In this article we are using a brand new 200cc enginecasing, mainly when you buy these from suppliers theycome just about totally bare, if you need to strip yourengine, we will get round to an article on this, but fornow you will have to read everything backwards tostrip it!!

Some of the casting marks can still be found on the newengine cases, and even if you are using your one thatyou have just stripped, the first job will be to clean andinspect everything. Jizer, Gunk or some people evenhave their casings bead or vapour blasted, but what everyou choose, the casings are pretty soft alloy, don't getthem sand blasted or similar as you will ruin them.Acid dipping has also been know to be done, but thiscan affect the casting, be careful.

Again finally checking all stub holes, a tap is beingused here just to clean the thread

Points of wear on the casings are stud holes, where themag housing goes in, bearing and crank housings, andcheck where the end plate bolts go in on the outside.The seat of the endplate and in particular thestuds/holes need careful inspection. With all stud holesrepaired, to do this time inserts are best, Wurth do makesome very good ones, but they are expensive!

OK ready to start getting dirty? First of all, I always tryto work as cleanly as possible, sure you will get dirtyhands, but wash them often and carry on. Enginemounts are to be fitted first, for this we need heat, and acouple of suitable hammers. You can of course by atool to fits these. Heat the casings up where the mountsgo in.

The method I use when not using the special tool is tosupport the back of the casing with a large poundhammer, copper grease the mountings to help themslide in, then from the front knock the mountings in.Take note on the large mounts there are three holes inthem, these holes should be pointing forwards.

Now we have the mounts in, we are fitting the engine toa special tool, the engine case holder just to make ourlife easier when moving the casing around, again this isnot needed but helps!

Here we are starting with the drive side bearing set up,shown are the parts needed to fit the bearing. Goodquality grease, bearing, gasket, oil seal and plate, plusfour retaining bolts.

There are three methods to fit the drive side bearing,heat the casing by means of blow torch or similar,freeze the bearing as it makes it shrink, or buy a bearingpress tool. There are manufacturers of tools specificallyfor Lambretta, if your going to make a habit of doingthese jobs they are well worth the expense. Using oneof these methods, press the bearing into the enginecasing, it does not matter which way round it goes, butit is important that it is pressed all the way home. Youcan check this by looking at it through the chain side ofthe casing, it should fit right up tight against itshousing.

Once the bearing is pressed home, smear the balls ofthe bearings with high melting point grease,

The round gasket is then fitted, some gaskets will notfit this housing perfectly, do not worry, just simply andcarefully push the gasket edges into the housing with aflat screwdriver, just be careful when doing this.

Next we need to fit the oil seal to the plate, the picturehere shows the correct way round it goes. The springaround the oil seal should face the the crank when it isfinally assembled. Four new screws are used, it'salways best to use new ones here as the old ones almostcertainly will be damaged when removing them. Newones from most dealers will now be supplied as hightensile Allen key headed bolts, it is much easier tosecure and do this type of screw. Lock-tite is alwayssensible on these bolts,

The plate is diagonally torque'd, this makes sure theplate sits down evenly, keep going around them untilyou are sure all four bolts are secured as tight as theycan be, there is no torque setting for these bolts, but youshould tighten them fully until they will turn no further.

With this picture you can see that the oil plate is fittedcorrectly, it is vital that the plate is secured fully homeand is flush as in the picture. If the plate sits proud andis not secured correctly, your crank will rub against itand not turn correctly, damage will occur.

Place the mag or stator housing so that the inner partfaces upwards. Now as with the drive side bearing youneed to either heat the housing, keep the heat at the topof the housing. When heated, fit new seal carefully asthe housing is hot! with spring facing towards you (itwill end up facing into the crank when you havefinished) Fit the L shaped cup washer next.

Now we need to fit the bearing, it comes in two halves,put the inner to one side as this must be fitted to thecrankshaft. Either with your bearing tool or by using asocket or similar, make sure that what you use puts thepressure on the outer track, knock the bearing inposition. Make sure it goes in square, tap it fully home.Li SX and TV models, if you are using the originalsize of bearing (NU205) fit the spacer washer. GPmodels and machines using a GP crank with thelarger bearing (NU2205) do not have or use thisspacer.

