planting instructions

SPRING/SUMMER 2016

sarahraven.com

SWEET PEA SEEDLINGS CUT FLOWER SEEDLINGS CONTAINER PLANTS PERENNIAL SEEDLINGS CLIMBERS

VEGETABLE AND SALAD SEEDLINGS TOMATO SEEDLINGS HERB SEEDLINGS

BOOK 2

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sweet pea seedlings

Sweet pea seedlings Sweet peas are hardy annuals. They are the best climbers for the cutting or vegetable patch, giving you arches, teepees and tunnels to bring a third dimension into the garden, and they produce the most extraordinary and beautiful scents.

Planting out You want to get your sweet pea plants into the garden as soon as possible after they arrive. Pick a mild spell and plant them out. If the frosts aren’t over, it is best to unwrap your plants and pot them on, keeping them inside and watered whilst you wait for a frost-free day.

1. Before you plant your sweet peas, create a climbing frame (see below).

2. Dig in a barrow load of organic material around its base. Farmyard manure is good for sweet peas. It helps retain water on a freely drained soil and gently feeds these hungry plants. A traditional technique to decrease the need for watering through their flowering season is to add torn up newspaper to the base of each planting hole.

3. Water and plant them (I use a deep trowel), about 5cm away from the base of the support of your climbing frame.

4. Surround the seedlings with slug prevention. I use a foot wide strip of washed inland sharp sand, two inches deep, all round mine. It acts as a path for picking later on and should keep the slugs at bay.

5. As the young plants begin to grow, tie them into the frame – don’t leave them to flop around. Flexi-tie is ideal for this (see our website), but you can use twine. They’ll grow more quickly and make stronger plants tied in regularly, once a fortnight for the first month and then more often when they start to romp away.

6. If you garden on poor soil, feed your plants with a general fertilizer every couple of weeks. Once they’re in flower, it’s a good idea on any soil to feed with a Potash-rich fertiliser to prolong flowering. At Perch Hill we try to do this every couple of weeks when the plants are flowering at full tilt.

contents2 Sweet pea seedlings4 Cut flower seedlings5 Container plants

Alyssum to Viola

8 Perennial seedlings Cosmos to Verbena bonariensis

10 Climbers Cobaea to Thunbergia

10 Vegetable and salad seedlings

10 Tomato seedlings12 Herb seedlings

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sweet pea seedlings

7. Professional and serious amateur growers will tell you to pinch out all the curly stems. They take energy from the flowers, and attach themselves to flower stems and bend them into curves. It’s a lot of work on the scale of a tunnel. I try to remove any I see while I pick, but I don’t get bogged down.

8. Then just let them get on with it and pick, pick, pick. If you see any seedpods as you’re cutting, snip these off as well. You don’t want your plants forming seed or it will stop the plants producing flowers.

9. When they come to an end, you can collect some pods and seeds for sowing next year. If you have grown several different kinds, they may have cross-pollinated and you’ll end up with a mixed bag, but they should all have good scent.

Climbing frames and systemsA teepee made from silver birch, or hazel is very easy to make and looks lovely:

1. Push a circle of eight branches, each 2.5m high, into the ground, sinking them about 20cm deep so they’re securely anchored. The circle should be about one metre across.

2. Gather the uprights together with a piece of Flexi-tie or twine (see our website) at the top.

3. Then in two or three horizontal layers arranged regularly up from ground level, gather all the side twigs at that level into a bundle in your hands and twist and bind them in to a band, moving round from one upright to the next. Bind their twisty ends securely (you can finish tying them off with Flexi-tie or string).

4. If you use canes, or your branches aren’t twiggy enough to make a real witches broom, add smaller sticks or circles of string at the base. You need these to give the plants enough handholds to attach themselves to and climb.

I love growing sweet peas up over a hazel stick tunnel:

This is home-made, using hazel poles pushed into the ground down both sides of the path, with thinner sticks (willow is perfect) bent in a hoop between the two and tied with a bit of wire and twine.

1. Whichever wood you’re using, you’ll need some lengths about 4-5cm thick and 2m high. These will be the uprights. For every pair of uprights, you want one thinner stick, approximately 2cm thick. This will make the hoop over the top and so needs to be 1½ times the width of your path.

2. Position the uprights in groups of four with each upright about 20-30cm from the next. Allow 90-120cm between the groups. Using a rubber hammer, sink the sticks at least 20cm into the ground so they stand straight and sturdy. The climbers benefit from a strong, robust frame.

