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Advertising Supplement to the Sun Journal, Friday, March 25, 2011 Gasoline by the numbers The 21st century tune-up Tighten that belt and more...

Spring Car Care 3-25-11

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Spring Car Care 2011: Gasoline by the numbers, Tighten that belt, The 21st century tune-up, and more.

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Page 1: Spring Car Care 3-25-11

Adv

ertis

ing

Sup

ple

men

t to

the

Sun

Jour

nal,

Frid

ay, M

arch

25,

201

1

Gasoline by the numbers

The 21st century tune-upTighten that belt

and more...

Page 2: Spring Car Care 3-25-11

We know what they are and we know what they do, but do we know how to take care of them? Most of us don’t think about our tires until they are flat, but not only will proper tire maintenance save you money, it could save your life.

Check all four tires when they’re “cold” (before startup) or after the car has set for at least three hours. Be sure to occasionally check your spare tire also. You will find the recommended psi (pounds per square inch) in the vehicle owner’s manual or on the driver’s side doorjamb; some vehicles may also have

the information inside the fuel hatch filler f lap or the glove compartment door.

• DO NOT rely on the pressure indicated on the tire; that is the maximum psi and does not take into account driving conditions and situations (speed, load, etc.).

• Your tire gauge will tell you how much pressure is in the tire. If it’s under the recommendation, add some air... BUT DON’T OVERINFLATE.

Because air expands when it’s hot and contracts when it’s cold, it’s best to inf late your tires in the morning before the day’s heat. Underinflated tires

have greater friction with the road, causing your car to work harder and be less fuel-efficient; under inf lat ion also causes unnecessary wear on tires.

Next check the wear on your tires. If the wear is excessive, you will see a smoothness that has replaced tread. A way to check tread wear is to enlist the help of our 16th president.

Place a penny into the tire’s groove with Lincoln’s head upside down and facing toward you. If you can see the top of “honest Abe’s” head, it’s time for a new tire. Any tread depth less than 1/16 inch is not only dangerous, but is illegal in many states.

Your driving style has an effect on the health and longevity of your tires. Do you drive fast? Driving at high speeds generates heat and will reduce the life of the tread. It’s also important to consider what you’re driving over. Avoid potholes, curbs, road kill and other obstructions.

Another way to keep your tires in good working order is to

rotate them every 5,000 to 6,000 miles. Rotating your tires allows them to wear more evenly. If the tires are original to your vehicle, your owner’s manual will tell

you when to rotate. If they are replacements, the shop that installed them will recommend a schedule. Being aware of the age of your tires is essential for safety. Because aged tires can deteriorate from the inside, it is recommended that tires over six years old not be used. Federal regulations require that a DOT Tire Identification Number be branded on the tire’s sidewall. At the end of the ID number is the week and year of the tire’s production: 2309 or 239 means the 23rd week of 2009.

Be aware of the age of your tires and replace accordingly. These simple tips require little t ime when compared to the consequences of ignoring them. Proper tire maintenance is just one more step toward making sure your vehicle runs properly and safely.

Advertising Supplement to the Sun Journal, Lewiston, Maine, Friday, March 25, 20112 SPRING CAR CARE

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By Craig W. Armstrong

Don’t let your tires tire

7 automotive myths revealedMany dr ivers would admit their technical knowledge is lacking. The following are some of the most common myths and misconceptions about vehicles.

Myth 1: Higher octane fuel causes all cars to run better.

Fuels are rated according to how they prevent detonation in the

Check your tire pressure regularly, monthly and before long trips. You can purchase a traditional pencil gauge or an easy-to-read digital gauge. Public pressure gauges are subject to abuse and may not be reliable.

7 mythspage 3 ‰

Page 3: Spring Car Care 3-25-11

Advertising Supplement to the Sun Journal, Lewiston, Maine, Friday, March 25, 2011 SPRING CAR CARE 3

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7 mythsfrom page 2

engine. Higher performance engines generally have higher compression ratios and are more prone to detonation. Unless a driver hears engine pinging or knocking, switching to a higher octane will not improve performance due to the engine design. Drivers can save their money and stick with “regular.”