With the bearing in position, fit the last larger oil seal,again with the spring side facing you, towards the crankwhen assembled. A large circlips holds everything inplace. Lightly packe the inner bearing with your greaseas no oil gets here to lubricate it and it relies on thisgrease. With every thing finished your mag housingshould look like this!

Preparing the new crank, if you are not re-fitting yourold crank you will need to fit the mag side bearinginner track. The easiest way to do this is again heat theinner track. It will be easier the hotter you get the innertrack, glowing red is OK, when it is suitable heated useyour pliers to slip the track over the crank shaft. Whenyou have this done, tap home around the whole innertrack to make sure it is seated properly. Again, anspecial tool can be purchased to fit and remove theinner track, well worth it if you to do this kind of joboften.

Fitting the crank, smear a little grease on the inner edgeof the drive side oil seal, this helps the crank through,then by passing the shorter shaft through first, it iseasier to get the crank at BDC, so the crank is at it'sshortest. First smear a little grease on the drive sideinner seal that we fitted earlier, a very slight coating isall that is needed. This helps the crank pass through it,less chance to nip the edge of the seal.

The crank should be pushed as far as possible by hand,rotating the crank slightly as you go, again to make sureyou do not snag the edges of the oil seal.

Here we are using a special tool to pull the crankthrough, from the chain side position the space centralon the bearing.

The front sprocket bolt is used to pull the crank throughinto position. If you do not have this special tool, fit theflywheel nut on the end of the crank, this stops youfrom damaging the thread on the crank, and using arubber or nylon hammer, tap home the crank, againtwisting as you go.

Here we can see again, the use of the tool to pull thecrank through, we are also using a con rod holding toolto position the crank

Note how the crank is fully home now, flush to thedrive side plate, but still turning freely.

Before you fit the mag housing that we have built, thefirst step is the gasket for the mag flange, this will onlyfit one way, make sure all the holes line up with thegasket

Fit the mag housing assembly, this should be a prettygood fit, wiggle it into position, if its a little tight, arubber hammer hit evenly around the edges will tap ithome. If you are using your original one, it will needcleaning to make it fit easier. Once the mag housing isjust about home, three nuts on the studs secure this.Again in a diagonal pattern tighten this fully home.Finally check the crank still turns freely.

Now you have the mag fitted, we can turn ourattentions to the front sprocket assembly

The dished washer goes on first, dished side down.

The drive sleeve has splines on it, in no special wayother than to match these splines with the splines on thecrank shaft, fit the sleeve.

The front sprocket goes next, the half moon part of itfaces out towards you.

Next the bottom spring collar goes on, but before youfit the spring, place the top collar on.

In this picture you will see, where the oil way hole is onthe drive sleeve, we have used a felt pen to make amark directly opposite this. This will help us line everything up when we come to secure it all down. Take thistop sleeve back off now you have made this mark

Fit the spring on next, and put back on the top collar,lining up the pen mark you made with the whole as bestyou can. Tighten the whole assembly down now, a noteshould be made that we still have our conrod holdingtool in position to secure everything. If you do not dothis it will be impossible to fully tighten the frontsprocket bolt. Once you are happy that every thing isaligned with your marks, tighten home fully the frontsprocket bolt. When complete it is important youdouble check every thing is correct by hitting the frontsprocket assembly with a hammer, if it sounds solidevery thing is correct, if it sounds hollow, take it offand start again!

Fitting of the new barrel studs is easily done by thedouble nut method. By this we mean screw one of thehead nuts on to the stud, then screw another directlyafter it, lock them together with two spanners. Nowusing one spanner, if you have locked the nuts togethertightly simply screw the bolts down with the spanner.Again with two spanners un lock these nuts and moveon to the next stud

Carry on fitting and four studs, ideally we are lookingto get them all the same height as far as they will go in.Fit your cylinder base gasket now, it will only line upand fit properly one way round.Top Tip Vespa PXcylinder studs are ideal to use as they are slightly longerand will make sure you get enough thread of the studinto the engine casing.

Although we have fitted the cylinder and piston here,we are showing you this picture now for you to note thecorrect way round the piston goes, the arrows of thepiston face to the exhaust port. The easiest way to fitthe top end is to fit the piston and rings into the cylinderfirst. Fits both or all three rings (depending on yourmake of piston) on to your piston, making note as therings have a cut out which fit into the peg on the pistonone way only.

