Spring 2014 Coast&Kayak Magazine

spring 2014 COAST&KAYAK MAgAzine 1

Images from the portfolio of Frode and Wivian

Wiggen

Join us on a journeythrough Hakai on thecentral BC coast

A day in the office at San Ignacio Lagoon

From Norway with love

The Island Maze Touched by whales

SPRING 2014FREE at select outlets and online or by paid home subscription

Volume 24, Issue 1

www.coastandkayak.com

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416

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COAST&KAYAKMagazineThe magazine of Pacific coast adventures and recreation

2 COAST&KAYAK MAgAzine spring 2014

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The Island Maze: Hakai 16

This issues cover by Frode and Wivian Wiggen

Understanding boomers 38

Toquaht transitions 28

Sometimes the best photos are the ones where the end result is a surprise. This is one of them. While eating lunch, Norwegian couple Frode and Wivian Wiggen came up with an idea of doing a balance brace photo of both of them with the photo taken from above not easy to do when both subjects are in the water. So they mounted a GoPro on the end of an outheld paddle, and this was the result. It is one of a selection of photographs Coast&Kayak presents showing the trips and skills of this couple out of their home island Senja, the second largest in Norway. The portfolio presentation begins page 8.

First Word .......................................................................4News ..................................................................................6Plan your BC adventure destination ............21Plan your warm water adventure ..........40-41BC Marine Trails update ...................................... 33Plan your Gulf Islands adventure .................. 35

Plan your West Coast adventure ................... 39Wildlife/Ecology ......................................................40Desolation Sound/Discovery Islands ......... 45Skillset ............................................................................ 48Good Reads: Books/DVDs ................................. 50Gear ................................................................................. 52

Inside

Kayaking changed forever in the Broken Group Islands first with the closure of the main launch site in Toquaht Bay, then with the construction of the only launch and access road in BC designed specifically for kayakers and car-toppers. Its all part of a huge transformation for the host Toquaht Nation.

Theres nothing as scary and potentially dangerous as paddling when a hole suddenly opens in front of you showing a submerged rock while a large breaking wave prepares to pound it. Theyre called boomers, and heres how to manage them.

Regular Coast&Kayak contributor Neil Schulman heads to the central British Columbia coast and shares his perspective of the advantages and difficulties involved in kayaking the remote region called the Hakai Lxvbls Conservancy.

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Spring 2014 Volume 24, Number 1 PM No. 41687515

A product of:Wild Coast Publishing

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Ph: 1-866-984-6437 Fax: 1-866-654-1937Email: [email protected]: www.coastandkayak.com

Physical address: Aboard the Rainy Day, Somewhere on the Pacific Ocean

The worlds only magazine published from aboard a boat (that we know of, anyway).

2013. Copyright is retained on all material (text, photos and graphics) in this magazine. No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form, print or electronic, for any purpose,

except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing.

Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2010, courtesy of the Atlas of Canada. Also, our thanks to Geobase for some

elements that may appear on Coast&Kayak maps.

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Many kayakers who prefer SLR cameras over point-and-clicks will understand the dilemma of how to care for them while on the water. I find their creative potential vastly superior to anything in a small waterproof chassis, so an SLR is an essential part of my gear. That isnt to say waterproof cameras dont have their place. They do, and for me its usually in my life vest pocket where I can grab it quickly. Much greater care is necessary with the SLR, though.

I managed entire summers on the water with SLRs thanks to a wonderful waterproof camera case made by the Canadian company Seratus. They also made great PFDs. Their camera case was a regular leather-style one with a waterproof bag over top. This worked until the zipper corroded after years of use, and I would have bought another except that a very large Canadian cooperative bought Seratus, then shut it down stating their products couldnt compete with cheaper offshore manufacturers.

This was not only treason, it left a massive hole in my gear locker. For years I bounced between products until I finally hit on another solution, a soft case with a waterproof zipper just the right size for my camera and maybe an extra lens. Perfect for the cockpit floor.

This use might have continued if it wasnt for another cheap offshore piece of merchandise, this time a waterproof camera case for SLRs. Previously I had only seen these gizmos available for thousands of dollars, and here it was for barely hundreds. So I bought it and my bright orange camera case was no longer needed for the camera.

Luckily I found other uses for it, since it stashed everything else I might want that cant get wet, such as my cell phone, lunch, snacks, wallet... Better yet it had a shoulder strap and a side handle so I could grab all my valuables and easily take them with me if I left the boat for a hike somewhere. So as often as not I carted it around on land.

Then the inevitable occurred. One day my partner Leanne pointed over to the orange former camera case and said, Dont forget your purse.

I was about to splutter something in indignation, but I stopped short because she was absolutely right. My little bright orange camera case was now for all intents a man-purse.

I suppose this is the risk of taking part in a form of recreation that requires wearing a skirt and where finesse and style are more useful than strength. But so be it. Ive never aimed to be a mans man. But with kayaking for a hobby, its apparently not something about to happen anytime soon.

- John [email protected]

Emasculation by kayaking

Coast&kayak Magazine is an independent magazine available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops, outdoor stores, paddling clubs, marinas, events, etc.), and globally on the web.

Paid subscriptions are available for those who prefer home delivery.

Articles, photos, events, news are all welcome.

General queries: [email protected]: [email protected]: [email protected]

Online: www.coastandkayak.comBack issues: Turn the carousel on our back issues page, click on the issue you want to read.

Coast&Kayak Magazine is dedicated to making self-propelled coastal exploration fun and accessible. Safety and travel

information is provided to augment pre-existing safety and knowledge. A safety course and proper equipment are advised before any exploration on water. See a list of paddling instruction

locations at www.coastandkayak.com

ken Bueckert strikes up a manly i love the smell of neoprene in the morning pose in his kayak gear, but hes not fooling anyone. Hes still wearing a skirt.

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Changes for Discovery CoastLong a vital link for communities along

the central British Columbia coast, the Discovery Coast ferry service has also played a small but vital role for kayakers. It is the only BC Ferries service that offers wet launches by kayak. The result was a walk-on, paddle-off transportation service to regions of the central BC coast otherwise nearly impossible to reach.

That link is now in jeopardy as BC Ferries has proposed cancelling the summer service aboard the Queen of Chilliwack as part of a cost-reduction plan. Instead, the winter service will change to year-round, connecting Port Hardy, Bells Bella, Klemtu and Prince Rupert while the smaller 16-car vessel the Nimpkish will act as a connector between Shearwater, Bella Bella, Ocean Falls and Bella Coola.

For the remote communities that rely on the ferry it will mean fewer visits, but for kayakers it will almost certainly mean an end to drop-offs at popular locations throughout the Hakai Lxvbls Conservancy. See page 16 for a feature on kayaking that region.

News

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A group launches from the Queen of Chilliwack, an opportunity that may now be at an end. See Neil Schulmans feature on page 16 for more about this service.

Neil Sch

ulman

pho

to

the year of the water taxisIn contrast to BC Ferries, private

operators are starting or expanding water taxi services aimed at kayakers throughout the BC coast.

New for 2014 is Mayne Interisland Sea

Tours, a new recreational business using a 26 Commander Sportfish based out of Mayne Island in the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island. The service is offering accommodation and charter packages for Mayne, Saturna, Pender, Galiano and Saltspring islands.

Based out of Campbell River, Discovery Launch Water Taxi is targeting kayakers with capabilities for up to 12 passengers, gear and kayaks. Destinations include the Discovery Islands such as Quadra and Cortes, Desolation Sound. The service has a fleet of four boats.

