South Florida Edibles to Plant by Month Annotated

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  • 8/14/2019 South Florida Edibles to Plant by Month Annotated

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    Edibles to Plant in August

    Crop Location Planting Date Harvest Period

    Amaranth Am1 1-Aug greens October 1 through grainDecember 1-31

    Beans Yard-Long Bn4 1-Aug October 1-30

    Broccoli Br1 1-Aug October 15 - November 15

    Cabbage Cb1 1-Aug October 15 - November 15Celery (chill/presprout in freezer) Cy1 1-Aug plant October 1 for harvest February

    1-28Collards Cd1 1-Aug October 1-31

    Eggplant Eg1 1-Aug November 1-30

    Garden Berry GB1 1-Aug November 1-30

    Kale, Mustard, Pak Choi cooking CG1 1-Aug October 1-31

    Mustard, Pak Choi salad SG1 1-Aug September 1-30

    Okra Ok1 1-Aug October 1-November 15

    Peppers Pp1 1-Aug November 1-30

    Pumpkin Seminole PS2 1-Aug December 1-31Strawberries (chill/presprout in

    freezer)

    St1 1-Aug plant October 1 for harvest February

    1-28Tomatillos TL1 1-Aug November 1-30

    Tomatoes Cherry Tm1 1-Aug November 1-30

    Water Leaves WL1 1-Aug October 1-31

    Melons ML1 & 2 15-Aug November 1-30

    Mustard, Pak Choi salad SG2 15-Aug September 15-October 15

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    Notes for August

    Warm-Season Crops (use up to 33 available spots in TVA or Potager, plus 5 shallow self-watering containers

    vacated by cool-season crops):

    * Amaranth grow leaf varieties anywhere, but grain types are best in the TVA because they are tall and will bethere a long time need 5 areas for both types (can be interplanted if desired) Callaloo is probably a

    type of Amaranth

    * Beans Yard Long plant on teepees in Potager boxes & on other supports soak seeds before planting

    * Cuban or Seminole Pumpkin grow as groundcovers in TVA or in deep self-watering containers vacated bycool-season vegetables that will be empty for 3-4 months need 6 areas

    * Malabar Spinach needs support, so use the ones from Tomato containers need 4 areas

    * Water Leaves take cuttings and grow in any available spot vacated by cool-season crops, esp. shallow self-watering containers need 3 areas

    Cool-Season Crops:

    * Broccoli, Cabbage & Collards need plenty of space so better in beds than containers Broccoli & Collards

    hold a long time in the garden

    * Celery & Strawberries chill & pre-sprout seeds (spread on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up and placein a plastic bag in the freezer for 2 months, then take bag out and put on top of the refrigerator check

    every couple of days until little white roots peek out of the seeds, then plant) plant in self-wateringcontainers (deep for Celery, shallow for Strawberries) shade during hottest months

    * Eggplant, Garden Berries, Peppers & Tomatoes plant in deep self-watering containers all are happier withsome support Tomatoes need very strong teepees or cages these plants can hold a long time in the

    garden shade during hottest months

    * Herbs plant all except mints in Herb Circle or in non-self-watering containers (they will rot with too muchmoisture) many will hold into hottest months with shade Garlic Chives, Lemongrass, Oregano &

    Rosemary are perennial with good drainage Sage, Scented Geraniums & Thyme can last through the

    summer in well-drained pots kept out of rain (west-facing porch just under overhang works well)* Melons plant in deep self-watering containers (2 plants in each) on Patio trellis to top use parthenocarpic

    varieties or hand-pollinate

    * Mixed Cooking Greens (Kale, Mustard, Pak Choi) plant in enriched Potager quarters or TVA spots Kaleholds a long time in the garden, Mustard gets hot very quickly so harvest young

    * Mixed Salad Greens (Mustard, Pak Choi) plant in shallow self-watering container - ready in 4 weeks,

    harvest for 4 weeks (cutting 3-4 times), then empty & replant in partial shade by N fence shade during

    hottest months (could move onto porch or behind a trellis once plants are growing well) Mustard getshot very quickly so harvest young

    * Tomatillos plant in enriched Potager quarters with 2 supports

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    Edibles to Plant in September

    Crop Location Planting Date Harvest Period

    Amaranth Am2 1-Sep greens November 1 through grainJanuary 1-31

    Basil HCB1 1-Sep October 1-31

    Beans Pole & Snap Bn1 1-Sep November 1-30

    Broccoli Br2 1-Sep November 15 - December 15Fennel Bulb FB1 1-Sep November 1-30

    Cabbage Cb2 1-Sep November 15 - December 15

    Celery (chill/presprout in freezer) Cy2 1-Sep plant November 1 for harvest March

    1-31Celery Leaf HCCL1 1-Sep October 1-31

    Chard Swiss Ch1 1-Sep 11/01/30

    Collards Cd2 1-Sep November 1-30

    Cucumbers Cu1 1-Sep November 1-30

    Dill HCD1 1-Sep October 1-31- November 30

    Eggplant Eg2 1-Sep December 1-31Garlic, Onions GO1 1-Sep scallions October 1 through bulbs

    January 1-31Kale, Mustard, Pak Choi cooking CG1 1-Sep November 1-30

    Lettuce, Mustard, Pak Choi salad SG1 1-Sep October 1-31

    Melons ML3 & 4 1-Sep October 1-31

    Parsley HCP1 1-Sep October 1-31

    Peppers Pp2 1-Sep December 1-31

    Pumpkin Seminole PS3 1-Sep January 1-31

    Shallots Sh1 1-Sep scallions October 1 through bulbs

    January 1-31Strawberries (chill/presprout in

    freezer)