3. Once they’re all in the ground, secure the group of four uprights together with a horizontal length, nailed in or tied, one at the top of the vertical posts and another half way up. Mirror this group of four on the other side of the path.

4. Hoop the thinner sticks over to form the roof and tie these on to the uprights. This needs two people. We use Flexi-tie (see our website).

5. After you have completed each of the groups, tie in horizontal sticks 4cm thick all the way down the tunnel along the apex of the hoops. This unites the structure and strengthens it against the wind.

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cut flower seedlings

Layering sweet peasIf you want sweet peas with spectacularly long stems, perfectly straight with lots of large flowers on one stem, it’s a good idea to layer them – but this does involve tons of work.

1. Create an A frame from 2.5m straight hazel or bamboo sticks, one stick per plant.

2. When your plants arrive, remove all but one stem growing from the base. Plant them out (as above).

3. As this one stem grows, pinch out all side branches (like with tomatoes) as they form. The energy then goes into one momentous stem, which will develop into something the width of a finger, rather than bushing out into several thinner shoots.

4. As they grow, regularly tie the stem onto its cane.

5. When they start to flower, pick, pick, pick.

6. Once the stems reach the tops of their canes, untie them and run them along the ground, to three canes further along. Then train the tip of the plant onto that cane and continue to tie them is as they grow. This of course doubles the amount of flowers you can pick before having to pinch out the tips as they reach the top of their cane.

Cut flower seedlings These seedlings are best potted on once into a small pot (9 or 10cm) before planting into their final position. Prepare the planting spot well. You want soil with a fine tilth (or texture) which you can create with a garden rake. Add plenty of organic matter (municipal waste compost, well-rotted farmyard manure, leaf mould or home-made compost) before planting.

Hardy annuals These varieties can take a few degrees of frost. Plant 30cm apart, at plug depth in the ground, in a sunny or partially shady spot. Dig planting holes deep and wide enough so that the roots are covered. Water the ground before planting and water them in well if the ground is dry. Water again, with a flood, not a sprinkle, every 5-7 days (if no rain) to encourage roots to be drawn down deep. Then you should be able to stop watering. Deadhead regularly to prolong flowering.

AmmiAnchusaAnethum graveolensBorageBriza Bupleurum rotundifoliumCalendulaCentaurea

CerintheComfreyEschscholziaEuphorbiaHelianthusLarkspurMalopeNigella

OrlayaPrimulaSalvia viridisScabiousVerbena rigidaVerbena bonariensis Viola

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container plants

Half-hardy annuals When you receive your half-hardy flower seedlings, you will need to harden them off if there is still a risk of frost. To do this, simply pot on the plugs into a 9cm pot. Leave them outside during the day in a bright and sunny spot and cover them with horticultural fleece or bring them in at night. Do this for a fortnight or so until the frosts in your area are finished. Then plant your seedlings directly into the soil, 30cm apart at plug depth in the ground, in a sunny or partially shady spot. Follow the same watering regime as above. Deadhead regularly to prolong flowering.

Container plantsThese seedlings are best potted on once into a small pot (9 or 10cm) when you receive them, before planting into their final position. When you have chosen the ideal pot for your plants, mark out the position with a plant label or empty pot – to make sure you space them correctly. Remove plants from their pot and soak them for twenty minutes if they are dry. Dig planting holes deep and wide enough so that the roots are covered. Firm the soil down around each plant, and water well. We plant 5 per 40cm (16in) pot. Deadhead regularly to prolong flowering and feed containers though out the growing season.

Alyssum A semi-trailing super-scented flowerer which will flower to the frosts. Happy in full sun. Hardy annual. a May-October. H.20cm

Anagallis monellii A fantastic deep blue, which will flower all summer long. Hardy annual. a June-October.H.15-20cm

Arctotis Easy, reliable plants that flower with minimal TLC. Hardy annual. a July-November. H.40cm

Argyranthemum Flowers continually with the minimal of care. Tender perennial, sometimes grown as a half-hardy annual. a May-November. H.30-50cm

Artemisia Likes full sun in well-drained soil, suitable for rock gardens. Trim in autumn to keep in shape. Divide every 3 years. Perennial. a foliage all year and small flower in late summer. H.30cm

Bacopa Tumbling, evergreen stems bear a mass of pure white flowers throughout summer. Half-hardy annual. a June-October H.15cm

Basil A super edible container plant. Choose a sunny spot and provide good drainage for a summer long display. Tender perennial. a April-October. H.75cm

Begonia Plant in a sunny position in fertile soil or compost. Feed weekly with a high potassium feed (eg comfrey pellets) Store the tuber in dry, dark and frost-free compost over winter and start them off again in the spring. Tender perennial a July-October. H.30cm.

