy and Plain Prinias, and a couple of Yellow-eyed Babblers. Squadrons of Malabar Pied Hornbills flapped and glided from tree to tree, flocks of Orange-breasted Green Pigeons sat up, and both Jacobin and Grey-bellied Cuckoos (including a couple of hepatic females) showed well. We enjoyed our picnic breakfast overlooking the reservoir with huge numbers of wetland birds, among them Spot-billed Pelicans, Painted Storks, Great Cormorants, and many, many herons and egrets. Here we picked out a Lesser Adjutant amongst the more numerous Painted Storks, and a distant Osprey sitting in a bare tree was unexpected. As we followed the track we surprised three Barred Buttonquails which scurried away into cover but paused long enough to be seen by most. Several Blyth’s Pipits gave away their identity by calling loudly as they flew; fortunately they are generally quite vocal and readily separated by their distinctive calls, quite unlike that hard chipping call given by Paddyfield Pipit. Closer to the southern coast we spent a most pleasant afternoon birding in the scrub and wetlands of the Kalametiya Sanctuary. In complete contrast to the rain forest, birds here were abundant and easily seen, giving a massive boost to our bird list and including many waders and wetland species. Highlights included numerous herons, egrets, terns, several Great Thick-knees and Yellow-wattled Lapwings. A huge flock of Black-tailed Godwits, estimated to be in the region of 5,000 birds, waded in the shallows of the lagoon and occasionally got up and flew a circuit before descending to form a tightly packed swarm. The short grasslands also held many waders, mostly Lesser Sandplovers but with them a few Pacific Golden Plovers, and a scattering of Turnstones, Redshanks, Marsh Sandpipers and Greenshanks. As the sun dipped towards the horizon we finally reached the Indian Ocean where many Crested Terns loafed on offshore rocks or flew lazily over the ocean. En route to Nuwara Eliya, the former hill station situated at 2,000 m on Sri Lanka’s cool highlands, nestling by lakeside waters set amidst tea plantations, we paused at the Surrey Tea Estate where a pair of Brown Wood Owls allowed great views for most, a Brown-capped Babbler popped into the open and a Common Hawk Cuckoo gave its piercing ‘brain-fever’ call, becoming ever more shrill as it reached its climax. It was here that we glimpsed our first Dull-blue Flycatcher and Grey-headed Canary-flycatchers, both of which we would encounter again in the coming days. In Nuwara Eliya our first stop was at the town’s renown Victoria Park, home to winter visitors and montane endemics, and in just a few short hours we added Yellow-eared Bulbuls and Sri Lankan White-eyes, a couple of young male Kashmir Flycatchers, a swaggering Forest Wagtail that paused by the stream, a stunningly bedazzling male Indian Blue Robin which flaunted himself to all comers and, best of all, who will ever forget that male Pied Thrush which showed superbly as it fed in the stream? No visit to the highlands would be complete without an early start to Horton Plains! This attractive region encompasses a patchwork landscape of wooded hillsides and grassy plains, with distant views of the distinctive Adam’s Peak. We reached the entrance just after 05.30am and were rewarded with outstanding views of Indian Blackbirds feeding by the roadside – they always seem to vanish after sunrise. As dawn broke, we were treated to a gloriously clear and calm day, just what we wanted for this very special place where mist, rain and wind are a very real possibility. As always, Yellow-eared Bulbuls and Sri Lankan White-eyes were conspicuous, but it was Sri Lanka’s notoriously elusive Whistling Thrush that we hoped to see. We made our way to the Arrenga Pool, traditional home to its namesake, the Arrenga (or Sri Lankan Whistling Thrush), and a site where we often encounter this almost mythical beast. Reputed to be the most difficult of all Sri Lanka’s endemics to find and see well, today it fully lived up to its reputation. Although it called on several occasions, it was left to Helen to see a male and John to glimpse the female. Such is the unpredictability of birding. But while we searched we enjoyed prolonged views of the skulking Sri Lanka Bush Warbler and several wintering Green Warblers, here at eye level rather than the neck-breaking upper canopy of the Wet Zone climax forest. Along the road a couple of Dull-blue Flycatchers flitted and Sri Lanka Wood Pigeons moaned incessantly until a pair final revealed themselves to perfection and prolonged views. Of the elusive Scaly Thrush, only Tharanga and Peter P. glimpsed one in a bamboo

Trip Report: Sri Lanka, 2-16 February 2012

5 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

thicket, for the rest of our group we were left chasing shadows. By mid-morning we moved on to the grasslands where dapper Pied Bushchats showed nicely atop the low bushes and grass tussocks, Zitting Cisticolas zitted, Himalayan Buzzards and Oriental Honey Buzzards drifted overhead, a pair of Hill Swallows attended their nests, and herds of Sambar grazed the grasslands. Our next destination was Kandy, but we paused briefly along the way at another tea factory. This was not just for a quick cuppa - it is also a reliable site for Hill Swallow, which again showed to perfection, flittering overhead and perching beside their mud-cup nests. Never a dull moment at the tea factory and we all left laden down with tea of all shapes and tastes. The Peradeniya Botanical Gardens in Kandy are always interesting, and we spent much of the afternoon exploring the extensive grounds. Highlights included Southern Hill Myna, Rose-ringed Parakeets, Crimson-fronted and Brown-headed Barbets, and Orange Minivet. Mammals here included numerous Toque Macaques, and the roost of Indian Flying Foxes remained as impressive as ever. In the evening we arranged a visit to the Temple of the Tooth, which all enjoyed. Across the city we spent a morning at the Udewattekele Royal Forest, a haven of tranquillity on the edge of the bustling metropolis. Square-tailed Bulbuls squawked overhead and one lead us to its nest, while nearby a couple of Black-naped Monarchs and a lovely long-tailed white male Paradise Flycatcher lead us on a merry dance. The undoubted highlight here, if not of the entire trip, was a pair of jewel-like Oriental Dwarf Kingfishers which sat in full view and treated us to prolonged scope views as they shone in the gloomy understorey. Our final destination was Sigiriya, usually a delightful haven of peace and tranquillity, full of birds, and dominated by the huge sedimentary rock which forms the centrepiece of this World Heritage Site. But on this visit, sadly the sound of chain saws felling the lovely forest adjacent to our hotel dominated. No longer will we be able to wander out from the hotel and marvel at the likes of Indian Pitta and Orange-headed Ground Thrush just a stones-throw from our rooms. We did catch up with both of these gems nearby, but it was sad to watch such wonderful forest being put to the chain saw. A gentle stroll around the perimeter of old city led us to a party of Sri Lankan Wood-shrikes, a Jungle Prinia and yet more Brown Shrikes – all of the race lucionensis. With dusk approaching we visited “Site X”, always a good bet for some of the more exciting inhabitants of the forest floor and the occasional night bird. As dusk fell, we heard a distant Spot-bellied Eagle Owl which remained stubbornly immobile, followed by a calling Jerdon’s Nightjar which was seen briefly in the torch beam as it gave us a couple of fly pasts. Then the heavens opened yet again; this had becoming something of a joke in the Dry Zone in the dry season! But it put paid to the rest of our birding for the day, leaving us no choice but to return to the hotel. And so onto the coast and our last day in Sri Lanka. With our birding almost over, we had but to return to the coast and our final hotel. It was here that we said farewell to Peter and Georgina who were leaving us to spend a few days in Marissa in search of Blue Whales. Next to leave our group were Jeffrey and Jean, who were looking forward spending a further two weeks revisiting many of the locations we’d spent time in, but at a more leisurely pace on a cultural tour. The rest of us said our farewells and another Limosa tour to this island paradise came to a satisfactory conclusion. We all enjoyed a fantastic tour and between us we had seen or heard all of Sri Lanka’s 33 currently recognised endemic bird species. We also encountered a wealth of wintering birds that featured high on everyone’s most-wanted list, including Indian Pitta, Kashmir Flycatcher and Pied and Orange-headed Thrushes, together with masses of shorebirds and terns which added variety, quality and quantity to our experience. By the end, we had recorded a very respectable 246 bird species. No two years are the same, and the birds and our experiences with them change from year to year. We stayed at some great hotels, with welcoming and friendly people, and enjoy superb food. I look forward to returning again soon. My thanks go to Baur’s for making such smooth arrangements, to Tharanga our local leader for finding so many birds, without whose expertise our bird list and experiences would be only a fraction of what they were. Our driver, Bandara, and his mate, Tharanga 2, looked after us extremely well and drove us with care and consideration throughout. And a big thank you to everyone who made it such a pleasure and privilege to lead this tour.