    St2 1-Sep plant November 1 for harvest March

    1-31Tomatillos TL2 1-Sep December 1-31

    Tomatoes Cherry Tm2 1-Sep December 1-31

    Zucchini Z1 1-Sep November 1-30

    Fennel Bulb FB2 15-Sep November 15 - December 15

    Cucumbers Cu2 15-Sep November 15 - December 15

    Lettuce, Mustard, Pak Choi salad SG2 15-Sep October 15 - November 15

    Okra Ok2 15-Sep November 15 - December 31

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    Notes for September

    Warm-Season Crops (use up to 33 available spots in TVA or Potager, plus 5 shallow self-watering containers

    vacated by cool-season crops):

    * Amaranth grow leaf varieties anywhere, but grain types are best in the TVA because they are tall and will bethere a long time need 5 areas for both types (can be interplanted if desired) Callaloo is probably a

    type of Amaranth

    Cool-Season Crops:* Beans plant on teepees or in self-watering containers with supports soak seeds before planting

    * Beets, Carrots & Radishes plant in deep containers or long planters soak Beet seeds before planting

    Radishes get very hot if they don't get enough water or stand in the garden too long plant extra Carrotsat end of season and put in partial shade to prolong harvest for another month

    * Broccoli, Cabbage & Collards need plenty of space so better in beds than containers Broccoli & Collards

    hold a long time in the garden* Celery & Strawberries chill & pre-sprout seeds (spread on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up and place

    in a plastic bag in the freezer for 2 months, then take bag out and put on top of the refrigerator check

    every couple of days until little white roots peek out of the seeds, then plant) plant in self-wateringcontainers (deep for Celery, shallow for Strawberries) shade during hottest months

    * Chard soak seeds before planting* Cucumbers plant in self-watering buckets on Patio along sunnier south side of door trellis to top use

    parthenocarpic varieties* Eggplant, Garden Berries, Peppers & Tomatoes plant in deep self-watering containers all are happier with

    some support Tomatoes need very strong teepees or cages these plants can hold a long time in the

    garden shade during hottest months* Garlic, Leeks, Onions & Shallots plant in shallow self-watering containers, or enriched Potager quarters

    * Fennel & Parsley pre-sprout seeds before planting (spread on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up and

    place in a plastic bag on top of the refrigerator check every couple of days until little white roots peekout of the seeds, then plant) plant in flat with Basil move to final location in enriched Potager

    quarters or non-self-watering containers when 3" tall

    * Herbs plant all except mints in Herb Circle or in non-self-watering containers (they will rot with too muchmoisture) many will hold into hottest months with shade Garlic Chives, Lemongrass, Oregano &Rosemary are perennial with good drainage Sage, Scented Geraniums & Thyme can last through the

    summer in well-drained pots kept out of rain (west-facing porch just under overhang works well)

    * Melons & Zucchini plant in deep self-watering containers (2 plants in each) on Patio trellis to top useparthenocarpic varieties or hand-pollinate

    * Mixed Cooking Greens plant in enriched Potager quarters or TVA spots Kale holds a long time in the

    garden, Mustard gets hot very quickly so harvest young* Mixed Salad Greens plant in shallow self-watering container - ready in 4 weeks, harvest for 4 weeks

    (cutting 3-4 times), then empty & replant in partial shade by N fence shade during hottest months

    (could move onto porch or behind a trellis once plants are growing well) Mustard gets hot very quickly

    so harvest young* Tomatillos plant in enriched Potager quarters with 2 supports

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    Edibles to Plant in October

    Crop Area Planting Date Harvest Period

    Arugula, Lettuce, Mustard, Pak Choisalad

    SG3 1-Oct November 1-30

    Basil HCB2 1-Oct November 1-30

    Beans Pole & Snap Bn2 1-Oct December 1-31

    Beets, Carrots Bt1 & Cr1 1-Oct December 1-31Broccoli Br3 1-Oct December 15 - January 15

    Fennel Bulb FB3 1-Oct December 1-31

    Cabbage Cb3 1-Oct December 15 - January 15

    Celery Cy1 1-Oct February 1-28

    Celery (presprout) Cy3 1-Oct plant December 1 for harvest April

    1-30

    Celery Leaf HCCL2 1-Oct November 1-30

    Cilantro HCCt1 1-Oct November 1-7

    Collards Cd3 1-Oct December 1-31

    Cucumbers Cu3 1-Oct December 1-31Eggplant Eg3 1-Oct January 1-31

    Garden Berry GB3 1-Oct January 1-31

    Garlic, Onions GO2 1-Oct scallions November through bulbs

    FebruaryKale, Mustard, Pak Choi cooking CG2 1-Oct December 1-31

    Leeks Lk1 1-Oct February 1-28

    Parsley HCP2 1-Oct November 1-30

    Peppers Pp3 1-Oct January 1-31

    Radishes R1 1-Oct November 1-7

    Shallots Sh2 1-Oct scallions November through bulbsFebruary

    Tomatillos TL3 1-Oct January 1-31

    Tomatoes Beefsteak & Paste Tm3 1-Oct January 1-31

    Zucchini Z2 1-Oct December 1-31

    Cilantro HCCt 8-Oct November 8-14

    Radishes R2 8-Oct November 8-14

    Arugula, Lettuce, Mustard, Pak Choi

    salad

    SG4 15-Oct November 15 - December 15

    Fennel Bulb FB4 15-Oct December 15 - January 15

    Cilantro HC 15-Oct November 15-21Cucumbers C4 15-Oct December 15 - January 15

    Radishes R3 15-Oct November 15-21

    Cilantro HC 22-Oct November 22-31

    Radishes R4 22-Oct November 22-31

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    Notes for October

    Cool-Season Crops:

    * Beans plant on teepees or in self-watering containers with supports soak seeds before planting