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AgeratumAmaranthusAntirrhinumCleomeCosmos bipinnatusDidiscus

GauraHelianthus ‘Vanilla Ice’Ipomoea lobataNasturtiumNicotianaPanicum

RudbeckiaSalvia patensTagetesTithoniaZinnia

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container plants

Brachyscome Choose a sunny position and ensure the container has good drainage. Can withstand drought conditions. Regular deadheading will encourage new flowers over a long period. a June-October. H.30-40cm.

Buddleia ‘Lavender’ Flowers long and hard through the summer and autumn. As soon as the sun comes out, it will be covered in butterflies and bees. Prune annually to 15cm. Sub-shrub. a June-September. Trailing 60cm

Calibrachoa The ideal splash of strong colour. You need the odd zap of these – long-flowering and easy to grow. Best grown in pot/container. Half-hardy annual. a July-October. H.20-30cm

Convolvulus cneorum An invaluable evergreen, which will last for years. Evergreen shrub. a May-July. H.60cm

Convolvulus mauritanicus This is not as invasive as the common bindweed but does have a tendency to twine itself around neighbouring plants. It is reasonably easy to keep in check with regular monitoring and trimming as required and very low maintenance. Tender perennial a June-September. H.15-30cm, trailing up to 60cm

Cosmos sonata The ultimate container plant, flowering prolifically for four or five months. Half-hardy annual. a July-first frosts. H.45-60cm

Cuphea A delightful compact, bushy spreading evergreen shrub, perfect for containers. Best in well-drained soil or compost in a sunny position, can cope with some shade. Over winter in a frost free position and prune in the spring if necessary. Half-hardy annual. a July-October. H.45cm

Dahlia Plant in full sun in moist but well-drained soil. May need support. a July-October. H.90cm

Dianthus ‘Green Trick’ Feed regularly with rose or tomato fertiliser, and keep as moist as possible, although they do tolerate dry weather. When the main stem has finished flowering, pick or cut off the stem at the base of the plant, to keep it tidy and encourage repeat flowering. Hardy perennial. a June-August. H.50cm See page 9 for English Garden Pinks

Echeveria An easy to grow succulent, an elegant addition to paths, pots or outdoor table centres. Ensure the compost is very free-draining. These are shallow-rooted plants so ensure that there are good levels of organic matter in the compost. Once established can cope with extended dry periods. Tender perennial. a June-September H.7-10cm

Erigeron karvinskianus Masses of tiny daisies turning from white to pink. Can be grown in most well drained soils (or paths and walls) in full sun or shade. Very tolerant. Perennial. a April-November H.25cm

Euphorbia ‘Diamond Frost’ An amazing foliage plant and fantastic value. It will keep flowering in your pots with clouds of white or acid green flowers. To edge a terrace or line some steps. A great container plant but can also be gown in the ground. Hardy annual. a May-December. H.20cm

Gaura Long stems of butterfly-like flowers. This is fantastic in drifts and looks wonderful in pots – a white or pink ethereal cloud to edge a terrace or line some steps. Do not prune before winter and prevent winter wet. Tender perennial. a June-October. H.55-90cm

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container plants

Gypsophila Delicate deep pink flowers – lovely as a potted table centre. Likes full sun and well-drained compost. Hardy annual. a May-September. H.38cm

Heliotrope Particularly in the evening, it will fill its spot with perfume, so plant it by your doors and windows so the scent can drift in through the evening. Half-hardy annual. a June-October. H.45cm

Ipomoea ‘Sweetheart Light Green’ and ‘Sweetheart Purple’ They’ll look fantastic trailing out of any pot. Half-hardy annual. a June-December. H.25cm, trailing.