Peter Kennerley

Trip Report: Sri Lanka, 2-16 February 2012

6 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

OUTLINE ITINERARY 2nd February: Depart London for Colombo. 3rd February: AM Arrive Colombo, drive to Kitulgula, PM Kitulgula viewpoint 4th February: All day Kitulgula 5th February: Early AM Kitulgula, then drive to Sinharaja via Ratnapura 6th February: Full day Sinharaja 7th February: AM Sinharaja, PM drive to Embilimpitiya 8th February: AM Udewalawe NP, PM Kalametiya to dusk, drive to Tissa 9th February: AM Bundala NP, PM Tissa and Debarawewa tanks 10th February: AM Tissa and Debarawewa, PM Yala NP 11th February: AM drive to Nuwara Eliya, PM Victoria Park 12th February: AM Horton Plains, PM Haggala 13th February: Early AM Bomurella, drive to Kandy. PM Peradeniya Botanical Gardens 14th February: AM Udewattekele Forest Reserve, PM drive to Sigiriya, birding to dusk 15th February: AM Sigiriya, PM drive to Negombo 16th February: Return to London.

ANNOTATED LIST OF BIRDS

(A total of 246 species recorded by the group)

The sequence adopted here generally follows Dickinson (2003) The Howard & Moore Complete Checklist of the Birds of the World’, but modified to include some taxonomic revisions proposed by Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) Birds of South Asia, which proposes that a further nine endemic races should be elevated to species status, together with the splitting of many races which breed in Sri Lanka and elsewhere in the Indian subcontinent from species occurring elsewhere. Sri Lankan Spurfowl Galloperdix bicalcarata ENDEMIC

Occasionally heard calling in the forest at Sinharaja on 6th and 7th. Some of the group attempted to see our regular pair on 6th and these birds responded extremely well to a sound recording giving great views for all present. Those who missed them the previous day were rewarded with brief views of the same pair on 7th, while those who opted for the Scaly Thrush excursion encountered two pairs along the jeep track early on 7th.

Sri Lanka Junglefowl Gallus lafayetti ENDEMIC Recorded on ten dates in both the Wet and Dry Zones. Seen or heard at Kitulgula, Sinharaja, and Horton Plains in the Wet Zone, and at Udewalawe, Kalametiya, Bundala, Yala and Sigiriya in the Dry Zone. Those ridiculously tame birds usually at Sinharaja were nowhere to be found this time. Who had chicken for dinner?...

Indian Peafowl Pavo cristata Common in dry wooded grasslands at Udewalawe, Kalametiya, Bundala and Yala.

Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica Common on the larger wetlands at Kalametiya, Bundala and Yala NPs, and on tanks at Tissa and Debarawewa, with a high of 100+ at Bundala on 9th. Also two at Sigiriya on 14th.

Cotton Pygmy-goose Nettapus coromandelianus These diminutive geese can sometimes be difficult to find, but this was not the case this year. Nine on Debarawewa tank on 9th were followed by one at Tissa tank on 10th and seven at Sigiriya on 14th.

Garganey Anas querquedula At least ten at Kalametiya on 8th and a similar number at Bundala NP the following day. Surprisingly scarce this year. Garganey are often one of the last ducks to emerge from eclipse plumage but by this date the males were looking rather splendid.

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Also surprisingly scarce. One at Kalametiya on 8th, two at Debarawewa tank on 9th and one at Tissa tank on 10th.

Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala Small numbers noted at Udewalawe NP and Kalametiya on 8th, Bundala NP on 9th and Yala NP on 10th, the latter hosting 20+ birds, the highest number seen.

Trip Report: Sri Lanka, 2-16 February 2012

7 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans Fairly widespread in small numbers and noted on seven dates at several sites; Kitulgula, Kalametiya, throughout the Tissa region including Bundala and Yala NPs, and Sigiriya. Most numerous at Tissa and Debarawewa tanks with 15+ noted on 9th.

Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus One at Udewalawe NP on 8th was the only sighting.

Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephala A widespread and fairly common species, frequently seen feeding in roadside paddy, and noted on eight dates. Distribution similar to that of Asian Openbill but generally more numerous. Highest numbers seen at Bundala NP with 50+ there on 9th.

Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus A party of 12 landed in wet fields along the Bundala NP access road on 9th. Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia

One feeding in roadside paddy en route from Negombo to Kitulgula on 3rd. Thereafter, six at Kalametiya on 8th, 30+ at Bundala NP and four at Debarawewa tank on 9th, and six at Yala NP on 10th.

Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis At least four at Bundala NP and one at Debarawewa tank on 9th, followed by one at Tissa tank on 10th.

Black Bittern Dupetor flavicollis Two at Tissa tank on 10th.

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Six or more distant birds roosting in bushes by the lake at the hotel at Embilimpitiya on 7th, 20+ at Udewalawe NP on 8th and one at Debarawewa tank on 9th.

Striated Heron Butorides striata One at Kalametiya on 8th, followed by four at Bundala NP on 9th.

Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii Common, widespread and seen most days, Occurs in any open, damp habitat.

Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus Widespread and abundant, occurring in wetlands and open country throughout, and seen daily. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) recommend this taxon is treated as a species distinct from Cattle Egret B. ibis of Europe and Africa.

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Small numbers noted at Embilimpitiya, Udewalawe, Kalametiya, Bundala, Yala and throughout the Tissa region. Most numerous and Bundala NP with 20+ noted there on 9th.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea One feeding in roadside paddy en route from Negombo to Kitulgula on 3rd. Otherwise, the distribution was broadly similar to that of Grey Heron, but generally more numerous, especially on the larger tanks with abundant emergent vegetation.

Great White Egret Ardea alba Distribution similar to that of Purple Heron, with birds widely recorded on six dates. Particularly numerous at Bundala NP, where 40+ birds present on 9th. Occasionally seen with other egrets in roadside rice paddy.

Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia Quite straightforward when you get your eye in. After a few rather unsatisfactory birds seen from the moving bus it was pleasing to finally obtain good looks at this subtly attractive egret at Udewalawe NP and Kalametiya on 8th. Noted on six dates with 10+ at Bundala being the highest site count.

Western Reef Egret Egretta gularis A dark morph at Bundala on 9th was a surprise. This species is extremely rare in the south and pretty scarce in the north. However, this individual had been present for some time and Tharanga had seen it on several occasions. An egret with a greyish plumage but white head and neck, but with the structure of Little Egret was also seen at Bundala on 9th. This may have been a hybrid between Little and Western Reef Egrets, or a grey morph Little Egret – similar birds are occasionally seen in Hong Kong where Western Reef Egret does not occur.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta Common and widely recorded.

Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis Widespread and numerous, particularly in the southeast, and probably more readily seen in Sri Lanka than elsewhere. At least 15 on the lake at Embilimpitiya on 7th, 20+ at Udewalawe NP on 8th, 30+ at Bundala NP on 9th and 15+ at Yala NP on 10th, plus occasional birds seen in flight and on the various tanks throughout the Tissa region.

Trip Report: Sri Lanka, 2-16 February 2012

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Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger Common, widely recorded throughout the island and seen daily with the exception of 6th at Sinharaja.

Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis Much less widespread than Little Cormorant and significantly less numerous. A group of 100+ birds in bushes by the lake at Embilimpitiya on 7th, many in breeding plumage, appeared to be nesting there. Thereafter, 40+ at Bundala NP, and up to ten at Debarawewa and Tissa tanks on 9th and 10th.

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Six on the lake at Embilimpitiya on 7th, 20+ Udewalawe on 8th including several birds sitting on nests, and two at Bundala on 9th.

Darter Anhinga melanogaster Small numbers seen at Embilimpitiya, Udewalawe NP, Kalametiya, Bundala, Yala and tanks throughout the Tissa region. Highest numbers noted at Debarawewa tank on 9th. Also two at Sigiriya on 14th. In Asia, A. melanogaster is usually treated as a polytypic species which includes the nominate form that occurs in Asia, together with both African A. (m.) rufa and Australian Darters A. (m.) novaehollandiae.

Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Two at Udewalawe NP on 8th and one at Tissa tank on 9th. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus

An adult in flight over the valley by the waterfall at Ella where we stopped for breakfast on 11th. Birds breeding in Sri Lanka and peninsular India are of the resident form, F. p. peregrinator (also known as the Shaheen or Shahin Falcon), which shows a deep chestnut wash to the lower breast, belly and thighs, and extensive dark sides to the head, making the ‘moustache’ less obvious.

Osprey Pandion haliaetus A distant bird perched in a dead tree at the reservoir in Udewalawe NP on 8th. Quite a scarce bird in Sri Lanka and rarely seen on our tours here.

Oriental Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus Always unpredictable as it occurs widely but in small numbers. This year noted on five dates, with singles at Kitulgula on 3rd, 4th and 5th, one at Udewalawe NP on 8th and two together at Horton Plains on 12th.

Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus Two at Udewalawe NP on 8th, and one hovering by the roadside in the hills en route to Nuwara Eliya on 11th.

Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus A common and widespread bird throughout the lowlands, particularly near wetlands and the coast. Noted on seven dates and most numerous in coastal regions, especially at Bundala and Yala NPs with 10+ at each site.

Pallid Harrier Circus macrurous An adult male gave great views as it passed by our jeeps at Udewalawe NP on 8th and then perch up on a bare tree.

White-bellied Sea-eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster Not restricted to the coast in Sri Lanka, in fact it seems to be quite scarce in coastal regions, whereas it is fairly widespread and common inland. Noted on seven dates at Embilimpitiya, Udewalawe, Debarawewa and Tissa tanks, Yala NP, in the hills en route to Nuwara Eliya, Kandy and Peradeniya Botanical Gardens, and Sigiriya.