    * Beets, Carrots & Radishes plant in deep containers or long planters soak Beet seeds before planting Radishes get very hot if they don't get enough water or stand in the garden too long plant extra Carrots

    at end of season and put in partial shade to prolong harvest for another month

    * Broccoli, Cabbage & Collards need plenty of space so better in beds than containers Broccoli & Collards

    hold a long time in the garden* Celery & Strawberries chill & pre-sprout seeds (spread on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up and place

    in a plastic bag in the freezer for 2 months, then take bag out and put on top of the refrigerator check

    every couple of days until little white roots peek out of the seeds, then plant) plant in self-wateringcontainers (deep for Celery, shallow for Strawberries) shade during hottest months

    * Chard soak seeds before planting

    * Cucumbers plant in self-watering buckets on Patio along sunnier south side of door trellis to top useparthenocarpic varieties

    * Eggplant, Garden Berries, Peppers & Tomatoes plant in deep self-watering containers all are happier with

    some support Tomatoes need very strong teepees or cages these plants can hold a long time in thegarden shade during hottest months

    * Garlic, Leeks, Onions & Shallots plant in shallow self-watering containers, or enriched Potager quarters* Fennel & Parsley pre-sprout seeds before planting (spread on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up and

    place in a plastic bag on top of the refrigerator check every couple of days until little white roots peekout of the seeds, then plant) plant in flat with Basil move to final location in enriched Potager

    quarters or non-self-watering containers when 3" tall

    * Herbs plant all except mints in Herb Circle or in non-self-watering containers (they will rot with too muchmoisture) many will hold into hottest months with shade Garlic Chives, Lemongrass, Oregano &

    Rosemary are perennial with good drainage Sage, Scented Geraniums & Thyme can last through the

    summer in well-drained pots kept out of rain (west-facing porch just under overhang works well)* Melons & Zucchini plant in deep self-watering containers (2 plants in each) on Patio trellis to top use

    parthenocarpic varieties or hand-pollinate

    * Mixed Cooking Greens plant in enriched Potager quarters or TVA spots Kale holds a long time in thegarden, Mustard gets hot very quickly so harvest young

    * Mixed Salad Greens plant in shallow self-watering container - ready in 4 weeks, harvest for 4 weeks

    (cutting 3-4 times), then empty & replant in partial shade by N fence shade during hottest months

    (could move onto porch or behind a trellis once plants are growing well)* Tomatillos plant in enriched Potager quarters with 2 supports

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    Edibles to Plant in November

    Crop Area Planting Date Harvest Period

    Arugula, Lettuce, Mustard, Pak Choi SG1 1-Nov December 1-31

    Basil, Celery Leaf, Parsley HC 1-Nov December 1-31

    Beans Pole & Snap Bn3 1-Nov January 1-31

    Beets, Carrots Bt2 & Cr2 1-Nov January 1-31

    Broccoli Br4 1-Nov January 15 - February 15Fennel Bulb FB1 1-Nov January 1-31

    Cabbage Cb4 1-Nov January 15 - February 15

    Celery Cy2 1-Nov March 1-31

    Celery (presprout) Cy4 1-Nov plant January 1 for harvest May 1-31

    Cilantro HC 1-Nov December 1-7

    Collards Cd3 1-Nov January 1-31

    Cucumbers C5 1-Nov January 1-31

    Dill HC 1-Nov December 1-January 31

    Garden Berry EG4 1-Nov February 1-28

    Garlic, Onions, Shallots GO3 & S3 1-Nov scallions December through bulbsMarch

    Leeks L2 1-Nov March 1-31

    Mustard, Kale, Pak Choi CG3 1-Nov January 1-31

    Peppers P4 1-Nov February 1-28

    Radishes R5 1-Nov December 1-7

    Tomatillos TL4 1-Nov February 1-28

    Tomatoes Beefsteak & Paste T4 1-Nov February 1-28

    Zucchini Z3 1-Nov January 1-31

    Cilantro HC 8-Nov December 8-14

    Radishes R1 8-Nov December 8-14

    Arugula, Lettuce, Mustard, Pak Choi SG2 15-Nov December 15 - January 15

    Fennel Bulb FB2 15-Nov January 15 - February 15

    Cilantro HC 15-Nov December 15-21

    Cucumbers C6 15-Nov January 15 - February 15

    Radishes R2 15-Nov December 15-21

    Cilantro HC 22-Nov December 22-31

    Radishes R3 22-Nov December 22-31

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    Notes for November

    Cool-Season Crops:

    * Beans plant on teepees or in self-watering containers with supports soak seeds before planting

    * Beets, Carrots & Radishes plant in deep containers or long planters soak Beet seeds before planting Radishes get very hot if they don't get enough water or stand in the garden too long plant extra Carrots

    at end of season and put in partial shade to prolong harvest for another month

    * Broccoli, Cabbage & Collards need plenty of space so better in beds than containers Broccoli & Collards

    hold a long time in the garden* Celery & Strawberries chill & pre-sprout seeds (spread on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up and place

    in a plastic bag in the freezer for 2 months, then take bag out and put on top of the refrigerator check

    every couple of days until little white roots peek out of the seeds, then plant) plant in self-wateringcontainers (deep for Celery, shallow for Strawberries) shade during hottest months

    * Chard soak seeds before planting

    * Cucumbers plant in self-watering buckets on Patio along sunnier south side of door trellis to top useparthenocarpic varieties

    * Eggplant, Garden Berries, Peppers & Tomatoes plant in deep self-watering containers all are happier with

    some support Tomatoes need very strong teepees or cages these plants can hold a long time in thegarden shade during hottest months