Lavender An excellent scented perennial for hot, sunny pots. Trim the flowers before they are over in mid August and use them to make biscuits and lavender bags. Hardy perennial. a June-August. H.90cm

Lippia citriodora (Lemon Verbena) A sweet smelling tender perennial plant, excellent for making herbal tea. Best in full sun and well-drained soil or compost. Keep moist but do not over water. Protect in winter. Tender perennial. a July-September. H.30cm

Lotus bethelotii Likes free-draining soil or compost. Half-hardy annual. a May-September. H.20cm

Nicotiana Fantastic night scent. Fertile, moist but well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. Half-hardy annual. Picking flowers will encourage lateral growth and prolong flowering. a June-November. H.90cm

Osteospermum Masses of flat, daisy type flowers all summer long if deadheaded. Excellent for containers or ground cover. Likes well-drained soil in full sun. Hardy annual. a June-October. H.30cm

Petunia Tumbling out of any pot, large or small, these velvety-textured flowers are irresistible. They flower for months and months with minimal care. Best grown in pot or container. Half-hardy annual. a May-October. H.20cm

Phlox An excellent and easy container plant, flowering all summer long and good for cutting too. Half-hardy annual. a May-October. H.25cm

Scaevola Pretty white flowers and trailing foliage, perfect for a sunny spot in a pot or hanging basket. Free draining soil in full sun/partial shade. Hardy annual. a June-October. H.30cm

Thunbergia (see Climbers p.10)

Verbena Trailing verbenas are one of the best ever plants for classy containers. These ones have good mildew resistance. If you deadhead them, they will give you colour from May until the frosts, or until Christmas or longer in a conservatory or greenhouse. Best grown in pots or containers. Half-hardy annual. a May-November. Trailing.

Viola Beautiful velvet flowers that never stop coming. They’re edible, so I grow them with lettuce too. a April-October. H.15cm

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perennial seedlings

Perennial seedlings Cosmos atrosanguineus (Chocolate Cosmos) When you receive your plants Plant into 9cm pots and keep in a cool, frost-free place in full light. When the roots have filled the 9cm pot, pot them on into a 2 litre pot or plant them in their final position (when the frosts are over). Pinch out the tips of the main shoots as they grow, once they have reached 12-15cm, to encourage bushy and strong growth. Soil and site Fertile soil with good moisture and drainage. Spacing Plant 30cm apart. Special requirements Scatter over some Fish, Blood and Bone Fertiliser on planting. If you garden in the north, conserve your plants for next year by digging them up in the autumn. Cut them down to 15cm and plant in pots to be stored frost free inside until next spring. If you don’t have very harsh frosts in your area, protect them from the frosts with a good mulch. Division Every 2-3 years. a July-October. ‘Chocamocha’ H.45cm / ‘Chocolate’ H.90cm S.30cm

Chrysanthemums Our chrysanthemums are sent out in sets of 6 rooted cuttings, to pot on and plant out. Outdoor varieties are happiest grown in full sun and shelter, in well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter added. Indoor varieties can be grown in the garden in 2 litre pots, sunk in the ground and lifted to bring into the greenhouse, conservatory or sunny porch when the weather gets cold.

Indoor chrysanthemums – C. Anastasia Green’ C.‘Froggy’, C.‘Porto Purple’, C. ‘Erebus White’, C. ‘Spider White’ and C. ‘Louis Germ White’These chrysanthemum varieties should ideally be grown indoors – a greenhouse or protected growing space of some kind – and will then flower from the middle to the end of November until Christmas. Soil and site If you have soil beds in your greenhouse, the rooted cuttings can be planted direct at spacing of 30-40cm and watered in well. Or grow them in large pots, about 35-40cm in diameter, filled with John Innes No 2 compost, one cutting per pot. Water in well. Insert a stake at their side which you will need to tie them into as they grow. Pots can be placed outside in a sunny, sheltered spot, after the frosts have finished. Special requirements Stop the plants (pinch the top off) 10-14 days after planting, down to 3 or 4 leaves up from the base of the plant, to encourage side branches, which will form the flowering stems. Water freely during the summer and give them a balanced feed every two weeks from midsummer till the flower buds start to appear. Bring inside again in September before the autumn gales arrive, and pick the flowers from there. Cut the plants back when they finish flowering and store frost free. See below for propagation of more plants for next year.

Outdoor chrysanthemumsWhen you receive your rooted cuttings Pot them up into 7 or 9cm pots (any soil-free compost will do) and grow them anywhere light and frost-free – a cold frame, conservatory or greenhouse – until the roots have filled this pot. Soil and site Plant them outside in their flowering positions, 30cm apart. They love a sunny, sheltered site with protection from strong winds, in a well-drained but fertile soil, with some organic matter dug in. After planting, water generously for 1-2 weeks so the plants get well established. Stake every plant securely with their own stake. Special requirements Stop the plants (pinch the top off) 10-14 days after planting, down to three or four leaves up from the base of the plant, to encourage side branches, which will form the flowering stems. You can use this as a cutting (see propagating, below). They will also benefit from a general fertilizer feed once a month. Once

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perennial seedlings

the plants have flowered, either dig them up and bring the whole root inside to propagate from in the early spring, as they shoot, or mulch them deeply to get them through the winter and take new cuttings from your plants in the garden. Extra notes At Perch Hill, newly grown cuttings grow and flower better rather than the 2nd year plants, so propagate new plants every year and discard the old. Note: You can grow any of these varieties under cover too. With protection from wind and rain, you will then get a longer harvest of flowers than you do outside.

