Soup & Sauce Cookery “The sauce to meat is ceremony; Meeting were bare without it.”- Shakespeare CHRM 1120/O'DonnellFall 20111

Soup & Sauce Cookery“The sauce to

meat is ceremony;

Meeting were bare without

it.”-Shakespeare

CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 20111

Fall 2011CHRM 1120/O'Donnell2

“Oh là là c'est beaucoup d'estragon!”

“Ce n'est pas une sauce pour une petite fille.”

Cookware: Material: Aluminum Cheap and Good Heat Conductor Proteins Tend to Stick REACTIVE

Using a metal spoon or whisk release aluminum into the broth or sauce

Will discolor white sauces Anodized Aluminum (Calphalon)

Expensive Non-Reactive Dark (Can’t see carmelization)


Cookware: Material: Copper EXPENSIVE, and Great Heat Conductor Copper must be lined

All copper pots must not be used for cooking TOXIC Cooking sugar and meringue are the exceptions

Tinned, wears off in time Clad with Stainless SteelUnlined

Copper

Clad Stainless-Steel & Copper


Cast Iron Cheap and Good Conductor Reactive (Some-what less when “seasoned”) Turns Light Sauces Dark or Grey

Enameled Cast Iron Expensive Non-Reactive Chips Easily

Steel Cheap Good Conductor Reactive (Some-what less when “seasoned”)

Cookware: Material: Iron/Steel


Used for Eggs and Delicate Proteins like Fish

Scratches Easily…Use Plastic, Silicone or Wood Utensils

Generally can not be put into a hot oven…toxic fumes!

Not practical for integral sauces as little fond will form in the pan

Cookware: Material: Non-Stick


A Sauce Pan with Sloping-Sides

Cookware: Sauteuse, Évasée or Saucier

Curved sides eliminate hard

to reach corners in the

pan Sloping sides increase

surface area for reduction

while concentrating flavors towards

the bottomFall 2011CHRM 1120/O'Donnell7

Cookware: Casserole* or Saucepot*Don’t confuse with a dish used to make an American casserole


Choosing the Right Pan The Correct Size

Will items fit or be crowded? Too large of pan?

For severe reductions, changing pans may be necessary.

The Correct Shape Tall and narrow like a stockpot? Short and wide like a saucier? Curved or square bottom?

Heaviness and Type of Material Risk of scorching/burning? Reactive?


Choose the Correct Pan for the Job!

Choose the right-sized pan. For 1 quart of sauce/soup what sized pan?

Choose the correct shape pan. Do you want evaporation/reduction or not?

Choose the best pan possible. Heavy? Cast Iron? Copper? Non-Reactive?


Cookware: Chinois & China Cap

Fine Chinois

Course Chinois or China Cap


Cookware: Immersion Blender


Cookware: Blender Vita-Prep/ Vita-Mix The Standard of Industry

Don’t fill more than ½ way with hot liquids!


Cookware: Bain Marie


Stock (Fonds, fr.)“A flavoured liquid base for making a sauce, stew or braised dish.”-Larousse


Stocks Used to facilitate making integral

sauces Integral sauces are sauces prepared

directly from the juices that are released by meats and fish during cooking.

Used as a base for soups & stews Used as cooking medium for braises,

poaching & simmering Utilizes less-expensive cuts of

meat, meat trimmings, and bones


Stocks Losing Importance in Modern American Kitchens Less fabrication of meat primals…less available bones

Extra Labor Decreasing use of non-integral sauces…more sauces are lighter pan sauces


Stock, Bouillon (Fr.), Brodo (It.) & Broth

The terms Stock, Bouillon and Broth are similar and often used interchangeably.

Broth, Bouillon or Brodo is a flavorful stock made principally of meat or seafood and may be seasoned. It is often served as is.

Stock is principally made of bones and is typically unseasoned. It serves as a base or fond of sauce or a stew


A Quality Stock Great Depth of Flavor and Clarity Body

Presence of Gelatin (especially in meat & poultry stocks)

Vegetable, Fish, Seafood and some Light Stocks would have little or no gelatin.

Depth of Flavor is Determined by: Quality of Ingredients Ratio of Solids to Liquid Length of Cooking Time“Deep” flavor isn’t always desired,

occasionally a light stock is preferred…for cooking rice or vegetables for example.


Quality of Ingredients• Bones and carcasses should be fresh and

meaty.– Frozen bones that were fresh when frozen are

OK• Choose bones high in gelatin when needed.• For white stocks, bones should be blanched.• Vegetables and aromatics should be fresh

and of high quality.• Bones and vegetables should be cut to an

appropriate size for the cooking time.• COLD water or a COLD Remouillage

(Remoistened previously cooked stock bones)


Quality of Ingredients A stockpot is not a garbage disposal Trimmings need to be clean, wholesome and appropriate

Use of trimmings can help control costs


Blanching Bones• Not all chefs agree…• Removes impurities and maybe flavor

– Produces a cleaner, clearer stock– For White Stocks (no Roasting)

1. Rinse the bones, cover them with water in a high stockpot

2. Bring to a boil over high heat3. Skim and Strain4. Proceed with stock recipe5. Fish bones are NOT blanched due to

short cooking time


Ratio of Solids to Liquids

• COLD liquid should cover the solids by no more than 2 inches.– 50%-75% Nourishing Element (Bones and Meat

Trimmings)– 50%-75% Mirepoix

– ½# onion, ½# leek (or 1# onion), ½# carrot, ½# celery– Bouquet Garni– 100% LiquidEx. 2# bones+2# mirepoix+3# cold water (3 pints,

or 6 cups)• Liquid is simmered at a LOW and gentle

simmer* and liquid is replaced as it evaporates.