    * Garlic, Leeks, Onions & Shallots plant in shallow self-watering containers, or enriched Potager quarters* Fennel & Parsley pre-sprout seeds before planting (spread on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up and

    place in a plastic bag on top of the refrigerator check every couple of days until little white roots peekout of the seeds, then plant) plant in flat with Basil move to final location in enriched Potager

    quarters or non-self-watering containers when 3" tall

    * Herbs plant all except mints in Herb Circle or in non-self-watering containers (they will rot with too muchmoisture) many will hold into hottest months with shade Garlic Chives, Lemongrass, Oregano &

    Rosemary are perennial with good drainage Sage, Scented Geraniums & Thyme can last through the

    summer in well-drained pots kept out of rain (west-facing porch just under overhang works well)* Melons & Zucchini plant in deep self-watering containers (2 plants in each) on Patio trellis to top use

    parthenocarpic varieties or hand-pollinate

    * Mixed Cooking Greens plant in enriched Potager quarters or TVA spots Kale holds a long time in thegarden, Mustard gets hot very quickly so harvest young

    * Mixed Salad Greens plant in shallow self-watering container - ready in 4 weeks, harvest for 4 weeks

    (cutting 3-4 times), then empty & replant in partial shade by N fence shade during hottest months

    (could move onto porch or behind a trellis once plants are growing well)* Tomatillos plant in enriched Potager quarters with 2 supports

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    Edibles to Plant in December

    Crop Area Planting Date Harvest Period

    Arugula, Lettuce, Mustard, Pak Choi SG3 1-Dec January 1-31

    Basil, Celery Leaf, Parsley HC 1-Dec January 1-31

    Beans Pole & Snap Bn4 1-Dec February 1-28

    Beets, Carrots Bt3 & Cr3 1-Dec February 1-28

    Broccoli Br1 1-Dec February 15 - March 15Fennel Bulb FB3 1-Dec February 1-28

    Cabbage Cb1 1-Dec February 15 - March 15

    Celery Cy3 1-Dec April 1-30

    Cilantro HC 1-Dec January 1-7

    Collards Cd1 1-Dec February 1-28

    Cucumbers C1 1-Dec February 1-28

    Garden Berry EG5 1-Dec March 1-31

    Garlic, Onions, Shallots GO4 & S4 1-Dec scallions January

    Leeks L3 1-Dec April 1-30

    Mustard, Kale, Pak Choi CG4 1-Dec February 1-28

    Peppers P5 1-Dec March 1-31

    Radishes R4 1-Dec January 1-7

    Tomatillos TL5 1-Dec March 1-31

    Tomatoes Beefsteak & Paste T5 1-Dec March 1-31

    Zucchini Z1 1-Dec February 1-28

    Cilantro HC 8-Dec January 8-14

    Radishes R5 8-Dec January 8-14

    Arugula, Lettuce, Mustard, Pak Choi SG4 15-Dec January 15 - February 15

    Fennel Bulb FB4 15-Dec February 15 - March 15

    Cilantro HC 15-Dec January 15-21

    Cucumbers C2 15-Dec February 15 - March 15

    Radishes R1 15-Dec January 15-21

    Cilantro HC 22-Dec January 22-31

    Radishes R2 22-Dec January 22-31

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    Notes for December

    Cool-Season Crops:

    * Beans plant on teepees or in self-watering containers with supports soak seeds before planting

    * Beets, Carrots & Radishes plant in deep containers or long planters soak Beet seeds before planting Radishes get very hot if they don't get enough water or stand in the garden too long plant extra Carrots

    at end of season and put in partial shade to prolong harvest for another month

    * Broccoli, Cabbage & Collards need plenty of space so better in beds than containers Broccoli & Collards

    hold a long time in the garden* Celery & Strawberries chill & pre-sprout seeds (spread on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up and place

    in a plastic bag in the freezer for 2 months, then take bag out and put on top of the refrigerator check

    every couple of days until little white roots peek out of the seeds, then plant) plant in self-wateringcontainers (deep for Celery, shallow for Strawberries) shade during hottest months

    * Chard soak seeds before planting

    * Cucumbers plant in self-watering buckets on Patio along sunnier south side of door trellis to top useparthenocarpic varieties

    * Eggplant, Garden Berries, Peppers & Tomatoes plant in deep self-watering containers all are happier with

    some support Tomatoes need very strong teepees or cages these plants can hold a long time in thegarden shade during hottest months

    * Garlic, Leeks, Onions & Shallots plant in shallow self-watering containers, or enriched Potager quarters* Fennel & Parsley pre-sprout seeds before planting (spread on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up and

    place in a plastic bag on top of the refrigerator check every couple of days until little white roots peekout of the seeds, then plant) plant in flat with Basil move to final location in enriched Potager

    quarters or non-self-watering containers when 3" tall

    * Herbs plant all except mints in Herb Circle or in non-self-watering containers (they will rot with too muchmoisture) many will hold into hottest months with shade Garlic Chives, Lemongrass, Oregano &

    Rosemary are perennial with good drainage Sage, Scented Geraniums & Thyme can last through the

    summer in well-drained pots kept out of rain (west-facing porch just under overhang works well)* Melons & Zucchini plant in deep self-watering containers (2 plants in each) on Patio trellis to top use

    parthenocarpic varieties or hand-pollinate

    * Mixed Cooking Greens plant in enriched Potager quarters or TVA spots Kale holds a long time in thegarden, Mustard gets hot very quickly so harvest young

    * Mixed Salad Greens plant in shallow self-watering container - ready in 4 weeks, harvest for 4 weeks

    (cutting 3-4 times), then empty & replant in partial shade by N fence shade during hottest months

    (could move onto porch or behind a trellis once plants are growing well)* Tomatillos plant in enriched Potager quarters with 2 supports

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    Edibles to Plant in January