Myth 2: You must service your vehicle at the dealership or the warranty will be voided.

It is illegal for dealerships to force service be done strictly

at t he dealership. Rout ine maintenance can be done by other vendors. Find out if certain after-market parts installation may affect the warranty, but even these should be okay.

Myth 3: Idling uses less gas than restarting the engine.

Drivers don’t have to sit idling, wasting gas and contributing to added emissions. Restarting a warm engine does not use more fuel than idling a car.

Myth 4: All wheel drive makesa vehicle invincible in inclement weather including rain.

AWD can provide some added traction going up a snowy hill or coming out of a turn on a rain-slicked surface, but it doesn’t make a vehicle invincible. AWD will do little to help a driver avoid road hazards or grip the pavement in corners.

Myth 5: Side mirrors are properly adjusted when a driver can see the side of the car in each.

In fact , they are improperly adjusted if the sides of the car can be viewed.

Moving out the mirrors just a bit more reduces the need to

look over a shoulder to check for blind spots, which takes a driver’s eyes off the road.

Myth 6: All-season tires offer more traction in the rainy seasons.

Unless a person lives in a locale with considerable snowfall , it ’s best to avoid all-season tires. A standard tire has more grip, both wet and dry, than an equivalent all-season tire.

Myth 7: Ant i lock brak ing systems were designed to create shorter stopping distances so there’s no need to worry about driving too close to the car in front of you.

ABS actually was created to enable a driver to steer out of danger and not spin out while bra k i ng. Shor ter s toppi ng distances may occur, but they’re a side effect of the design.

BUYING A NEW CATALYTIC CONVERTER?

First fix the issues that damaged the original one“You need a new cataly t ic converter.” That’s certainly not good news for any vehicle owner, since converters are fairly expensive to replace. However, the job can become even more expensive if your service provider doesn’t fix all of the issues that damaged the original unit.

“Catalytic converters contain no moving parts, so when they fail there is usually another problem that has triggered the failure,” explained Joe Bacarella, an ASE L1 certified master technician who is also technical assistance manager for Tenneco Inc., one of the world’s largest converter

manufacturers. “Unless you resolve those issues before investing in a new converter, you’re probably going to end up with the same complaint down the road.”

Cat a ly t ic c onver t ers help t o c l e a n u p p o i s o n o u s gases produced by internal combustion engines. As the gases f low over a layer of precious metals within the converter, a chemical reaction changes them into carbon dioxide and water vapor.

T he most c om mon t y pe s o f c onver t e r f a i lu r e a r e “poisoning” by ant i f reeze ,

certain engine oil addit ives and chemical sealants; coating or fouling related to carbon

buildup within the engine; oil in the exhaust stream or the use of an improper fuel; internal

melting caused by excessive pollutants in the exhaust; and structural damage from a hard impact. Note that all but one of these failure modes is related to the engine’s operating condition.

To ensure a lasting repair, ask your technician to explain what damaged your original converter. I f he or she can pinpoint the root cause and assure you that it has been corrected, chances are you’re getting a comprehensive repair.

For more information on

converter design, operation and

troubleshooting, visit

www.walkerexhaust.com.

Photo by Ballista

Page 4: Spring Car Care 3-25-11

Sometimes referred to as a car’s “lifeblood,” oil keeps the engine clean and lubricates its parts at the same time. Oil also transfers heat away from the combustion cycle. Sound complicated? It’s really not.

A car’s engine is full of metal surfaces that move at extremely high speeds. I f these parts didn’t have oil between them, they would rub together and the friction would tear them apart. At the same time, the oil is keeping the surfaces apart, it is also transferring heat away.

OK, so that makes sense, but how can something as dirty as

oil keep a car’s engine clean. It’s actually pretty cool. An engine operates by combustion. In the simplest terms, a tiny explosion occurs, causing a piston to go up and down. This part of the process and many others produce many by-products.

These by-products include s i l ic on ox ide a nd ac id s , which can be harmful to the engine’s parts. This is where the cleaning part comes in. Oil holds these contaminates in suspension and keeps them from forming on the engine.