* One bubble per second.CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201123

Mirepoix Cut mirepoix according to cooking time

¾”-1” pieces for chicken stock, 2”-3” lpieces for beef, smaller for fish and shellfish

Add mirepoix after stock has simmered for 30 minutes and has been skimmed

*Too much mirepoix or overcooking it may result in too much sugars released from the vegetables.


Mirepoix 50% Onion, Peeled

Leek may substitute for ½ of the onion

25% Carrot, Washed & Peeled

25% Celery, (optional) Celery may be too

assertive from some applications


Types of Mirepoix “White Mirepoix”

Replaces carrots with parsnips and may include leeks and mushrooms

“Matignon” aka., “Edible

mirepoix”, usually includes ham, bacon or pork product, mushrooms and herbs

Cut more uniformly and used for garnish


Types of Mirepoix Cajun Mirepoix or “Holy

Trinity” Onion, Celery & Green Bell

Pepper Italian Mirepoix or

“Soffritto” Sautéed in Olive Oil and may

add Garlic, Fennel and Leeks Spanish Mirepoix or

“Sofrito” May include Tomatoes, Chiles

Asian Mirepoix Ginger, Garlic & Scallions


Leeks Leeks contain albumin that helps

clarify stocks. A “White Mirepoix”, substitutes leeks

for onion. Use only the white and light green

parts.


Bouquet Garni or Sachet A mixture of herbs used

to flavor stocks and other preparations

Consists of thyme sprigs, parsley stems, bay leaf, celery leaves, and a few peppercorns

Tied together in leek greens or in cheesecloth (Sachet d'épices)

Add during the last 30 minutes of cooking


Cooking Time• Large beef or veal bones require a

much longer simmer…6-24 hours• Chicken bones…3-4 hours• Fish Bones…30 minutes• Vegetable…30 minutes• Brown Stocks longer than White

Stocks• Overcooked = bitter and saline;

Undercooked = weak and watery


Clarity of Stock• Blanching Bones• Begin with COLD water or stock

– (Stock will be cloudy at first. The stock will clear as it cooks.)

• A Slow and Gentle Simmer, 185˚F• Do not stir• Skimming (dépouillage) Frequently• NEVER BOIL, Stock will be greasy and

cloudy• Be careful if using a cover, Stock

may boil


Seasoning Stock• Stock is usually NOT seasoned (with

salt and pepper) to allow for use in different applications.

• A broth usually IS seasoned and used for a specific application.

• Vegetable stock may be seasoned because it is cooked for a very short period of time and salt heightens the flavor of the vegetables.


Stock: 3 Types• White Stock

– Prepared with clean and/or blanched meat and bones moistened with cold water

– May provide gelatin and a more subtle background flavor and aroma than brown stock

• Brown Stock– Prepared with meat and/or bones that have been browned on the stove top or roasted

– Have a richer and more complex flavor than white stock**This is not always preferred!


Gelatin• Clear and Flavorless• Provide stock a smooth and rich texture or “mouth-feel”

• Extracted from bones and cartilage– Veal Bones and Feet are HIGH in gelatin.– Chicken Wings and Feet are also HIGH in gelatin.

– Fish Bones have very little or no gelatin.

– Pork Bones and Rind are HIGH in gelatin but have a very assertive pork flavor and lots of fat.


Making Stock Goal: Maximize Flavor and Minimize

Cost Meats supply savory flavor and

increase cost Defray the cost by utilizing the

cooked meat in other preparations Bones supply gelatin and minimal

flavor


Making Stock Onion Brulée

A charred onion used to darken and flavor brown stock or broth.

Vietnamese Pho Soup uses charred onion and ginger to flavor and color the broth


Fumet• A Strongly Flavored and Aromatic

Fish Stock finished with an acid such as white wine or lemon juice

• Oily Fish (Tuna, Salmon, Mackerel, etc.) would not be used because of their pronounced flavor

• Fish bones would NOT be blanched• Mirepoix is cut small• 30-45 minutes cooking time


Court Bouillon (Short-Broth)• Classically, a quick acidulated

vegetable stock used for poaching fish, veal, chicken or offal

• Refined, may be served clear• Nage, refined and served with cut

vegetables• Also, a quick stock/broth made with

smaller bones and mirepoix• Used as a stock or broth to save time• Used to augment a weak broth• Used to infuse flavors, (ex. lamb bones in

chicken stock to make a lamb short stock)