Compress the rings onto the piston while sliding intothe barrel from the bottom, i.e. the top of the pistongoes into the bottom of the barrel. Slide the piston upone ring at a time, each time making sure the ring hasseated properly into the bore of the cylinder.

Slide the barrel on to the studs as in the picture above.Fit the small end bearing into the crank, it is a goodidea to dip this in a little light oil or two stroke oil to aidin the first start up. Line the conrod and piston up soyou can fit the gudgeon pin and tap through lightly witha rubber hammer. Fit both piston circlips, make surethey are fitted correctly by turning them in theirgrooves. If they do not turn easily or pop out, they werenot seated correctly, try again.

slide the barrel fully down the studs, if you are using adial gauge to set top dead centre (TDC) now is the timeto skip to the stator and flywheel section so you canmark TDC.

The cylinder head and parts needed to fit, notice theone nut longer then any other, this is used to secure thecylinder head cowl. If you are using your old cylinderhead, it will need to be flatted. To do this, simply use apiece of glass and sticky back sand paper, grinding discis ideal. rotate the head within your hands using atwisting movement 1/4 of a turn for ten times. Carryone after each ten twists by turning the head 90 degreesand doing again, you should end up doing this fourtimes.

First fit your head gasket, then place your head on topof this. The head should only fit on the studs one way,the spark plug hole should be facing the top left handside.

Again in this picture take note of the long nut thatexcepts the cylinder cowl bolt, because we have theengine on a stand, it is upside down, so yours againwith the engine the correct way up should be on thebottom left hand stud as you look directly at it.

Finally in a diagonal pattern, it is important you torquethese nuts down, 20lbs is ideal, the Lambretta HomeWorkshops manual does state 15, but trust us 20 isbetter.

Carrying on at the top end, we are now going to fit ourelectric's. Here we are fitting an electronic kit, butroughly speaking the points and condenser stator arefitted in the same way.

The electronic stator, the main difference is the "blackbox" pick up, it is at the top of the stator with a whiteline on it. If you are using the points/condenser typestator, you will of course need to almost certainly fitnew points and condenser, check the workshop sectionfor this.

Thread the wiring from the stator through the whole atthe top, taking note of the gap on the stator to allow thewires to sit into when fitted. Make sure you do not snagthe wires when fitted, there is a plate to hold down thewiring that should be fitted to the top nut/bolt whensecuring the stator

I always recommend fitting the stator in a centralposition on the oval holes of the stator plate, unless ofcourse you have marked the stator and housing beforeremoval, this allows you to turn the stator either way toadjust the timing if needed. Just nip the nuts/bolts atthis stage as you will almost certainly will need tomove the stator around.

To secure the wiring, a gasket, two plates and a rubbergrommet are used. The plates have a tapered side tothem, after you have fitted the gasket to the enginecasing, the first plate (they are the same) goes with thehighest side in towards the engine, then the grommet,then the last plate with the raised part facing out.Secure the plates with two bolts, original ones were ascrewdriver fit ment ones, for each of removal/fitting inthe future you can use either Allen headed or spannerheaded bolts.

Finally before you fit the flywheel, just make sure noneof the wiring is to high and will catch on the flywheel.

Next put the flywheel on, and tighten the flywheel nut,note it has left hand thread, it does not need to beparticularly tight at this stage, just nip it up.

We are gowing to need to find TDC (Top Dead Centre)this is the point when the piston is in its highest point inits travel, up to the head. We are looking for when thepiston will not go any further up, but not starting itstravel downwards either. If you have a play, you willfind a small point where the piston no longer moves.We are using a TDC tool, the outer part of it is usedlike a spark plug, simply screw it into the plug hole. Itthen has an inner rod, that you can rest on the top of thepiston to give you better sight of its travel.

When you have found TDC, there is an arrow on theflywheel, we need to make a mark on the outer ring ofthe mag housing directly opposite this arrow, Using abladed screwdriver and hammer, a gentle tap will beenough to cut a groove in the alloy. Take note againbecause of the holding tool our engine is upside down

Now using our dial gauge, we need to measure thefiring point. Take the flywheel back off, line the arrowon the dial gauge, it is in position zero degrees, with themark you made on the mag housing with your screwdriver. To do this there is a hole in the centre of thegauge, place this over the shaft of the crank, and lightlyfit the nut back on with your hand, this insure moreaccuracy.