Propagating chrysanthemum cuttingsThis could not be easier to do. When the root starts to shoot in spring, remove a few of the burgeoning stems, 8-10cm long, with a sharp knife from as near the base of the plant as you can. Push them into a gritty mix of compost, 4 or 5 to a medium sized pot, around the outside, and if possible put them in a propagator with a bit of bottom heat. Keep the compost moist and they should root in 3-4 weeks. Pot them up individually when you see roots at the bottom of the pot. And then start at the top of these instructions again.

Dianthus (English Garden Pinks)Soil and site Full sun, well-drained soil. Avoid winter wet. Spacing Plant 30cm apart. Special requirements Do not plant too close to other plants where air movement might be restricted. Feed regularly with rose or tomato fertiliser (see our website), and keep as moist as possible, although they do tolerate dry weather. Deadhead to prolong flowering. Division Every 3 years or propagate from cuttings. a June-October. H.30-50cm S.30cm

Erysimum ‘Winter Orchid’Soil and site Moist but well-drained soil in sun or partial shade. Spacing Plant 40cm apart. Special requirements Mulch well in summer to prevent water loss. Division Propagate from cuttings. a April-July. H.30-60cm S.40-50cm

Pelargonium TENDERSoil and site Our pelargoniums can be planted straight out into your gardens or conservatories, or pot them up into larger pots. Pelargoniums, commonly but incorrectly known as geraniums, are very versatile plants. They can be grown as bedding outside during the summer months, or in containers, but they must be brought inside before the onset of frost. They also make ideal houseplants and are fantastic decorating a conservatory. For maximum effect, plant scented-leaved pelargoniums in places where you will brush against them or along the edge of a path. In containers Grow in loam-less potting compost or in John Innes No 2 in full light, but with shade from hot sun, and good ventilation. Water sparingly during the growing season and feed with a high potash feed such as tomarite every fortnight. Water even more sparingly during the winter. If kept at 7-10°c plants may flower over winter. Otherwise cut them back by two thirds and keep them almost dry. Outdoors Plant in fertile moist soil after all risk of frost has passed. Most cultivars prefer full sun but regal pelargoniums, eg ‘Lord Bute’, prefer part shade. Lift bedding plants before the frost, cutting top growth by one third. Pot on in late winter as growth resumes. Special requirements Deadhead all pelargoniums regularly. Please be aware that contact with the foliage may occasionally aggravate skin allergies. a June-November. H.25-45cm S.20cm

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climbers

Penstemon TENDERSoil and site Full sun, partial shade in fertile, well-drained soil. Spacing Plant 45cm apart. Special requirements Deadhead to prolong flowering. Leave old growth on over winter and prune in late spring when new shoots appear. Division Every 3-4 years in spring. Tender perennial. a July-October. H.50-70cm S.40cm

Salvia ‘Amistad’ TENDER Soil and site Full sun, well-drained. Semi-hardy but may need protection in very cold areas. a May-October H.1m S.60cm

Verbena bonariensis SHORT-LIVED Soil and site Well-drained soil in sunny position. Spacing Plant 40cm apart. Special requirements Will self sow. Division Short-lived perennial, so not applicable. a July-November. H.1.5-2m S.40cm

Climbers Cobaea scandens Soil and site Full sun, in a sheltered position, in moist but well-drained soil. Spacing Plant 15cm apart at the base of a frame or wall. Special requirements Water well in dry periods. a July-first frosts (in a greenhouse, may flower almost all year). H.6m S.50-100cm

Ipomoea lobata Soil and site Full sun, in moist but well-drained soil. Spacing Plant 10cm apart at the base of a frame or wall. Special requirements Tie in gently as plant grows. Do not overfeed with nitrogen or you will get leaf at the expense of flower. a July-first frosts. H.2.1m

Rhodochiton atrosanguineus Soil and site Fertile, humus-rich, moist but well-drained soil. Spacing Plant 50cm apart. Special requirements Water freely and apply a balanced liquid fertiliser once a month. a July-first frosts. H.2-2.5m S.35-50cm

Thunbergia Soil and site Full sun, in moist but well-drained soil. Spacing Plant 60cm apart. Special requirements Water freely and apply a balanced liquid fertiliser once a month. ‘Susie White Black Eye’ a June-October, H.1.2m S.35-50cm / ‘African Sunset’ a July-first frosts. H.2-2.5m S.35-50cm

Veg and salad seedlingsHardy annual veg and salad seedlingsThese seedlings can go straight into the ground, a window box or a container. They are best grown in full sun with regular watering.