You hear the term viscosity associated with oil. Viscosity is defined as the property of a fluid that resists the force to cause the f luid to f low. Basically that

means how much pressure can it withstand before it moves.

When you see a container of oil marked SAE 10W40, what does it mean? First, the SAE stands for The Society of Automotive Engineers. The numbers tell you about the oil’s viscosity.

The higher the number, the more resistant to flow; the lower the number, the easier it f lows. Oil marked 10W40 means that it can flow at a 10 viscosity grade when it’s cold and a 40 viscosity grade when it’s hot, with the W meaning winter. Keep this in mind: oil gets thicker when it’s cold and thinner when it’s hot.

When it’s cold (which makes oil thicker), it must remain thin enough to f low (10); when it’s hot (which makes oil thinner), it must be able to remain thick enough to do its job (40).

In essence, you’re gett ing oil that can work all year around. With this in mind, let’s say that you live where it gets really cold in the winter and stays mild in the summer. Then an SAE 5W30 oi l might be the best for your car... make sense?

As for how often to get your oil changed... the debate rages on. The safest bet is to go by what the owner’s manual says.

Now you can see why it ’s important to have your oi l changed. It’s got a lot to do and after a while it will lose the ability to work properly. The next time someone says, “I need to get my oil changed,” you can say, “Let me tell you a little something about oil.”

Advertising Supplement to the Sun Journal, Lewiston, Maine, Friday, March 25, 20114 SPRING CAR CARE

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By Craig W. Armstrong

UNDERSTANDING YOUR CAR’S OIL

Getting your car’s oil changed regularly is importantHere are the reasons why

Still confused? For a used car with little life left in it , stick with the cheap mineral-based motor oil. For a car you plan to keep for a few years and want to get a litt le be t t er per for ma nc e f r om , you should at least upgrade to synthetic motor oil. To get the most performance out of your car, truck or RV, or to protect a vehicle you really care about and want to last, upgrade to a high performance motor oil.

To get more information about motor oil and find select auto parts stores near you, go to www.royalpurple.com.

Page 5: Spring Car Care 3-25-11

Prices go up but paychecks of ten stay the same; making ends meet can be tough. One way to confront this problem is with math. You may consider math another four-letter word. However, better understanding where your hard-earned money is going can help you keep your finances in line... and that takes simple math.

One cost that f luctuates a great deal is the cost of gasoline. One week it’s high and the next week it’s probably higher. If you know the mileage your vehicle is getting, however, you might be able to make adjustments and save a few bucks.

Like keeping your home clean, vigilance is the key. Clean out your car once a week. If you spend any time in your car you are going to accumulate “stuff” during the course of a week. To keep these items from taking over the interior, you can throw them away, organize them in the car or move them out of the car.

Although manufacturers indi-cate a vehicle’s city/highway MPG (miles per gallon), those numbers will f luctuate based on the driver and driving condi-tions. So how do you accurately f igure the mileage you are getting with your vehicle?

F irst , prepare a worksheet to record data; you can use a notebook or a computer-generated spreadsheet. Which-ever you choose, make sure you have a column for each of the following: Date (on which you purchase gas) , Odom-eter Reading , Mi les Trav-eled, Gallons and MPG (Miles Per Gal lon) . For budget ing purposes, you may want to keep a record of Amount you spent for gas also. Now head to the gas station and fill up your tank.

Be sure to use the lock on the nozzle handle so that the pump shuts off automatically when the tank is full. Do not top off the tank. Before you leave the gas

station, record the date and the odometer reading and set your trip meter.

When your fuel gauge registers about a quarter of a tank, head back to the gas station and fill up again. This time, record both your Odometer Reading and the number of Gallons (found on the pump) used to fill up your vehicle. You can find Miles Trav-eled in two ways.

You can look at your trip meter (if it hasn’t been accidentally reset) or you can subtract your current odometer reading from the original reading you logged on your worksheet. For example, if your first odometer reading was 46,526 and your current reading is 46,852, you have trav-eled (46,852 minus 46,526) 326 miles. Next divide the miles you have traveled by the number of gallons of gas you just used and you’ll have your miles per gallon. However, this reading is accurate for only this tank of gas. You will want to average several fill-ups to get an accu-rate idea of your vehicle’s MPG.