Timing is before TDC on all models, so to mark thefiring point you will need to go back towards the enginemount from the zero position. Timing for models is 23degrees Li/TV/SX and 21 degrees for GP. The onlyother setting known at this time is the new Imola kits,which need to be set at 27 degrees. Again it is a goodidea to make a second mark on the mag housing nowwith your hammer & screwdriver to show the firingpoint. This will save you if you need to set the timingup again having to go through this all the time.

Now this is where the points and electronic set upsdiffer. First I'll cover electronic, on the black box on thestator picture we showed earlier, we mentioned thewhite line. This white line needs to line up with twovery small marks situated either side of a flywheelwindow, they are directly opposite each other in thesame window.

What we need to do its make sure when the arrow ofthe flywheel is lined up with the mark you made foryour firing point on the mag, that the two lines on theflywheel window are in a perfect line with the whiteline of the pick up box.

If you cannot get them to all align, this is when youneed to move the stator around on its oval holes toachieve this position. When you have done so, timing isset.

To set a points system, follow the electronicinstructions except. For this I use a battery and bulb &holder, attached one side of the bulb to an earth, theother to the battery, of which the other side of thebattery wire goes to the green coming from the stator.Instead of lining the lines up, what we are looking forhere is when you turn the flywheel to the firing mark,the bulb will become brighter when it reaches this markexactly.

Too soon or to late, you will need to either adjust the points on the screw, this is done byundoing the screw, turning the bottom plate of the points slightly, and nip back up and tryagain. If you cannot get the light to brighten by adjusting the points base, again moving thestator on the oval holes and try again adjusting the points further.

When you have finally set the timing, make sure thestator plate retaining bolts or nuts are tightened, againusing a torque wrench fit the flywheel and torque to50lbs.

Job done, your top end is now complete, only thing leftto do is fit the spark plug and cowlings. I always leavethe cowlings until it is in the frame and every thing hasbeen checked and the scooter is running. Just saves youtime in case you got any thing wrong!

Turning our attentions to the rear end and gearbox ofthe scooter now, with the rear hub bearing and oil seal

Fit the oil seal into the bearing first, it should have theoil seal fitted into it with the springs facing into thecrankcase.

You may need to heat the crank casing up to fit the rearhub bearing, some people prefer to freeze the bearingthis makes it shrink. You can also of course use abearing fitting tool for this job. Fit the bearing/seal intoits recess in the crank case, it will only fit one wayround, and it goes in from the brake shoe end. Packwith high melting point grease.

Here we have the parts to secure the bearing one thinshim plate, on thick but small retaining plate and fourwashers & nyloc nuts.

First slide the shim plate over the four studs, next thesmaller but thicker plate, all held down with washersand nyloc nuts. Again do this up in a diagonal pattern,nice and tight. We have also while we are here, fittedthe two rear brake shoe pivots, this end is nowcomplete bar the brake set up.

Here we see all the parts needed to fit the main shaft.The gear selector, selector shaft and seals. Fit the gearselector first on GP models this is one complete unitwhich includes the outer arm. On earlier models theselector arm is separate to the shaft, you just need to fitthe shaft at this stage.

The sliding dog should be fitted to the lay-shaft first, todo this insert the selector spring in the centre of thelayshaft, and hold a ball bearing at each end of thisspring. If you look at the sliding dog at the end with thering on, it has two recess to make fitting this assemblytogether easier. The feet of the dog should be flush withthe end of the shaft (this is first gear). -fit the shaftthrough the bearing and make sure the lugs on the gearselector wishbone locate into the sliding dog

Tap the lay-shaft home with a hide mallet. Place therear hub cone washer onto the lay-shaft then a suitabledistance piece (avoids messing with the rear hub). Placethe rear hub washer and nut then tighten, we willtighten it properly later on. If you cannot find a suitablespacer, simply fit the rear hub and toque. In both casesthis is done to set the gearbox up correctly.

With the lay shaft in position we can Finish off thebrake now, here you can see all the parts needed for thejob, your shoes, clips and operating levers and shaft.

Fit the operating cam through the hole in the enginecasing, grease this when fitting as it is important for agood operating brake.

Next fit the brake arm, notice the position it is in, itneeds to be some where like this for the brake tooperate correclty when you connect the cables up. Thearm is held on to the shaft by a circlip.