Another newcomer is Sea Wolf Adventures based out of Telegraph Harbour. Owner Mike Willie is giving unique Kwakwakawakw insight into his service to the Broughton Archipelago and Johnstone Strait, including an option for cultural tours.

Meanwhile on the west coast, Tahtsa Dive Charters out of Tahsis has added a landing craft, the MV Shorebird, for loading and unloading on remote beaches. The Shorebird features room for six kayaks for trips to Nootka Island, Nuchatlitz and Yuquot.


News

doesnt track well (hes a bit lopsided). Yoshi will accompany the MV Rainy

Day on this years cruise of the south BC coast. This will allow us to continue to publish all our products from remote locations and also explore by kayak. If you see us out there, drop by to say hi to the crew as well as Yoshi. Hell be the small black and white dude who barks.

the Henry Brothers make itActually, they were at the northern tip

of the Bahamas at press time, but will almost certainly have touched down by now in Florida to end their 6,500 km route from Belem, Brazil through 26 countries en route to the U.S.

Their trip involved several tough 100+ km crossings, but a few not-too-tough-to-take sections as well. On last check-in they were getting two complimentary nights at a high-end Bahamian resort and enjoying the 30-plus restaurants.

Russell and Graham Henry are the sons of Brian Henry, owner of Ocean River Sports and one of the founders of the Current Design kayak line. Apparently an off-shoot of their trip is a reality TV show.

Visit www.henrykayak.com.

Always on top.

a eulogy for sea kayaker MagazineThe last issue of Sea Kayaker Magazine

was sent out this spring, ending a history of almost 30 years of publishing.

For our first two decades the changes generally worked in our favor, but over this past decade, the tide slowly turned, the Sea Kayaker website states. We recently recognized that weve been paddling against an overwhelming current and its time to come ashore.

Sea Kayaker was founded by John Dowd, who also wrote the ground-breaking guide Sea Kayaking: A Manual for Long Distance Touring.

The closure marks a turbulent time for the paddlesports publishing industry, which since 2008 includes the closing of Paddle Canadas Kanawa Magazine, American Canoe Associations Paddler Magazine and now California Paddler Magazine, which has cancelled its print schedule indefinitely.

Coast&Kayak Magazine, meanwhile, is expanding with three new publications this year: Adventure BC Magazine, the Kayak and Paddlesports Gear Guide and the Adventure Tour Guide. You can read them free online at www.coastandkayak.com.

Coast&kayak welcomes new skipperIt was inevitable that a magazine

operating from a boat would require a skipper, a role now being filled by a little dog named Yoshi.

Yoshi is a fox terrier cross with a troubled past. He was left for dead after being hit by a car in Los Angeles, then rescued by a Good Samaritan who paid to have his smashed pelvis rebuilt. After months of recovery he was picked up by a rescue society and shipped to Victoria, BC, where the chance of an adoption was higher. From there he joined the Coast&Kayak crew. He is adapting to his new life well and loves to run although he

Yoshi sets up his office on the back deck of the MV Rainy Day, joining Coast&Kayaks staff as the new skipper aboard our floating office.


Portfolio

Paddling in April is awesome. There is still snow on the mountaintops, and we are relaxing at one of our favourite places in Bergsfjorden. If you are lucky, you can see curious seals while eating lunch.

Coast&KayaK Magazine has been able to make some remarkable friends around the world, two of whom are Frode and Wivian Wiggen, a married couple who live on Senja, the second largest island in Norway.

Both have a passion for Greenland kayaking and photography. Its not terribly technical just a Canon D20 and a GoPro but the results are an array of wonderful offbeat images showing a full spectrum of

seasons, landscapes and skills on the water. You can follow more of the couples

work at www.senjaroller.blogspot.com. We started to post some of our

photos on our own Facebook profile, and since a lot of people seemed to enjoy them we decided to do something so others could see them as well. We made a photoblog, Frode says.

The purpose of the blog is to give inspiration to other paddlers to bring their camera on their trips. We want to show people all over the world how beautiful it is at Senja. And we want to show all the people who live on Senja how beautiful the island is if you paddle a kayak. Its a

Senja scenics



by Frode and Vivian Wiggen

strange thing, but people who live in the area are not so good at exploring what is outside their door.

The pair has a passion for Greenland rolling, and practice whenever they can including winter.

Every year we decide that we will not

paddle in the winter and freeze, but the nature changes so much on the island that we cant sit still. We have to be on the sea and explore, he says.

This cannot be measured with money. To experience this means so much more than having an expensive car or a huge

luxury house. This experience we will remember the rest of our life. We are very lucky that we can to do this together, as a couple.

The following is a sample of images from their collection just a few snaps from among their huge collection.



World Destinations

At Senja there is a lot of spectacular mountains. Some of them go straight up from the sea. It is awesome to sit in a kayak and look up, but you should also try it the other way. If there is one mountain you should visit, it is this one! Segla is 639 metres over sea level. Once you reach the top, the view is breathtaking.

On a perfect day after a rolling session and lunch, Wivian

takes a moment to relax and enjoy the silence. And what better to do that than lying

on the kayak? There is a safety element, Frode tells us: you will wake up if you flip over.

Good to know.

Portfolio


Fiji


Calling all paddlers to a Sign Raising Event, June 21, 2014:

..On Historic BC MARINE TRAILS

MUSGRAVE POINT, Saltspring Island.

Go to the BC MARINE TRAILS NETWORK ASSOCIATION website, wwwbcmarinetrails.org to find out the details and how you can become a part of this celebration!

We are celebrating the raising of the very first BC MARINE TRAILS sign..

At www.bcmarinetrails.org, learn about this BC Marine Trail Biffy, built in 1995, which helped us secure this site!

Bring your boat and join the Flotilla!!

The balance brace is an excellent exercise to learn the end sequence to Greenland rolls. If you relax you can even do it without a paddle. Frode gave Wivian a challenge to read a newspaper while balance bracing, and it was obviously not a problem.

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Portfolio


A great viewpoint of the fjord Bergsbotn.

Whales visit in December and

January.

by Frode and Vivian Wiggen


Above: Paddling in South of Senja, we did a lunch break on a small island called Halvardsoya. We are proud to own two of these collector kayaks, Ivalu from Arrow. When we came to shore, Wivian at once saw that this was going to be a nice photo with the old building behind the narrow and shiny Ivalu. Left: a self-portrait by the couple.

Portfolio


Portfolio

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Adventure Destinations

Island MazeNavigating the

the Captain is going to gun the engines, the ferry deckhand told me. The thought made me extremely nervous. The ferry was drifting toward the rocks of Experiment Point while the deckhand had a very tenuous grip on my kayak, mostly via a knot on a very frayed piece of rope. When the captain revved the engines, the rope stretched beyond my reach and my anxiety mounted. As soon as he backed off the throttle, I leapt into my boat and paddled off. My wet kayak launch from BC Ferries on the Central Coast was uncertain and nerve-wracking, but definitely interesting in much the same way as kayaking the Central Coast. As a paddling destination it is world-class, but uncertainty is the norm.

The Island Maze the B.C. Coast from Calvert Island to the small communities of Bella Bella and Shearwater is an array of islands, open coast, steep-walled channels and very little else, including information. In two weeks we uncovered an uncharted tidal rapid and currents that didnt make sense in an area massive enough for another dozen trips of discovery.