Court Bouillon (Short-Broth) con’t.• Prepared:

– À la nage (“swimming”) as in a fish served in broth

– Au vin blanc, with white wine– Au vin rouge with red wine– Au vinaigre, with white wine vinegar– Au blanc, with milk– Au bleu, FRESHLY killed, cleaned and

lightly poached trout


Vegetable Stock May use some salt to bring out the

flavor of the vegetables. Avoid asparagus, brassicas

(broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, etc.) and potatoes

Roasting, sweating and caramelizing improves aroma and flavor

30 minutes cooking time


Other Specialty Stocks Lamb Stock for Scotch Broth Pork or Ham Stock Shrimp Shells, Lobster Bodies for

Bisque Dashi, Kombu (Seaweed) & Bonito

(Fish) Flakes Fundamental to Japanese Cuisine Base to Miso Soup

Tomato Stock for Tomato Sauces


Reductions & Glazes Reduction

Concentrating stocks by boiling or simmering them to evaporate part of the water producing more flavor and body.

Glazes (Glace, fr.)) A stock reduced by 50-90% , until it has a syrup-like consistency and coats the back of a spoon.

Glazes become solid and rubbery when chilled. Glazes are not usually reconstituted as stocks because their flavor has been intensified by the prolonged cooking.

“Glace de viande” or Meat glaze “Glace de volaille” or Chicken glaze “Glace de poisson” or Fish glaze


Making a Glace

Reduce the stock over moderate heat…Skim Frequently


Making a Glace

Move to smaller pans as sauce reduces and strain


Making a Glace

Check consistency


Straining Stock Carefully decant the stock form solids and strain through a fine chinois lined with two layers of moistened cheesecloth.


Cooling and Storing Cool Stocks QUICKLY…Use an Ice Bath, Ice Paddles and Smaller Containers (Beef broth is used for Petri dishes!)

From 135˚F to 70˚F within 2 Hours and then 70˚F to below 41˚F within 4 hours

Degrease stock before using.

Stocks may kept frozen for months.


Commercial Bases HIGH in sodium

Sodium essential as a preservative Check first ingredient

You Pay for Quality Used by MOST Food Services Saves on Labor Provides Consistency and Efficiency Boost Weak Stocks


9 Stock Making Rules1. Use quality fresh ingredients.2. Start in cold water.3. Simmer gently…DO NOT BOIL.4. Skim frequently…When in doubt, skim

again.5. Do not stir.6. Strain carefully and gently.7. Cool quickly.8. Store properly.9. Degrease before using.


Making a White Stock1. Rinse the Bones (Use only fresh or

frozen bones and rinse under COLD water.)


Making a White Stock2. Simmer the Bones (Cover the bones

with COLD water and slowly bring to a bare simmer.)

Cover bones by 2 inches

of cold water.




It is normal for the

stock to be cloudy

initally.




A “bare simmer”

equals 180˚F or 1 bubble per second


Making a White Stock3. Skim Often.


Making a White Stock4. Add cold water as need. (Keep bones

covered.)


Making a White Stock5. Add the Mirepoix (After the stock has

simmered for 1-2 hours.) Simmer for 1 more hour or so.


Making a White Stock6. Add the Bouquet Garni (After mirepoix

and bones have simmered.) Simmer for 30 more minutes.

or use a Sachet

d’Epices


Making a White Stock7. Strain (Carefully remove bones and

mirepoix and strain through cheesecloth and chinois.)


Making a White Stock8. Cool (Use an ice bath, smaller pots,

ice paddles, and/or a blast chiller.)

Cool to 70˚F within 2 hours and

below 41 ˚F within 4 hours.


Making a Brown or Dark StockSame Procedure as making a white stock

except:


Making a Brown or Dark StockThe Bones are Roasted and Mirepoix are

Caramelized.


Making a Brown or Dark StockThe Bones are Roasted and Mirepoix is

Caramelized.

Mirepoix should be cut larger

to accommodate

longer cooking times. CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201162

Making a Brown or Dark Stock

Tomato paste is sautéed with the roasted mirepoix



Not painted on, as some recipes say…CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201164


…It has a tendency to burn and taste bitter.CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201165


Roasted Bones Are Added and covered with COLD WaterCHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201166


Simmer Beef/Veal 8-12 hours, Chicken 4-6 hoursCHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201167


Skim FrequentlyCHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201168


Add Bouquet Garni for the last 30 minutes of cooking



Carefully remove the solidsCHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201170


Strain, Chill and DefatCHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201171


Strain, Chill and DefatCHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201172

Each Team of 4 Students: Brown Veal Stock

This will be completed by staff after class White Chicken Stock

This will be completed in class Pressure –Cooked White Chicken Stock

Intro to a pressure cooker Vegetable Stock Chicken Noodle Soup

You will make a chicken broth for this soup

Today’s Lab:


Documents

Soup & Sauce Cookery “The sauce to meat is ceremony; Meeting were bare without it.”- Shakespeare CHRM 1120/O'DonnellFall 20111