We are now ready to fit the brake shoes, you will find itmuch easier to fit the return spring to the two brakeshoes first, expand the shoes or the operating cam, andthen place the holes of the shoes bystretchingg themapart, on to the pegs you fitted earlier.

Finally fit the retaining W clip, sometimes you will besupplied or have two circlips with plates, either way isfine, and it does not matter which method you use.

Job done, brake parts finished and fitted, if you haddirty hands while fitting brake parts, naughty you, justmake sure all braking surfaces are clean and free ofgrease.

The "Xmas" tree gearcluster, separate gears, shims andbearings are now going to be fitted to make up thegearbox

Just near the selector arm, in the casing is a housing forthe bottom Xmas tree gear cluster, in here goes theneedle roller bearing.

On the bottom of the cluster is fitted a shim, the bottomis the widest part.

First into the casing goes the cluster, making sure theshim is still in position when fitted, simply pop thecluster into the needle roller,

On the top of the mainshaft, fit the top shim, it fits as inthe picture just lay it on.

Next pop on the end plate roller bearing for themainshaft, again just pop it in position

The first gear to go in is forth, this is the smallest gearof all. If you look at the gears carefully, second thirdand forth have a boss on them, a slightly raised part onone side. This is important as they go in a certain way.Forth gear fits with its highest boss towards you.

After you are happy with forth gear being put in, makesure that forth is level with its counter part gear on thecluster. Next in is third, again check the highest boss,this time the boss faces towards the rear hub. Againcheck and make sure the gears line up. If they do not,try another sized shim at this under the cluster at thisstage

Second gear now goes in, the same way round as thirdgear, the highest boss faces in towards the rear hub.Again check the alignment as you go.

Notice first gear, you will see on the top face someteeth, these are for the kick-start to mate to whenstarting, again only fit this way round!

Fit the mainshaft shim now, if you are using a totallynew gearbox, I would suggest a few shims, 2.0 2.2 &2.4 should be fine. If you are using your originalgearbox and casing, you should be OK with your oldshim. If you are using new, fit the 2.2 first and themwhen can measure up.

Instead of the original stud and nut arrangment, it ismuch better to use high tensile steel bolts too secure theendplate. Make sur eyou get these from a Lambrettadealer as they need to be the correct length. Loctite isalso used here to secure these bolts.

Remember the picture above and the shim, we willneed it to check endplate float later on. With the newbearing fitted into the endplate, it is held in there by acirclip, fit the end plate, making sure if goes on niceand square. You will need to wiggle it to get the twoshafts and bearings, plus all the studs and dowels to lineup. Do all the nuts up at and even rate to pull the endplate down evenly, continue until tight.

Fit the outer part of the clutch housing, the spider onlyat this stage, we need to check every thing is tight andsecure for measuring the endplate float. Fit the clutchholding tool to secure the mainshaft so it will not turnand into this just place the clutch spider on its splines,

Again when we fitted the brakes, make sure that eitheryou have a spacer or the rear hub fitted and torque to120lbs so we can start measuring.

Now we are ready to measure end plate float. This isdone by measuring the gap between the shim on firstgear to the inner face of the end plate. The gap we arelooking for is between 0.07mm to 0.30mm, the use ofthicker or thinner shims adjusts this gap.

Now when you are happy with gearbox operation youcan continue to fit the rest of the end plate nuts or bolts.Secure evenly and nice and tight.

Fit the mainshaft shim washer, the Home WorkshopManual mentions that these shims align the chain, truethey do, but unless you have the correct workshop toolfor doing this dont worry as if you try to alter themeasurments and you get it wrong, you will do moredamage then good.

Parts needed to fit the chain, rear sprocket, chian andguides, clutch housing bush or bearing, and the clutchnut and tab washer

The chain guides, there are now many types of new topchain adjusters available, certainly on any tunedLambretta, but even for the cost of them they are agood idea to use instead of the factory "normal" type. a)they last longer & b) these types are much less prone tobreakages, hence aiding reliabilty.

Slip the chain around the rear sprocket, your front onewill already have been fitted

Roughly position the bottom chain guide in place (andthe top one if you are using the original stlye), lay thechain around the front sprocket with one hand whileholding the rear sprocket with the chain around it in theother.

On some types of chain tensioner a stud is used to fixthe guides, secure the bottom one first which does notmover, then the top over that.