Averaging is easy; just add your miles per gallon notations and divide by the number of nota-tions listed. For example, if you have recorded four MPG figures on your sheet, 21.4, 20.8, 22.7, 19.7, add them all together for 84.6. Now divide that number by four and you have your average, 21.2 miles per gallon.

See if you can improve your gas mileage. How? The first thing is by performing simple main-tenance. Are the tires properly inf lated? Do you have the oil changed regularly? Is the air filter clean?

Do you let your vehicle idle for long periods of time? Do you often drive in stop-and-go traffic? Are you a speed demon? Do you start quickly and stop suddenly? Making adjustments and then checking your MPG will let you know how much you are saving at the pump. Once you get the hang of it, you might find it fun — imagine that, saving money while having fun with math.

Advertising Supplement to the Sun Journal, Lewiston, Maine, Friday, March 25, 2011 SPRING CAR CARE 5

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GASOLINE BY THE NUMBERS

Simple maintenance improves gas mileageLiving with today’s economy can be a challenge.

Page 6: Spring Car Care 3-25-11

“It ’s l ike a muf f led squeak followed by a high-pitched bong, and sometimes it just hums. It almost sounds like it’s humming that old ABBA song... oh, I can’t remember the name of it, but it sounds like that.”

Is this how you explain to your mechanic the noise your vehicle is making? Have you ever used the word galonk? Have you ever imitated a Madagascar hissing cockroach when describing a noise or mentioned anything about what it would sound like if someone squeezed a duck... really hard? If you answered yes to any of these questions, you probably need help conveying troublesome sounds coming from your vehicle. Cars and trucks make lots of sounds; some are normal and some are a definite indication that something is not functioning properly. Most people have a good idea of which sounds are normal and which ones

need to be checked out. The important thing is to be as accurate as possible when descr ibing those abnormal noises to your mechanic. Like doctors, mechanics need to have a reasonable and thorough explanation of the “patient’s” symptoms; they will rely on you to give them that information.

Be able to explain when you hear the noise. Is it at start-up or when you turn off the vehicle, when you are going uphill or around a curve, when you’re braking or when the gears shift? Be specific in your explanation. Next describe the location of the sound. Rather than using the terms “right” or “left” side of the vehicle, you can avoid confusion by referring to the “driver’s side” and the “passenger’s side.”

Is the noise coming from the engine, underneath the car, f rom the rear, around the tires? You may even want to draw a diagram indicat ing the troublesome spot. Often a mechanic will test-drive your

vehicle and listen for sounds so they can accurately diagnose the problem, but how many times have you taken in your car and it won’t make the noise or “do that thing” for the mechanic?

The main way to avoid this frustration is to be an expert, prepared wit ness. Expla in any and all known “maladies” associated with the noise. There may be vibration or leaking f luid. Explain where you feel the vibration — in the steering wheel, under your feet, etc.

Indicate the locat ion of any leak and the color of the f luid i f possible . Are t here any other noticeable dif ferences in how the vehicle is riding or handling? To repeat : Be thorough and specific in your explanation. Mechanics expect a certain amount of charades from customers (and they probably enjoy them sometimes), but accuracy in your explanation will help them do a better job of repairing your vehicle and getting you back on the road faster.

Advertising Supplement to the Sun Journal, Lewiston, Maine, Friday, March 25, 20116 SPRING CAR CARE

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Playing charades with your mechanic

Page 7: Spring Car Care 3-25-11

Advertising Supplement to the Sun Journal, Lewiston, Maine, Friday, March 25, 2011 SPRING CAR CARE 7

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Steps to avoid engine overheatingI t i s a c om mon s ig ht ma ny a n automobile owner is all too familiar with: A car is stranded on the side of the road with the hood open and smoke billowing out as an exasperated driver looks on shaking his or her head. An overheated engine can render a car useless in a matter of minutes. A vehicle is propelled by an engine that ignites gasoline and causes controlled explosions within. An engine can produce quite a lot of heat.