Grey-headed Fish Eagle Haliaeetus ichthyaetus Favours freshwater tanks and its distribution is similar to that of the previous species but generally less numerous. Two at Udewalawe NP on 8th, one at Debarawewa tank on 9th, three at Tissa tank on 10th and a pair at Sigiriya on 14th. Formerly known as the “Tank Eagle”, reflecting its preferred habitat in Sri Lanka.

Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela Widespread in small numbers, particularly in the Wet Zone. Noted daily from 3rd to 6th at Kitulgula and Sinharaja, also one in the hills en route to Nuwara Eliya on 11th and two below Horton Plains en route to Nuwara Eliya on 12th. Endemic subspecies S. c. spilogaster.

Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus Fine views of a pair perched in a bare tree at Sinharaja on 8th. The race A. t. layardi is endemic to Sri Lanka.

Shikra Accipiter badius This is a widespread species but it can be quite secretive. In total, just five birds were seen on four dates, a pair at Kitulgula on 4th, Udewalawe NP on 8th, Tissa tank on 10th, and between Kandy and Dambulla on 14th.

Himalayan Buzzard Buteo burmanicus Two at Horton Plains on 1st. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) have concluded that Himalayan Buzzard, the only Buteo known to occur in Sri Lanka, is specifically distinct from Common Buzzard, although the reasons for reaching this conclusion are unclear.

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Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis Singles en route to Kitulgula from Negombo on 3rd and overhead at Kitulgula on 4th. One over the valley at Ella on 11th and two higher into the hills at the Surrey Tea Estate later the same day. This fine eagle hunts low over the canopy where it preys chiefly on giant squirrels.

Booted Eagle Aquila pennata A pale morph perch in a palm in the Debarawewa garden on 10th.

Crested Hawk-eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus This attractive eagle was noted on eight dates at Kitulgula, Sinharaja, Udewalawe NP (at least three here), Yala NP, en route to Nuwara Eliya and en route to Kandy. Sri Lankan and southern Indian birds display a prominent long crest, quite different to those inhabiting the rest of the species’ range, and were formerly treated as a distinct species, Crested Hawk-eagle S. linaetus. This treatment might well be adopted again in the future. Endemic subspecies S. c. ceylonensis.

White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus Widespread, common and noted on ten dates.

Watercock Gallicrex cinerea A distant bird lurking in dense vegetation at Bundala NP on 9th was an outstanding find by Mary.

Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio Common at Bundala NP, Debarawewa and Tissa tanks, and Sigiriya. One bird incubating at Sigiriya on 14th. The various populations of this species are accorded species status by some authorities. The form occurring in Sri Lanka and India is the ‘Grey-headed’ Swamphen P. p. poliocephalus.

Moorhen Gallinula chloropus At least 40 on the lake at Bundala NP on 9th.

Coot Fulica atra Four on the lake at Bundala NP on 9th. A scarce and local bird in Sri Lanka.

Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator At least three seen during the safari drive at Udewalawe NP on 8th and two seen in Yala NP on 10th. Endemic subspecies T. s. leggei. The distinctive ‘song’ resembles the noise made by a small motorbike!

Indian Stone-curlew Burhinus indicus Two birds at Udewalawe NP and one at Kalametiya on 8th, and two at Bundala NP on 9th. Also heard calling after dusk at Yala NP on 10th. Note that Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) have concluded that this taxon, which also occurs in India, merits specific status and have split it from the widespread Stone-curlew B. oedicnemus of Europe and Central Asia.

Great Thick-knee Burhinus recurvirostris Several of these outrageous ‘waders’ were seen in the southeast, with three at Udewalawe NP and 12 at Kalametiya on 8th, and 15+ at Bundala NP on 9th.

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Common in freshwater and coastal wetlands in the southeast. Noted at Embilimpitiya, Udewalawe NP, Kalametiya, Bundala and Yala NPs. Most numerous on the salt pans at Bundala.

Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus At least ten at Kalametiya on 8th, followed by singles at Bundala NP on 9th and Yala NP on 10th.

Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus Common and widespread throughout lowland fields and marshes. Endemic subspecies V. i. lankae.

Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva At least 30 at Kalametiya on 8th, 10+ at Bundala NP on 9th and at least one at Yala NP on 10th.

Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola At least ten at Kalametiya on 8th and a similar number at Bundala NP on 9th.

Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Singles at Bundala NP on 9th and Yala NP on 10th.

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Just one sighting, of three birds at Yala NP on 10th, together with a Ringed Plover. Birds of the resident race C. d. jerdoni retain ‘breeding’ plumage throughout the year and shows a conspicuous yellow eye-ring and reddish base to the lower mandible, whereas the northern migrant form C. d. curonicus adopts a drab ‘non-breeding’ plumage outside the breeding season. Most birds occurring in Sri Lanka are of the form jerdoni.

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus Six at Kalametiya on 8th, followed by 50+ at Bundala NP on 9th and Yala NP on 10th. The distinctive resident race C. a. seebohmi is endemic to Sri Lanka and southernmost India. These birds are slightly smaller than the northern breeders and show a proportionately smaller, more delicate bill structure. In breeding plumage, the

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males lack the orange crown typical of the northern forms and show reduced dark breast patches and an extensive white forecrown. No birds showing characters of the northern, migrant forms were seen.

Lesser Sandplover Charadrius mongolus At least 400 at Kalametiya on 8th, followed by 200+ on the saltpans at Bundala NP on 9th and 100+ at Yala on 10th. One or two birds were beginning to attain breeding plumage on the breast but none had moulted sufficiently to determine which race they belonged to. However, the race that commonly winters in Sri Lanka is C. m. atrifrons (probably also including races schaeferi and pamirensis), which breeds in the high mountains of Central Asia, from the Pamirs to the Tibetan plateau. Some authorities treat this form as a species distinct from the nominate race which breeds on the tundra of northeast Siberia, but in non-breeding plumage their separation is impossible.

Greater Sandplover Charadrius leschenaultii One with Lesser Sandplovers on grassland at Kalametiya on 8th, and one on the saltpans, again with Lesser Sandplovers, at Bundala NP the next day.

Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus Plentiful in low-lying wetlands and tanks, particularly numerous at Debarawewa and Tissa tanks and at Sigiriya.

Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura Two flushed at Kalametiya on 8th and four seen ‘on the deck’ and in flight at Bundala NP the following day.

Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa An impressive flock, estimated to be in the region of 5,000 birds, at Kalametiya on 8th, followed by 60+ at Bundala NP on 9th and 20+ at Yala NP on 10th. These large, long-billed birds would be of the nominate race, but it was interesting to see that there was significant size variation within the flock and some showed proportionately short bills. It is possible that some may have been of the east Asian race L. l. melanuroides.

Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus One at Bundala NP on 9th.

Curlew Numenius arquata One at Bundala NP on 9th. This exceptionally long-billed bird would be of the eastern race N. a. orientalis.

Redshank Tringa totanus Common in coastal wetlands with at least 30 at Kalametiya on 8th, 60+ at Bundala on 9th and 10+ at Yala NP on 10th.

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Common in coastal wetlands with at least 20 at Kalametiya on 8th, 40+ at Bundala on 9th and 10+ at Yala NP on 10th.

Greenshank Tringa nebularia Quite scarce in comparison to the previous two species, with 10+ at Kalametiya on 8th, four at Bundala NP on 9th and two at Yala NP on 10th.

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Two at Udewalawe NP and four at Kalametiya on 8th, followed by 10+ at Bundala NP on 9th and two at Yala NP on 10th.

Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus One at Bundala NP on 9th.

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Apart from one on rocks in the river at Kitulgula on 3rd, all other sightings came from the southeast. Two by the lake at the hotel at Embilimpitiya on 7th, four at Kalametiya on 8th, two at Bundala NP on 9th and one at Yala NP on 10th. All sightings were either singles or pairs.

Turnstone Arenaria interpres At least 15 at Kalametiya on 8th, six at Bundala on 9th and one at Yala on 10th.

Little Stint Calidris minuta At least 60 at Kalametiya on 8th, a minimum of 200 at Bundala NP on 9th and 100+ at Yala NP on 10th.

Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Similar distribution to that of Little Stint but numbers slightly smaller.

Broad-billed Sandpiper Limicola falcinellus Two at Bundala NP on 9th was the only sighting. These birds were still in the pale grey and white non-breeding plumage, and appear quite different to spring birds in rich brown breeding plumage.

Ruff Philomachus pugnax Four at Kalametiya on 8th was the only sighting. Small Pratincole Glareola lactea Five at Bundala NP on 9th was the only sighting.

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Brown-headed Gull Chroicocephalus brunnicephalus A distant bird with terns over the tern roost at Kalametiya on 8th and 10+ at Bundala NP on 9th.

Little Tern Sternula albifrons At least 300 at Bundala on 9th.

Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica One over the lake by the hotel at Embilimpitiya on 7th, eight at Kalametiya on 8th, 30+ at Bundala on 9th and two at Yala NP on 10th. All were in non-breeding plumage.

Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia At least 50 at Bundala NP on 9th. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida

The most numerous and widespread tern, regularly recorded in small numbers at many freshwater wetlands and rice paddy throughout the lowlands of the Dry Zone. Several hundred noted at Kalametiya, Udewalawe NP and at wetlands near Tissa and Sigiriya. However the numbers at Bundala NP were truly outstanding, numbering at least 4000 and likely many thousands more; by far the largest numbers seen on this and previous tours to Sri Lanka.

White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus Eight at Kalametiya on 8th and two at Debarawewa tank on 9th. All were associating with much larger numbers of Whiskered Terns.

Crested Tern Sterna bergii At least 200 birds roosting on offshore rocks at Kalametiya on 8th and 6+ at Bundala on 9th. These birds show a dark grey mantle and wings, much darker than the accompanying Lesser Cresteds.

Lesser Crested Tern Sterna bengalensis At least 20 roosting on bunds at Bundala NP on 9th with other terns.

Feral Rock Dove Columba livia Widely noted in towns and villages throughout but absent from forested areas.

Sri Lankan Woodpigeon Columba torringtoniae ENDEMIC This can be one of the trickier of the endemics to track down. After failing to find it at the Surrey estate we were treated to outstanding views of a pair at Horton Plains on 12th. Several more birds were calling here.

Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis Common, widespread and seen daily. Endemic subspecies S. c. ceylonensis.

Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica Regularly heard and single birds occasionally seen at Kitulgula and Sigiriya. Also seen at the Surrey Tea Estate on 11th and Sigiriya on 14th. Endemic subspecies C. i. robinsoni.

Orange-breasted Green Pigeon Treron bicincta Restricted to the Dry Zone where it was noted from 8th to 10th, with 15+ at Udewalawe NP and six at Kalametiya on 8th, followed by singles or pairs at Bundala NP, Debarawewa and Tissa, and Yala NP on subsequent days. Endemic subspecies T. b. leggei.

Sri Lanka Green Pigeon Treron pompadora ENDEMIC Fairly common and regularly encountered in the Wet Zone at Kitulgula and Sinharaja. Elsewhere, two at Udewalawe NP on 8th and up to four daily at Sigiriya on 14th and 15th. Formerly, this race was the nominate race of Pompadour Green Pigeon, restricted to Sri Lanka. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) recommended that Pompadour Green Pigeon should be a four-way split, with the nominate endemic Sri Lanka race being treated as a full species, distinct from other races occurring of mainland India and southeast Asia. However, the justification for this decision has not yet been published.

Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea Widely recorded in wooded areas in the Wet Zone, being most numerous at Kitulgula and Sinharaja. In the Dry Zone of the southeast, much less common with ones and twos seen daily from 9th to 11th.

Sri Lankan Hanging Parrot Loriculus beryllinus ENDEMIC Quite common in wooded areas and parks of the Wet Zone, including Kitulgula, Sinharaja, the Surrey Tea Estate, and in the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens and Udewattekele Royal Forest in Kandy. In the Dry Zone, regularly heard at Sigiriya. The distinctive buzzing flight call often gave warning of an approaching bird.

Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria In the Wet Zone, up to four daily at Kitulgula. Elsewhere at least ten at Udewalawe NP on 8th, several at the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens in Kandy, and ones and twos seen or heard at Sigiriya on 15th.

Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri Common and widespread throughout the Dry Zone.

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Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala Two males at the Kitulgula viewpoint on 3rd, followed by two at Sinharaja on 6th and 20+ at Udewalawe NP on 8th. Now separated from the Blossom-headed Parakeet P. roseata of northeast India and southeast Asia.

Layard's Parakeet Psittacula calthropae ENDEMIC Restricted to the Wet Zone, where it was regularly heard and seen at Kitulgula and Sinharaja, and also seen and heard at Udewattekele Forest Reserve in Kandy on 11th.

Jacobin Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus Two at Udewalawe NP on 8th and one at Tissa tank on 10th. Jacobin Cuckoo is the name in widespread use for

this species in Africa. In Asia, however, it is more commonly (and appropriately) known as the Pied Cuckoo. Chestnut-winged Cuckoo Clamator coromandus One showed well in a feeding flock at Sinharaja on 7th. Common Hawk-cuckoo Hierococcyx varius

One calling bird lured into view at the Surrey Tea Estate on 11th. Endemic subspecies H. c. ciceliae. Grey-bellied Cuckoo Cacomantis passerinus

At least six, including two hepatic birds at Udewalawe NP on 8th. A bird at Sigiriya on 15th had us scratching our heads for a while. Although clearly this species it showed a mix of the hepatic and typical grey plumages, with a barred breast, rufous wash to the throat and sides of the head, and a chestnut tail with black barring. The wings and mantle had the typical grey appearance of this species. These grey-bellied birds are now treated as specifically distinct from the rufous-bellied Plaintive Cuckoo C. merulinus of southeast Asia.

Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris A calling bird heard at Sinharaja on 6th.

Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea Common and widespread, heard or seen on ten dates. Much more vocal in February than it was in November.

Blue-faced Malkoha Rhopodytes viridirostris Two at Bundala NP on 9th.

Red-faced Malkoha Phaenicophaeus pyrrhocephalus ENDEMIC This can be a difficult bird to see well as they often move rapidly through the canopy with mixed feeding parties and are often gone before you appreciate they are there, offering just the briefest of glimpses. So we were particularly pleased to see a couple of birds extremely well at Sinharaja on 6th. One bird remained with us for several minutes and we enjoyed great views of its scarlet-red race peering at us over the leaves.

Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis Widespread and particularly numerous, being seen or heard on nine dates.

Green-billed Coucal Centropus chlororhynchus ENDEMIC After failing to find the normally regular bird at Kitulgula (for the second visit running) we encountered a pair at Sinharaja on 6th.

Serendib Scops Owl Otus thilohoffmanni ENDEMIC After a short trek through the forest, we were treated to outstanding daytime views of a bird at its daytime roost. This is the tenth time that this species has been recorded on a Limosa tour since 2004. Following its discovery in 1997, it was described as a species new to science as recently as July 2004.

Indian Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena A pair of roosting birds showed well in the hotel grounds at Embilimpitiya on 8th.

Spot-bellied Eagle Owl Bubo nipalensis One calling shortly after dusk at Sigiriya on 14th. The onset of heavy rain thwarted our attempts to see this magnificent owl.

Brown Wood Owl Strix leptogrammica A pair of these large owls at their daytime roost showed well at the Surrey Tea Estate on 11th. This the third time that we have recorded this species on a tour to Sri Lanka, and with the discovery of this second roosting pair, this species appears likely to feature regularly on this tour in future.

Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis After being approached by a couple of villagers, we followed them to a spot where we were treated to outstanding daytime views of a bird fishing in a small pool at Debarawewa on 9th.

Jungle Owlet Glaucidium radiatum A calling bird showed well in the palm plantation at Debarawewa in the early morning of 10th.

Chestnut-backed Owlet Glaucidium castanonotum ENDEMIC As the birds were nesting they had moved from their traditional site. Although heard at Kitulgula on 4th, we had to wait until 5th before we saw this endemic owl in a tree beside its nest hole. In the past, this species has been treated as a race of Asian Barred Owlet G. cuculoides, although this treatment is no longer recognised.

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Sri Lankan Frogmouth Batrachostomus moniliger Two sightings on this tour and, as usual, both were birds at known spots which we were shown. At Kitulgula, a male on a nest containing at least one well grown youngster on 4th, and at Sinharaja a roosting female on 6th. Despite its name, this species also occurs in the mountains of southwestern India and is not endemic to Sri Lanka. One heard and two seen briefly in flight just after sunset at Sigiriya on 14th, shortly after which the heavens opened and put the mockers on the evenings birding!

Indian Nightjar Caprimulgus asiaticus At least four showed well in the torch beam just after dusk at Yala NP on 10th. A species restricted to dry scrub of the south.

Indian Swiftlet Collocalia unicolor Widespread throughout the Wet Zone and seen daily from 3rd to 7th. Elsewhere, two at the Surrey Tea Estate on 11th and 10+ gathering over Haggala in the late afternoon on 12th. An extremely complex genus, this species has previously been treated as a race of Edible-nest Swiftlet C. fuciphaga.

Brown-backed Needletail Hirundapus giganteus One over Sinharaja forest on 6th and three there on 7th.

Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis Noted on seven dates in small numbers throughout the areas visited, being most numerous in coastal regions and absent from the hills. Usually seen singly or in pairs, but 20+ at Udewalawe NP on 8th and common at Tissa and Yala NP on 10th. Favours palms, and can often be seen in urban locations wherever palms have been planted.

Little Swift Apus affinis Two at Kitulgula on 4th, followed by four at Bundala NP on 9th and Yala NP on 10th. At least ten in Kandy on 10th. Common at Sigiriya where 100+ birds were flying over the rock and surrounding paddy during heavy rain on 14th. Most authorities now separate birds from northeast India and southeast Asia as House Swift A. nipalensis. Sri Lankan birds belong to the race A. a. singalensis which is considered to be closest to the African and Indian races of A. affinis but, in truth, it shows features associated with A. nipalensis, in having blacker plumage and a slightly more developed tail notch. Endemic subspecies A. a. singalensis.

Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata Two perching in a bare tree at the Kitulgula viewpoint on 3rd, followed by four at Udewalawe NP on 8th, two at Yala NP on 10th and a pair at Sigiriya on 15th.

Malabar Trogon Harpactes fasciatus This species usually moves silently within mixed bird parties, keeping to the mid storey, and usually reveals its presence only when it flies, often landing nearby and almost invariably back on to the observers. Only seen at Sinharaja, with two males and a female on 6th, and a male and female on 7th. Endemic subspecies H. f. fasciatus.

Hoopoe Upupa epops Three at Yala NP on 10th. The richly coloured race U. e. ceylonensis also occurs in Peninsular India south of Mumbai.

Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis Surprisingly, only two seen at Udewalawe NP on 8th, here it is often quite numerous. Elsewhere, two at Bundala NP on 9th, two at Yala NP on 10th, and one on 11th.

Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis The huge kingfisher was noted on seven dates at Kitulgula, Embilimpitiya, Kalametiya, Tissa tank and Sigiriya.

White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis Widespread throughout the country and recorded daily.

Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx erithaca As we were walking on the trail at Udewattekele Forest Reserve in Kandy on 14th, Tharanga heard the call of one of these diminutive kingfishers, which he quickly located sitting on top of a bare branch in forested gully. Soon a second bird was found and we all enjoyed brilliant, prolonged scope views of these forest jewels. The dark-backed nominate form occurs in Sri Lanka and extends into southwest and northeast India and east to Thailand and into the Indochina region. The Rufous-backed races occur in the Malay peninsula and Indonesia.

Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Ones and twos noted on nine dates.

Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Two at Kalametiya on 8th, followed by four at Bundala NP and three at A very good showing on this tour, or perhaps we’re just getting better at finding them? Singles Udewalawe NP on 8th, at on 9th, and one at Tissa tank on 10th. The race C. r. travancoreensis is restricted to southwest India and Sri Lanka.

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Little Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis Regularly encountered throughout the dry lowland regions of Sri Lanka, where it was common at Udewalawe NP, Kalametiya, Bundala and Yala NPs, and throughout the Sigiriya area. The race M. o. ceylonicus is endemic to Sri Lanka.

Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus A common and widespread winter visitor, which was seen on twelve dates at most locations we visited. Formerly included with Blue-cheeked M. persicus and Olive Bee-eaters under M. superciliosus.

Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaultii At least six at the Kitulgula viewpoint on 3rd, followed by two at Kitulgula on 4th and four or more on 5th. Elsewhere, at least four at the Surrey Tea Estate on 11th.

Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill Ocyceros gingalensis ENDEMIC Five at Kitulgula on 4th and two there the next day. Also two en route to Embilimpitiya on 7th. Now split from Malabar Grey Hornbill O. griseus.

Malabar Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros coronatus Five at Udewalawe NP on 8th, one at Tissa on 10th and two at Yala NP, also on 10th. Stunning.

Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica Widely recorded throughout and noted on 11 dates. Formerly treated as a race of Lineated Barbet M. lineata of southeast Asia and the Himalayas. Endemic subspecies M. z. zeylanica.

Yellow-fronted Barbet Megalaima flavifrons ENDEMIC Recorded on seven dates, although heard much more frequently than it was seen. Common at Kitulgula and Sinharaja in the Wet Zone, but largely absent from the Dry Zone.

Crimson-fronted Barbet Megalaima rubricapillus ENDEMIC Two at the Kitulgula viewpoint on 3rd and heard at Kitulgula the following day. Thereafter not seen until 13th, when two or more were seen at the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens and four at Udewattekele Forest Reserve in Kandy on 14th. One seen and others heard at Sigiriya on 14th and 15th. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) proposed that the endemic Sri Lanka bird should be split from other populations on mainland India, although the justification for this decision has not yet been published.

Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala Restricted to the Dry Zone, where six were seen at Udewalawe NP on 8th and others heard at Yala NP on 10th. Regularly seen and heard at Sigiriya on 14th and 15th.

Indian Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopus nanus One at Sigiriya on 15th moved through rather too quickly for everyone to fully appreciate. The race D. n. gymnophthalmos is endemic to Sri Lanka.

Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopus mahrattensis Singles at Udewalawe NP on 8th and Yala NP on 10th. The nominate race occurs in Sri Lanka and is also widespread throughout Peninsular India.

Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus A pair at Kitulgula on 4th and one with a mixed bird party at Sinharaja on 7th. Endemic subspecies P. c. wellsi.

Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense The most numerous and widespread woodpecker encountered, noted on seven dates. Often seen around villages and habitation, including the hotel garden at Kitulgula. The endemic subspecies D. b. psarodes we encountered shows a red, rather than golden orange, wings and mantle, but does intergrade with the golden mantled form D. b. jaffnense, which is endemic to northern Sri Lanka, in the north of the island where their ranges overlap.

Crimson-backed Flameback Chrysocolaptes stricklandi ENDEMIC One seen by Tharanga and John at Kitulgula on 5th, and a pair in the eucalypts at Bomurella on 13th. The loud, strident call of this species never fails to attract attention. This bird differs from Greater Flameback in showing red, rather than golden-orange wings and mantle. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) propose to split the endemic Sri Lanka form from other populations of Greater Flameback inhabiting mainland India and elsewhere in southeast Asia, although the justification for this decision has not yet been published.

Indian Pitta Pitta brachyura This is a common and widespread winter visitor, occurring throughout much of the island so it came as a bit of a surprise to encounter so few birds, probably the lowest number ever recorded on this tour. One at Sinharaja on 6th and two or three seen at Sigiriya on 14th and 15th were the only sightings. Others heard occasionally at Kitulgula, Udewalawe NP and the Surrey Tea Estate. Occurs from sea level up to Nuwara Eliya, and given the density at which they occur, the total wintering population could run into hundreds of thousands, possibly even millions. Upon arrival, birds establish a feeding territory which it defends throughout its stay. Both sexes call and sing throughout the period they remain on the island.

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Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus Singles at Kitulgula on 3rd and Horton Plains on 12th, and two at Sigiriya on 15th. Endemic subspecies H. p. leggei.

Sri Lanka Woodshrike Tephrodornis affinis ENDEMIC A very good showing on this tour, or perhaps we’re getting better at finding these too? Singles Udewalawe NP on 8th, at Debarawewa on 9th, and at Tissa and Yala NP on 10th. Also four at Bundala NP on 9th and five at Sigiriya on 14th. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) proposed the split of the endemic Sri Lanka race from other populations of Common Woodshrike on mainland India and elsewhere throughout southeast Asia, although the justification for this decision has not yet been published.

Ashy Woodswallow Artamus fuscus This can often be a tricky species to find as it tends to occur in habitats we don’t spend much time in – intensively cultivated agricultural lowlands. In fact, often the best place to find them is perching on roadside wires. This year we found a pair on overhead roadside wires en route to Kitulgula on 3rd, and another pair at Debarawewa on 9th.

Common Iora Aegithina tiphia Recorded on eight dates. Most were only heard but several showed well. Interesting that the males are now in breeding plumage, having undergone a body moult since our visit in November when no breeding plumaged males were seen. Its highly varied song includes a characteristic drawn-out and penetrating whistle.

Marshall’s Iora Aegithina nigrolutea Only recently found to be occurring in Sri Lanka, where it appears to be a localised breeding bird. It is also something of a speciality for Tharanga, who has been involved in establishing its status and distribution. Being in such safe and experienced hands, we were pleased to see a pair (albeit briefly and missed by most) at Udewalawe NP on 8th, and much better, and prolonged, views of a pair at Yala NP on 10th. The nearest breeding populations occur in south-central India and northwest India.

Black-headed Cuckoo-shrike Coracina melanoptera Just one sighting, at Sigiriya on 15th.

Ashy Minivet Pericrocotus divaricatus One seen well with a party of Orange Minivets at Kitulgula on 4th. It was in view for approximately one minute at a distance of approximately 40 m across a clearing in the forest. During this time its entirely white underparts and ash-grey upperparts, including the rump, were clearly seen – thus eliminating the only possible conflict species, Swinhoe’s Minivet. Apparently the first sighting for Sri Lanka, but without a photograph it is unlikely to be accepted as a national first.

Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus A pair by the track above the Blue Magpie on 7th, two or three at the Surrey Tea Estate on 11th, two at Sigiriya on 14th and four or five there on 15th.

Orange Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus Noted daily from 3rd to 7th at Kitulgula and Sinharaja. Also a male at the Surrey Tea Estate on 11th and a pair at the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens in Kandy on 13th. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) treat the birds inhabiting Sri Lanka and western India as a species distinct from the more wide-ranging Scarlet Minivet P. speciosus of northern India and southeast Asia. The reasons to justify this split have not yet been published.

Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus As with most winter visitors this time, surprisingly few recorded, in contrast to the situation in November. Ones and twos seen on four dates at Kitulgula, Sinharaja, Kalametiya and Sigiriya. All sightings were of birds of the form L. c. lucionensis which breeds in southern and eastern China and mostly winters in the Philippines. Fairly common and widely recorded in wooded areas in both the Wet and Dry Zones throughout the country. Endemic subspecies O. x. ceylonensis.

White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens Widespread throughout the Wet Zone where it was regularly seen and recorded daily from 3rd to 7th at Kitulgula and Sinharaja, and also in the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens in Kandy. Not recorded from the Dry Zone. Endemic subspecies D. c. leucopygialis in which only the undertail-coverts are white, was noted at Kitulgula and Sinharaja and is restricted to the Wet Zone. A few of the endemic form D. c. insularis were seen, in which the entire belly is white, and which occurs throughout the Dry Zone. It would be interesting to monitor the interactions between these forms as they spread and their ranges overlap.

Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus Two at Sigiriya on 14th, one of which had extended tail streamers and the other had a worn tail and lacked streamers. The race D. p. ceylonensis is endemic to the Dry Zone of Sri Lanka.

Trip Report: Sri Lanka, 2-16 February 2012

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Sri Lanka Crested Drongo Dicrurus lophorinus ENDEMIC Just four at Sinharaja, where two on 6th and two on 7th. Formerly treated as a subspecies of Greater Racket-tailed Drongo. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) propose to split the endemic Sri Lanka race from other populations of Greater Racket-tailed Drongo on mainland India and elsewhere, although the justification for this decision has not yet been published.

White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola This attractive species was noted on six dates; two at Kitulgula watchpoint on 3rd, followed by singles at Ratnapura on 5th, Udewalawe NP on 8th, Yala NP on 10th and Sigiriya on 14th and 15th.

Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea A male and female at Sinharaja on 6th followed by a male at Udewattekele Forest Reserve on 11th, a male at Sigiriya on 14th and another there on 15th. Often located by its harsh, grating call. Endemic subspecies H. a. ceylonensis.

Asian Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi In comparison with previous tours, it was surprisingly scarce this year. That said, we recorded it on eight dates, at most of the expected sites. White males with elongated central tail feathers made a spectacular sight as they flew from tree to tree, and were noted at Bundala, Peradeniya Botanical Gardens, Udewattekele and Sigiriya. Two races occur in Sri Lanka. The resident form, T. p. ceylonensis, in which the underparts are largely white, darkening only on the upper breast, is endemic to the island. Most birds seen appeared to be of the nominate form, which is a winter visitor to Sri Lanka from breeding areas in India. These birds show rather more sullied underparts, and lack the white belly of the endemic form. Also, males of the endemic form apparently never attain the white plumage, so those stunningly beautiful white males we saw would be migrants of the nominate form.

Sri Lankan Blue Magpie Urocissa ornata ENDEMIC Heard at Kitulgula on 4th. Otherwise only recorded at Sinharaja, with six on 6th and a similar sized party on 7th. These birds are part of a long-term study of this species and have become habituated to humans, from which they solicit food.

House Crow Corvus splendens Widespread and extremely common, but generally absent away from towns and villages, particularly at higher elevations.

Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos Widespread, common and seen daily. It occurs throughout the island, and often away from human habitation, but generally not as abundant as the previous species in the larger towns in the lowlands. Sri Lankan and peninsular Indian birds are perhaps separable from Large-billed Crow of eastern Asia and the Himalayas as Jungle Crow C. levaillanti.

Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis One at the Surrey Tea Estate on 11th. Several heard at Horton Plains on 12th and two seen at Hakkala later the same day, also one at Bomurella on 13th. Often showing extremely well, to within a few metres. Endemic subspecies C. c. ceylonensis.

Great Tit Parus major One at the Surrey Tea Estate on and another at Victoria Park in Nuwara Eliya on 11th, two at Horton Plains on 12th and one at the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens in Kandy on 13th. These grey and white birds are occasionally separated as Cinereous or Asian Grey Tit P. cinereus. The race occurring in Sri Lanka is P. m. mahrattarum.

Sand Martin Riparia riparia Four perching on overhead power cables with Barn Swallows along the Bundala NP access road on 9th.

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Widely recorded throughout the country and noted on nine dates. Particularly numerous in the Dry Zone, especially at Udewalawe, Bundala and Yala NPs, with several hundred at most wetland sites visited. Most were of the east Asian race H. r. gutturalis in which the red throat patch bleeds into the black breast band. At Bundala NP, at least one bird showed warm chestnut underparts, approaching that of Sri Lankan Swallow, and was presumably of the race H. r. tytleri which breeds in the Lake Baikal region of Siberia but its winter range remains largely unknown.

Hill Swallow Hirundo domicola Two at the Surrey Tea Estate on 11th, at least six at Horton Plains on 12th, followed by four or more at the GlenlochTea Factory below Nuwara Eliya on 13th. Formerly included in Pacific Swallow H. tahitica. This species is restricted to Sri Lanka and the Western Ghats region of southern India.

Trip Report: Sri Lanka, 2-16 February 2012

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Sri Lankan Swallow Cecropis hyperythra ENDEMIC Widespread and noted on seven dates. Most were seen in the Wet Zone with daily sightings at from 3rd to 6th. In the Dry Zone, at least ten at Kalametiya on 8th, two at Udewalawe NP the next day and ten or more at Sigiriya on 14th during heavy rain when many hirundines and swifts were forced down and fed over the tanks. This distinctive hirundine differs from Red-rumped Swallow in its largely unstreaked, deep rufous underparts and rump, and the call also seems to differ from that of other races Red-rumped Swallows, from which it has recently been split. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) propose to split this endemic Sri Lanka race from other populations in mainland India and elsewhere, although the justification for this decision has not yet been published.

Jerdon's Bushlark Mirafra affinis At least ten at Udewalawe NP on 8th. A recent change in the taxonomy of Mirafra bushlarks resulted in this taxon being split from the Rufous-winged or Bengal Bushlark M. assamica.

Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix grisea At least 15 at Bundala NP on 9th and 12+ at Yala NP on 10th.

Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula Four seen and others heard in song at Bundala on 9th. The nominate form occurs in the Dry Zone.

Black-capped Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus ENDEMIC Up to four daily from 4th to 7th at Kitulgula and Sinharaja. Also one below Ella during a short tea break en route to Nuwara Eliya on 11th. This Sri Lankan endemic taxon is now split by Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) from other populations of Black-headed Yellow or Black-crested Bulbul P. flaviventris occurring on mainland Asia, although the justification for this decision has not yet been published.

Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer Common and widespread throughout, and recorded daily.

Yellow-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus penicillatus ENDEMIC Confined to forests and well-wooded parks and gardens in the hills. Two at Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya, on 11th. Fairly common at Horton Plains on 12th with 8+ noted, and four at Haggala later the same day. Undoubtedly the most attractive of the Sri Lankan bulbuls.

White-browed Bulbul Pycnonotus luteolus This bulbul is largely confined to the Dry Zone, where it proved to be quite scarce and elusive. One at Ratnapura on 5th was followed by singles or pairs on a further six dates, but only showed well at Sigiriya. Endemic subspecies P. l. insulae.

Yellow-browed Bulbul Iole indica A common and frequently encountered resident in moist forests of the Wet Zone at Kitulgula and Sinharaja, where up to 20 were seen daily between 4th and 7th. Endemic subspecies I. i. guglielmi occurs in Wet Zone.

Square-tailed Bulbul Hypsipetes ganeesa Fairly common and widespread in the forests of the Wet Zone where it occurs singly, in pairs or small flocks of up to 20 birds. Noted daily at Kitulgula and Sinharaja from 3rd to 7th. Also 10+ present at Udewattekele Forest Reserve where a bird was attending a nest. The southern Indian and Sri Lankan birds have recently been split from Black Bulbul by Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) although the justification for this has not been published. Endemic subspecies H. g. humei.

Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Two in the grasslands at Udewalawe NP on 8th followed by one at Tissa tank on 10th and two or more at Horton Plains the next day. The endemic subspecies C. j. omalurus sounds distinctly different to those birds breeding in southern Europe.

Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii At least two at Udewalawe NP on 8th. Endemic subspecies P. h. pectoralis. Jungle Prinia Prinia sylvatica

A singing male showed well at Sigiriya on 15th, enabling us to appreciate its subtle character. Endemic subspecies P. s. valida.

Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis This attractive Prinia was common at Udewalawe NP where at least ten singing males were seen or heard on 8th. Others seen and heard at Bundala and Yala NPs and in scrub near Tissa on 10th. Endemic subspecies P. s. brevicauda.

Plain Prinia Prinia inornata One at the Kitulgula watchpoint on 3rd was the only sighting from the Wet Zone. Common at Udewalawe, Bundala, Yala and throughout the Tissa area. Several at Sigiriya on 15th. Previously included within Tawny-flanked Prinia P. subflava of Africa. Endemic subspecies P. i. insularis.

Trip Report: Sri Lanka, 2-16 February 2012

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Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius Widespread and recorded daily. Endemic subspecies O. s. sutorius occurs in the lowlands and O. s. fernandornis in the hills.