    Crop Area Planting Date Harvest Period

    Arugula, Lettuce, Mustard, Pak Choi SG1 1-Jan February 1-28

    Basil, Celery Leaf, Parsley HC 1-Jan February 1-28

    Beans Pole & Snap Bn1 1-Jan March 1-31

    Beets, Carrots Bt4 & Cr4 1-Jan March 1-31

    Broccoli Br2 1-Jan March 15 - April 15Fennel Bulb FB1 1-Jan March 1-31

    Cabbage Cb2 1-Jan March 15 - April 15

    Celery Cy4 1-Jan May 1-31

    Cilantro HC 1-Jan February 1-7

    Collards Cd2 1-Jan March 1-31

    Cucumbers C3 1-Jan March 1-31

    Dill HC 1-Jan February 1-March 31

    Eggplant EG1 1-Jan April 1-30

    Garlic, Onions GO5 1-Jan scallions February

    Melons M1 & 2 1-Jan April 1-30

    Mustard, Kale, Pak Choi CG1 1-Jan March 1-31

    New Zealand Spinach NZ1 1-Jan March 1-April 30

    Peppers P1 1-Jan April 1-30

    Pumpkin Seminole PS4 1-Jan May 1-31

    Radishes R3 1-Jan February 1-7

    Tomatillos TL1 1-Jan April 1-30

    Tomatoes Beefsteak & Paste T1 1-Jan April 1-30

    Zucchini Z2 1-Jan March 1-31

    Cilantro HC 8-Jan February 8-14

    Radishes R4 8-Jan February 8-14

    Arugula, Lettuce, Mustard, Pak Choi SG2 15-Jan February 15 - March 15

    Fennel Bulb FB2 15-Jan March 15 - April 15

    Cilantro HC 15-Jan February 15-21

    Cucumbers C4 15-Jan March 15 - April 15

    Radishes R5 15-Jan February 15-21

    Cilantro HC 22-Jan February 22-28

    Radishes R1 22-Jan February 22-28

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    Notes for January

    Cool-Season Crops:

    * Beans plant on teepees or in self-watering containers with supports soak seeds before planting

    * Beets, Carrots & Radishes plant in deep containers or long planters soak Beet seeds before planting Radishes get very hot if they don't get enough water or stand in the garden too long plant extra Carrots

    at end of season and put in partial shade to prolong harvest for another month

    * Broccoli, Cabbage & Collards need plenty of space so better in beds than containers Broccoli & Collards

    hold a long time in the garden* Celery & Strawberries chill & pre-sprout seeds (spread on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up and place

    in a plastic bag in the freezer for 2 months, then take bag out and put on top of the refrigerator check

    every couple of days until little white roots peek out of the seeds, then plant) plant in self-wateringcontainers (deep for Celery, shallow for Strawberries) shade during hottest months

    * Chard soak seeds before planting

    * Cucumbers plant in self-watering buckets on Patio along sunnier south side of door trellis to top useparthenocarpic varieties

    * Eggplant, Garden Berries, Peppers & Tomatoes plant in deep self-watering containers all are happier with

    some support Tomatoes need very strong teepees or cages these plants can hold a long time in thegarden shade during hottest months

    * Garlic, Leeks, Onions & Shallots plant in shallow self-watering containers, or enriched Potager quarters* Fennel & Parsley pre-sprout seeds before planting (spread on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up and

    place in a plastic bag on top of the refrigerator check every couple of days until little white roots peekout of the seeds, then plant) plant in flat with Basil move to final location in enriched Potager

    quarters or non-self-watering containers when 3" tall

    * Herbs plant all except mints in Herb Circle or in non-self-watering containers (they will rot with too muchmoisture) many will hold into hottest months with shade Garlic Chives, Lemongrass, Oregano &

    Rosemary are perennial with good drainage Sage, Scented Geraniums & Thyme can last through the

    summer in well-drained pots kept out of rain (west-facing porch just under overhang works well)* Melons & Zucchini plant in deep self-watering containers (2 plants in each) on Patio trellis to top use

    parthenocarpic varieties or hand-pollinate

    * Mixed Cooking Greens plant in enriched Potager quarters or TVA spots Kale holds a long time in thegarden, Mustard gets hot very quickly so harvest young

    * Mixed Salad Greens plant in shallow self-watering container - ready in 4 weeks, harvest for 4 weeks

    (cutting 3-4 times), then empty & replant in partial shade by N fence shade during hottest months

    (could move onto porch or behind a trellis once plants are growing well)* Tomatillos plant in enriched Potager quarters with 2 supports

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    Edibles to Plant in February

    Crop Area Planting Date Harvest Period

    Amaranth A1 1-Feb greens April 1-30, grain June 1-30

    Basil, Celery Leaf, Parsley HC 1-Feb March 1-31

    Beans Pole & Snap Bn2 1-Feb April 1-30

    Beets, Carrots Bt5 & Cr5 1-Feb April 1-30

    Broccoli Br3 1-Feb April 15 - May 15Fennel Bulb FB3 1-Feb April 1-30

    Cabbage Cb3 1-Feb April 15 - May 15

    Collards Cd3 1-Feb April 1-30

    Cucumbers C5 1-Feb April 1-30

    Garden Berry EG2 1-Feb May 1-31

    Garlic, Onions GO1 1-Feb scallions March

    Lagos Spinach LS1 1-Feb March 1-31

    Lettuce, Pak Choi SG3 1-Feb March 1-31

    Melons M3 & 4 1-Feb May 1-31

    Mustard, Kale, Pak Choi CG2 1-Feb April 1-30

    New Zealand Spinach NZ2 1-Feb April 1-May 31

    Okra Ok1 1-Feb April 1-May 15

    Peppers P2 1-Feb May 1-31

    Pumpkin Seminole PS1 1-Feb June 1-30

    Radishes R2 1-Feb March 1-7

    Sweet Potatoes SP1 1-Feb June 1-30

    Tomatillos TL2 1-Feb May 1-31

    Tomatoes Cherry T2 1-Feb May 1-31

    Water Leaves WL1 1-Feb April 1-30

    Zucchini Z3 1-Feb April 1-30

    Radishes R3 8-Feb March 8-14

    Fennel Bulb FB4 15-Feb April 15 - May 15

    Cucumbers C6 15-Feb April 15 - May 15

    Lettuce, Pak Choi SG4 15-Feb March 15 - April 15

    Radishes R4 15-Feb March 15-21

    Radishes R5 22-Feb March 22-31

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    Notes for February

    Cool-Season Crops:

    * Beans plant on teepees or in self-watering containers with supports soak seeds before planting

    * Beets, Carrots & Radishes plant in deep containers or long planters soak Beet seeds before planting Radishes get very hot if they don't get enough water or stand in the garden too long plant extra Carrots

    at end of season and put in partial shade to prolong harvest for another month

    * Broccoli, Cabbage & Collards need plenty of space so better in beds than containers Broccoli & Collards

    hold a long time in the garden* Celery & Strawberries chill & pre-sprout seeds (spread on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up and place

    in a plastic bag in the freezer for 2 months, then take bag out and put on top of the refrigerator check

    every couple of days until little white roots peek out of the seeds, then plant) plant in self-wateringcontainers (deep for Celery, shallow for Strawberries) shade during hottest months

    * Chard soak seeds before planting

    * Cucumbers plant in self-watering buckets on Patio along sunnier south side of door trellis to top useparthenocarpic varieties

    * Eggplant, Garden Berries, Peppers & Tomatoes plant in deep self-watering containers all are happier with

    some support Tomatoes need very strong teepees or cages these plants can hold a long time in thegarden shade during hottest months

    * Garlic, Leeks, Onions & Shallots plant in shallow self-watering containers, or enriched Potager quarters* Fennel & Parsley pre-sprout seeds before planting (spread on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up and

    place in a plastic bag on top of the refrigerator check every couple of days until little white roots peekout of the seeds, then plant) plant in flat with Basil move to final location in enriched Potager

    quarters or non-self-watering containers when 3" tall

    * Herbs plant all except mints in Herb Circle or in non-self-watering containers (they will rot with too muchmoisture) many will hold into hottest months with shade Garlic Chives, Lemongrass, Oregano &

    Rosemary are perennial with good drainage Sage, Scented Geraniums & Thyme can last through the

    summer in well-drained pots kept out of rain (west-facing porch just under overhang works well)* Melons & Zucchini plant in deep self-watering containers (2 plants in each) on Patio trellis to top use

    parthenocarpic varieties or hand-pollinate

    * Mixed Cooking Greens plant in enriched Potager quarters or TVA spots Kale holds a long time in thegarden, Mustard gets hot very quickly so harvest young

    * Mixed Salad Greens plant in shallow self-watering container - ready in 4 weeks, harvest for 4 weeks

    (cutting 3-4 times), then empty & replant in partial shade by N fence shade during hottest months

    (could move onto porch or behind a trellis once plants are growing well)* Tomatillos plant in enriched Potager quarters with 2 supports

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    Edibles to Plant in March

    Crop Area Planting Date Harvest Period

    Amaranth A2 1-Mar greens May 1-31, grain July 1-31

    Basil, Celery Leaf, Parsley HC 1-Mar April 1-30

    Beans Pole & Snap Bn3 1-Mar May 1-31

    Cucumbers C1 1-Mar May 1-31

    Garden Berry EG3 1-Mar June 1-30Garlic, Onions GO2 1-Mar scallions April

    Lagos Spinach LS2 1-Mar April 1-30

    Luffa Gourd LG1 March 1 May 1-31 food, July sponges

    Malabar Spinach MS1 1-Mar May 1-31

    Mustard, Kale, Pak Choi CG3 1-Mar May 1-31

    New Zealand Spinach NZ3 1-Mar May 1-June 30

    Pak Choi SG1 1-Mar April 1-30

    Peppers P3 1-Mar June 1-30

    Pumpkin Seminole PS2 1-Mar July 1-31

    Radishes R1 1-Mar April 1-7

    Squash Calabaza PS3 1-Mar July 1-31

    Sweet Potatoes SP2 1-Mar July 1-31

    Tomatillos TL3 1-Mar June 1-30

    Tomatoes Cherry T3 1-Mar June 1-30

    Water Leaves WL2 1-Mar May 1-31

    Zucchini Z1 1-Mar May 1-31

    Radishes R2 8-Mar April 8-14

    Cucumbers C2 15-Mar May 15 - June 15

    Okra Ok2 15-Mar May 15 June 30

    Pak Choi SG2 15-Mar April 15 - May 15

    Radishes R3 15-Mar April 15-21

    Radishes R4 22-Mar April 22-30

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    Notes for March

    Cool-Season Crops:

    * Beans plant on teepees or in self-watering containers with supports soak seeds before planting

    * Radishes plant in deep containers or long planters Radishes get very hot if they don't get enough water orstand in the garden too long plant in partial shade at end of season

    * Broccoli, Cabbage & Collards need plenty of space so better in beds than containers Broccoli & Collards

    hold a long time in the garden

    * Celery & Strawberries chill & pre-sprout seeds (spread on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up and placein a plastic bag in the freezer for 2 months, then take bag out and put on top of the refrigerator check

    every couple of days until little white roots peek out of the seeds, then plant) plant in self-watering

    containers (deep for Celery, shallow for Strawberries) shade during hottest months* Chard soak seeds before planting

    * Cucumbers plant in self-watering buckets on Patio along sunnier south side of door trellis to top use

    parthenocarpic varieties* Eggplant, Garden Berries, Peppers & Tomatoes plant in deep self-watering containers all are happier with

    some support Tomatoes need very strong teepees or cages these plants can hold a long time in the

    garden shade during hottest months* Garlic, Leeks, Onions & Shallots plant in shallow self-watering containers, or enriched Potager quarters