C o m p o u n d t h i s w i t h e x t e r n a l temperatures and an overheated engine may occur. Other mechanical factors can also cause an engine to overheat. These include a faulty thermostat to regulate coolant supply to the engine and even an inoperable radiator fan. Experts say an average car engine is designed to operate within 195 to 220 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything above that could cause engine failure. Overheating can cause a lot of damage to a car. It may damage and burn holes in the parts.

Rings, pistons or rod bearings may become impaired, or one can blow a head gasket. Coolant is designed to protect an

engine to a point, but it can also become compromised under high heat.

Boiling coolant may cause the radiator and hoses to burst . The best way to avoid engine and vehicle trouble due to overheating is to prevent an engine from becoming overheated in the first place. Here are five strategies to employ.

1. Ensure t hat coolant levels a re maintained and there are no leaks that would cause coolant to drip out. Be sure the right coolant is being used for the particular vehicle.

2. Dirty, inadequate motor oil cannot dissipate heat as well as clean oil. Check the oil level and viscosity. Change the oil before a long trip or if it looks past its prime.

3. Confirm radiator hoses are in good working order and do not look worn out.

4. Have a mechanic check that a radiator fan is working and that there is adequate air flow through the radiator.

5. Be aware of engine temperature by watching the gauge on the dashboard.

If an engine seems like it’s about to overheat, here are some steps to take.

• Slow down, and pull into the right lane. Turn on the heat in the car and open the windows. Following these steps may draw heat from the engine block, while maintaining a slow pace continues to draw air over the engine.

• Pull over and open the hood to allow the engine to cool.

• Top off the radiator with coolant. Water can also work in a pinch.

• Take frequent breaks during long road trips to allow the engine to cool down for at least 15 minutes.

• Be sure to clear the radiator from obstructions, including leaves or insects that may have collected.

Me n a nd wome n w i t hout au t o maintenance experience should not touch anything under the hood. Consult with a mechanic to determine engine overheating causes.

Page 8: Spring Car Care 3-25-11

For the best results, follow these car washing tips:

DO use products specifically desig ned for automobi les . Household cleansers may be good at removing dirt, but they may also strip off the protective wax on the car.

DON’T wash the car while it is hot, after it’s been sitting out in the sun a while or directly after it’s been driven. The warmth can cause the water and soap to dry faster, leaving unsightly deposits.

DO wash of f dead insects , road salt , mud, etc., as soon as possible. Otherwise these substances may stick to the paint and cause erosion.

DON’T assume the rain will clean the car. In areas with acid rain, it’s actually essential to rinse a vehicle off after it rains to prevent damage.

DO move the sponge lengthwise along the vehicle. Swirling the sponge may cause tiny scratches.

Advertising Supplement to the Sun Journal, Lewiston, Maine, Friday, March 25, 20118 SPRING CAR CARE

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The exterior: Car polish versus car waxMost of us make a concerted effort to take care of our cars. We get the oil changed and have the tires rotated when we’re supposed to, and we have a mechanic take a look if it starts pinging or dinging.

Most of us even make sure the car is clean, either running it through a car wash or scrubbing it ourselves. But beyond the standard washing, do we ever repair its finish or protect it? Do we wax it or polish it? Do we even know the difference between the two procedures?

Waxing a car and polishing a car are two different processes that use two different substances and achieve two different outcomes. Waxing a car is in essence adding a layer of protection. Waxing adds shine to a car and gives it that wet look, but it also protects the car from the elements and ultraviolet light.

Waxing also protects the car’s color from fading and helps delay oxidation by forming a

physical barrier against dirty, corrosive substances.

S o , wh at doe s p ol i sh i ng accomplish? When you polish a car you clean it . Polishing el iminates scratches, rust , dirt and wax. Polishes contain abrasives that actually remove a thin layer of the car’s paint. Polishing also brings out the color and adds shine.

As you might have already figured out, wax and polish are composed of different elements. Wax comes in two forms, paste and liquid. It can be natural or synthetic, with natural wax containing a large amount of carnauba wax, derived from the carnauba palm.