Sri Lankan Bush Warbler Elaphrornis palliseri ENDEMIC Surprisingly easy this time. A male showed extremely well as it foraged in the open for several minutes by the edge of Arrenga Pool at Horton Plains on 11th, and a female showed briefly later that morning. Formerly placed in the genus Bradypterus.

Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus Several in song and one or two showing well in Typhus beds fringing the tank by the visitors centre at Bundala NP on 9th. Endemic subspecies A. s. meridionalis.

Blyth’s Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum Two seen at Udewalawe NP on 8th, at least four seen or heard at the Surrey Tea Estate on 11th, and one at Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya, later the same day.

Green Warbler Phylloscopus nitidus In contrast to November 2011 and other tours, this bird was quite hard to come by. Although it was seen or heard on ten dates, it was often just a single bird heard each day. Unlike on previous tours, very few were heard at Kitulgula and Sinharaja where it is usually abundant, and it wasn’t until we reached Horton Plains that everyone managed to catch up with this subtle Phylloscopus. With care, the call of this form can be recognised as being subtly distinct from Greenish Warbler which winters throughout India. Formerly treated as a race of Greenish Warbler P. trochiloides.

Large-billed Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus magnirostris Like the previous species, exceptionally low numbers this year. In fact, for the first time ever we failed to see this normally straightforward species. Calling birds heard on just four occasions: Sinharaja on 7th, Surrey Tea Estate in 11th, Horton Plains on 12th and Udewattekele Forest Reserve on 14th. This winter visitor from the eastern Himalayas and mountains of western China has a similar distribution across the island as Green Warbler, albeit in much smaller numbers. But as it frequents the mid-storey it is usually easier to see than its canopy-frequenting cousin. Once known, the call and song of this species, which are regularly given, are quite distinctive.

Brown-capped Babbler Pellorneum fuscocapillum ENDEMIC Singles at Sinharaja on 7th, Surrey Tea Estate on 11th, Haggala on 12th and Sigiriya on 15th.

Sri Lankan Scimitar-babbler Pomatorhinus melanurus ENDEMIC The distinctive ‘pooping’ song of this species was regularly heard at Sinharaja where one was seen on 6th and two on 7th. Elsewhere, three or more heard at Horton Plains on 12th and another heard at Bomurella on 13th. Rasmussen & Anderton (2005) propose splitting the endemic Sri Lanka races P. m. melanurus of the wet lowlands, and P. m. holdsworthi of the dry lowlands and hills, from populations of Indian Scimitar-babbler P. horsfieldii on mainland India, although the justification for this decision has not yet been published.

Tawny-bellied Babbler Dumetia hyperythra Two parties totalling at least 12 birds at Udewalawe NP on 8th, and three or four en route to Nuwara Eliya on 11th. Endemic subspecies D. h. phillipsi.

Dark-fronted Babbler Rhopocichla atriceps Several sightings of small groups in Sinharaja on 6th and 7th, totalling in the region of 20 individuals. Also one at Sigiriya on 14th. Endemic subspecies R. a. nigrifrons occurs in the Wet Zone and R. a. siccatus in the Dry Zone and hills.

Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense Two at Udewalawe NP on 8th was the only sighting. The race C. s. nasalis is endemic to Sri Lanka.

Orange-billed Babbler Turdoides rufescens ENDEMIC Numerous, noisy and conspicuous in Wet Zone forests at Kitulgula and Sinharaja where it occurs in large parties and was seen daily from 4th to 7th.

Yellow-billed Babbler Turdoides affinis A common species, widely recorded throughout the tour wherever wooded or scrub habitats were to be found, and seen daily except 12th in the highlands. Endemic subspecies T. a. taprobanus is restricted to Sri Lanka where it occurs from sea level to the highest mountains. Formerly considered a race of Jungle Babbler T. striatus of India.

Ashy-headed Laughingthrush Garrulax cinereifrons ENDEMIC Usually seen in the mixed bird parties at Sinharaja, so can be tricky if the flocks are being elusive. No such problems on this tour with four on 6th and 15+ there the following day.

Trip Report: Sri Lanka, 2-16 February 2012

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Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosa Typically occurs in small, noisy flocks, but these were being quite elusive this year, with just two at the Kitulgula watchpoint on 3rd and others there on 5th. Also seen at Tissa on 10th and below Ella on 12th. Endemic subspecies Z. p. egregia.

Sri Lankan White-eye Zosterops ceylonensis ENDEMIC Common and widespread in the forests at Horton Plains with 50+ there on 12th.

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis Two at the Kitulgula watchpoint on 3rd, one at Sinharaja on 6th and one at Horton Plains on 12th. Singles seen at Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya, on 14th and 15th, and at Udewattekele Forest Reserve on 16th. The nominate race occurs in Sri Lanka.

Sri Lankan Hill Myna Gracula ptilogenys ENDEMIC At least eight in flight at Sinharaja on 6th was the only sighting. This is a species which we often see near the Blue Magpie.

Southern Hill Myna Gracula indica Regularly seen at Kitulgula, with four at the viewpoint on 3rd, and singles on subsequent days. Also 10+ at the Udewattekele Forest Reserve at Kandy on 14th.

Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Widespread and abundant. Endemic subspecies A. t. melanosturnus.

White-faced Starling Sturnornis albofrontalis ENDEMIC Two showed well in a bare tree at the Sinharaja research station on 6th and again the following day. Sinharaja is the only site on the planet for this elusive starling.

Rose-coloured Starling Pastor roseus At least 300 at Udewalawe NP on 8th.

Sri Lankan Whistling Thrush Myophonus blighi Reverted back to its elusive ways this time. Although everyone managed to hear a calling bird, either at Horton Plains or Haggala on 12th, there were just three sightings, each of different birds seen by just one person each time. At Horton Plains, Helen saw a male run across the road and John watched a female there later the same morning, while later the same day Mary saw a male at Haggala.

Pied (Ground) Thrush Zoothera wardii This stunning thrush is always one of the highlights of this tour. Only seen in Victoria Park at Nuwara Eliya, where a male showed well as he fed amongst the leaf litter by the stream. Breeds in the central Himalayas and winters in the highlands of Sri Lanka, and Victoria Park is probably the best site on the planet to see this striking, elusive and localised Zoothera.

Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina A superb male showed extremely well in shady undergrowth in the forest at Sigiriya on 15th. This species, which is a winter visitor to Sri Lanka from the Himalayan foothills, appears to be occurring with increasing frequency in recent years, such that we now expect to see it at Sigiriya on every winter tour. That said, with the destruction of its favoured wintering site just outside the hotel gates, we may now need to search further afield to try to locate one. Hopefully our luck will continue to hold! The race concerned is Z. c. citrina.

Spot-winged Thrush Zoothera spiloptera ENDEMIC Singles near Sisira’s Lodge at Kitulgula on 4th and at Sinharaja on 6th and 7th.

Sri Lankan Scaly Thrush Zoothera imbricata This species maintains its status as Sri Lanka’s most elusive endemic. After failing to even hear any at Sinharaja, one was seen by Tharanga and Peter P. at Horton Plains on 12th.

Indian Blackbird Turdus simillimus At least eight birds showed exceptionally well before sunrise (06.00) by the entrance gate at Horton Plains on 12th, and two seen in flight across Arrenga Pool later the same day. Also one at Bomurella on 13th. These birds differ greatly from Eurasian Blackbird T. merula, with bright orange legs and bill, and a blue-grey plumage shared by both sexes. Together with the birds inhabiting southern India, now recognised a distinct species T. simillimus. Birds in Sri Lanka are of the endemic subspecies T. s. kinnisii.

Indian Blue Robin Luscinia brunnea A stunning adult male seen well at Victoria Park on 11th. Two seen and others heard in song at Bomurella on 13th and one heard at Udewattekele Forest Reserve at Kandy on 14th. This species is a winter visitor to Sri Lanka from the forests of the Himalayas and western China.

Oriental Magpie-robin Copsychus saularis Widespread throughout and recorded every day.

Trip Report: Sri Lanka, 2-16 February 2012

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White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus A male showed well at Sigiriya on 15th and another two seen briefly there the next day.. Endemic subspecies C. m. leggei.

Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata Two at Kalametiya on 8th, two at Bundala NP the following day and four at Yala NP on 10th. Also common at Sigiriya on 14th and 15th. Endemic subspecies S. f. leucoptera.

Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata Two by the roadside as we reached Nuwara Eliya on 11th and at least eight at Horton Plains on 12th. Endemic subspecies S. c. atrata.

Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica Inexplicably scarce. Just one bird seen, at Sinharaja on 6th. A winter visitor from northern Asia.

Brown-breasted Flycatcher Muscicapa muttui More numerous than the previous species but still less common than expected. Three at Sinharaja on 6th followed by another the next day. Thereafter, one at Bomurella on 13th and another at Udewattekele Forest Reserve on 14th. In contrast to the previous species, which frequents the mid to upper storey, this subtly plumaged winter visitor usually perches close to the ground.