There are two main ways to get to the Central Coast, and both involve BC Ferries. The first option involves taking the Discovery Coast Ferry from Port Hardy to either Bella Bella or Shearwater, and then paddling from there. The second involves taking the same ferry and requesting a wet launch or possibly a wet return; the ferry will also pick you up from a predetermined spot on the sea.1

It works like this: the ferry stops, a ramp is lowered in the stern, and then as youre about to jump in your kayak, the captain guns the engine. u1 This ferry route is facing cancellation. See page 6 for details.


by Neil Schulman

Risks, rewards and logistics all part of the recipe for Hakai

Left: A sunbeam finds its way to the beach, a surprisingly good one for the area, on the inside of the northern and largest of the Serpent Group islands, a cluster set in Kildidt Sound. This whole area north of Calvert Island is part of the Hakai Lxvbls Conservancy.

Above: Driftwood frames a view of Hunter Channel, the route south from Bella Bella to Queens Sound.


BellaBella

Shearwater

Denny I.

Stryker I.

SpillerChannel

Ocean Falls

Hakai Lxvbls Conservancy

Calvert I.

Vancouver I.

QueenCharlotteSound Queen

CharlotteStrait

To Port Hardy

CapeCaution

Smith Sound

FitzHughSound

FishEggInlet

Rivers Inlet

KildidtSound

SerpentGroup Ha

kai Pa

ssExperiment Point

Superstition Point

GooseGroup

McMullin Group

QueensSound

To Klemtu

Hunter I.

Hunter Channel

King I.

Dean Chan

nel


Fred Harsman and Karen Dalbey Launch from a campsite along Hunter Channel.


Nature

Kayak launchGateway to the world-famous Broken Group Islands

Toquaht culture

Adventure

Paddle the ancient waters of Barkley Sound, BC, where time and place stand still. The Secret Beach kayak launch is in the heart of Toquaht Nation traditional territory and is a short paddle away from the breathtaking Broken Group Islands. Camping available to extend your stay!

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Five of us were dropped off near Calvert Island and explored the 100 nautical miles to Bella Bella over several days.

Wet launches and landings are touchy. Theyre booked in advance, but the captain makes the final decision based on weather, safety, fuel and his schedule. We had asked to be dropped off farther south, but the captain vetoed that. A Plan B is essential: if your launch is cancelled, youll end up paddling from the next ferry stop. If your pickup is cancelled, best have enough food to last until the next ferry, which in 2013 was twice a week.

With logistics this complex, saving the time and money by driving to the west side of Vancouver Island for a holiday might seem more sensible. But Hakai has a lure: wildness. In two weeks, our tally was two motorboats, no buildings, one ferry and one coast guard cutter. The only other paddlers were in a group that launched at the same time as us.

The lack of reliable information also gives the area an aura of mystery. We found a fantastic surf beach with emerald-green water and a clear route back to sea

that was even more perfect because wed discovered it via exploration rather than referring to a guidebook. And theres magic in 10:30 p.m. sunsets a long way from anywhere.

The second reason to travel here is options. Uncertainty is balanced by the possibilities within the maze of islands. The crinkly shoreline provides islands to duck behind when the swell is big or youre seeking shelter from wind most of the time. At other times our 180-kilometre route involved substantial navigational hurdles: headlands, exposed crossings, tidal exchanges and wind funnels.

Like the rest of the BC coast, wind, fog and sea state have to be respected. On sunny days, the wind will rise from the northwest as the day progresses.

Our weather was fantastic: sunny and hot. That meant strong winds, often gale force by mid-afternoon. We quickly adopted an early schedule contingent on being ashore by 1 p.m. Fortunately, the hot weather kept the temperatures well away from the dew point. Had it been a little cooler, wed have faced morning pea-soup

Hakai

u


Adventure Destinations Hakai

fog followed by rapidly rising winds and building seas.

On a day when we planned to cross to the McMullin Group, we stopped at a stream for fresh water. Filtering took longer than expected. When we rounded a point, whitecaps were filling northern Queens Sound. The crossing was scrapped in favour of crawling up the side of Stryker Island to another campsite. Even that pushed our safety margin. In the strong headwinds, we couldnt rest without losing ground. A capsize would have sent us and our kayaks into rocky cliffs. It was a slow and relentless grind, but we made it.

Swell height, direction, and timing are critical to an outer coast trip. Even paddlers taking protected routes will have to navigate the open ocean at least three times between Calvert Island and Bella Bella: crossing Hakai Pass, open to both the sea and current exchange; crossing

Kildidt Sound; and rounding Superstition Point. The areas true gems the McMullin Group, the Goose Group, and the west coast of Calvert Island require more exposed travel. We also wanted to spend as much time rock gardening and surfing on the outer coast as wind, swell and time allowed. Marine forecasts cover vast areas and extended forecasts are limited, so we listened religiously to reports from lighthouses and buoys to our northwest: Cape St. James, South Hecate, and South Moresby. Those seas would appear in our neighborhood soon enough.

There are no current stations along the central BC coast. Instead paddlers must divine local conditions from the nearest stations in tide tables and from what hints charts might contain. In the complex geography, current behaviour was clearly odd, even to seasoned navigators. The area

has a rotary current, where the current spins around the compass in different parts of the tidal cycle.

Scattered through the Island Maze are tidal rapids like Gale Passage, Kinsmen Inlet and Kildidt Narrows. Even more interesting, there is little reliable information about when theyre navigable or even which way they flow. We visited one when it was predicted to be running at full ebb only to find it dead calm. This uncertainty was both fun and challenging. We skipped an alluring passage between two islands because we knew it contained two tidal rapids. Enticing as this looked, we didnt want to end up stuck in a small lagoon for several hours. Instead its on the top of my to-do list for the next visit.

The most fun was discovering uncharted tidal rapids. I found one by accident on an evening solo paddle. Where the chart indicated a featureless inlet, there was an uncharted small island with tidal rapids swirling around it. I imagined being stuck there for several hours within sight of my tent. But I worked my way out, and it became our play spot for the next morning. Its exciting to find a blank spot on the map. Its even more thrilling when it holds something so interesting.

Camps within the Island Maze tend to fall into two categories: sandy beaches exposed

Wet launching from the Queen ofChilliwack involves dropping the car deck door. Its a service that might be a thing of the past with the cancellation of the Discovery Coast ferry service; see page 6.


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Wildlife abounds. Our tired group ducked into a small cove for a breather from fighting headwinds only to have to yield right-of-way to a minke whale headed the other way. Sea otters thrive in the areas around the Goose, McMullin, McNaughton and Stryker island groups and use the same habitat as rock-

gardening sea kayakers. In July, the males were on the most exposed parts of the outer coast, while the females and pups rafted up behind the first line of reefs, creating a furry obstacle course. And that was the wildlife we saw. Wolf tracks covered every beach. At several camps they left us a very clear message, in the

to the ocean or small spots on interior inlets and channels. The outer islands hold massive beaches, with exposure to at least some surf. Camps along the steep interior inlets are generally along rocky pullouts or small beaches. The larger your group, the more limited your options. Expect to spend some time looking for sites.

A camp location on a deserted beach, Calvert Island.


AdventuresVillageIsland.com

ADVENTURES VILLAGE ISLANDWhile visiting our territories

know that we are hereto be your hosts, guides

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We share our ancestral waysto the modern world

Accommodation

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Adventure


Come and Explore!See the areas first monumental pole raised in Gwaii Haanas in over 130 years.

Venez explorer!Admirez le mt hraldique gant qui a t hiss Gwaii Haanas, le premier dans la rgion depuis plus de 130 ans.

form of a big pile of wolf scat in the middle of our kitchen.