Polish usually comes in liquid form but can also be purchased in spray form. Polish can be chemical or abrasive, with abrasive being used more for small areas of rust or scratches. Because polish has the ability to remove a layer of paint, caution is recommended. Be sure to read

the applicat ion instruct ions thoroughly or your car could end up with a bare metal finish.

So which comes first, waxing or polishing? Because polish can remove wax, obviously you would wax your car after polishing it. Remember, when you are waxing you are sealing. You’ve washed your car, you’ve polished it (removing rust ,

scratches and oxidation) and then you wax it to seal in all of your hard work.

Include car waxing and polishing as part of your car maintenance. Read the instructions on any car care product you buy and be aware of what’s going to happen before you start. If you have questions or concerns, be sure to consult a professional.

Car washing dos and don’ts

Page 9: Spring Car Care 3-25-11

What do you consider to be the most important part of your vehicle? If you think it’s the brakes, you are correct because without the ability to stop your vehicle, you’re like a projectile in search of a target. That’s why it’s important to pay attention to your brakes.

Having your brakes checked periodically is a good idea and can stop a problem before it starts. You won’t find yourself having to pump the brakes to stop your vehicle, which could lead to a collision.

Not ever y bra ke problem warrants a replacement. Before buying new brakes, you should check the level of your brake f luid. If it is low, fill it up and pump the brakes a couple of times while the car is running.

Slowly drive the car around to see if the brakes have improved. You may just need a new brake line. To detect a leak, park your vehicle overnight, move it a few feet in the morning and look for a wet spot. Even a small leak can affect your brakes’ function.

Usually you can tell when you need new brakes. You will hear a grinding or squealing noise coming from the wheel area

of the vehicle. The louder the noise, the worse the brakes are. If you notice smoke coming from the wheel area, you should stop driving and have your brakes replaced immediately.

There are a number of problems you can experience with your brakes. Some of these include:

• Clunking brakes may indicate that the bolts holding the brakes together are loose. You could also have worn or broken suspension components.

• Spongy or weak brakes may indicate low or contaminated brake f luid. I f the f luid is contaminated, you will have to bleed your brakes and put in new fluid. You could also have worn brake pads.

• Squeaky or whiny brakes may indicate worn brake pads. There is a small metal gasket between the brake pad and the piston that absorbs vibrations. The gasket must be replaced or at the very least coated with an anti-squeal lubricant.

• Brakes grabbing or pulling m a y i n d i c a t e w o r n o r contaminated brake pads or discs. Either way, the brakes will need to be replaced.

• A brake pedal that goes down too far before you star t to slow down may indicate low

or contaminated brake f luid, worn brake pads or a bad brake power boost unit . To check the brake booster, you will need a special vacuum measurement device.

• Too firm of a brake pedal may indicate a problem with the vacuum system. If there is nothing wrong with the system, check your brake booster unit. Something may be blocking your brake f luid line, thereby prevent ing the f luid from reaching its destination.

• A brake pedal that goes to the f loor may indicate no brake pressure due to low brake fluid or air in the brake f luid. If air is the culprit, you will need to bleed your brakes and replace the fluid. You could also have a bad master cylinder.

• Pedal vibration at any time other than when braking hard may indicate contaminated brake pads, bad brake discs, misalignment or worn front suspension.

If you think you have a brake problem, ignoring it won’t make it go away. The problem will only get worse, endangering not only you and your passengers but others on the road. Don’t ignore the warning signs. Bring your vehicle in for a professional inspection and repair.

Advertising Supplement to the Sun Journal, Lewiston, Maine, Friday, March 25, 2011 SPRING CAR CARE 9

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Learn the warning signs and don’t ignore them

Page 10: Spring Car Care 3-25-11

One of the biggest changes in automotive industry is perception of a “tune-up.”

The classic “tune-up” was once the heart of the automotive business and contrary to some beliefs, today’s modern vehicles st i l l need tune-ups to keep them performing at the most ef f icient levels. The tune-up was historically associated with the routine replacement of key ignition system parts like spark plugs and ignition points, along with some basic adjustments to help “tune” the engine.

M o u n t i n g p r e s s u r e f o r increased fuel economy and lower emissions drove the car manufacturers to adopt electronics and to do away with ignition points in the ‘70s, along with the carburetor in the middle ‘80s.