The top tensioner, is used to take up the slack in thechain, ideally your chain will not require too muchadjustment, but to get the correct adjustment, pushupwards on the adjuster to tension the chain. Nip thebolts up, then between the front sprocket and thetensioner, wiggle the chain up and down, you shouldhave 1/2" play at most. Tighten fully the tensionerwhen you are happy with this.

If you have a look at this rear sprocket you will see it issolid. There are some that have a rivet section in them,these are two piece rear sprockets. Again for tuned andideally all scooters, a solide non riveted type should beused. The rivets are not uncommon in breaking orallowing the two sections to come apart. Fit your centerbush or bearings now, either two needle roller bearingsor one brass bush, some prefer the brass type of bush.

Bath your clutch corks in the ST90 gearbox oil you willuse, if you fit them dry without soaking them first, yourun the risk of burning the plates out from the word go!

Fit the clutch spider into the rear sprocket, in just goesin on the bearings/bush. Notice the legs of the spider,the top edge is like a castle effect, then after this theshafts of the spider should be smooth, if yours has rutsor lumps it is worn, either file flat again or replace.

A tab waser locates on any one of the pins with it'seylet, the clutch nut can then be tightened down byhand.

Fit the clutch holding tool, do not try to usescrewdrivers or anything else to trap or jam this,damage will occur, these tools are very cheap and veryneccesary.

Using the best socket and ratchet you have, simply getthis nut as tight as you can, there is no torque settingother than really tight! Use a screwdriver and hammerto knock over one edge of the tab washer onto the nut,this is done to stop the nut comming un done.

The clutch springs, and here we are using a centrespring as well due to the tuned engine. When checkingyour clutch springs, you should stand all five up, theyneed to be all the same height.

To stop the springs from falling, especially if the engineis still in the scooter, simply dab one end of the springin grease before fitting.

By dabing the grease on one end of the spring, this cannow be placed in its recess in the ctutch spider, it willhelp to keep the spring in position

Carry on until all five are in place

Fit the clutch basket, again it has recess in it for thesprings to sit in, plus the legs of the basket will need toalign with the legs of the clutch spider. Onto this goes aclutch cork

After the first cork, put a steel plate on this, then corketc

Carry on until the last part which is the steel top plate,this has a chamfered edge on it and is thiker then theother plates. GP top plates differ to all other models bybeing thicker.

Now we need to use the clutch compressor to compressthe clutch basket and springs. .

When this is done you can slide the corks and platesdown into the housing, they should slide down prettyfreely with no interferance.

Continue to compress so that the top plate is under thegrove in the leg of the clutch spider. Now you can fitthe clutch retaining circlip, where the two ends meetthey should be placed so that both ends fit inside a leg.

All that remains now is to fit the chaincase side gasket,if you have a non GP/DL machine make sure the topclutch thimble is in position.

To assmeble the kickstart mechanism, the shaft requiresa bottom plate, a spring then the kick-start piston. In theside is a hole for the locating/locking pin. When this isassmebled place the whole shaft through the chaincasing. Fit the return spring, look carefully there areholes in the casing and shaft for each end to go. For GPmachines only, fit the brass clutch operating bush in itshousing.

Fit the clutch operating arm as shown, complete withreturn spring.

On the outside of the kickstart shaft fit the kick-startshim and retaining circlip.

Using a set of mole grips securly fixed to the kickstartshaft, you can now place the chaincase side on theengine.

This is done so you can use the grips to align thekickstart into position, as it needs to be wound back fortension and to seat properly.

Rear hub, shims and locking kit.

First put the thin shim washer in posittion, the the rearhub cone. The split on the cone should fit down theraised edge of the main shaft as shown in the picture.

Finaly fit the rear hub on its splines and affix the nut. Ifyou engine is in the frame put the engine into first gearand ask a friend to push down on the rear brake pedalas hard as they can. If not do the same, but use something suitable on the rear brake arm to lock the wheel.Tighten the rear hub as hard as you possibly can. Placethe locking washer over the nut, check for alignment ofthe hole for the grub screw. You can turn the lockingplate in three differnet positions, if it still does notalign, again locking the rear wheel as mentioned,tighten until alignment takes place. Fit the allen keygrub screw and tighten.

Here we have it, one fully rebuilt engine.