The most critical seamanship skills in an unpredictable place such as this are the ability to interpret a nautical

chart, weather and tide information, and predict currents and sea state. This will help you know whether landing on a particular beach on a northwest swell of 1.5 meters at 8 seconds is a good idea or

a bad one. As well, judgment is required to assess your groups abilities and know when its safe to go, when to take a more conservative route and when to stay ashore.

Self-sufficiency is another factor. On a wilderness trip to Clayoquot Sound we could have been in Tofino in four hours paddling at the farthest point. In the island maze it was seven days.

Expeditions require both physical and mental preparedness. Self-sufficiency, injury prevention, weather adaptability and staying calm and positive in varied conditions are necessary.

The hassle of getting to the Central Coast makes it the most challenging and most rewarding trip Ive done in British Columbia. Stare at the charts of this intricate coast long enough, and youll be drawn to the Island Maze like a moth to a flame.

Neil Schulman has paddled the West Coast of British Columbia for the past ten years. He teaches kayaking, writes and photographs

in Portland, Oregon. If you find a pair of sunglasses somewhere on the bottom of

Queens Sound, theyre probably his.

Fred Harsman takes in a 10 p.m. sunset at Calvert Island.

Hakai


Hakai

Opposite page: A beach on the

exposed outer coast of Calvert Island.

Above: a beach log on Stryker Island. Right: Dave Dalbey rounds Superstition Point in Queens Sound, one

of the more exposed locations to cross.


if the northern Gateway Project goes ahead, and theres every likelihood it will, the eastern shore of Hecate Strait may bear the brunt of a large oil spill.

Its a rarely visited stretch of coast, and a group of Nanaimo-area paddlers has taken on the task to survey the outer shores from the north end of Banks Island to the south end of Calvert Island in search of suitable landing and camping spots for kayaks. It was a three-year project that started in 2011.

Much of the outer shore of the central and north BC coast is part of a geological formation called the Millbanke strandflat. It is typified by a shallow shoreline, which can create difficulties for larger boats. The result is place names such as the Wreck Islands, Grief Point, Calamity Bay and Terror Point. Between the South end of Price Island and the north tip of Banks Island, a little more than one hundred nautical miles, are more than 1,200 islands and islets and a greater number of reefs and rocks. None are parks or protected areas.

While a forbidding area by some measures, kayakers can reduce the risk by staying close to shore in the lee of the islands or rocks. Nearby Haida Gwaii also blocks most of the open ocean swell.

The descriptions rugged and beautiful apply to the landscape. Whether by good luck or good planning, camping and rest spots exist at distances

suitable for paddlers of ordinary ability. The flat terrain also means that the clouds coming from the west often pass overhead, saving the rain for the mountains and channels to the east. Thin soil means that commercial timber lives elsewhere, helping to keep the islands pristine.

The outer coast has no permanent residents and no development beyond two floating fish camps and some evidence of historical First Nations use. Wolves live here and in the summer many birds including sandhill cranes share the shore. The waters teem with fish which in turn attract marine mammals of all sorts. Large

A large clam garden and fish weir on outer Banks Island south of Kingkown Inlet. The wall in the background appears to be man-made, connecting existing rocks at the entrance to the bay.

Adventure Destinations by Glenn Lewis

Coast&Kayak Magazine presents a supplementary publication new for 2014 listing adventure tours by itinerary, dates and prices. Its the best way to sit back and examine your options for adventure tour packages. Available in multiple online formats include apps for Apple and Android mobile devices.

Also, watch for Coast&Kayak Magazines new sister publication, Adventure BC Magazine. Its for those who love British Columbia and who love the outdoors. Chances are, thats you!

www.coastandkayak.com BC ADVEnTUrE TOUr gUiDE 2014 1www.coastandkayak.com

Browse adventures from British Columbia

to Baja.

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Adventure Tour Guide2014 Find your perfect adventure.

tidal changes, up to seven metres in a cycle, mean that in the lee of the islands one often finds large sand and mud flats which are productive food sources for many species of bird. The animals living in this area typically ignore humans. They show little fear of people and seem almost perplexed by our presence.

A quick look at Google Earth shows that this area represents the only large unoccupied and essentially natural stretch of northern temperate rainforest shoreline in the world.

Glenn and his crew have created online guides for the outer coast in three sections. Read them at http://issuu.com/glennlewis

Outer route gets audit by kayakers

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THE YUKON: A PADDLERS PARADISESix Out-Of-This-World River Trips You Simply Have to Experience

The worlds best paddling trips are right here in the land

of the midnight sun. Clean, clear, winding rivers flow

through a land of unparalleled wilderness and stunning

mountain beauty. Here are the top six sure-fire-fun trips that accommodate any skill-or-thrill level plus all the

trip info youll need to turn your dreams to reality.

Experts know the BEST SPOTS

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Tucked away in the northwest corner of Canada, wedged between Alaska and Northwest Territories, is a pie-slice-shaped land pulsing with paddle-perfect wilderness rivers. Yukon is truly a paddlers paradise. What makes this place so special is that we literally have it all. Trips to suit every skill level, every budget, every dream. Take your pick: fly-in or road access? Splashy whitewater or mellow meanderings? Lots of hiking options or mostly just great fishing (or both)? Far north above the tree line or deep in the thick of a coastal rainforest? A few days or nearly a month? Remote wilderness or close-to-the-road? You name it we have it.One thing all trips have in common: theyre all set to a backdrop of incomparable mountain wilderness. With only 36,000 people in the

Yukon, mostly concentrated in the capital of Whitehorse, pristine, intact ecosystems are the norm. Were one of the last places on the planet with 100,000-strong caribou herds, healthy wolf and moose numbers, plus thriving populations of animals that are nonexistent or threatened in other places like eagles, peregrine falcons, Sandhill cranes, Dall sheep and wolverine. All our rivers, even those with road access, immerse you into this fantastical world.In this handy guide, we feature the six best trips that represent the full range of options. There are dozens more offered by our Yukon Wild adventure operators so go to yukonwild.com to see the full range. Start planning your dream trip now!

Yukon is truly a paddlers paradise.

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FLIGHT TIMES

Calgary 2.5/hrsEdmonton 2.0/hrsKelowna 2.0/hrsOttawa 6.5/hrsVancouver 2.5/hrsYellowknife 2.0/hrs

THE YUKON IS CLOSER THAN YOU THINKAll aboard! Whitehorse now has direct flights from Vancouver, Edmonton, Calgary, Kelowna, Yellowknife and Ottawa with Air North, Air Canada and WestJet. If you are departing from another destination and require a connection, there are plenty of efficient route options available. Youll be impressed by the prices and itineraries! Be sure to book a window seat: the views over the mountains will keep your nose pressed to the Plexiglas.

TRIP 1: THE TATSHENSHINIA trip down the Tat will thrill you to no end.

Rated by National Geographic as one of the Top

Ten Whitewater Rafting Trips in the World, this

unbelievable journey will take you through some of

the most stunning wilderness and mountain scenery

on the planet.

Let your expert guide steady your raft down exhilarating whitewater, past grizzlies feeding on spawning salmon, under towering, snow-capped mountains. Watch glaciers calve into the water and hop onto an iceberg for a float. A hike up Goatherd Mountain will reward you with sights of elusive mountain goats and a view youll never forget. As you approach the Alaska coast, Mount Fairweather towers above you at 15,000 feet. This river has it all, other than serious whitewater, says California paddler Ken Jacobs. Its my favorite trip of all time, even more special than the Grand Canyon because of its wilderness.

Trip Type: Raft.

Duration: 1 day to 2 weeks.

When to Go: June and July is best for weather.