This eliminated the need for the replacement and adjustment of a growing number of ignition and fuel system parts. As the pace of technology quickened, the procedures required to

perform a tradit ional tune-up cha nged d ra mat ic a l ly. Highly sophisticated ignition

and fuel systems are now t he nor m , u s i ng one or more onboard computers to

control cr it ical engine and t ra nsm ission ma nagement functions. Things that were once handled mechanically are now controlled electronically through the use of onboard computer technology. Because vehicles have changed so much over the years, the Car Care Council has introduced the 21st Century Tune-up. This helps re-define and educate motorists as to what a tune-up should consist of on today’s modern vehicles.

“There is a misconception that today’s modern vehicles don’t need tune-ups because they never break down, but that simply is not true,” said Rich White, executive director of the Car Care Council. “If you’re at work and your computer goes down, you can’t get any more work done. It’s the same with your vehicle. If the vehicle isn’t being properly maintained, you’re not going to get where you want to go.”

As part of the 21st Century Tune-up, the following systems should be inspected:

• battery, charging and starting

• engine mechanical• powertrain control (including onboard diagnostic checks)

• fuel• ignition• emissions

Vehicle owners ask for tune-ups for a variety of reasons, including improving perfor-mance, maintaining reliability, planning a vacation, preparing for winter/summer or because they’re giving the car to a friend or family member.

To help ensure good perfor-mance, fuel economy and emis-sions, the Car Care Council also recommends that motor-ists take the t ime necessary to become familiar with their vehicle from every aspect.

St udy t he ow ner ’s manual t o b e c o m e t h o r o u g h l y acquainted with the opera-tion of all systems. Pay special at t ent ion to t he i nd ic ator lights and instruments.

“The ‘Be Car Care Aware’ campaign is about helping mot or i s t s ma ke i n for me d decisions about their vehicles’ care and maintenance,” said White. “With the 21st Century Tune-up, we wi l l cont inue to help vehicle owners make g reat s t r ides i n reduci ng vehicle neglect.”

A new brochure is available that familiarizes motorists with the opportunit ies for preventive maintenance in and around their vehicle.

T h e b r o c h u r e c o n t a i n s information about the “Be Car Care Aware” campaign, a full-size schematic of vehicle parts, components and maintenance recommendations.

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Advertising Supplement to the Sun Journal, Lewiston, Maine, Friday, March 25, 201110 SPRING CAR CARE

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Page 11: Spring Car Care 3-25-11

You slide into your vehicle after a long day at work, eager to get home, kick off your shoes and take it easy, when you see it. One of the warning lights on your instrument panel is shining bright, indicating that all is not well with your vehicle. Ugh!

The instrument panels on most vehicles consist of a variety of red and yellow lights that let drivers know when there is a problem with their vehicle. Some lights are more cause for concern than others. Here is a brief description of the warning lights you might see on your vehicle and what you should do in the event they occur.

Service engine soonThis light may also be labeled “Check Engine” and can be triggered by any number of problems from a loose gas cap to a legitimate issue with the engine. As long as your vehicle drives fine, there is no reason for you to panic. You should have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible.

Air bag readinessThis light indicates there is a problem with your air bags and you need to have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible. Don’t ignore the warning and take a chance on air bag failure in an accident.

Anti-lock or ABSThis light indicates the anti-lock feature on your brakes has been disabled and you should have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible. Your brakes will continue to work, but if you get into a situation where you have to brake hard, the wheels could lock up.

Engine oilThis l ight indicates the oi l pressure is low and you need

to have your vehicle serviced immediately. Don’t ignore the warning and continue to drive your vehicle, or you could risk extensive damage to the engine.

Low engine coolantThis light indicates the engine coolant is low and you should address the problem right away. Shut off your vehicle, wait for the engine to cool and then check the coolant level. Add some if needed. The light may go off. If it doesn’t, you should have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible.

Engine coolant temperatureT h i s l ig ht i nd ic a t e s t he temperature of the engine is beyond the sa fe maximum and you should have your

vehicle serviced immediately. Don’t ignore the warning and continue to drive your vehicle, or you could risk extensive damage to the engine.