Kashmir Flycatcher Ficedula subrubra Two first-winter males in Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya, on 11th. This exciting species breeds in the northwestern Himalayas, centred on Kashmir, and winters exclusively in the highlands of Sri Lanka. Victoria Park ranks as one of the best sites anywhere to see this charismatic flycatcher. Has previously been considered a subspecies of Red-breasted Flycatcher F. parva.

Dull-blue Flycatcher Eumyias sordida ENDEMIC One at the Surrey Tea Estate on 11th, two at Horton Plains on 12th and one at Haggala later the same day. When seen well, this is a most attractive species, despite its rather unappealing name.

Tickell's Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae Regularly heard and occasionally seen at Kitulgula, Sinharaja, Udewattekele and Sigiriya. Endemic subspecies C. t. jerdoni.

Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis Singles at Kitulgula on 4th, Debarawewa tank on 9th, Tissa on 10th and Sigiriya on 15th. Confusingly, the Sri Lankan and Peninsular Indian races of Blue-winged Leafbird lack blue wings, and are sometimes treated as a distinct species, Jerdon’s Leafbird. Endemic subspecies C. c. jerdoni.

Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile One at Debarawewa on 9th.

Legge's Flowerpecker Dicaeum vincens ENDEMIC Males noted at Kitulgula on 4th and Sinharaja on 6th.

Pale-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrorhynchos Widely recorded throughout Sri Lanka and seen or heard most days. The race D. e. ceylonensis is endemic to Sri Lanka.

Purple-rumped Sunbird Leptocoma zeylonica Widely recorded in small numbers throughout the country and seen most days. Endemic subspecies L. z. zeylonica.

Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus Four at Udewalawe NP and two at Kalametiya on 8th, and 6+ noted at both Bundala and Yala NPs.

Loten's Sunbird Cinnyris lotenia Noted on six dates at Kitulgula, Kalametiya, Debarawewa, Tissa and the Surrey Tea Estate. Most numerous at the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens in Kandy. The distinctive hanging nests were seen at the palm estate at Tissa and by the track at the Surrey Tea Estate. Endemic subspecies C. l. lotenia.

House Sparrow Passer domesticus Common and widely recorded in highland towns, but much less numerous elsewhere and absent from forested areas in the Wet Zone. Treated by some authorities as a distinct species, Indian Sparrow Passer indicus.

Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus Many males attending nests at Tissa tank on 10th and a few seen at Yala NP later the same day. These birds were beginning to attain their bright breeding plumage.

Indian Silverbill Euodice malabarica At least eight at Udewalawe NP on 8th and three at Horton Plains on 12th.

White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata Common in cultivation and rice fields around Kitulgula and Sinharaja, and three at Sigiriya on 15th.

Trip Report: Sri Lanka, 2-16 February 2012

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Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata Widely recorded in small numbers.

Black-throated Munia Lonchura kelaarti Proved to be quite straightforward this year with four at Kitulgula on 4th, followed by two near the Blue Magpie on 5th to 7th. Often separated from Black-throated or Rufous-bellied Munia of south India, which becomes L. jerdoni. However, this split is not recognised by Rasmussen & Anderton (2005), who can find no evidence to justify this treatment.

Black-headed Munia Lonchura malacca Common at Udewalawe NP. Others noted at Debarawewa tank on 9th, Horton Plains on 12th and Sigiriya on 15th.

Forest Wagtail Dendronanthus indicus This delightful wagtail, with its swaggering gait is always a highlight of this tour. Yet another winter visitor that we failed to find in its usual abundance this time. In fact, just one bird on this tour, albeit seen extremely well, at Victoria Park in Nuwara Eliya on 11th.

Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava A male of the race M. f. beema at Kalametiya on 8th, and a male which appeared to be of the race M. f. thunbergi at Bundala on 9th.

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Noted on seven dates at five locations ranging from the river at Kitulgula to the stream in Victoria Park at Nuwara Eliya.

Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus At least 15 at Udewalawe NP and 20+ at Kalametiya on 8th, followed by 20+ at Bundala NP on 9th and 10+ at Yala NP on 10th. Also 10+ at Horton Plains on 12th. The form occurring in Sri Lanka is A. r. malayanus. Paddyfield Pipit was formerly treated as a race of the wide-ranging Richard’s Pipit A. novaeseelandiae, although this taxon is now restricted to New Zealand, with Richard’s Pipit of northern Asia becoming A. richardi.

Blyth’s Pipit Anthus godlewskii Following good numbers at Udewalawe NP in November, only four were seen or heard this time. Most identified by call but some seen extremely well.

ANNOTATED LIST OF MAMMALS

Names and sequence follow Duff, A, and Lawson, A. (2004) Mammals of the World: A checklist. A&C Black, London. Black-naped Hare Lepus nigricollis

Three at Bundala NP on 9th and one at Yala NP the next day. At least three seen before dawn during the drive to Horton Plains on 12th.

Sri Lankan Giant Squirrel Rafula macroura Ones and twos of the dark, Wet Zone form noted at Kitulgula and Sinharaja. A paler form occupies the Dry Zone, which we saw at Sigiriya on 15th.

Layard’s Palm Squirrel Funambulus layardi One at Sinharaja on 7th. Indian Palm Squirrel Funambulus palmarum

Widespread throughout the lowlands. Dusky Striped Squirrel Funambulus sublineatus (=Dusky Palm Squirrel)

This highland replacement for Indian Palm Squirrel. Singles at Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya, on 11th and Horton Plains the next day.

Black (House) Rat Rattus rattus One or two in the stream flowing through Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya. Indian Grey Mongoose Herpestes edwardsii

One en route to Nuwara Eliya on 11th. Ruddy Mongoose Herpestes smithii

One en route to Embilimpitiya on 7th and at least three at Yala NP on 10th. Golden Jackal Canis aureus

One at Udewalawe NP on 8th and two at Yala on 10th. Leopard Panthera pardus Two resting in trees at Yala NP on 10th.

Trip Report: Sri Lanka, 2-16 February 2012

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Jungle Cat Felis chaus One after dark while returning from Yala NP on 10th. Small Indian Civet Viverricula indica One dead by the roadside at Debarawewa on 10th. Indian Flying Fox Pteropus giganteus

Widely recorded. The huge roost in the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens in Kandy must be one of the largest anywhere within southern Asia. Impressive in flight!

Tufted Grey Langur Presbytis entellus (= Common Langur) Regularly seen in dry forest, with groups seen at Kalametiya, Bundala and Yala NPs, and also several at Sigiriya.

Purple-faced Leaf Monkey Presbytis vetulus vetulus Regularly seen and occasionally seen at Sinharaja forest.

Bear Monkey Presbytis vetulus senex This shaggier-coated highland race of the previous species was heard at Horton Plains on 12th.

Toque Macaque Macaca sinica A common and widespread species, particularly in the Dry Zone and in particular at the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens in Kandy.

Wild Boar Sus scrofa At least ten at Yala NP on 10th and one at Udewattekele Forest Reserve in Kandy on 14th.

Sambar Cervus unicolor Two small herds totalling approximately 30 animals at Horton Plains on 12th. Spotted Deer Axis axis (Axis or Chital)

Two at Udewalawe NP on 8th and 20+ at Yala NP on 10th. Feral Water Buffalo Bubakus bubalis

Noted at Udewalawe and Yala NPs, where some males displayed an impressive spread of horns. Indian Elephant Elephas maximus

At least ten at Udewalawe NP on 8th and a mother and calf at Yala NP on 10th.

REPTILES AND AMPHIBIANS The following species were identified (mostly by Tharanga!) during the tour. Mugger Crocodylus palustris Southern House Gecko Hemidactylus frenatus Green Garden Lizard Calotes calotes Common Garden Lizard Calotes versicolor Sri Lanka Kangaroo Lizard Otocryptis wiegmanni Common Indian Monitor Varanus bengalensis Water Monitor Varanus salvator Rat Snake Ptyas mucosus Hard-shelled terrapin sp. Soft-shelled terrapin sp. BUTTERFLIES Thanks go to Tharanga and Georgina for the identification of so many of Sri Lanka’s beautiful butterflies, and to everyone else who helped locate and identify these stunning insects with their wonderfully outlandish names. Reference was also made to http://www.jetwingeco.com/files/pdf/pages_625.pdf Danaidae Plain Tiger Danaus chrysippus Common Tiger Danaus genutia Blue Glassy Tiger Danaus similis Common Indian Crow Euploea core Sri Lanka Tree Nymph Idea iasonia Satyridae Nigger Orsotriaena medus

Trip Report: Sri Lanka, 2-16 February 2012

23 • © Limosa Holidays & The Travelling Naturalist

Nymphalidae Common Sailor Neptis hylas Peacock Pansy Precis almana Cruiser Vindula erota Clipper Parthenos sylvia Pieridae Common Grass Yellow Eurema hecabe Common Jezebel Delias eucharis Lemon Emigrant Catopsilia Pomona Small Salmon Arab Colotis amata Psyche Leptosia nina nina Papillionidae Blue Mormon Papilio polymnestor Common Birdwing Troides darsius Common Rose Pachliopta aristolochiae Crimson Rose Pachliopta hector Common Jezebel Delias eucharis