Skill Level: Beginner.

Getting There: Guides will pick you up at your Whitehorse hotel in the morning and make the three-hour scenic drive through Kluane National Park to the put-in spot.

Getting Back: When your raft spills into the Pacific at Dry Bay, Alaska, your operator will have a scheduled chartered floatplane ready to fly you back to Whitehorse.

Dont forget: All-weather wardrobe. It can get chilly and wet near the coast.

Who to Go With: Many experienced Yukon-based operators offer these trips. Go to yukonwild.com to choose which company best suits your needs and preferences.

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TRIP 2: THE WIND RIVERThe Wind is the most accessible of all six Peel rivers as it

offers the easiest paddling with all the stunning, wide-open

mountain scenery typical of the region. The water is clear

and clean, the wildlife abundant, the hiking opportunities

endless. We pulled over on a gravel bar to watch a stand-

off between a wolf and a straggling caribou, says Rebecca

Alderson, an Ottawa-based canoeist. As I sat there and

watched, I was breathless. It was like time stood still.

The river is fun to paddle, with only occasional Class I and II rapids, and is dotted with perfect gravel-bar campsites along its length. Pick any ridge the river is mostly above the tree-line and hike up as far as you wish: every step offers an even more jaw-dropping view across this extremely scenic, expansive landscape. Yukon Wild guides are experts at making your trip comfortable and safe plus will share stories about the culture and

history of the area, including a visit to the site of the tragic Lost Patrol.

Trip Type: Canoe or raft.

Duration: 2-3 weeks.

When to Go: June to August.

Skill Level: Intermediate you need to be comfortable canoeing Class II rapids.

Beginner for rafting trips.

Getting There: Guides will pick you up in Whitehorse in the morning and shuttle you to the float plane base in Mayo, a four-hour drive north. From there, enjoy the spectacular 110-km flight into McCluskey Lake, at the top of the Wind River.

Getting Back: The Wind ends where it joins the larger, silty Peel River. You will paddle one full day on the Peel until you reach Taco Bar, a large gravel bar where your floatplane can land to pick you up.

Dont Forget: Eye mask. Youre really far North now and the sun can make it hard to get some winks at night.



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RIVERS OF THE PEEL WATERSHEDThe Peel Watershed is one of the largest pristine environments left in the world outside of park-protected areas. Mostly above the tree line and coursing through surreal, colourful mountains, the region has gained an international reputation for its amazing paddling trips. Here are two great options from that magical place.

TRIP 3: THE SNAKE RIVERWith exciting fun whitewater, rainbow-coloured mountains

(due to unique mineralization) that drop close to the rivers

edge and abundant and close-up wildlife, taking a trip down

the Snake River transports you to a powerful, magical place

far removed from civilization.

With plentiful class II rapids to navigate plus a few class III sections you can choose to portage, the Snake demands increased attention and skill from the paddler but also ups the fun factor. Hiking here is out-of-this-world with endless ridges beckoning you from the rivers edge. Most groups take a day or multi-day trip up into the fantastical Mount McDonald area.

In the heart of one of the largest unprotected wilderness areas left on the planet, the Snake truly offers up some life-altering wildlife sightings:

from caribou herd river crossings to Dall sheep licking salt on a cliff above your head. The wildlife sightings on the Snake were incredible, says Torontonian tripper Scott McCormack. We were watching a Northern Dipper singing and fishing in a waterfall when someone pointed out a wolverine scurrying across the alpine tundra. And this, just the day after wolves howling near our tents waking us up in the middle of the night.

Trip Type: Canoe or Raft.

Duration: 2-3 weeks.

When to Go: June to August

Skill Level: Intermediate (can you paddle class II rapids?) for canoeing.

Beginner for rafting trips.

Getting There: Guides will pick you up at your Whitehorse hotel in the morning and shuttle you to the float plane base in Mayo, a four-hour drive north. From there, enjoy the spectacular flight into mountain-rimmed Duo Lakes.

Getting Back: Paddle a short distance on the Peel River to Taco Bar to meet your floatplane. Guides will shuttle you back to Whitehorse from the base in Mayo. Longer trips are offered that continue along the Peel River for another week, ending in the small village of Fort McPherson at the top of the Dempster Highway.

Dont forget: Binoculars. With such wide-open views and abundant wildlife, field glasses increase and enhance your sightings.


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TRIP 4: THE YUKON RIVERThe Yukon River is North Americas third longest river and

until roads were built in the 40s, it was a travel corridor

for First Nations, gold rush stampeders and early settlers.

Along the way, your guides will share historical adventure

stories and show you old cabins, boat wreckages, gold

dredges and other storied relics along the rivers edge.

But its not just one long history lesson: The Yukon River offers rich wildlife sightings against a backdrop of rolling mountains and tall sandy cliffs. Its also a flat, fast-moving river, making it appealing to beginners or those wishing to paddle it in a kayak. Group trips on the Yukon are popular because theres something to please everyone, says guide Chris Pigden. Beautiful scenery, perfect campsites, easy

paddling, great history, culture and storytelling and tons of wildlife.

All trips offered by Yukon Wild operators end at Dawson City, home of the great Klondike Gold Rush. Trips start at either Whitehorse, Lake Laberge, Carmacks or Minto Landing, depending on how many days you want your trip to be. Day trips out of Whitehorse are also popular.

Trip type: Canoe, kayak or raft.

Duration: 1 to 20 days, but most trips take a week.



Getting There: Most trips start in Whitehorse but your guides might shuttle everyone upriver if you choose a shorter trip.

Getting Back: Your operator will transport you back to Whitehorse from Dawson City down the Klondike Highway.

Dont forget: Pierre Bertons classic book Klondike.

WHILE YOURE UP HEREExtend your stay. Tack on another fun adventure to your paddling trip. The Yukon is packed with amazing stuff to do:

A guided excursion on world-class mountain biking trails.

Hiking mountains big or small: the options are endless.

Boating the gorgeous Southern Lakes or fishing a mountain stream.

ATV and 4x4 tours in the alpine.

Trotting along a scenic trail by horseback.

Go with the experts. Yukon Wild operators know the best spots, have the top gear and save you time and hassle.

yukonwild.com


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TRIP 5: THE BIG SALMON The Big Salmon is the perfect trip for beginners or paddlers

new to wilderness tripping who want to play it safe but

with all the excitement, beauty and wilderness youd expect.

Its also one of the most affordable wilderness canoe trips

in the Yukon as there are no floatplanes involved.

It starts as a cozy, winding, little river, traversing a series of large scenic lakes connected by fun, fast-flowing sections. With every bend, the river changes, from a quick section of fast water to clear views of the Pelly Mountains to sightings with moose or black bear. Day hikes are included in some tours and if youre into fishing, be sure to bring a rod. The Big Salmon boasts excellent Arctic grayling and pike fishing

salmon, too, if you time it with their spawning run. If theres an angler in the group, dinners on the Big Salmon almost always involve fish even if its just for yummy appetizers, says canoe-guide Kaelin Shea.

Trip type: Canoe.

Duration: 10 to 18 days.

When to Go: June to September.

Skill Level: Beginner, but fun for all levels.

Getting There: Guides will shuttle you from Whitehorse to the put-in at Quiet Lake, just off the scenic South Canol Highway.

Getting Back: After the Big Salmon merges with the mighty Yukon River, theres a full-day paddle downstream before you arrive at the village of Carmacks. Hop on the shuttle van for the two-hour drive back to Whitehorse.

Dont forget: Your fishing rod.