Battery voltageThis light indicates the battery is no longer being charged and you should address the problem right away. You have about 20 minutes of driving

lef t before your vehicle shuts dow n c omple t e ly, so you should turn off all unnecessary elec t r ica l accessor ies a nd have the battery checked. You may just need a new battery, or you could be experiencing some other problem with your electrical system.

Wa r n i ng l ig ht s c a n come on at a ny moment when you are driving. Take them

ser iously, and i f you don’t know what one means, consult your owner ’s manual and fol low t he manufacturer ’s recommendat ions. Of al l of the warning lights, the ones monitor ing the engine oi l , engine coolant and battery are the most serious. Take prompt act ion to prevent breaking down on the side of the road and damaging your vehicle.

Advertising Supplement to the Sun Journal, Lewiston, Maine, Friday, March 25, 2011 SPRING CAR CARE 11

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Pay attention to the lights on your dashboard

THE LIGHT’S ON

Page 12: Spring Car Care 3-25-11

Belts and hoses are important components in your vehicle.

If something goes wrong with them, you will have problems. By paying at tent ion to the belts and hoses, you can help keep your vehicle running its best. You don’t need to hire a professional to check your belts and hoses. You can do it yourself. You just need to make sure the engine is cold.

Belts operate the alternator, power steering pump, water pump and a i r condit ioner compressor. It is important to start with a visual inspection of the belts and a testing of the tension. Look for cracking, fraying or missing pieces, all of

which warrant a replacement. To get an accurate reading of a belt’s tension, you need a belt tension gauge. If you don’t have one of these, you can check the tension by depressing the

belt along its longest straight sect ion. I f it def lects one-half to one inch, the tension is good. There are various types of belts. Here is a brief description of some of them,

along with some maintenance tips. The drive belt or fan belt powers t he power steer ing pump, air injection pump, air conditioning compressor and mechanical cooling fan.

T here a re t wo t y pes : t he V-belt and the serpentine belt. The belts should be checked when t he oi l i s cha nged . Look for signs of cracking (random cracks on the ribs of a serpentine belt are normal and don’t require an immediate replacement), missing pieces, splitting or separating layers.

The t iming belt keeps the cra n k sha f t a nd c a msha f t synchronized, which, in turn, keeps t he va lve operat ion matched to the position of the pistons. There are some engines in which the belt operates other parts, such as the water and oil pump and balance shafts. For this, manufacturers usually have a recommended mileage for replacement.

F a i l u r e t o f o l l o w t h i s recommendation could result i n major eng i ne da mage . Because it is easier to access the water pump, tensioning pulleys and timing belt sprockets when the timing belt is removed, you may want to consider replacing these parts as well.

After checking the belts, you may check the hoses — the radiator hoses (upper and

lower), heater hose and bypass hose. Look for small leaks, and if you find some, use duct tape as a temporary patch. If you notice the upper radiator hose has collapsed, you have a defective radiator pressure cap that will need to be replaced.

Test the heater and radiator hoses by f i rmly squeezing them. If they are hard, make a crunching sound, are extremely soft or sticky, or are covered with oil, they need to be replaced.

You should check the coolant hoses twice a year, in the spring and fall. You also need to check the hose connections, but only when the engine is warm.

Drive the vehicle around for a while and then pop the hood. If you see swollen spots in the coolant hoses, this indicates areas of weakness and the hoses need to be replaced.

You should also check for cold leaks. These generally seal themselves when the hoses get warm and expand, so wait until the engine has cooled and look for dry coolant cracks or small damp spots down the radiator, thermostat housing, hose ends or firewall.

Belts and hoses are not difficult to maintain or overly expensive to replace. I f you choose to ignore a defective belt or hose, however, it could lead to more expensive problems.

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By Ronda Addy Feature Writer

Ignoring your car’s belts could be dangerousTIGHTEN THAT BELT

It’s a good idea to practice preventive maintenance, and if you aren’t comfortable doing that yourself, to turn your vehicle over to a reliable mechanic.