Allow enough space for your veg and salad to grow on:Salad Rows 30cm apart, plants 20cm apartBeans, broad Rows 25cm apart, plants 20cm apartBeetroot Plants 15cm apartChard Rows 45cm apart, plants 25cm apartPeas Rows 23cm apart, plants 25cm apartSpring onions Plants 15cm apart

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veg and salad seedlings

Half-hardy annual veg and salad seedlingsThese need hardening off and should not be planted out until the frosts are over. To do this, simply pot on the plugs into a 9cm pot (or directly into the pots you are going to grow them in). Leave them outside during the day in a bright and sunny spot and cover them with horticultural fleece or bring them in at night. Do this for a fortnight or so until the frosts in your area and finished. Then plant your seedlings directly into the soil, at plug depth in the ground, in a sunny or partially shady spot. Water regularly.

Allow enough space for your veg and salad to grow on:Beans, French Rows 20cm apart, plants 20cm apartBeans, runner Rows 60cm apart, plants 30cm apart – create a wigwam of canes for them to climbCourgettes Plants 90cm apartCucumbers Plants 1m apart if growing on the ground, or train them up trellis or canes planted in a potTomatoes See full instructions below How to plant tomatoesRing culture pots These are special tomato-growing pots, divided into an inner chamber for the feeding roots (which look like green fingers) and an outer, deeper chamber, which connects with the water roots, which are created more deeply in the soil. By using these pots, feeding only into the central chamber, and watering only into the outer, you direct the feed to the right roots and the water the same. This has been proven to increase yield and improve flavour. We have tested these now for several years and they work very well. See our website for more details.

In the ground in a greenhouse Prepare the ground by adding well-rotted manure or a soil-based compost like John Innes no.2 or 3 to enrich the soil. Plant 50cm apart in a ring culture pot and stake well. If not using a ring culture pot, plant as deeply as possible. In the soil outside, it’s best to wait until June to plant your tomatoes outside in a sheltered spot. Then plant as above.

In a Grow Bag Plant approx. 40cm apart, ideally in ring culture pots and stake well.

In a pot Choose a large pot (at least 5 litres) and fill with good compost (John Innes no.2 or 3). Plant the tomato seedling in a ring culture pot placed in the top of the larger pot and stake well with a bamboo cane.

Aftercare Tie your tomato plants into their canes as often as you can as they grow, and pinch out the side shoots, forming between the main stem and the leaves every week or so. Any side shoot breaking directly from the main stem, not just above a leaf, is a flowering (not a side) shoot and should NOT be pinched.

Feeding Water and feed your tomatoes regularly. We recommend comfrey juice or Organic Tomato Liquid Plant Food. See our website for more details.

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herb seedlings

Herb seedlingsHardy annuals These seedlings can go straight into the ground, a window box or a container. They are best grown in full sun with regular watering.Allow enough space to grow on:Parsley 30cm apart in the ground or closer in 1 or 2 litre pots

Half-hardy annual herbsThese need hardening off and should not be planted out until the frosts are over. Follow instructions for half-hardy flowers, above.Allow enough space to grow on:Basil 20cm apart in the ground or closer in 1 or 2 litre pots Coriander 5cm apart in the ground or closer in 2 litre pot.

Perennials and evergreens These seedlings can go straight into the ground, a window box or a container. They are best grown in full sun with regular watering.Allow enough space to grow on:Chamomile 30cm apart or in a 2 litre potChives 30cm apart in the ground or closer in 1 or 2 litre potsLemongrass (TENDER) 30cm apart or in a 2 litre potLemon verbena (TENDER) 40cm apart or in a 1 or 2 litre potMint 20cm apart or in a 1 or 2 litre pot, best grown in a container as can runRosemary 45cm apart or one per two litre potTarragon (TENDER) 40cm apart or in a 1 or 2 litre potThyme 30cm apart or in a 2 litre pot

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BULBS IN THE GREEN PERENNIAL & BIENNIAL PLANTS ROSES CLIMBERS SHRUBS CONSERVATORY PLANTS

KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS

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