EXPERTS KNOW BESTYukon Wild is a membership-based organization of Yukons most experienced, fully licensed guides. Set your spirit free knowing your guide is committed to getting you the ultimate outdoor adventure in a safe and eco-friendly way. With quality equipment, detailed itineraries and insight necessary to access Canadas treasure trove of backcountry adventures, you will be in good hands.

yukonwild.com


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TRIP 6: THE TESLIN RIVERA wide, fast but gentle river, the Teslin offers beautiful

scenery, excellent campsites and plentiful moose and wolf

habitat. As one of the Yukon Rivers largest tributaries,

canoe trips start at the rivers upper reaches, at the end of

Teslin Lake where the Alaska Highway crosses the river.

Once a traditional route for Klondike gold-seekers, your

guides will tell campfire stories of their misadventures

and point out historical relics they left behind.

Dont be mistaken: nature still reigns on the Teslin. Youll be awed as it flows past tall sandy cliffs, gravel bars pock-marked with moose and wolf prints and many islands and sloughs favoured by moose. Keep your ears tuned for wolves howling. Its a soundtrack to match the rivers haunting beauty.

I loved the number of animal tracks we saw on the Teslin, says Terry Creamer, a paddler from Yukon. Every time we pulled over, we would go looking for tracks, and try to figure out what story they told.

Trip Type: Canoe.

Duration: 7 to 9 days.



Getting There: A short hour and a half drive from Whitehorse, your put-in is at historic Johnsons Crossing on the Alaska Highway.

Getting Back: Trips end at either Little Salmon Village or Carmacks on the Yukon River. Guides will shuttle you back to Whitehorse via the Klondike Highway.

Dont Forget: Your ID books for tracking or bird watching.


WINTER ADVENTURES IN THE YUKONA winter trip to the Yukon is just as incredible as a summer trip: simply replace the midnight sun with northern lights and away you go! From dog sledding trips to alpine snowmobiling to backcountry ski touring to cozying up in a remote cabin to watch the aurora borealis, we have your perfect winter getaway. Go to yukonwild.com to check out what our experienced operators have to offer.

Experts know the BEST SPOTS



World DestinationsBC Marine Trails update by Stephanie Meinke

how many readers of Coast & Kayak Magazine remember attending the BC Marine Trails grand opening during the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in 2011?

I remember the awesome sight of more than 100 paddlers converging on Transfer Beach with paddles held vertical and even a group roll to salute Chief John Elliot of the Stzuminus First Nation as he welcomed them all to his ancestral land. It was a symbolic display, yes, but it really meant something: the BC Marine Trails vision was becoming a reality.

Imagine a network of marine trails crisscrossing the same way the ocean flows in and around every island, islet, bay and inlet. Along these trails will be access points, rest stops and campsites along the whole 27,000 kilometres of British Columbias coastline.

So here we are, almost three years after the grand opening, still working on creating the BC Marine Trails Network. The progress since includes a fairly

Association initiative and some of our accomplishments to date, particularly on the map page. The map presently displays about 170 sites that have been given status shown as Approved BCMTNA sites. It also shows 220 more sites that are designated Other, meaning sites located on some form of public land that are already publicly known, but which have not yet gained formal approval by stakeholders to be listed as an approved BCMTNA site. The map also displays more than 170 access and launch sites.

Hidden within the database, however, we have compiled many more sites that we cannot yet display on the map. These have been acquired from paddlers, people who have visited them, various guide books and by BCMTNA volunteers. The total list of BCMTNA inventory sites is just over 2,000. That includes 1,070 known sites on public lands along the BC coast where it is possible to land and camp. Many of these hidden sites will

The southern approach to the Musgrave Point campsite. Bold Head and Cowichan Bay are to the left, Sansum Narrows is ahead and Saltspring Island to the right with Musgrave Point on the islands outer extent. The campsite is on Saltspring Island opposite the unnamed islet.

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extensive website (www.bcmarinetrails.org) where people can visualize the extent of the BC Marine Trails Network u


completion. Raising our profile here will spread awareness of the BC Marine Trails very effectively.

First and foremost, we will be negotiating for more overnight parking at launch points and for further campsites on public land. We will also be adding more commercial options on the trails. Additionally, we are adding signs to BC Marine Trails sites.

Many of us, justifiably, do not like to see signs cluttering up otherwise beautiful areas of natural wilderness, and so for the most part we plan on limiting BCMTNA signs to accesses and the more popular, busy sites. They will also be limited in size but still visible from the water. We are accelerating the consultations with the various land owners and managers to gain permission to install signs within the Gulf Islands Paddling Area this summer.

Musgrave Point on Saltspring Island will be the location for the very first BC Marine Trails sign. It is on a portion of Crown land under the jurisdiction of Recreation Sites and Trails BC.

The installation of this first sign will be marked with great fanfare as it is a symbolic and historical event for the

gradually appear in the Other category as we do preliminary suitability checks. After consultations with government, First Nations and other stakeholders, a good number of these will gain approved BCMTNA status.

A major problem however, is that even though the BCMTNA accomplishments are visible on its website, the BC Marine Trails initiative and its potential contribution to BC are not yet well known. Despite this the BCMTNA can benefit visitors by maintaining public access to the coast, preserve recreational values such as paddling, camping and wildlife viewing, and promote leave-no-trace ethics. It also assists the encouragement of economic growth through tourism within coastal towns and First Nations communities.

The BCMTNA needs to gain a higher profile than it presently has in order to increase support from government, communities, the public and potential users. With this in mind, even though the work of identifying new potential sites, ground-proofing and consultations with stakeholders will continue, we will be focusing significant energy this year to further develop established BCMTNA sites within the Gulf Islands Paddling Area, which includes all sites between Victoria and Nanaimo.

By developing one paddling area to near completion, we will be able to use it to illustrate the benefits of the BC Marine Trails to users and stakeholders in other areas of the coast. We have chosen the Gulf Islands because this large paddling area is already very popular and accessible, and well on its way to

BC Marine Trails: Musgrave Point is one of the few physical remnants from the efforts in the mid 1990s to establish a marine trail along the BC coast. At that time the original BC Marine Trail Association managed to get permission to locate a pit toilet on this spot. The precedent was set, and the toilet still stands twenty years later (in reasonably good shape, I might add, thanks to the diligence of the Saltspring Island Paddlers in maintaining it).

So on June 21, 2014, paddlers and guests will converge on this little site. Amongst great pomp and ceremony, and lots of food and fun, we will install the first BC Marine Trails sign.

The BC Marine Trails Network Association does not do the work alone. The partnership we have with Recreation Sites and Trails BC and assistance and cooperation of other government ministries, many First Nations, commercial supporters, sponsors and individual paddlers are all crucial to the continued growth of this initiative. We are thankful for the generous donations we have received from individuals and sponsors that help keep us going.

Lastly, we are very grateful for the dedication of the associations membership. The BCMTNA is comprised of 10 coastal paddling clubs whose members support our work through their BCMTNA membership fees, fundraising events and by supplying us with task force representatives and other volunteers. We cannot do this without them.

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association.

World DestinationsBC Marine Trails update

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Find more than 100 pages of gear in the inaugural edition of Coast&Kayak Magazines Kayak Gear Guide. Check it out often we will be constantly adding new products and manufacturers throughout the year to make it the most comprehensive gear guide available anywhere. And its free! www.coastandkayak.com

COAsT&KAYAK MAgAZinE 2014 KAYAK geAR gUiDe 1www.coastandkayak.com

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The approach to the Musgrave Point campsite from the north.