    * Fennel & Parsley pre-sprout seeds before planting (spread on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up andplace in a plastic bag on top of the refrigerator check every couple of days until little white roots peek

    out of the seeds, then plant) plant in flat with Basil move to final location in enriched Potagerquarters or non-self-watering containers when 3" tall

    * Herbs plant all except mints in Herb Circle or in non-self-watering containers (they will rot with too much

    moisture) many will hold into hottest months with shade Garlic Chives, Lemongrass, Oregano &Rosemary are perennial with good drainage Sage, Scented Geraniums & Thyme can last through the

    summer in well-drained pots kept out of rain (west-facing porch just under overhang works well)

    * Melons & Zucchini plant in deep self-watering containers (2 plants in each) on Patio trellis to top useparthenocarpic varieties or hand-pollinate

    * Mixed Cooking Greens plant in enriched Potager quarters or TVA spots Kale holds a long time in the

    garden, Mustard gets hot very quickly so harvest young* Mixed Salad Greens plant in shallow self-watering container - ready in 4 weeks, harvest for 4 weeks

    (cutting 3-4 times), then empty & replant in partial shade by N fence shade during hottest months

    (could move onto porch or behind a trellis once plants are growing well)

    * Tomatillos plant in enriched Potager quarters with 2 supports

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    Edibles to Plant in April

    Crop Area Planting Date Harvest Period

    Amaranth Am3 1-Apr greens June 1-30, grain August 1-31

    Basil, Parsley HC 1-Apr May 1-31

    Beans Yard-Long Bn4 1-Apr June 1-30

    Lagos Spinach LS3 1-Apr May 1-31

    Luffa Gourd LG2 1-Apr June 1-31 food, August spongesMalabar Spinach MS2 1-Apr June 1-30

    New Zealand Spinach NZ4 1-Apr June 1-July 31

    Pak Choi SG3 1-Apr May 1-31

    Squash Calabaza PS4 1-Apr August 1-31

    Sweet Potatoes SP3 1-Apr August 1-31

    Water Leaves WL3 1-Apr June 1-30

    Pak Choi SG4 15-Apr May 15 - June 15

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    Notes for April

    Warm-Season Crops (use up to 33 available spots in TVA or Potager, plus 5 shallow self-watering containers

    vacated by cool-season crops):

    * Amaranth grow leaf varieties anywhere, but grain types are best in the TVA because they are tall and will bethere a long time need 5 areas for both types (can be interplanted if desired) Callaloo is probably a

    type of Amaranth

    * Beans Yard Long plant on teepees in Potager boxes & on other supports soak seeds before planting

    * Calabaza Squash and Cuban or Seminole Pumpkin grow as groundcovers in TVA or in deep self-wateringcontainers vacated by cool-season vegetables that will be empty for 3-4 months need 6 areas

    * Lagos Spinach should be grown in containers try self-watering containers vacated by cool-season crops

    need 5 shallow self-watering containers* Luffa Gourd grow with support can eat small fruits up to 4 long let others grow to maturity and dry on

    vine need 5 areas grow in containers with netting on back fence where cucumbers were

    * Malabar Spinach needs support, so use the ones from Tomato containers need 4 areas* New Zealand Spinach need 5 areas soak seeds before planting 12 spacing, feed & harvest often use

    young leaves & stem tips raw or cooked (blanched is best), plant seeds 1/2" deep & mulch once plants

    are up tends to spread, so makes a good groundcover - plant 2-3 plants per person for fresh use, plus 6-8 for canning

    * Sweet Potatoes do very well in self-watering containers, but also anywhere else, so use as groundcover whenneed the containers somewhere else, but use the containers when they will otherwise be vacant for 4

    months or more need 5 areas* Water Leaves take cuttings and grow in any available spot vacated by cool-season crops, esp. shallow self-

    watering containers need 3 areas

    Cool-Season Crops:

    * Shade all possible from heat

    * Pak Choi for Salad plant in shallow self-watering container - ready in 4 weeks, harvest for 4 weeks (cutting3-4 times), then empty & replant in partial shade by N fence shade during hottest months (could move

    onto porch or behind a trellis once plants are growing well)

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    Edibles to Plant in May

    Crop Area Planting Date Harvest Period

    Amaranth Am4 1-May greens July 1 through grainSeptember 1-30

    Basil HCB 1-May June 1-30

    Beans Yard-Long Bn1 1-May July 1-31

    Lagos Spinach LS4 1-May June 1-30Luffa Gourd LG3 1-May small fruits July 1-31, sponges

    SeptemberMalabar Spinach MS3 1-May July 1-31

    New Zealand Spinach NZ5 1-May July 1-August 31

    Okra Ok1 1-May July 1-August 15

    Squash Calabaza PS5 1-May September 1-30

    Sweet Potatoes SP4 1-May September 1-30

    Water Leaves WL1 1-May July 1-31

    Okra Ok2 15-May July 15-August 31

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    Notes for May

    Warm-Season Crops (use up to 33 available spots in TVA or Potager, plus 5 shallow self-watering containers

    vacated by cool-season crops):

    * Amaranth grow leaf varieties anywhere, but grain types are best in the TVA because they are tall and will bethere a long time need 5 areas for both types (can be interplanted if desired) Callaloo is probably a

    type of Amaranth

    * Beans Yard Long plant on teepees in Potager boxes & on other supports soak seeds before planting

    * Calabaza Squash and Cuban or Seminole Pumpkin grow as groundcovers in TVA or in deep self-wateringcontainers vacated by cool-season vegetables that will be empty for 3-4 months need 6 areas