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The Gulf Islands are laid out in full colour, 22x36 both sides in a reference designed by kayakers for kayakers. Its the essential part of your Gulf Islands kayak kit.


Destinations West Coast Vancouver Island

ToquahtTransitions

A kayak facility is just

one part of the changes

this year for Barkley

Sound

as riCK shafer leads a tour across the old Toquaht Bay Marina and Campground on a sunny January morning, the footsteps on gravel magnify the sense of abandonment. A sign posted over the information board explains it: Public safety notice...CLOSED until further notice.

Normally a busy spot, the marina is now just a set of empty fingers. The prime waterfront RV campsites are deserted, as is Barkley Sounds busiest boat launch. Its a bleak contrast to the beautiful waterfront seascape that stretches into Barkley Sound towards the Broken Group Islands, one of Vancouver Islands top tourism destinations. Even in January, the campground should host some RVers and boaters. Instead Shafer, Toquaht Nations economic development officer, and Toquaht councillor Noah Plonka are alone as they examine the old campground office, a trailer that is unlikely to be used

again. A nearby wooden shed holds more hope, but only if they can move it without damaging the roof.

The campground was closed in March,

2013 over concerns with high levels of arsenic, selenium and cobalt found in the soil a surprise to few, as the beachfront was created in large part by dumped tailings from the Brynnor Mine that operated nearby until the late 1960s. It produced high grade iron ore in an area known for its unusually high but naturally occurring arsenic levels.

The closure had a ripple effect across British Columbia. The boat launch was the key access point to the Broken Group Islands, particularly for kayakers who have few other options for reaching the popular archipelago within Pacific Rim National Park. But the closure was more immediately devastating for the Toquaht Nation community of Macoah, as it represented a primary economic enterprise as well as their sole marine access to the sound.

It was a real shock when that happened, says Toquaht Nation Chief

A lookout point with a fire pit at the new Secret Beach campsite.



Anne Mack. Previously a BC forest recreation site, it had been transferred to the Toquaht in 2011 as part of the Maa-nulth Treaty. The campground was a key component in a bid to add economic vitality to Macoah to bring people home. Out of a community membership of 149, just a handful about 15 members live in the communitys nine homes.

The campground was the cornerstone of about 1,200 hectares of land fronting Toquaht Bay that was transferred to the Toquaht through the treaty process. It was also part of a vision brought forward by Anne Macks father and former Toquaht Chief Bert Mack, who died in 2012 after heading the community for 67 years. His wish was to bring the community back together in their traditional home.

Dad was really concerned with us having access to the water and also the best economic drive for the Toquaht, which would be close to the water, Anne says. Thats basically why we want to keep the area as pristine as we can. Where else can you go and get this view and enjoy yourself without having traffic and cities and things surrounding you? Thats my dream, to keep it as pristine as possible.

The closure had one fortunate side-effect. The Toquaht already had plans approved to build a second campground nearby intended for long-term leaseholders. So they were able to fast-track the construction of a replacement

campground, and today the finishing touches are being put on the first stage to open it this spring.

In addition, a new kayak and cartop-only launch has been created with its own access road and staging area. Shafer said final touches may include a covered pavilion with a fireplace for kayakers to warm up after a wet trip and possibly even trolleys for moving kayaks around.

Even without, it is already bar none the most developed kayak launch in British Columbia. Tonnes of boulders piled to create the access road are testimony to the work involved.

Kayakers have a great respect for land and environment, so thats why we wanted to set them up for something nice to get to the islands, Anne says.

Development of the new site was funded through a shared-cost agreement between Toquaht Nation and the BC government. As far as I know, this agreement is the first of its kind and will help us continue to promote local tourism and provide access to Barkley Sound for kayakers and local outfitters, Anne says. This is a good example of how treaties can enhance positive government-to-government relationships.

Its also, somewhat ironically perhaps, an example of how British Columbians will have more public access to the shores of Barkley Sound as a result of the treaty. Thats no mistake, as the Toquaht Nation is placing a key emphasis on tourism as it sets a new course through its post-treaty strategy. This has spurred a new age of optimism within the community, which broke off from the Nuu-chah-nulth Treaty Group and instead teamed up with four other Nuu-chah-nulth Nations to form the Maa-nulth Treaty Group. The Toquaht citizens voted in favour of the treaty in 2007, it was given royal assent in 2009 and implemented in 2011. By contrast, the Nuu-chah-nulth Treaty Group talks are stalled.

Following the ratification, the Toquaht

The old Toquaht Bay Marina and Campground sits deserted in early 2014, with a CLOSED sign proclaiming its fate.

Toquaht Nation Chief Anne Mack stands on the access road to the new kayak and car-topper launch, a key part of the puzzle to the Toquaht Nations revitalization. u


WHALING STATION

spent the first years developing its laws. That took a lot of energy out of us,

Anne says, but we got them done and now we have our laws that we follow again and that govern us. Were feeling good about that and things are starting to move.

In addition to the new campground the Toquaht are moving ahead with the development of about 100 waterside cabins. Its a project possible only since the treaty, which removed the disabling reserve status to Toquaht land, allowing local control and development.

As further local benefit, the Toquaht will build the cabins using wood from a community wood lot milled in the Macoah sawmill.

Other developments include the possibility of a run-of-water hydro project at nearby Lucky Creek and the building of an administrative office and community centre.

But the main need remains housing something that was impossible prior to the treaty as Macoahs residents lacked both electricity and water. Those are now in place.


When we did a health needs assessment back in 2008 we had a questionnaire asking if there were employment and possible housing, would you consider coming back, and I think more than 65 percent said they would

love to come back, Anne says. But we couldnt build any more houses because we were on a diesel generator. So now we have the potential to expand.

The community hall will be a key part of that.

A look at the expansive new campsite prior to landscaping. It opens this spring.


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home and thats something we want to build, a longhouse or a place to gather as we dont have a hall like other nations have for people to come home and gather. That was one of their big wishes in the health needs assessment they wanted a place to come home to and visit. Now its possible to do that with hydro and the water facility treatment plant put in last year. We hadnt been able to drink water since probably the community was built back in the 1980s, she says.

Even their wood lot is giving a sense of renewed energy to the Toquaht.

My great-grandfather said he cried when he saw all these trees getting mowed down and not a cent was going to his people. Its just getting people home and the ability to be sustainable again as we had been. We had everything in our whole territory at one point.

As Anne leads a tour across gravel roadways cut to create the new campground, she gives full credit to the treaty for making this happen.

Its a game-changer. None of this could have happened without the treaty.

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Dawn breaKs early over the flat desert of Southern Baja, casting long gray shadows of cactus on the ground that quickly recede like silent fingers sliding across the earth. Morning ground fog coats the landscape to hide the nocturnal hunters scurrying for their burrows before the baking heat of midday. In the distance the Sierra de Santa Clara Mountains lose their evening coating of purple as the sun burns them to their normal hazy brown. Like rolling balls of cotton, the fog hugs the base of these primeval mountains and only under the relentless rays of the sun will it finally morph into a surreal yellow haze coating the land.

Looking southeast the majestic dome of the closest volcano, the largest of the trio known as the Three Virgins, raises its head above the morning cloud cover and the first osprey leaves its nest in a mangrove forest in search of breakfast.

This impressionist landscape may seem barren, perhaps even hostile, but it is teeming with life. As the creatures of the night seek their dens, the lords of the realm, the gray whales, become active.

At high tide Mexicos San Ignacio Lagoon is no more than 30 metres deep in the main channels and as little as three metres in the shallows where the whales go to bottom feed. It is flushed twice a day by a rapid tidal flow. At low tide almost one quarter of the lagoon is left high and dry. This is when the coyotes scurry out onto the flats to dig for clams and scallops, their coats gleaming from a diet high in protein. If they are fortunate they

might find a metre-long eel that chose to hibernate at the high water line.

At high tide the boats put in. No more than 16 are allowed at a time throughout the entire lagoon. This assures enough space between boats so the animals cannot be crowded. It is a rule rigidly enforced by a warden granted police powers.

My panga is no more than three feet above the surface and so gives a whales-eye perspective of the vast expanse of the lagoon. In certain areas the lagoon is so wide you cannot see land on either side. In the morning the water is usually flat and calm like a mirrored lake. Whale blows pop up everywhere like thousands of lawn sprinklers, sometimes so many they create a rainbow prism as the mist floats over the water.

In the mangroves away from the main whale channels I can spot kayakers paddling among throngs of seabirds where weary night herons sit motionless after a nights hunt and countless egrets, cormorants, ibis, sandpipers and osprey dot the sky.

I like to pick a spot and fix my gaze there as rostrums of all shapes and sizes poke slowly above the water, taking that first look around for the day. Vertical bodies begin to rise out of the water then gently slip back below as whales spyhop and occasionally breach.

If the morning is calm I will lie flat on the panga floor with my ear to the fibreglass hull and listen to the distinct but barely audible whale talk going on below me. Gray whales do vocalize but not generally on a frequency humans can hear, but when so

many are talking I definitely can hear some of what they are saying using the panga or kayak hull like a giant amplifier.

Suddenly a baby whale surfaces inches away, lunging, ramming the boat and spinning in excitement. Its a newborns first boat encounter. Newborns are called pickles because that is exactly what they look like, rounded at both ends with wrinkled skin, limp tail flukes and pectoral fins, seeming like rag dolls for the first few hours until they magically

Wildlife/Ecology by James Michael Dorsey

Touched by whales

T h e B a h a m a s . . .

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inflate with life and slowly begin to resemble a whale. They are completely smooth and will not attract their first barnacles for at least two weeks. Mothers are overly protective for the first month and usually will not allow them to approach a boat or vice versa, but as the

young whale rapidly grows, gaining up to 100 pounds a day, that wariness will quickly evaporate.

Mother will never be far away even if she does not immediately show herself. She is rewarding junior for his good behavior with this visit and when she feels

he has had enough she will surface and make it clear that playtime is over. But before that happens, if she is at ease with the boat she has chosen she may allow the rapidly tiring baby to climb on her back or hold it up with a pectoral fin to continue making human contact. These mothers are proud of their offspring and love to show them off to visitors, so if the connection is going well they might stay for an hour or more. Sometimes while baby is keeping our attention, mother will slide directly below us to rub her barnacles on our keel.

Babies will jet around the boat from one end to the other, sometimes deliberately spitting water at us as accurately as using a super soaker because everything on the water is there for their pleasure and we are just a large toy to them. They will roll on their backs like a dog or simply keep rolling over and over in all-out glee. Tiring quickly they will retreat with mother to a shallow spot to nurse. Baby will nurse for about seven to eight months and then be on its own, a solitary creature for the rest of its life except for brief bouts of mating.

Being able to interact with a newborn wild animal is always an incredible gift, but having their mothers bring them to you, seeking human acceptance and touch, is an experience that cannot truly be put into words.

Coast&Kayak Magazine is thrilled to be able to serialize portions of James Dorseys upcoming book Dancing With Dinosaurs, his insights into 15 years as a

naturalist studying whales. Visit www.jamesdorsey.com

Wildlife/Ecology by James Michael Dorsey

James Dorseys office is a 22-foot open boat, often surrounded by 40-tonne whales. When not working he can be found wandering through the backwater channels in a kayak. This is his day at work.

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Wildlife/Ecology San Ignacio Lagoon


Wildlife/Ecology San Ignacio Lagoon

Scenes of family life at San Ignacio Lagoon, Mexico. Left: A baby gray and two females. Above and below: Baby grays and their mother.


Day trips Desolation Sound/Discovery Islands

Desolation, the Copeland way

its easy to fall in love with the Copeland Islands. There arent many archipelagos as suited to kayaks without requiring a long paddle to reach. And once here, the biggest decision is whether to enjoy the islands from the water by paddling around them or by relaxing and enjoying the views from the comfort of your campsite.

Yes, de-stressing here comes as naturally as tents above a group of beached kayaks.

There are two key points of entry from mainland BC to

Desolation Sound: Lund on the outer sound or the launch in Okeover Arm Provincial Park on the inner waters. Being on the outside, Lund has the distinct advantage of avoiding currents; youll get to know those well if you want to reach Desolation Sound through Malaspina Inlet. Plus there is the no-nonsense ease of reaching Copeland Islands Marine Provincial Park. It is

such a simple trip it might seem too easy in the planning stage, but there is value in being able to set up in an idyllic and pristine little archipelago not long after checking out of civilization.

Copeland Islands form a long, narrow archipelago with the southern extent just three kilometres from the launch at Lund. From there it is only another three or four kilometres farther north to the parks two official campsites.

The campsite setup changed in 2013 when tent platforms and rustic facilities replaced the old camp-where-you-find-a-spot system. It is a significant improvement. The platforms are beautifully placed, overlooking the water on the smaller islet campsite or dispersed over the water or in the forest on the larger island. The result is sunsets like this one: among the finest to be found anywhere in British Columbia. Its not an idle boast the sunsets are truly special here. It could be the smog from Vancouver distilled to just the right level of pollution to

Copeland Islands are a candidate for the best sunset in BC category, assuming that such a category exists. Is it the proximity to Vancouvers smog that creates scenes like these, or is it a more natural phenomenon? Either way it makes for a wonderful end to a day.



Day trips Desolation Sound/Discovery Islands

get that perfect orange tinge, or it could be a completely natural occurrence that favours this area with an especially colourful end of day. Either way on a clear or lightly cloudy evening the view is stunning.

The Copeland Islands were designated a provincial marine park in 1971, and are grouped as part of a management cluster of parks within the Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park management umbrella. Overall there are now 11 designated park campsites in the area that make for easy hops by kayak, with Copeland Islands making a good base for first and last days out thanks to the short distance from the launch at Lund.

The islands are remarkably pristine given their short tenure as a park, and even contain old-growth forest, a fact hardly noticeable given the small stature of the trees. That effect is created by the dry climate, poor soil and winter winds. Animal residents are visitors such as deer, otters, eagles and a variety of bird species,

particularly western grebes, surf scoters, cormorants, marbled murrelet and even a few black oystercatchers.

A complex marine habitat comes courtesy of the many reefs and the shallow ocean floor surrounding the islands, and so is home to clams, oysters, prawns, crabs and sea urchins for invertebrates and fish such as rockfish, herring and juvenile salmon. Marine mammals could include sea lions and Dall or harbour porpoises.

New in 2014 is an honour system for campsite fees. And if your plans dont include camping, the Copeland Islands make a carefree and scenic day trip from Lund. You may even see humpback or killer whales if you venture to the outer islands. Excellent accommodation options along the Sunshine Coast add to the appeal of day trips. A whole range of prices and styles of resorts can be found in Powell River, Pender Harbour and Sechelt.

Copeland Islands

Malaspina Inlet

Savary I. To Powell River

OkeoverArm PP

Lund

Cortes I.

Redonda Is.

DesolationSound ProvincialParkDesolationSound

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Day trips Desol

Documents

Spring 2014 Coast&Kayak Magazine