    * Lagos Spinach should be grown in containers try self-watering containers vacated by cool-season crops

    need 5 shallow self-watering containers* Luffa Gourd grow with support can eat small fruits up to 4 long let others grow to maturity and dry on

    vine need 5 areas grow in containers with netting on back fence where cucumbers were

    * Malabar Spinach needs support, so use the ones from Tomato containers need 4 areas* New Zealand Spinach need 5 areas soak seeds before planting 12 spacing, feed & harvest often use

    young leaves & stem tips raw or cooked (blanched is best), plant seeds 1/2" deep & mulch once plants

    are up tends to spread, so makes a good groundcover - plant 2-3 plants per person for fresh use, plus 6-8 for canning

    * Sweet Potatoes do very well in self-watering containers, but also anywhere else, so use as groundcover whenneed the containers somewhere else, but use the containers when they will otherwise be vacant for 4

    months or more need 5 areas* Water Leaves take cuttings and grow in any available spot vacated by cool-season crops, esp. shallow self-

    watering containers need 3 areas

    Cool-Season Crops:

    * Shade all possible from heat

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    Edibles to Plant in June

    Crop Area Planting Date Harvest Period

    Amaranth Am5 1-Jun greens August 1 through grainOctober 1-31

    Beans Yard-Long Bn2 1-Jun August 1-31

    Lagos Spinach LS5 1-Jun July 1-31

    Luffa Gourd LG4 June 1 small fruits August 1-31, spongesOctober 1-31

    Malabar Spinach MS4 1-Jun August 1-31

    Squash Calabaza PS6 1-Jun October 1-31

    Sweet Potatoes SP5 1-Jun October 1-31

    Water Leaves WL2 1-Jun August 1-31

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    Notes for June

    Warm-Season Crops (use up to 33 available spots in TVA or Potager, plus 5 shallow self-watering containers

    vacated by cool-season crops):

    * Amaranth grow leaf varieties anywhere, but grain types are best in the TVA because they are tall and will bethere a long time need 5 areas for both types (can be interplanted if desired) Callaloo is probably a

    type of Amaranth

    * Beans Yard Long plant on teepees in Potager boxes & on other supports soak seeds before planting

    * Calabaza Squash and Cuban or Seminole Pumpkin grow as groundcovers in TVA or in deep self-wateringcontainers vacated by cool-season vegetables that will be empty for 3-4 months need 6 areas

    * Lagos Spinach should be grown in containers try self-watering containers vacated by cool-season crops

    need 5 shallow self-watering containers* Luffa Gourd grow with support can eat small fruits up to 4 long let others grow to maturity and dry on

    vine need 5 areas grow in containers with netting on back fence where cucumbers were

    * Malabar Spinach needs support, so use the ones from Tomato containers need 4 areas* New Zealand Spinach need 5 areas soak seeds before planting 12 spacing, feed & harvest often use

    young leaves & stem tips raw or cooked (blanched is best), plant seeds 1/2" deep & mulch once plants

    are up tends to spread, so makes a good groundcover - plant 2-3 plants per person for fresh use, plus 6-8 for canning

    * Sweet Potatoes do very well in self-watering containers, but also anywhere else, so use as groundcover whenneed the containers somewhere else, but use the containers when they will otherwise be vacant for 4

    months or more need 5 areas* Water Leaves take cuttings and grow in any available spot vacated by cool-season crops, esp. shallow self-

    watering containers need 3 areas

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    Edibles to Plant in July

    Crop Area Planting Date Harvest Period

    Amaranth Am1 1-Jul greens September 1 through grainNovember 1-30

    Beans Yard-Long Bn3 1-Jul September 1-30

    Lagos Spinach LS1 1-Jul August 1-31

    Luffa Gourd LG5 July 1 small fruits September 1-30,sponges November

    Malabar Spinach MS1 1-Jul September 1-30

    Pumpkin Seminole PS1 1-Jul November 1-30

    Squash Calabaza PS1 1-Jul November 1-30

    Sweet Potatoes SP1 1-Jul 11/01/30

    Water Leaves WL3 1-Jul September 1-30

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    Notes for July

    Warm-Season Crops (use up to 33 available spots in TVA or Potager, plus 5 shallow self-watering containers

    vacated by cool-season crops):

    * Amaranth grow leaf varieties anywhere, but grain types are best in the TVA because they are tall and will bethere a long time need 5 areas for both types (can be interplanted if desired) Callaloo is probably a

    type of Amaranth

    * Beans Yard Long plant on teepees in Potager boxes & on other supports soak seeds before planting

    * Calabaza Squash and Cuban or Seminole Pumpkin grow as groundcovers in TVA or in deep self-wateringcontainers vacated by cool-season vegetables that will be empty for 3-4 months need 6 areas

    * Lagos Spinach should be grown in containers try self-watering containers vacated by cool-season crops

    need 5 shallow self-watering containers* Luffa Gourd grow with support can eat small fruits up to 4 long let others grow to maturity and dry on

    vine need 5 areas grow in containers with netting on back fence where cucumbers were

    * Malabar Spinach needs support, so use the ones from Tomato containers need 4 areas* New Zealand Spinach need 5 areas soak seeds before planting 12 spacing, feed & harvest often use

    young leaves & stem tips raw or cooked (blanched is best), plant seeds 1/2" deep & mulch once plants

    are up tends to spread, so makes a good groundcover - plant 2-3 plants per person for fresh use, plus 6-8 for canning

    * Sweet Potatoes do very well in self-watering containers, but also anywhere else, so use as groundcover whenneed the containers somewhere else, but use the containers when they will otherwise be vacant for 4

    months or more need 5 areas* Water Leaves take cuttings and grow in any available spot vacated by cool-season crops, esp. shallow self-

    watering containers need 3 areas